


itiV 






m 



>V , 1 t , ('0' ' 












|Spf:'.:;-f .:, -:■ 
!ii;fevi.i:':^ ■■■,■ 



:ii^'T*^' 



■,^h, 














Qass 



7 



Bodc.AI/ 






^- rvxc^i--i*4^(^>vvu. 



Kay's Improved & Enlarged EdiL 



^ MACKENZIE'S 



FIVE THOUSAIVD RECEIPTS 



IN ALL THE 



Bv Transfer 

'^'^ 3 I9I7 



CONSTITUTING 



A COMPLETE PRACTICAL LIBRARY 







RELATIVE TO 






Agriculture, 


Crayons, 


Gardening, 


Oil Colours, 


Silk, 


Bees, 


Dairy, 


Gilding, 


Oils, 


Silk worms. 


Bleaching, 


Diseases, 


Glass, 


Painting, 


Silvering, 


Brewing, 


Distillation, 


Health, 


Pastry, 


Tanning, 


Calico Printing, 


Dying, 


Inks, &c. 


Perfumery, 


Trees of all kinds 


Carving at Table, 


Enamelling, 


Jewellers' Pastes, 


Pickling, 


Varnishing, 


Cements, 


Engraving, 


Lithography, 


Pottery, 


Water Colours, 


Confectionary, 


Farriery, 


Medicines, 


Preserving, 


Wines, 


Cookery, 


Food, 


Metallurgy, 


Scouring, 


&c. &C. &C. 



^ KeSo i^merican, from t^e latest aontfon 32Trition» 

VFITH NUMEROUS AND IMPORTANT ADDITIONS GENERALLY ; AND THE MEDICAL PART CAREFULLY 

REVISED AND ADAPTED TO THE CLIMATE OF THE U. STATES ; AND ALSO A NEW 

AND MOST COPIOUS INDEX. 

BY AN AMERICAN PHYSICIAN. 



PUBLISHED BT 

JAMES KAY, JUN. AND BROTHER, PHILADELPHIA. 

179 Market Street — between 4th and 5tli. 
PITTSBURGH: C. H. KAY 



, \ -O - 









Eastern Ihstnct of i ennsyivanm, to wic 

BE IT REMEMBERED, That on the twenty-fifth day of September, in the fiftv-third year of the lo 
dependence of the United States of America, A. D. 1829, Jamks Kay, Jr. & Co. of "the said District, havs 
deposited in this office the title of a book, the right whereof they claim as proprietors, in the wo;"Js following 

" Mackenzie's Five Thousand Receipts in all the useful and domestic arts : coi^tituting a complete practical 
library relative to agriculture, bees, bleaching, brewing, calico printing, carving at table, cements, confec- 
tionary, cookery, crayons, dairy, diseases, distillation, dying, enamelling, engraving, farriery, food, garden- 
ing, gliding, glass, health, inks, &c. jeweller's pastes, lithography, medicines, metallurgy, oil colours, oils, 
pamtmg, pastry, perfumery, pickling, pottery, preserving, scouring, silk, silk worms, silvering, tanning, trees 
ot all kinds, varnishing, water colours, wineg, &c. &c. &c. Fourth Aiaerican, from the latest Lordon 
edition. With numerous and important additions generally ; and the medical part carefully revised and 
adapted to the climate of the U. States ; and also a new and most copious Index. By an American Physician." 

In conformity to the Act of the Congress of the United States, entitled " An Act for the Encouragement 
of Learning, by securing the copies of maps, charts, and books, to the authors and proprietors of such 
copies, during the times therein mentioned;" and also to an Act, entitled, "An Act Supplementary to an 
Act, entitled 'An Act for the encouragement of learning, by securing the copies of maps, charts, and books, 
to the authors and pFoprietors of such copies, during the limes therein mentioned,' and extending the benefits 
thereof to the arts of designing, engraving, and etching, historical and other prints." 

D. CALDWELL, 
ClerJc of ihe Eastern District of Pennsylvania 



PREFACE 



TO THE LATEST LONDON EDITION. 



As the object of all study, and the 
end of all wisdom, is practical utility, 
so a collection of the most approved Re- 
ceipts, in all the arts of Domestic and 
Social Life, may be considered as a 
volume containing nearly the whole of 
the wisdom of man, worthy of preserva- 
tion. In truth, the present volume has 
been compiled under the feeling, that if 
all other books of Science in the world 
were destroyed, this single volume would 
be found to embody the results of the 
useful experience, observations, and 
discoveries of mankind during the past 
ages of the world. 

Theoretical reasonings and historical 
details have, of course, been avoided, 
and the object of the compiler has been 
to economise his space, and come at 
once to the point. AVhatever men do, 
or desire to do, with the materials with 
which nature has supplied them, and 
with the powers which they possess, is 
here plainly taught and succinctly pre- 
served; whether it regard complicated 
manufactures, means of curing diseases, 
simple processes of various kinds, or the 
economy, happiness, and preservation of 
life. 

The best authorities have been re- 
sorted to, and innumerable volumes con- 
sulted, and wherever different processes 
of apparently equal value, for attaining 
the same end, have been found, they 
have been introduced. 

Among the works consulted have been, 

The Monthly Magazine, 56 vols. 
The Repertory of Arts and Sciences, 60 vols. 
The London Journal of Arts and Sciences. 
The Transactions of the Society of Arts, 30 vols. 
The Magazine of Trade and Manufactures, 6 

vols. 
The Gazette of Health, 9 vols. 
The Series of the Horticultural Society, 5 vols. 



The Series of the Agricultural Society, 30 vols' 

The Farmer's Magazine, 16 vols. 

Young's Farmer's Calendar. 

Loudon on Gardening, 1 vol. 

Jennings's Domestic Cyclopaedia, 2 vols. 

TiNGREY on Varnishing. 

Richardson on the MetalUc Arts. 

Thomas's Practice of Physic. 

Cooper's Dictionary of Surgery. 

Thornton's British Herbal. 

Waller's Ditto. 

Imison's School of Arts. 

Handmaid to the Arts. 

Smith's Laboratory of the Arts. 

Hamilton on Drawing. 

The Editor's Thousand Experiments in Ma 

nufactures and Chemistry. 
Davy's Agricultural Chemistry. 
Henry's Elements of Chemistry. 
Chaptal's Chemistry applied to the Arts. 
Gregory's Cyclopaedia. 
The English and other Cyclopaedias. 

Besides innumei'able treatises. on spe- 
cial subjects, minor journals, and a great 
variety of manuscript communication? 
from friends and connexions of the edi- 
tor and publisher. 

A general, rather than a scientific, 
arrangement has been adopted, because 
the object of the work is popular and 
universal, and, though likely to be use- 
ful to men of sci€2ce, it is more espe- 
cially addressed to the public at large. 
In like manner, as far as possible, tech- 
nical and scientific language has been 
avoided, and popular names and simple 
descriptions have been preferred. 

Every care has been taken in the print- 
ing to avoid errors in quantities, as welt 
as to select the best receipts of each 
kind; but notices of errors, omissions, 
or experimental improvements, will be 
thankfully received by the publisher, for 
the use of future editions. 

The Index will render it easy to refer 
to every article of importance. 



PREFACE 



TO THE FOURTH AMERICAN EDITION. 



In fulfilling the duty of pre}3aring for 
the press a new and enlarged edition of 
the valuable work of Mackenzie, the 
Editor has steadily borne in mind its 
evident aim at general practical utility; 
and consequently he has submitted both 
alterations and additions to its rules. 
While the former will be found but 
few, — a circumstcince arising from the 
nature of the book; the latter are both 
numerous aau important, — amounting 
to about fifW pages, exclusive of those 
contained iu die Miscellaneous Depart- 
ment and ti e Appendix. 

The Me., ical part has been condensed, 
simplified, and adapted to the climate 
and diseases of the United States. A 
short, but complete manual of "Direc- 
tions for rearing the Silk Worm, and the 
Culture of the White Mulberry Tree," 
together with an extensive article on the 
Diseases of the Horse, may be noticed 
as among the important additions. The 
Culinary art has not been neglected — 
the numerous original receipts from 
the best modern authorities of the 
"Kitchen," for preparing various deli- 
cacies of the animal and vegetable king- 
dom, including Pastry, Puddings, &c. 
will no doubt prove acceptable to Ame- 
rican housekeepers. The man of family, 
the Sportsman, the Artist, the Mechanic, 
and the Farmer have all been remem- 
bered. And an unusually large and 
correct Index gives every facility of re- 
ference that could be wished. 

The attention of the Reader is called 
to the "Miscellaneous Receipts." In 
this portion, which is very copious, nu- 
merous receipts have beea, placed, which 
could not with propiiety be elsewhere 



arranged. It has also been made tbp 
receptacle of much valuable matter ob- 
tained from several kind female friends 
and the fruit of researches into many 
curious and rare booksj and which was 
prepared at too late a period for insertion 
in the appropriate departments. The 
Appendix of "Instructions in the Art 
of Carving," with its numerous wood 
cuts, will, it is hoped, prove acceptable 
and useful to our country readers, for 
whose accommodation this work was 
originally designed. 

The Editor more especially notices 
the following works, as sources from 
which he has derived considerable as- 
sistance: The Franklin Journal; Wil- 
lich's Domestic Encyclopaedia, by Pro- 
fessor Cooper; a Tract published by the 
Pennsylvania Society for the Rearing 
of Silk Worms, &c.; and the curious 
work of Colonel Hanger, of sporting 
memory. 

In conclusion, the publishers beg leave 
to state, that neither time nor expense, 
has been considered in endeavouring to 
render this edition cheaper and better 
than any other which has been published, 
and at the same time Vv^orthy of the pa- 
tronage which is solicited for it. They 
have availed themselves of the services 
of a gentleman as Editor, who has been 
for a considerable time engaged in the 
preparatory researches. The type, though 
small, is very legible and distinct; and 
in the selection of the paper, whilst re- 
gard has been had to the colour, it lias 
been deemed of main importance that it 
should be sufficiently durable to resist the 
frequent usage into which a work of this 
description must necessarily be called. 



THE 



PRACTICAL LIBRARY. 



ASSAYING OF METALLIC ORES. 

Before metallic ores are worked upon in the 
large way, it will be necessary to inquire what 
sort of iiietal, and what portion of it, is to be found 
in a determinate quantity of the ore; to discover 
whether it will be worth while to extract it largely, 
afid in what manner the process is to be conducted, 
so as to answer that purpose. The knowledge re- 
quisite for this is called the art of assaying. 
Assay of ores in the dry way. 

The assaying of ores may be performed either 
in the di-y or moist way; the first is the most an- 
cient, and, in many respects, the most advanta- 
geous, and consequently still continues to be mostly 
used. 

Assays are made either in crucibles with tlie 
blast of the bellows, or in tests under a muffle. 
Assay Tveiglits. 

The assay weights are always imaginaiy, some- 
times an ounce represents a hundred weight on the 
large scale, and is subdivided into the same num- 
ber of parts, as that hundred weight is in the great; 
so that the contents of the ore, obtained by the as- 
say, shall accurately determine by such relative 
proportion the quantity to be expected from any 
weight of the ore on a larger scale. 
Roasting the ore. 

In the lotting of the ores, care should be taken 
to have small portions from different specimens, 
wliicli should be pulverized, and well mixed in an 
iron or brass mortar. The proper quantity of the 
ore is now taken, and if it contain either sulphur 
or arsenic, it is put into a crucible or test, and ex- 
posed to a moderate degree of heat, till no vapour 
arises from it; to assist this volatilization, some 
add a small quantity of powdered charcoal. 
Fluxes. 

To assist the fusion of the ores, and to convei-t 
the extraneous matters connected Avith tliem into 
scoria, assayers use different kinds of fluxes. The 
most usual and efficacious materials for the com- 
»■ position of these are, borax, tartar, nitre, sal am- 
moniac, common salt, glass, fluor-spar, charcoal 
powder, pitch, lime, litharge, &e. in different pro- 
portions. 

As the whole process of which we are speaking 
.' t- merely an experiment, made for the purpose of 
ascertaining what is the nature of the metal con- 
tained in the ore, and the proportion the former 
bears to the latter; the little additional expense in- 
curred by employing animal instead of vegetable 
charcoal is not to be regarded, particularly, when 
the increased fusibility of the ore, occasioned there- 
by, is considered. For the mode of preparing it 
see charcoal, article dentifrice. 



Crude or -white Jiux. 

This consists of 1 part of nitre, and 2 of tartai-, 
well mixed together. 

Black Jiux. 

The above crude iiiix detonates by means of 
kindled charcoal, and if the detonation be effected 
in a mortar slightly covered, the smoke that rises 
unites with the alkalized nitre and the tartar, and 
renders it black. 

Vomish reducing Jiux. 

Mix well together 10 ounces of tartar, 3 ounces 
and 6 drachms of nitre, and 3 ounces and 1 drachm 
of borax. 

Cornish rejining Jiux. 

Deflagrate, and afterwai-ds pulverize, 2 parts of 
nitre, and 1 part of tartar. 

The above fluxes answer the pui'pose very weil, 
provided the ores be deprived of all their sulphur; 
or, if they contain much earthy matters, because, 
in the latter case, they unite with them, and con- 
vert them into a tliin glass: but if any quantity of 
sulphur remain, these fluxes unite with it, and 
form a liver of sulphur, which has the power of 
destroying a portion of all the metals; consequent- 
ly, the assay under such circumstances must be 
very inaccurate. The principal difficulty in assay- 
ing appears to be in the appropriation of the pro- 
per fluxes to each particular oi'e, and it likewise 
appears, that such a discriminating knowledge can 
only be acquired from an extensive practice, or 
from a knowledge of the chemical affinities and 
actions of dift'erent bodies upon each other. 

In assaying, we are at liberty to use the most 
expensive materials to effect our purpose, hence 
the use of different saline fluxes, but in the work- 
ing at large, such expensive means cannot be ap- 
plied; as by such processes the inferior metals 
would be too much enhanced in value, especially 
in working very poor ores. In consequence of which, 
in smelting works, where tlie object is the pi'oduc- 
tion of metals in the great way, cheaper additions 
are used; such as lime-stone, feldt-spar, fluor-spar, 
quartz, sand, slate, and slags. These are to be 
chosen according to the different views of the ope- 
rator, and the nature of the ores. Thus iron ores, 
on account of 'the argillaceous earth they contain, 
require calcareous additions, and the copper ores, 
rather slags or vitrescent stones, than calcareous 
earth. 

Humid assay of metallic ores. ' 

The mode of assaying ores for their particular 
metals by the dry way, is deficient so far as relates 
to pointing out the different substances connected 
with them, because they are always destroyed by 
the process for obtaining the assay metal. The as- 
say by the moist way is more correct, because the 



univt':rsal receipt book. 



different substances can be accurately ascertained. 
The late celebrated Sergraann first communicated 
this method. It depends upon a knowledge of the 
cliemical affinities of differentbodies for each other? 
and must bo varied according to the nature of the 
ore; it is very extensive in its application, and re- 
quires great patience and address in its execution. 
To describe the treatment of each variety of me- 
tallic ores virould take up too much of our room; 
but to give a general idea, vre shall describe the 
procedure, both in the dry and the humid way, on 
one species of all the different ores. 
To assay iron ores. 
The ore must be roasted till the vapour ceases 
to arise. Take 2 assay quintals of it, and triturate 
them with one of fluor-spar, | of a quintal of pow- 
dered charcoal, and 4 quintals of decrepitated sea 
salt; thfs mixture is to be put into a crucible, lined 
on the inside with clay and powdered cliarcoal; a 
cover must be luted upon the crucible, and the 
crucible itself exposed to a violent fire for an hour, 
and when it is cool, broken. When, if the opera- 
tion has been well conducted, the iron will be found 
at the bottom of the crucible; to which must be 
added those metallic particles, which may adhere 
to the scoria. The metallic particles so adhering 
may be separated, by pulverizing it in paper, and 
then attracting them with a magn.'-.r. 

Another mode. — ^If the ore should be in a calci- 
form state, mixed with earths, the roasting of it 
previous to assaying, if not detrimental, is at least 
superfluous; if the earths should be of the argilla- 
ceous and siliceous kind, to half a quintal of them, 
add of dry quick lime and fluor-spar of each 1 quin- 
tal and i, reduced to powder, and mix them with 
j^ of a quintal of powdered charcoal, covering the 
whole with one ounce of decrepitated common salt; 
and expose the luted crucible to a strong forge fire 
for an hour and a quarter, then let it gradually cool, 
and let the regulus be struck off" and weighed. 

Another. — If the ore contain calcareous eai'th, 
there will be no occasion to add quick lime; the 
proportion of the ingredients may be as follows: — 
viz. 1 assay quintal of the ore; 1 of decrepitated 
sea-salt; ^ of powdered charcoal; and 1 of fluor- 
'par, and the process conducted as above. 

There is a great difference in the reguli of iron; 
•vhen the cola regulus is struck with a hammer and 
breaks, the iron is called cold short: if it break on 
being struck red-hot, it is called red short: but if 
It resist the hammer, both in its cold and ignited 
state, it is good iron. 

Humid assay of iron ore. 
To assay the calciform ores, which do not con- 
tain much earthy or stony matter, they must be re- 
duced to a fine powder, and dissolved in the marine 
acid, and precipitated by the Prussian alkali. A 
determinate quantity of the Prussian alkali must 
be tried previously, to ascertain the portion of iron 
which it will precipitate, and the estimate made 
accordingly. If the iron contains any considerable 
portion of zinc or manganese, the precipitate must 
be calcined to redness, and the calx treated with 
dephlogisticated nitrous acid, which will then take 
up only the calx of zinc; when this is separated, 
the calx should again be treated either with nitrous 
acid, with the addition of sugar, or with the acetous 
acid, which will dissolve the manganese, if any; 
the remaining calx of iron may then be dissolved 
by the raai-ine acid, and precipitated by the mine- 
ral alkali; or it may be farther calcined, and then 
weighed. 

Zinc ores. 

Take the assay weight of roasted ore, and mix 

it well with l-8th part of charcoal dust, put it into 

a strong luted earthen retort, to which must be 

fi'ted a receiver; place the retort in a furnace, and 



raise the fire, and continue it in a violent heat for 
two hours, suffer it then to cool gradually, and the 
zinc will be found adhering to the neck of the re- 
tort in its metallic form. 

In the humid -way. 
Distil vitriolic acid over calamine to dryness; the 
residuum must be lixiviated in hot water; w'^at re- ■■ 
mains undissolved is siliceous earth; to the solu- 
tionadd caustic volatile alkali, which precipitates 
the vcon and argil, but keeps the zinc in solution. 
The precipitate must be redissolved in vitriolic 
acid, and the iron and argil separated. 
Tin ores. 
Mix a quintal of tin ore, previously washed, pul- 
verized, and roasted, till no arsenical vapour arises, 
with half a quintal of calcined borax, and the same 
quantity of pulverized pitch: these are to be put in 
a crucible moistened with charooal-dust and water, 
and the crucible placed in an air-furnace. After 
the pitch is burnt, give a violent heat for a ^ of an 
hour, and on withdrawing the cnicible, the regulus 
will be found at the bottom. ]f the ore be not well 
washed from earth)'- matters, a larger quantity of 
borax will be requisite, with some powdered glass; 
and if the ore contain iron, some alkaline salt may 
be added. 

In the humid way. 
Theassay of tin ores in the liquid way was looked 
upon as impracticable, till Bergmann devised the 
following ..lethod, which is generally successful. 
Let the tin ore be well separated from its stony 
matrix, by well washing, and then reduced to the 
most subtle powder; digest it in concentrated oil 
of vitriol, in a strong heat for several hours, then, 
when cooled, add a small portion of concentratei' 
marine acid, and suffer it to stand for an hour or 
two; then add water, and when the solution is clear, 
pour it off", and precipitate it by fixed alkali — 131 
grains of this precipitate, well washed and dried, 
are equivalent to 100 of tin in its reguline state, if 
the precipitate consist of pure tin; but if it contain 
copper or iron, it must be Cilcined in a red heat 
for an hour, and then digested in nitrous acid, 
which will take up the copper; and afterwards in 
marine acid, which will separate the iron. 
Lead ores. 
As most of the lead ores contain either sulphur 
or arsenic, they require to be well roasted. ' Take 
a quintal of roasted ore, with the saiue quantity of 
calcined borax, ^ a q-iiutal of fine powdered glass, 
a ^ of a quintal of pilch, and as much clean iron 
filings. Line the crucible with wetted charcoal 
dust, and put the mixture into the crucible, and 
place it before the bellows of a forge-fire. When 
it is red hot, raise the fire for 15 or 20 minutes, 
then withdraw the crucible, and break it when 
cold. 

In the humid xoay. 
Dissolve the ore by boiling it in dilute nitrous 
acid: the sulphur, iuooluble stony parts, and calx 
of iron will remain. l"he iron may be separated by 
digestion in the marine acid, and the sulphur by 
digestion in caustic fixed alkali. The nitrous solu- 
tion contains the lead and silver, which should be * 
precipitated by the mineral fixed alkali, and the 
precipitate well washed in cold water, dried, and 
weighed. Digest it in caustic volatile alkali, which 
will take up the calx of silver; the residuum, being 
again dried and weighed, gives the proportion of 
the calx of lead, 132 grains of which are equal to 
100 of lead in its metallic state. The diff'erence 
of weight of the precipitate before and after the 
application of the volatile alicali, gives the quan- 
tity of silver, 129 grains of which are equal to 100 
of silver in its metallic state. 

Copper ores. 
Take an exact troy ounce of the ore, previoiisl'* 



METALLURGY. 



jiulveiized, and calcine it well- stir it all the time 
with an iron rod, without removing; it from the 
crucible; after the calcination add an equal quan- 
tity ol' borax, half the quantity of fusible glass, one- 
fourth the quantity ot pitch, and a little charcoal 
dust; rub the inner surface of the crucible with a 
paste composed of charcoal-dnst, a little fine pow- 
dered clay, and water. Cover the mass with com- 
mon salt, and put a lid upon die crucible, which is 
to be placed in a furnace: the fire is to be raised 
gradually, tiU it burns briskly, and the ci-ucible 
continued iu it for half an hour, stirring the metal 
frequently with an iron rod, and when the scoria 
which adheres to the rod appears clear, then the 
crucible must be taken out, and suffered to cool; 
after which it must be broken, and the regulus 
separ.ited and weighed; this is called black copper, 
to refine which, equal parts of common salt and 
nitre are to be well mixed togetlier. The black 
copper is brought into fusion, and a tea-spoonful of 
the flux is thrown upon it, which is repeated three 
or foui- times, when the metal is poured iuto an 
ingot mould, and the button is found to be fine 
copper. 

In the humid -way. 

Make a solution of vitreous copper ore, in 5 
times its weight of concentrated vitriolic acid, and 
boil it to dryness ; add as much water as will dis- 
solve the vitriol tlius formed; to this solution add 
a clean bar of iron, which will precipitate the whole 
of die copper in its metallic form. If the solution 
be contaminated widi iron, the copper must be re- 
dissolved in the same manner, and precipitated 
again. The sulphur maybe separated by filtraUon. 

Copper, precipitated from its solutions by any 
agent whatever, is always in the state of a fine 
loose powder. A solid malleii.hle mass of it how- 
ever may be oLtained iu the humid way, by ex- 
posing solutions of the sulphate, obtained from the 
calcination of copper with sulphur, to the air, iti 
tubs. After a certain period, buttons of the pure 
metal, eq-ial in specific gravity to fused copper, will 
be found deposited on the ^sides of the vessel. 
Sismuih ores. 

If the ore be mineralized by sulphur, or sulphur 
and iron, a previous roasting will be necessary. 
The strong ores require no roasting, but only to be 
reduced to a fine powder. Take the assay weight 
and mix it with half the quantity of calcined borax, 
and the same of pouiided glass; line the crucible 
with charcoal; melt it as quickly as possible; and 
when well done, take out the crucible, and let it 
cool gradually. The regulus will l)e found at die 
bottom. 

In the humid -way. 

Bismuth is easily soluble in nitrous acid or aqua 
regia. Its solution i-s colourless, and is precipitable 
by the addidon of pure water; 118 grains of the 
precipitate from nitrous acid, well washed and 
dried, ai-e equal to 100 of bismuth in its metallic 
form. 

Antimonial ores. 

Take a common crucible, bore a nmnber of small 
holes in tiie bottom, and place it in another cruci- 
ble a size smaller, luting them well together; then 
put the proper quantity of ore in small lumps into 
the upper crucible, and lute thereon a cover; place 
these vessels on a health, and surround them with 
stones about six inches distant from them; the in- 
termediate space must be filled with ashes, so that 
the undermost crucible may be covered widi them; 
but upon the upper, charcoal must be laid, and the 
wiiole made red hot by the assistance of hand bel- 
lows. The andmony being of easy fusion is 
separated, and nins tlu'ough Ae holes of the upper 
vessel into the inferior one, w-here it is collected. 
Humid assay of arseniated antimony. 
Dissolve ttie ore iu aqua resia. both the regulus 



and arsenic remain in the solution, the sulphur ia 
Sep .lated by filtration. If the solution be boiled 
with twice its weight of strong nitrous acid, the 
regulus of antimony will be precipitated, and the 
arsenic converted into an acid, which may be ob- 
tained by evaporation to dryness. 
Manganese ores. 

The regulus is obtained by mixing the calx or 
ore of manganese with pitch, making it into a ball, 
and putting It into a crucible, lined with powdefed 
charcoal, 1-lOth of an inch on the sides, and \ of 
an inch at bottom, then filling the empty space 
widi charcoal dust, covering the crucible with an- 
other inverted and luted on, and exposing it to the 
strongest heat of a forge for an hour or more. 
In the humid -way. 

The ores should be first well roasted to dephlo- 
gisticate the calx of manganese and iron, if any, 
and then treated with nitrous acid to dissolve the 
earths. The residuum should now be d-eated with 
nitrous acid and sugar, by which means a colour- 
less solution of manganese will be obtained, and 
likewise of the iron, if any. Precipitate with the 
Prussian alkali, and digest the precipitate in pure 
water; the prussiate of manganese will be dissolveil 
whilst the prussiate of iron will i-emain undissolved. 
Arsenical ores. 

This assay is made by sublimation in close ves- 
sels. Beat the ore into sm^all pieces, and put them 
into a matrass, which place in a sand pot, with a 
proper degree of heat: the arsenic sublimes in this 
operation, and adheres- to the upper part of the 
vessel; when it must be carefully collected with a 
view to ascertain its weight. Sometimes a single 
sublimation will not be sufficient, for the arsenic 
in many cases will melt with the ore, and prevent 
its total volatilization; in which case, it is better 
to perform the first sublimation with a moderate 
heat, and afterwards bruise the remainder again, 
and expose it to a stronger heat. 
In the humid viay. 

Digest the ore in marine acid, adding the nitrous 
by degrees to help the solution. The sulphur will 
be found on the filter; the arsenic will remain in 
die solution, and may be precipitated in its mets'.- 
lic form by zinc, adding spirit of wine to the solu- 
don. 

J^ichel ore. 

The ores must be well roasted to expel the sul- 
phur and arsenic; the greener the calx proves du- 
ring this torrefaction, the more it abounds iu the 
nickel; but the redder it is, the more iron it con- 
tains. The proper quantity of this roasted ore is 
fused in an open crucible, with twice or dirice its 
weight of black flux, and the whole covered with 
common salt. By exposing the crucible to the 
strongest heat of a forge fire, and making the fusion 
complete, a regulus will be produced. This regu- 
lus is not pure, but contains a portion of arsenic, 
cobalt, and iron. Of the first it may be deprived 
by a fresh calcinadon, with the addition ot pow- 
dered charcoal; and of the second by scorification; 
but it is M'ith difficulty that it is entirely freed from 
the iron. 

In the kuTTtid -way. 

By solution in nitrous acid, it is fi-eed from iti 
svdphur; and by adding water to the solution, bis- 
muth, if any, may be precip'.tated; as may silver., 
if contained in it, by the marine acid; and copper, 
when any, by iron. 

To separate cobalt from nickel, when the cobalt 
is in considerable quantity, drop a saturated solu- 
tion of the roasted ore iu nitrous acid into liquid 
volatile alkali; the cobaltie part is instandy redis- 
solved, and assumes a garnet colour; when filtered, 
a grey powder remains on the filter, which is the 
nickel. The cobalt may be precipitated from Ihe 
volatile alkali by any acid. 



8 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



Cobalt ores. 
Free them as much as possible from earthy mat- 
tei s by well washing, and from sulphur and arsenic 
by roasting. The ore thus prepared is to be mixed 
with three parts of black flux, and a little decrepi- 
tated sea-salt; put the mixture in a lined crucible, 
cover it, and place it in a forge fire, or in a hot 
furnace, for this ore is very difficult of fusion. 

When well fused, a metallic regulus will be 
found at the bottom, covered with a scoria of a 
deep blue colour: as almost all cobalt ores con- 
tarn bismuth, this is I'edaced by the same opera- 
tion as the regulus of cobalt; but as they are inca- 
pable of chemically uniting together, they are 
always found distinct from each other in the cruci- 
ble. The regulus of bismuth, having a greater 
specific gravity, is always at the bottom, and may 
be separated by a blow with a hammer. 
In the humid -way. 

Make a solution of the ore in nitrous acid, or 
aqua regia, and evaporate to dryness; the residuum, 
treated with the acetous acid, will yield to it the 
cobaltic part; the arsenic should be first precipi- 
tated by the addition of water. 

MJerciirial ores. 

I'he calciform oi-es of mercury are easily reduced 
without any addition. A quintal of the ore is put 
into a retort, and a receiver luted on, containing 
some water; the retort is placed in a sand bath, and 
a sufiieient degree of heat given it, to force over 
the mercmy which is condensed in the ■ft'ater of the 
receiver. 

Sulphuretted merczirial ores. 

The sulphurous ores are assayed by distillation 
in the manner above, only these ores require an 
equal weight of clean iron filings to be mixed with 
them, to disengage the sulphur, while the heat 
volatilizes the mercury, and forces it into the re- 
ceiver. These ores should likewise be tried for 
cinnabar, to know whether it will answer the pur- 
pose of extracting it from them; for this a deter- 
minate quantity of the ore is finely powdered and 
put into a glass vessel, which is exposed to a gen- 
tle heat at first, and gradually increased till nothing 
more is sublimed. By the quantity thus acquired, 
a judgment may be formed whether the process 
will answer. Sometimes this cinnabar is not of so 
lively a colour as that which is used in trade; in 
this case it maybe refined by a second sublimation, 
and if it be still of too dark a colour, it may be 
brightened by the a»ldition of a quantity of mercury, 
and subliming it again. 

Humid assay of cinnabar. 

The stony matrix should be dissolved in nitrous 
acid, and the cinnabar being disengaged, should be 
boiled in 8 or 10 times its weight of aqua regia, 
composed of3 parts of nitrous, and 1 of marine acid. 
Tlie mercury may be precipitated in its running 
form by ziuc. 

Silver ores. 

Take the assay quantity of the ore finely pow- 
dered, and roast it well in a proper degree of heat, 
frequently stirring it with an iron rod; then add to 
it about double tlie quantity of granulated lead, put 
it in a covered crucible, and place it in a furnace; 
raise the fire gently at first, and continue to in- 
crease it gi-adually, till the metal begins to work; 
if it should appear too thick, make it thinner by 
tlie addition of a little more lead; if the metal 
should boil too rapidly, the fire should be diminish- 
ed. The surface will be covered by degrees with 
a mass of scoria, at which time the metal shotild be 
carefully stirred with an iron hook heated, espe- 
cially towards the border, lest any of the ore should 
remain undissolved; and if wliat is adherent to the 
hook when jaised from the crucible melts quic!dy 
Vgsiin, and the extremity of the hook, after it is 



grown cold is covered with a thin, shining, smooth 
crust, the scorification is perfect; but, on the con- 
trary, if while stirring it, any considerable clammi- 
ness is perceived in the scoria, and when it adheres 
to tlie hook, though red hot, and appears unequally 
tinged, and seems dusty or rough, with grains in- 
terspersed here and there, the scorification is in- 
complete; in consequence of which the fire should 
be increased a little, and what adheres to the hook 
should be gently beaten off, and returned with a 
small ladle into the crucible again. When the 
scorification is perfect, the metal should be poured 
into a cone, previously rubbed with a little tallow, 
and when it becomes cold, the scoria may be sepa- 
rated by a few strokes of a hammer. The button 
is the produce of the assay. 

£y cupellation. 

Take the assay quantity of ore, roast and grind 
it. with an equal portion of litharge, divide it into 
2 or 3 parts, and wrap each up in a small piece of 
paper; put a cupel previous!)' seasoned imder a 
mufile, with about six times the quantity of lead 
upon it. When the lead begins to work, carefully- 
put one of the papers upon it, and after this is ab- 
sorbed, put on a second, and so on till the whole 
quantity is inti-ooaced; then raise the fire, and as 
the scoria is formed, it will be taken up by ths 
cupel, and at last the silver will remain alone. 
This will be the produce of the assay, unless the 
lead contains a small portion of silver, which may 
be discovered by putting an equal quantity of the 
same lead on another cupel, and working it off" at 
the same time; if any silver be produced it must 
be deducted from the assay. This is called the 
witness. 

In the humid -way. 

Boil vitreous silver ore in dilute nitrous acid, 
using about 25 times its weight, until the sulphur 
is quite exhausted. The silver may be precipitat- 
ed from the solution by marine acid, or comm-oa 
salt; 100 grains of this precipitate contain 75 of 
I'eal silver; if it contain any gold it will remain un- 
dissolved. Fixed alkalies precipitate the earthy 
matters, and the Prussian alkali will show if any 
other metal be contained in the solution. 
7'o assay the 'value of silver. 

The general method of examining the purity of 
silver is by mixing it with a quantity of lead pro- 
portionate to the supposed portion of alloy; by test- 
ing this mixture, and afterwards weighing the 
remaining button of silver. This is the same 
process as refining silver by cupellation. 

It is supposed that the mass of silver to be exa- 
mined, consists of 12 equal parts, called peuny- 
weights; so that if an ingot weighs an ounce, each 
of the parts will be l-12th of an ounce. Hence, if 
the mass of silver be pure, it is called silver of 12 
penny-weights; if it contain l-12th of its weight of 
alloy, it is called silver of 11 penny-weights; il'2- 
12ths of its weight be alloy, it is called silver of 
10 penny-weights; which parts of pure silver are 
called 5 penny- weights. It must be observed here, 
that assayers give the name penny-weight to a 
weight equal to 24 real grains, which must not be 
conloundcd with their ideal weights. The assayei-s' 
grains are called fine grains. An ingot of fine sil- 
ver, or silver of 12 penny-weights, contains, then, 
288 fine grains; if this ingot contain l-288th of al- 
loy, it is said to be silver of 11 penny- weights and 
23 grains; if it contain 4-288th3 of alloy, it is said 
to be 11 penny-weights, 20 grains, &c. Now a 
certain real weight must be taken to represent the 
assay-weights: tor instance, 36 real grains repre- 
sent 12 fine penny-weights; this is subdivided into 
a sufficient number of otlier smaller weights, which 
also represent fractions of fine penny-weights and 
grains. Tims, 18 real grains represent C tine pea- 



METALLURGY. 



ny-weights; 3 real grains represent 1 fine penny- 
•weight, or 2-i grains; a real grain and a half repre- 
<■ int 12 fine grains; l-32d of a real grain represents 
I quarter of a fine grain, which is only l-752d part 
)f a mass of 12 penny-weights. 

Double assay of silver. 

It is customaiy to make a double assay. The 

lilver for the assay should be taken from opposite 

.ides of the ingot, and tried on a touch stone. As- 

.ayers know pretty nearly the value of silver merely 

oy the look of the ingot, and still better by the test 

of the touch stone. The quantity of lead to be 

added is regulated by the portion of alloy, which 

being in general copper, will be nearly as follows: 

Of silver 

dwt. gr. dwt.gr. 

"11 6 to 





Requires from 
5 to 6~ 
8 to 9 

12 to 13 

13 to 14 >| ° 

14 to 15 
Oto 16 
to 20 , 



12 to 

19 18 to 9 

8 6 to 7 12 

6 18 to 6 

3 to 1 12 

^ 1 12 to 38 

The cupel must be heated red hot for half an 
hour before any metal is put upon it, by which all 
moisture is expelled. When the cupel is almost 
white by heat, the lead is put into it, and the fire 
increased till the lead becomes red hot, smoking, 
and agitated by a motion of all its parts, called its 
cii-culation. Then the silver is to be put on the 
cupel, and the fire continued till the silver has en- 
tered the lead; and when the mass circulates well, 
the heat must oe diminished by closing more or 
less the door of the assay furnace. Tlie heat should 
be so regulated, that the metal on its surface may 
appear convex and ardent, while the cupel is less 
red; that the smoke shall rise to the roof of the 
nmffle; that undulations shall be made in all direc- 
tions; and that the middle of tlie metal shall appear 
smooth, with a small circle of litharge, which is 
continually imbibed by the cupel. By this treat- 
ment tl)e lead and alloy will be entirely aosorbed 
by the cupel, and the silver become bright and 
shining, when it is said to lighten; after which, if 
the operation has been well performed, the silver 
will be covered with rainbow colours, which quick- 
ly undulate and cross each other, and then the but- 
ton becomes fixed and solid. 

The diminution of weight shows the quantity of 
alloy. As all lead contains a small portion oi sil- 
ver, an equal weight with that used in the assay is 
tested off, and the product deducted from the assay- 
weight. This portion is called the witness. — lii- 
chardsori's Metallic Arts. 

Ores and earths containing gold. 

That which is now most generally used is by 
amalgamation, the proper quantity is taken and 
reduced to a powder; aboat one-tenth of its weight 
of pure quicksilver is added, and the whole tritu- 
rated in an iron mortar. The attraction subsisting 
between the gold and quicksilver, quickly unites 
them in the form of an amalgam, which is pressfed 
tlwough shamoy leather; the gold is easily sepa- 
rated from this amalgam, by exposure to a proper 
degree of heat, which evaporates the quicksilver, 
and leaves the gold. This evaporation should be 
made with luted vessels. 

This is the foundation of all the operations by 
which gold is obtained from the rich mines of P«ru, 
in Spanish America. 

Another method. — Take a quantity of the gold 
sand and heat it red hot, quench it in water; repeat 
this two or three times, and the colour of the sand 
will become a i-eddish brown. Then mix it with 
twice its weight of litharge, and revive the litharge 
into lead, by adding a small portion of charcoal- 
dust, arid exposing it to a proper degree of heat; 



when the lead revives, it separates the gold from 
the sand; and the freeing of the gold from the lead 
must be afterwards performed by cupellsftion. 

Another. — Bergmann assayed metallic ores con- 
taining gold, by mixing two parts of the ore well 
pounded and washed, with 1 and a ^ of litharge, 
and 3 of glass; covering the whole with common 
salt, and melting it in a smith's forge, in a covered 
crucible; he then opened the crucible, put a nail 
into it, and continued to do so till the iron was no 
longer attacked. The lead was thus precipitated 
which contained the gold, and was afterwards sepa- 
rated by cupellatiun. 
Humid assay of gold mixed -with martial pyrites. 
Dissolve the oi-e in 12 times its weight of dilute 
nitrous acid, gradually added; place it in a proper 
degree of heat; this takes up the soluble parts, and 
leaves the gold untouched, with the insoluble ma- 
trix, from which it may be separated by aqua regia. 
The gold may be again separated from the aqua 
regia by pouring ether upon it; the ether takes up 
the gold, and by being burnt off leaves it in its me- 
tallic state. The solution may contain iron, cop- 
per, manganese, calcareous earth, or argil; if it be 
evaporated to diyness, and the residuum heated to 
redness for half an hour, volatile alkali will extract 
the copper; dephlogisticated niti'ousacid theeai'ths; 
the acetous acid die manganese; and die marine 
acid the calx of iron. The sulphur floats on the 
first solution, from which it should be separated by 
filtration. 



ALLOYS OR COMPOUND METALS. 

Metals, in general, will unite with each other by 
fusion or amalgamation, and acquire new proper- 
ties. Brass is a compound of copper and zinc; and 
possesses a different colour to eidier of tlie com- 
ponent parts. 

The attraction of cohesion of the different me- 
tals which are to form the compound must be over- 
come; accordingly, they become intimately mixed 
together. The compound is not formed by a clie- 
mical union of the particles of the different metals, 
but from an equable diffusion throughout each 
other, in mass. As metals fuse in diffei-eut de- 
grees of heat, care should be tiken not to add those 
metals which fuse easily, to others which requii-e 
a greater degree of heat, while they are too hot; 
because the former may evaporate and leave the 
compound imperfect. Or, if they are brought into 
fusion together, it should be under a flux to prevent 
j the volatile metals from evaporating, before the 
union is effected. 

Or mohir—JMosaic gold. 

Melt togetlier equal parts of copper and zine, 
at the loTvest temperature that will fuse the formers 
stir them well to produce an intimate mixture of 
the metals, and add by degrees small quantities of 
zinc; the aUoy first assumes a yellow coloui- like; 
brass, on adding a little more zinc it becomes pur- 
ple, and lastly perfectly white, which is the propei 
appearance of the desired prodact, when fused. 
The quantity of zinc to be used altogether, should 
be from fifty-two to fifty-five parts out of a hun- 
dred. 

Queen's metal. 

Melt together 4^ lb. of tin, i^ lb. of bismuth, ^ 
lb. of antimony, and ^ lb. of lead. A very excel- 
lent alloy will be foi'med by using these propor- 
tions; it is used for making tea-pots and other ves- 
sels which are required to imitate silver. Tliey 
retain their brdliancy to the last. 

Another. — A very fine silver-looking metal is 
composed of 100 pounds of tin, 8 of regulus of an- 
timony, 1 of bismuth, and 4 of copper. 



10 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



Tombac. 
Melt together 16 pounds of copper, 1 pound (^ 
4tn, aud 1 poui»d of zinc. 

Red tombac. 
Put into a crucible 5^ pounds of copper: when 
fused, add \ pound of zinc: these metals will com- 
bine, forming an alloy of a reddish colour, but pos- 
sessing more lustre than copper, aud also greater 
durability. 

Wldte tombac. 
When copper is combined with arsenic, by melt- 
ing them together in a close crucible, and covering 
the surface with muriate of soda, to prevent oxi- 
dation, a white brittle alloy is formed. 
Common pevjter. 
Melt in a crucible 7 pounds of tin, and when 
fused throw in 1 pound of lead, 6 ounces of cop- 
per, and 2 ounces of zinc. This combination of 
metals will form an alloy of great diu'ability and 
tenacity; also of considerable lustre. 
Best pewter. 
The best sort of pewter consists of 100 parts of 
tin, aud 17 of regains of antimony. 
Hard pe-Mer. 
Melt together 12 pounds of tin, Ip' ,md of regu- 
£«s of antimony, and 4 ounces of copper. 
Flute-key valves. 
Fuse in a crucible 4 ounces of lead and 2 ounces 
of antimony, and cast into a bar. This alloy is of 
considerable hardness and lustre, aud is used by 
flute manufacturers, (when turned into small but- 
tons in a lathe,) for making valves to stop the key- 
noles of llutes. 

Common solder. 
Put into a crucible 2 pounds of lead, and when 
melted, throw in 1 pound of tin. This alloy is thst 
generally known by the name of solder. When 
wealed by a hot iron, and applied to tinned iron 
^ith powdered rosin, it acts as a cement or solder; 
i. is also used to join leaden pipes, &c. 
Hard solder. 
Melt together 2, pounds of copper, and I pound 
of tin. 

Soft solder. 
Melt together 2 pounds of tin, and 1 of lead. 

Printers' types. 
Put into a crucible 10 pounds of lead, and when 
it is in a state of fu#on, throw in 2 pounds of anti- 
mony; tliese metals, in such proportions, form the 
alioj" of which common printing types are made. 
The antimony gives a liardness to the lead, with- 
out which the type would sjieedily be rendered 
useless in a printing press. Different proportions 
of lead, copper, brass, and antimony, frequently 
constitute tliis metal. Every anisi has his own 
proportions, so that the same composition cannot 
be obtained from different foundries; each boasts 
of the superiority of his own mixture. 

Small types and stereotype plates. 
Melt 9 pounds of lead, and thro.v into the cru- 
cible 2 [)ound« of antimony and 1 pound of bis- 
muth: these metals will combine, forming an alloy 
of a peculiar quality. This quality is expansion 
as it cools, it is therefore well suited for the forma- 
tion of small printing types (particular!}' when 
many are casttogelher to form stereotype plates,) 
as the whole of tiie mould is accurately filled with 
the alloy; consequently there can be no blemish in 
the letters. If a metal or alloy liable, to contract in 
cooling were to be used, the effect of course would 
bt very different. 

Anotlier. — The proprietors of^difFerent foundries 

adopt different compositions for stereotype plates. 

Some Crni an alloy of 8 parts of lead, 2 parts of 

utimony, and l-8lh part of tin. 

Jilode of casting. 

For die m.iniifactLue of stereotype plates, plaster 



of Paris, of the consistence of a batter-pudding be*- 
fore baking, is poured over the letter-press page 
and worked into the interstices of the types with a 
brush. It is then collected from the sides by a 
slip of iron or wood, so as to lie smooth and com- 
pact. In about two minutes, the whole mass i» 
hardened into a solid cake. This cake, which is 
to serve as the matrix of the stereotj-pe plate, is 
now put upon a rack in an oven, where it under- 
goes great heat, so as to drive off superfluous mois- 
ture. When ready for use, these moulds, accord- 
ingto their size, are placed in flat cast-iron pots, and 
are covered over by another piece of cast-iron per- 
forated at each end, to admit the metallic compo- 
sition intended for the preparation of the stereot) ])e 
plates. The flat cast-iron pots are now fastened 
in a crane, which carries them steadily to the me- 
tallic-bath, or melting pot, where they are immers- 
ed and kept for a considerable time, until all the 
pores and crevices of the mould are completely 
and accurately filled. When this has taken place, 
the pots are elevated from the bath by working 
the crane, and are placed over a water trough, to 
cool gradually. When cold, the Avhole is turned 
out of the pots, and the plaster being separated, by 
hammering and washing, the plates are ready for 
use; having received the most exact and perfect 
impression. 

JMetallic casts from engravings on copper . 
A mostimportant discovery has lately been made, 
which promises to be of considerable utility in the 
fine arts: some very beautiful specimens of metal- 
lic plates, of a peculiar composition, have lately 
appeared under the name of " cast engravings." 
This invention consists in taking moulds from 
every kind of engraving, wlietherline, mezzotinto, 
or aquatinta, and in pouring on this mould an allov 
in a slate of fusion, capable of taking the finest im- 
pression. The obvious utility of this invention, as 
applicable to engravings which meet with a readv 
sale, and of which greiit numbers are required", 
will be incalculable; as it will wholly prevent tlie 
expense of retouching, which forms so prominent 
a charge in all works of an extended sale. No 
sooner is one cast worn out, than anoHier may im- 
mediately be procured from the original plate, so 
that every impression will be a proof. Thus the 
works of our most celebrated artists may be hand- 
ed down, ad infinitum, for the improvement and 
delight of future ages, and will afibrd at the same 
time' the greatest satisfaction to every lover of tha 
fine arts. 

Wkite metal. 
Melt together 10 ounces of lead, 6 ounces of bis- 
muth, and 4 drachms of regulus of antimony. 

Another. — Melt together 2 pounds of regulus of 
antimony, 8 ounces of brass, and 10 ounces of tin. 
Common hardiuhite metal. 
Melt together I pound of brass, 1^ ounce of spel- 
ter, and ^ an ounce of tin. 

Tutenag. 
Melt together 2 parts of tin, and 1 of bismuth. 

Fusible alloy. 
Put into a crucible 4 ounces of bismuth, and 
when in a state of fusion, throw in 2^ ounces of 
lead, and, 1^ ounce of tin; these metal~ will com- 
bine, forming an alloy fusible at the temperature 
of boiling water; the 'iiscnvery of which is ascribed 
to Sir Isaac Newton. Mould this alloy in bars, 
and take them to a silversmith's to be made into 
half a dozen tea-spoons. If one of these be given 
to a stranger to stir his tea, as soon as it is poured 
from t.ie tea-pot, he will be not a little surprised 
to find the spoon melt in tlie tea-cup. 

The fusibility of this alloy is certainly surprising, 
fer the fusing temperature of each of its compo- 
nents, singly is higher than twice that of boiling 



METALLURGY. 



11 



water. Bismuth fuses at 476°, lead at 612% and tin 
at 442°; whilst water boils at 212°. 

Another. — Melt together 1 ounce of zinc, 1 ounce 
of bismuth, and 1 ounce of lead; this alloy will be 
found to be remarkably fusible (although each of 
the metals, separately, requires considerable heat 
to melt it,) and will melt even in hot water: It will 
likewise remain in a fused state on a sheet of paper, 
over the flame of a lamp or candle. 

Metallograpkical application of fusible alloys. 

Paste a piece of white paper at the bottom of a 
china saucer, and lot it dry: then write on it with 
common writing ink, and sprinkle some finely- 
powdered gum arable over the writing, which Avill 
produce a slight relief. When well dried, brush 
off the powder that does not adliere, and pour fusi- 
ble metal into tlie saucer, taking care to cool it 
rapidly, that crystallization may not take place. 
In this way a counterpartof the writing will be ob- 
tained, impressed on the metal. By immersing 
the c»*t in slightly warm water, any adhering gum 
may oe removed, and then, if examined by a glass, 
the writing may easily be read and seen to be per- 
fect. Afterwards, by using common printer's ink, 
impressions may be taken from it, all of which will 
Le true facsimiles of the first -writing. 

The difficulties in this new application of the fu- 
pible alloy are, to avoid unequal thickness in the 
plate of metal, which causes it to alter in form, 
and break under pressure; and to prevent tlie sur- 
face from crystallizing, when the ink will adhere 
where it is not required. 

Casts f'om fusible metal. 

A combination of three parts of lead, witli 2 of 
tm and 5 of bismuth, forms an alloy wliich melts at 
the temperature of 197° F. 

In making casts with this and similar alloys, it 
is important to use die metal at a temperature as 
low as possible; as, if but a few degrees elevated, 
the water which adheres to the things from which 
casts are to be taken, forms vapour, .and produces 
bubbles. The fused metalmust be allowed to cool 
in a tea-cup until just ready to set at the edges, 
and then pour it into the moulds, procuring in this 
way beautiful casts from moulds of wood, or of 
other similar substances. When taking impres- 
sions from gems, seals, Sec. the fused alloy should 
be placed on paper or paste-board, and stii-red 
about till it becomes pasty, from cooling, at which 
moment the gem, die, or seal, should be suddenly 
stamped on it, and a ver}' sharp impression will 
Jien be obtained. Journal of Science, No. 26. 
Metallic injection. 

Melt together equal parts of bismuth, lead, and 
iin, Avith a sufiicient quantity of quicksilver. 

This composition, with tlie addition of a small 
proportion of mercurj', is used for injecting the 
vessels of many anatomical preparations; also for 
taking correct casts of various ca\it)es of the body, 
as those of the ear. The animal structure may be 
corroded and separated by means of a solution of 
potass in water; and the metallic cast will be pre- 
served in an isolated state. 

For cushions of electrical machinery. 

Melt together in a crucible 2 drachms of zinc 
and 1 of tin; when fused, pcur them into a cold 
crucible, containing 5 drachms of mercury. Tlie 
mercuiy will combine with those metals, and form 
an alloy, (or amalgam, as it is called,) fit to be 
rubbed on the cushions which press the plate, or 
cylinder of an electrical machine. Before the 
amalgam is applied, it is proper to rub the cushion 
with a mixture of tallow and bees-wax. 
For varnishing figures. 

Fuse ^ an ounce of tin, with the same quantity 
of bis.Tttuth in a crucible: when melted, add h an 
oimce of mercury. When perfectly combined, 



take the mixture from the fire, and cool it. This 
substance mixed with the white of an egg, forms a 
very beautiful varnish, for plaster figures, &c. 
To plate looking-glasses. 

This art is erroneously termed silvering, for, as 
will be presently seen, there is not a paiticle of 
silver present in the whole composition. 

On tin-foil, fitly disposed on a flat table, mercu- 
ry is to be poured, and gently rubbed with ahare's 
foot: it soon unites itself with the tin, which then 
becomes very splendid, or, as the workmen say, is 
qvickened. A plate of glass is then cautiously to 
be slid upon the tin-leaf, in such a manner as to 
sweep off the redundant mercury, which is not in- 
corporated with the tin; leaden weights are then 
to be placed on the glass, and in a little time the 
quicksilvered tin-foil adheres so firmly to the glass, 
that the weights may be removed -without any 
danger of its falling off. The glass thus coated is 
a common looking-glass. About 2 ounces of mer- 
cury are sufficient for covering three square feet of 
glass. 

The success of this operation depends much on 
the clearness of the glass; and the least dirt or dust 
on its surface will prevent the adhesion of the 
amalgam or alloy. 

Liquid foil for silvering glass globes. 

Melt together 1 ounce of clean lead, and 1 ounce 
of fine tin, in a clean iron ladle; then immediately 
add 1 ounce of bismutli. Skim off* the dross, re- 
move the ladle from the fire, and before it sets, 
add 10 ounces of quicksilver. Now stir the whole 
carefully together, taking care not to breathe ovei 
it, as the fumes of tlie mercury are very pernicious 
Pour this through an earthen pipe into the glass 
globe, which turn repeatedly round. 

Another. — To 4 ounces of quicksilver, add as 
much tin-foil as will become barely fluid when 
mix^d. Let the globe be clean and warm, and in- 
ject the quicksilver by means of a pipe at the 
aperture, tiu'uing it about till it is silvered all 
over. Let the remainder run out, and hang the 
globe up. 

Another. — For this pui-pose, 1 part of mercury 
and 4 of tin have bten used; but if 2 parts of mer- 
cury, 1 ofgin, 1 of lead, and 1 of bismuth, are melt- 
ed togetha", the compound which they form will 
answer the purpose better: either of them must be 
made in an iron ladle, over a clear fire, and must 
bt frequently stirred. 

Bath metal. 

Melt togetlier. 1 pound of brass, and 4^ ounces 
of spelter. 

Brass. 

Put 4^ lbs. of copper into a crucible, expose U 
to heat in a furnace, and when perfectly fused, add 
1^ lb. of zinc. The metals will combine, forming 
that generally used alloy, called brass. 

Another. — For brass which is to be cast into 
plates, from which pans and kettles are to be made, 
and wire is to be drawn, braziers use calamine of 
the finest sort, instead of pure zinc, and in a great- 
er proportion than when common brass is made; 
generally 56 lb. of calamine to 34 lb. of copper. 
Old brass, which has been frequently exposed to 
the action of fire, when mixed with the copper and 
calamine, renders the brass far more ductile, and 
fitter for the making of fine -wire, than it would be 
without it; but the German brass, particrilarly that 
of Nuremberg, is, when dra-wn into wire, said to 
be preferable to any made in England, for the 
strings of musical instruments. 
Pinchbeck. 

Put into a crucible 5 ounces of pure coppej-; 
when it is in a state of fusion, add 1 ounce of zinc. 
These metals combine, forming an alloy not un- 
like jeweller's gold: pour it into a mould of any 



12 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK, 



shape. This alloy is used for inferior jewel- 
lery. 

Some use only half this quantity of zinc, in which 
proportion the alloy is more easily worked espe- 
cially in the making of jewellery. 

Another. — Melt together 1 ounce of brass with 
1^ or 2 ounces of copper, fused under a coat of 
charcoal dust. 

Princess metal. 
Melt together 3 ounces of copper, and 1 ounce 
of zinc: or 8 ounces of brass, and 1 ounce of zinc. 
Another. — Melt in a crucible 4 ounces of cop- 
per, and when fused, add 2 ounces of zinc; they 
will combine and form a very beautiful and useful 
alloy, called Prince Rupert's metal. 
Bronze. 
Melt in a clean crucible 7 lbs. of pure copper: 
■when fused, throw into it 3 lbs. of zinc, and 2 lbs. 
of tin. These metals will combine, forming bronze, 
' which, from the exactness of the impression which 
it takes from a mould, has, in ancient and modern 
times, been generally used in the formation of 
busts, medals, and statues. 

Specula of telescopes. 
Melt 7 lbs. of copper, and when fused, add 3 lbs. 
of zinc, and 4 lbs. of tin. These metals will com- 
bine to form a beautiful alloy of great lustre, and 
of a light yellow colour, fitted to be made into 
specula for telescopes. Mr Mudge used only cop- 
per and grain tin, in the proportion of 2 lbs. to 14^ 
ounces. 

Gun metal. 
Melt together 112 lbs. of Bristol brass, 14 lbs. 
of spelter, and 7 lbs. of block tin. 

Another. — Melt together 9 parts of copper- and 
1 part of tin: the above compounds are those used 
in the manufactui'e of small and great brass guns, 
swivels, &c. 

The pieces of oi'dnance used by the besiegers at 
the battle of Praj^ue, were actually melted by the 
frequency of the tiring; the raixtui-e of which tliey 
were made contained a large portion of lead; it 
would have been less prone to melt, and conse- 
quently preferable, had it contained none. A mix- 
ture of copper and tin is preferred to pure copper, 
not o:iIy tor tlie casting of cannon, buLof statues, 
&:c.; for pure copper, in running tm-ougli the 
various parts of the mould, would lose so much of 
its heat as to set, or become solid too soon. 
Hell metal. 
Melt together 6 parts of copper, and 2 of tin: 
These proportions are the most approved for bells 
throuu;liout Europe, and in China. 

In tlie union of the two metals above mentioned, 
tlie combination is so complete, that tlie specific 
gravity of the alloy is greater than that of the two 
meials unconibined. 

Another. — Some bells are made in the propor- 
tion of 10 parts of copper to 2 of tin. It may be in 
general observed, that a less proportion of tin is 
used for making ciiurch beljs, than clock bells; and 
that a little zinc is added for the bells of repeating 
watches and other small bells. 

Blanched copper. 
Melt together 8 ounces of copper, and ^ an ounce 
of neutral arsenical salt, fused together, under a flux 
composed of calcined borax, charcoid dust, and 
fine powder glass. 

Composition of ancient statues. 
According to Pliny, the metal used by the Ro- 
mans for thoir statues, and for the plates on which 
they engraved inscriptions, was composed in the 
following manner. They first melted a quantity 
of copper, into wliich they put a third of its weight 
of old copper, which had Lieenlongtin use; to every 
lOU lbs. weight of tliis mixture they added 12^ lbs. 
of an a'llay composed ot eiiuul ;>arts of leadaud tin. 



Mock plating. 
Melt together 8 ounces of brass and 5 ounces of 
spelter. 

Fine casting of brass, &c. 
The principal object m fine casting is to have a 
mould that shall receive a beautiful impression, 
and at the same time sufficiently adliesive to resist 
the force of the fluid metal, that shall neither wash, 
nor be injured by the heat. The sand that covers 
or surrounds the model should be fine close sand; 
after removing the mould, the model must be faced 
with burnt rotten stone, and covered with loam, 
each dusted through a bag, and the mould laid 
down upon it— this facing may be repeated, the 
mould must be dried and smoked with a torch, in 
lieu of water, the sand is moistened with a solu- 
tion of tartar, or the lees of wine, or with cream of 
tartar. Care must be taken to loosen the bands 
quickly: viz. loosen the first mould, while the se- 
cond is pouring, &c. On removing the work, every 
particle of the facing should be carefully scraped 
frpm the mould and tlu-own away. Part the moulds 
with coal and black rosin. 

Gilding metal. 
Melt together 4 parts of copper, 1 of Bristol old 
brass, and 14 oz. of tin, to every pound of copper. 
For common jewellery. 
Melt together 3 parts of copper, 1 of Bristol 
old brass, and 4 oz. of tin, to every pound of copper. 
If this alloy is for fine polishing, the tin may be 
omitted, and a mixture of lead and antimony sub- 
stituted. Paler polishing metal is made by reduc- 
ing the copper to two or to one part. 
Yclloxu dipping- metal. 
Melt together 2 parts of Cheadle brass, 1 part ct 
copper, v.'ith a little Bristol old brass, aud^ oz. of 
tin to ever}' pound of copper. 

This alloy is almost of the colour, &e. of i^old 
coin. Cheadle brass is the darkest, and gives'" the 
metal a greenish hue. Old Bristol brass is pale 
and yellow. 

Another. — Good dipping metal may be made ot 
1 pound of copper to 5 oz. of spelter; the copper 
should be tough cake, and not tile. 

When antimony is used instead of tin, it should 
be in smaller quantity, or the metal will be brittle. 

Imitation of silver. 
_ When copper is melted with tin, about ^ oz. of 
tin to a pound of copper, will make a pale bell- 
metal, they will roll and ring very near to sterling 
silver. 

Tuiania or Britanma metal. 
Melt together 4 oz. of plate brass, and 4 oz. tin. 
When in fusion, add 4 oz. bismutli, and 4 oz. re- 
gulus of antimony. 

This is the hardening, which is to be added at 
discretion to melted tin, until it has tlie reqiusite 
colour and hardness. 

Another. — Melt together 2 lbs. of plate brass, 2 
lbs. of a mixture ::)f copper and arsenic, either by 
cementing or melting, 2 Its. of tin, 2 lbs. of bis- 
muth, and 2 lbs. regulus of antinicny. 

This is to be added at discretion, to melted tin. 
_ Another. — Melt together 1 lb. of copper, 1 lb. 
tin, and 2 lbs. regulus of antimony, with or witli- 
out a little bismuth. 

Another. — Melt togetlier 8 oz. Shruff brass, 2 
lbs. regulus of antimony, and 10 lbs. tin. 
This is fit for use as Britannia metal. 

Gennan tuiania. 
Melt together 2 drachms of copper, 1 oz. of re- 
gulus of antimony, and 12 oz. of tin. 
Spanish tutania. 
To 8 oz. of scrap iron or steel, at a white heat, 
add 1 lb. of antimony in small portions, with 3 os;. 
of nitre. Melt and "haiden 1 lb. ot tin with 2 oa. 
of this compound. 



METALLURGY. 



13 



Another. — Melf together 4 oz. of antimony, 1 

«z. arsenic, and 2 lbs. tin. This compouml is 

ready for use. Tlic first of these Spanish alloys 

wffuld be a beautiful metal, if arsenio were added. 

Engeatroom Uitania. 

Melt together 4 ])arts copper, 8 parts regulus of 
antimony, and I pait bismuth. 

When added to 100 parts of tin, this compound 
vill be re.idy for use. 

Ktistitieii's metal fur tiiining. 

To 1 lb. of malleable iron, at a white heat, add 
5 oz. regulus of antimon)-, and 24 lbs. of the purest 
Molucca tin. 

This alloy polishes without the blue tint, and is 
free from lead or arsenic. 

Solder for steel joints. 

Take of fine silver, 19 pennyweights, copper, 1 
<lo. and brass, 2 do. Melt these luider a coat of 
charcoal dust. 

This solder possesses several advantages over the 
usual spelter solder, or brass, wnen employed in 
soldering cast steel, &ij. as it fuses with less heat, 
and its wliiteness has a Letter appeai-ance than 
brass. 

Brans solder for iron. 

Thin plates of brass are to be melted between 
the pieces that are to be joined. If the work be 
very fine, as when two leaves of .a broken saw are 
to be brazed together, cover it with pulverized bo- 
rax, melted with water ; that it may incorporate 
with the brass powder which is added to it : the 
piece must be then exposed to the fire without 
touching the coals, and heated till the brass is seen 
to run. 

Silver solder for jetvellers. 

Melt together 19 pennyweights of fine silver ; 
copper, 1 pennyweight ; and brass, 10 penny- 
weights. 

Silver solder for plating. 

Melt togetlier 10 pennyweights ot brass, and 1 
oz. of pure silver. 

Gold solder. 

Melt together of pure gold, 12 pennyweights ; 
pure silver, 2 penny weights ; and copper, 4 penny- 
weights. 

Useful alloy of gold ivith platimim. 

Put into a clean crucible 7 drachms and a half of 
pure gold, and when perfectly melted, throw in 
half a drachm of platinum. The two metals will 
c.ombine intimately, forming an alloy rather whiter 
than pure gold, but remarkably ductile and elastic; 
it is also less peristeble than pure gold or jewel- 
lers' gold ; but more readily fusible than that 
metal. 

These excellent qualities must render this alloy 
an object of great interest to workers in metals, 
for springs, where steel cannot be used, it will 
prove exceedingly advantageous. 

It is a curious circumstance, that the alloy of gold 
and platinum is soluble in nitric acid, which does 
not act on either of the metals, in a separate state. 
It is remarkable, too, that the alloy has very nearly 
tlie colour of platinum, eveu when composed of 
eleven parts of gold to one of the former metal. 
Ring gold. 

Melt together of Spanish copper, 6 pennyweights 
•and 12 grains ; fine silvei-, S pennyweights and 16 
grains, to one ounce five pennyweights of gold coin. 
This is wortli about 3/. per ounce. 

Gold from 55s. to 40s. per ounce. 

Melt together 8 ounces 8 pennyweights of Spa- 
Tiisli copper, 10 pennyweights of fine silver, to one 
ounce of gold coin. 

j\lanlieim-gold, or similar. 

Melt togetlier .3 ounces and a half of copper, one 
ounce and a half of brass, and 15 grains of pure 



Preparation of foils. 

Foils are thin plates or leaves of metal that ara 
put under stones, or compositions in imitation of 
stones, when ti\ey are set. 

The intention of foils is either to increase the 
lustre or play of the stones, or more generally to 
improve the colour, by .giving an aclditional force 
to the tinge, whether it be natvtral or artificial, by 
thr>t of a ground of the same hue, which the Ibil is 
in tliis case made to be. 

There are consequently two kinds of foils ; the 
one is colourless, where the effect of giving lustre 
or play to the stone is produced by the polish of 
the surface, which makes it act as a mirror, and, by 
reflecting the light, prevents that deadness which 
attends the having a duller ground under the stone, 
and brings it, by the double refraction of the light 
that is caused, nearer to the effect of the diamond. 
The other is coloured witli some pigment or stair? 
of the same hue as the stone, or of some other 
which is intended to modify and change the hue of 
the stone in some degree ; as, where a yellow foi( 
may be put under green, which is too much incli- 
ning to the blue, or under crimson, where it is de- 
sired to have the appearance more orange or scar- 
let. , 

Foils may be made of copper or tin ; and silver 
has been sometimes used, witli which it has been 
advised, for some purposes, to mix gold ; but the 
expense of either is needless, as copper may be 
made to answer the same end. 

To prepare copper for foils. 

Where coloured foils are wanted, copper may 
therefore be best used, and may be prepai'ed for the 
purpose, by the following means. 

Take copper plates beaten to a proper thickness, 
and pass them betwixt a pair of fine steel rollers 
very close set, and draw them as thin as. is possi- , 
ble to retain a proper tenacity. Polish them with 
very fine whiting, or rotten stone, till they shine, 
and have as much brightness as can be given them, 
and they will tlien be fit to receive the colour. 
To -ivhiteii foils. 

Where the yellow, or rather orange-colour of 
the groiuid would be injui-ious to the effect, as in 
the case of purples, or crimson red, the foils should 
be whitened, which may be done in the following 
manner. 

Take a small quantity of silver, and dissolve it in 
aquafortis, and then put bits%f copper into the so- 
lution, and precipitate the sliver ; which being 
done the fluid must be poured off, and fresh water 
added to it, to wash away all the remainder of tha 
first fluid ; after which the silver must be dried, an 
equal weight of cream of tartar and common salt . 
must then be ground with it, till the whole be re- 
duced to a very fine powder ; and with this mix- 
ture, the foils, being first slightly moistened, must 
be rubbed by the finger, or a bit of linen rag, till 
they be of the degree of whiteness desired ; after 
which, if it appear to be wanted, the polish must be 
refreshed. 

The tin foils are only used in the case of colour- 
less stones, where quicksilver is employed ; and 
they may be drawn out by the same rollers, but 
need not be further polished, so that eft'ect is pro- 
duced by other means in this case. 
Foils for crystals, pebbles, or paste, to give the lus- 
tre and play of diamonds. 

The manner of preparing foils, so as to give co- 
lourless stones the greatest degree of play and lus- 
tre, is by raising so high a polisii or smoothness on 
the surface, as to give them the eftect of a mirror, 
which can only be done, in a perfect manner, by 
the use of quicksilver, applied in the same getieral 
way as in the case of looking-glass. The mcUiod 
by which it may be best performed is as fMlows. 

Ji 



14 



UNI\'ERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



Take leaves of tin, prepared in the same manner 
as for silvering looking-glasses, and cut them into 
small pieces of such size as to cover the surface of 
the sockets or the stones that are to be set. Lay- 
three of these then, one upon another, and having 
moistened the inside of the socket with thin gum- 
wpter, and suftered it to become again so dry, that 
only a slight stickiness remains, put the three 
pieces of leaves, lying on each other, mto it, and 
adapt them to the surface in as even a manner as 
possible. When this is done, heat the socket, and 
fill it with warm quicksilver, which must be suf- 
fered to continue in it three or four minutes, and 
then gently poured ou*. The stone must then be 
thrust into the socket, and closed with it, care 
having been taken to give such room for it that it 
may enter without stripping off the tin and quick- 
silver from any part of the furnace. The work 
should be well closed round the stone, to prevent 
the tin and quicksilver contained in the socket from 
being shaken out by any violence. 
_ The lustre of stcnes set in this manner will con- 
tinue longer than when they ai-e set in the common 
way, as the cavity round them being filled, there 
will be no passage found for moisture, which is so 
injurious to the wear of stones treated in any other 
way. 

This kind of foil likewise gives some lustre to 
glass or other transparent matter, which has little 
of itself; but to stones or pastes, that have some 
share of play, it gives a most beautiful brilliance. 
To colour foils. 
Two methods have been invented for colouring 
foils: the one by tinging the surface of the copper 
of the colour required by means of smoke, the 
other by staining or painting it with some pigment 
or other colouring substance. 

The colours used for painting foils may be tem- 
pered with either oil, water rendered duly viscid 
by gum arahic, size, or v.irnish. Where deep co- 
lours are wanted, oil is most proper, because some 
pigments become wholly transparent in it, as lake, 
or Pi-ussian blue; but yellow and green may be 
belter laid on in varnish, as these colours may be 
had in perfection from a tinge wholly dissolved in 
spirit of wine, in the same manner as in the case 
of lacquers; anfl tlie most beautiful green is to be 
|)roduced by distilled verdigrise, which is apt to 
lose its colour and turn black with oil. In com- 
mon cases, however, any of the colours may be, 
with least trouble, laid on with isinglass size, in 
the same manner as the glazing colours used in 
miniature painting. 

Ruby colours. 
For red, where tlje ruby is to be imitated, car- 
mine, a little lake used in isinglass size, or shell- 
lac varnisli, is to be employed, if the glass or paste 
be ct a full crimson, verging towai'ds the purple; 
but if the glass in-line to the scarlet, or orange, 
veiy bright lake (that is, not purple) may be used 
alone in oil. 

Garnet red. — For the garnet red, dragon's blood 
dissolved in seed-lac varnish may be used; and for 
the vinegar garnet, the orange lake, tempered with 
.shell-lac varnisli, will be found excellent. 

A7Hetliyst. — For the amethyst, lake, with a little 
Prussian IjIu'', used with oil, and very thinly spread 
on the foil, will completely answer the end. 

lilue. — For blue, where a deep colour, or the 
,<;ftt;ct of the sapphire is wanted, Prussian blue, 
diat is ;iot too deep, should be used in oil, and it 
should be spread more or less thinly on the foil, 
according to the lightness or deepness of which the 
colour is required to be. 

Edffle marine. — For the eagle marine, common 
verdigrise, witli a little Prussianblue, tempered in 
shiiU-lac varnish, may be used. 



Yellow. — ^Where a full yellow is desired, the 
foil may be coloured with yellow lacquer, laid on 
as for other purposes; and for the slighter colour 
of topazes the burnish and foil itself will be suffi- 
ciently strong without any addition. 

Green. — For green, where a deep hue is required, 
the crystals of verdigrise, tempered in shell-lac 
varnish, should be used, but where the emerald is 
to be imitated, a little yellow lacquer should be 
added, to bring the colour to a truer green, and 
less verging to the blue. 

Other colonics. — The stones of more diluted co- 
lour, such as the amethyst, topaz, vinegar-garnet, 
and eagle-marine, may be very cheaply imitated by 
transparent white glass or paste, even without foils 
This is to be done by tempering the colours abova 
enumerated with turpentine and mastic, and paint- 
ing the socket in which the counterfeit stone is to 
be set with the mixture, the socket and stone itself 
being previously heated. In this case, however, 
the stone should be immediately set, and the socket 
closed upon it before the mixture cools and growj 
hard. The orange lake above-mentioned was in- 
vented for this purpose, in which it has a beautiful 
effect, and was used with great success by a con- 
siderable manufacturer. I'he colour it produces 
is that of the v'negar-garnet, which it affords with 
great brightness. The colours before directed to 
be used in oil should be extremely well ground in 
oil of turpentine, and tempered with old nut or 
poppy oil; or, if time can be given for the drying, 
with strong fat oil; diluted with spirit of turpen- 
tine, which will gain a fine polish of itself. 

The colours used in varnish should be likew-ise 
thoroughly v/ell ground and mixt; at: I, in the.case 
of the dragon's blood in the seed-lac varnish and 
the lacquer, the foils should be warmed before they 
are laid out. All the mixtures should be laid on 
tlie foils with a bro.id soft brush, which must be 
passed from one end to the other, and no part 
should be crossed, or twice gone over, or, at least, 
not till the first coat can be dry; when, if the co- 
lour do not lie strong enough, a second coat may 
be s;iven. 



GILDING, SIL\T1RING, AND TINNING. 

To gild glass and porcelain. 

Drinking, and other glasses are sometimes gilt 
on their edges. This is done, either by an adhe- 
sive varnish, or by heat. The varnish is prepared 
by dissolving in boiled linseed oil an equal weight 
either of copal or amber. This is to be diluted by 
8 proper quantity of oil of turpentine, so as to be 
applied as thin as possible to the parts of the glass 
intended to be gilt. When this is done, which 
will be in about 24 hours, the glass is to be placed 
in a stove, till it is so warm as almost to burn the 
fingers when handled. At this temperature, the 
varnish will become adhesive, and a piece of leaf» 
gold, applied in the usual way, will immediately 
stick. Sweep off the superfluous portions of the 
leaf; and when quite cold, it may be burnished, 
taking care to interpose a piece of very thin paper 
(Indian paper) between the gold and the burnisher. 
If the varnish is very good, this is the best method 
of gilding glass, as the gold is thus fixed on more 
evenly, than in any other way. 

Another method. — It often happens, when the 
varnish is but indifferent, that by repealed washing 
the gold wears off: on this account ttie practice ot 
burning it in, is sometimes had recourse to. 

For this purpose, some gold powder is ground 
with borax, .and in this state applied to the clean 
surface of the glass, by a camel's hair pencil; when 
quite dry, the glass is put into a stove heated tc 



METALLURGY. 



IS 



about the temperature of an arnealing oven; the 
gura burns off', and the borax, by vitrifying-, ce- 
ments the gold with great firmness to the glass; 
after which it raay be burnished. The gilding upon 
porcelain is in I'ke manner fixed by heat and the 
use of borax; and this kind of ware beitig neither 
transparent nor liable to soften, and thus to be in- 
jured in its form in a low-red heat, is free from 
the risk and injury which the finer and more fusi- 
ble kinds of glass are apt to sustain from such treat- 
ment. Porcelain and other wares may be platinized, 
silvered, tinned, and bronzed, in a similar manner. 
To gild leather. 

In order to impress gilt figures, letters, and 
-•ther marks upon leather, as on the covers of books, 
edgings for doors, &o. the leather must first be 
dusted over with very finely powdered yellow resin, 
or mastich gum. The iron tools or stamps are 
now arranged on a rack before a clear fire, so as to 
be well healed, without becoming red hot. If the 
tools are letters, they have an alphabetical ar- 
rangement en the rack. Each letter or stamp must 
be tried as to its heat, by imprinting its mark on 
the raw side of a piece of waste leather. A little 
practice will enable the workman to judge of the 
heat. The tool is now to be pressed downwards 
on the gold leaf; whicli will of course be indented, 
and show the figure imprinted on it. The next 
letter or stamp is now to be taken and stamped in 
like manner, and so on with the others; taking 
care to keep the letters in an even line with each 
other, like those in a book. By this operation, the 
resin is melted; consequently the gold adheres to 
the leather; the superfluous gold may then be rub- 
bed off by a cloth, the gilded impressions remain- 
ing on the leather. In this, as in every other ope- 
ration, adroitness is acquired by practice. 

The cloth alluded to should be slightly greasy, 
to retain the gold wiped oft'; (otherwise there will 
be great waste in a few months,) the cloth will 
thus be soon completely saturated or loaded with 
the gold. When this is the case, these cloths are 
generally sold to the refiners, who burn them and 
recover the gold. Some of these afford so much 
gold by burning, as to be worth from a guinea to a 
guinea and a half. 

To gild -writings, drawings, &c. on paper or parch- 
ment. 

Letters written on vellum or paper are gilded in 
three ways: in the first, a little size is mixed with 
the ink, and the letters are written as usual; when 
they are dry, a slight degree of stickiness is pro- 
duced by breathing on them, upon which the gold 
leaf is immediately applied, and by a little pres- 
sure may be made to adhere with sufficient firm- 
ness. In the second method, some white-lead or 
chalk is ground up with strong size, and the let- 
ters are made with this by means of a brush: when 
the mixture is almost dry, the gold leaf may be 
laid on, and afterwards burnished. The last me- 
thod is to mix up some gold powder with size, and 
to form the letters of this by means of a brush. 
It is supposed that this latter method was that used 
Oy the monks in illuminating their missals, psal- 
ters, and rubrics. 

To gild the edges of paper. 

The edges of the leaves of books and letter paper 
are gilded, whilst in a horizontal position in the 
bookbinder's press, by first applying a composition 
formed of four parts of Armenian bole, and one of 
candied sugar, ground together with water to a 
proper consistence, and laid on by a brush with the 
white of an e,^. Tliis coating, when nearly diy, 
is smoothed by the burnisher, which is generally 
a crooked piece of agate, very smooth, and fixed 
in a handle. It is then slightly moistened by a 
sponge dipped in clean water. «iui3 suticezed in the 



hand. The gold leaf is now taken upon a piece 
of cotton from the leathern cushion, and applied 
on the moistened surface. When dry, it is to be 
burnished by rubbing the agate over it repeatedly 
from end to end, taking care not to wound the sur- 
face by the point of the burnisher. A piece of 
silk or India paper is usually interposed between 
the gold and the burnisher. 

Cotton wool is generally used by bookbinders to 
take the leaf up from the cushion; being the best 
adapted for the purpose on account of its pliabili- 
ty, smoothness, softness, and slight moistiiess. 
To gild silk, satin, ivory, &c. by hydrogen gas. 

Immerse a piece of white satin, silk, or ivory in 
a solution of nitro-muriate of gold, in the propor- 
tion of one part of the nitro-muriate to three of 
distilled water. Whilst the substance to bo gilded 
is still wet, immerse it m a jar of hydrogen gas; 
it will soon be covered by a complete coat of gold. 

Another method. — The foregoing experiment 
may be very prettily and advantageously varied as 
follows: — Paint flowers or other ornaments with a 
very fine, camel hair pencil, dipped in the above 
mentioned solution of gold, on pieces of silk, satin, 
&c. 8cc. &c. and hold them over a Florence fl:iskj- 
from which hydrogen gas is evolved, during the 
decomposition of the water by sulphuric acid and 
iron filings. The painted flowers, Jkc. in a few 
minutes, will shine with all the splendour of the 
purest gold. A coating of this kind will not tar- 
nish on exposure to the air, or in washing. 
Oil gilding on -wood. 

The wood must first be covered, or primed, by 
two or three coatings of boiled linseed oil and car- 
bonate of lead, in order to fill up the pores, and 
conceal the irregularities of the surface, occasidh- 
ed by the veins in the wood. When the priming 
is quite dry, a thin coat of gold-size must be laid 
on. This is prepared by grinding together some 
red oxide of lead with the thickest drying oil that 
can be procured, and the older the better, that it 
may work freely; it is to be mixed, previously to 
being used, with a little oil of turpentine, till it is 
brought to a proper consistence. If the gold-size 
is good, it will be sufficiently dry va twelve hours, 
more or less, to allow tlie artist to proceed to the 
last part of the process, which is the application of 
the gold. For this purpose a leaf of gold is spread 
on a cushion (formed by a few folds of flannel se- 
cured on apiece of wood, about eiarht inches square 
by a tight covering of leather,) and is cut into strips 
of a proper size by a blunt pallet knife ; each rttrip 
being then taken upon the point of a fine brush, 
is applied to the part intended to be gilded and is 
then gently pressed down by a ball of soft cotton , 
the gold immediately adheres to the sticky surface 
of the size, and after a few minutes, the dexterous 
■epplication of a large camel'.s hair brush sweeps 
away the loose particles of the gold-leaf without 
disiurbing the rest. In a day or two the size v; ill 
be completely dried, and the operation wili he 
finished. 

The advantages of this method of gilding are 
that it is very simple, veiy durable, and not reaiii 
ly injured by changes of weather, even when ex 
posed to the open air ; and when soiled it may be 
fleaned by a little warm water and a soft brush : . 
its chief emplojmient is h. outdoor work. Its dis- 
advantage is, that it cannot be burnished, and there- 
fore wants the high lustre produced by the follow- 
ing method : 

To gild by burnishing. 

This operation is chiefly perfonned on picture- 
frames, mouMings, beading's, and fine stucco work 
The surface to be gilt must be carefully covered 
with a strong size, made by boiling down pieces of 
wliite leather, or clippings of parchment, till thej 



16 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



are reduced to a stiff jelly; this coatingteing dried, 
eight or ten more must be applied, consistiag of 
the same size, mixed with fine Paris plaster or 
washed chalk; when a sufficient number of layers 
have been put on, varying according to the nature 
of the work, and the whole is L.ecome quite dry, a 
moderately thick layer must be applied, composed 
of size and Armenian bole, or yellow oxide of lead: 
while this last is yet moist, the gold leaf is to be 
put on in the usual manner; it will immediately 
adhere on being pressed by the cotton ball, and 
before the size is become perfectly dry, those parts 
which are intended to be the most brilliant are to 
be carefully burnished by an agate or a dog's tooth 
fixed in a handle. 
»ln order to save the labour of burnishing, it is a 
common, but bad practice, slightly to burnish the 
brilliant parts, and to deaden the rest by drawing 
a brush over them dipped ^in size; the required 
contrast between the polished and the unpolished 
gold is indeed thus obtained; but the general effect 
is much inferior to that produced in the regular 
way, and the smallest drop of water falling on the 
sized part occasions a stain. This kind of gilding 
can only be applied on in-door work; as rain, and 
even a considerable degree of dampness, will occa- 
sion the gold to peal off. When dirty, it may be 
cleaned by a soft brush, with hot spirit of wine, or 
oil of turpentine. 

The parts to be ournished (in gilding on metals) 
being covered with the usual guarding, the piece 
is fastened bj* five iron wires to the end of an iron 
rod; it is thou to be liigl)ly heated until the guard- 
ing becomes brown, when the gildin,^ will be found 
to have acquired a fine gold colour. It is now to 
be covered with a mixture of common salt, nitre, 
and alum, liquefied in the water of crystallization 
r.hey contain; the piece is to be carried again to 
the fire, and heatecl until the saline coating is in a 
state of fusion, and l)ecomes nearly transparent, 
when it must be withdrawn and suddenly plunged 
into cold water, which removes both coating and 
guarding. Dip it afterwards in very -weak nitric 
Kcid, arid wash it repeatedly in several separate 
tubs of water. It may be dried either by exposure 
to air, or gently v^iping it with clean, soft, dry 
linen. 

To gild copper, &c. by amalgam. 

Immerse a %-erv clean bright piece of copper in 
» dilated solution of nitrate of mercury. By the 
affinity of copper for nitric fxid, the mercury will 
be precipit'^ted: now spread the amalgam of gold, 
rather thinly, over the coat of mercury just given 
to the copper. This coat unites with the amalgam, 
but of course will remain on the copper. Now 
place the piece or pieces so operated on in a clean 
oven or furnace, where there is no smoke. If the 
heat is a little greater than 660°, tbe mercury of 
the amalgam will be volatilized, and the copper 
will be beautifully gilt. 

In the large way of gilding, the furnaces are so 
contrived tJiat the volatilized mercury is again 
condensed, and preserved for further use, so that 
thei'e is no loss in the operation. There is also a 
contrivance by which the volatile particles of mer- 
cury are prevented from injuring the gilders. 
To gild steel. 

Pour some of the ethereal solution of gold into 
a wine glass, and dip therein the blade of a new 
pen-knife, lancet, or razor; withdraw the instru- 
ment, anci allow the ether to evaporate. The blade 
will be found to be covered by a very beautiful 
coat of gold. A clean rag, or small piece of very 
diy sponge, may be dipped in the ether, and used 
to moisten the blade, with the same result. 

in this case there is no occasion to pour the 



liquid into a glass, which must undoubtedly lose 
by evaporation; but the rag or sponge may be 
moistened by it, by applying either to the mouth 
of the phial. This coating of gold will remain on 
the steel for a great length of time, and will pre- 
serve it from rusting. 

This is the way in which swords and other cut- 
lery are ornamented. Lancets too are in this way 
gilded with great advantage, to secure them from 
rust. 

Gold potuder for gilding. 
Gold powder may be prepared in three differ- 
ent ways: — put into an eai-then mortar some gold 
leaf, with a little honey or thick gum-water, and 
grind the mixture till the gold is reduced to ex- 
tremely minute particles. When this is done, a 
little warm water will wash out the honey or gum, 
leaving the gold behind in a pulverulent state. 

Another. — Another way is, to dissolve pure gold, 
(or the leaf,) in nitro-muriatic acid, and then to 
precipitate it by a piece of copper, or by a solution 
of sulphate of iron. The precipitate ( if by copper, ) 
must be digested in distilled vinegar, and then 
washed, (by pouring water over it repeatedly,) and 
dried. This precipitate will be in the form of .1 
•very fine powder: it works better, and is more 
easily burnished than gold leaf ground with honey 
as above. 

Another. — The best method of preparing gold 
po'.vder, is by heating a prepared amalgam of gold, 
in an open clean crucible, and continuing the strong 
heat until the whole of the mercury is evaporated; 
at the same time constantly stirring the ajnalgam 
with a glass rod. When the mercury has com- 
pletely left the gold, the remaining powder is to 
be ground in a Wedgwood's mortar, with a little 
water, and afterwards dried. It istlienfit for use. 
Although the last mode of operating has been 
here given, the operator cannot be too much re- 
minded of the danger attending the sublimation of 
mercury. In the small way here described, it is 
impossible to operate v.ithout danger; it is there- 
fore better to prepare it according to the former 
directions, than to risk the health by the latter. 
To cover bars of copper, &c. iuithgold,so as to be 
rolled out into sheets. 
This method of gilding was invented by IVIr 
Turner of Birmingham. Mr Turner fii'st prepares 
ingots or pieces of copper or brass, in convenient 
lengths and sizes. He then cleans them from im- 
purity, and makes their surfaces level, and pre- 
pares plates of pure gold, or gold mixed with a 
portion of alloy, of the same size as the ingots of 
metal, and of suitable thickness. Having placed a 
piece of gold upon an ingot intended to be plated, 
he hammers and compresses them both together, 
so that they may have their surfaces as nearly 
equal to each other as possible; and then binds them 
together with v/ire, in order to keep them in the 
same position during the process required to at- 
tach them. Afterwards he takes silver filings, 
which he mixes with borax, to assist the fusion of 
the silver. This mixture he lays upon the edge of 
the plate of gold, and next to the ingot of metal. 
Having thus prepared the two bodies, he places 
them on a fire in a stove or furnace, where they 
remain until the silver and borax placed along the 
edges of the metals melt, and until the adhesion 
of the gold with the metal is perfect. He thea 
takes the ingot carefully out of the stove. By this 
process the ingot is plated with gold, and prepared 
ready for rolling into sheets. 

To silve''' copper ingots. 
The principal difliculties in plating copper in- 
gots are, to bring the surfaces of the copper and 
silver into fusion at the same time; and to prevent 
the cop';;>«"r froro "caling; for which purposes fliixe<5 



METALLURGY. 



n 



are used. The surface of the copper on which the 
silver is to be fixed must be made flat bj filing, and 
should be left rough. The silver is first annealed, 
and afterwards pickled in weak spirit of salt; it is 
planished, and then scraped on the surface to be 
fitted on the copper. These prepared surfaces 
are anointed witii a solution of borax, or strewed 
with fine powdered borax itself, and then confined 
•n contact with each other, by binding wire. 
Wlien they are exposed to a sufficient degree of 
heat, the flux causes the surfaces to fuse at the same 
time, and after they become cold, they are found 
firmly united. 

Copper may likewise be plated by heating it, 
and burnishing leaf-silver upon it; so may iron and 
brass. This process is called French plating. 
To gild in coloiirs. 
The principal colours of gold for gilding are red, 
green, and yellow. These should be kei)t in dif- 
ferent amalgams. The jiart which is to remain of 
the first colour, is to be stopped off with a compo- 
sition of chalk and glue; the variety required is 
produced by gilding tlie unstopped parts with the 
proper amalgam, according to thj usual mode of 
gilding. 

Sometimes the amalgam is applied to the surface 
vO be gilt, without any quicking, by spreading it 
with aqua fortis; but this depends on the same prin- 
ciple as a pi-evlous quicking. 

Grecian gilding. 
Equal parts of sal-ammoniac and corrosive sub- 
limate, are dissolved in spirit of nitre, and a solu- 
tion of gold made with this menstrum. Tiie silver 
s brushed over with it, which is turned black, but 
on exposure to a red heat, it a,"=suraes the colour of 
gold. 

To dissolve gold in aqua regia. 
Take an aqua regia, composed of two parts of 
nitrous acid, and one of marine acid; or of one part 
of sal-ammoniac, and four parts of aquafortis; let 
the gold be granulated, put into a sufficient quanti- 
ty of this menstruum, and exposed to a moderate 
degree of heat. During the solution an efferves- 
cence takes place, and it acquires a beautiful yel- 
low colour, which becomes more and more intense, 
till it has a golden or even orange colour. When 
the menstruum is saturated, it is very clear and trans- 
parent. 

To gild iron or steel -with a solution of gold. 
Make a solution of 8 ounces of nitre and com- 
mon salt, with 5 ounces of crude alum in a suffi- 
cient quantity of water; dissolve half an ounce of 
gold thinly plated and cut; and afterwards evapo- 
rate to dr3"ness. Digest the residuum in rectified 
spirit of wine or ether, which will perfectly ab- 
stract the gold. The iron is brushed over with 
this solution and becomes immediately gilt. 
To gild, by clinsolving gold in aqua regt.a. 
Fine linen rags are soaked in a saturated solu- 
tion of gold in aqua regia, gently dried, and after- 
wards burnt to tinder. TJie substance to be gilt 
must be Avell polished; a piece of cork is first dip- 
ped into a solution of common salt in water, and 
afterwards into the tinder, which is well rubbed 
on the surface of the metal to be gilt, and the gold 
appears in all its metallic lustre. 

Amalgam of gold, in the large tvay. 
A quantity of quicksilver is put into a crucible 
or iron ladle, wliich is lined with clay and exposed 
to heat till it begins (o smoke. The gold to be 
mixed should be previously granulated, and heated 
red hot, when it should be added to the ([uicksil- 
ver, and stirred about with an iron rod till it is per- 
fectly dissolved. If thci-e should be any superflu- 
ous mercury, it may be separated by passing it 
ihrough clean soft leather; and the remaining amal- 



gam will have the consisteiicc of butter, and con- 
tain about three parts of mercury to one of gold. 

To gild by amalgamation. 

The metal to be gilt is previously well cleaned 
on its surface, by boiling it in a weak pickle, which 
is a very dilute nitrous acid. A q\iantity of aqua 
fortis is poured into an earthen vessel, and quick 
silver put therein; Mhcn a sufficient quantity of 
mercury is dissolved, the ajticles to be gilt are 
put into the solution, and stirred about with a 
brush till they become wliite. Tiiis is called quick- 
ing. But, as during quicking by this mode, a nox- 
ious vapour continually arises, which proves very 
ik;jurio\!3 to the health of the workman, they have 
adopted another method, by whicli they, in a great 
measure, avoid that danger. Tliey now dissolve 
the quicksilver in a bottle containing aqua fortis, 
and leave it in the open air during tlie solution, so 
that the noxious vapour escapes into the air. Then 
a little of this solution is poured into a basin, and 
with a brush dipped therein, they stroke over the 
surface of the metal to be gilt, which immediately 
becomes quicked. The amalgam is now applied 
by one of the following methods: — viz. 

1st. By pi-oportioning it to ilie quantity of arti- 
cles to be gilt, and putting tliem into a white hat 
togetlier, working them about with a soft brush, till 
tlie amalgam is uniformly spread. 

Or, Silly. By applying a portion of the amalgam 
upon one part, and spreading it on the surface, if 
flat, by working it about with a harder brush. 

The work thus managed is put into a pan, and 
exposed to a gentle degree of heat; when it becomes 
Iiot, it is frequently put into a liat, and worked 
about with a painter's large brush, to prevent an 
irregular dissipation ofthe mercury, till, at last, tbr 
quicksilver is entirely dissipated hy a repetition oi 
the heat, and the gold is attached to the surface of: 
the metal. This gilt surface is well cleaned by » 
wire brush, and then artists lieighten the colour ot 
the gold by the application of various composiuons; 
this part of the process is called colouring. 
To silver by heat. 

Dissolve an ounce of pure silver in aqua fortis, 
and precipitate it with common silt; to whicfi 
add ^ lb. of sal ammoniac, sandiver, and white vi- 
triol, and i oz. of sublimate. 

Another method. — Dissolve an ounce of pui-e sil- 
ver in aqua fortis; precipitate it with common salt, 
and add, after washing, 6 ounces of common salt, 3 
ounces each of sandiver and white vitriol, aiid;|-cz. 
of sublimate. 

These are to be groxmd into a paste upon a fine 
stone with a muller; the substance to be silvei-ed 
must be rubbed over with a sufiicient quantity of 
the paste, and exposed to a proper degree of heat. 
Where the silver runs, it is taken from the fire, 
and dipped into weak spirit of salt to clean -t. 
Silvering on gilt -work, by amalgamation. 

Silver will not attach itself to any metal by amai- 
gamation, unless it be first gilt. The process is ti»e 
same as gilding in colom-s, only ao acid should Uti 
used. 

To silver in the cold -way. 

Take two drachms of each, tartar and common 
salt; -J a drachm of alum, and 20 grains of siWer, 
precipitated from the nitrous acid by copper; make 
them into a paste witli a litdo water. Tliis is to be 
rubbed on the surface to be silvered with a coik, b«c. 

Another met/tod,' — 'Dissoive pure silver in aqua 
fortis, and precipitate the silver with common 
salt; make tliis precipitate into a paste, by adding a 
little more salt and cream of tartar. It is applied 
as in tlie former method. 

To separate the sihvr from plated copper. 
Tills process is applied to recover the silver from 

B2 



18 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



the plated inetal, which has been rolled down for 
buttons, toys, ^c. without destroying any large 
portion of the copper. For this purpose, a men- 
struum is composed of 3 pounds of oil of vitriol, 1^ 
ounce of nitre, and a pound of water. The plat- 
ed metal is boiled in it till tlie silver is dissolved, 
and then the silver is recovered by tlirowing com- 
mon salt into the solution. 

To assay plated metals. 
Take a determinate quantity of the plated me- 
tal; put it into an eartlien vessel, with a sufficient 
quantity of the above menstruum, and place it in a 
gentle heat. When the silver is stripped, it must 
be collected with common salt; the calx must -e 
tested with lead, and the estimate mad^ according 
to the product of silver. 

To plate iron. 
Iron m.iT be plated by three different modes. 
1st. By polishing the surface very clean and 
level with a burnisher; and afterwards by exposing 
it to a blueing heat, a leaf of silver is properly 
placed and carefully burnished down. This is re- 
pe.atef' till a sufficient number of leaves are apiilied, 
to give the silver a ])roper body. 

2d. By the use of a solder; slips of thin solder are 
placed between the iron and silver, with a little 
flux, and secured together by binding wire. It is 
then placed in a clear fire, and continued in it till 
the solder melts; when it is t.^ken out, and on cool- 
mg is found to adhere firmly. 

And 3d. By tinning the iron first, and uniting 
the silver by the intermedia of slips of rolled tin, 
brought into fusion in a gentle heat. 

To heighten the colour of yellow gold. 
Take of salt petre, fi oz. green copperas, 2 oz. 
white vitriol and alum, of each, 1 oz. 

If it be wanted redder, a small portion of blue 
vitriol must be added. Tiiese are to be well mix- 
ed, and dissolved in water as the colour is wanted. 
To heiifhten the colour of green gold. 
Take of salt petre, 1 oz. lOdwts. sal ammoniac, 
1 oz. 4 dwts. Roman vitriol, 1 oz. 4 dwts. verdi- 
gris, 18 dwts. Mix them Well together, and dis- 
solve a portion in water, as occasion requii-es. 

Tlie work must be dipped in these compositions, 
applied to a proper heat to burn tl*em off, and then 
quenched in water or vinegar. 

To heighten the colour of red gold. 
To 4 oz. of melted yellow wax, add, in fine pow- 
der, 1^ oz. of red ochre, Ij oz. of verdigris, cal- 
cined till it yield no fumes, and ^ an oz. of calcin- j 
ed borax; mix them well togetlier. It is necessa- I 
ly to calcine the verdigris, or else, by the heat ap- 
plied in burning the wax, the vinegar becomes so 
concentrated as to corrode the surface, and make 
it appear speckled. 

To separate gold from gilt, copper and silver. 
App.'y a solution of borax, in water, to tlie gilt 
surface, with a fine brush, and sprinkle over it some 
fine powdered suljihur. ilake the piece red hot, and 
quench it in water. The gold may be easily wiped 
off with a scratch-brush, and recovered by testing 
it with lead. 

Gold is taken from the surface of silver by 
spreading over it a paste, made of powdered sal am- 
moniac, with acjua fortis, and heating it till the 
matter smokes, and is nearly dry; when tlie gold 
may be separated by rubbing it with a scratch brush. 
To tin copper and brass. 
Boil SIX pounds of cream of tartar, four gallons 
of water, and eight pounds of grain tin, or tin sha- 
vings. After the materials have boiled a sufficient 
time, the substance to be tinned is put therein, and 
the boiling continued, when the tin is precipitated 
in its metallic form. I 

To tin iron or copper z-essels. 
Iron which is to be tinned!, must be previously 



steeped in acid materials, such as sour whey, dis» 
tillers'wash. Sec; then scoured, and dipped in melt ■ 
ed tin, having been first rubbed over with a solu- 
tion of sal ammoniac. The surface of the tin is 
prevented from calcining, by covering it with a coat 
of fat. Copper vessels mus't be well cleansed; and 
then a sufficient quantity of tin with sal ammoniac 
is put therein, and brought into fusion, and the cop- 
per vessel moved about. A little resin is some- 
times added. The sal ammoniac prevents the cop- 
per from scaling, and causes the tin to be fixe-d 
wherever it touches. Lately, zinc has been pro- 
jiosed for lining vessels instead of tin, to avoid the 
ill consequences which have been unjustly appre- 
hended. 

To prepare the leaden tree. 

Put J an ounce of the super-acetate of lead in 
powder, into a clear glass globe or wine decanter, 
filled to the bottom of the neck with distilled 
water, and 10 drops of nitric acid, and shake the 
mixture well. Prepare a rod of zinc with a ham- 
mer and file, so that it may be a quaiter of an inch 
thick, and one inch long; at the same time form 
notches in each side for a thread, by which it is to 
be suspended, and tie the thread so that the knot 
shall be uppermost, when the metal hangs quite per- 
pendicular. When it is tied, pass the two ends o.' 
the thread through a perforation in the cork, and 
let them be again tied over a small splinter of wood 
wliich may pass between them and the cork. 
When the string is tied, let the length between the 
cork and the zinc be such that the precipitant (the 
zinc) may beat equal distances from the sides, bot- 
tom, and top, of the vessel, when immersed in it. 
When all things arc thus prepared, place the ves- 
sel in a place where it may not be disturbed, and 
introduce the zinc, at the same time fitting in the 
cork. The metal will very soon be covered with 
the lead, which it precipitates from the solution, 
and this will continue to take place until the wliole 
be precipitated upon the zinc, which will assume 
the form of a tree or bush, whose leaves and 
branches are larainal, or plates of a metallic lus- 
tre. 

7'o prepare the tin tree. 

Into the same, or a similar vessel to that used in 
the last experiment, pour distilled water as before, 
and put in three drachms of muriate of tin, addinir 
ten drops of nitric acid, and shake the vessel until 
the salt he completely dissolved. Replace the zino 
(which must be cleared from the eftects of the 
former experiment,) as before, and set the whole 
aside to precipitate without disturbance, in a few 
hours, the effect will be similar to the last, only 
that the tree of tin will have more lustre. In these 
experiments, it is surprising to observe the laminse 
shoot out as it were from nothing ; but this pheno- 
menon seems to proceed from a galvanic action ot 
the metals and the water. 

To prepare the silver tree. 

Pour into a glass globe or decanter, 4 drachms 
of nitrate of silver, dissolved in a pound or more 
of distilled water, and lay the vessel on the cliininey 
piece, or in some place where it may not be dis- 
turbed. Now pour in 4 drachms of mercury. In 
a short time the silver will be precipitated in die 
most beautiful arborescent form, resembling real 
vegetation. This has been generally termed the 
Arbor Dianse. 

Metallic -watering, or for blajic moire. 

This article, of Parisian invention, wliich is mueJ- 
employed to cover ornamental cabinetwork, dress- 
ing boxes, telescopes, opera glasses, Sec. Stc. is pre- 
pared in the following manner. 

Sulphuric acid is to be diluted with from seven 
to nine parts of water ; then dij) a sponge or ra^ 
into it, and wash with it the surface of a sheet o> 



METALLURGY. 



19 



tm. This will speedily exhibit an appearance of 
crystallization, whicn is the moire. 

This effect, howevei", cannot be easily produced 
upon every sort of sheet tin, for if the sheet has 
been much hardened by hammering or rolling, 
then the moire cannot be effected until the sheet 
has been heated so as to produce an incipient fusion 
on the surface, after which the acid will act upon 
it, and produce the moire. Almost any acid will 
do as well as the sulphuric, and it is said that tlie 
citric acid dissolved in a sufficient quantity of wa- 
ter, answers better than any other. 

I'he moire may be much improved by employ- 
ing the blow pipe, to f-^rm small and beautiful 
specks on the surface of the tin, pi'evious to the ap- 
plication of the acid. 

When the moire has been formed, the plate is 
to be varnished and polished, the varnish being 
tinted with any glazing colour, and thus the red, 
green, yellow, and pearl coloured moires are ma- 
nufacturcjd. 

Cldnese sheet lead. 

The operation is cai-ried on by two men ; one 
IS seated on the floor with a large flat stone before 
him, and vitli a moveable flat stone-stand at his 
side. His fellow workman stands beside him with 
a crucible filled with melted lead ; and having 
poured a certain quantity upon the stone, the other 
lifts the moveable stone, and dashing it on the fluid 
lead presses it out into a flat and thin plate, which 
he instantly removes from the stone. A second 
(juantity of lead is poured in a similar manner, and 
a similar plate formed, the process being carried 
on with singular rapidity. The rough edges of the 
plates are then cut off, and they are soldered to- 
getiser for use. 

Mr Waddel lias applied this method witli great 
success to the formation of thin plates of zinc, for 
galvanic purposes. 



PARTING. 



By this process gold and silver are separated from 
each other. These two metals equally resisting 
the action of fire and lead, must therefore be sepa- 
rated by other means. This is effected by differ- 
ent menstrua. Nitrous acid, marine acid, and sul- 
phur, which citnnot attack gold, operate upon sil- 
ver ; and these are the principal agents employed 
in this process. 

Parting by nitrous acid is most convenient, con- 
sequently most used, — indeed, it is the only one 
employed by goldsmiths. This is called simply 
parting. 

That made by the marine acid is by cementation, 
and is called centrated parting ; and parting by 
sulphur is made by fusion, and called drt paht- 

I3fG. 

Parting by aquafortin. 
This process cannot succeed unless we attend to 
some essential circumstances : 1st. the gold and 
silver must be in a proper portion, viz. the silver 
ought to be three parts to one of gold ; though a 
mass containing two parts of silver to one of gold 
may be parted. To judge of the quality of the 
metal to be parted, assayers make a comparison 
upon a touch-stone, between it and certain needles 
composed of gold and silver, in graduated propor- 
tions, and properly marked ; which are called 
FiiooF NEEDIES. If this trial shews that the silver 
is not to the gold as three to one, the mass is im- 
proper for the operation, unless more silver be 
added ; and '2dly, that the parting may be exact, 
the aqua fortis must be very pure, especially free 
from any mixture of the vitriolic cr marine acid. 
For if this were not attended to, a quantity of sil- 



ver proportionable to these two foreign acids would 

be separated during the solution ; and this quanti- 
ty of sulphate of silver would remain mingled witli 
the gold, which consequently would not be entii'elv 
purified by the operation. 

The gold and silver to be parted ought previous- 
ly to be granulated, by melting it in a crucible, and 
pouring it into a vessel of water, giving the water 
at the same time a rapid circular motion, by quick- 
ly stirring it round with a stick. The vessels ge- 
nerally used in this operation are called partmg 
glaoses, which ought to be very well annealed, and 
chosen free from flaws ; as one of the chief incon- 
veniencesattendingthe operation is, tiiatthe glasses 
are apt to crack by exposure to cold, or even wiien 
touched by the hand. Some operators secure the 
bottom of the glasses by a coating composed of a 
mixture of nevv-slaked lime, with beer and whites 
of eggs, spread on a cloth, and wi-apped round the 
glasses at the bottom ; over wliich they a])ply a 
composition of clay and hair. The parting glasses 
should be placed in vesselscontaining water support- 
ed by trivets, with a fire under them ; because if a 
glass should break, the contents are caught in the 
vessel of water. If the heat communicated to the 
water be too great, it may be properly regulated by 
pouring cold water gradually and carefully down 
the side of the vessel into a parting glass 15 inches 
high, and 10 or 12 inches wide at the bottom ; 
placed in a copper pan 12 inches wide at bottom, 
15 laches wide at top, and 10 inches high, there is 
usually put about 80 ounces of metal, with twice as 
much of aqua fortis. 

The aqua fortis ought to be so strong as to act 
sensibly on silver, when cold, but not so strong as 
to act violently. Little heat should be applied at 
first, as the liquor is apt to swell and rise over the ' 
vessel ; but when the acid is nearly saturated, the 
heat may safely be increased. When the solution 
ceases, which is known oy the eft'ervescencc dis- 
continuing, the liquor is to be poured off ; if any 
grains appear entire, more aqua fortis must be 
added, till the silver is all dissolved. If the ope- 
ration has been performed slowl}', the remaining 
gold will have the form of distinct masses. The 
gold appears black after parting ; its parts have no 
adhesion together, because the silver disiolved from 
it has left many interstices. To give them more 
solidity, and improve their colour, they are put 
into a test under a muffle, and made red hot, after 
whicb they contract and become more solid, and 
the gold resumes its colour and lustre. It is then 
called GRAIN GOi-n. If the operation has been per- 
formed hastily, the gold will have the appearance 
of black mud or powder, which, after well washing, 
must be melted. 

The silver is usually recovered by precipitating 
it from the aqua fortis by means ot pure copper. 
If the solution be perfectly satiu-aled, no prt?cipi- 
tation can take place, till a few drops of aqua fortis 
are 'udded to the liquor. The precipitate of silver 
must be well washed with boiling. water, and may 
be fused with nitre, or tested off with lead. 
Parting by cementation. 

A cement is prepared, composed of four parts 
of bricks powdered and sifted ; of one part of 
green vitriol calcined fill it becomes red ; and of 
one part of common salt : this is to be made into 
a firm paste ^vitli a little water. It is called the 

CEMENT KOTAL. 

The gold to be cemented is i educed into plates 
as thin as money. At the bottom of the crucible 
or cementing pot, a sti-atum of cement, of the 
thickness of a finger, is put, which is covered with 
plates of gold ; and so the strata are placed alter- 
nately. The whole is covered with a lid, v.hich 
is luted with a mixture of clay and sand. This 



fO 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



pot nmst be placed in a furnace, or oven, heated 
gradually till it becomes red hot, in which it must 
be continued during 24 hours*. The heat must not 
meit the gold. The pot or crucible is ihen suffered 
to cool; and the gold carefully separated from the 
cement, and boiled at different time? in a large 
quantity of pure water. It is then assayed upon a 
toucVi-stone, or otherwise; and if it be not suffi- 
ciently pure, it is cemented a second time. In this 
process the vitriolic acid of the bricks, and of the 
calcined vitriol, decomposes the common salt du- 
ring the cementation, by uniting to its alkaline 
base, Vi'hile the marine acid becomes concentrated 
by the heat and dissolves the silver alloyed with the 
gold. This is a very troublesome process, tiiongh 
it succeeds -when the portion of silver is so small 
that it would be defended from the action of aqua 
fortis by the superabundant gold; but is little used, 
except to extract silver, or base metals, from the 
surface of gold, and f.hus giving to an alloyed me- 
tal, the colour and appearance of pure gold. 
Dry parting: 

This process is performed by sulphur, vifhich will 
easily unite with silver, but does not attack gold. 
As this dry parting is even troublesome, as well as 
expensive, it ought not to be undertaken but on a 
considerable quantity of silver alloyed with gold. 
The general procedure is as follows. — The metal 
must be granulated; from 1.8 to 1.5 of it (accord- 
ing as it is richer or poorer in the gold,) is reserv- 
ed, and the rest well mingled with an eighth of 
powdered sulphur; and put into a crucible, keeping 
a gentle fire, that the silver, before melting, may 
be thoroughly penetrated by the sulphur; if the 
fire be hastily urged, the sulphur will be dissipated. 
If to sulphurated silver in fusion, pure silver be 
added, the latter falls to the bottom, and forms 
there a distinct fluid, not miscible with the other. 
The particles of gold, having no affinity with the 
sulphurated silver, join themselves to the pure sil- 
ver wherever they come in contact, and are thus 
ti-ansferi-ed from the former into the latter, more 
or less perfectly, according as the pure silver was 
;nore or less thoroughly diffused tiirough the mix- 
ture. It is for this use that a part of the granulated 
silver was reserved. The sulphurated mass being 
brought in o fusion, and kept melting for neai-ly an 
hour in a covered crucible, one-third of the re- 
served grains is thrown in, which, when meUed, 
the whole is well stin-ed, that the fresh silver may 
be distributed through the mixed to collect the 
gold irom it; this is performed with a wooden rod. 
This is repeated till the whole reserved metal be 
introduced. The sulphurated silver appears, in 
fusion, of a dark brown colour; after it has been 
kept in fusion for a certain time, a part of the sul- 
phur having escaped from the top, the surface be- 
comes white, and some bright drops of silver about 
the size of a pea, are perceived on it. When this j 
happens th:. fire must be immediately discontinued, 
for otherwise more and more of the silver thus | 
losing its sulphur, would subside and mingle with I 
the part at the bottom, in which the gold is col- | 
lected. The whole is poured into an iron rnortar | 
greased find duly heated. The gold diffused at fu-st j 
through the whole mass, is now found collected in I 
St part of it at the bottom, (amounting only to about | 

cv\>ich as was reserved an sulphurated from the I 
mass) by a chisel or hammer; or more perfectly by 
placing the whole mass with its bottom upwards 
in a crucible, the sulphurated part quickly melts, 
leaving, unmelted, that which contains the gold. 
The sulphurated silver is assayed, by keeping a 
portion of it in fusion in an open crucible, till 
the sulphur is dissipated; and then by dissolving 
it in aqua fortis. If it should still be found to con- 
tain gold, it must be subjected to the same treat- 



ment as before. The gold thuf, collected may be 
concentrated into a smaller part by repeating the 
whole process, so that at last it may be jiartey by 
aqua fortis without toe much expense. 



IRON AND STEEL. 

Expeditious mode of reducing iron ore into inallc- 
able iron. 

The way of proceeding is by stamping, washing, 
h.c. the calcine and materials, to sepai-ate the ore 
from extraneous matter; then fusing the prepared 
ore in an open furnace, and instead of casting it, 
to suffer it to remain at the bottom of the furnace 
till it becomes cold. 
JYeTV method of shingling aiid manufncluring iron. 

The ore being fused in a reverberating furnace, 
is conveyed, wliile fluid, into an air-furnace, where 
it is exposed to a strong lieat, till a bluish flame is 
observed on the surface, it is then agitated on the 
surface, till it loses its fusibility, and is collected 
into lumps called loops. These loops are then put 
into another air-furnace, brought to a white or 
welding heat, and then shingled into half-blooms 
or slabes. They are again exposed to the aii'-fur- 
nace, and the half-blooms taken out and forged into 
anconies, bars, half flats, and rodsioriairei while 
the slabes are passed, when of a welding heat, 
through the grooved rollers. In this way of pro- 
ceeding, it matters not whether the iron is pre- 
pared from cold, or hoi-short metal, nor is there 
any occasion for the use of finery, charcoal, coke, 
chafery or hollow-fire; or any blast by bellows, or 
otherwise; or the use of fluxes, in any part of the 
process. 

.approved method of welding iron. 

This consists in the skilful bmidling of the iron 
to be welded; in the use of an extraordinarily large 
forge-hammer, in employing a balUng-finiace, in- 
stead of a hollotvfire ov chafery ; ajid in passing 
the iron, reduced to a melting neat, through grooved 
mill rollers of different shapes and sizes, as re- 
quired. — Repertory of Arts, vol. iii. 

Welding steel, or iron and casi-steel. 

Melt borax in an earthen vessel, and add one- 
tenth of pounded sal ammoniac. When well mixed, 
pour it out on an iron plate, and as soon as it is 
cold, pulverize and mix it with an equal quantity 
of unslaked lime. To proceed to the operation, 
the iron or steel must be first heated to a red heat, 
and the powder strewed over it; the pieces of metal 
thus prepared are to be again put in the fire, and 
raised to a heat considerably lotoer than the usual 
welding one, when it is lo be withdi'awn and well 
beaten by a hammer, till the surfaces are perfectly 
united. 

Common hardening. 

Iron by being heated red hot, and plunged into 
cold water, acquires a great degree of hardness. 
This proceeds from the coldness of the water 
which contracts the particles of the iron into less 
space. 

Case-hardening. 

Case-hardening is a superficial conversion of iron 
into steel by cementation. It is performed on small 
pieces of iron, by enclosing them in an iron box, 
containing burnt leather, bone-dust, or any uther 
phlogistic substance; and exposing them for some 
hours to a red heat. The surface of the iron thus 
becomes perfectly metallized. Iron thus treated 
is susceptible of the finest polish. 

To convert iron into steel by cementalion, 

The iron is fornied into bars of a couvement 
size, and then placed in a cementing furnace, with 
sufficient quantity of cement, ".'hich is composed 
of coais of animal or vegetable substances, iQise<3 



METALLURGY. 



21 



with calcined bones, &c. The following are very 
excellent cements: — 1st, one j)art ofpowdet-ed cliar- 
coal, anil luUf a part of wood-ashes well mix^d to- 
gether; or, 2dly, t\vo parts of charcoal, moderately 
powdi-red, one I'Kit of bones, born, hair, or skins 
of animals, b-n-nt in close vessels to blackness and 
jiowdirtd; and hr.lf a jiart of wood-ashes; mix them 
well togcllier. 1 he bars of iron to be converted 
into steel, are placed iipoii a stratum of cement, 
and covered all over with tlie same; and the vessel 
which contains them closely luted, must be exposed 
to a red heat for 8 or 10 houi's, when the iron will 
be converted isilo steel. 

Steel is prepared from bar iron by fusion; which 
consists of plunging a bar into melted iron, and 
Keeping, it there i'or some time, by which process 
it is converted into good steel. 

All iron wiiich becomes harder by sndden.y 
quenching in cold -water is called steel; and that 
steel whicli in quenching acquires the greatest de- 
gree of hardness in the lowest degree of heat, and 
retains the greatest strengtli in and tifter induration, 
ought to be considered as the best. 

Improved process of liardeniv.i;' s'eeA 
Articles manufactured of steel for the purposes 
of cuHiiig, are, almost without an exception, 
liardened from the anvil; ia othei- words, they are 
taken frttm the forger to the liardener without un- 
dergoiiig any intci'mediate process; and such is the 
accQscoiued I'outine, that the mischief arising has 
escaped observation. The act of forging produces 
H sirong scale oi- coating, whicli is spread over the 
wliole of the blade; p.nd to make the evil still moi-e 
formidable, this scale or coatir!gis unequal in sub- 
stance, varying in proportion to'lhe degree of heat 
communicatee! to the steel in forging; it is, pai-tial- 
ly, almost impenetrable to the action of water 
when innnersed for the purpose of hardening. 
Hence it is that different degrees of liardness pre- 
vail in nearly every i-azor manufactured: this is 
evidently a positive defect; and so long as it conti- 
nues to exist, great difference of temperature must 
exist likewise. Razor-blades not unirequently ex- 
hibit tiie fact here stated in a very striking man- 
ner: what are termed clouds, or parts of unequal 
polish, derive their origin from tliis cause; and 
clearly and distinctly, or rather distinctly though 
not clearly, show how far this partial coating has 
extended, and where the action of the water has 
been yielded to, and where resisted. It certainly 
catHiot be matter of astonishment, that so few im- 
provements have been made in the hardening of 
steel, when the evil her^ complained of so univei-- 
sally obtains, as almost to warrant the supposition 
that no attempt has ever been made to remove it. 
The remedy, however, is easy and simple in the 
extreme, and so evidently efficient in its applica- 
tion, that it cannot but excite surprise, that, in the 
present highly improved state of our manufactures, 
such a communication should be made as a disco- 
very entirely new. 

Instead, therefore, of the customary mode of 
hardening the blade from the anvil, let it be passed 
imrc'^liately from the hands of the forger to the 
grinder; a slight application of the stone will re- 
move the whole ot the scale or coating, and the 
razor will then be properly prepared to undergo 
the operation of hardening with advantage. It will 
be easily ascertained, that steel in this state heats 
in the fire with greater regularity, and that when 
immersed, the obstacles being removed to the im- 
raediate action of the water on the i)ody of the 
steel, the latter becomes equally hard from one ex- 
tremity to tbe other. To this may be added, that, 
as the lowest possible heat at tuldch steel becomes 
hard is indubitably the best, the mode here i-ecom- 
caeiiJed will be found Uie only one by which the 



I process of hai-dening can be effected with a less 
portion of fire than is, or can be, required in any 
I other way. These observations are decisive, and 
j will, in all probability, tend to establish in gene- 
I ral use what cannot but be regarded as a very ini- 
.' portant improvement in the manufactui-ing of edged 
steel instnunents. — Rhodes^ J£,ssay on the Manu- 
facture of a Razor. 

Improved mode of hardetung steel by hammering. 
Gravers, axes, and in fact all steel insti-uments 
that require to be excessively liard, may be easily 
rendered so by heating lhen< to the tempering de- 
gree and hammering them till cold. If a graver, 
it is to be heated to a straw colour, hammered on 
the acute edge of the belly, tempei'ed to the straw 
colour agf.in, ground and whetted to a proper shape. 
A graver thus prepared will cut into steel, without 
previous decarbonization. If tlie point should on 
trial be found not sufficiently hard, tlie operation 
of heating, hammering, and tempering, kc. may 
be repeated as often as necessary. 
Enn-Ush cast steel. 

The finest of steel called I^'gUsh cast steel, is 
prepared by breaking to pieces blistered steel, and 
then melting it in a crucible with a flux composed 
of carbonaceous and viti-ifiable ingredients. The 
vitrifiable ingredient is used only inasmuch as it is 
a fusible bod}-, which flows over the surface of the 
metal in the crucibles, and prevents the access of 
the oxygen of the 'tmosphere. Broken glass ij 
sometimes used for this purpose. 

When thoroughly fused it is cast into ingots, 
which, by gentle heating and careful hammering, 
are tilted into bars. By this process, the steel be 
comes more highly carbonized in proportion to the 
quantity of flux, and in consequence is more brittle 
and fusible than befire. Hence it surpasses all 
other steel in uniformity of texture, hardness and 
closeness of grain, and is the material employed in 
all the finest articles of English cutlery. 

To make edge-tools from cast steel and iron. 

This method consists in fixing a clean piece of 
wrought iron, brought to a welding heat, in the 
centre of a mould, and then pouring in melted steel, 
so as entirely to envelope the iron ; and then foi-g- 
ing the mass into the shape required. 
2'o colour steel blue. 

The steel must be finely polished on its surface, 
and then exposed to an uniform degree of heat. 
Accordingly, there are three Mays of colouring : 
first by a flame producing no soot, as spirit of 
wine; secoiidly, by a hot plate of iron ; and third- 
ly, by wood-ashes. As a very regular degree of 
heat is necessary, wood-ashes for fine work bears 
tlie preference. The work must be covered over 
with them, and carefully watched; when the coloui- 
is sufficiently heightened, the work is perfect. This 
colour is occasionally taken off with a very dilute 
marine acid. 

To distingidsh steel from iron. 

The principal characters by which steel may be 
distinguished from iron, are as follows : — 

1. After being polished, steel appears of a whiter 
light grey hue, without tbe blue cast exhibited by 
iron. It also takes a higher polish. 

2. The hardest steel, when not annealed, apjiears 
granulated, but dull, and without shining fibres. 

3. When steeped in acids tlie harder the steel is, 
of a darker hue is its surface. 

4. Steel is not so much inclined to rust as iron. 

5. In general, steel has a greater specific gra- 
vity. 

6. By being hardened and wrought, it may be 
rendei'ed much more elastic than iron. 

7. It is not attracted so strongly b}' the magnet as 
soft iron. It likewise acquires magnetic projier- 
ties more slowly, but retains tnem longer ; for 



22 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



wliicla reason, stoel is used in making needles foi' 
compasses and artificial magnets. 

8. Steel is ignited sooner, and fuses with less de- 
gree of heat, than malleable iron, which can scarce- 
ly be made to fuse without the addition of powder- 
ed charcoal ; by which it is converted into steel, 
and afterwards into crude iron. 

'J. Polished steel is sooner tinged by heat, and 
tliat with higher colours than iron. 

10. In a calcining heat, it suffers less loss by 
burning, than soft iron does in the same heat, and 
the same time. In calcination a light blue flame 
hovers over the steel, either with or without a sul- 
phureous odour. 

11. The scales of steel are harder and sharper 



than those of iron ; and consequently more fit for 
polishing with. 

12. In a wliite heat, when exposed to the blast 
of the bellows among the coals, it begins to sweat, 
wet, or melt, partly with liglit-coloured and bright, 
and partly with red sparkles, but less crackling 
than those of iron. In a melting heat too, it con- 
sumes faster. 

13. In tlie vitriolic, nitrous, and other acids, 
steel is violently attacked, but is longer in dissolv- 
ing than iron. After maceration, according as it 
is softer or harder, it appears of a lighter, or dark- 
er grey colour ; while iron on the other hand is 
white. 



VAHMISHES. 



To give a drying quality to poppy oil. 

Into 3 lbs. of pure water, put I oz. of sulphate 
of zinc, (white vitriol) and m-x. the whole with 2 
l)0unds of oil of pinks, or poppy oil. Expose this 
mixture in an earthen vessel capable of standing the 
fire, to a degree of heat sufficient to maintain it in 
a slight state of ebullition. When one half or two- 
thirds of the water lias evaporated, pour the whole 
into a large glass bottle or jar, and leave it at rest 
till the oil becomes clear. Decant the clearest part 
by means of a glass funnel, the beak of which is 
stopped with a piece of cork : when the separation 
of the oil from the water is completely effected, 
remove the cork stopper, and supply its place by 
the fore-finger, which must be applied in such a 
manner as to suffer the water to escape, and to re- 
tain only the oil. 

Poppy-oil when prepared in this manner be- 
comes, after some weeks, exceedingly limpid and 
colourless. 

To give a drying quality to fat oils. 

Take of nut-oil, or linseed-oil, 8 lbs. white lead, 
slightly calcined, yellow acetate of lead, (salsatur- 
ni) also calcined, sulphate of zinc, (white vitriol) 
each 1 oz. vitreous oxide of lead, (litharge) 12 oz. 
a head of garlic, or a small onion. 

When the diy substances are pulverized, mix 
them with the garlic and oil, over a fire capable of 
maintaining the oil in a sliglit state of ebullition : 
continue it till the oil ceases to throw up scum, till 
it assumes a reddish colour, and till the head of 
garlic becomes brown. A pellicle will then be 
soon formed on tlie oil, which indicates that tlie 
operation is completed. Take the vessel from the 
fire, and the pellicle, being precipitated by rest, 
will carry with it all the unctuous parts which ren- 
dered the oil fat. When the oil becomes clear, 
separate it from the deposit, and put it into wide- 
moutlied bottles, where it will completely clarify 
itself in time, and improve in quality. 

AnotJier method. — 'I'ake of vitreous oxide of lead, 
(Htliarge) 1^ oz. sulphate of zinc, (white vitriol y 
."i-S of an oz. or 3 gros. linseed, or nut-oil, 16 oz. 
The operation must be conducted as in the preced- 
ing case. 

The choice of the oil is not a matter of indiffer- 
ence. If it be destined for painting articles exposed 
to tiie impression of the external air, or for deli- 
cate painting, nut-oil or poppy-oil will be requi- 
site. Linseed oil is used for coarse painting, and 
that sheltered from the effects of the rain and of the 
sun. 



A little negligence in the management of the fire, 
has often an influence on the colour of the oil, to 
which a drying quality is communicated; in this 
case it is not proper for delicate painting. This in- 
convenience may bT avoided by tying up the dry- 
ing matters in a small bag; but the dose of the lith- 
arge must then be /loubled. The bag must be sus- 
pended by a piece of packthread fastened to a stick, 
which IS made to rest on the edge of the vessel in 
such a manner as to keep tlie bag at the distance 
of an inch from the bottom of the vessel. A pel- 
licle will be formed as in the fii-;-. operation, but it 
will be slower in making its appearance. 

Another. — A drying quality may be communi- 
cated to oil by treating, in a heat capable of main- 
taining a slight ebullition, linseed or nut-oil, to 
each pound of which is added 3 oz. of vitreous ox- 
ide of lead, (litharge) reduced to fine powder. 

The preparation ot floor-cloths, and all paintings 
of large figures or ornaments, in which argillaceous 
colours, such as yellow and red boles, Dutch pi-nk, 
&c. ai-e employed, i-equire ttiis kind of prepara- 
tion, that the desiccation may not be too slow; but 
painting for which metallic oxides are used, such 
as preparations of lead, copper, kc. require only 
the doses before indicated, because these oxides, 
contain a great deal of oxygen, and the oil, by their 
contact, acquires more of a fh-ying quality. 

Another: — Take of nul-oU, 2 lbs. common wa- 
ter, 3 do. sulphate of zinc, (white vitriol) 2 oz,. 

Mix these matters, and subject them to a slight 
ebullition, till little water remains. Decant the 
oil which will pass over with a small quantity of 
water, and separate the latter by means of a fun- 
nel. The oil remains nebulous for sometime; after 
whicii it becomes clear, and seems to be veiy little 
coloured. 

Another. — Take of nut oil, or linseed oil, 6 lbs. 
common water, 4 lbs. sulphate of zinc, 1 oz. garlic, 
one head. 

Mix these matters in a large iron or copper pan; 
then place them over the fire, and maintain the 
mixture in a state of ebullition during the whole 
day; boiling water must frcm time to time be ad- 
ded, to make up for the loss of that by evapora- 
tion. The garlic will assume a brown appearance. 
Take the pan tV -m ihe fire, and having suft'ered a 
deposit to be formed, decant the oil, which will 
clarify itself in the vessel. By this procest. the 
drying oil is rendered sumewliat more coloured, 
it is reserved for delicate colours. 



VARNISHES. 



23 



Rednoxis drying ml. 

Take 10 lbs. of drj'ing nut oil, if the paint is 
destined for external articles, or 10 lbs. of dry- 
ing linseed oil, if for internal, resin, 3 lbs. turpen- 
tine, 6 oz. 

Cause the resin to dissolve the oil by means ot 
a gentle heat. When dissolved and incorporated 
wkh the oil, add the turijentine: leave the varnish 
at I est, by which means it will often deposit por- 
tions of resin and other impurities; and then pre- 
serve it in wide mouthed bottles. It must be used 
I'resh; when suffered to grow old it abandons some 
of its resin. If this resinous oil assumes too much 
consistence, dilute it with a little essence, if in- 
tended for articles sheltered from the bun, or witli 
oil of poppies. 

In Switzerland, where the principal part of the 
mason's woi-k consists of stone subject to crumble 
to pieces, it is often found necessary to give them 
a coating of oil paints to stop the effects of this de- 
composition. This painting has a great ded of 
lustre, and when the last coating is applied with 
resinous oil, it has the effect of a varnish. To 
give it more durability, the first ought to be ap- 
plied exceedingly warm and with plain oil, or oil 
very little charged, with the grey colour, which is 
added to tlie two following. — 

Fat copal varnish. 

Take picked copal, 16 ounces, prepared linseed 
oil, or oil of poppies, 8 do. essence of turpentine, 
J6 do. 

Liquefy the copal in a matrass over a common 
fire, and then add the linseed oil, or oil of poppies, in 
a state of ebullition; when these matters are in- 
corporated, take the matrass from the fire, stir the 
matter till the greatest heat is subsided, and then 
add the essence of turpentine warm. Strain the 
whole, while still warm, through a piece of linen, 
and put the varnish into a wide-mouthed bottle. 
Time contributes towards its clarification; and in 
this manner it acquires a better quality. 
Varnish for -watch cases in imitation of tortoise^ shell. 

Take copal of an amber colour, 6 oz. Venice 
turpentine, H oz. prepared linseed oil, 24 oz. es- 
sence of tuv-pentine, 6 oz. 

It is customary to place the turpentine over the 
copal, reduced to small fragments, in the bottom 
of an earthen or metal vessel, or in a matrass ex- 
poses! to such a heat as to liquefy the copal: but it 
is more advantageous to liquefy the latter alone, 
to add the oil in a state of ebullition, then the tur- 
pentine liquefied, and in the last place the essence. 
If the varnish is too thick, some essence may bi 
added. The latter liquor is a regulator for the 
consistence in the hands of an artist. 

To make a co'owless copal varnish. 

As all copal is not fit for this purpose, in order 
to ascertain such pieces as are good, each must be 
taken separately, and a single drop of ^lure essen- 
tial oil of rosemary, not altered by keeping, must 
be let fall on it. Those pieces which soften at the 
part that imbibes the oil, are good; reduce them 
to powder, which sift tlirough a very fine hair sieve, 
and put it into a glass, on the bottom of wliich it 
must not lie more than a finger's breadth thick. 
Pour upon it essence of rosemary to a similar height; 
fitir the whole for a few minutes, when the copal 
will dissolve into a viscous fluid. Let it stand for 
two hours, and then pour gently on it two or three 
drops of veiy pure alcohol, which distribute over 
the oily mass, by inclining the bottle in different 
directions with a very gentle motion. Repeat this 
operation by litHe and little, till the incorporation 
is effected, and tac varnish reduced to a proper de- 
gree of fluidity. It must then be left to stand a 
lew days, and v hen very clear be decanted otf. 
TLis varnish, th is made without heat, may be ap- 



plied with equal success to pasteboard, wood, and 
metals, and takes a better polish than any other. 
It may be used on paintings, the beauty of which 
it greatly heightens. — Monthly Mag. Oct. 1809. 
Gold coloured copal varnish. 

Take copal in powder, 1 ounce, ess ...ial oil of 
lavender, 2 do. essence of turpentine, 6 do. 

Put tiie essential oil of lavender into a matrass 
of a proper size, placed on a sand-batft heated by 
an Argand's lamp, or over a moderate coal fire. 
Add to the oil while very warm, and at several 
times, tne copal powder, and stir the mixture with 
a stick of wliite wood rounded at the end. \\ hen 
the copal has entirely disappeared, add at thrci; 
different times the essence almost in a state of ebul- 
lition, and keep continually stirring the mixture. 
When the solution is completed, the result will be 
a varnish of a gold colour, exceedingly durable and 
brilliant, but less drying than the preceding. 

Another method.— Tq obtain this varnisli colour- 
less, it will be proper to rectify the essence of the 
shops, which is often higlily coloured, and to give 
it the necessaiy density by exposure to the sun in 
bottles closed with cork stoppers, leaving an inter- 
val of some inches between the stopper and the 
surface of the liquid. A few months are thus suf- 
ficient to communicate to it the required qualities. 
Besides, the essence of the shops is rarely possess- 
ed of that state of consistence, without having at 
the same time a strong amber colour. 

The varnish residting from the solution of copal 
in oil of turpentine, brought to such a state as to 
produce the maximum of solution, is exceedingly 
durable and brilliant. It resists the shock of liai-d 
bodies much better than the enamel of toys, which 
often becomes scratched and wliitened by tlie im- 
pression of repeated friction; it is susceptible also 
of a fine polish. It is applied with the greatest suc- 
cess to philosophical instruments, and tlie paintings 
with which vessels and other utensils of metal are 
decorated. 

Another. — Take copal, 4 ounces, clear turpen- 
tine, 1 oz. 

Put the copal, coarsely pulverized, into a varnish 
pot, and give it the form of a pyramid, which must 
be covered with turpentine. Sliut the vessel close- 
Iv, and placing it over a gentle fire, increase the 
heat gradually that it raay not attack the copal; as 
soon as the matter is well liquefied, pour it upon 
a plate of copper, and when it has resumed its con- 
sistence reduce it to powder. 

Put half an ounce of this powder into a matrass 
with four ounces of the essence of tui-pentine, and 
stir the mixture till the solid matter is entirely dis- 
solved. — Journal de Physique. ' 

Camphorated copal vaimi-sh. 

This varnish is destined for articles which re- 
quire durability, pUableness, and transparency, 
such as the varnished wire-gauze, used in ships in- 
stead of glass. 

■ Take of pulverized copal, 2 oz. essential oil of 
lavender, 6 do. camphor 1-8 of an oz. essence ot 
turpentine, a sufficient quantity, according to the 
consistence require J to be given to the varnish. 

Put into a phial of thin glass, or into a small ma- 
trass, the essential oil ot ^avender and the camphor; 
and place the mixture on a moderately open fire, 
to bring the oil and the camphor to a shglit state 
of ebullition; then add the copal powder in small 
portions, which must be renewed as they disaiipear 
in the liquid. Favour the solution, by continually 
stirring it with a stick of white wood; and when the 
copal is incorporated with the oil, add the essence 
of turpentine boiling; but care must be taken to 
j pour in, at first, only a small portion. 
'; This varnish is little coloured, and by rest it ac- 
I. auires a U'auspareucy which, united to the solidilv 



24 



UlSITVTEKSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



observed in almost every kind of copal varnishes, 
renders it fit to be applied with great success in 
many cases, and particularly in the ingenious in- 
vention of substituting varnished metallic gauze in 
the room of Muscovy tale, a kind of mica, in large 
laminoe, used for the cabin windows of ships, as 
presenting more resistance to the concussion of the 
air during the firing of the guns. Varnished me- 
tallic gauze, of this kind, is manufactured at Rouen. 
Ethereal copal varnish. 

Take of amherry copal, \ ounce, ether, 2 ditto. 

Reduce the copal to a very fine powder, and in- 
troduce it by small portions into the flask which 
contains the etlier; close the flask with a glass or a 
cork stopper^ and having shaken the mixture for 
half an hour, leave it at rest till the next morning. 
In shaking tlie flask, if the sides become covered 
with small undulations, and if the liquor be not ex- 
ceedingly clear, the solution is not complete. In 
this case, add a little ether, ami leave the mixtui'e 
at rest. The varnish is of a wliite lemon colour. 
The largest quantity of copal united to ether may 
be a fourth, and the'least a fifth. The use of copal 
varnish made with ether seems, by the expense at- 
tending it, to be confined to repairing those acci- 
dents which frequently happen to the enamel of 
toys, as it will supply the place of glass to the co- 
loured varnishes employed for mending fractures, 
or to restoring the smooth surface of paintings 
which have been cracked and siiattered. 

The great volatility of ether, and in particular 
its high price, do not allow the application of this 
varnish to be recommended, but for the purpose 
here indicated. It has Ijeen applied to wood with 
complete success, and the glazing it produced unit- 
ed lustre to solidity. In consequence of the too 
speedy evaporation of the liquid, it often boils un- 
der the brush. Its evaporation, however, may be 
retarded, by spreading over the wood a slight stra- 
tum of essential oil of rosemaiy, or lavender, or 
even of •turpentine, which may afterwards be re- 
moved by a piece of hnen rag; what remains is suf- 
ficient to retard t!;e evaporation of the ether. 
Turpentine copal varnish. 

Take of copal, of an amber colour, and in pow- 
der, 1^ ounce, best oil of turpentine, 8 ditto. 

Expose the essence to a balneum mariie, in a 
wide-mouthed matrass with a short neck; as soon 
as the water ot tlie bath begins to boil, throw iuto 
the essence a large pinch of cojial powder, and keep 
the matrass in a state of circular motion. When 
the powder is incorporated with the essence, add 
new doses of it; and continue in this manner till 
you observe that there is formed an insoluble de- 
posit. Then take the matrass from the bath, and 
leave it at rest for some days. Draw off" the clear 
varnish, and filter it through cotton. 

At the moment when tlie first portion of the co- 
pal is thrown into the essence, if the powder pre- 
cipitate itself under the form of lumps, it is need- 
less to proceed any further. This effect arises from 
two causes: either the essence does not possess the 
proper degree of concentration, or it has not been 
suflicietitly deprived of water. Exposure to the 
sun, employing the same matrass, to which a cork 
stopper ought to be added, will give it the quali- 
ties requisite for the solution of the copal. This 
effect will be announced by the disappearance of 
the portion of copal already put into it. 

Another copal x"«r?ws/i.— Take of copal, liquefi- 
ed, 3 oz. essence of turpentine, 20 do. 

Pkice the matrass containing the oil in a balneum 
mariee, and when the water boils add the pulveriz- 
ed copal in small doses. Keep stirring the mixture 
and add no more copal till tlie former be incorpo- 
rated with the oil. If the oil, inconsequence of its 
4>articul!U' dispositiouj can take tip tlu-ee ounces of 



I it, add a little more; tut stop if the liquid becomes 
I nebulous; then leave the varnish at rest. If it be 
i too thick, dilute it with a little warm essence, after 
having heated it in the balneum marite. When 
I cold, filter it through cotton, and preserve it in a 
; clean l)ottle. 

[ This varnish has a good consistence, and is as 
free from colour as the best alcoholic varnish. 
j When extended in one stratum over smooth wood, 
j which has undergone no preparation, it forms a 
very brilliant glazing, which, in the course of two 
days, in summer, acquires all the solidity that may 
be required. 

The facility wliich attends the preparation of this 
varnish l)y the new method here indicated, v/ill ad- 
mit of its being applied to all coloured grounds 
whichrequire solidity, pure whites excepted; paint- 
ed boxes, therefore, and all small articles, colour- 
ed or not coloured, where it is required to make 
the veins appear in all the richness of their tones, 
call fc:" the application of this varnish, which pro 
duces the most beautiful effect, and which is more 
durable than tiu-pentine varnishes composed with 
other resinous substances. 

Fat amber varnish. 
Take of amber coarsely powdered, 16 oz. Venice 
turpentine, or gum lac, 2 do. prepared linseed oil, 
10 do. essence of turpentine, 15 or 16 do. 

The circumstances of the process are the same as 
those prescribed for the preparation of the cam- 
phorated copal varnish. 

1 nis varnish was formerly much used; but it has 
given place, in part, to that of copal, whicli is pre- 
ferred on account of its being less coloured. Watin 
introduces more essence and less linseed oil; ex- 
perience and long practice are the only authority 
on which I recommend the adoption of the present 
formula. 

Amber varnish -with essence of turpentine. 
Take of amber liquefied, and sep.arated from the 
oily portions, which alter its consiscence, 6 or 7 oz. 
Reduce the amber to powder, and if tlie opera- 
tion of potmding forms it into a paste, break it with 
your fingers: then mix it with the essence, and 
heat tlie whole in a balneum marix. It will speedily 
dissolve, and the essence will take up, at the least, 
a fourtii part of its weight of the prepared amber. 
W^hen one coating of it is applied to white smooth 
wood, but without any preparation, it forms a very 
pure and very durable glazing, ■which speedily 
dries, but slower than copal varnish. 

Fat amber or copal varnish. 
Take of amber or copal of one fusion, 4 oz. es- 
sence of turpentine, di-ying linseed oil, ofeaclilOoz. 
Put the wliole into a pretty large matrass, and 
expose it to the heat of a balneum mariaj, or move 
it over the surface of an uncovered chafing-dish, 
but without flame, and at the distance from it of 
two or three inches. When the solution is com- 
pleted, add still a little copal or amber to saturate 
the liquid; then pour the whole on a filter prepar- 
ed with cotton, and leave it to clarify by rest. If 
the varnish is too thick, add a little warm essence 
to prevent the separation of any of the amber. 

This varnish is coloured, but far less so than 
those composed by the usual methods. When 
spread over white wood, v/itliout any preparation, 
it forms a solid glazing, and communicates a slight 
tint to the wood. 

If it is required to charge this varnish with moi'e 
copal, or prepared amber, the liquid must be com- 
posed of two parts of essence for one of oil. 
Compound mastic varnish. 
Take of pure alcohol, 32 oz. purified mastic, 6 
oz. gum sandarac, 3 oz. very clear Venice turpen- 
tine, 3 oz. glass, coarsely pounded, 4 oz. 
Reduce the mastic and sandanc to fine powder 



VARNISHES. 



mix this powder witV fhhe glass, from which the 
finest parts have beer sepsuatcd by means of a hair 
sieve; put all the iagrcdients with alcoliol into a^ 
short-necked matrass, and adapt to it a stick of 
white wood, rounded at the end, and of a length 
proportioned to the height of the matrass, that it 
may be put in motion. Expose tlie matrass in a 
vessel iiiled wiih vi'ater, made at first a little warm, 
and which must afterwards be maintained in a state 
of ebullition lor one or two hours. The matrass 
may he made fast to a ring of strav;. 

\\lien the solution seems to be sufficiently ex- 
tended, add the turpentine, wliich must be kept 
separately in a pl\ial or a pot, and which must be 
melted, by immersing it for a moment in a bal- 
neum marise. The mr.trass must be still left in the 
water for half an hour, at tlie end of whicli it is ta- 
ken off; and the varnish is continually stirred till 
it is somewhat cool. N:_>yt day it is to be drawn 
oft', i.nd iiltered through cotton. By these means 
it will becorae exceedingly limpid. 

Tlie addition of glass may appear extraordinai-j'; 
but this substance divides the parts of the mixture, 
whicli have been made with tlie dry ingredients, 
and it retains the same quality when placed over 
the fire. It therefore obviates with success two in- 
conveniences, wliich are exceedingly troublesome 
to those who compose varnishes. In the first place, 
by dividing ihe niatterc, it facilitates the action of 
the alcohol; and in the second its weight, which 
surpasses that of resins, prevents these resins from 
adhering to the bottom of the matrass, and also the 
coloration acquired by tlie varnish wlien a sand- 
bath is employed, as is commonly the case. 

The application of this varnisb is suited to arti- 
cles belonging to the toilette, such as dressing- 
boxes, cut-paper works, &;c. The following pos- 
sess the same brilliancy and lustre; but they have 
more soIi(<ilj% and ai'e exceedingly drying. 
Camphoruied mastic varnish for paintings. 

Take of mastic, cleaned and washed, 12 oiuices, 
pure turpentine, H oz. camphor, \ oz. white glass, 
pounded, 5 oz. ethereous essence of turpentiae, 36 
ounces. 

Make the varnish according tp the method indi- 
cated for Compound Mastic "V'arnish of the first 
genus. The camphor is employed in pieces, and 
the turpentine is added when the solution of the 
resin is completed. But if the varnish is to be ap- 
plied to old i)aintings, or paintings which liave been 
already varnished, the turpentine may be suppress- 
ed, as this ingredient is here recommended only in 
cases of a first application to new paintings, and 
just freed from wiiite of egg varnish. 

The ethereous essence recommended for varnish, 
is that distilled slowly without any intermediate 
substance, according to the second process already 
given for its rectification. 

Thequestion by able masters, respectingthe kind 
of varnish proper to be employed for paintings, hi.s 
never yet l/cen determined. 

Some artists, wlio have paid particular attention 
to this object, make a mystery of the means they 
employ to obtain the desired effect. Tlie real end 
may be accomplished by giving to the varnish, des- 
tined for painting, pliability and softness, without 
being too solicitous in regard to what may add to 
its consistence or its solidity. The latter qu.ility 
is particularly requisite in varnishes which are to 
be applied to articles much exposed to friction, 
such as boxes, furniture. &c. 

Sharv^s mastic varnish for paintings. 
Bruise the mastic with a rnuller on a jiainter's 
Btoive, which will detect the soft parts, or tears, 
which are to be taken out, and the remainder put 
into a clean bottle with good spii'its of turpentine, 
^twice distilled if you can get it) and dissolve the 



gum by shaking it m your hand for half an hour, 
without heat. V\'^hen"('issolvcd, stram it through 
a piece of calico, and jdace it in a bottle well corked, 
so that the light of tlie sun can strike it, for two 
or thrca weeks, which will cause a mucilaginous 
precipitate, leaving the remainder as transparent 
as water. It may then be carefully decanted into 
another bctlle, and put by for use. The propor- 
tions of gum and alcohol are, mastic, 6 oz. tiu'pen- 
tine, 14 oz. If found on trial to be too thick, thin 
it with turpentine. 

To make paijiter's cream. 

Painters, who have long intervals between their 
periods of labour, are atcustoiBcd to cover the parts 
they have painted with a preparation wliich pre- 
serves the freshness of tlie coh urs, and which they 
can remove when they resume their work. This 
preparation is as follows: 

Take jf veiy clear nut oil, 3 ounces, mastic in 
tears, pulverized, ^ oz. sal saturni, in powder (ace- 
tate of lead,) 1-3 of an ounce. 

Dissolve the mastic in oil, over a gentle fire, and 
pour the mixture into a marble mortar, over the 
pounded salt of lead; stir it with a wooden pestle, 
and add water in small quantities, till the matter 
assume the appearance and consistence of cream, 
and refuse to admit more water. 
Sandarac varnish. 

Take of gum sandarac, 8 oz. pounded mastic, 2 
oz. clear turpentine, 4 oz. pounded glass, 4 oz. al- 
cohol, 32 oz. Mix and dissolve as befoie. 
Compound sandarac varnish. 

Take of pounded copal of an amber colour, once 
liquefied, 3 oz. gum sandarac, 6 oz. mastic, cleaned, 
3 oz. clear turpentine, 2^ oz. pounded glass, 4 oz. 
pure alcohol, 32 oz. Mix these ingredients, and 
pursue the same method as above. 

This varnish is destined for articles subject to 
friction, such as furniture, chairs, fan-sticks, mould- 
ings, h.c. and even metals; to which it may be ap- 
plied with success. The sandarac gives it great 
durability'. 

Camphorated sandarac varnish for cut-Jjaper 
-vorks, dressing-boxes, &c. 

Take of gum sandarac, 6 oz. gum elemi, 4 oz. 
gum animi, 1 oz. camphor, ^ oz. pounded glass, 4 
oz. ])ure alcoliol, 32 oz. 

Make the varnish according to the directions al- 
reait/ given. The soft resins must be pounded 
with the dry bodies. The camphor is to be added 
in ])ieces. 

jlnother. — Take of gallipot, or white incense, 6 
oz. gum animi, gum elemi, each 2 oz. pounded 
glass, 4 oz. alcohol, 32 oz. 

Make the varnish with the precautions indicated 
for the compound mastic varnish. 

The two last varnishes are to be used for ceil- 
ings and wainscots, coloured or not coloured: they 
may even be employed as a covering to parts paint- 
ed with strong colours. 
Spiritons sandarac varnish for ■wainscottivg small 

articles of furniture, balustrades, and inside rail- 
ing. 

Take gum sandarac, 6 oz. shell lac, 2 oz. colo- 
phonium, or resin, white glass pounded, clear tur- 
pentine, each 4 oz. pure alcohol, 32 oz. 

Dissolve the varnish according to the directions 
given for compound mastic varnish. 

This varnish is sufficiently durable to be applied 
to articles destined to daily and continual use. Var- 
nishes composed with copal ought, however, in 
these cases to be preferred. 

Another, — There is another composition which, 
without forming part of the compound varnishes, 
is employed with success feu- giving a polish and 
lustre to furniture made ot w^ood; wax forms the 
basis of it. 



26 



UNRTSRSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



Many cabinet-makers are contented with waxing 
oominoii turniture, such as tables, chests of drawers, 
&c. This covering;, hv means oFrepeated frietio'n, 
soon acquires a polish and transyjarency which re- 
.iinble those of varnish. Waxiisg seems to possess 
qualities pecijiar to itself; but, like varnish, it is 
attended with inconveniences as well as advantages. 

Varnish supplies better the part of glazing; it 
gives a lustre to the wood which it covers, and 
heightens the colours of that destined, in particular, 
for delicate articles. These ."eal and valuable ad- 
vantages are counterbalanced by its want of consis- 
tence: it yields too easily to the shrinking or swell- 
ing of the wood, and rises in scales or splits, on 
being exposed to the slightest shock. These acci- 
dents can be repaired only by new strata of varnish, 
whicli I'cnder application to the varnisher neces- 
sary, and occasion trouble and expense. 

Waxing stands shocks; but it does not possess, 
in the same degree as varnish, the pro])erty of 
giving lustre to the bodies on vhicli it is applied, 
and of heightening tlieir tints. The lustre it com- 
municates is dull, but this inconvenience is com- 
pensated by tiie facility with wliich any accident 
that may liave altered its polish car be repaired, 
by rubbing it with a piece of tine cork. There are 
some circumstances, therefore, under which the 
application of wax ougt>t to be preferred to that of 
varnish. This seems to l)e the case in particular 
with tables of walnut-tree wood, exposed to daily 
use, chairs, moukhngs, and for all suiall articles 
subject to constant employment. 

J3ut as it is of importance to make the stratum of 
wax as thin as possible in order that the veins of 
the wood may be more apparent, tiie following 
process will be acceptable to the readei". 

]\Ielt over a moderate fire, in a very clean ves- 
sel, two ounces of white oryellow wax; and, when 
liquefied, add four ounces of good essence of tur- 
pentine. Stir the whole until it is entirely cool, 
and the result will be a kind of pomade fit for wax- 
ing furniture, and which must be rubbed over them 
according to the usual method. The essence of 
turpentine is soon dissipate,!; but the wax, which 
by its mixture is reduced to a state of very great 
division, may be extendci witli more ease, and in 
a more uniform manner. The essence soon pene- 
trates the pores of the v/ood, calls forth the colour 
of it. causes the wax to adhere better, and tht lus- 
Ir-- \i hie h thence rest, Its is e(iual to that of varnisli, 
'viliiout liaviiig any of its iuconveniences. 
Cofovred variusu J'lV viuiins, and otJier stringed in- 

■ttruments, also fur plum tree, mahogany and 

rose-wood. 

Take gum sandarac, 4 oz. seed lac, 2 oz. mastic, 
Benjamin in tears, each 1 oz. pounded glass, 4 oz. 
Venice turpentine, ii oz. pure alcohol, 3'2 oz. 

The gum sandarac and lac render this varnish 
durable; it may be coloured with a Utile saifron or 
dragon's blood. 

French polish. 

The varnish being prepared, (shell-lac) the 
article to be polished, being hnisheil oil .is smooth- 
ly as possible with glass-[iaper, and your rubber 
being prepared as directed below, proceed to the 
operation as follows. The varnish, in a narrow- 
necked bottle, is to be applied to tiie ndrld.e of the 
fiat face of the rubber, by laying the ruliber on the 
mouth cf the bottle and siiaking up the varnish, 
once ; as by tliis means the rubber will inibibe the 
Droper quantity to varnish a considerable extent of 
surface. The rubber is then to be enclosed in a 
soft linen cloth, doubled ; the rest of the cloth be- 
ing gathered up at the back of the rubber to form a 
handle. Moisten the face of the linen with a little 
rav linseed oil, applied with the finger to the 
mieUlle ofit. Flaciiigyoi^r workoppositethelight. 



pass your rubber q^aclcly and lightly over its surface 
until the varnish becomes dry, or nearly so— charge 
your rubber as before with varnish, (omitting the 
oil) and repeat the rubbing, until three coats are 
laid on, when a little oil may be applied to the inib- 
ber, and two coats more given to it. Proceeding 
in this way, until the varnish has acquired some 
thickness, wet the inside of the linen cloth, before 
applying the varnish, with alcohol, and rub quick- 
ly, lightly and uniformly the whole surface. Last- 
ly, wet the linen cloth with a little oil and alcohol 
without varnish, and rnb as before till dry. 

To make the rubber. 
'Roll up a strip of thick woollen cloth which has 
been torn oft", so as to form a soft elastic edge. It 
should form a coil, from one to three inches in di- 
ameter according to the size of the work. 
Fat varnish of a gold colour. 

Take ambei-, 8 oz. gum lac, 2 oz. drying linseed 
oil, 8 oz. essence of turpentine, 16 oz. 

Dissolve separately the gum lac, and then add' 
the amber, prepared and pulverized, with the lin- 
seed oil and essence very warm. When the whole 
hag lost a ]).art of its heat, mix, in relative propoi'- 
tions, tinctures of annatto, of teri'a inerita, gum gut- 
tK, and di-agon's blood. This varnish, when ap- 
plied to white metals, gives them a gold colour. 
Fat turpentine or golden varnish, being a mordamit 
to gold and dark colours. 

Take boiled linseed oil, 16 oz. Venice turpen- 
tine, S oz. Naples yellow, 5 oz. 

Heat the oil with the turpentine ; and mix the 
Naples yellow pulverized. 

Naples yellow is an oxide of lead, the composi- 
tion of which will be g'ven v/hen we come to treat 
of colouring substances. It is substituted here for 
resins, on account of its drying qualities, and in 
particular of its colour, which resembles that of 
gold ; great use is made of the varnish in applying 
gold leaf. 

The yellow, however, may be omitted when this 
species of varnish is to be solid and coloured co- 
verings. In this case an ounce of litharge to each 
poun<i of composition may be substituted in its 
stead, wiiliout lhi?i mixture doing any injury to the 
colour which is to constitute the ground, [la teinte 
dure). 

To make turner's varnisli for box^iood. 

Take seed lac, 5 oz. gum sandarac, 2 oz. gum 
elemi, 1^ oz. Venice turjjentine, 2 oz. pounded 
glass, 5 oz. pure alc(>liol, 24 oz. 
" [For a mode of bleaching seed or shell-lac for 
varnishes see " IJleaching. " — Ax. Ed.j 

Tiie artists of St Glauile do not a.l employ this 
formula, which requires to be corrected on account 
of its too great dryness, which is here lessened by 
the turpentine and gum elenii. This composition 
is secured from crac.ing, whicli disfigui'es these 
boxes after they have been used for some months. 

Jlnotlier. — Other turners employ the gum lac 
united to a little elemi and turi)entine digested 
some months in pure alcohol exposed to the suu. 
If this metiiod be followed, it will be proper to 
substitute for the sandarac the same quantity of 
gum lac reduced to powder, and not to add the tur- 
pentine to the alcohol, which ought to be exceed- 
ingly pure, till towards the end of the infusion. 

Solar infusion requires care and attention. Ves- 
sels of a sufficient size to allow the spirituous va- 
pours to circulate freely ought to be employed, be- 
cause it is necessary that the vessels should be 
closely shut. Without this precaution the spirits 
would become, weakened, and abaniion the resin 
which they laid hold of during the first day's expo- 
sure. This perfect obituration will not admit of 
the vessels being too full. 

In general the varnishes applied to articles whicb 



VARNISHES. 



27 



may be put into the lathe acquire a great ileal of 
brilliancy by polishing, a piece of woollen cloth is 
sufficient for the operation. If turpentine predo- 
minates too much in these compositions the polish 
does rot retain its lustre, because the heat of the 
hands is capable oF softening the surface of the 
vaiTiish, and in this state it readily tarnishes. 
To vaniish dressing-boxes. 

The most of spirit of wine varnishes are destined 
for covering preliminary preparations, which have 
a certain degree of lustre. They consist of ce- 
ment, coloui-ed or not coloured, charged with land- 
scapes and figures cut out in paper, which proluces 
an effect under the transparent varnish : most of 
the dressing-boxes, and other small articles of the 
same kind, are covered with this particular com- 
position, which, in general, consists of three or 
roi".r coatings of Spanish white pounded in water, 
and mixed up with parchment glue. The first 
coating is smoothed with pumice-stone, and then 
jiolished with a piece of new linen and water. The 
coating in this state is fit to receive the destined 
colour, after it has been ground with water, and 
mixed with parchment glue diluted with \vater. 
-'he cut figures with which it is to be embellished, 
are then applied, and a coaling of gum or fisii- 
glue is spread over them, to prevent the varnish 
fi'om penetrating lo the preparation, and from spoil- 
ing the figures. The operation is finished by ap- 
plying three or four coatings of varnish, which, 
wfien diy, are polished with tripoli and water, by- 
means of a piece of cloth. A lustre is then given 
to the surface with starch and a bit of doe-skin, or 
very soft clcth. 

Gallipot Tarnish. 

Take of gallipot, or white incense, 12 oz. white 
glass, pounded, 5 oz. Venice turpentine, 2 oz. es- 
sence of turpentine, 32 oz. Make the varnish af- 
ter the white incense lias been pounded with the 
glass. 

Some authors recommend mastic or sandarac in 
the room ot gallipot ; but the varnish is neither 
more beautiful nor more durable. When the co- 
lour is ground with the preceding varnish, and 
mixed up with the latter, which, if too thick, is 
thinned with a little essence, and which is applied 
immediately, and without any sizing, to boxes and 
other articles, the coatings acquire sufficient 
strength to resist the blows of a raallet. But if 
the varnish be ap]>!ied to a sized colour, it 
must be covered with a varnish of the first or se- 
cond genus. 

Vaiviish, for electrical purposes. 

Dissolve the bfst red sealing-wax in alcohol — 
two or three coats will make a complete covering, 
it may he applied to wood or glass. 

.Mastic gallipot varnish, for giinding colours. 

Take of new gallipot, or white incense, 4 oz. 
mastic, 2 oz. Venice turpentine, 6 oz. pounded 
glass, 4 oz. essence of turpentine, 32 oz. 

When the varnish is made with the precautions 
already indicated, add prepared nut oil or linseed 
oil, two ounces. 

Tlie .matters ground with this varnish dry more 
slowly; they are then mixed up with the following 
varnish, if it be for common painting, or with par- 
ticular varnishes destined foi- colours and for 
grounds. 

Lacquer for brass. 

Take of seed lac, 6 oz. amber or copal, ground 
on porphyry, 2 oz. dragon's hlood, 40 grains, ex- 
tract of red sandal wood, oljtained by water, ,30 
grains, oriental sattron, 36 grains, pounded glass, 
4 oz. very jiure alcohol, 40 oz. 

To apply this varnish to articles or ornaments of 
brass, exjiose them to a gentle heat, and dip them 
into ^'ivruish Two or tliree coatings may be ap- 



plied in this manner, if necessarv. The varnisii is 
durable, and has a beautiful colour. Articles var- 
nished in this maimer, may be cleaned with watei 
and a bit of dry rag. 

Lacquer for pliilosophical instruments. 
This lacquer or varnish is destined to change, or to 
modify the coloiu- of those bodies to whicli it is ap- 
plied. 

I'ake of gum guttse, ^ oz. gum sandarac, gum 
elemi, each 2 oz. dragon's blood, of the best qu.ali- 
ty, 1 oz. seed lac, I oz. terra merita, | oz. orien- 
tal saffron, 2 gr. pounded gli.ss, 3 oz. pure alco- 
I hoi, 20 oz. 

The tincture of satfron and of terra merita is 
first obtained by infusing them in alcohol for twen- 
ty-four hours, or exposing them to the heat of the 
sun in summer. The tincture must be strained 
through a piece of clean linen cloth, and ought to 
be strongly squeezed. Thistincture is poureu over 
the dragon's blood, the gum elemi, the seea lac, 
and the gum guttce, all pounded and mixed with 
the glass. The varnish is then made according to 
the directions before given. 

It may be applied with great advantage to philo- 
sophical instruments: the use of it might be ex 
tended also to various cast or moulded articles with 
which furniture is ornamented. 

If the dragon's blood be of the first quality, it 
may give too high a colour; in this case the dose 
may be lessened at pleasure, as well as that of the 
other colouring matters. 

It is with a similar kind of varnish that the art- 
ists of Geneva give a golden orange colour to the 
small nails eniployed to ornament watch cases; 
but they keep the process very secret. A beautiful 
bright colour migb* be easily communicated to 
this mixture; but they prefer the orange colour 
produced by certain compositions, the preparation 
of which has no relation to that of variiish, and 
which has been successfuUj^ imitated with saline 
mixtures, in which orpiment is a principal ingre- 
dient. The nails are heated before they are im- 
mersed in the varnish, and they are then spread 
out on sheets of dry paper. 

Gold-coloured lacquer for brass watch cases, watch 
keys, &c. 

Take of seed lac, 6 oz. amher, gum guttse, each 
2 oz. extract of red sandal wood in water, 24 grains, 
dragon's blood, 60 grains, oriental saffron, 3S 
grains, pounded glass, 4 oz. pure alcohol, 36 oz. 

Grind the amber, the seed lac, gum guttie, and 
dragon's blood on a piece of poi"j)hyry; then 
mix them with the pounded glass, and add the al- 
cohol, after forming with it an infusion of the saf- 
fron and an extract if the sandal wood. The var- 
nish must then be completed as before. The me- 
tal articles destined to be covered by this varnish 
are heated, and those which will admit of it, are 
iramerseil in packets. The tint of the varnish may 
be varied by modifying the doses of the colouring 
substances. 

Lacquev of a less drying quality. 

Take of seed lac, 4 oz. sandarac, or mastic, 4 
oz. dragon's blood, A oz. terra merita, gumgutts, 
each 30 grains, pounded glass, 5 oz. clear turpen- 
tine, 2 oz. eosence of turpentine, 32 oz. 

Extract by infusion the tincture of the colouring 
substances, and then add the resinous bodies ac- 
cording to tlie directions for compound mastic var- 
nish. 

Lacquer or varnishes of this kind are called 
changing, because, when applied to metals, such a 
copper, brass, or hammered tin, or to ^^ooden 
boxes and other furniture, they communicate to 
them a more agreeable colour. Besides, by their 
contact with tlie common metals, tlie)' ac(iuire a 
lusti'e which approaches that of the piecious in«- 



28 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



tals, a«d to which, in consequence of peculiar in- 
trinsic qualities or certain laws of convention, a 
much greater value is attached. It is by means nt 
these changing varnishes, that artists are able to 
communicate to their leaves of silver and copper, 
those shining colours observed in foils. This pro- 
duct of industry becomes a source of prosperity to 
the manufacturers of buttons and works formed 
■with foil^ which in the hands of the jeweller con- 
tributes with so much success to produce that I'e- 
fiection of the rays of light which doubles the lus- 
tre and sparkling quality of precious stones. 

It is to varnish of this kind that we are indebted 
for the manufactory of gilt leather, which, taking 
refuge in England, has given i)lace to that of papier 
machee, which is employed for the decoration of 
palaces, theatres, &c. 

In the last place, it is by the effect of a foreign 
lint, obtained from the cslouring part of saffron, 
that the scales of silver disseminated in confection 
trhyacinthe reflect a beautiful gold colour. 

The colours transmitted by different colouring 
substances, require tones suited to the objects for 
which they are destined. The artist has it in his 
own power to vary them at pleasure, by the ad- 
tlition of annatto to the mixtui-e of dragon's blood, 
saffron, &c. or some changes in the doses of the 
mode intended to be made in colours. It is there- 
fore impossible to give limited forraulx. 
To make lacquers of various tints. 

There is one simple metliod by which artists 
may be enabled to obtain all the different tints they 
require. Infuse separately 4 ounces of gum gutta; 
in 32 ounces of essence of turpentine, and 4 ounces 
of dragon's blood, and an ounce of annatto also in 
separate doses of essence. Tliese infusions maj' be 
easily made in the sun. After fifteen days' expo- 
sure pour a certain quantity of these liquors into a 
llask, and by varying the doses different shades of 
colour will be obtained. 

These infusions may be employed also for chang- 
ing alcoholic varnishes; but in this case the use of 
saffron, as well as that of red sandal wood, which 
does not succeed with essence, will soon give the 
tone necessary for imitati-ig witU other tinctures 
the colour of gold. 

Mordant varnish for g-ildiuff. 

Take of mastic, I ounce, gum saudarac, 1 do. gum 
guttse, \ do. turpentine, ^ do. essence of turpentine, 
6 do. 

Some artists who make use of mordants, substi- 
tute for the turpentine an ounce of the essence of 
avender, which renders this composition still less 
drying. 

In general, the composition of mordants admits 
of modifications, according to the kind of work for 
which they are destined. The application of them, 
however, is confined chiefly to gold. When it is 
required to fill up a design with gold leaf on any 
ground whatev^i', the composition, which is to serve 
as the means of union between the metal and the 
ground, ought to be neither too thick nor too fluid; 
because both these circumstances are equally in- 
jurious to delicacy in the strokes; it will be re- 
quisite also that the composition should not dry 
till the artist has completed his design. 
Other mordants. 

Some prepare their mordants with Jew's pitch 
and drying oil diluted with essence of turpentine. 
They employ it for gilding pale gold, or for bronz- 
e's- ^ . 

Other artists imitate the Chinese, and mix with 

their mordants colours proper for assisting the tone 
which they are desirous of giving to the gold, such 
as yellow, red, &c. 

Otliers employ merely fat varnish, to which they 
add a little red oxideof lead (minium). 



Others make use of thick glue, in which they 
dissolve a little honey. This is what they call ba(- 
ture. When they are desirous of heightening the 
colour of the gold, they employ this glue, to which 
the gold leaf adheres exceedingly well. 

Another. — The qualities of the following are fit 
for every kind of application, and pai-ticularly to 
metals. Expose boiled oil to a strong heat in a 
p;in: when a black smoke is disengaged from it, 
set it on fire, and extinguish it a few moments aftei 
by putting on the cover of the pan. Then pour the 
matter still warm into a heateil bottle, and add to 
it a little essence of turpentine. This mordant 
dries very speedily; it has body and adheres to, 
and strongly retains, gold leaf, when applied to 
wood, metals, and other substances. 
To prepare a composition for making colourea . 

dratvings and prints resemble paiiitings in oil. 

Take of Canada balsam, 1 ounce, sj>irit of tur- 
pentine, '2 ounces: mix them togetiier. Before 
tills composition is applied, the drawing or print 
should be sized with a solution of isinglass in wa- 
ter, and when dry, apply the varnish with a camel 
hair Lmish. 

A varnish to colour baskets. 

Take either i-ed, black, or white sealing wax, 
which ever colour you wish to make: to every 2 
ounces of sealing wax, add 1 ounce of spirit of 
wine: pound the wax line, then sift it through a 
fine lawn sieve, till j'ou have made it extremely 
tine; put it into a large phial with the spirit ot 
wine, shake it, let it stand near the iire 48 hours, 
shaking it often; tlien, with a little, brush the 
baskets ail over with it; let them dry, and do them 
over a second time. 

To prepare anti-attrition. 

According to the specifua'.ion of llie ])atent, this 
mixture consists of one hiiii<li-ed WL'i.;;ht of plum- 
bago, to four hundred of hog's lard, or other 
grease; the two to be well incorpoi-ated. The 
application is to prevent the eiiects of fiittion in 
all descriptions of engines or machii'os; and a suf- 
ficient quantity must be rubbed over the surface of 
the axle, spindle, or other part where the beai-- 
ing is. 

Vaimish for pales and coarse ivood -work. 

Take any quantity of tar, and grind it with as 
mucii Spanish brown as it will bear, without ren- 
dering it too thick to be used as apaint or varnish, 
and then spread it on the pales, or other wood, as 
soon as convenient, for it quickly hardens by 
keeping. 

This mixture must be laid on the wood to be 
varnished by a large brush, or house painter's 
tool; and the work should then be kept as free 
from dust and insects as possible, till the varnish 
be thorougiily dry. It will, if laid on smooth 
wood, have a very good gloss, and is an excellent 
preservative of it against moisture; on which ac- 
count, as well as its being cheaper, it is far pre- 
feralile to painting, not only for pales, but for wea- 
ther boarding, and all other kinds of woodwork 
for grosser purposes. Where the glossy brown 
colour is not liked, the work may be made of a 
greyish brown, by mixing a small proportion ot 
white lead, or whiting and ivory black, with the 
Spanish brown. 

A black varnish for old straiv or chip hats. 

Take of best black sealing wax, ^ an ounce, 
rectified spirit of wine, 2 ounces; powder the seal- 
ing wax, and put it with the spirit of wine, into a 
four ounce phial; digest them in a sand heat, ot 
near a fire, till the wax is dissolved; lay it oc 
warm with a fine soft hair-brush, l)efore a fire or 
in the sun. It gives a good stiffness to old straw 
hats, and a beautiful gloss, equal to new, suid re- 
sists wet. 



VARNISHES. 



29 



To paint sail doth, &c. so as to be pliant, durable, 
and impfi vioiis to water. 

This process, which is extracted from the 
Transactions of the Societij of Arts, is now uni- 
versally practiocii iu the public dock-yards. 

The paint usually Inid upon cr.nvas hardens to 
such a degree as to crack, ar.l eventually to break 
the canvas, which renders it unserviceable in a 
short time: but the canvas painted in the new 
manner is so superior, that all canvas used in the 
navy is thus prepared; and a saving of a guinea is 
rnade in every one hundred square yards of can- 
vas so painted. 

The old mode of painting canvas was to wet 
the canvas, and prime it with Spanish brown; 
then to give it a second coat of a chocolate colour, 
made by miring Spa..ish brown and black paint; 
and, lastly, to finish it with black. 

The new method is to grind 96 lbs. of English 
ochre with boiled oil, ard to add 16 lbs. of black 
paint, which mixture forms an indifferent black. 
A pound of yellow soap, dissolved in 6 pints of wa- 
ter over the rire, is mixed, while hot, ^^ith the 
paint. This composition is then laid upon the can- 
vas (without being wetted, as in the usual way,) 
as stiff 8 T can conveniently be done with the brush, 
so as to form a smooth surface; the next day, or 
still better, on flie second day, a second coat of 
ochre and black (without any, or but a very small 
portion of soap) is laid on, and allowing this coat 
an intermeuiate day for drying, the canvas is then 
finished with black paint as usual. Three days 
being then allowed for it to dry and harden, it 
does not stick together when taken down, and 
folded in cloths containing 60 or 70 yards each; 
and canvas finished entirely with the composition, 
leaving it '^o dry one day between each coat, will 
not stick together, if laid in quantities. 

It has been ascertained from actual trials, that 
the solution of yellow soap is a preservative to red, 
yellow, and black paints, -when ground in oil and 
put into casks, as they acquire no improper hard- 
ness, and dry in a remarkable manner when laid 
on with the brush, without the use of the usual 
drying articles. 

It is surprising that the adoption of soap, which 
is so well known to be miscible with oily substan- 
ces, or at least, the alkali of which it is composed, 
has not already been brought into use in the com- 
position of oil colours. ■ 

Coloured composition for rendering Unen and cloth 
impenetrable to -water. 

Begin by washing the stuff with hot water; then 
drj- and rub it between the hands until such time 
as'it becomes perfectly supple; afterwards spread 
it out by drawing it into a frame, and give it, with 
the aid of a brush, a first coat composed of a mix- 
ture of 8 quarts of boiling linseed oil, 15 grammes 
of calcined amber and acetate of lead, (of each 7^ 
qrammes) to which add 90 grammes of lamp- 
black. For the second coat use the same ingre- 
dients as above, except the calx of lead. This coat 
will give a few hours, according to the season; af- 
terwards take a dry plaisterer's brush, and rulj the 
stuff strongly with it, when the hair, by this opera- 
lion, will become very smooth. The third and 
last coat will give a perfect and durable jet black. 

Or rather, take 12 quarts of boiling linseed oil, 
2i0 grammes of amber, 15 grammes of acetate of 
l.ead, 7^ sulphate of zinc, 15 Prussian blue, and 
7^ verdigris; mix them very fine with a little oil, 
and adu 120 grammes of lamp-black. These coats 
arc used at discretion, as is done with painting.— 
^tnnales del'Indiis, 1S21. 
To ihickefn Unen cloth fur screens and bed testers. 

Grind whiting witli zinc, and to prevent its 
ci-acking, add a IXtle honey to it; then lake a soft 



brush, and lay it upon the cloth, and so do two or 
three times, suffering it the meanwhile to dry be- 
tween layings on, and for the last laying, smooth 
it over with Spanish white, ground witli linseed 
oil, the oil being first heated, and mixed with a 
small quantity of the litharge of gold, tlie better td 
endure the weather, and so it will be lasting. 
Common ivax, or vainished cloth. 

The manufacture of this kind of cloth is very 
simple. The cloth and linseed oil are the prin?>- 
pal articles required for the cstabiishraent. Com- 
mon canvas, of an open and coarse texture, is ex- 
tended on large frames, placed under sheds, the 
sides of which are open, so as to afford a free pas- 
sage to the externnl air. The manner in which 
the cloth is fastened to these frames is as follows 
it is fixed to each siJe of the frame by hooK.' 
which catch the edge of the cloth, and by pieces 
of strong packthread passing through holes at the 
other exu-eraity of the liooks, which are tied round 
moveable pegs placed in the lower edge of the 
frame. The mechanism by which the strings of a 
violin are stretched orunstretched, will give soma 
idea of the arrangement of the pegs employed foi 
extending the cloth in this apparatus, liy these 
means the cloth can l)e easily stretched cr relaxed, 
when the oily varnish has exercised an action on 
its texture in tae course of the operation. Tht 
whole being tlius arranged, a liquid paste made 
with drying oil, which may be varied at pleasure, 
is applied to the cloth. 

To make liquid paste iviih drying oil. 

Mix Spanish white or tobacco-pipe clay, or any 
otiier argillaceous matter, with water, and leave i( 
at rest some hours, which will be sufficient to sepa- 
rate the argillaceous parts, and to produce a sedi- 
ment. Stir the sediment with a broom, to com- 
plete the division of the earth ; and after it has 
rested some seconds, decant the turbid water into 
an earthen or wooden vessel. By this process the 
earth will be separated from the sand and othe* 
foreign bodies, which are precipitated, and which 
must be thrown away. If the earth has been 
washed by the same procesf, on alar;;; scale, it is 
divided by kneading it. The supernatant water it 
tin-own aside, and the sediment placed in sieves, 
on pieces of cloth, where it is suffered to drain: it 
is then mixed up with oil rendered drying by a 
large d&se of litharge, that is about a fourth of tha 
weight of the oil. The consistence of tliin paste 
being given to the mixture, it is spread over the 
cloth by means of an iron spatula, the length ol 
which is equid to that of the breadth of the clothe 
This spatula performs the part of a knife, and 
pushes forward the excess of matter above the 
quantity sufficient to cover the cloth. When the 
first stratum is dry, a second is applied. The ine- 
qualities produced by the coarseness of the cloth, 
or by an unequal extension of the paste, are 
smoothed down with pumice-stone. The pumice- 
stone is reduced to powder, and rubbed over the 
cloth with a piece of soft serge or cork dipped in 
water. The cloth must then be well washed in 
■water to clean it; and after it is dried, a varnish ot 
gum lac dissolved 'r.i linseed oil boiled with tur- 
pentine, is to be applied to it. 

This preparation produces yellowish varnished 
cloth. When wanted black, mix lamp-black with 
the Spanish white, or tobacco-pipe clay, which 
forms the basis of the liquid paste. Various 
shades of grey may be obtained, according to the 
quantity ot lamp-black which is added. Umber, 
Cologne earth, and different ochry argillaceoua 
earths, may be used to vary the tints, without 
causing any addition to the expense. 

To prepare fine printed varnished cloths. 

The process thus described for manufacturing 

C 8 



30 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



common varnished and polished cloths, may serve 
o give some idea of that employed for making 
fine cloths of the same kind, decorated with a co- 
lom-ed impression. The manufactories of Ger- 
many have varnished cloths embellished with 
large and small subjects, figures, and landscapes, 
well executed, and which are destined for cover- 
ing furniture. subjected to daily use. 

This process, which is only an improvement of 
tne former, requires a finer paste, and cloth of a 
more delicate texture. The stratum of paste is 
applied in the same manner, and when dry and 
polished, the cloth is taken from the frame and re- 
moved to the painter's table, where the art of the 
cblourist and designer is displayed under a thou- 
sand forms; and, as in that of printed cottons, ex- 
hibits a i-ichness of tints, a:,d a distribution of sub- 
'ects, which discover taste, and insure a ready sale 
for the articles manufactured. 

The processes, however, employed in these two 
arts to extract the colouring parts are not the same. 
In the art of cotton-printing the colours are ex- 
tracted by tlie bath, as in that of dyeing. Id print- 
ing varnished cloths, the colouring parts are the 
result of the union of drying oil mixed with var- 
nish; and the different colours employed in oil 
painting or painting in varnish. 

The varnish applied to common oil cloth is com- 
posed of gum lac and drying linseed oil; but that 
destined for printed varnislied clotlis requires 
some choice, both in regard to the oil and the re- 
sinous matter which gives it consistence. Pre- 
pared oil of pinks and copal form a varnish very 
little coloui-ed, pliable, and solid. 

To prepare vaiviished silh. 

Varnished silk, for making umbrellas, capots, 
coverings for hats, &c. is prepared in the same 
manner as the varnislied and polished cloths al- 
ready described, but with some variation in tiie 
liquid paste or varnish. 

If the surface of the silk be pretty large, it is 
made fast to a wooden frame furnished with hooks 
end moveable pegs, such as that used in the manu- 
facture of common varnished cloths. A soft paste, 
composed of linseed oil boiled with a fourth part 
of litharge; tobacco pipe clay, dried and sifted 
through a silk-sieve, 16 parts; litharge ground on 
porphyry with water, dried and sifted in tlie same 
manner, 3 parts; and lamp-black, 1 pait. This 
paste is then spread in a uniform manner over 
the surface of the silk, by^nieans of a long knife, 
having a handle at each 'extremity. In summer, 
•■wenty-four hours are sufficient for its desiccation. 
When dry, the knots produced by the inequalities 
of the silk are smoothed with pumice-stone. This 
operation is performed with water, and when 
finished, the surface of the silk is washed. It is 
then suffered to diy, and flat copal varnish is ap- 
plied. 

If it be intended to polish this varnish, ap» tly a 
second stratum; after which polish it with « ball 
of cloth and very fine tripoli. The varnishe I silk 
thus made, is very black, exceedingly pliable, and 
has a fine polish. It may be rumpled a th'-usand 
ways without retaining any fold, or even t£>e mark 
of one. It is light, and thereby proper for cover- 
ings to hats, and fOr making cloaks and caps so 
useful to travellers in wet weather. 

Another method. — A kind of varnishef" silk, 
which has only a yellowish colour, and whi^-xi suf- 
fers the texture of the stuff to appear, is prepared 
with a mixture of 3 parts boiled oil of pinks, andl 
part of fat copal varnish, which is extended with a 
6oarse bx'ush or knife. Two strata are sufficient 
when oil lias been freed from its greasy particles 
over a slow fire, or when boiled with a fourth part 
of its weight of I'tharge, 



The inequalities are removed by pumice-stone 
and water; after which the copal varnish is applied. 
This simple operation gives to white silk a yellow 
colour, which arises from the boiled oil and the 
varnish. 

This varnished silk possesses all tliose qualities 
ascribed to certain preparations of silk which are 
recommended to be worn as jackets by persons 
subject to rheumatism. 

To prepare -water proof boots. 

Boots and shoes may be rendered impervious to 
water by the folloxving composition. — Take 3 oz. 
of spermaceti, and melt it in a pipkin, or other 
earthen vessel, over a slow fire : add tlieretc six 
drachms of Indian nibber, cut into slices, and these 
will presently dissolve, 'rhen add, ieriatim, of tal- 
low, 8 ounces; hog's lard, 2 ounces; amber var . 
nish, 4 ounces. Alix, and it will be fit for use im 
mediately. The boots or other material to be 
treated, are to receive two or three coats, with a 
common blacking brush, and a fine polish is the 
result. 

To make leather and other articles water procf.- 
Patent. 

Dissolve ten pounds of Indian rubber, cut into 
bits, the smaller the better, in twenty gallons ot 
pure spirits of turpentine, by putting them to- 
gether into a tin vessel that will hold forty gallons. 
This vessel is to be immersed in cold water, con- 
tained in a boiler, to which fire is to be applied so 
as to make the -water boil, occasionally supplying 
what is lost by evaporation. Here it is to remain 
until a perfect solution of the caoutchouc in the 
turpentine is obtained. One hundred and fifty 
pounds oi pure bees wax are now to be dissolved in 
one hundred gallons of pure spirits of turpentine, 
to which add twenty pounds of Burgundy pitch 
and ten pounds of gum frankincense. The solu- 
tion to be obtained as directed for the caoutchoui;. 
Mix the two solutions, and, when cold, add ten gal- 
lons of copal varnish, and put the whole into a re- 
servoir, diluting it with one hundred gallons of 
lime water, five gallons at a time, and stirring it 
well up for six or eight hours in succession, wbicli 
stirring must be repeated when any of the compo- 
sition is taken out. If it is wanted black, mix 20 
pounds of lamp-black with 20 gallons ot turpen- 
tine, (which 20 gallons should be deducted from 
the quantity previously employed) and add it pre- 
viously to putting in the lime water. 

To use it, lay it on the leather with a painter's 
brush, and rub it in. 

To make black japan. 

Take of boiled oil, 1 gallon, umber, 8 oz. as- 
phaltum, 3 oz. oil of turpentine, as much as will 
reduce it to the thinness required. 
To presei^e tiles. 

After the adoption of glazing, varnishing, &c. 
to increase the hardness of tiles, tarring has been 
found completely to stop their pores, and to ren- 
der them impervious to water. The process is 
practicable, and not expensive. Lime and tar, 
whale oil or dregs of oil, are equally adapted to 
the purpose, and still cheaper. Tarring is parti- 
cularly efficacious when tiles are cracked by the 
frost. It is calculated, that the expense of coal tar 
for a roof of a middling extent, and supposing such 
a roof to require one hundred weight, would not 
exceed two guineas. 

To bronze plaster Jigiires. . 

For the ground, after it has been sized and rub- 
bed down, take Prussian blue, verditer, and spruce 
ochre. Grind them separately in water, turpen- 
tine, or oil, according to the work, and mix them 
in such proportions a^ will produce the colour de- 
sired. Then grind Dutch metal in a part of this 
composition-, laying it with judgment on the pro- 



VARNISHES. 



31 



tninent parts of the figiire, whicn pioduces a grand 
effect. 

To polish varnished fmrdtw^e. 
' Take two ounces of tripoli powdered, put it in 
an earthen pot, with water to cover it; then take a 
piece of white flannel, lay it over a piece of cork 
or i-uhber, and proceed to polish the varnish, al- 
ways welling it Mitli the tripoli and v/ater. It will 
be known when the process is finished by wiping 
a part of the work wit!i a sponge, and observing 
whether there is a fuir even gloss. Wlien this is 
the case, take a bit of luuttoii suet and line flour, 
and clean the work. 

To polish -loood. 

Take a piece of pumice stone, and water, and 
pass regularly over the work until the rising of 
the grain is cut down; then take powdered tripoli 
and boiled linseed oil, and polish the work to a 
bright surface. 

To polish brass ornnme^iis inlaid in ivood. 

File llie brass very clean with a smooth file; 
then take sorae tripoli powdered very fine, and 
mi.x it with the linseed oil. Dip in this a rubber 
cf hat, with which polish the woi'k until the de- 
sired effect is obtained. 

If the work is ebony, or black rose wood, take 
some elder coal powdered very fine, and apply it 
dry after you have done with the ti-ipoli, and it 
will produce a superior polish. 

The French mode of ornamenting with brass 
differs widely from ours; theirs being chiefly wa- 
ter-gilt {ormoulu\ excepting the flutes cf columns, 
&c. which are polished very high with rotten stone, 
«nd finished with elder coal. 

To brown gun barrels. 

After the barrel is finished rub it over with aqua 
fortis, or spirit of salt, diluted with water. Then 
lay it by for a week, till a complete coat of oil is 
formed. A little oil is then to be applied, and 
after rubbing the surface dry, polish it with a hard 
brush and a little bees' wax. 

To make blacking. 

Take of ivory black and treacle, each 12 oz. 
spermaceti oil, 4 oz. white wine vinegar, 4 pints. 

Mix. This blacking, recommended by Mr 
Gray, lecturer on the materia medica, is superior 
in giving leather a finer polish than any of those 
that are advertised, as tliey all contain sulphuric 
acid, (oil of vitriol,) which is necessary to give it 
the polisliing quality, but it renders leather rotten, 
and very liable to crack. . 

To make liquid blacking. 

Take of vinegar. No. 18, (the common,) 1 quart, 
ivory-black, and treacle, each 6 oz. vitriolic acid, 
and spermaceti, (or common oil,) each 1^ oz. 

Mix the acid and oil first, afterwards add the 
other ingredients; if, when it is used, it does not 
dry (juick enough on the leather, add a little moi'e 
of the vitriol, aiittle at a time, till it dries quick 
enough. \Vhen there is too much of the vitriolic 
acid, which is various in its strength, the mixture 
will give it a brown colour. 

N.B. Vinegar is sold by numbers, viz. No. 18 
aha weakest), 1.9, 20, 21, '2.-2. The celebrated 
oiacking is made with No. 18. When this mixture 
is properly finished, the ivory-black will be about 
one-third the contents of the bottle. 
To make Jiailey^s composition for blacking cakes. 

Take gum tragacanth, one ounce; neat's foot oil, 
superfine ivor^-black, deep blue, prepared from 
iron and copper, each two ounces; brown sugar 
candv, liver water, each four ounces. Having mix- 
ed well these ingredients, evaporate the wa.ler, 
and form your cakes. 

To make blacking balls for shoes. 

Take mutton suet, 4 ouii.;es; bees' wax, one 
ounce; sweet oil, one ounce; sugar candy and gum- 



arabic, one drachm each, in fine powder: melt 
these well together over a gentle fire, and add 
thereto about a spoonful of turpentine, and 1am])- 
black sufticient to give it a good black colour. 
While hot enough to run, make it into a ball, by 
pouring the li^juor into a tin mould; or let it stand 
till almost cold: or it may be moulded by tlie hand. 
To make limnd japan blacking. 

Take 3 ounces of ivory-black, '2 oz. of coarse 
sugar, one ounce of sulphuric acid, one ounce d'i 
muriatic, acid, one talile-spooiiful of sw"et oil and 
lemon acid, and one pint of vinegar. First mix the 
ivor>''-black .ind sweet oil together, then vhe lemon 
and sugar, with a little vinegar, to qualify tiie black 
ing; tlien add the sulphuric and muriatic acids, and 
mix them all well together. 

Observation. The sugar, oil, and vinegar pre- 
vent the acids from injuring the leather, and add 
to the lustre of the blacking. 

.,1 cheap method. — Ivory-black, 2 oimces; brown 
sugar, one ounce and a half; and sweet oil, h;'.lf a 
table-spoonful. Mix them well, and tlien gradually 
add half a pint of small beer. 

^Inothcr method. — A quarter of a pound of ivory- 
black, a quarter of a pound of moist sugar, a table- 
S])oonful of flour, a piece of tallow about the size 
of a walnut, and a small piece of gum-arabic. 
Make a paste of the flour, and wliilst hot, put in 
the tallow, then the sugar, and afterwards mix the 
whole well together in a quart of water. 
To re7uler leatlier luater proof. 

This is doue by rubbing or brushing into the 
leather a mixture of drying oils, and any of the ox- 
ides or cal.xes of lead, copper, or iron; or by sub 
stituting any of the gummy resins, in the room of 
the metallic oxides. — Repertory, vol. x. 

To make varnish for colo7ired dra^vings. 

Take of Canada balsam one ounce, sjyirit of twr- 
pentine, two ounces. Mix them together. Befdi-* 
this composition is applied, the draw;' '^ or pri.'st 
should be sized with a solution of isingkss in wu- 
ter; and when dry, apply the varnish with a camel's- 
hair brush. 

To make furniture paste. 

Scrape tour ounces of bees' wax into a basin, and 
add as much oil of turpentine as will moisten it 
through. Now powder a quarter of an ounce of 
resin, and add as much Indian i-ed as will bring it 
to a deep mahogany colour. When the composi- 
tion is properly stirred up, it will prove an excel- 
lent ceiuent or paste for blemishes in mahogany, 
and other furniture. 

Another method. — Scrape four ounces of bees' 
wax as before. To a pint of oil of turpentine, in a 
glazed pipkin, add an ounce of alkanet-root. Co- 
ver it close, and put it over a slow fire, attending 
it carefully that it may not boil over, or catch fire. 
^Vhen the liquid is of a deep red, add as much of 
it to the wax as will moisten it through, also a 
quarter of an ounce of powdered resin. Cover the 
whole close, and let it stand six hours, when it will 
be fit for use. 

To make furmtiire oil. 

Take linseed-oil, put it into a glazed pipkin 
with as much alkanet-root as it will cover. Let it 
boil gently, and it will become of a strong red co- 
lour: when cool it will be fit for use. 
To make luash for preserving drawings made -with 
a black lead pencil. 

A thin wash of isinglass will fix either black 
lead, or hard black chalk, so as to prevent their 
rubbing out; or the sanie eftcct may be produced 
by tlie simple application of skimmed milk, as has 
been proved by frequent trials. 'I'he best way ot 
using the latter is to lay the drawing flat upon the 
surface of the milk; and then taking it U]) by one 
corner till it drains and dries. The milk must be 



32 



TNIVERSAl. RECEIPT BOOK. 



perfectly free from cream, or ii ^ill greiise tlie pa- 
per. 

To make vamish for ivnod, rvk ihreslsts the action 
ofhoidnff water. 

Take a pound and a half of linseed-oil, and boil 
It in a red copper vessel, not t'nned. holding sus- 
pended over it, in a small linen ba^,, five ounces of 
litharge, and three ounces of pulverized minium; 
taking care that the bag does not touch the bottom 
of the vessel. Continue the ebullition until the oil 
acquires a deep brown colour; then take away the 
bag, and substitute another in its place, containing 
a clove of garlic; continue the ebullition, .nnd re- 
new the clove of garlic seven or eight times, or 
rather put them all in at once. 

Then throw into the vessel a pound of yellow 
amber, after Iiaving melted it in the following man- 
ner: — Add to the pound of amber, well pulveriz- 
ed, two ounces of linseed-oil, and plrxe the whole 
on a strong fire. When the fusion is complete, 
pour it boiling into the prepared linseed-oil, and 
continue to leave it boiling for two or three minutes, 
stirring the whole up well, It is then left to settle; 
the composition is decanted and preserved, when 
it becomes cold, in well corked bottles. 

After polishing the wood on which this varnish is 
to be applied, you give to the wood the colour re- 
quired; for instance, for walnut wood, a slight 
coat of A mixture of soot witln the essence of tur- 
pentine. When this colour is perfectly dry, give 
it a coat of varnish with a fine sponge, in order to 
spread it very equal; repeat these coais four times, 
taking care always to let the preceding coat be 
dried. — Jlnnales de V Industrie, 1821. 
To restore the blackness of old leather chairs, &c. 

Many families, especially in the country, pos- 
sess chairs, settees, &c. covered witli black leather: 
t nese, impaired by long use, may be restored near- 
ly to their original good colour and gloss by the 
following easy and approved process: — Take two 
yolks of new laid eggs, ami the white of one. Let 
tliese be well beaten up, and then shaken in a glass 
• vessel or jug, to become like thick oil; dissolve in 
about a table-spoonful or less of geneva, an ordi ■ 
nary te.a-lump of lo;if-sugar; make this thick with 
ivory black, well worked up with a bit of stick; 
mix with the egg for use. Let tliis be laid on as 
blacking ordinarily is for slioes; after a verj few 
minutes polish with a soft, very clean brush, till 
completely dry and shining, then let it remain a 
day to harden. 

The same process answers admirably for ladies' 
cordovan, or gentlemen's dress-shoes^ but with the 
following addition for protecting the stockings 
from soil. Let the white or glaire of eggs be shak- 
eVj in a large glass phial until it becomes a perfect 
oil^ brush over the inner edges of the slioes with 
it, and when completely dry, it will grevent all 
soiling from the leather. This requires to be re- 
[jeated. 

To polish and soften ivory. 

This article .s polished with putty and water, by 
me&ns of a rubber, made of hat, which, in a short 
time, produces a fine gloss. The following direc- 
tions are given to soften ivoiy. Let it stand in a 
warm place 48 hours, and you will be able to bend 
the ivory in any form. 

To vamish drawings and card -work. 

Boil some clear parchment cuttings in water, in 
a glazed pipkin, till they produce avery clear size. 
Strain it and keep it for use. 

Give the work two coats of the size, passing the 
brush quickly over the work, not to disturb the co- 
lours. 

To make turpentine vamish. 

Mix one gallon of oil of turpentine, and five 
pounds of powdered resin ^ put it in a tin can, on a 



stove, and let it boil for half an hour. When coo! 
it is lit for use, 

To make vaiiilslies for violins, £Jc. 

To a gallon of rectified spirit of wine, add six 
ounces of gum sandarac, three ounces of gum mas~ 
tic, and half a pint of turpentine varnish. Put the 
T/iiole into a tin carj, which keep in a warm place,. 
frequently shaking it, for twelve days, until it ia 
dissolved, 'liieu strain and keep it for use. 
To varrish harps and didcimers. 

Prepare the work with size and red ochre; then 
take ochre, burnt umber, and red lead, weH 
ground, and mix up a dark brown colour in tur- 
pentine varnish, adding so much oil of tuq)entiiie 
that the brush, may just be able to pass over the 
work fair and even. While yet wet, take a muslin 
sieve, and sift as rouch Dutch metal, previously 
powdered, upon it as is requisite to produce the ef- 
fect, after which varnish and polish it. 
To {rreserve steel goods. 

Mr Aikin recommends a thin coating of caout- 
chouc as an excellent preservative of iron and steel 
articles fi'om the action of the air and moisture; its 
unalterability, consistence v, hen heated, adhesion 
to iron and steel, and facility of removal, render it 
an admirable substance for this purpuse. 

The caoutchouc is to be melted in a close vessel, 
that it may not inflame. It will require nearly the 
temperature of fusing lead, and must be stirred to 
prevent burning. 

Mr Parkins, to whom Mr Aikin communicated 
this pi-ocess, has made much use of it in his blocks 
plates, dies, JxC. He mixes some oil of turpen- 
tine v/ith the caoutchouc, which i-enders it easily 
applicable, and leaves tlie substance, when d.ry, as 
a firm varnish, impermeable to moisture. This, 
when required, may easily be removed by a soft 
brash dipped in warm oil of turpentine. 

Tu prepare oil for ivatch-work, &c. 

Oil used for diminishing frictions in delicate 
machinery, should be free from all acids and mu- 
cilage. 

P\it into a matrass or glass flask, a portion of 
any fine oil, with seven or eight times its weight 
ofalcohol, and heat the mixture almost to boiling, 
decant the clear upper strrtum of fluid, and sufter 
it to cool ; a solid portion of fatty iTiatter separates 
which is to be rem jved, and then the alcoholic so- 
lution evaporated In a retort or basin, until redu- 
ced to one-fifth of its bulk. The fluid part of the 
oil will be deposited. It should be colourless and 
tasteless, almost free from smell, withcuc action 
on infusion of litmus, having the consistence of 
white olive oil, ana not easily congealable. — Jour- 
nal of Science, 1822. 

To make papier mache. 

This is a substance made of cuttings of white or 
brown paper, boiled in water, and beaten in a mor- 
tar till they are reduced into a kind of paste, and 
then boiled with a solution of gum arabic, or of 
size, to give tenacity to the paste, which is after- 
wards forir d into different toys, &c. by pressing 
it into oiled mouids. Whi,n dry, it is done over 
with a mixture of size and lamp-black, and after- 
wards variiisheri. The black varnish for these toys, 
according to Di: Lewis, is prepared as follows : 
Some colo]ihcny, ©r turpentine, boiled downtillit 
bucomes biack and friable, is melted in a glazed 
earthen vessel, and thrice as ir.uch amber in fine 
])0wder sprinkled in by degrees, with the addition 
of a little spirit or oil of turpentine now and then; 
wheT tlie amber is meUed, sprinkle in tlie same 
qninllty of sarcocoUa, i-ontinuing to stir them, and 
tc • I'i more spirit of tui'pentine, till the whole be- 
comes fluid ; then strain out the clear through a 
coarse hair bag, pressing it gently between hot 
boards. This vai-nish, mixed with ivory-black ia 



VARKISHES. 



35 



fine powder, is applied, in a hot room, on the dri- 
ed paper paste; -wliich is then set in a gently heat- 
ed oven, next duy in a hotter oven, and the third 
day in a very hot one, and let stand each time till 
the oven grows cold. The paste thus varnished is 
hard, diiiable, glossy, and bears liquors hot or 
cold. 

To varnish glass. 

Pulverize a quantity of gum adragant, and let it 
dissolve for twenty-four hours in the white of eggs 
well heat up ; then rub it gently on the glass with 
a brush. 

To apply copal varnish to the reparation of opake 
enamels. 

The properties manifested by these varnishes, 
and which render them proper for supplying the 
vitreous and transparent poating of enamel, by a 
covering equally brilliant, but more solid, and 
which adlieres to vitreous compositions, and to 
metallic surfaces, admit of their being applied to 
other purposes besides tliose here enumerated. 

By sliglit modifications they may be used also 
for the reparation of opake enamel whicli has been 
fractured. These kinds of enamel admit the use 
of cements coloured throughout, or only superfi- 
cially, b)' copal varnish charged with colouring 
parts. On this account they must be attended with 
less difficulty in the rep?ration than transparent 
enamel, because they tlo not require the same re- 
flection of the light. Composilions of paste, there- 
foi'e, the different grounds of which may always 
harmonize with the colour"* r/ ground of the pieces 
to be repaired, and which may be still strengthen- 
ed b)' the same tint introduced into the solid var- 
nish, with which the articles are glazed, will an- 
swer the views of the artist in a wonderful man- 
ner. 

The base of the cement ought to be pure clay 
without colour, and exceedingly dry. If solidity 
be required, ceruse is the only substance that can 
be substituted in its place. D-ying oil of pinks 
will form an excellent excipient, and the consist- 
ence of the cement ought to be such that it can be 
easily extended by a knife or spatula, possessed of 
a moderate degree of flexibility. Thissort of paste 
soon dries. It has the advantage also of presenting 
to the colours, applied to it with a brush, a idnd 
of ground wliich contributes to their solidity. The 
compound mastic being exceedingly drying, the 
application of it will be proper in cases whefe 
speedy reparation of the damaged articles is re- 
quired. 

In more urgent cases, the paste may be compos- 
ed with ceruse, and the turpentine copal varnishes; 
which dries more speedily than oil of pinks ; and 
the colours may .then be glazed with the ethereal 
«opal varnish. 

The application of the paste will be necessary 
only in cases when the accident, which has hap- 
pened to the enamel, leaves loo great a vacuity to 
be filled up by several strata, of coloured varnish. 
But in all cases, the varnish ought to be well dri- 
ed, that it may acquire its full lustre by polish- 
ing- 

To make -white copal varnish. 

White oxide of kad, ceruse, Spanish white, 
white clay. Such of these substances as are pre- 
ferred ought to be carefully dried. Ceruse aud 
clay obstinately retain a great deal of humidity, 
which would oppose their adhesion to drying oil 
or varnish. The cement then cnuables under the 
fingers, and does not assume a body. 

Another. — On 16 ounces ot melted copal, pour 4, 
6, or 8 ounces of linseed oil boiled, and quite free 
from giease. When well mixed by repeated stir- 
rings, nnd after they are pretty cool, pour in 16 
©uncfcs of the essence of Venice tiu-pentiue, 
£< 



Pass the varnish through a cloth. Amber Tarnish 
is made the same way. 

To make black copal varnish. 
Lamp-black, made of burnt vine twigs, black of 
peach-stones. The lamp-black must be carefully 
washed and afterwards dried. Washing cai'ries on 
a great many of its impurities. 

To make yellow copal varnish. 
Yellow oxide of lead of Naples and Montpellier, 
both reduced to impalpable powder. These yel- 
lows are hurt by the contact of iron and steel ; in 
mixing them up, therefore, a horn spatula with a 
glass mortar and pestle must be employed. 

Gum guttx, yellow ochre, or Dutch pink, ac- 
cording to the nature and tone of the colour to be 
imitated. 

To make blue copal varnish. 
Indigo, prussiate of iron, (Prussian blue) blue 
verditer, and ultra marine. All these substances 
must be very much divided. 

To make green copal varnish. 
Verdigris, crystallized verdigris, compound 
green, (a mixture of yellow and blue). The first 
two require a mixture of white in proper propor- 
tions, from a fourth to two-thirds, according to the 
tint intended to be given. The white used for this 
purpose is ceruse, or the white oxide of lead, or 
Spanish white, which is less solid, or white of 
Moudon. 

To make red copal varnish. 
Red sulphuretted oxide of mercury (cinnabar veiy 
milion). Red oxide of lead Trninium), dii&reat 
red -oclires, or Prussian reds. Sec. 

To make purple copal varnish. 
Cochineal, carmine, and carminated lakes, with 
ceruse and boiled oil. 

Brick red. 
Dragon's blood. 

Chamois colour. 
Dragon's blood with a paste composed of flowers 
of zinc, or, what is still better, alittle red vermiiioK, 
Violet. 
Red sulphuretted ox' 'la of mercury, mixed with 
lamp-black, washed very dry, or with the black of 
burnt vine twigs; and to render it mellower, a pro- 
per mixture of red, blue, and white. 
Pearl grey. 
White and black; white and blue; for example, 
ceruse and lamp-black; ceruse and indigo. 
Flaxen grey. 
Ceruse, which forms the ground of the paste, 
mixed with a small quantity of Cologne earth, s.s 
much English red, or carminated lake, which is 
not so durable, and a particle of prussiate of iron. 
( b'russian blue). 

To dissolve elastic gum, 
M. Grossart, by an ingenious method, succeed- 
ed in forming India rubber into elastic tubes. Cut 
a bottle of the gum circularly, in a spiral slip of a 
few lines in breadth; then plunge the whole of the 
slip into vitriolic ether, till it becomes softenedj 
half an hour is generally sufficient for this purpose. 
The slip is then taken out of the liquid, and one 
of the extremities applied to the end of a mould, 
first rolling it on itseif, and pressing it, then mount- 
ing spirally along tho cylinder, taking care to lay 
over and compress with the hand every edge, one 
against the other, so that *Jiere may not be any va- 
cant space, and that all t' k edges may join exactly; 
the whole is then to be iound hard with a tape of 
an inch in width, tak' zig care to turn it the same 
way with the slip of ( Jioutchouc. Over the tape, 
packthread is to be r^)plied, in such a manner, that 
by every turn of the thread joining another, an 
equal pressure is given to every part. It is then left 
to dry, and the tube is made. ' In removing the 
bandage great care must be taken, tb9t none of (he 



34 



UNIVERSAL KECEll'T BOOK. 



outward surface, which may have lodged within 
the interstices of the tape, (of which the caout- 
chouc takes the exact impression), may be pulled 
asunder. If it is found difficult to withdraw the 
iBouldj it may be plunged into hot water. If the 
mould were previously smoked or rubbed with 
chalk, it might be removed with less difficulty. 
Polished metallic cylinders are the most eligible 
moulds for this purpose. As solvents, oils of tur- 
pentine and lavender may be employed, but both 
are much slower of evaporating the ether, and the 
oil of turpentine, pai'ticularly, appears to have a 
kind of stickiness. Nevertheless, there is a solvent 
which has not that inconvenience, is cheaper, and 
may easily be procured by every one, viz. -water. 
Proceed in the same manner as with ether. The 
caoutchouc is sufficiently prepared for use when it 
has been a quarter of an hour in boiling water: by 
this time its edges are sometimes transparent. It 
is to be turned spirally round the mould, and re- 
plunged frequently into the boiling water, during 
the time employed in forming the tube. Wlien the 
whole is bound with packthread, it is to be kept 
some hours in boiling water, after which it is to be 
dried, still keeping on the binding. This method 
may be successfully employed in forming the larger 
sort of tubes, and in any other instruments, but it 
would be impracticable to make the small tubes in 
tills way. 

Oil of lavender, of tm'pentine, and of spikenard, 
dissolve elastic gum, with the assistance of a gen- 
,le heat; but a mixtui-e of volatile oil and alcohol 
forms a better solvent for it than oil alone, and 
the varnish dries sooner. If boiled in a solution 
of alum in water, it is rendered softer than in wa- 
ter alone. Yellow wax, in a state of ebullition, 
may be saturated with it, by putting it, cut in small 
pieces, gradually into it. By this means a pliable 
varnish is formed, which may be applied to cloth 
with a brush, but it still retains a clamminess. 
To make caoxitchouc varnish. 

Take caoutchouc, or elastic resin, boiled linseed 
oil, essence of turpentine, each 16 oz. 

Cut the caoutchouc into thin slips, and put them 
into a matrass placed in a verj- hot sand-bath. 
When the matter is liquefied, add the linseed oil 
in a state of ebullition, and then the essence warm. 
When the varnish has lost a great part of its heat, 
strain it through a piece of linen, and preserve it 
in a wide-mouthed bottle. This varnish dries 
very slowly, a fault which is owing to the peculiar 
nature of the caoutchouc. 

The invention of air balloons led to the idea of 
applying caoutchouc to the composition of varnish. 
It was necessary to have a varnish which should 
unite great pliability and consistence. No varnish 
seemed capable of corresponding tc> these views, 
except that of caoutchouc, but the desiccation of it 
is exceedingly tedious. 

To varnish balloons. 

The compositions for varnishing balloons have 
been variously modified; but, upon the whole, the 
most approved appears to be the bird-lime varnish 
of M. FaujasStFond, prepared after M. Cavallo's 
method as follows : " In order to render linseed 
oil drying, boil it with 2 ounces of sugar of lead, 
and 3 ounces of litharge, for every pint of oil, till 
they are dissolved, which may be in half an hour. 
Then put a pound of bird-lime, and half a pint of 
the drying oil, into an iron or copper vessel, whose 
capacity should equal about a gallon, and let it boil 
very gently over a slow charcoal fire, till the bird- 
lime ceases to crackle, which will be in about half. 
Of three-quarters, of an hour; then pour upon it 
2i pints more of the drying oil, and let it boil 
about an hour longer; stirring it frequently with 
An iron or wooden spatula. As the varoisb, whilst 



boiling, and especially when nearly ready, sweUs 
very much, care should be taken to remove, in 
tltose cases, the pot from the fire, and to replace it 
when the varnish subsides; otherwise it will boil 
over. W hilst the stuff is boiling, the operator 
should occasional!}' examine whether it has boiled 
enough; which may he known by observing 
whether, when rubbed between two knives, which 
are then to be seyjarated from one another, the 
varnish forms threads between them, as it must 
then be removed from the fire. When nearly cool, 
add about an equal quantity of oil of turpentine. 
In using the varnish, the stuff must be stretched, 
and the varnish applied lukewarm. In 24 hours it 
will dry." 

Another. — As the elastic resin, known by the 
name of Indian rubber, has been much extolled for 
a varnish, the following method of making it, as 
practised by M. Blanchard, may not prove unacr 
ceptable. — Dissolve elastic gum, cut small, in five 
times its weight of rectified essential oil of tur- 
pentine, by keeping them some days together: 
then boil 1 ounce of this solution in 8 ounces of 
di-ying linseed oil for a few minutes; strain the 
solution, and use it warm. 

2'o varnish rarefied air balloons. 

With regard to the rarefied air machines, M. 
Cavallo recommends, first, to soak the cloth in a 
solution of sal-ammoniac and common size, using 
one pound of each to eveiy gallon of water; and 
when the cloth is quite dry, to paint it over on the 
inside with some eai'thy colour, and strong size or 
glue. When this paint has dried perfectly, it will 
then be proper to cover it with oily varnish, which 
might dry before it could penetrate quite through 
the cloth. Simple drying linseed oil will answoi 
the purpose as well as anv, provided it be not very 
fluid. 

To make varnish for silks, &c. 

To 1 quart of cold-drawn linseed-oil, poured off 
from the lees (produced on the addition of un- 
slacked lime, on which the oil has stood 8 or 10 
days at the least, in order to communicate a dry- 
ing quality, — or brown umber, burnt and powder— 
e(i, which will have the like effect,) and half an 
ounce of litharge; boil them foihalf'^an hour, then 
add half an ounce of the copal varnish. While the 
ingredients are on the fire, in a copper vessel, put 
in 1 oz. of Chios turpentine, or common resin, and 
a few drops of neatsfoot oil, and stir the whole 
with a knife; when cool, it is ready for use. The 
neatsfoot oil prevents the varnish from being sticky 
or adhesive, and may be put into the linseed oil at 
the same time with the lime, or burnt umber. Re- 
sin or Chios turpentine may be added till the var- 
nish has attained the desired thickness; 

The longer the raw linseed-oil remains on the 
unslacked lime or umber, the sooner will the oil 
dry after it is used; if some months, so much the 
better; such varnish will set, that is to say, not 
run, but keep its place on the silk in four hours; 
the silk may then be turned and varnished on the 
other side. 

To make pliable varnish for umbrellas. 

Take any quantity of caoutchouc, as 10 or 12 
ounces, cut into small bits with a pair of scissors, 
and put a strong iron ladle (such as painters, 
plumbers, or glaziers melt their lead in,) over a 
common pit-coal or other fire; which must be gen- 
tle, glowing, and without smoke. When the ladl'3 
is hot put a single bit into it: if black smoke issues, 
it will presently flame and disappear, or it will 
evaporate Avithout flame: the ladle is then too hot 
When the ladle is less hot, put in a second bit, 
which will produce a white smoke; tnis white 
smoke will continue during the operation, and 
evaporate tb? caoutchouc; therefore no time is *;© 



VARNISHES. 



Sb 



he lost, but little bits are to oe put in, a few at a 
time, till the whole are nieited,- it should be con- 
tinually and gently stirred with an iron or brass 
spoon. The instant the smoke changes from white 
to black, take off the ladle, or tlie whole Avill break 
out into a violent flame, or be spoiled, or lost. 
Care must be taken that no water be added, a few 
drops only of which woidd, on account of its ex- 
pansibility, make it boil over furiously and Avith 
great noise; at this period of the process, 2 pounds 
or I quart of the best drying oil is to be put into 
the melted caoutchouc and stirred till hot, and tiie 
whole jjoured into a glazed vessel through a coarse 
gauze, or wire sieve. When settled and clear, 
which will be in a few minutes, it is fit for use, 
either hot or cold. 

The silk should be always stretched horizontally 
by pins or tenter-hooks on frames: (the greater 
they ai-e in length the belter,) and the varnish 
poured on cold, in hot lueather, and liot, in cold 
zveather. It is perhaps best, always to lay it on 
when cold. The art of laying it on properly, con- 
sists in making no intestine motion in the varnish, 
which woidd create minute bubbles, therefore 
brushes of every kind are iraproi)er, as each bub- 
ble breaks in drying, and forms a small hole, 
through which the air will transpire. 

This varnish is pliant, unadhesive, and mialtera- 
ole by weather. 

Vctrnish used for Indian sJuelds. 

Shields made at Silhet, in Bengal, are noted 
throughout India, for the lustre and durability of 
the black varnish witli which they are coA'ered; 
Silhet shields constitute, therefore, no inconsi- 
derable article of traffic, being in request among 
natives who carry arms, and retain the ancient 
predilection for the scimitar and buckler. Tiie 
varnisli is composed of the expressed juice of the 
marking nut, Seinecarpus jinacurJimn, and that of 
another kindred truit, HoUgarna Jjongifolia. 

Tlie shell of the Semecurpus Anacardium con- 
tains between its integuments numerous cells, 
filled with a black, acrid, i-esinous juice; whicii 
likewise is found, though less abundantly, in the 
wood of the tree. It Is commonly employed as au 
indelible ink, to mark all sorts of cotton cloth. 
The colour is fixed with quick lime. The corti- 
cal part of the fruit of Holigama Longifolia like- 
wise contains between its laminiB numerous cells, 
filled with a black, thick, acrid fluid. The na- 
tives of Malabar exti-act by incision, with whicli 
they varnish targets. 

To prepare the varnish according to the method 
practised in Silhet, tlie nuts of the Seinecarpus 
Ancu^ttrdimn, and the berries of the Holigama 



Jjongifolia, having been steeped for a month in 
clear water, are cut ti-ansversely, and pressed in a 
mill. The expressed juice of each is kept for se- 
veral months, taking off" tlie scum from lime to time. 
Afterwards the liquor is decanted, and two parts 
of tlie one are added to one part of the other, to be 
used as varnish. Other jn-oportions of ingre- 
dients are sometimes employed; but in all, the 
resinous juice of the Seinecarpus predominates. 
The varnish is laid on like paint, and when dry, is 
polished by rubbing it with an agate, or smooth 
pebble. I'his varnish also prevents destruction of 
wood, &c. by the ivhite ant. 

To varnisli like gold silvei^ leaf. 

Fix the leaf on the subject, similar to gchl leaf, 
by the interposition of proper glutinous matters, 
spread the varnish upon the piece with a pencil. 
When the first coat is diy wash tlie piece again and 
again with the varnish till the colour appears suf- 
ficiently deep. What is ciJled gilt leather, and 
many picture frames, have no other than tliis gild- 
ing; washing them with a little rectified spirit of 
wine affords a proof of this; the spirit dissolving tlie 
varnish, and leaving the silver leaf of its own white- 
ness; for plain frames thick tin foil may be used 
instead of silver. The tin leaf fixed on tlie piece 
with glue is to be burnished, then polished with 
emery and a fine linen cloth, and afterwards with 
putty applied in the same manner; being tlien lac- 
quered over with varnish five or six times, it looks 
very nearly like burnished gold. The same var- 
nish, made with a less propoi'tion of colouring ma- 
terials, is applied also on works of brass; both fur 
heightening the colour of the metal to a resem- 
blance with that of gold, and for preserving it from 
being tarnished by the air. 

To recover vandsh. 

Clear off the filth with a ley made of potash, and 
the ashes of the lees of wine; tlien take 48 ounces 
of potash, anu 16 of the above mentioned ashes, 
and put them into six quarts of water, and this com- 
pletes the ley. 

To polish varnish. 

This is effected with pumice stone and tripoli 
earth. The pumice stone must be reduced to an 
impalpable powder, and put upon a piece of serge 
moistened with water: with this rub lightly and 
equally the varnish substance. The tripoli must 
also be reduced to a very fine powder, and put up- 
on a clean woollen cloth, moistened with olive oil, 
with which the polishing is to be x'erformed. The 
varnish is then to bo wiped oft" with soft linen, and 
Mlieu quite dry, eleaiied with starch or Spanish 
white, and rubbed with the palm of the hand. 



OXXi AND WATISH. C0K01IRS. 



HOUSE PAINTING. 

2'o mix the colours for hoicse painting. 
All simple or compound colours, and all the 
shades of colour which natm'e or art can produce, 
and which might be thought proper for the differ- 
ent kinds of painting, Avould form a very extensive 
catalogue, Avere we to take into consideration only 
certain external characters, or the intensity of their 
tint. But art, founded on the experience of several 



centuries, has prescribed bounds to the cons^imp- 
tion of colouring substances, and to the application 
of them to jjarticular purposes. T'o cause a sub- 
stance to be admitted into the class of colouring 
bodies employed by painters, it is not sufficient for 
it to contain a colour; to brightness and splendour 
it must also unite durability in the tint cr coloui 
Avliich it communicates. 

Tomake black paint. 
Usage requires attention in tlie choice of the 



36 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



matters destined for black. The following are their 
properties: 
Black from peach stones is dull. 
Ivory-black is strong and beautiful^ -when it has 
been well attenuated wider the wutler. 

Black from the charcoal of beech wood, ground 
on porphyry, has a bhdsh tone. 

Lamp black maybe rendered mellower by mak- 
ing it with LJack which has been kept an hour in 
a state of redness in a close crucible. It then loses 
the fat matter which accompanies this kind of soot. 

Black furnished by the charcoal of vine-twigs, 
ground on porphyry, is weaker, and of a dirty 
^•ey colour, when coarse and alone, but it becomes 
blacker the more the charcoal has been divided. It 
then forms a black very much sought after, and 
which goes a great way. 

To make paints J rom lamp black. 

The consumption of lamp black is very exten- 
sive m common painting. It serves to modify the 
brightness of the tones of the other colours, or to 
facilitate the composition of secondary colours. 
The oil paint applied to iron grates and railing, 
and the paint applied to paper snuff-boxes, to those 
made of tin plate, and to other articles with dark 
grounds, consume a very large quantity of this 
black. Great solidity may be given to works of 
this kind, by covering them with several coatings 
of the fat turpentine, or golden varnish, which has 
been mixed with lamp black, washed in water, to 
sep.arate the foreign bodies introduced into it by 
the negligence of the workmen who prepare it. 

After the varnish is applied, the articles are 
dried in a stove, by exposing them to a heat some- 
what greater than that employed for ai'ticles of pa- 
per. Naples yellow, which enters into the com- 
position of black varnish, is the basis of the dark 
brown observed on tobacco boxes of plate-iron, 
because this colour changes to brown when dried 
with the varnish. 

To make a superior lamp black. 

Suspend over a lamp a funnel of tin plate, hav- 
ing above it a pipe, to convey from ihe apartment 
the smoke which escapes from the lamp. Large 
mushrooms, of a very black carbonaceous matter, 
and exceedingly light, will be formed at the sum- 
mit of the cone. This carbonaceous part is carried 
to such a state of division as cannot be given to any 
other matter, by grinding it on a piece of porphyry. 

This black goes a great way in every kind of 
painting. It may be rendered drier by calcination 
in close vessels. 

The funiiel ought to be united to the pipe, which 
conveys off the smoke, by means of wire, because 
solder would be melted by the flame of the lamp. 
To make black from ground pitcoal. 

The best for this purpose is that which lias a shin- 
ing fracture. It affords, perhaps, the most useful 
browH the artist can place on his palet ; being re- 
markably clear, not so warm as Vandyke brown, 
and serving as a shadow for blues, reds, or yel- 
lows, when glazed over them. It seems almost 
certain that Titian made large use of this material. 
Coal, when burnt to a white heat, then quenched 
in water, and ground down, gives an excellent blue 
black. This belongs to artists' colours. 
To make black from -wine lees. 

This black results from the calcination of wine 
lees and tartar; and is manufactured on a large 
scale in some districts of Germany, in the en- 
virons of Mentz, and even in France. This ope- 
ration is performed in large cylindric vessels, or 
in pots, hav^ing an aperture in the cover to afford 
a passage to tlie smoke, and to the acid and alka- 
line vapours which escape during the process. 
When no more smoke is observed, the operation 
IS finished. The remaining matter, v.'luch is merely 



a mixture of salts and a carbonaceous part verf 
much attenuated, is then washed several times in 
boiling water; and it is reduced to the proper de- 
j gree of fineness by grinding it on porphyry. 

If this black be extracted fi'ora dry lees, it ie 
coarser than that obtained from tartar; because the 
lees contain earthy matters which are confounded 
with the carbonaceous part. 

I'his black goes a great way, and has a velvety 
appearance. It is used chiefly by copper-plate 
printers. 

^7iothei\ — Peach stones, burnt in a close vessel, 
produce a charcoal, which, when ground on por- 
phyry, is employed in painting to give an old grey. 

Jlnother. — Vine twigs reduced to charcoal give a 
bluish black, which goes a great way. When mix- 
ed with white it produces a silver white, which is 
not produced hy other blacks; it has a pretty near 
resemblance to the black of peach stones; but to 
bring this colour to the utmost degree of perfec- 
tion, it must be carefully ground on porphyry. 
7'o make ivory and bone black. 

Put into a crucible, surrounded by burning coals, 
fragments or turnings of Ivory, or of the osseous 
parts of animals, and cover it closely. The ivory 
or bones, by exposure to the heat, will be reduced 
to charcoal. When no more smoke is seen to pass 
through the joining of ihe cover, leave the cruci- 
ble over the fire for half an hour longer, or until it 
has completely cooled. There will then be found 
in it a hard carbonaceous matter, which, when 
pounded and ground on porphyry with water, is 
washed on a filter with warm water, and then dried. 
Before it is used it must be again subjected to the 
matter. 

Black furnished by bones is reddish. That pro- 
duced by ivory is more beautiful. It is brighter 
than black obtained from peach stones. When 
mixed in a proper dose with white oxide of lead, 
it forms a beautiful pearl grey. Ivory black is 
richer. The Cologne and Cassel black are form- 
ed from ivory. 

To paint in -white distemper. 

Grind fine in water, Bougival wnite, a kind of 
marl, or cl;»f>lky clay, and mix it witli size. It may 
1)6 brightened by a small quantity of indigo, or 
charcoal black. 

To make -white paint. 

The white destined for varnish or oil requires a 
metallic oxide, which gives more body to the co- 
lour. Take ceruse, reduced to powder, and grind 
it with oil of pinks, and \ oz. of sulphate of zinc 
for each pound of oil. Apply the second coating 
without the, sulphate of zinc, and suffer it to dry. 
Cover the whole with a stratum of sandarac var- 
nish. This colour is durable, brilliant, andagrefa- 
ble to the eye. 

Boiled linseed oil might be employed instead of 
oil of pinks, but the colour of it would in some 
degree i njure the purity of the white. 

Jlnother. — White is prepared also with pure 
white oxide of lead, ground with a little essence, 
added to oil of pinks, and mixed with gallipot var- 
nish. The colour may be mixed also with essence 
diluted with oil, and without varnish, which is re- 
served for the two last coatings. If for a lively 
white, the colour is heightened with a little Prus- 
sian blue, or indigo, or with a little prepared 
black. The latter gives it a grey cast. But pure 
white lead, the price of which is much higher 
than ceruse, is reserved for valuable articles. In 
this particular case, if a very fine durable white 
be required, grind it with a little essence, and mix 
it with sandarac varash. 

To paint i7i light grey, ard distemper. 

Ceruse, mixed with a small quantity of lam^ 
black, composes a grey, more or less charged ac 



OIL AND WATER COLOURS. 



S7 



•ording to the quantity of black. With this mat- 
ter, therefore, mixed with black in different doses, 
ft great variety of shades may be formed, from the 
lightest to the darkest grey. 

If this colour be destined for distemper, it is 
mixed with water; if intended for oil painting, it 
is ground with nut oil, or oil of pinks; and with 
essence added to oil, if designed for varnish. This 
colour is durable and very pure, if mixed with 
camphorated mastic varnish: the gallipot varnish 
renders it so solid that it can bear to be struck 
with a hammer, if, after the first stratum it has 
been apjilied with varnish, and without size. For 
the last coating sandarac varnish, and camphorated 
ditto are proper; and for the darkest grey, spiritu- 
ous sandarac varnish. 

To make economical -wJdte house paint. 

Skim milk, 2 quarts, fresh slacked lime, 8 oz. 
linseed oil, 6 oz. white burgundy pitch, 2 oz. 
Spanish white, 3 pounds. 

The lime to be slacked in water, exposed to the 
air, mixed in about one-fourth of the milk; the oil 
111 which the pitch is previously dissolved, to be 
added, a little at a time; then the rest of the milk, 
and afterwards the Spanish white. This quantity 
is sufficient for 27 square yards, two coats, and the 
expense not more than ten pence. 

To make pearl grey paint. 

If a particle of blue be substituted for the black 
in the preceding composition, or if this blue be 
combined with a slight portion of black, a silver or 
peai'l grey will be obtained; but that the ground 
may not be altered by a foreign tint, the colour for 
the first coating must be ground with essence 
mixed with a little oil of pinks: for the succeeding 
strata, grind with camphorated mastic varnish, 
softened with a little oil of pmks, and mix the co- 
lour with the same varnish. The pearl grey will 
be still brighter, if the last stratum be glazed with 
sandarac varnish mixed with a little colour. 
To make flaxen grey. 

Ceruse still predominates in this colour, whic.i 
is treated as the other greys, but with this differ- 
ence, that it admits a mixture of lake instead of 
black. Take the quantity, therefore, of ceruse 
necessary, and grind it separately. Then mix it 
up, and add the lake and Prussian blue, also 
ground separately. The quantities of the last tw o 
colours ought to be proportioned to the tone of co- 
lour required. 

This tolour is proper for distemper, varnish, 
and oil paiijting. For varnish, grind it with mas- 
tic gallipot varnish, to which a little oil of pinks 
has been added, and then mix it up with common 
gallipot varnish. For oil painting, grind with un- 
prepared oil of pinks, and mix up with resinous 
drying nut-oil. The painting is brilliant and 
solid. 

When the artist piques himself in carefully pre- 
paring those colours which have splendour, it will 
be proper, before he commences his labour, to 
stop up the holes formed by the heads of the nails 
in wainseolting with a cemeut made of ceruse or 
putty. 

Every kind of sizing which, according to usual 
custom, precedes the application of varnish, ought 
to be proscribed as highly prejudicial, when the 
wainscotting consists of fir-wood. Sizing maybe 
ad'nilted for plaster, but without any mixture. A 
plain stratum of strong glue and water spread over 
it, is sufficient to fill up the pores to prevent any 
unn'".4essaiy consumption of the varnish. 

Ti>5 first stratum of colour, is ceruse without 
any i-4xture, ground with essence added to a little 
oil of pinks, and mixed up with essence. It any 
of tl>€ traces are uneven, rub it liglitly, when dry, 
willi jfumice-stone. This operation contributes 



greatly to the beauty and elegance of tlie p<disli 
when the varnish is applied. 

The second stratum is composed of ceruses 
changed to flaxen grey by the ):>lxture of a little 
Cologne earth, as much' English red or lake, and 
a particle of Prussian blue. First so make the 
mixture with a small q^iantity of ceruse, that the 
result shall be a smoky grey, by the addition of the 
Cologne earth. The red which is added, makes 
it incline to flesh colour, and the Prussian blue 
destroys the latter to form a dark flaxen grey. The 
addition of ceruse brightens the tone. This stra- 
tum and the next are ground, and mixed up with 
varni sh as before. 

This mixture of colours, which produces flaxen 
grey, has the advantage over pearl grey, as it de- 
fends the ceruse from the impression of the ait 
and light, which makes it assume a yellowish tint. 
Flaxen grey, composed in tliis manner, is unalter- 
able. Besides, the essence which forms the vehi- 
cle of the first stratum contributes to bring forth a 
colour, the tone of which decreases a little by the 
effect of drying. This observation ought to serve 
as a guide to the artist, in regard to the tint, 
which is always stronger in a liquid mixture than 
when the matter composing it is extended iu a thin 
stratum, or when it is dry. 

To make oak -wood colcir. 

The basis of this colour is still formed of ceruse. 
Thi'ee-fourths of this oxide, and a foui-th of ochre 
de rue, umber earth, and yellow de Berri; the last 
three ingredients being employed in proportions 
which lead to the required tint; give a matter 
equally proper for distemper, varnish, and oil. 
To make -walmtt -wood colour. 

A given quantity of ceruse, half that quantity of 
ochre de rue, a little Umber earth, red ochre, and 
yellow ochre de Berri, compose this colour proper 
for distemper, varnish, and oil. 

For varnish, grind with a little drying nut-oil, 
and mix up with the gallipot varnish. 

For oil painting, grind with fat oil of pinks 
added to drying oil or essence, and mix up with 
plain dryino; oil, or with resinous drying oil. 
To make JVaples and jMojitpellier yellow. 

The composition of these is simple, yellow ochre 
mixed with ceruse, ground with water, if destined 
for distemper; or dryin" nut-oil and essetice, in 
equal parts, if intended tor varnish; and mixed up 
with camphorated mastic varnish; if for ae/icate 
objects, or with gallipot varnish, give a very fine 
colour, the splendour of which depends on the 
doses of the ceruse; which must be varied accord- 
ing to the particular nature of the colouring mat- 
ter employed. If the ground of the colour is fur- 
nished by ochre, and if oil painting be intended, 
the grinding with oil added to essence may be 
omitted, as essence alone will be sufficient. Oil, 
however, gives more pliability and more body. 
7'o make joncfdl. 

This is employed only in distemper. It may, 
however, be used with varnish. A vegetable co- 
lour serves as its base. It is made with Dutch pink 
and •eruse, and ground with mastic gallipot vai'- 
nish, and mixed up with gallipot varnish. 
To make golden yelluxu colour. 

Cases often occur when it is necessary to pro- 
duce a gold colour without employing a metallic 
substance. A colour capable of forming an illu- 
sion is then given to the composition, the greater 
part of which consists of yellow. This is accom- 
plished by Naples or Moutpellier yellow, bright- 
ened by Spanish white, or by white of Morat, mix- 
ed with ochre de Berri and realgar. The last sub 
stance, even in small quantity, gives to the mixture 
a colour imitating gold, and whiclimay be employed 
indistemper, varnish, or oil. When destined tor oil, 



^8 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



it is ground with dicing or pure nut-oil added to 
essence, and mixed up with drying oil. 

To make chamois and buff colour. 

Yellow is the foundation of chamois colour, 
which is modified by a particle of minium, or what 
is better, cinnabar and ceruse in small quantity. 
This colour may be employed in distemper, varnish, 
and oil. For varnish, it is ground with one half 
common oil of pinks, and one half of mastic galli- 
pot varnish. It is mixed with common gallipot 
varnish. For oil painting, it is ground and mixed 
up with drying oil. 

To make olive colour for oil andvurjiish, 

Olive colour is a composition the shades ot which 
may be diversified. Black and a little blue, mixed 
with yellow, will produce an olive colour. Yel- 
low de Berri, or d'Auvergne, with a little verdi- 
gris and cliarcoal, will also form this colour. 

It is ground and mixed up with mastic, gallipot 
and common gallipot varnishes. For oil painting, 
it is ground with oil added to essence, and mixed 
up with drying oil. 

To make olive colour for distemper. 

When intended for distemper, it will be neces- 
sary to make a change iu the composition. The 
yellow aboveinentioned, indigo, and ceruse, or 
Spanish white, are the new ingredients which must 
be employed. 

To make blue colours. 

Blue belongs to the order of vegetable substances, 
like indigo ; or to that of metallic substances, like 
Prussian blue ; or to that of stony mineral sub- 
stances, as ultra marine; or to that of vitreous sub- 
stances coloured by a metallic oxide, as Saxon blue. 
Ultra marine is more particularly reserved lor pic- 
tures. The sam« may, in some degree, be said of 
Saxon blue. 

When prussiate of iron or indigo is employed 
without mixture, the colour produced is too dark. 
It has no splendour, and very often the light makes 
it appear black; it is, therefore, usual to soften it 
with white. 

To make blue distemper. 

Grind with water as much ceruse as may be 
thought necessary for the whole of the intended 
work; and afterwards mix it with indigo, or Prus- 
sian blue. 

This colour produces very little effect in distem- 

fier, ' ut it is not very favourable to the play of the 
ight; oXiX. it, soon acquires brilliancy and splendour 
beneath the vitreous lamina of the varnish. Paint- 
ing in distemper, when carefully varnished, pro- 
duces a fine effect. 

To make Pi-ussian blue pai:it. 

The ceruse is ground with oil, if for varnish 
made with essence, or merely with essence, which i 
is equally proper for oil painting; and a quantity of 
eitner of these blues sumcient to produce the re- 
quired tone is added. 

For varnish, the ceruse is generally ground with 
oil of pinks added to a little essence, and is mixed 
up with camphorated mastic varnish, if the colour 
is destined for delicate objects; or with gallipot 
varnish if for wainscoting. This colour, when 
gtound and mixed up with drying oil, produces a 
fine effect, if covered by a solid varnish made with 
alcohol or essence. 

If this oil colour be destined for expensive arti- 
cles, such as valuable furniture subject to friction, 
it may be glazed with the turpentine copal var- 
nish. 

To make Saxon blue. 

Saxon blue, a vitreous matter coloured by oxide 
of cobalt, gives a tone of colour different from that 
of the prussiate of iron and indigo. It is employed 
for sky-blues. The case is the same w ith blue ver- 
siiter, a preparation made from oxide of copper and 



lime. Both these blue* stand well in distemper, 
in varnish, and in oil. 

Saxon blue requires to be ground with dtying 
oil, and to be mixed with gallipot varnish. If in- 
tended for oil painting, it is to be mixed up with 
resinous drying oil, which gives body to this vitre- 
ous matter. 

To make blue vei^diter. 

This may be ground with pure alcoholic varnish 
added to a little essence; and may be mixed up 
with compound mastic varnish if the colour is to 
be applied to delicate articles. Or mastic gallipot 
varnish, added to a little drying oil, may be used 
for grinding, and common gallipot varnish for 
mixing up, if the painting is intended for ceilings, 
wainscoting, &c. This colour is soft and dull, 
and requires a varnish to heighten the tone of it, 
and give it play. Turpentine copal varnish is pro- 
per for this purpose, if the article has need of a 
durable varnish. 

To make green colour. 

Every green colour, simple or compound, when 
mixed up with a whi.e ground, becomes soft, and 
gives a sea-green of greater or less strength, and 
more or less delicate, in the ratio of the respective 
quantities of the principal colours. Thus, green 
oxides of copper, such as mountain green, verdi- 
gris, dry crystallized acetate of copper, green com- 
posed with blue verditer, and the Dutch pink of 
Troyes, or any other yellow, will form, with a base 
of a white colour, a sea green, the intensity of which 
may be easily changed or modified. The white 
ground for painting in distemper is generally com- 
posed ofBougival white (white marl), or white of 
Troyes (chalk), or Spanish white, (pure clay); but 
for varnish or oil painting, it is sought for in a me- 
tallic oxide. In this case, ceruse or pure wliite 
oxide of lead is employed. 

To make sea green for distemper. 

Grind separately with water, mountain green and 
ceruse; and mix up with parchment size and water 
adding ceruse in sufficient quantity to produce the 
degree of intensity required in the colour. Watin 
recommends the use of Dutch pink of Troyes s.nd 
white o'tide of lead, m proportions pointed out by 
experience ; because the colour thence resulting is 
more durable. 

In the case of a triple composition, begin to make 
the green by mixing Dutch pink with blue verdi- 
ter, and tlien lower tlie colour to sea green, by the 
addition of ceruse ground with water. 

To make sea green for varnish and oils. 

Varnish requires that this colour should possess 
more body than it has in distemper; and this it ac- 
quires from the oil which is mixed with it. This 
addition even gives it more splendour. Besides, a 
green of a metallic nature is substituted for the 
green of the Dutch pink, which is of a vegetable 
nature. 

A certain quantity of verdigris, pounded and 
sifted through a silk sieve, is ground separately 
with nut oil, half drying and half fat; and if the 
colour is intended for metallic surfaces, it must be 
diluted with camphorated mastic, or gallipot var- 
nish. 

On the other hand, the ceruse is ground with es- 
sence, or with oils to which one halt of essence has 
been added, and the two colours are mixed in pro- 
portions relative to the degree of intensity intended 
to be given to the mixture. It may readily be con- 
ceived that the principal part of this composition 
consists of Ceruse. 

If this colour be destined for articles of a certain 
value, crystalliit'il verdig.is, dried and pulverized, 
ouirht tolje subsliuied for common verdi_, io, and 
the painting must bo covered with a stratum of tho 
transuarent or turpentine copal varnish. 



OIL AND WATER COLOURS. 



39 



The sea-greens, ■which admit into their compo- 
sition metallic colouring parts, are durable and do 
not change. 

The last compositions may be employed for sea- 

freen in oil painting; but it will be proper to 
Tighten the tone a little more than when varnish 
is used; because this colour becomes darker by the 
addition of yellow which the oil developes in the 
course of time. 

Green for doors, shutters, hahistrades, and arti- 
cles exposed to the air. 

Ceruse is the principal base of this colour. 
When it is required to bring it to the tone most 
agreeable, grind, with nut-oil, two i>arts of ceruse, 
and with essence of turpentine one part of verdi- 
gris. Then mix up the two colours with one half 
of common drying nut-oil, and one half of resinous 
drying nut-oil. This colom* appears at first to be 
a pale blue ; but the impression of the light soon 
makes it pass to g^een, and in this state it is very 
dui'able. 

The doses of the ceruse ought to be can-ied to a 
third more, when the colour is intended to be em- 
ployed in the centre of large cities: without this 
precaution it acquires a gloomy tone, which leads 
to a blackish green. This effect arises from the 
thick atmosphere, and the exhalations which viti- 
ate the air in large cities. In these cases white ' 
ought to be preferred to yellow, as the ground to a 
green colour. The custom among painters is to 
make the first coating yellow. 

To make compound green for rooms. 

Take two pounds of ceruse, four ounces of Dutcli 
pink of Troyes, and one ounce of Prussian blue or 
indigo. This mixture produces a green, the in- 
tensity of which may be increased or diminished 
fay the addition of yellow or blue. Grind with oil, 
to which a fourth part of essence has been added, 
and mix up with camphorated mastic or gallipot 
varnish. Both these contribute to the durability 
of the colour. If it be required to destroy the 
smell of the turpentine, form a glazing with com- 
pound mastic varnish. 

To make a green for articles exposed to friction, as 
■wheels of carriages, &c. 

The great wear to which carriages are exposed 
by friction and continual washing, requires that a 
durable varnish should be employed when they are 
painted. \Vliatever care may be taken by coach- i 
men, it is impossible that continual rubbing with 
a mop or sponge, which becomes filled with earthy 
particles, should not '^roduce an alteration in the: 
best varnish. To render the work solid, first ap- 
ply a ground composed of boiled linseed oil, ceruse 
previously dried over a pretty strong fire, to make 
it lose the white, and a little white vitriol, in a 
dose of a quarter of an ounce to each pound of mat- 
ter. The second stratum must be composed of the 
preceding green colour, viz. two parts of ceruse, 
and one part of verdigris, pulverized and ground 
■with boiled nut-oil, added to a fourth part of fat 
oil of pirks, and mixed up with drying oil. The 
third stratum consists of the same coloiu" mixed 
np with camphorated copal varnish. 

To make red for the bodies of carriages. 

Artists differ in regard to the composition of 
the first strata- Matin recommends red de Bern, 
(akind of argillaceous ochre, mixed with litharge^ 
Others prefer red oxide of lead. Either of these 
substances m-riy be employed, as the artist finds 
most convenient. Take one-tiiird of these bases 
for the first stratum, adding a little litharge, 
ground on porphvry, if red de Berri be used. 
Grind with oil, half fat and half drying, and mix 
up with drying oil. The second stratum siiould 
be red oxide of lead, gi'ound with dr3'ing oil, added 
«o one. half of essence. The tliird ought to be 



composed in tfie same manner, but with T«rmil- 

ion. Now glaze the whole with fat copal varnish, 
heightened with a little vermilion, and hasten the 
desiccation of the varnish by exposure to the sun, 
or to a strong current of air. 

The red is often prepared, from motives of 
economy, with red oxide of lead, without ver- 
milion. 

To paint in varnish on tvood. 

Lay on the wood two coats of Troyes whi^e, di 
luted with size water. Next, lay over tnese a 
third coat of ceruse, tlien mix the colour wanted 
with turpentine oil; add the varnish to it, and lay 
it on the wood, previously prepared as follows: — 

Polish the wood first with shave-|rass or horse- 
tail, and then with pounce-stone. Lay afterwards 
six or seven coats of colour, mixed with varnish, 
allowing after each coat, a sufficient time to dry, 
before laying on the next; then polish over the last 
coat with pounce-stone, ground on marble into a 
subtle powder. When this is done, lay two or 
three coats of pm-e white varnish. As soon as this 
is dry, rub it over with a soft rag, dipped in fine 
olive oil; then rub it with tripoli, reduced to sub- 
tle powder, and having wiped it with a clean 
piece of linen, pass a piece of wash leather all 
over it. 

To make red for cuffets. 

Varnish with vermilion is not confined merely 
to the wheels and bodies of carriages; it often 
forms the ground; and in this case it ought to be 
treated in the same manner. It requires, however, 
a little more labour. After the first stratum is ap- 
plied, it is rubbed with pumice-stone; the varnish 
is then laid on, at several times, and polished. 
Grind with boiled oil, added to essence, red oxide 
of lead, aMl mix up with gallipot varnish. The 
second stratum is formed of vermilion, heighten- 
ed with a small particle of Naples yellow. Then 
apply a third stratum of the varnish of the second, 
a little charged with vermilion. This varnish is 
very durable, and is susceptible of a fine polish. 
To make bright red. 

A mixture of lake with vermilion gives that 
beautiful bright red which painters employ for the 
sanguine parts. This red is sometimes imitated 
for varnishing small appendages of the toilette. It 
-"ught to be ground with varnish, and mixed up 
with the same, after which it is glazed and polish- 
ed. The mastic gallipot varnish is used for grind- 
ing; gallipot varnish for mixing up; and campho- 
rated mastic varnish for glazing. 

To make crimson, or rose colour. 

Carminated lake, that which is composed ot 
alum, charged with the colouringpart of cochineal, 
ceruse, and carmine, forms a beautiful crimson. 
It requires a particle of vex-milion and of white lead. 

The use of this varnish is confined to valuable 
articles. 

To make violet colour. 

Violet is made indifferently with red and blacs, 
or red and blue; and to render it more splendid, 
with red, white, and blue. To compose violet, 
therefore, applicable to varnish, take minium, or 
what is still better, vermilion, and grind it with 
the camphorated mastic varnish, to which a fourth 
part of boiled oil, and a little ceruse have been 
added: then add a little Prussian blue, ground in 
oil. The proportions requisite for the degree of 
intansity to be given to the colour will soon be 
found by experience. The white brightens the 
tint. 'I'he vermilion and Prussian bme, separate 
or mixed, give hard tones, whicli must be soften- 
ed by an intermediate substance, that modifies, to 
their advantage, the reflections of the light. 
To make chesnut colour. 

This colour is composed of red, yellow, and 



40 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



slack. The English red, or red ochre of Au- 
vergne, ochre de rue, and a little black, form a 
dark chesimt colour. It is proper tor painting of 
every kind. If English red, which is dryer than 
that of Auvergne, be employed, it will be proper, 
when the colour is intended for vai-nish, to grind 
it with drying nut oil. Tlie ochre of Auvergne 
may be ground with the mastic gallipot, and mixed 
up with gallipot varnish. 

The most experienced artists g^ind dark co- 
lours with linseed oil, when tae situation will ad- 
mit of its being used, because it is more di-ying. 
For articles without doors nut oil is preferable. 
The colours of oak-wood, walnut-tree, chesnut, 
olive, and yellow, require the addition of a little 
litharge ground on porphyry; it hastens the desic- 
cation of the colour, and gives it body. 

But if it is intended to cover these colours with 
varnish, as is generally done in wainscoting, they 
must be mixed up with essence, to which a little 
oil has been added. The colour is then much bet- 
ter disposed to receive the varnish, under wiiich it 
exhibits all the splendour it can derive from the 
reflection of tlie light. 

To make a dryer for painting. 

Vitreous oxide of lead (litharge), is of no other 
use in painting than to free oils from their greasy 
particles, for the purpose of communicating to 
them a drying quality. Red litharge, however, 
ought to be preferi'ed to the greenish yellow: it is 
not so hard, and answers better for the purpose to 
■which it is destined. 

When painters wish to obtain a common colour 
of the ochrey kind, and have no boiled oil by them, 
they may paint with linseed oil, not freed from its 
greasy particles, by mixing with the colour about 
two or three parts of litharge, ground on a piece 
of porphyry with water, dried, and reduced to fine 
powder, for 16 parts of oil. The colour lias a 
great deal of boay, and dries as speedily as if 
mixed with drying oil. 

Siccitive oil. 

Boil together for two hours on a slow and equal 
fire, half an ounce of litharge, as much calcined 
ceruse, and the same of terre d'ombre and talc, 
with one pound of linseed oil, carefully stirring 
the whole time. It must be carefully skimmed 
and clarified. The older it grows the better it is. 
A quarter of a pint of this dryer is required to 
every pound of colour. 

To make cheap beautiful green paint. 

The cost of this paint is less than one-fourth of 
oil colour, and the beauty far superior. Take 4 
pounds of Roman vitriol, and pour on it a tea-ket- 
tle full of boiling water; when dissolved, add 2 
pounds of pearl ash, and stir the mixture well 
with a stick, until the effervescence cease: then 
add a quarter of a pound of pulverized yellow ar- 
senic, and stir the whole together. Lay it on with 
a paint brush, and if the wall has not been painted 
before, two, or even three coats will be requisite. 
To paint a common sized room with this colour, 
will not cost more than 5 or 6 dollars. If a pea- 
green is required, put in less, and if an apple- 
green more, of the yellow arsenic. 
To paint in fresco. 

It is performed with water-colours on fresh 
plaster; or a wall laid with mortar not dry. This 
sort of painting has a great advantage by its incor- 
porating with the mortar, and, drying along with 
it, becomes very durable. 

The ancients painted on stucco; and we may 
remark in Vitruvius, what infinite care tliey took 
in making the plastering of their buildings, to ren- 
der them beautiful and lasting; though tlie modern 
painters tiud a plaster of lime and sand preferable 
to it. 



To paint fire places and hearths. 
The Genevese employ a kind of stone, know3» 
under the name of molasse, for constructing fire- 
places and stoves, after the German manner. This 
stone is brought from Saura, a village of Savoy^ 
near Geneva. It has a greyish colour, inclining 
to blue, which is veiy agi-eeable to the eye. This 
tint is similar to that communicated to common 
white-washing with lime, chalk, or gyi)sum, the 
dulness of which is corrected by a particle of blue 
extract of indigo, or by charcoal black. 

To make red distemper for tiles. 
Dip a brush in water from a common ley, or m 
soapy water, or in water charged with a 2^th part 
of the carbonate of potash (alkali of potash), and 
draw it over the tiles. This washing thoroughly 
cleanses them, and disposes all the parts of the 
pavement to receive the distemper. 

When dry, dissolve in 8 pints of water half a 
pound of Flanders glue; and while the mixture is 
boiling, add two pounds of red ochre; mix the 
whole with great care. Then apply a stratum ol 
this mixture to the pavement, and when dry apply 
a second stratum with drying linseed oil, and a 
third with the same red, mixed up with size. 
When the whole is dry, rub it with wax. 
To distemper in badigeon. 
Badigeon is employed for giving an uniform tint 
to houses rendered brown by time, and to churches. 
Badigeon, in general, has a yellow tint. That 
which succeeds best is composed of the sav^-dust 
or powder of the same kind of stone, and slacked 
lime, mixed up in a bucket of water, holding in 
solution a pound of the sulphate of alu.nina, (alum). 
It is applied with a brush. 

At Paris, and in other parts of France, where 
the large edifices are constructed of a soft kind of 
stone, which is yellow, and sometimes white, v/hea 
it comes from the quarry, but which in time be» 
comes brown, a little ochre de rue is substituted 
tor the pow der of the stone itself, and restores to 
tlie edifice its original tint. 

To make red lead. 
Fuse a quantity of lead upon a hearth, and work 
it about with an iron wet, till the calx acquires a 
yellow colour. Then grind it small with water at 
a mill, constructed for the purpose; and well wash 
it to deprive it of small lumps, whicli may I'emaiu 
uncalcined. Put this massicot, well dried, into stone 
pots, which are placed horizontally in the colour 
furnace, fill them something raore than a quarter 
full, and heat them till they acquire a red colour; 
place a brick at the mouth of each pe' to i^onfine 
the heat; but remove it occasionally to vrork the 
matter about. By continuing this lieat a sufficient 
time, the colour will become finer till the minium 
is perfect. 

Bed lead from lead, and also from litharge, is 
not so good as the former, on account of the scoria 
of other substances mixed with the litharge. The 
makers of flint-glass, who use much red lead in 
their glass, find that it does not flux so well as that 
made from the direct oxidation of the metal, as prao 
tised in the county of Derby. Those furnaces are 
like a baker's oven, with a low vaulted roof, and 
two party-walls, risiug from their floor, wJiicb 
leave a middle space, where the pit-coal is burned- 
the flame being drawn over the party-walls, strikes 
on the roof, and is thence reflected ou each side, by 
which the lead there is kept melted. The surfaifi 
of lead, by its exposition to air, becomes instantly 
covered with a dusty pellicle, which is successively 
removed; tiie greater part of the metal is thus con- 
verted into ayellowish-gree.n powder, which isafter- 
wards ground fine in a mill, and washed; the he- 
terogeneous particles of lead, still remaining, are 
8ep£u-ated by passing the wash through sieves; tlaa 



OIL AND WATER COLOURS. 



4. 



j&llow colour becomes uniform, and is called mas- 
sicot, by the painters. The yellow oxide, well 
CU-ied, is thnwn as^ain into the furnace, whei-e it 
IS constantly stirred in a continual heat; so that in 
about 48 hours, this oxide acquires a vivid red, in- 
clininj^to orange colour, and is known by the name 
of minium, or red lead. 

The red lead made in France is of a consider- 
ably worse quality than what is made in England 
or Holland. A ton of lead generall)' gives twenty- 
two hundred M-eight of minium. It is said, that at 
Nuremberg the inci-eased weight of red lead 
amounts to one-fifth of the metal; this may pio- 
bably depend on the method employed, as Watson 
thinks. Neumann says, that the best Venetian 
minium is made from ceruse, or white lead. 
To make a composition, for rendering canvas, lin- 
en, and cloth, durable, pliable, and -water-proof. 
To make it black. 

First, the canvas.^ linen, or cloth, is to be wash- 
ed with hot or cold water, the former preferable, 
so as to discharge the stiffening which all new can- 
vas, linen, or clotli contains; when the stiffening is 
perfectly dischargee', hang the canvas, linen, or 
cloth up to dry; when perfectly' so, it must be con- 
stantly rubbed by the hand until it becomes supple; 
It must then be stretched in a hollow frame very 
tight, and th^ following ingredients are to be laid 
on with a brusli for the first coat, viz. eight quarts 
of boiled hnseed oil, half an ounce of burnt umber, 
a quarter ot an ounce of sugar of lead, a quarter of 
an ounce of wliite vitriol, a quarter of an ounce of 
■white lead. 

The above uigredients, except the white lead, 
must be ground fine with a small quantity of the 
above-mentioned oil, on a stone and muUer; then 
mix all the ingredients up with the oil, and add 3 
oz. of lamp-black, which must be put over a slow 
fire in an iron broad vessel, and kept stirred until 
the grease disappears. In consequence of the can- 
vas being washed and then rubbed, it v/ill appear 
rough and nappy: the following method must be 
taken with the second coat, viz. the same ingredi- 
ents as before, except the white lead; this coat will 
set in a few hours, according to the weather; when 
set, take a dry paint-bi'ush and work it very hard 
with the grain of the canvas; this will cause the 
nap to lie smuoth. 

The third and last coat makes a complete jet 
black, which continues its colour: — take three gal- 
lons of boiled linseed oil, an ounce of burnt umber, 
iialfan ounce of sugar of lead, a quarter of an ounce 
of white vitriol, half an ounce of Prussian blue, 
and a quarter of an ounce of verdigris; this must 
be all ground very fine in a small quantity of the 
above oil, tlien add four ounces of lamp-black, put 
tlirough the same process of fire as the first coat. 
The above are to be laid on and used at discretion, 
in a similar way to paint. To make lead colour, 
the same ingredients as before in making the black, 
with the addition of white lead, in proportion to 
the colour you wish to have, light or dark. 
To make it green. 

Yellow ochre, four ounces, Prussian blue, three 
quarters of an ounce, wliite lead, three ounces, 
white vitriol, half an once, sugar ot lead, a quarter 
of an ounce, p'ood boiled linseed oil suflifient to 
make it of a thin quality, so as to go through the 
canvas. 

To make it yellow. 

Yellow ochre, four ounces, burnt umber, a quar- 
ter of an ounce, wiilte lead, six or seven ounces, 
white vitriol, a quarter of an ounce, sugar of lead, 
a quarter of an ounce, boiled linseed oil, as in 
green. 

To make it red. 

lied lead, four ounces, vermilion, two ounces, 



white vitriol, a quarter of an ounce, sngar of lead, 

a quarter of an ounce, boiled linseed oil as before. 

7'o make it grey. 

Take white lead, a little Prussian blue, accord- 
ing to the quality you want, which will turn it to 
a grey colour; a proportion of sugar of lead and 
white vitriol, as mentioned in the other colours, 
boiled linsaed oil suflicioit to make it of a thin 
quality. 

To make it white. 

Wliite lead, four pounds, spirits of turpentine, a 
quarter of a pint, white vitriol, half an omice, 
sugar of lead, half an ounce, boiled oil sufllcient to 
make it of a thin quality. 

The above ingredients, of different colours, are 
calculated as near as possible; but, as one article 
may be stronger than another, wliich will soon be 
discovered in using, in that case tlie person work- 
ing; the colour may add a little, or diminish, as he 
may find necessary. 

The same preparation for wood or iron, only re- 
ducing the oil aijout three quarts out of eight, and 
to be applied in the same manner as paint or var- 
nish, with a brush. 



ARTISTS' OIL COLOURS. 

On colouring materials. 
The composition of colours as respects those 
leading tests of excellence, preservation of general 
tints, and permanency of brilliant hues, during 
their exposure tor many centuries to the impairing 
assaults of the atmosphere, is a preparation in 
wliich the ancient preparers of these oily com- 
pounds, have very much excelled, in their skilful- 
ness, the moderns. It is a fact, that the ancient 
painted walls, to be seen at Dendaras, although 
exposed for many atjes to the open air, without 
any covering or protection, still possess s perfect 
brilliancy of colour, as vivid a?, when painted, per- 
ha|)s 2000 years ago. The Egyptians mixed their 
colours with some gammy substance, and applied 
them detaclied from each other, without any blend- 
ing or mixture. They appear to have used six co- 
lours, viz. white, black, blue, red, yellow, and 
green; they first covered the canvas entirely with 
white, upon which they traced the design in black, 
leaving out tlie lights of the ground colour. They 
used ijinium for red, and generally of a daric 
tinge. Piiny mentions some painted ceilings in 
his day in the town of Ardea, which had been ex- 
ecuted at a date prior to the foundation of Rome. 
He expresses great surprise and admiration at their 
freshness, after the lapse of so many centnrles. 
Tliese are, undoubtedly, evidences of the excel- 
lences of the ancients in their art of preparing co- 
lours. In the number of them, there is, probably, 
not much difference between the ancient and mo- 
dern knowledge. The ancients seem to have been 
possessed of some colours of which we are igno- 
rant, while they were unacquainted, themselves, 
with some in those more recently discovered. The 
improvements of chemistry have, certainly, in later 
times, enriched painting with a profusion of tints, 
to which, in poiiit of brilliancy at least, no combina- 
tion of primitive colours known to the ancients could 
pretend; but the rapid fading in the colours ot 
some of the most esteemed masters of the Modern 
School, proves, at least, there is something defec- 
tive in their bases, or mode of preparing them. 
This fault is peculiarly evident in many of the pro- 
ductions from onr esteemed master. Sir Joshua 
Reynolds, wliich, although they have not issued 
from his (jallet more th^n 40 years, carry an im- 
poverishment of surface, fiom tiie premature fad- 
iiicr of their colours, so as almost to lose, in many 

2)2 ^ 



42 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK, 



instances, the identity of the subjects they ropre- 
sent. On this head, (ami a most important one it is), 
the superioriiy of the ancient compounders com- 
pletely carries away the palm of merit. 
To prepare ultramarine. 

Separate from th^ stone the most apparent parts 
of the ultramarine; reduce them to the size of a 
pea, and, having brought them to a Fed heat in a 
crucible, thro\y them in that state, into the strong- 
est distilled vinegar. Then grind them with the 
vinegar, and reduce them to an impalpable powder; 
ne}£t take of wax, red colophonium, and lapis lazuli, 
an equal quantity, say half an ounce of each of 
these three substances ; melt the wax and the co- 
lophonium in a proper vessel, and add the powder 
to the melted matter, then pour the mass into cold 
water, and let it rest eight days. Next take two 
glass vessels filled with water, as hot as the hand 
can bear, knead the mass in the water, and when 
that the purest part of the ultramarine has been ex- 
tracted, remove the resinous mass into the other 
vessels, where finish the kneading to separate the 
remainder; if the latter portion appears to be much 
inferior, and paler than the former, let it rest for 
four days, to facilitate the precipitation of the ul- 
tramarine, which extractbydecantation, and wash 
it in fair water. 

Ultramarine of four qualities may be separated 
by this process. The first separation gives the 
finest, and as the operation is repeated, the beauty 
of the powder decreases. 

Kinckel considers immersion in vinegar as the 
essential part of the operation. It facilitates the 
division, and even the solution of the 'zeolitic and 
earthy particles soluble in that acid. 

Another method. — Separate the blue parts, and 
reduce them, on a piece of porpiiyry, to an impal- 
pable powder, which besprinkle with linseed oil, 
then make a paste with equal parts of j'ellow wax, 
pine resin, and colophonium, say, eight, ounces of 
each; and add to this pasSe, half an ounce of lin- 
seed oil, two ounces of oil of turpentine, and as 
much pure mastic. 

Then take four parts of this mixture, and one of 
.apis lazuli, ground with oil on a piece of porphy- 
ry, mix the whole warm, and suffer it to digest 
for a month, at the end of which, knead the mix- 
ture thoroughly in warm water, till the blue part 
separates from it, and at the end of some days de- 
cant the liquor. This ultramarine is exceedingly 
beautiful. 

These two processes are nearly similar, if we 
except the preliminary preparation of Kinckel, 
whicli consists in bringing the lapis lazuli to a red 
heat and immersing it in vinegtfr. It may he rea- 
dily seen, b}' the judicious observations of Mor- 
graffon the nature of this colouring part, that tliis 
calcination may be hurtful to certain kinds of 
azure stone. This preliminary operation, how- 
ever, is a test which ascertains the purity of t.he 
ultramarine. 

To extract the remainder of ultramarine. 

As this matter is valuable, some portions of ul- 
tramarine may be extracted from the paste which 
has been kneaded in water; nothing is necessary 
but to mix it with four times its weight of linseed 
oil, to pour the matter into a. glass of conical form, 
and to expose the vessel in the balneum marice of 
an alembic. The water of which must be kept in 
a state of ebullition for several hours. The liquidi- 
ty of the mixture allows the ultramarine to sepa- 
rate itself, and the supernatant oil is decanted. 
The same immersion of the colouring matter in 
oil is repeated, to separate the resinous psrts 
■syhioh still adhere to it; and the operation is finish- 
ed by boiling it in water to separate the oil, l"he 



deposit is ultramarine; but it is inferior to that '' 
separated by the first washing. 
To ascertain whether ultramarine be adulterated. 
As the price of ultramarine, which is already 
veiy high, may become more so on account of the 
difficulty of obtaining lapis lazuli, it is of great 
importance that painters should be able to detect 
adulteration. Ultramarine is pure if, when brought 
to a red heat in a crucible, it stands that trial with- 
out changing its colour; as small quantities only 
are subjected to this test, a comparison may be 
made, at very little expense, with the part which 
has not been exposed to the fire. If adulterated, 
it becomes blackish or paler. 

This proof, however, may not always be con- 
clusive. When ultramarine of the lowest quality 
is mixed with azure, it exhibits no more body than 
sand ground on porphyry would do; ultramarine 
treated with oil assumes a brown tint. 

Anot/iei' method. — Ultramarine is extracted ft om 
lapis lazuli, or azure stone, a kind of heavy zeo- 
lite, which is so hard as to strike tire with steel, 
to cut glass, and to be susceptible of a line polish- 
It is of a bright blue colour, variegated with white 
or yellow veins, enriched with small metallic 
glands, and even veins of a gold colour, which are 
only sulphurets of iron (martial pyrites): it breaks 
irregularly. The specimens most esteemed are 
those charged with the greatest quantity of blue. 

Several artists have employed their ingenuity on 
processes capable of extracting ultramarine in its 
greatest purity: some, however, are contented with 
separating the uncoloured portions of the stone, 
reducing the coloured part to an impalpable pow- 
der, and then grinding it for a long time with oil 
ofpoppies. But it is certain that, inconsequence 
of this ineffectual method, the beauty of the colour 
is injured by parts which are foreign to it: and 
that it does not produce the whole effect which 
ought to be expected from pure ultramarine. 

It may l)e readily conceived that the eminent 
qualities of ultramarine must have induced those 
first acquainted with the processes proper for in- 
creasing the merit and value of it, to keep them a 
profound secret. This was indeed the case; ultra- 
marine was prepared long before any account ot 
tlie method of extracting and purifying it was 
known. 

To prepare cobalt blue. — Ble^i de Thenard. 
Having reduced the ore to powder, calcine it in 
a reverberatory furnace, stirring it frequently. 
The chimney of the furnace should have a strong 
draught, in order that trie calcination may be 
perfect, and the arsenical and sulphurous acid va- 
pours may be carried off". The calcination is to 
be continued until these vapours cease to be disen- 
gaged, which is easily ascertained by collecting in 
a ladle a little of the gas in the furnace; the pre- 
sence or absence of the g-arlic odour determines 
the fact. When calcined, boil the result slightly 
in an excess of weak nitrous acid, in a glass ma- 
trass, decant the supernatant liquor, and evaporate 
the solution thus obtained, nearly to dryness, in a 
capsule of platino or porcelain. This residuum is 
to be thrown into boiling water and filtered, and a 
solution of the sub-phosphate of soda to be poured 
into the clear litpior, v;hich precipitates an insolu- 
ble phosphate of cobalt. After washing it well on 
a filter, collect it -while yet i?i a gelatinous form, 
and mix it intimately, with eight times its weight 
of alumine, iti tne same state — if properly done, 
the paste will have a uniform tint, through its 
whole mass. This mixture is now to be spread on 
smooth plates and put into a stove; when dry and 
brittle, pound it in a mortar, enclose it in a cover- 
ed earthen crucible, and heat it to a cherry red, 



ARTISTS' on. COLOURS, 



43 



fornalf an hour. On opening the crucible, if the 
opfiraiion has been carefully conducted, the beau- 
tiful and desired product will be found. Care 
should be taken tliat the alumine in the gelatinous 
^orm, be precipitated from the alum by a sufficient 
excess of ammonia, and that it is completely puri- 
fied by washing with water filtered tlirough char- 
coal. 

To make artificial Saxon blue. 

Saxon blue may be successfully imitated, by 
mixing with a divided earth prussiate of iron, at 
the moment of its formation and precipitation. 

Into a solution of 144 grains of sulphate of iron, 
pour a solution of prussiate of potash. 

At the time of the formation of iron, add, in the 
same vessel, a solution of two ounces of alum, and 
pour in with it, the solution of potash, just suffi- 
cient to decompose the sulphate of alumine; for a 
dose of alkali superabundant to the decomposition 
of that salt might alter the prussiate of iron. It 
will, therefore, be much better to leave a little 
alum, which may afterwai'ds be carried off by 
washing. 

As soon as tlie alkaline liquor is added, the alu- 
mine precipitated becomes exactly mixed witli the 
prussiate of iron, the intensity of which it lessens 
by bringing it to the tone of common Saxon blue. 
The matter is then thrown on a filter, anf* after 
being waslied in clean water, is dried. This sub- 
stance is a kind of blue verditer, the intensity of 
which may vary according to the greater or less 
quantity of the sulphate of alumine decomposed. 
It may be used for painting in distemper. 
To compose blue verditer. 

Dissolve the copper, cold, in nitric acid (aqua 
fortis), and produce a precipitation of it by means 
of quick-lime, emplo)'ed in such doses mat it will 
be absorbed by the acid, in order tliat the precipi- 
tate may be pure copper, that is, without any mix- 
ture. Wlien tlie liquor has been decanted, wash 
the piecipitate, and spread it out on a piece of 
linen cloth to drain. If a portion of this precipi- 
tate, whicli is green, be placed on a grinding stone, 
and if a little quick-lime in powder be added, the 
green colour will be immediately changed into a 
beautiful blue. The proportion of the lime added 
is frore seven to ten parts in a hundred. When 
the whole matter acquires the consistence of paste, 
desiccation soon takes place. 

Blue verditer is proper for distemper, and for 
varnish; but it is not fit for oil painting, as the oil 
renders it very dark. If used it ought to be bright- 
ened with a great deal of white. 

To make JVaples yellow. 

Take 12 ounces of ceruse, '2 ounces of the sul- 
phuret of antimony, half an ounce of calcined alum, 
1 ounce of sal ammoniac. 

Pulverize these ingredients, and having mixed 
them thorougiily, put them into a capsule or cru- 
cible of earth, and place over it a covering of the 
same substance. Expose it at first to a gentle heat, 
which must be gradually increased till the capsule 
is moderately red. The oxidation arising from 
this process requires, at least, tiiree hours' expo- 
sure to heat before it is completed. The result of 
this calcination is Xaples yellow, which is ground 
in wattr on a porphyry slab with an ivory spatuia, 
as iron would alter the colour. The paste is then 
dried and preserved for use. It is a yellow oxide 
of Itau atid antimony. 

Tlieie is no necessity of adhering so strictly to 
the doses as to prevent their being varied. If a 
goidi n culour be required in tlie yellow, the pro ■ 
poi lions of the sulphuret of antimony and muriate 
of aninioriiac must be increased. In like manner, 
il'you wish it to be more fusible, increase the quan- 



tities of sulphuret of antimony and calcined sul- 
phate of alumine. 

To make Montpel'der yeUow. 

Take 4 pounds of litharge, well sifted, divide it 
into four equal portions, and put it into as many 
glazed earthen vessels. Dissolve also 1 pound of 
sea salt in about 4 pounds of water. 

Pour a fourth part of this solution into each of 
the four earthen vessels, to form a light paste. Let 
the whole rest for some hours, and when the sur- 
face begins to grow white, stir the mass with a 
strong wooden spatula. Without tliis motion it 
would require too great hardness, and a part of the 
salt would escape decomposition. 

As the consistence increases, dilute the matter 
with a new quantity of the solution; and if this is 
not sufficient, recourse must be had to simple wa- 
ter to maintain the same consistence. The paste 
will then be very white, and in the course ot 
twenty-four hours becomes uniform and free from 
lumps; let it remain for the same space of time, 
but stir it at intervals to complete the decomposi- 
tion of the salt. The paste is then well washed to 
carry off^ the caustic soda (soda deprived of car- 
bonic acid) whlcii adlieres to it, the mass is put in- 
to strong linen cloth and subjected to a press. 

The remaining paste is distributed in flat vessels; 
and these vessels are exposed to heat, in order to 
effect a proper oxidation (calcination), which con- 
verts it into a solid, yellow, brilliant matter, some- 
times ciystallized in transverse strias. 

This is Montpellier yellow, which maybe ap- 
plied to the same pjrposes as Naples yellow. 
To prepare carmine. 

This kind of fecula, so fertile in gradations of 
tone by the eft'ect of mixtures, and so grateful to 
the eye in all its shades, so useful to the painter, 
and so agreeable to the delicate beauty, is only the 
colouring part of a kind of dried insect known un- 
der the name of cochineal. 

A mixture of 36 grains of chosen seed, 18 grains 
of autour bark, and as much alum thrown into a 
decoction of 5 grair^s of pulverized cochineal, and 
5 pounds of water, gives, at the end of from five to 
ten days, a red fecula, which when dried weighs 
from 40 to 48 grai..s. This fecula is carmine. The 
remaining decoction, which is still highly colour- 
ed, is reserved for the preparation of carminated 
lakes. 

To prepare Ihitch pink from -woad. 

Boil the steins of woad in alum water, and then 
mix the liquor with clay, marl or chalk, which 
will become charged with the colour of the de- 
coction. When the earthy matter has acquired 
consistence, form it into small cakes, and expose 
them to dry. It is under this form tliat the Dutch 
pinks are sold in the colour shops. 

Dutch pink from yelloxu berries. 

The small blackthorn produces a fruit which, 
when collected green, are called yellow berries. 
These seeds, when boiled in alum water, form a 
Dutch pink superior to the former. A certain 
quantity of clay, or marl, is mixed v.ith the decoc- 
tion, by which means, the colouring part of the 
berries unites with the earthy matter, and commu- 
nicates to it a beautiful yellow colour. 
lirownish yelhxu Diitc/i pink. 

Boil for an hour in 12 pounds ot water, 1 pound 
of yellow berries. 1-3 pound of the sriavings of the 
wood of the Barberry shrub, and I pound of wood- 
ashes. The decoction is strained tlirough a piece 
of linen cktii. 

Pour into this mixture warm, and at different 
times, a solution of '2 pounds of tlie sulpHale of 
alumine in 5 pounds of water; a slight tiAerves- 
cence will take place; and the sulpiiate be»ns de- 



44 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



composed, the alutnine, vhich is precipitated, will 
seize on the colouring part. Tlie liquor must then 
be filtered through a piece of close linen, and the 
paste which remainson the cloth, when dividel into 
square pieces, is exposed on boards to dry. This is 
brown Dutch pinis, because the clay in it is pure. 
The intensity of the colour shews the qu:\lity of 
this pink, which is superior to that of the other 
compositions. 

Dutch pink for oil painting. 

By substituting for clay a substance which pre- 
sents a mixture of that earth and metallic oxide, 
the result will be Dutch pink of a very superior 
kind. 

Boil separately 1 lb. of yellow berries, and 3 oz. 
of the sulphate of alumineia 12 pounds of water, 
■which must be reduced to 4 pounds. Strain the 
decoction through apiece of linen, and squeeze it 
strongly. Then mix up with it 2 pounds of ceruse, 
finely ground on porphyry, and 1 pound of pulver- 
ized Spanish white. Evaporate the mixture till 
the mass acquires the consistence of a paste; and 
havmg formed it into small cakes, dry them in the 
shade. 

When these cakes are dry, reduce them to pow- 
der, and mix them with a new decoction of yellow 
berries. By repeating this procesa a third time, a 
brown Dutch pink will be obtained. 

In general the decoctions must be warm when 
mixed with the earth. They ought not to be long 
kept, as their colour is speedily altered by tlie fer- 
mentation; care must be taken also to use a wooden 
spatula for stirring the mixture. 

When only one decoction of wood or yellow ber- 
ries is employed to colour a given quantity of earth, 
the Dutch pink resulting from it is of a briglit-yel- 
low colour, and is easily mixed for use. V\'hen the 
colouring part of several decoctions is absorbed, 
the composition becomes brown, and is mixed 
with more difficulty, especially if the paste be ar- 
gillaceous: for it is the property of this earih to 
unite with oily and resinous parts, adhere strongly 
to them, and incorporate with them. In the latter 
case, the artist must not be satisfied with mixing tlie 
colour: it ought to be ground, an operation etiLially 
proper for every kind of Dutch pink, and even the 
softest, when destined for oil painting. 

To make lake from Brazil tuood. 

Boil 4 oz. of the raspings of br?zil wood in 15 
pints of pure water, till the liquor is reduced to 2 
pints. It willbe of a dark red coloui , inclining to 
violet; but the addition of 4. or 5 oz. of aluro will 
give it a hue inclining to rose-colour. Wlien ide 
liquor has been strained through a piece of linen 
cloth if 4oz. ofthe carbonate of soda be added with 
caution, on account of the effervescence which 
takes place, the colour, which by this addition is 
deprived of its mordan*, will resume its former 
tint, and deposit a lake, which, when washed and 
properly dried, has an exceedingly rich and mel- 
low violet-red colour. 

Jlmtther. — IF only one half of the dose of mineral 
alkali be employed for this precipitation, the tint 
of the lake becomes clearer: because the bath still 
retains the undecoraposed aluminous mordant. 

Another. — If the method employed for Dutch 
pinks be followed by mixing the aluinmoas decoc- 
tion of Brazil wood with pure clay, such as Span- 
ish while and white of Morat, and if the mixture 
be deposited on a filter to receive the necessary 
washing, a lake of a very bright dark rose-colour 
will be oblained from the driers. 

Ijakes from other colouring sub-stances. 

By the same process a very beautiful lake maybe 
extracted from a decoction of logwood. In general, 
akes of all colours, and of all the shades of these co- 
.oux's, •>Jiay be <sj;tJ'aete'i from .substances which give 



up their colouring part to boiling ■water;becansp it i« 
afterwards commtmicated by decomposition to tVie 
alumine precipitated from sulphate of alumine, by 
ra^ans of an alkali; or the tincture may be mixed 
witli a I'ure and exceedingly white argillaceous sub 
stance, such as real Spanish white, or white ot 
Morat. 

To prepare rouge. 

Carmine united to talc, in different proportions, 
forms rouge employed for the toilette. Talc is 
distinguislied also by the name of Briancon chalk. 
It is a substance composed, in a great measure, ot 
clav, combined naturally with silex. 

Carmine, as well as carminated lakes, the co- 
louring part of which is borrowed from cochineal, 
are the most esteemed of all the compositions of 
this kind, because their colouring part maintains 
itself without degradation. There ai'o even casea 
where the addition of caustic ammonia, which al- 
ters so many colouring matters, is employed to 
heighten its colour. It is for this purpose that tlioae 
•who colour prints employ it. 

Cavmivated lake from madder. 

Boil I part of madder m from 12 to 15 pints of 
water, and continue the ebullition till it be reduced 
to about 2 lbs. Then strain the decoction through 
a piece of strong linen cloth, which must be well 
squeezed; and add to the decoction 4 ^z. of alum. 
The tint will be a beautiful bright red, which the 
matter will retain if it be mixed with jiroper clay. 
In this case, expose the thick liquor which ii thus 
produced, on a linen filter, and subject it to one 
washing, to remove the alum. The lake, when ta 
ken from the driers, will retain this bright primi- 
tive colour given by the alum. 

Another method. — It" in the process for making 
this lake, decomposition be employed, by mixing 
with the bath an alkaline liquor, the alum, which ia 
decomposed, deprives tlie bath of its mordant, and 
the lake, obtained after the subsequent wishings, 
appears ofthe colour of the madder bath, wilhoul 
any addition: it is of a reddisli bi'own. In iliis ope- 
ration 7 or 8 oz. of alum ought to be employed for 
each pound of madder. 

This kind of lake is exceedingly fine, but a 
brighter red colour may be given to it, by mix- 
ing'^the washed precipitate with alum water, before 
drying. 

Improvement on ditto. 

If the aluminated madder bath be sharpened 
with acetate of lead, or with arseniate of i)otash, 
the operator still obtains, by the addition of car- 
bonate of soda, a rose-coloured lake of greater or 
less strengih. 

To prepare a substitute for cochineal. 

7"he insects of the feverfew, or mother wort 
(matricaria parthenium), will produce a substance 
to replace cochineal, ia fine scarlet dyes. To de- 
tach the insects from the plants, without bruising 
them, and thereby losing the colouring matter, put 
a quantity, as sixteen pounds of stalks, in a case 
nearly air-tight, and heat it in an oven, which will 
suffocate the insects. This quantity will yield above 
a drachm of dried insects. In an instance where- 
in a comparison v.as made with cochineal, two 
similar pieces of woollen cloth were passed through 
the common mordant bath of muriate of tin, and 
then one of the ])ieces in a cochineal bath, and the 
other in a batii prepared v.'ith the mother-wort in- 
sects. The difference between the two dyes was 
scarcely perceptible, and they equally resisted the 
chemical re-agents. Nor were they destroyed by 
sulphuric acid, or oxygenated muriatic acid. 
To make dark red. 

Dragon's blood, infused warm in varnish, gives 
reds, more or less dark, according to the quantity 
of the coloarinar resin which combines with the 



ARTISTS' OIL COLOURS. 



45 



varnish. The artist, therefore, has it in his power 
to vary the tones at pleasure. 

Though cochineal, in a state of division, gives to 
essence very little colour in comparison with that 
vhich it communicates to water, oarmine may be 
introduced into the composition of varnish colour- 
ed by dragon's blood. Tlie result v ill be a pur- 
]5le red, from which various shades uuny be easily 
formed. 

To prepare violet 

A mixture of carminated varnish and dragon's 
blood, added tc that coloured by prussiate of iron, 
produces violet. 

7'o make a fine red lake. 

Boil stick-lac in Mater, filter the decoction, and 
evaporate the clear liquor to di-yness over a gentle 
fire. The occasion of this easy separation is, that 
the beautiful red colour here separated, adlieres 
only slightly to the outsides of the sticks iiroken off 
the trees along with the gum lac, and readily com- 
municates itself to boiling wati r. Some of this 
Sticking matter also adhering to tiie gum itself, it 
is proper to boil the whole together; for the gum 
does not at all prejudice the colour, nor dissolve in 
coiling water: so that after this operation the gum 
is as fit for making sealing-wax as before, and for 
all other uses which do not require its colour. 
To ?nake a beautiful red lake. 

Take any quantity of cocliineal, on which pour 
twice its weight of alcohol, and as much distilled 
M'ater. Infuse for some days near a gentle fire, 
and then filter. To the filtered liquor add a few 
drops of the solution of tin, and a fine I'ed precipi- 
tate will be formed. Continue T.o add a littJe so- 
lution of tin evei'y two hours, till the whole of the 
colouring matter is precipitated. Lastly, edulco- 
rate the precipitate by washing it in a large quan- 
tity of distilled water and then dry it. Monthly 
Magazine. 

To prepare Florentine lake. 

The sediment of cochineal that remains in the 
bottom of the kettle in which carmine is made, 
may be boiled with about four quarts of water, and 
the red liquor left after the preparation of the car- 
mine, mixed with it, and the whole precipitated 
with the solution of tin. The red precipitate must 
be frequently washed over witli water. Exclu- 
sively of this, two ounces of fresh cochineal, and 
one of crystals of tartar, are to be boiled with a 
sufficient quantity of water, poured off clear, and 
precipitated wiiii the solution of tin, and tiie pre- 
cipitate washed. At the same time two pounds of 
alum are also to be dissolved in water, precipitat- 
ed with a lixivium of potash, and the white earth 
repeatedly washed witli boiling water. Finally, 
both precipitates are to be mixed together in their 
liquid state, put upon a filter and dried. For the 
preparation of a cneaper sort, instead of cochineal, 
one pound of brazil wood may be employed in the 
preceding manner. 

To make a lake from madder. 

Inclose two ounces t''oy of the tinest Dutch mad- 
der in a bag of fine and strong calico, large enough 
to hold three or four times as much. Tut it into a 
large marble or porcelain mortar, and pour on it a 
pint of clear soft water cold. Press the bag in 
every direction, and pound and rub it about with a 
pestle, as much as can be done without tearing it, 
and when the water is loaded with celour, pour it 
off. Repeat this process till the water comes off 
but slightly tinged, for which about five pints will 
be suflicient. Heat all the liquor in an earthen or 
silver vessel, till it is near boiling, and then pom- 
it into a large basin, into which a troj ounce of 
alum, dissolved in a pint of boiling solt water, has 
been previously put: stir tlie mixture together, and 
while stirring, pour in gently about 1^ oz. of a sa- 



turated solution of sub-carbonate of potash, let it 
stand till cold, to settle; pour off the clear yello\r 
liqtior ; add to the precpitate a quart of boiling 
soft water, stirring it well; and wlicn cold, sepa- 
rate by hitration the lake, which should weigh half 
an ciunce. Fresh madder root is superior to the 
dry. 

To give various tones to laLe. 

A beautiful tone of violet, red, and even of pur- 
ple led, may be communicated to the colouring 
part of cochineal, by adding to the coloured bath a 
solution of tin in nitro-iauriatic acid. Tne effect 
will be greater, if, instead of this solution, one of 
oxygenated muriate of tin be employed. 

Another. — -riie addition of arseniate of potash 
(neutral arsenical salt), gives shades which would 
be sought for la vain with sulphate of alumine 
(slum). 

To make a camnvated lake by extracting the co- 
louring part from scarlet cloth. 

To prepare a carminated lake without employ- 
ing cochineal in a direct manner, by extracting the 
colouring matter from any substance impregnated 
with it, such as tlie shearings of scarlet cloth. 

Fat into a kettle 1 pound of fine wood ashes, 
with 40 pounds of water, and subject the water to 
ebullition for a quarter of an hour: then filter the 
solution through a piece of lineii cloth till the li- 
quor passes through clear. 

Place it on the fire ; and having brought it to a 
state of ebullition, add 2 lbs. of the shearings oi' 
shreds of scarlet cloth, dyed with cocliineal, 
which must be boiled till they become white ; 
then filter the liquor again, and press the shreds 
to squeeze out all the colouring part. 

Put the filtered liquor into a clean kettle, and 
place it over the tire. When it boils, pour in a 
solution of 10 or 12 ounces of alum in 2 pounds 
of filtered spring water. Stir the whole with a 
wooden spatula, till the froth that is formed is 
dissipated; and having mixed with it 2 lbs. of a 
strong decoction of Brazil wood, pour it upon a 
filter. Afterwards wash the sediment with spring 
water, and remove the cloili filter charged with 
it, to plaster diners, or to a bed of dry bricks. 
The result of this operation will be a beautiful lake, 
but it has not the soft, velvety appearance of that 
oljtained by the first method. Besides, the colour- 
ing part of the Brazil wood which unites to that of 
the cochineal in the shreds of scarlet cloth, lessens 
in a relative proportion the unalterability of the 
colouring part of the cochineal. For this reason 
purified potash ought to be substituted for the wood 
ashes. 

To make a red lake. 

Dissolve 1 lb. of the best pearl ashes in two 
quarts of water, and filter the liquor through pa- 
per; next add two more quart" of water and a pound 
of clean scarlet shreds, boil them in a pewter boil- 
er till the shreds have lost their scarlet colour ; 
take out the shreds and press them, and put the 
coloured water yielded by them to the other : In 
the same solution boil another pound of the shreds, 
proceeding in the same manner; and likewise a 
a third and fourth pound. Whilst this is doing, 
dissolve a pound and a half of cvittle-fish bone in a 
pound of strong aqua fortis in a glass receiver; add 
more of the bone if it appear to produce a'tiy ebulli- 
tion in the aqua fortis; and pour this strained solu- 
tion gradually into the other; but if any ebullition 
be occasioned, more of tlie cuttle-fish bone must 
be dissolved as before, and added till no ebullition 
appears in the mixture. The crimson sediment 
deposited by this liquor is the lake : pour off the 
wacer; and stir the lake in two gallons of hard 
spring water, and mix the sediment in two gallons 
of fresh water; let this method be repeated four or 



46 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



five times. If no hard water can be procured, or 
the laiie appears too purple, half an ounce of alum 
should be added to each quantity of water before 
It be used. Having thus sufficiently freed the lat- 
ter from the salts, drain oiF the water through a fil- 
ter, covered with a worn linen cloth. When it has 
been drained to a jjroper dryness, let it be dropped 
through a pr )per funnel on clean boards, aiul the 
drops will become small cones or pyramids, in 
which form the lake must be dried, and the pre- 
paration is completed. 

Another method. — Boil two ounces of cochineal 
in a pint of water, filter the solution through pa- 
per, and add two ounces of pearl-ashes, dissolved 
in half a pint of warm water, and filtered through 
paper. Make a solution of cuttle-bone as in the for- 
mer process; and to a pint of it add two ounces of 
alum dissolved in half a pint of water. Put this 
mixture gradually to the cochineal and pearl-ashes, 
as long as any ebuUiti onarises, and proceed as above. 
A beautiful lake may be prepared from Brazil 
wood, by boiling three pounds of it for an hour in 
a solution of three pounds of common salt in three 
gallons of water, and filtering tlie hot fluid through 
paper; add to this a solution of five pounds of alum 
in three gallons of water. Dissolve three pounds 
of the best pearl-ashes in a gallon and ahalf of wa- 
ter, and purify it by filtering; put this gradually to 
the other, till the whole of the colour appear to be 
precipitated, and the fluid be left clear and colour- 
less. But if any appearance of purple be seen, add 
a fresh quantity of the solution of alum by degrees, 
till a scarlet hue be produced. Then pursue the 
directions given in the first process with regard to 
the sediment. If half a pound of seed lac be add- 
ed to the solution of pearl ashes, and dissolved in 
it before its purification by the filter, and two 
pounds of the wood, and a proportional quantity of 
common salt and water be used in the coloured so- 
lution, a lake will be produced that will stand well 
in oil or water, but it is not so transparent in oil as 
without the seed lac. The lake with Brazil wood 
may be also made by adding half au ounce of an- 
natto to each pound of the wood; but the annatto 
must be dissolved in the solution of pearl-ashes. 

After the operation, the dryers of plaster, or the 
bricks, which have extracted the moisture from the 
precipitate, are exposed to the sun, that they may 
be fitted for another operation. 

To make Prussian blue. 
Previous to the making of this substance, an al- 
kali must be prepared as follows: viz. — Fixed al- 
kali must he burnt in ox's blood, or with horn 
shavings, or any other animal matter. The salt is 
now to be washed out. It is of an amber colour, 
and has the scent of peach blossoms. 

A solution of martial vitriol, and another of 
alum, are put together in a large glass, and the al- 
kaline ley poured upon them. A greenish preci- 
pitate is thrown down. The liquor is filtered in 
order to get the precipitate by itself, which is col- 
lected, and put into a glass cup. Upon pouring a 
little marine acid on this precipitate, it immediate- 
ly acquires a fine blue colour. This part of the 
process is called the brightening. 

Prussian blue may be made without alum, in the 
following manner: — Pour a little of the alkaline 
ley into a glass, drop in an acid till no farther ef- 
fervescence ensues. Let a little of the solution of 
martial vitriol be poured into the ley, and a fine 
Prussian blue is formed that needs no brightening. 
The common stone blues are Prussian blue, pre- 
cipitated on large quantities of clay. 

Another method. — A quantity of horns and hoofs 
are to be mixed with an equal weight of clippings 
of leather, and the whole submitted to distillation 
in a large iron retort fixed in a revcrberatory fur- 



nace; the oil and impure ammonia, resulting from 
this process, are collected in a receiver, and the 
distillation is carried on at a high heat, till no fluid 
or vapour of any kind come over- — the oil and al- 
kali are disposed of to a'ifi'erent manufacturers, and 
the black spongy coal remaining in the retort is the 
only part made use of in the preparation of the 
Prussian blue. 

I'eu pounds of this coal, and 30 pounds of com- 
mon potash, are reduced together to a coarse pow- 
der, and heated to redness in an iron pot; by de- 
grees the mass is brought into a state of serai-fu- 
sion, in which it is suffered to continue 12 hours, 
when the matter gives out a strong odour of sul- 
phur; it is then taken out red liot, and thrown into 
a boiler of water, where it undergoes ebullition 
f'lr about half an hour. The clear liquor is sepa- 
rated by filtration, ind the residue is boiled in 
fresh parcels of water, till all the saline matter is 
extracted. These different lixivia are then mixed 
together. Four lbs. of alum, and one and a half of 
sulphate of iron, are dissolved in warm water, and 
this solution is added to the former; a copious 
whitish precipitate is immediately deposited, 
which being collected and washed, acquires, by 
exposure to the air, a beautiful blue colour. 

Another. — Boil 6 pounds of clippings of leather, 
6 pounds of hoofs and horns, and 10 pounds of 
common potash, together in an iron pot to dry- 
ness; mix the residue with two pounds of crude 
tartar, and, by means of a strong tire, bring it into 
fusion. The lixiviation is conducted in the usual 
way, and a solution of 5 poundsof sulphate of iron, 
and 15 of alum being added, a precipitate takes 
place, which is the Prussian blue. 

Another. — This colour is made in the following 
manner: two parts of purified potass are most inti- 
mately blended with three parts of dried finely 
pulverized bullock's blood. 

The mass is first calcined in a covered crucible, 
on a moderate fire, until no smoke or flame ap- 
pears; and it is after this brought to a complete yet 
moderate ignition: or, equal parts of potass and 
finely-powdered coals, prepared from bones, horns, 
claws, &c. are mingled and heated in a covered 
crucible to a moderate redness. This done, either 
of these two calcined masses is, after cooling, lixi- 
viated with boiling water, and the lixivium filtered. 
Now make a solution of one part of green vitriol 
and two parts of alum; and add to> it, while yet 
hot, the above lixivium, little by little; and sepa- 
rate the greenish-blue precipitate, which then 
forms, by means of a filter. If, afterwards, a slight 
quantity of diluted muriatic acid is affused upon 
this precipitate, it assumes a beautiful dark blue 
colour. The operation is terminated by edulco- 
rating and drying the pigment thus prepared. 
To prepare a superb liquid blue. 

Put into a small matrass or common phial an 
ounce of fine prussiate of iron (Prussian blue) re- 
duced to powder, and pour over it from l^ oz. to 
2 oz. of concentrated muriatic acid. The mix- 
ture produces an effervescence, and the prussiate 
soon assumes the consistence of thin paste. Leave 
it in this state for 24 hours; then dilute it with 8 
or 9 ounces of water, and preserve the colour thus 
diluted in a bottle well stopped. 

The intensity of this colour may be lessened, if 
necessary, by new doses of water. If the whole of 
this mixture be poured into a quart of water; it 
will still exhibit a colour sufficiently dark for 
washing prints. 

This colour, charged with its mordant, requires 
the use of gum-water, made of gum tragacantli. 
Mucilage of ^m arable does not possess sufficient 
consistence. 

This coloiu", applied with gum-water, and co 



ARTISTS' OIL COLOURS 



47 



vered. when dry, with copal varnish, would form 
very beautiful foil. 

To make blue verdiler. 

Into 100 pounds of whiting, pour the copper- 
water, and stir them together every day for some 
hours, till the water grows pale; then pour that 
away, set it by for other use, and pour on more of 
the gi-een water, and so till the ver(Hter be made; 
which, being taken out, is laid on large pieces of 
chalk in the sun, till it be dry and fit for market. 

Another jnethod.—FaUy saturate the liquor 
which is used in parting with silver, whicli is pre- 
cipitated by adding very pure copper. This ni- 
trous solution of copper must be properly diluted 
witli very pure water; — distilled is the best; and 
the copper precipitated on chalk properly pre- 
pared. The colour and chalk must be well mixed 
together and properly dried. 

Another. — To a solution of nitrate of copper, 
add lime or lime-water, as long as any green pre- 
cipitate falls down. Filter the solution, and tlry 
the precipitate, which must be ground, and kept 
quite free from dust. The green colour will, by 
this time, be converted into a beautiful blue. 
To make blue. 

A diluted solution of sulphate of indigo. 
To make pink. 

Cochineal boiled with supertartrate of potash 
and sulphate alumine, or a decoction of Brazil 
wood with sulphate alumine; the colour may be 
varied by the addition of carbonate potash. 
To make green. 

The acetic copper (verdige) dissolved in acetous 
acid, forms an elegant green. 

To make purple. 

A decoction of Brazil wood and logwood af- 
fords, with carbonate of potash, a permanent 
purple. 

To make orange lake. 

Boil 4 ounces of the best aunatto and_ 1 pound of 
pearl ashes, half an hour, in a gallon of water, and 
strain the solution through paper. Mix gradually 
with this IJ lb. of alutr., in another gallon of wa- 
ter, desisting when no ebullition attends the com- 
mixture. I'reat the sediment in the manner al- 
ready directed for other kinds of lake, and dry it 
in square bits or lozenges. 

To make a yellow lake. 

Take a pound of tumieric root, in fine powder, 
3 pints of water, and an ounce of salt of tartar; 
put all into a glazed earthen vessel, and boil them 
together over a clear gentle fire, till the water ap- 
pears highly impregnated and stains a paper to a 
beautiful yellow. Filter this liquor, and gradually 
add to it a strong solution of roche alum, in water, 
till the yellow matter is all curdled and precipi- 
tated. After this, pour the whole into a filter of 
paper, and the water will run off, and leave the 
yellow matter behind. Wash it with fresh water, 
till the water comes offinsipid, and then i.s obtain- 
ed the beautiful yellow called lacmie of turmeric. 

In this manner make a lake of any of the sub- 
stances that are of a strong texture, as madder, log- 
wood, Jkc. but it will not succeed in the more ten- 
der species, as the flowers of roses, violets, &c. as 
it destroys the nice arrangement of parts in those 
subjects, on which the colour depends. 
3 b make another yellow lake. 

Make a ley of potashes and lime sufficiently 
strong; in this boil, gently, fresh broom-flowers, 
till they are white; then take out the dowers, and 
put the ley to boil in earthen vessels over the fire; 
add as much alum as the liquor will dissolve; then 
empty this ley into a vessel of clean water, and it 
will give a yellow colour at the bottom. Settle, 
and decant off the clear liquor. Wash tlws pow- 
der, which is found at the bottom, with more wa- 



ter, till all the salts of the ley are Avashed off; then 
separate the yellow matter, and dry it in the 
shade. ' 

To make a yellow. 

Gum guttce and terra merita give very beautiful 
yellows, and readily conimunicate their colour to ■ 
copal varnish, made with turpentine. Aloes give 
a varied and orange tint. 

Lemm yellow. 

A beautiful lemon yellow may be formed by fol- 
lowing the prescription of the old paiiUers, who 
mixed together the oxides of arsenic, (realgar and 
orpiment). But these colours, wliich may be imi- 
tated in another manner, have the disadvantage of 
being of a poisonous quality. It Avill, tlierefore, 
be better to substitute in tlieir room, Dutch pink 
of Troyes and Naples yellow. This composition 
is proper for distemper and forvarnisli. When 
ground, and mixed with the varnishes indicated for 
the preceding colour, the resiJt will be a bright 
solid colour, without smell, if an alcoholic varnish 
be applied for the last stratum. 

To make JYaples yelloxv. 

There are two processes given for making this 
colour. 1st. One pound of antimony, 1^ pound ol 
lead, I oz. of alum, and 1 oz. of common salt. 

2d. 1^ oz. of pure ceruse, 2 oz. of diaphoretic 
1 antimony, 5 oz. of calcined alum, and 1 oz. ot 
piu'e sal-ammoniac. The ingredients are to be well 
mixed together, and calcined in a moderate heat 
for tiiree hours, in a covered crucible, till it be- 
comes barelj' red hot, when the mass will become 
of a beautiful yellow colour. With a lai'ger por- 
tion of calx of antimon)' and sal ammoniac, the yel- 
low verges towaj'ds gold colour. 

Gh'.ss may be tinged yellow with the above pre 
paration. 

To make a patent yellow. 

It is prepared by triturating minium or red ox- 
ide of lead and common salt together, and then 
exposing them in a crucible to a gentle heat. In 
this process, the salt is decomposed, and the acid 
unites with the oxide of lead, and forms the pa- 
tent yellow. The alkaline base of tiie salt remains 
in tlie compound, which is to be carefully washed 
and crystallized. 

Muriate of lead tinges vitreous matters of a yel- 
low colour. Hence the beautiful glazing given to 
Queen's ware. It is composed of 80 pounds of mu- 
riate of lead, and 20 pounds of flints ground to- 
gether very fine, and mixed with water, till the 
whole becomes as tliick as cream. The vessels to 
be glazed are dipued in the glaze, and suffered to 
dry, when they are exposed to a suiBcient degree 
of heat to vitrify the surface. 

To make Chinese yellow. 

The acacia, an Egyptian thorn, is a species of 
mimosa, from which the Chinese make that yel- 
low which bears washing in their silks and stuffs, 
and appears with so much elegance in their paint- 
ing on paper. The flowers are gathered before 
they are fully opened, and put into an earthen ves- 
sel over a gentle heat, being stirred continually 
until they are nearly dry, and of a yellow colour: 
then to half a pound of the flowers, a sufiieient 
quantity of rain-water is added, to hold the flowers 
incorporated together. It is then to be boiled un- 
til it becomes thick, when it must be strained. To 
the liquor is added, half an ounce of common alum, 
and one ounce of calcined oyster-shells, reduced to 
a fine powder. All these are mixed together into a 
mass. An addition of a proportion of the ripe seeds 
to the flowers, renders the colours somewhat 
deeper. For making the deepest yellow, add a 
small quantity of Brazil wood. 

To make a pearl -white. 

Pour some distilled water into a solution of nt* 



48 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



trate of bismuth, as long as precipitation takes 
place; filler tlie solution, and vasii the preci])iLate 
\vh\\ (listriied water as it lies on tlie filter.- When 
properly di'ie(l,hy a gentle heat, this powder is 
what is generally termed pearl white. 
• To make a green colour. 

Mix a solution of common salt and hlue vitriol 
in water, by putting copper plates therein, and a 
green precipitate will be gra<lnally formed. 
To make Scheele^s green. 
Dissolve 2 pounds of blue vitriol in 6 pounds of 
water, in a cojiper vessel; and, in another vessel, 
dissolve 2 pounds of dry white potasli, and 11 
ounces of white arsenic, in 2 pounds of water. When 
the solutions are perfect, poiu' ihe arsenical ley into 
the other gradually, and about I pound 6 ounces of 
good green precipitate will be obtained. 
Jinit iSwick green. 
This is obtained from the solution of a precipi- 
tate of copi)er in tartar and water, which, by eva- 
poration, yields a transparent cupreous tartar, 
which is similar to the superfine Urunswick green. 
JVeiu green colour. 
Dissolve in a small quantity of hot water, 6 parts 
of suli)hate of copper; in another part, boil 6 parts 
of oxide of arsenic with 8 parts of potash, until it 
throws out no more carbonic acid; mix bj'degi-ees, 
this hot solution with the first, agitating continu- 
ally until the effervescence has entirely ceased; 
these then form a precipitate of a dirty greenish 
yellow, very abundant; add to it about three parts 
of acetic acid, or such a quantity that there may be 
a slight excess perceptible to the smell after the 
mixture; by degrees the precipitate diminishes the 
bulk, and in a few hours there deposes spontane- 
ously at ttie bottom of the liquor, entirely disco- 
loured, a powder of a contexture slightly crystal- 
line, and of a very beautiful green; afterwards the 
floating liquor is separated. 

This process lias been repeated on a large scale 
by using arsenic potass which was prepared with 8 
parts oxide of arsenic in place of G. The liquors 
Vere concentrated; some hours after tlie mixture 
there was formed at the surface a pellicle of a 
superb green colour; the whole was exposed to 
heat, and a heavy jiowder precipitated which was 
washed, to free it from a great excess of arsenic. 
The green thus obtained was magnifique. — Annals 
de Chimie, Sept. 1822. 

To improve green paint. 
Take 14 ounces of crude potash, 14 drachms of 
crude white arsenic. 

Boil them in 2 gallons of soft water, until quite 
dissolved; then put the liquor into a cast iron ves- 
sel to coat and settle^ draw off the liquor clean 
from tlie sediment, and put it into a vessel that 
will hold 200 gallons; add to it six gallons of clean 
soft water, cold; take one pound of lioman vitriol, 
and boil it in two gallons of soft water till dissolved; 
putting the solution into an open vessel till quite 
cold; then add it gi-adiially to the albresaid solu- 
tion of fixed alkali, stirring it well all the time, and 
it will produce ». genuine green oxide, with which 
proceed in the usual way of mineral green. It is 
essential in this preparation to make the mineral 
green without using caustic alkali which is the 
general way of manufacturing it for this purpose; 
because the caustic alkali acts powerfully on the 
vegetable quality of linseed oil used in this opera- 
don, and renders it mucilaginous. 

To prepai-e the precipitate of copper to mix with 
the atoresaid oxide, take one pound of Roman 
vitriol, and boil it till dissolved in two gallons of 
soft water; at the same time dissolve in another 
vessel half a pound of the first soft American pearl- 
ash; put the solution of vitriol boiling hot, into a 
vessel that will hold 10 or 12 gallons; then add to 
t gradually tlie solution of pearl-ash, boiling hoi; 



to be well stiired all the time. On mixing the so- 
lution together, it will cause a strong eftervescence, 
if the pearl-ash is good, it will be enough to pre- 
cipitate the vitriol, which will be known by the 
eflervescence immediately subsiding, ai)il the preci- 
pitate falling to the bottom of the vessel and thereby 
jn-oducing a fine green colour: when settled, draw 
off the clear livjudr, tden put it into bags, made of 
canvas, to filter, and when well drained lay it on 
chalk-stones, to draw a further quantity from it-, 
then put it into a stove to diy. 

'J'o mix the mineral substances i?i Tinseed n.. 
Take 1 lb, of the genuine mineral green, pre- 
pared and well powdered, 1 lb. of the precipitate 
of copper, 1^ lb. of refiners' blue verditer, 3 lbs. 
of white lead, diy powdered, 3 ounces of sugar ol 
lead, powdered fine. 

Mix the whole of these ingredients in linseed 
oil, and grind them in a levigating mill, passing it 
through until ([uite fine; it will thereby produce a 
bright mineral pea green ])aint, preserve a blue 
tint, and keep any length of time, in any climate, 
without injury, by putting oil or water over it. 

To use this colour for house or shi)) pairiting*. 
take 1 lb. of the green colour paint, with 1 gill ol 
pale boiled oil; mix them well together, and this will 
[)roduce a strong pea-green paint: the tint may be 
varied at pleasure, by adding a further qtiaiitily of 
white lead, groimd in linseed oil. This colour will 
stand the we.ither, and resist salt water; it may 
also be used for flatting rooms, by adding three 
pounds of white lead, ground in half lin.seed oil, 
and half turpentine, to one pound of the greenr 
then to be mixed up in turpentine spirits. Tit for 
use. It may also be used for painting Venetian 
window blinds, by adding to 1 lb. of the green pain* 
ten ounces of wiiite lead, ground in turpentine- 
then to be mixed up with turpentine varnish for 
use. In all tiie aforesaid prepar.ilions it will re- 
tain a blue tint, which is very desirable. AVhen 
used for blinds, a small quantity of Dutch pink may 
be put to the white lead if the colour is required 
of a yellow cast. — Re[iertory, 1814, 
Jin excellent azure. 
Take 2 oz. of quicksilver; sulphur, and ammo- 
niac salt, cf each half oz. Grind all together, and 
put the contents to digest in a matrass over a slow 
he.it: increase the fire a little, and when an azure 
fume arises, take the matrass from tlie fii-e. AVlien 
cool, these will make as beautiful an azure as ultra 
marine. 

To make nfine broiun pink. 
Bruise, and boil in 3 quarts of water, 4 oz. of 
French berries, to the reduction of one half. Strain 
them through a cloth, and put in this juice a dis- 
cretional (juantity of whiting, pounded and sifted 
into a subtle powder, so as to make a thick paste, 
which put into small tied bags, and set it to dry on 
tiles. 

^Vhen diy, use it with gum; and to render it 
finer, put in some gamboge. 

To imitate Jlesh colour. 
Mix a little white and yellow together; then add 
a little more red than yellow. These form an ex- 
cellent imitation of the complexion. 
A 7vhite for painters luhich may be preserved foi - 
en)er. 
Put into a pan 3 quarts of linseed oil, with an 
equal quantity of brandy, and 4 quarts of the best 
double distilled vinegar, 3 dozen cf whole new-laid 
eggs, 4 lbs. of mutton suet, chopped small: cover 
all with a lead plate, and lute it well. Lay this 
pan in the cellar for three weeks, then take skil- 
fully the white off, and dry it l"he dose of this 
composition is ounces of white to 1 of bismuth. 
To clean pictures. 
Take the picture out of the frame; lay a cleaa 
towel on it, for 10 or 14 days. Keep continuallv 



WATER COLOURS. 



49 



vetting it, until it has drawn out all the filthiness 
from the picture: pass some linseed oil over it, 
wliich has been a long time seasoned in the sun lo 
purify it, and the picture will become as lively on 
its surface as new. 

Another method. — Put into 2 quarts of the oldest 
ley, a quarter of a pound of Genoa soap, rasped 
very line, with about a pint of spirit of wine, and 
Doil all togetlier. Then strain it throngli a cloth, 
and let it cool. With a brush dipped in the com- 
position rub the picture all over, and let it dry; 
repeat this process, and let it dry again. Then 
dip a little cotton in oil of nut, and ])ass it over its 
surface. When perfectly dry, rub it well over 
witli a warm cloth, and it will appear of a beauti- 
ful freshness. 

Compound for receiving the colours used in encaus- 
tic painting. 

Diss^^lve 9 oz. of gum arabic in I pint of w.iter; 
add 14 oz. of finely powdered mastic, and 10 oz. 
of white wax, cut in small pieces; and, whilst hot, 
add by degrees 2 pints of cold spring water: then 
strain tlie composition. 

Another method. — Mix 24 ounces ot mastic with 
guni water, leaving out the wax; and when suffi- 
ciently beaten and dissolved over the fire, add, by 
degrees, Ij pints of cold water, and strain. 

Or, dissolve 9 ounces of gum arabic in 1^ pints 
of water, then add 1 pound of white wax Boil 
them over a slow fire, pour them into a cold ves- 
sel, and beat it well together. When this is mix- 
ed with the colours, it will require more water 
than the others. This is used in painting, the co- 
lours being mixed with tiiese compositions as with 
oil, adding water if necessary. When the paint- 
ing is finished, melt some white wax, and with a 
hard brush varni^ the painting, and when cold, 
rub it to make it entirely smooth. 

Grecian method of painting on -wax. 

Take an ounce of white wax, and one ounce of 
gum mastic, in drops, made into powder; put the 
■wax into a glazed pan, over a slow fire, and when 
melted add the mastic: then stir the same until 
they are both incorporated. Next throw the paste 
mto water, and when hard take it out, wipe it dry, 
and beat it in a mortar; when dry pound it in a 
linen cloth, till it is reduced to a fine powder. 
Make some strong gum water, and when painting 
take a little of the powder, some colour, and rai.x 
them all with the gum water. Light colours re- 
quire but a small quanaty of the powder, but more 
must be put in proportion Jo the darkness of the 
colours, and to black there should be almost as 
much of the powder as of colour. 

Having mixed the colours, paint with water, as 
IS practised in painting with water colours, a 
ground on the wood being first painted, of some 
proper colour, prepared as described for the pic- 
ture. When tlie painting is quite dry, with a hard 
brush, passing it one way, varnish it with white 
wax, which is melted over a slow fire till the pic- 
ture is varnished. Take care the wax does not 
boil. Afterwards hold the picture before a fire, 
near enough to melt the wax, but net to run; and 
wheti the varnish is entirely cold and hard, rub it 
gently with a linen cloth. Should the varnish blis- 
ter, warm the picture again very slowly, aud the 
bubbles will subside. 



WATER COLOURS USED EST DRAWING. 

Implements. 
Those necessary for drawing are a drawing- 
board, a ruler, compasses, charcoal, black lead 
pencils, penknife,, porte-crayons, black, white, 
and red chalks, Indian ink, crow-quill pens, ca- 



mel's hair pencils, hoxes of crlours, paper of se- 
veral sorts, and portfolios. 

Drawing-hoards are used to fix the paper so 
that it may not shift, and also to strain it, to pre 
vent the colours when laid Vet on t!)e paper from 
causing it to swell, so as to become uneven The 
simplest sort is made of a deal board framed, with 
a strong piece across each end to prevent warping./ 
Upon this the paper may be fixe<l with pins, wa- 
fers, or sealing-wax, or it may be strained with 
paste or glue. 

Drawing compasses arc instruments of brass and 
steel, for dividing lines, and laying down measurtiB 
from scales, &c.; a steel pen is also useful for 
drawing lines, cleaner than tliL-y can be done by a 
common pen. 

Black-lead pencils are either liard or soft, the 
best are without any grit, not too soft, and cut easily 
without breaking; those tliat are gritty and brittle 
will not answer so well. 

Indian ink. — The best is stamped with Chinese 

characters, breaks with a glossy fracture, and feels 

smooth when rubbed on the shell or pla'.s The 

! inferior kind, made in this couriti-y, may be easily 

known by its grittiness. 

Ilair pencils are made of cavnel's-hair; if thej 
come to a point, when moistened, without split- 
ting, they are good. 

Dra-Mug paper. — That which is made without 
any wire marks, and called wove paper, is the 
best; it is made of various sizes aud thicknesses. 
Middle tint paper is of a brownish or of a grey co- 
lour, and is used for drawing upon with black and 
white chalk. 

Crow pens are used For fining the outline with 
ink after it has been determined by the pencil. 
To draw in water coloxirs. 

This is an art capable of affording the highest 
delight; since no mode of representation can dis- 
play the appearances of Nature with greater truth: 
it is an art which has of late been carried to un- 
precedented success; and may be said, at present, 
to be the most perfect species of painting which is 
in practice. To this the facility of its materials 
mainly contributes. — It is not attended with the 
embarrassments to wliich oil painting is liable, but 
])roceeds, by ready and uninterrupted progress, tr> 
its completion. 

The general or simple colours, and the various 
species of each fit for painting in water colours, arc 
as follow:— 

Whites. — Ceruse, constant white, white lead, 
Spanish white, flake white, sjtodijni. 

Blacks. — Burnt cherry stones, ivory black, 
Keating's black, lamp black. 

Greens. — Green bice, green verditer, grass 
green, sap green, verdigris distilled. 

Blues. — banders blue, terre blue, Ijlue verditer, 
indigo, litmus, smelt, Prussian blue, light ditto, 
ultramarine, ultramarine ashes, blue bice. 

Browns. — Spanish brown, Spanish liquorice, 
umber, bistre, biu-nt terra de Sienna, vinburnt 
ditto. 

Reds. — Native cinnabar, burnt ochre, Indian 
red, red lead, minium, lake, vermilion, cai'mine, 
reU ink, Indian lake. 

Yellows. — ^English ochre, gall stone, gamboge 
masticot, oclire de luce, orpiment, Romaic ochre, 
Dutcli pink, saffron water, lung's yellow, gold yel- 
low, French hemes. 

To prepare water colours. — White. 

Use white lead, and clarify it with wiiite wine 
vi\»egar; after the white is settled, pour off the 
vinegar, and wash it with water, tlius: Put the 
powJer into a glass of water, stir it, and presently 
pour the water oft", while it is white, into another 
glass; when it is settled, pom- off the water, and 

E 



60 



UNIVERSAL. RECEIPT BOOK. 



an excellent white will be obtained; to whicli add 
as much gum as is necessary to give it a gloss. 

Anothtr. — Take a pound of the shreddings of 
glove leatlier, and steep them in water; boil them 
with twelve quarts of water, till it wastes to two; 
strain 't through a linen cloth, into a well glazed 
earthen pan; this is called glue or size, and proper 
to use with colours in candle light pieces; to know 
if this is strong enough, try if il is stiff and iirm 
under the hand. 

The glue being melted, reduce some white chalk 
to a powder, and while it is hot add such a quan- 
tity of the chalk as will bring it to the consistency 
of a paste, letting it steep for a quarter of an hour; 
stir it with a brush made of iiog's bristles. 

In order to make this white brighter, add more 
glue. Be careful to observe that every layer is 
dry before putting on another. If the artist works 
upon wood, he must put on a dozen; but six or 
seven are sufficient if tlie paper is thi-.k. After- 
wards dip a soft brush in some water, drain it with 
the fingers; rub the work with it in order to make 
It smooth. When the brush is full of white, wash 
it again; and also change the water when it is too 
white. Or use a wet linen rag instead of a brush. 
* Fellows. 

In some objects there may frequently be seen a 
khiuing, like that of gold, through colours of red, 
blue, or green, such as some sorts of flies or bee- 
tles, and the cantharides. This may be well imi- 
tated by laying some leaf-gold on the shaded side 
of the drawing, giving a little to the light side. To 
lay on the gold-leaf, press it smooth and close 
witli cotton, after having washed it with strong 
water; but take care that inlaying on the gum, the 
limits are not exceeded through which the gold is 
to a]»pear. In this case, the gold is only to shine 
through the transparent colour, which is to be laid 
over it. 
J As leaf-gold will not receive water-colours re- 

?i( gularl)', procure some water of ox-gall, and with 
'I this liquor stroke over the gold leaf, by which it 
will receive any colour the artist is desirous of lay- 
ing over it. 

In some manuscripts there may be seen gold 
letters, which seem to rise above the surface ot the 
paper. The composition which raises them is 
made of vermilion and the white of an egg. beaten 
to the consistence of an oil, and fixed to the paper 
with gum-arabic; on this figui-ative letter, wash 
some gum-water, with a camel's-hair pencil; lay 
on the gold leaf close with some cotton; and when 
dry, rub it again with cotton, and burnisli it with 
a dog's tooth, when it will appear as if cast in 
gold. 

There is also another way ot working in gold, 
which is performed by shell gold. Cover the slia- 
dy parts with vermilion, before using this gold. 
And when it has been rectified with spirit of wine, 
lay it on; when dry burnish it as before. 

In laying on this gold, leave the lights without 

, as it will appear to much greater advantage 
than if all the objects were covered; but provided 
the whole performance should be covered, the best 
way of setting it off is to trace over the shady parts 
with gall-stone, or the yellow made of French \icv- 
vies, heightened with minium. 

Gamboge is one of the mellowest colours nature 
has produced; it is of so mild a temperature, that 
when it is touched with any fluid, it instantly dis- 
solves; it is productive of a vai'iety of most agreea- 
ble tints, and will generally shade itself, though 
sometimes it requires help. 

Gall-stone is a Tery rich deep yellow, tending 
towards a brown; it is exceedingly useful in many 
cases, needs but little gumming or grinding, 
works free, but will not shade itself. 



If we cut the roots of barberries, and put them 
into a strong lixivium of pearl-ashes and water, a 
very agreeable yellow will proceed Irom them. 

Another fine transparent yellow is made by 
boiling the root of a imdberry-tree, well cleansed, 
in the foregoing lixivium. 

Yellow ochre makes a very good pale yellow; 
and being ground with gum water proves extreme- 
ly useful. 

Another verj' agreeable yellow is made by in- 
fusing tiie plant celadinc in water; gently press il, 
and add to the liquor some alum-water; then let it 
boil. 

To extract yelloia from French berries. 

In a quart of the preceding lixivium, boil 2 oz. 
of French berries, till the liquor is of a fine yel- 
low; strain it from the yellow berries, and when 
cold it is fit for use. To tlie berries put a pint ot 
the same lixivium, and boil it till the liqtor is as 
strong as gall-stones; with which shade any yel- 
lows: this boil till it comes to a brown; with the 
addition of a little ox-gall, it will serve to shade 
the gi;ld-leaf. 

A yellow may be made by infusing saffron in 
pure water. When this is steeped in rectified 
spirit of wine, there is nothing higher; but it is 
very apt to fly unless it is highly gummed. 

A good yellow, for the illumination of prints, 
may be extracted from the roots of g-injer; which 
make a good green, when ntiixed witli transparent 
verdigris. 

Those yellows, called English and Dutch pinks, 
are made with French berries, ground to a fine 
powder, and then boiled. 

JCing's yellow, a fine body-colour, is much used 
in heightening the ochre for gold lace, &c. 

Orange colour is made of a mixture of vermil 
ion and gamboge, the latter most predominant. 
licds. 

Red-lead, or minium, is a strong heavy colour. 
The following are the directions tor preparing it: 
Put four ounces in a glass, to a quart of rain water, 
and when it has been thoroughly stirred, pour ofi 
the water; by a frequent repetition of this, there 
will remain at the bottom of the glass a beautiful 
red, when dry, wliich is to be used with gum-wa- 
ter. When "the colour has been thus prepared, 
not more than twenty grains will remain out oi 
four ounces. 

Carmine affords tlte highest and most perfect 
crimson, and is the most beautiful of all reds, for 
wilh this colour and lake the shades may be made 
as strong as wanted. This colour should never be 
purchased but in day-light; for if not good, it will 
spoil the work. 

Lakes. 

Lake is a fine transparent colour, not much m 
ferior to carmine; but in painting with carmine 
on that part of the print on which the light is sup- 
posed to strike, lay on the first tint as light as pos- 
sible, working it stronger as it grows darker, and 
touch it iri the darker parts with lake. 

To make lake, prepare a lixivium, made with 
the ashes of vine-twigs, and to three pints add a 
pound of the best ground Brazil-wood; boil it till 
half the lixivium is evaporated; strain it off; boil 
it again with the addition of four ounces of fresh 
Brazil-wood, two ounces of cochineal, half an 
ounce of terra merita, and a pint of water; evapo- 
rate as before; add half an ounce of burnt alum 
(reduced to an impalpable powder), and a quarte^i 
of a drachm of arsenic; dissolve them in it, by 
stirring it with a stick; when settled strain it. To 
give this a body, reduce two cuttle-fish bones to a 
powder, and putting it in, let it dry leisurely. 
Grind it ina quantity of water, in which let it steep; 
strain it through a cloth, and making it into a fe\* 



WATER COLOURS. 



51 



caiLes, set it by for use, after diying it on a piece 
of marble. 

If this is wanted redder, add some of the juice 
of a lemon ; and to make it deeper, add oil of 
tartar. 

Another lake. 

Boil the sbreds of superfine scarlet cloth in a ley 
made of the ashes of burnt tartar; when sufficient- 
ly boiled, add some cochineal, powdered mastic, 
and alum; boil this again, and strain it through a 
bag several times. The first time, the bag must 
be strained from top to bottom; and the remaining 
gross matter being taken out, let the bag be well 
washed; after this strain the liquor through the 
bag again, when a paste will remain on the sides, 
which divide into small cakes, for use. 

Another. — Steep four ounces of the best Brazil- 
wood in a pint and a half of the finest distilled 
vinegar, for tliree weeks at least, though the longer 
it remains the better it is; seetiie the whole in bal- 
iieum maris, till it boils up three or four times; 
Jet it settle for a day or two; put it to an ounce of 
powdered alum, anil into a clean pan with the li- 
quor; let it remain for twenty-four hours; heat the 
composition, and stir it till it is cold; when it has 
stood about twelve hours, strain it, and add two 
cuttle-fish bones, prepared as before. 
Crimson. 

In twelve ounces of pale stale beer, boil one 
ounce of ground Brazil-wood, till the colour is as 
strong as desired; strain it through a linen cloth, 
and bottle it up for use. If wanted to bring this 
colour to a body, take some dried ox-blood, re- 
duced to a powder, and mix it with the colour. 

A fine crimson may be extracted from the berr}'- 
bearing spinach, which, being pressed, affords a 
reiy agreeable juice; to this add a fourth part of 
alum; boil it, and when cold it is fit for use. 

Or a very beautiful red may be extracted from 
tlie red beet root, baked witli a little strong vine- 
gar and alum; when cold it is fit for use. 

Another. — Put twenty or more grains of bruised 
cochineal into a gallipot, with as many drops of 
the ley of tartar as will make it give forth its co- 
lour; add to this mixture about half a spoonful of 
water, or more, and a very agreeable purple will 
be obtained. Reduce some alum to a very fine 
powder, put it to the purple liquor, and a beautiful 
crimson will appear; strain it through a fine cloth: 
use it as soon as possible; for though this is a co- 
lour which, if soon used, looks extremely well, 
)'et by long standing it is subject to decay. 

Indian lake is far superior to any other of the 
kind, for the deep shades of red of all kinds, and 
works as free as gamboge. The best is brought 
from China in pots, and has the appearance of 
raspberry-jam, but very bitter to the taste: it re- 
ip/ires ne gum. 

Purple. 

Take eight ounces of logwood, a pint of rain 
water, and an ounce of alum; infuse it well over a 
slow fire, in a well glazed pan or pipkin, for about 
24 hours; add \ ounce of gum-arabic, let it stand 
for a week: strain it through a piece of fine cloth. 
Keep it close, or it will mould. 

Another. — A redder purple may be made by 
adding to 1 oz. of the above, four ounces of Brazil- 
wood, and a pint of stale beer; boiling it till the 
liquor is as str'^-ng as is desired. It may be made 
darke'" by adding more logwood. 

The richest purple is made by blending carmine 
and Prussian blue, cr indigo, to whatever shade is 
wanted. 

Slues. 

Ultramarine is the best and brightest blue. Pre- 
pare it by heating six ounces of the lapis lazuli till 
(t if red; cool it in strong vinegar; grind it with a 



stone and muller to an impalpable powder; then 

make a composition of bees'-wax, resin, linseed- 
oil, and turpentine, of each three ounces: incor- 
porate the whole together ovei- a slow fire, till it 
is near boiling; pour them into a pan well glazed. 
This is called the paste of ultramarine. The lapia 
lazuli being prepared, add to it an equal quantity 
of the pastil, or paste; mix them t'^gether thorough- 
ly, and let them remain twelve hours. To extract 
the ultramarine from the paste, pour clean water 
upon it; on pressing the paste M'ith the hands, the 
ultramarine will come out for its reception: place 
a glass tumbler under the hand; let it settle in 
this water till the ultramarine sinks to the bottom. 

If the colour seems foul, cleanse it thus: Dissolve 
some tartar in water; add as much of it to the ul- 
tramarine as will cover it; let it stand twelve hours; 
wash it in warm water, when the colour will bt 
well clarified and perfectly clean. Let the ultra- 
marine be of a high coloiu', and well ground. 

Next to ultramarine in beatuy, is Prussian blue, 
but it does not grind kindly with water, on account 
of its oily substance. 

Blue bice is a colour of a very good body, and 
flows veiy agreeably in the pencil; wash it accord- 
ing to the rules laid down for ultramarine. 
Blacks. 

The proper blacks for water colours are as 
follows: 

Ivory black, which is prepared in the following 
manner: Let the ivory black be thoroughly ground, 
and there will naturally proceed from it a liquor 
of an oily substance: mix as much of it as will 
make it work freely in the pencil. It has a fine 
gloss, and is extremely serviceable in painting of 
shining objects. 

Indian ink is a very good black, and of great 
service, as it may be laid to any shade, and will 
always shade itself; on which account it is often 
used for drawings. 

Greens. 

Sap-gi^een is a colour extremely serviceable, and 
the best green for water colours, being of a gummy 
substance, and diluting easily in water. It produces 
an endless variety of tints, and has the advantage 
of shading itself. 

A sea or artijiciai green, is made by mixing in- 
digo and sap-green, which may be made lighter by 
adding more or less indigo; it is a veij servicea- 
ble colour, easily worked, and productive of many 
tints. This colour, as well as sap-green, shades 
itself. The indigo must be well ground before 
you mix it. 

Another is made with indigo and gamboge, well 
ground together : extremely useful in painting of 
trees, grass, vegetables, &c. With the addition of 
sap-green, it is veiy serviceable in flowers, and 
shading-in of garments. 

Broivns. 

Burnt and imlnimt terra de Sienna, are the 
warmest browns for front grounds, dead leaves, &;c. 
work very free, arid are of general use. 

Bistre is also a good and serviceable colour. — 
The best sort is very bright and close: as it is a 
colour difficult to work ot itself, mix a little Span- 
ish liquorice with it, that will mellow and take off 
its harshness. It must be well ground; and the 
higher it is gummed, the better for use. 

Spanish liquorice is productive of a great varie- 
ty of brown tints, of a verj* agreeable colour; it 
will not shade itself, but works as free as any gum 
colours by diluting it in fair water. 

A broivn mixture is made by incorporating sap- 
green and carmine, which is of an extraordinarily 
soft nature; it is a colour extremely serviceable in 
painting flowers in water colours. 

Another, by blending vermilion and btotrc U'lo- 



52 



UNIVERSAL, RECEIPT BOOK. 



roughly: the bistre must be extremely well ground 
before it is incorporated with the vermilion, and it 
will produce a very good brown. 

Directions for preparing mixed colours. 
Jlsli colour. — Ceruse, Keating's black and white, 
shaded with clierry-stone black. 

Bay. — Lake and flake white, shaded with car- 
mine ; bistre anJ vermilion shaded with black. 

Changeable silk. — Red lead and masticot-water, 
shaded with sap-green and verdigris. 

Another. — Lake and yellow, shaded with lake 
and Prussian blue. 

Cloud colour. — Light masticot, or lake and white, 
shaded with blue ver(";ter. 

Another. — Constant white and Indian ink, a little 
vermilion. 

Another. — White with a little lake and blue ver- 
diter, makes a very agreeable cloud colour, for 
that part next the horizon. 

Crij.'!so7i.— Lake and white, with a little vermil- 
ion, shaded with lake and carmine. 

Flame colour. — Vermilion and orpiment, height- 
ened with white. 

Another. — Gamboge, shaded with miniuin and 
red lead. 

Flesh colour. — 'Ceruse, red lead, and lake, for a 
sv/arthy complexion, and yellow-ochre. 

Another. — Constant white and a little carmine, 
shaded with Spauisli liquorice, washed witli car- 
mine. 

French green. — Light pink and Dutch bice, 
shaded with green pink. 

Glass grey. — Ceruse, with a little blue of any 
kind. 

Hair colour. — Masticot, ochre, umber, ceruse, 
and cherry-stone black. 

XeaJco/oi«-.— Indigo and white. 
Light blue. — Blue bice, heightened with flake 
white. . ! 

Another. — Blue verditer, and white of any sort, 
well ground. 

U gilt green. — Pink, smalt, and white. 
Another. — Blue verditer and gamboge. 
Another. — Gamboge and verdigris. The chief 
ase of tliis green is to lay the ground colours for 
irees, iields, &;c. 

lion ta-wney. — Red lead, and masticot, shaded 
with umber. 
JMurrey.' — Lake and white lead. 
Orange. — lied lead and a little masticot, shaded 
with gall-stone and lake. 

Orange ta-wney. — Lake, light pink, a little mas- 
ticot, shaded with gall-stone and lake. 

Pearl colour. — Carmine, a little white, shaded 
with lake. 

Popinjay green. — Gi-een and masticot; or pink 
and a little indigo, shaded with indigo. 

Purple. — Indigo, Spanish bi'own, and white ; 
or blue bice, red and white lead ; or blue bice 
and lake. 

Musset. — Cherry-stone black and white. 
Scarlet. — Red lead and lake, with or without 
vermilion. 

Sea-green. — Bice, j)ink, and white, shaded with 
pink. 

Sky colour. — ^Light masticot and white, for the 
lowest and lightest parts ; second, red ink and 
white; third, blue bice and white; fourth, blue bice 
alone. These are all to be softened into oue ano- 
ther at the e<!ges, so as not to appear harsh. 

Sky colour for drapery.— B\ae bice and ceruse, 
or ultramarine and white, shaded with indigo. 

Straw colour. — Masticot and a very little lake, 
shaded with Dutch pink. j 

~-"wf« colour. — Indigo, white, and lake; or fine 
Uuipli l)ice and lake, shaded with indigo; or lit- 1 



mus, smalt, and bice, tne latter most predomi- 
nant. 

Water. — Blue and while, shaded with blue, and 
heightened with white. 

Another. — Blue verdigris, shaded with indigo, 
and heightened with ^hite. 

Directions for using the colours. 
The pencil.s must be fast m the quills, not apt to 
part in the middle. 

Before beginning, have all the colours ready 
and a palette for the conveniency of mixing them; 
a paper to lay under the hand, as well as to try the 
colours upon ; also a large brush, called a fitch, to 
wipe off the dust from them. 

Being now prepared, proceed in the painting; 
which, if a landscape, lay on first dead colours 
freely all over the piece leaving no part unco- 
vered. 

Then proceed with the lighter parts, as the sky, 
sun-beams, &c. : then the yellowish beams, with 
masticot and white; next the blueness of the sky, 
with blue vei'diter alone; for purple clouds, mix 
only lake and white, making the coloiu-s deeper 
as they go upwards from the horizon, except in 
tempestuous skies. I'he tops of distant mountains 
must be worked so faint, that they may seem to lose 
themselves in the air. 

Bring tlie colours forward as the distance de- 
creases; painting the first ground next the horizon, 
downwards, of a bluish sea-green; and as you ad- 
vance forward, of a darker green, <.ill you come to 
the fore-ground itself; which, as it is the darkest 
part of all, with dark green, worked so as to give 
the appearance of shrubbery, &c. 

In painting trees, having first laid a little verdi- 
gris green for a dead colour, proceed with working 
it so as to give a leafy appearance. 

Bring some of the leaves forward with masticot 
and white; for the trunk, Avork the brown with sap- 
green; if oak trees are introduced, lay on some 
touches to express leaves of i\'y twined about it. 

All distinct objects are to be made impex'fect, as 
they apj)ear to the eye. 

In painting flesh, the following are the best di- 
rections for preparing the work so as afterwards 
more readily to produce the effects of colours t;een 
in nature. 

Take flake-white and a little lake, blend them 
together, and with that lay the ground colour ; 
then shade with red ochre, cherrj^-stone black, and 
a little lake, mixed together, touching the lips, 
cheeks, &cc. with a tint of cai'mine, and heighten 
the flesh Vr-itl'. white and a little carmine. Re 
member never to heighten it with pure white, 
which will always give it a cold appearance. 

It may be recommended to the student in gene- 
ral, whatever is the subject of his drawing, not to 
finish any one part first, but to work up every part 
gradually alike, until he finds nothing v/anting ta 
complete the whole. 

Wherever he lays on strong touches, he must be 
careful in those places to bring up his work to an 
equal roundness and strength, tempering and sweet- 
ening the colours with a sharper pencU than the 
first, that no lumps or harsh edges maybe left, but 
tliat the sliadows may all lie dispersed, soft and- 
smooth, and gliding gently into one another. 

The occasional roughness of the work need not 
discourage tlie artist; for it is easily softened by 
degrees with other tints and shadows: observing 
only to sweeten, mellow, and lieighten them ac- 
coi'ding as the liglit happens to fall. 

A method has'been lately discovered of combin 
ing the eftects of water colours with those of cray-. 
on-painting by means of wax crayons. It is an in- 
genious and pleasing mode of practice. 



WATER COLOURS. 



63 



Ta p^'evenl the colours from cracking. 
Boil 2 ounces of the best and clearest glue, with 
I pint of clear water, and a half an ouwse of the 
finest ilum, till dissolved. This is a veiy service- 
able liquor, with which temper those colours, in- 
tended for sky, as it will prevent them from crack- 
ing. ^ 

To make a solution of gum. 
Dissolve an ounce of white gum arable, and half 
an ounce of double refined sugar, in a quart of 
spring- water; strain it through a piece of muslin, 
then hottle it off for use, keeping it free from dust. 
AnotJier mtthod. — Take some of the whitest sort 
of gum arabic, then bruise and tie it in a piece of 
woollen cloth, steep it in spring water till dissolved. 
If too stiff, which is known by the shining of the 
colours, add more water; if too weak, more gum. 
With this water temper most of the colours, using 
such a quantity of it, that the colours, when dry, 
being touched, will come off. 

To keep fies from the -work. 
Having prepared the gum water, add a little co- 
loquintida, which, if the work should be exposed, 
will keep it from being damaged by the flies. 
To prepare alum water. 
Take 4 ounces of alum, and a pint of spring- 
water; boil it till the alum is thoroughly dissolved; 
filter it through blotting paper, and it is fit for use. 
Before laying on the colours, take some of this 
water hot, and with a sponge wet the back of the 
paper, which, if not good, must be wetted three or 
four times. This will not only prevent the sink- 
ing of the colours, but will also keep them from 
fading, and give an additional beauty and lustre. 
Remember that tlie paper must be dried each time 
before wetting it again. 

To make lime-water. 
Put some unslacked lime in a well-glazed pan ; 
cover it with pure water; let it remain so for one 
day , then strain off the water, and keep it for use. By 
the means of this water, sap green may be changed 
into blue. 

To make a lixivium of pearl ashes. 
Steep half an ounce of pearl ashes in clear water 
for one day; strain off the water as clean as possi- 
ble. This infusion will prove e-itremely servicea- 
ble in many colours, particularly Brazil wood; to 
which it will give an additional beauty and lustre. 
'J 'o restore decayed colours. 
Take distilled rosemary water, or essence of 
rosemary, and with a few drops temper the colours, 
which, however dead or faded, will recover their 
primitive brilliancy. This essence will prevent 
the bubbles which are troublcoome in grinding 
white and umbre. 

Liquid gold for vellum painting. 
Having procui-ed some of the finest leaf gold, 
grind it .vith strong gum-water, adding more gum- 
water asis found requisite; when thorough lygrouiiu 
terajier it with a small quantity of sublimate of 
mercury, binding it in the shell with a little dis- 
solved gum; spread it equally over the shell, and 
use it wiih water only, for gilding fans, &c. 
Liquid silver for the same. 
The manner of making this is the same as that 
of liquid gold, only remembering to temper it with 
glaire of eggs, and not water. 

To make glaire of eggs. 
Beat the whites with a spoon till they rise in a 
foam; let them stand twelve hours, and Uiey will 
be clarified into good glaire. 

To restore rusted liquid silver. 
If silver becomes rusty, cover that iiSLVt of the 
performance with the juice of garlic, which will 
recover it effectually. 

Ground to lay s-ilver or gold upon. 
Take the new shreds of parchment, (as they Ave ! 



I far preferable to glove leather) and boil them in a 
quart of spring water till consumed to a pint; strain 
the size from the shreds, and put it into a well 
glazed pan; use it before it is cold. Be careful, 
when laying on the siher or gold, that the size is 
not too moist, nor too dry, for in either case there 
will be danger of impairiVig the woi-k. 

To prevent gloss on draivinvs. 

Too much gum in the composition of ink em- 
ployed in drawings is tiie cause of the oft'ensive 
gloss which arises, in dilferent degrees, from what 
is called Indian ink, according to the caprice or 
ignorance of the manufacturer. This evil is 
irremediable, made with such ink, without the risk 
of defacing their surfaces. But it may be avoided 
by the artist composing his own ink, by an nnion 
of ivory or lamp black, with a small portion ot 
Prussian blue, or indigo, for a blue black; and the 
same blacks united with raw or bin-nt umi)er, bis- 
tre, Vandyke, or any other brown instead of the 
blue for a brown black. These should be incor- 
porated by mixing them in weak gum water, (or 
perhaps malt-wort would answer better), first levi- 
gating them veiy fine in common water, on a mar- 
ble slab. When dried to a paste, the glutinous 
matter should be, and not till then, well mixed 
with them. The proper strength may be readily 
known by a few trials, and that will be found suf- 
ficiently strong which binds the composition 
enough to prevent rubbing oft^ by the touch. Indian 
ink drawings should be handled as little as possi- 
ble, for the slightest rubbing produces a certain 
degree of gloss, and frequent repetitions ot it 
make the gloss more apparent and decided. 
To prepare -wash colours for maps. For yellotv. 

Dissolve gamboge in water: or French berries 
steeped in water, the liquor strained, and gum ara- 
bic added. 

For red. 

Steep Brazil dust in vinegar, witli alum. 

Or, dissolve litmus in water, and add spirit of 
wine. 

Or, steep cochineal in water, strained, and add 
gum. 

For blue. 

Dilute Saxon blue with water. 

Or, to the solution of litmus add distilled vine- 
gar. 

For green. 

Dissolve distilled water in verdigris, and add 
gum. 

Or, dissolve sap green in water, and add gum. 
Litmus is rendered green by adding p. p. m. kali 
to its Solution. 

To keep luaier-colows from si7iking. 

Boil 4 ounces of alum in a pint of spring ifater, 
till it is thoroughly disbolved; filter it through 
brown paper, and keep it for use. 

Before laying on the colours, take a sponge, and 
wet the back of the paper with this water while it 
is hot. This will not only prevent the colours from 
sinking, but will likewise give them an additional 
beauty and lustre, and preserve them from fading. 
If the paper is not good it must be washed three or 
four times with this water, drying it every time. 

If the prints are to be varnished, wash them all 
over with white starch, before beginning to lay on 
the colours. 

To prepare charcoal arid chalks for draxving. 

Saw the finest grain charcoal into slips of the 
size wanted, and put them into a pipkin of rnelleil 
bee's-wax; put them near a slow fire for half an 
hour, take them out, and when they are perfectly 
cool they are fit for use. The advantages tiftliese 
pencils are, that they can be made at the most 
triiling expense, and tliat drawings made with .V^ra 
are as permanent as ink. 

£2 



54 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



The above process will harden both red and 
black chalks, and make them permanent also. 
To make cavminated lake for crayons. 

The decoction which floats over the coloured 
7)recipitate known by the name of carmine, bein^ 
still highly coloured, the addition of sulphate of 
alumina, which is afterwards decomposed by a so- 
lution of carbonate of soda, disengages the alumine, 
and the latter, in precipitating itself, carries with 
it the colouring part of the bath. According to the 
dose prescribed for the composition, 2 or 3 ounces 
of alum may be employed. The greater or less 
(juantity of this substance, the base of which seizes 
on the colouring fecula, determines the greater or 
less intensity observed in the colour of the lake re- 
salting from it. When the process is conducted on a 
small scale, and by way of trial, the precipitate is 
received on a filter. It is then washed with warm 
water, and when it has acquired the consistence of 
soft paste, it is formed into small cakes or sticks. It 
is tliis substance which constitutes the beautiful 
carminated lakes used for crayon painting. 

Another, in the large -way. — In operating on a 
large scale, the whole of the alkaline liquor judged 
necessary, after a few trials, to decompose the 
(juantity of alum intended to be employed, may be 
divided into three or four separate portions. As 
many cloth filters as there are alkaline portions, 
being then prepared, the first portion of alkaline 
liquor is poured out, and the coloured precipitate 
resulting from it is received on one of the filters : 
the coloured liquor which passes through the filter 
receives the second portion of alkaline liquor, and 
llie latter produces a second precipitate, wliich is 
received on a new filter. This operation is then 
continued till the last portion of alkaline liquor 
has been employed. The lakes deposited on the 
filters are washed in warm water; and when drain- 
ed, are carried along with their cloth to the plas- 
ter dryers, or to beds of new bricks. These dryers, 
made of wrought plaister in the form of thick ba- 
sins, attract the moisture of the, paste, and shorten 
the process. The first precipitation gives a car- 
minated lake of a very high colour; the second is 
somewhat higher; and the rest go on decreasing in 
the same maniier. 

By these means the ai-tist obtains from the same 
oath shades of colour varied to infinity, much mel- 
lower, and more delicate than those resulting from 
a mechanical mixture of white clay in different 
doses, and lake saturated with colour by one ope- 
ration. 

To presei^e pencil and chalk dratuings. 

Get a pan or tub, sufficiently spacious to admit 
the drawing horizontally; fill it with clean water; 
and run the drawing through in that direction: 
then lay it on something flat to dry. (Do not lay 
the drawing, while ivet, on any coloured wood, 
such as mahogany, Sec. which will stain the paper 
in streaks.) This will take oft" the loose lead. 

Secondly, Fill the same vessel a second time, 
with rather more than one-third new milk, and 
the remaining part clean water, through which run 
the drawing again horizontally, and leave it to dry 
as before. 

Should milk be scarce, mix a little (in the pro- 
portions above-mentioned), in a tea-cup, and run 
the drawing lightly over with a camel-hair pencil, 
the water having already taken oft" the superfluous 
lead, and, in some degree, fixed the other; but be 
pai ticularly light with the pencil, never touching 
the drawing twice in the same place. 

To preserve black lead pencil draraings. 

Apply a thin wash of isinglass, which will pr-i- 
vent rubbing off of either black lead, or of hard 
black chalk. The simple application of skimmed 
milk will produce the same eifect. In using the 



latter, lay the drawing flat, upon the surface of the 
milk; then taking it up expeditiously, hang it, by 
one corner, till it drains and dries. The milk 
must be perfectly free from cream, or it will 
grease the paper. 

To fix crayon colours. 

Paste your paper on canvas, stretched on a 
frame in the usual way. When your drawing is 
finished, dilute drying oil with spirits of turpen- 
tine, and apply the mixture to the back of the 
drawing, or on the canvas. In a few days, when 
perfectly dry, give the face of the picture a coating 
of the same, and your crayon drawing will become 
(as the discoverer terms it) an oil painting. 
To make artificial black lead pencils. 

Melt together fine Cumberland black-lead in 
powder and shell lac. This compound is to be 
repeatedly powdered and re-melted until of uni- 
form composition; it is then sawn into slips, and 
mounted as usual. Pencils thus made are uniform, 
and of great strength, and there is no waste of ma- 
terials. 

To make English drawing pencils. 
They are formed of black-lead alone, sawn 
into slips, which are fitted into a groove made in a 
piece of wood, and another slip of wood glued over 
them: the softest wood, as cedar, is made choice 
of, that the pencil may be the easier cut; and a 
part at one end, too short to be conveniently used 
after the rest has been worn and cut away, is left 
unfilled with the black-lead, that there may be no 
waste of so valuable a commodity. 

These pencils are greatly preferable to others, 
being accompanied with some degree of the same 
inconveniences, and being very unequal in their 
quality, on account of different sorts of the mine- 
ral being fraudulently joined together in one pen- 
cil, the fore-part being commonly pretty good, 
and the rest of an inferior kind. Some, to avoid 
these imperfections, take the finer pieces of black- 
lead itself, which they saw into slips, and fix for 
use in port-crayons: this is doubtless the surest 
way of obtaining black-lead crayons, whose good- 
ness can be depended on. 

To make crayons fo'' drawing. 

Mix to one pint of boiling water 3 ounces oi 
spermaceti, I lb. of fine ground long ash with the 
colouring matter a sufficient quantity; roll out the 
paste, and when halfdr)', cut it in pipes. 

Another method. — This preparation has given 
birth to a particular kind of painting. In the large 
way, it consists in mixing up with the coloured 
bath ati argillaceous matter of the first quality, and 
subjecting the whole to careful evaporation, or in 
exposing the liquid paste on dryers of plaster with 
a clean cloth to prevent the crayon from adhering 
to the dryer. 

This method is more eionomieal than the che- 
mical process; but it requires a very nice choice 
in the quality of the white desired for the opera- 
tion, and in particular the precaution of previous 
washing, to remove the fine sandy parts with which 
the finest white clays are mixed. 

If the composer of crayons be also a manufac- 
turer of carminated lakes, and prefer to mix the 
bath of cochineal with white clay, well washed, 
and of the first quality, he may obtain the same 
shades by diluting with one measure of the decoc- 
tion of cochineal, different quantities of clay. For 
example, a pound of decoction saturated with co- 
lour, and a quarter of a pound of clay; the same 
quantity of decoction, and half a pound of clay; a 
pound, and so on. 

To enlarge or dlmimsh the size of a picture. 

Divide tlie sidi's of the original with a pair oi 
compasses into any number of equal parts, and 
rule lines across with a black lead pencil from side 



WATER COLOURS. 



55 



lo side, and from top to bottom. Then having the 
paper of the size intended, divide it into the same 
number of squares, either larger or less, to enlarge 
or contract it. Then placing the original before 
you, draw square by square the several parts, ob- 
serving to make the part of tlie figure you draw 
fall in the same part of the squares in the copy as 
it does in the original. To prevent mistakes, 
number the squares both of the original and copy. 

To prevent the necessity of ruling across the 
original, which may injure it, take a square pane 
of crown glass and divide its sides, and also its tcp 
and bottom into equal parts; then from each divi- 
sion draw lines across tlve glass with lamp black 
ground with gum water, and divide the glass into 
squares. Then lay the glass upon the original, 
and having drawn the same number of squares upon 
the paper, proceed to copy into each square on the 
paper what appears behind each corresponding 
square of the glass. Instead of a glass, an open 
frame with threads stretched across will answer. 
To take a copy of a print or drawing. 

Take a sheet of the finest white paper, wet it 
over with clean linseed oil on one side, and wipe 
the oil off clean, then let it stand and dry, other- 
wise it will spoil a printed picture by the soaking 
through of the oil. Having thus prepared the pa- 
per, lay it on any printed or painted picture, and 
it may be seen perfectly through; then with a black 
lead pencil copy with ease any picture on the oiled 
paper, then put it upon a sheet of clean white pa- 
per, and with a little pointed tracer or burnisher, 
go over the strokes drawn upon the oiled paper, 
and the same will be very neatly and exactly drawn 
upon the white paper. 

To make a scale for dividing the vanishing lines 
'in perspective. 

Take a sheet of paper, and having made an hori- 
Eontal line, fix on a point, as a centre, called the 
point of sight. Let this point be crossed with 
diagonal lines, in various directions. 

1 he ir.strument thus prepared, will form a sure 
guide to an unexperienced eye, in taking the pros- 
pective lines of all objects placed at right angles, 
such as streets, buildings, churches, apartments, 
by merely placing it under the leaf to be drawn on. 
To render the instrument more complete, a plate 
of glass sliould be added of the same size as the 
leaf of tlie drawing book on which the dark lines 
sliould be drawn. 

'J'o mix -water colours for animals. 
Horses. 

Chemut bro-wn. — Red ochre and black, mixed 
together, shaded with black, heightened with red 
ochre and white. 

Grey. — Black and white mixed, shaded with 
black, white, and bistre; heightened with i)ure 
water. 

Black. — Black lightly laid on, shaded with Keat- 
jng's black and bistre; heightened with masticot. 
Lions. 

Colour much the same manner as hogs, adding 
lake in the ground colour. 

Bears. 

Brown-oehre, red-ochre, and black, mixed; 
shaded with bistre and ivory-blaek. 
Wolves. 

Spanish liquorice and black, shaded with black. 



Black and white mixed; or add a little brown 
•ochre shaded with black. 

Elephants, 

Black, white, and Spanish liqaorice mixed; 

ehaded with black and bistre; the inner part of 

the nose vermilion and white, shaded with black. 

Monkeys, &c. 

Dutch pink and black, heightened with masti- I, 



cot and white: the face, black and bistre mixed, 
as also their feet, and below their bellies, shaded 
with black and pink mixed with a little brown- 
ochre. 

Stags. 
Brown-ochre, shaded with bisti'e towards the 
back; the neck and belly white, the mouth and 
ears inclining to red, the hoofs black, and legs 
shaded with black. 

To paint fruit in water colours. 
Jlpples. — Thin masticot mixed vith verdigris, 
shaded with brown ochre. 

Pears. — Masticot, deepened and mellowed with 
brown-ochre; tlie bloom the same as the apple. 

Cherries. — Vermilion and lake, shaded with 
carmine, heightened with vermilion and white. 

Strawberries. — White; draw it over with ver- 
milion and lake, shaded with fine lake, heightened 
with red lead and masticot, mixed; and, after, 
with white; stipple them with white and thin lead 
only. 

Bltie Grapes. — Dark purple, shaded with blue; 
the bloom bice. 

TVIiile Grapes.—~K mixture of verdigris and 
masticot, shaded with thin verdigris, heightened 
with masticot aqd white. 

Peaches. — Thin masticot, shaded with brown- 
ochre; the bloom lake, heightened with white. 
To pai7it flowers. 
Auriadas. — A tender wash of gamboge, shaded 
with sap green and carmine, blended together 
Round the centre leave a broad while space, which 
shade with Indian ink and green sap, mixed; stip- 
ple the gamboge with a purple extracted from 
logwood; the cup, in the inside, strong yellow, 
shaded with Dutch pink, or gall-stones; stipple it 
with white, darkening the white gradually with 
Indian ink, us the shade increases. 

Anemones. — A thin wash of gamboge, shaded 
with bistre, or carmine and sap green blended to- 
getlier; the stripes carmine, shaded with the same, 
indigo in the darkest parts, or stipple witli it. The 
leaves sap green, shaded with indigo and French 
berries: the stalk brown. 

Yellow Crown Imperials. — A thin wash of gam- 
boge, upon that another of washed red lead, shad- 
ed with carmine. The leaves sap green, shaded 
with indigo and French berries. 

Roses. — A light tint of pure carmine, over which 
another equally light of Peruvian blue, which will 
give the flowers a tint of that bloom which appears 
in nature; proceed with darker sliades of carmine, 
of the best sort. In the darkest parts of the flower, 
add a little indigo, whicli will give h roundness 
and body to your work. — If the seeds are seen, lay 
on some gamboge, shaded with gall stone; the up- 
per side of the leaves sap green, shaded with indi- 
go and French berries mixed; the under part, 
white indigo and sap green, mixed; shaded with 
the same. The stalks brown, made of sap green 
and carmine, shaded with indigo. 

Rose-buds. — A pale wash of carmine, shaded with 
a stronger wash of the same; let the hatchings be 
extremely tender, preserving that transparency 
and sweetness the flower has by nature. The stalks 
and leaves begin and finish with sap green, after 
which, a slight wash of carmine. 

Orange Crown Imperials. — A thin wash of red 
lead, the light shades carmine, the daik vermilion 
and bistre mixed; the seed the same as the flower. 
The leaves and stalks as the preceding. 

Honey Suckles. — The inside of the petals white 
shaded with sap green, or gamboge and bistre; 
which insides are to be shewn by curling the leaves 
back at the ends, or splitting them. The outsides. 
a thin wash of ermine and lake mixed, shaded with 
carmine, — indigo for the darkest shades. It is to 



56 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



be observed, t'lat some of the flowers growing on 
the same stalk are inclinable to purple, others ir 
carmine; the style and buttons, to be seen at the end 
of the flower, are of a faint green. The stalks, 
sap-green and carmine; the leaves, sap green, 
shaded with indigo and French berries. 
To draiv birds in luater colours. 

E'^Qfles. — Black and brown, shaded with indigo; 
the t^athers heightened b)' brown ochre and white; 
the beak and claws saffi'on, shaded with bistre; the 
eyes with vermilion, heightened with masticot or 
saffron, shaded with vermilion. 

Turkeys. — Both mak and female: — the back 
black and white, mixed gradually, shaded off" to a 
■white under the belly; sprinkled and shaded with 
black. 

Swans. — Wliite shaded with black; the legs and 
bills black; the eyes yellow, a ball in the midst. 

Geese. — Ceruse shaded with black; the legs 
black; the bill red. 

Pheasants. — White and black mixed; the ej^es 
like those of the falcon; the legs Dutch pink, shad- 
ed with black. 

Owls. — Ochre mixed with white, in different 
shades; the legs yellow ochre. 

Rules for pamting landscapes in roaier colours. 

The most useful colours for landscapes are, lake, 
burnt ochre, gamboge, indigo, or light red, sepia, 
Prussian blue, and terra de sienna. 

Skies are tinted with indigo; and the distant hills 
may also receive a finish wash of the same colour. 
Buildings, ground, and road, should be tinted with 
ochre. The bushes and grass may be forwarded 
with a tint of gamboge. The distances may be 
heightened vvitli a tint of lake, and the dark sha- 
dows of the building may be tinted with sepia. 

In retiring liilis, tint the whole with weak blue, 
then the nearer ones with indigo and lake; then add 
a little gamboge to the next, keeping rne subordi- 
nate to the otTier; the most distant being lost in 
the aerial tints. Clouds should be tinted'with se- 
pia. Opposing masses of trees should be tinted 
with sepia and indigo, and distant trees with grey. 
The lights warmed with gamboge and ochre, and 
their shades deepened with indigo. Force is ac- 
quired by adding sepia to indigo, in the cold parts, 
and sepia with lake to the glowing parts. Breadths 
of light are obtained by destroying the scattered 
lights with greys. 

7'o prepare a landscape. 

The student is first to sketch the outlines faintly 
with a black lead pencil, and then proceed with 
the hair pencil to tint and shadow, without the in- 
tervention of the crow-pen, or without any other 
fixed outline than what the tints and shadows pro- 
duce. 

The mixture of the grey colour is made of burnt 
umber, indigo, and lake; each to be rubbed in a 
saucer separately, and then mixed in due propor- 
tion in a fourth saucer, so as to produce the exact 
colour, which may be called a warm gn'ey. 

The colour is then to be thinned with water for 
the light tints, as the sky, distances, Stc. Deeper 
are to be used for the darker shadows, and near 
parts, finishing ofl:, and softening with water, till 
the exact effect is produced. 

He may then proceed to colour according to the 
following directions. 

Colours to be used. — Coal brown, rosy madder, 
Prussian blue, indigo, ultramarine, brown sienna, 
Roman ochre, yellow ochre, Venetian red, gam- 
boge, burnt sienna, lamp black, Vandyke brown, 
purjjle lake. 

To select tJie colours. 

The clouds are produced by a thin mixture of in- 
digo and lake. 

The azure sky, towards the horizon, is of lake 



and gamboge, and should be done with a clear 
brush. 

The lower, or horizontal clouds, are tinged with 
ultramarine. 

The distant lands are of ultramarine and lake. 

The distant trees are also of ultramarine, with a 
wash of indigo, gamboge, and burnt sienna. 

The middle distance trees are produced by a 
thin wash of burnt sienna and gamboge. 

The nearer trees are tinted with a wash of burnt 
sienna, indigo, and gamboge; towards the shadows 
more of indigo is incorporated. 

The grass is washed with a mixture of burnt sien- 
na, indigo, and gamboge; that in shadow has rather 
more indigo. 

The road and paths are produced by a mixture 
of lake, burnt umber, and burnt sienna. 

The house is sometimes tinted with a mixtwre 
of lake and gamboge. The tiling and shadows have 
an excess of lake. 

The windows are of indigo and burnt umber. 

The smoke is lake and indigo. 

The sheep are of burnt umber and gamboge. 

The figures are touched with lake and indigo. 

For landscapes, no other colours than the above 
are requisite, and they can be purchased in prepajv 
ed cakes. 



TO PAINT IN CRAYONS. 

Implements. 

The student must provide himself with some 
strong blue paper, the thicker the better, if the 
grain is not too coarse or knotty, the knots should 
be levelled with a penknife or razor, otherwise 
they will prove exceedingly troublesome. After 
this is done, the paper must be p.n.ssed very smooth 
on a linen cloth, previously strained on a deal 
frame, the size according to the artist's pleasure: 
on this the picture is to be executed; but it is most 
eligible not to paste the paper on till the whole 
subject is first dead coloured Now lay the paper 
with the- dead colour on its face upon a smouth 
board, when, by means of a brush, the back side of 
the paper must be covered with paste: the frame, 
with the strained cloth, must then be laid on the 
pasted side of the paper; after which turn the 
painted side uppermost, and lay a piece of clean 
paper upon it, to prevent sraeiring it; this being^ 
done, it may be stroked over gently by the hand, 
by which means all the air between the cloth and 
the paper will be forced out. 

When the paste is perfectly dry, the painting 
may be proceedsil with. 

Draxeing the outlines. 

Let the outlines be drawn on the glass ivith a 
small camel's hair pencil dipped in lake, ground 
them with oils, which may be done with great ex- 
actness. After this is accomplished, take a sheet 
of paper of the same size, and place it on the glass, 
stroking over all the lines with the hand, by which 
means the colour will adhere to the paste, which 
must be pierced with pin holes pretty close. The 
paper must be next laid upon the table, and the 
pierced paper laid upon it; then with some fine 
pounded charcoal, tied up in a piece of lawn, rub 
over the pierced lines, which will give an exact 
outline; but great care must be taken not to brush 
this otf till the whole is drawn over with sketching 
chalk, which is a composition made of whiting and 
tobacco-pipe clay, rolled like the crayons and point- 
ed at each end. 

Painting from life. 

When a student paints immediately from life, it 
will be prudent to make a correct drawing of the 
outlines on atiother paper, the size of the picture 



CRAYONS. 



5"< 



he 18 going to x>nint, -wlicnhe may trace by the pre- 
ceding metho<1, because erroneous strokes of the 
sketching chalk will preveat the crayons from af'- 
hering to the paper, owhig to a certain greasy qua- 
lity in the compositiun. 

Posture and light. 

The student w; il find the sitting posture with the 
box of crayons h, his lap the most convenient me- 
thod for him to paint. The part of the picture he 
is immediately painting, should be rather below 
his face; for if it is plsced too high, tlie arm will 
be fatigued. Let the window of the room where 
he paints be darkened at least to the height of six 
feet from the ground; and the subject to be painted 
should be situated in such a manner, that the light 
may fall with evciy advantage on the face, avoiding 
much shadow, which seldom has a good effect in 
portrait painting. 

features of ike face. 

The features of the face being correctly drawn 
with thnlks, let the student take a crayon of pure 
carmine, and carefully draw the nostril and edge of 
the nose next the shadov; then with tiie faintest car- 
mine tint, lay in the highest light upon the nose 
and forehsad, which must be executed broad. Then 
proceed gradually with the second tint, and the 
succeeding ones, till arrived at the shadows, which 
must be covered brilliant, enriched with much lake, 
earraine, and deep green. 1'his method appears 
at first uninviting, but in the finishing it will pro- 
duce a pleasing effect, colours being much easier 
tullied when too bright, than, when its colouring is 
dull, to raise the picture into a brilliant state. 'I'he 
several pearly tints distinguishable in fine com- 
plexions, must be imitated with blue verditer and 
white, wliich answers to the ultramarine tints used 
in oil. But if the parts of the face ^vhere tliese 
tints appear are in shadow, the crayons composed 
of black and white must be substituted in their place. 
When the student begins the eyes, let him draw 
them with a crayon inclined to the carmined tint, of 
■whatever ctdDur the irises are; he must lay them on 
brilliant ;\nd thin of colour, not yet noticing the pu- 
pil : he must then let the light of the eye incline 
very much to the blue cast, cautiouslj- avoiding a sta- 
rintr white appearance, preferring a broad shadow 
thrown on the upper p;;rl of the eye-lash. A black 
and heavy tint is also to be avoided in the ej'e brows; 
it is therefi re best to execute tliemlike a broad glow- 
ing sbado •• at first, •in whicli, in the finishing, the 
hairs of the brow tire to be painted; by which me- 
thod of proceeding the formertints will shew them- 
selves through, and ^u-oduce the most pleasing 
effect. 

The student should begin the lips with pure car- 
mine and lake, and in the shadow use some car- 
mine and black; the strong vermilion tints should 
be laid on ai'ter wards. He must be aware of exe- 
cuting them with stiff hard lines, gently intermix- 
ing each with the neighbouring colours, making 
the shadow beneath broad and enriched witii bril- 
liant crayons. He must form the corner of the 
mouth with carmine, brown ochre, and greens, va- 
riously intermixed. If the hair is dark, he should 
preserve much of the lake and deep carmine tints 
therein; .'his may be overpoivei'ed easily by the 
warmer hair-tints, which, as observed in pair.ting 
the eye-l'rows, will produce a r.cher effect when 
the picture is finislied; on the contrary, if this me- 
thod is neglected, a poverty of colouring will be 
discernible. 

After the artist has dead coloiired the head, he 
is to begin rubbing the forehead at the strongest 
light, first over with his finger, passing it very 
lightly til! he unites it with the next tint, and so on 
till the whole is softened together, often wiping 
his finger to prevent tlie colours being rubbed. 
H 



After the liead is forwarded let liim lay in the back- 
ground, covering it as thin as possible and rubbing 
it into the paper with a leather stump. Near the 
face the paper should be almost free from colour. 
In the back-ground also those crayons which are 
the most brilliant should be usiid, next paint the 
edges of the hair over in a light and free man- 
ner. 

The artist may now note what parts are too light 

and what too dark. He is then to complete the 

i back-ground, and the hair, as the dust in painting 

I these will fall on the face, and would much injure 

j it if completed first. 

I In the last painting of the forehead, begin the 

1 highest light with the most faint vermilion tint; in 

the next shade, succeeding the lightest, the student 

must work in some light blue tints, composed of 

! verditer and white, intermixing with them some ot 

i the deeper vermilion tints, so as to let them insen- 

1 sibly melt into each other: some brilliant yellows 

may be sparingly used; and towards the roots of 

the hair, strong verditer tints, intermixed with 

! green, will apply well. Beneath the eyes the 

, svvfeet pearly tints are to be kept composed of ver- 

j diter and white, and under the nose, and on the 

j temples, the same may be used: benepth the lips 

I the same is also proper, mixing them with light 

green and some vermilion. 

In finishing the cheeks, clear them with pure 
I lake, then with the same intermix bright vermi- 
I lion; aiid last of all, if required, a few touches of 
I the orange coloured crayon. After, sweeten that 
j part with the finger as little as possible, for fear of 
producing a heaviness on the cheeks. 

The eye is the most difficult feature to execute, 
I If the eye lashes are dark he must use some of the 
I carmine and brown ochre, and the crayon of car- 
I mine and bi&ck; and with these last, of brown or 
j haiel, make abroad shadow caused by the eye-lash. 
I The pupil of the eye must be made of pure lamp 
j black; between this and the lower part of the iris 
the light will catch very strong, but it must be 
gently diffused round the pupil till it is lost in 
shade. When the eye-balls are sufficiently pre- 
pared, the shining speck must be made with a pure 
white crayon, first broken to a point, and then laid 
on firm; but as it is possible they may be defective 
in neatness, they should be corrected with a pin, 
taking off the redundant parts. 

The difficulty with respect to the nose is to pre- 
serve the lines properly determined, and at tlie 
same time so artfully blended into the cheek, as to 
express its projection, and yet no real line to be 
perceptible upon a close examination; in some cir- 
cumstances it should be quite blended with the 
cheek, which appears behind it, and determined 
entirely -itith a slight touch of red chalk. The 
shadow caused by the nose !;• gt atraii/ 'he darkest 
in the whole face. Carmine and brown othre, and 
carmine and black, will compose it best. 

Having prepared the lips with the strongest lake 
and carmine, they must, with these colours, be 
madrt perfectly correct; and when finished, intro- 
duce the strong vermilions, but with great caution 
as they are extremely predominant. This, if pro- 
perly touched, will give the lips an appearance, 
equal, if not superior, to those executed in oils, 
notwithstanding the seeming superiority the latter 
lias by means of glazing. 

The neck, &c. 
To paint the neck, the artist should avoid ex- 
pressing tlie muscles too strong in the stem, nor 
should the bones appear too evident on the chest, 
as both have an unpleasing effect denoting a violent 
agitation of the body — a circumstan^ta- Sijldom ne- 
cessary to express in poi rait painting. The most 
necessary pai-t to be expressed, aad wluvS should 



58 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT ROOK. 



ever be obsefved, even in the most delicate subject, 
is a strong marking just above the place vi'here the 
collar bones unite; and if the head is much, thrown 
over the shoulders, some notice should betaken of 
a large muscle that rises frora behind the ear, and 
is inserted into the pit between the collarbones. 
All inferior muscles should be in general quite 
avoided. The student will find this caution neces- 
sary, as most sulijects, especiall}' thin persons, have 
the muscle of the neck much more apparent than 
would be judicious to imitate. In colouring the 
neck, let the stem of a pearly hue pi-edominate, 
and the light not so strong as on tlie chest. If any 
part of the breast appears, its transparency must 
also be expressed by pearly tints; but the upper 
part of the chest should be coloured with beautiful 
vermilions, delicately blended with the other. 
Drapnries, &c. 

Dark blue, purple, black, pink, and all kinds of 
red draperies also, should be first tinged witli car- 
mine, which will render the colours much more 
brilliant than any other method; over tills should 
be laid on tlie paper the middle tint, (a medium 
between the light and dark tints, of which the dra- 
pery is to be painted), except the dark masses of 
shadow; whicii should be laid on at first as deep as 
possible ; these sweetened with the finger, be- 
ing destitute of smaller folds, will exhibit a mas- 
terly breadth, which the lesser folds, when added, 
ought by no means to destroy. With the light and 
dark tints, the smaller parts are next to be made 
with freedom, e-cecuting as much with the crayon, 
and as little with the finger as possible : in eac!i 
fold touching tlie last stroke with the crayon, which 
stroke the finger must never touch. In the case of 
reflections, the simple touch of the crayon will be 
too Imrsh, therefore fingering will be necessary af- 
terwards, as reflected lights are always more gentle 
than those wliich are direct. With respect to re- 
flections in general, they must always partake of 
the same colour as the object reflecting; but in 
cases of single figures, it may be useful to make 
some particular observations. 

In a blue drapery, let the reflections be of a green- 
ish cast: in green draperies, make them of a yel- 
low tint, in yellow of an orange, in orange reflect 
a reddish cast; jin all reds sometliing of their own 
nature, but inclined to the yellow; black should 
liave a reddish reflection; tlie reflection of a reddish 
tint will also present purples to the best advantage. 
Of whatever colour the drapery is, the reflection of 
the face must partake thereof, otherwise the pic- 
ture, like painting on glass, will have but a gaudy 
eflect. 

Linen, lace, fur, &c. should be touched spirit- 
edly with the crayon, fingering very little, except 
the latter; and the last touches even of this, like 
all other parts, should be executed with the crayon, 
without sweetening witli the finger. 

To prepare coloured crayons. 

Take a large vessel of water, put t<ie whiting 
into it, and mix them well together; let this stand 
about half a minute, then pour the top into another 
vessel, and throw the gritty sediment away; let 
what is prepared rest about a minute, then pour it 
off" as before, which will purify the whiting, and 
render it free from all dirt and grittiness. Wlien 
this is done, let the whi:ing settle, and then pour 
the water from it, after which, lay it on the chalk 
to dry, and keep it for use, either for white cray- 
ons, or the purpose of preparing tints with other 
colours, for with this all other tints may be safely 
pi-epared. If the student wishes to make crayons 
of the whiting directly after it is washed, it is not 
necessary to dry it on the chalk, for it may be 
mixed instantly with an_, other colour, which will 
save considerable trouble. All colours of a heavy or 



gritty nature, especially blue verditer, must be 
purified by washing after this method. 

The student must be provided with a large flexi- 
ble pallet-knife, a large stone and muUer to levi- 
gate the colours, two or three large pieces of chalk, 
to absorb the moisture from the colours after they 
have been levigated, a piece of flat glass, to pre- 
vent the moisture from being absorbed too much, 
till the colours are rolled into form, and vessels 
for water, spirits, &c. as necessity and conveni- 
ence shall direct. 

Reds. 

It is rather diflicult to procure either good car- 
mine or good lake. Good carmine is inclined to 
the vermilion tint, and good lake to the carmine 
tint. The carmine crayons are prepared in the 
following manner. 

Carmine. 

As their texture is inclinable to hardness, in- 
stead of grinding and rolling them, take a suffi- 
cient quantity of carmine, laying it upon the grintl- 
ing-stone; mix it with alevigating-knife with spirit 
of wine, till it becomes smooth and even. The 
chalk-stone being ready, lay the cover upon it to 
absorb the spirit; but be careful that it is laid in 
a proper state for painting. If it is levigated too 
thin, the crayons will be too flat, and if too thick, 
it will occasion a waste of colour, by their adher- 
ing to the pallet-knife; but practice will render 
the proper degree of consistence familial-. The 
simple colour being prepared, the next step is to 
compose the difterent tints by the mixture w^itb 
whiting; the proportion to be observed consisting 
of twenty gradations to one, which maybe clearly 
understood by the following gradations. Take 
some of the simjile colour and levigate it with 
spirit of wine, adding about one part of washed 
whiting to three parts of carmine, of which, when 
properly incorporated, make two parcels. The 
next gradation should be composed of equal parts 
of carmine and whiting, of which four crayons 
may be made. The third composition should have 
one-fourth carmine, and three-fourths whiting; of 
this mix six crayons, which will be a good pro- 
portion for the rest. The last tint should be made 
of whiting, very faintly tinged with carmine, of 
which make about twenty cravons, which will 
complete the above-mentioned proportion. As 
these compound tints are levigated, they are to be 
laid immediately upon the cloth, tiiat the moisture 
may be absorbed to the proper degree of dryness 
to form it into crayons, which may be known by 
its losing the greater part of its adhesi-e quality 
when taken into tlie hand; if the consistency is 
found to be riglit, it may be then laid upon the 
glass, which, having no pores, will prevent the 
moisture from being carried off" before it is conve- 
nient to form it into crayons, otherwise the cray- 
ons will be full of cracks and very brittle, which 
will be a great inconvenience when they are used 
in painting. 

Lake. 

This is a colour very apt to be hard, to prevent 
which the student must observe the following par- 
ticulars. Take about half the quantity of lake in- 
tended for the cray-ns; and grind it very fine with 
spirit of wine; let it dry, and then pulverize it, 
■which, if tlie liike is good, is easily done; then 
take the other half and grind it with spirit; after 
which mix it with the pulverized lake, and lay it 
out directly in crayons on 'lie chalk. This colour 
will not bear rolling. The simple colour being 
thus prepared, proceed with the compound cray- 
ons as directed before, and in the same gradation 
as the carmine tint. 

VeT-milion. 

The best is inclined to the carmine tint. Notli- 



CRAYONS. 



69 



fng is required to prepare this colour more than 
to mix it on the stone with soft water or spirit, af- 
ter which it may be rolled with crayons. The dif- 
ferent tints are produced by a mixture of the sim- 
ple colour with whiting, according to the propor- 
tions already given. 

Bhies. 

Prussian blue is a colour very apt to bind, and 
is rendered soft witli more difficulty than carmine 
and lake. The same method of preparation to be 
followed with this, as directed with respect to lake, 
only it is necessary to grind a large quantity of the 
pure colour, as it is chiefly used for painting dra- 
peries. The different tints may be made accord- 
ing to necessity. Blue verditer is a colour natu- 
rally gritty, and therefore it is necessary to make 
it well. Its particles are so coarse as to require 
some binding matter to unite them, otherwise the 
crayons will never adhere together. To .locom- 
plish this, take a quantity sufficient to form two or 
three crayons, to which add a piece of .laked plas- 
ter of Paris, about the size of a pea; mix these 
well together, and form the crayons upon a chalk. 
This blue is extremely brilliant and will be of 
great use in heightening draperies, &c. The tints 
must be formed with whiting, as directed in the 
former instances, and are highly serviceable in 
painting flesh, to produce those pearly tints so 
beautiful iii crayon pictures. It is not necessary 
to mix the compound with spirit, as clear water 
will be sufficient. 

Greens. 

Brilliant greens are produced with great diffi- 
culty. In Switzerland they have a method of 
making them far superior to ours. We usually 
take yellow ochre, and, after grinding it with spi- 
rit, mix it with thr powder of Prussian blue ; then 
temper it with a knife, and lay the craj^ons on the 
chalk without rolling them. Instead of this, some 
use King's yellow mixed with Prussian blue, and 
others, brown ochre with Prussian blue. The 
crayons made of the two last may be rolled. Va- 
rious tints may he produced by these colours, ac- 
cording to fancy or necessity; some to partake 
more of the blue, and others of the yellow. 
Yellows. 

King's yellow is the most useful and the most 
brilliant, levigated with spirit of wine, to compose 
the different tints as before directed. Yellow 
oclu'e, and Naples yellow ground with spirits, will 
' roduce useful crayons. Orange is produced with 
King's yellow and vermilion ground together, 
and the tints formed as in other cases, but no great 
quantity i i'them is required. 
Brovjns. 

CuUen's e-irth is a fine dark brown. After six 
or eight of the simple crayons are prepared, several 
rich compound tints may be prepared from it, by 
a moisture of carmine of various degrees. Black 
carmine, and this colour, mixed together, make 
useful tints for painting hair; several gradations 
may be produced from each other of these by a 
mixture with whiting. Roman, or brown ochre, 
is an excellent colour, either simple or compound- 
ed with carmine. Whiting, tinged in several de- 
grees with either of these, will prove very service- 
able in painting. Umber may be treated in just 
the same maimer, only it is necessary to levigate 
with spirit of wine. 

Purples. 

Prussian blue ground with spirit and mixed with 
pulverized lake, will produce a good purple. Car- 
mine, thus mixed with Prussian blue, will produce 
a purple somewhat different from the former. Va- 
rious tints may be made from either of these com- 
pounds, by a mixture with whiting. 



Black. 

Lamp-black is the only black that can be used 
with safety, as all others are subject to mildew, 
but as good lamp-black is very scarce, tlie student 
will, perhaps, find it most expedient to ma)ke it 
himself; the process of which is as follows : Pro- 
vide a tin cone, fixed over a lamp, at such a height 
that the flame may just reach the cone for the soot 
to gather within it. When a sufficient quantit}' is 
collected, take it out and burn all the grease from 
it, in a crucible. It must then be ground with spi- 
rits, and laid on the chalk to absorb all the mois- 
ture. Various grey tints maybe formed from this 
by a mixture with whiting, as mentioned in former 
instances. Vermilion mixed with carmine : this 
is a composition of great use, and tints made from 
this with whiting, will be found to be very servi 
ceable. Carmine and black is another good com- 
pound, of which five or six gradations should be 
made, some partaking of the black, and otliers hav- 
ing the carmine most predominant, besides seve- 
ral tints by a mixture with whiting. Vermilion and 
black is also a very useful compound, from which 
several tints should be made. Prussian blue and 
black is another good compound, and will be fount 
of singular service in painting dr.iperies. 

It is impossible to lay down rules for the form 
ing of every tint necessary in composing a set of 
crayons, there being many accidental compositions 
entirely dependent upon fancy and opinion. Th/ 
student sho'.ild make it a rule to save the lea^^ngs 
of his colours, for of these he may form various 
tints, which will occasionally be useful. 

The different compositions of colours must be, 
cut into a proper magnitude, after they are prepar- 
ed, in order to roll ii.to pastils, for the conveni 
ence of using them. Each crayon should be form- 
ed in the left hand, with the ball of the right, first 
formed cyllndrlcally, and then tapering at each 
end. If the composition is too diy, dip the finger 
in water; if too wet, the composition must be laid 
on the chalk again, to absorb more of the moisture. 
The crayons should be rolled as quick as possible, 
and when finished, must be laid on the chalk again, 
to absorb all remaining moisture. After the grada 
tion of tints from one colour is formed, the stoni 
should be scraped and well cleaned Avith water, be- 
fore it is uied for another colour. 

• Arrangement of the crayovs. 

Wiien the set of crayons is completed, they 
should be arranged in classes, for the convenience 
of painting with them. Some thin drawers, divid- 
ed into a number of partitions, is the most conve- 
nient method of disposing them properly. The 
bottom of the partitions must be covered with bran, 
as a bed for the colours, which will preservs them 
clean and unbroken. The box made use of, when 
the student paints, should be about a foot square, 
with nine partitions. In the upper corner on the 
left hand (supposing the box to be on the lap when 
he paints), let him place the black and grey cray- 
ons, those being the most seldom used; in the se- 
cond partition, the blues; in the third, the greens 
and browns; in the first partition on the left hand 
of the second row, the carmines, lakes, and ver- 
milions, and all oeep reds; the yellows and or- 
ange in the middle, and the pearly tints next; and 
as these last are of a very <lelicate nature, tliey 
must be kept very clean, that the gradation of co- 
lour may be easily distinguished; in the lower row 
let the first partition contain a fine piece of liaen 
rag, to wipe the crayons with while they are using,* 
the second, all the pure lake and vermilion tints; 
and the other partition may contain those tints 
which, from their complex ' °ture, cannot be class- 
cd with any of the former. 



60 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



TO PAiNT ON IVORY AND MINIATURE 
PAINTING. 

To prepare ivory for tniniatiires. 
Take the ivory leaves, or tables on which the 
painting is to be made, and having cleansed them, 
rub them over with the juice of garlic. 

This takes off that greasiness which is so much 
complained of, as preventing the colours flora tak- 
ing on the ground, and wiiich is not otherwise to 
be remedied by the use of soap, or even gall. 

Another method. — Ivory is never sold in a state 
sufficiently polished or white. The process of 
whitening must be done by placing it in a mode- 
."ately heated oven, or in the sun, which will warp 
me side; turn it then on the other, and -when it 
las the degree of whiteness required, take it out, 
that it may not become too dry; for in that case it 
loses its transparency, and is apt to split when cut. 
This operation finished, proceed to the polishing. 
Some painters use a large scratcber; othei-s, an in- 
strument, with a blade three or four inolies long, 
and of a triangular shape. To either of these, the 
use oTa razor is preferable; to benefit completely 
by it be sure it has not the smallest notch in it, or 
tliat it be not too sharp. Open it so tliat the back 
part of the blade touches the handle; in that way 
use it to scrape the ivory from angle to angle. 
When the whole is thus polished, begin again from 
the contrary angles, in oi;der that no traces of tlie 
saw may remain upon the side required to be 
painted. Having provided pounce-sione, pulver- 
ized and passed through a silk sieve, place the 
ivory in the middle of the bottom of a hand box, 
holding it firm with one hand, while with the other, 
take a small bit of paper, ard rub the pounce on 
the side of the ivory which lias been polished; 
being always careful to do it with a circular roiove- 
ment. 

If the ivory be now of a dead white, and has lost 
the shine given to it by the razor, take it out of 
the box, holding it so that the fingers do not touch 
the surface, so troublesome to prepare, and brush 
off lightly with a painting brush any grits that may 
have adhered to it; for this purpose, take one of 
the largest hair-pencils; it may be serviceable to 
remove, in the same way, any specks or dust while 
painting. 

Never suffer the fingers to touch the ivory; hold 
it always at the extremities, for the colour- will not 
settle in a place touched by the hands. If, however, 
such an accident happens, have recourse to the 
pumice-pov/der, and with a paper stump, rather 
pointed, gently rub the place affected. But, to 
avoid, as niuch as possible, a recurrence of such 
accidents, when at work, take a sheet of paper to 
rest tlie hand upon, and when there is occasion to 
use boily-colour, have a piece of wood or paste- 
board made for the same purpose, in sucli a way 
that it touch not the miniature: for, inconsequence 
of the gum which is in the colours, the heat of the 
hand might cause the paper to stick to the paint- 
ing. The ivory at last pi'epared, begin the work 
by placing it on the desk, in the middle, with a 
sheet of paper under it, and the sketch above. 
To soften ivory. 
Slice half a pound of mandrake, and put it into 
a quart of the best vinegar, into whie.i put the ivory; 
let it stand in a warm place for 48 hours, and the 
ivory may be bent in any direction. 
Mamie r of sketching. 
Begin by attacking the strongest shades of the 
head: it is only when perfectly sure of the form of 
the four features, that the pupil may try to express 
the exterior shape of the head, and the wave of 
tl\e hair. Endeavour, while indicating carefully 
the form, not to render the lines too hard. If, 



when painting the eyes, the lids are marked oy too 
strong an outline, it will be very difficult to soften 
it afterwards. The same may be observed relative 
to the eye-lashes, and the shade of tlie nose and 
.hin: begin by sketching them lightly; observe if 
they are exactly of thu same colour and shape as 
those of the model; then go over them several, 
times, till they have acquired the necessary strength. 
In order to succeed upon what tlie pupil is now 
employed, ^uppose it to be the head of an old man 
painted by Greuse) take care at first to use only 
warm colours, and do not till afterwaxVj employ ■ 
tliose grey tints which are perceived at the edge of 
the middle tints, towards the side apiiroaching the 
light, otherwise the shades would not be sufficient- 
ly transparent. Be very careful to preserve the 
lights, particularly those which are placed upoji 
tlie upper part of the cheeks, the extremity of the 
nose, and the forehead. 

There are some painters who make use, with 
success, of a pen-knife, to scratch out che coloui-, 
but it requires skill, and the edge of the blade 
must only be employed, avoiding to touch with tho 
point: it is better to pr.ceed carefully, to be oblig- 
ed to add colour ratlier than take it otf. Work by 
etching; endeavour to place them at equal distar oes 
the one from the otlier, that they may as nearly as 
possible denote tlie forms of the flesh, and the mo 
tions of the muscles. 

If, notwitlistanding these precautions, the colour 
is found too thick, in some parts, or in consequence 
of taking too much water in your brush, some clot- 
ted strokes are perceived, use the point of tbe 
brush, di|)ped in water, tinged with the slightest 
quantity of colour, in order to dissolve it wiihou' 
entirely taking it away. It is essential, also, to 
avoid working too long upon the same spot, for 
fear of disturbing the colours alrea<lv put on. 
Colours to be cmljlotji^'l. 
The principal shades of the head are made with 
bistre, mixed with burnt sienna, and in some 
places with precipit", or a mixture of lake and 
larap-black. Tlie middle tints are made with yel- 
low uchre, ultramarine, and very little of the mix- 
ture above-mentioned. The flesh-tints are made 
with red brown, upon which touch with a small 
quantity of orange-lake. Tho green tints, near the 
mouth and neck, are made with yellow-ochre, ul- 
tramarine, and a little lake. The grey hairs of 
this old man are prepared in the shades with tints 
of bistre and black: in the middle tints, with ultra- 
marine, to which add some precipite . 

The eye-balls are made with burnt sienna and 
bistre; it would be well to make u.v; of indigo for 
their outlines. In the white of the eyes there are 
ultramarine, black, and lake; make the mouth with 
brown-red mixed with lake and ultramarine. For 
the mouth of a wi.>i.ian, or young man, one mav 
employ, with good effect, a little vermilion in the 
under lip, as it usually is of a higher colour. At 
present it will be sufficient to touch the corners 
with burnt sienna and lake. 
Colours to be used in sketching a vjoman''s hcaa. 
Be careful to put scarcely any bistre in the 
shades, but make them with the same colours as 
those already named for the middle tints of the 
old man, namely, ochre, ullranarine, and prect- 
pite; the local shades of the ilesh are made with 
orange-lake, which must be enlivened in the parts 
most highly coloured with pure lakj and even a 
little vermilion. 3Iake the middle tints with "i 
slight mixture of lake, ochre, aad ultramarine. 
Sketch the mouth with lake and vermilion, and 
retouch the u|:per-lip with a little red-brown, ul- 
tramarine, nm\ preapite; put also a small quantity 
of ultramarine m the cast shadow of the upper-lip, 
and slightly heighten the corners of the moutli with 



MINIATURE PAINTING. 



Gl 



\ touch of yellow-ochre, or burnt sienna, mixed 
with lake. 

In painting the neck and breast do not lose sight 
of the local lint of the flesh, which must be done 
with orange-lake let the shading be very transpa- 
rent; wash in well the contours; try to round thero 
in placing the etching nearer to each other tou nrds 
the edge, being careful not to lose the original 
form. If the woman's iiair is of a bright chesnut, 
in order to give this colour, sketch it with bistre, 
mixed with a little black; put also a mixture of car- 
rame, lake, and lamp-bbick in the strongest shades, 
and after having carefully preserved the lights, go 
over them with water, coloured \vith very little 
ochre. There is nothing in nature, lighter, more 
transparent, or more uncertain, than hair; there- 
fore endeavour to study and express it accordingly. 
Miike the extremities harmonize with the back- 
ground, and do not begin the latter till the head be 
in some degree of forv/ardness. Sketch it boldlj', 
but with light tints, and work upon them as equal- 
ly as possible. The blue parts are made with ul- 
tramarine, then add, in those that are grey, some 
black, and a little precipit?. Work it over with 
tints of burnt sienna in the auburn parts, then har- 
monize the whole with one single tint to finish it: 
that is to say, if the general effect be too blue, em- 
ploy Idack for that purpose; if too black, use blue; 
and if too cold, add some yellow. As to the dress, 
which is muslin, employ lake mixed with yellow- 
ochre and ultramarine. Put some glazing of In- 
dian yellow in the reflected light, and shade with 
sienna, lake, and a little black. 

Use and advantage of body-colours. 

The use of body-colours is absolutely necessary 
in painting in miniature for those thatare desirous 
of producing much effect. It would be nearly im- 
possible to make a good copy of a painting in oil, 
without employing them; besides which, for those 
who are becon\e proficient, in the use of ttiem, they 
possess the great advantage of enabling them to 
paint faster. Before making use of these colours 
it is necessary to know them; the following is the 
list. 

French colours — English colours. 

Blanc leger. Light white. — Oere jaune. Yellow 
oehre. — Vere de rut, Roiium ochre. — Orpin jaune, 
Yellow orpiment. — Orpin roage, Red orpiment. — 
Terra de sienne brulee. Burnt sienna. — Brim 
rouge, Liglit or Indian red. — Vermilion, Vermil- 
ion. — Laque, Lake. — Precipite- Violet, Mixture of 
carmine, lake Avilh Indigo. — Carmin, Carmine. — 
Indigo, Indigo. — Blue de Prusse, Prussian blue. — 
Bistre, Bistre. — Terre de Cologne, Cologne earth. 
— Noir de bougie, Lamp-black. — Gorame gutie, 
Gamboge. — Verd de vessie, Mixture of sap-green 
with permanent green. 

In colouring flesh, the lights are oidy obtained 
by the assistance of the transparency of the colours, 
and the natural whiteness of the ivory; with body- 
colours, on the contraiy, it is entirely covered, and 
the relief can only be produced by the use of co- 
loiu's more or less luminous. 

To cut and paste the ivory. 

Cut the ivory according to the form desired for 
the picture before beginning to paint with body- 
colours; for this purpose make use of scissars, and 
take care always to direct the points towards the 
centre from which ever side the pupil is cutting, in 
order to prevent the ivory from splitting; tlien 
paste it upon a sheet of very white pasteboard, of 
a thickness proportioned to the size of the minia- 
ture. 

For tills purpose use paste extremely white, such 
«s is made with starch; then leave it under a press 
for some hours. Some painters use sheets of sil- 
ver .vhich they place between the ivory and the 



pasteboard, to give brilliancy to the paintmg; but 
the eflect produced by this is very tiifling, and fre- 
quently turns out in the end very bad, as this me- 
tal is subject to become stained. When there is a 
back-ground, or a dra|)ery to paint in body-colours, 
beg.n by making a mixture upon the palette, a;»- 
proaching as nearly as possible to the general tint 
of the object intended to represent, observing', 
however, that, it is better to sketch with too dark 
than too light a tint, foi it is always easier to add 
to the lightness than to the darkness of a body-co- 
lour. Avoid wetting the pencil more than is ab- 
solutely necessary for spreading the colour. It is 
belter to use a little more in making the mixture 
than for spreading it upon the ivory; but be very 
careful not to begin ])ainting till it evaporates a 
moment, as the painting will be better and quicker 
done if the colour employed be sufficiently dry. 
To sketch portraits on ivory. 

Take for the model the picture of a man boldly 
dravvn, but, at the same time, finished. Choose a 
dark man, because black hair is more easily ex 
pressed upon a back-ground done with body-coloar, 
Procure before-hand a glass of the same size as the 
model, if you wish to preserve the copy; and when 
the sketch is finished, use the same glass to trace 
the form of the picture upon the ivory, with the 
assistance of a leaden pencil. Be very careful to 
trace in such a manner, as that the head may be in 
every direction at the same distance from the oval, 
as it is in the model. In painting from nature, the 
pupil will perceive the importance of placing the 
head in its proper place, in order to give grace to 
the picture. It sliould approach more or less to 
the border at the top, according to the height of 
the person, but in no case should it ever touch, and 
there should alwa3"s be at least the distance of two 
parts, equivalent to the half of the head. 

Now carefully sketch the head, attentively exa- 
mining the model, to know what colours to use; 
but, while endeavouring to render the work neat and 
even, do not put the etchings too close, or be in 
too great a hurry to finish. In finishing too soon, 
the pupil is frequently obliged to go again over the 
painting with large touches, in order to give it 
strength; the colour in consequencebecomes heavy, 
and the shades are rarely transparent. Sketch the 
hair with black, mixed with bistre, then touch it 
in certain parts with pure black; and, in finishing, 
spread some glazings of lake and larap-blaclc, and 
burnt sienna, with a great deal of gum. For the 
back-ground take a large pencil, with which make 
a rai.\ture on the palette of body-colours with white, 
black, ochre, and Cologne earth, to which add a 
slight quantity of indigo. Then compare the ef- 
fect of this mixture with the back-ground of the 
model, and if it is the same, take a pencil of squir- 
rel's hair, with not too large a point, and spread 
carefully round the head and shoulders the colour 
of the back-ground. Endeavour as little as possi- 
ble to alter the masses of hair, or the contour of the 
shoulders. Now use a larger pencil for the pup- 
pose of spreading the colour with wide short etch- 
ings placed one beside the other. 

VVhen this work has become perfectly dry, go 
over it in the same manner, but without ever pass- 
ing twice over the same spot, for fear of taking it 
oft. Continue doing this until the ivoiy no longer 
appears in any part. If any unevenness or thick- 
ness be perceived, caused by dust falling from the 
colours, or the inequalit)"^ of the work, (as soon as 
the back ground is perfectly diy) use the flat side 
of the blade of a scratcher, in order to smooth it 
To imitate the variety of colours in the model, 
bring forward the head, and give transparency aud 
vagueness to the back-ground: make a greyish tint 
with white, black, and a small degi'ee of ochre. 



62 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



take a very little of this in a large pencil, being 
sareful to pass it over a piece of paper, or upon the 
corners of the ivory, that there may not remain too 
much colour; then touch with confidence, but 
lightly, the parts of the back-ground which ap- 
proach to the head. 

In consulting the model the pupil will discover 
if it be necessai-y to go over it again. Touch the 
other parts with glazings of ochre, or burnt sienna, 
always mixed with a little white, to be able to ma- 
nage them. These last strokes must be given 
boldl}', using scarcely any thing but water coloured, 
keeping as near as possible to the tint. To make 
Ihe coat, which is blue, use indigo, lake, and a lit- 
'le white for the local tint; for the shades black and 
'■ndigo, with a little gum. Add to the local tint 
-ather more white and touch the lights with it, 
using for that purpose a smaller pencil. To pre- 
vent the outline of the coat from appearing too 
hard upon the back-ground, touch the edges with 
slight glazings made with the colours employed 
for both. Endeavour to avoid, particularly in fe- 
male pictures, letting the back-ground of body co- 
lour touch the extremities of the flesh; but fill up 
this space with etchings, made with the colour of 
the back-ground a little lightened; it is the only 
method of harmonizing the carnations with body- 
colour. In order to finisli the hair, the prepara- 
tion of which is already explained, and the lights 
of which are of body-colour, make a mixture com- 
posed of white, indigo, red-brown, and ochre, then 
touch with it the locks of hair, where lights have 
been reserved, veiy slightly, and with a pencil 
nearly dry: add then a little white to the same mix- 
ture, and make use of it to give another touch to 
the masses that rise the most. To represent the 
small locks which are made upon the back-ground, 
and give lightness, employ a colour rather paler 
than that of the hair, otherwise it will appear much 
too dark upon the body-colour, and will want the 
ti'ansparency which is always found in nature. 
Use of the magnifying glass. 

In miniature painting the magnifying glass is of 
great use: in the first place, to find out in the mo- 
del the method of colouring, employed by the mas- 
ter intended to copy: secondly, to give to the work 
the necessary finish, and to touch accurately some 
parts of the head, and at times tlie accessories. 
What is done without the magnifier is always 
softer; make it a rule to have recourse to it only 
when the naked eye perceives nothing more to be 
done. 

Procure also a little bottle of gum arable dis- 
solved in water, with a quantity of sugar candied 
equivalent to a fourth part of the gum; this prepa- 
ration is of the utmost necessity to mix the colours 
before putting them on the palette, for it will hap- 
pen that in painting, and above all in using body- 
colour, it will be required for some pai-ticular 
touches. 

To execute light kair. 

Draw the mass as correctly as possible, covering 
it over with a general tint, without, however, los- 
ing the contours. Make this tint with a little yel- 
low ochre, black, and a small quantity of lake; 
prepare the shades with black, ultramarine, and 
bistre, dot them with tinged water, preserving al- 
ways the lights, and finish them as much as possi- 
ble; retaining, however, their transparency: were 
the light parts to be covered too much, they would 
become heavy when touching them with body-co- 
lour. When the hair is in a state of forwardness, 
that is to say, when by finishing it, it becomes very 
transparent and very silky, then take a short camel- 
hair pencil, and make a mixture of yellow ochre 
and white, with which touch the light you have left 
bndoae. Add a little more to this same mixture. 



in ordcT to do the stronger lights; tlien touch the 
chief shades with bistre, lake Avith lamp-black, and 
a great deal of gums. 
To represent velvet and satins of different colours. 

.Black velvet. — In order to mplic's black velvet, 
first cover the ivory with a local tii t made of lamp- 
black, with very little gum, and as smooth as pos- 
sible; denote the shades with black mixed with in- 
digo and a little more gum; make the lights with 
a mixture of black and blue, with half the quantify 
of gum, to which add a little brown-red and yellow 
oclire. Be very careful, with the assistance of a 
mixed tint, to blend the darker with the lighter 
shades; then add a little white to this same tint, 
and touch the lights with it as freely as possible; 
to finish, do over the shades with mixed black, in- 
digo, precipit'-, and as much gum as possible, then 
pass over smootlily the reflected lights with lake, 
vandj'ke brown, or burnt sienna. 

Violet velvet. — Take some indigo and carmine to 
cover the ivory as equally as possible, avoiding 
with care to make thicknesses; then draw the 
shades over it with some black, carmine, and more 
gum than in the local tints; for the last touches, 
make use of carmine and white, with halfthe quan- 
tity of gum mixed with a little white and carmine, 
to touch the lights; then harmonize the shades 
with a little violet precipit? with a great deal of gum 
if the lights are too raw, smooth them over with a 
little carmine and lake, with much gum. 

Green velvet. — Green velvet is made with a pre- 
paration of Prussian blue and red orpiment, well 
and smoothly laid on; the shades are drawn with 
black and precipite, then some white and Prussian 
blue, with a little gum, is used to mark the lights; 
the whole is then touched with the finest sap-green. 
The strong lights may again be touched witli a mix- 
ture of white, ultramarine, but very slightly with 
sap-green. 

Jied velvet. — 'To make red velvet, mix a local 
tint of carmine with a little red brown; use this 
mixture with great care, only doing it over again 
when thoroughly dry, that coloin- being very diffi- 
cult to use as body-colour; indicate the shades witli 
precipite and guro; for the strongest parts mark the 
lights with pure carmine, and afterwards touch 
those most brilliant with pure white, then again 
glaze them lightly with carmine. 

The models copied will show you sufficiently the 
manner in which to place the light on the velvets; 
yet it will be useful to point out that this drapery 
is only brilliant in the reflected lights, and that it 
is different in its effects from all others. 

White satin. — It is very difficult to produce the 
effect of white satin with body-colour; it would be 
better attained by dotting the shades, the middle 
tints, and touching the lights with a little white. 
To obtain the desired effect, it is necessary, at first, 
to indicate with exactness the folds of the drapery, 
to make the silvery middle tints that are seen in 
it, take a little ultramarine, very little lake, and a 
touch of 'yellow ochre; for the strongest parts use 
Indian yellow, black, and ultramarine. Be parti- 
cular in making the shades of the satin partake of 
the tints of the objects around it. When thus 
sketched, prepare the lights with some white and 
a little gum, which smooth as much as possible; 
finish the middle tints with the same colour used 
to begin them, only adding a little ultramarine, and 
the most brilliant lights with white without gum, 
the shades with bistre, ultramarine, and precipite 

Coloured satins, as well as many other silk dra- 
peries, may be done with body-colour. 
To paint -white feathers. 

Outline the shape and the wave with care, ther, 
sketch them in with ultramarine, ochre, and a 
touch of lake; dot them lightly over, without at 



mNIATURE PAINTING. 



63 



♦endiii" at first to the minutiE, after -which mark 
out the more massy shades, by the addition ot a 
little black to the first tint; then, with care, begin 
to put in the white, and lightly indicate the little 
particles of the feather which hang over the back 
I, oiind or the drapery; with the point of a stronger 
pencil mark out the lines of the body of the fea- 
ther, being careful to avoid roughness; toucii the 
sti'on'gest shailes with precipite, and do the lights 
with Avhite without gum. 

To gild in body-colours. 
Wien there is an embroideiy or some other 
gilding to do over a drapery or body-coloured 
otowkI, draw the outline of it with Roman ochre, 
Ind sketch with the same tint; do the middle tints 
with bistre and burnt sienna, the lights with yellow 
ochre and white; then dot the shades with^?'ea>- 
te, and a little bistre; in these last touches there 
should be a great deal of gum. The more power- 
ful lights are done with white mixed with a little 
gamboge. 

To make the same gilding with dots, prepare 
them with a simple wash of pure burnt sienna, and 
do it over in the manner above mentioned. 
To execute linen, lace, and gauze. 
The difficulty of painting linen is extreme, and 
every attention ought to be paid to it. The shades 
of white draperies always partake of the colours of 
the grounl and surrounding objects; wliite not 
being considered as a colour, it would be allblack, 
were they not to be reflected by other objects from 
which they borrow their colouring. Muslin, be- 
cause of its transparency, partakes much of the co- 
lour of the flesh which it is near, and more parti- 
cularly when it covers it; this drapery requiring 
little light, the shades of it consequently should be 
very soft. 

Laces, blond, and gauzes are made over the ob- 
jects they are to decorate; the lights are dotted 
with brilliant white, and the under colours are 
used for the shades; it should border on the yel- 
low, that being the predominant colour of these 
draperies. For instance, if you wish to make a 
lace or blond trimming over a violet-coloured 
gown, and the folds of the trimming approach tlie 
flesh, the tint in that case should be of a red grey — 
when over the dress of a violet grey; because then 
the tint becomes mixed and partakes of the colour 
of the flesh, the gown, and the blond, the shades 
of which are grey. 

To represent pearls upon the flesh, hair, &c. 
If the pupil has a pearl necklace to make, draw 
the outline of each pearl with ultramarine, then 
make the shade with a little burnt sieuna and ulira- 
marine, the reflected lights with ochre, the cast 
shadow upon the flesh w'ith burnt sienna, softening 
the extremities with some ultramarine: the middle 
lint on the side of the light is made with ultrama- 
rine, and the light is touched with while. Be care- 
ful to proportion the strength of the shading to the 
size of the pearl. 

When pearls are to be made either upon the hair, 
above the back-ground, or upon draperies, where 
the pearl is to be placed, first, with a wet pencil, 
take the unaer colour off, until the ivoiy, which 
answers the purpose of local tint, appear; then 
make the pearls with the tints above mentioned, 
being careful, however, particularly if they be ra- 
ther large, to make tnem partake in the reflected 
parts of the objects which surround them. 
Colours to be employed in sketcldng a portrait from 
nature. 
We shall now give some rules upon the proper- 
ties and the employment of the colours, advising 
the pupil, at the same time, not to make the ap- 
plication of them until he feels convinced that na- 
ture indicates it. Sketch boldly; place the etch- 



ings, as much as possible, at equal distances from 
each other, and make tliem in such a manner as to 
Fhow the movement of the muscles, and the form 
of the featur^. In the shades, use some lustre and 
burnt sienna, mixed with a little predpit". The 
grey tints are done witli ultramarine and predpite; 
the green tints with yellow ochre, idtramarine, 
mixed more or less with lake, to lieighten them 
and make them brighter. The local tints of the 
flesh must always be chosen from the model, and 
serve in a greater or less degree to modify all the 
others. Observe in painting the eyes, that the 
ball being transparent, and tlie light passing 
through it, ought to be rather less dark on the op- 
posite side to the white speck. However, endea- 
vour not to commit the fault, so common to all be- 
ginners in painting from nature — that of never giv- 
ing sufiicient vigour to the eye-balls. In \ andyke, 
particularly in his portraits of women and children, 
the colour of the eye-balls is much stronger than 
any of the shades of the head: this is one of the 
means employed, with success, to give, at the same 
time, expression and softness to the physiognomy. 
To make the pupil or black spot, make use of 
black, and a Y\i.\.\e predpit^. The edge of tlie eye- 
lid is made with bistre, mixed with red predpite. 
If the person, whose portrait is painting, has a 
florid complexion, replace the bistre with yellow 
ochre mixed with lake. 

The white of the eye is made with ultramarine, 
pure near ttie ball ; in the corners, add a little 
ochre and lake; in men's heads, employ on the 
shaded side a small quantity of bistre, black, and 
predpite; which is heightened, if necessaiy, with 
a glazing of burnt sienna. Observe, that the setting 
of the eves towards tlie extremities of the lids, and 
the lid itself, is generally of a violet tint, which 
must, however, be heightened with a little yellow 
ochre, and to which vigour may be given, in cer- 
tain heads, by a touch of bistre, mixed with pred- 
pite. The lower part of the face is almost always 
of a greenish shade, mixed with lake. The shadow 
cast by the head \ipon the neck, is nearly of the 
same tint, although stronger and warmer in certain 
parts, which will he discovered by consulting the 
model. 

The chin in women is nearly of the same tint 
as the cheeks in the parts most highly coloured. 
It is the same in men, with this exception, that it 
is of a stronger tint, and there must be added to it, 
as well as to all the lower part of the face, a greater 
quantity of ultramarine, to indicate the using of the 
beard. The mouth is the greatest difficulty for all 
beginners, not so much for the colouring, as for the 
form and expression. They generally place it too 
far from the nose, in consequence of the serious 
and wearied expression frequently to be found in the 
countenance of the model while sitting. In endea- 
vouring to remedy this evil, they raise the corners, 
and believe by this means that they produce a 
smile, which is never natural but when the eyes, 
nose, and all the muscles of the face partake of 
this expression. The upper lip ought always to be 
of a stronger tint, but of a less brilliant colour than 
the under one. They are, generally, both of a very 
lively coloui-, and modelled in young persons, iii a 
determined manner, while in old men, the relaxa- 
tion of their forms, and ttie loss of their original 
colour, scarcely allows them to be distinguished 
from the local tint of tlie flesh. The corners ot the 
mouth are made with a mixture of carmine, lake, 
ultramarine, aud raw sienna. The last shadow of 
the under lip is made with nearly the same tint, 
adding to it a little touch of bistre. Observe that 
the reflect of the chin is of a brighter and warmer 
tint than that of the top of the cheek, particularly 
where the bosom is uncovered. It ought, m every 



64 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



other instance, without losinp^ the tint of the 
flesh, to partake more or less of tiiat of the drapery 
which surrounds it. 

When beginning the hair, observe^hat its shade 
upon the flesh lias always a warmer tint, with a 
bluish edge. There is also a greyish tint at the 
rise of the hair upon the forehead, which must be 
indicated, othervvise the i'esh will appear too ab- 
ruptly cut. It is the same with the eye-brows, 
which appear, at the extremity of tlie temple, of 
a pinker colour, and .must be blended with the 
flesh at the ojtposite extremity by a greyish tint. 
Many painters use too mucli lake at the extremity 
of the nose; it produces a disagreeable effect to 
the sight, and destroys the charm of the portrait. 
To avoid this, sketch this part lightly with the lo- 
cal tint which nature presents, and model it with 
tints more or less grey. In portraits of women, 
the middle tints on the side of the light, which are 
perceived upon the bosom and arms, are made 
with a slight mixture of ochre, aUL-amarine, and 
lake; on the shaded side add yellow ochre, some- 
times red precipite and bistre, in particular where 
the back ground is deeply coloured. The local 
tint of the hands ought to be the same as that of 
the flesh; the nails are rather more violet; the 
ends of the fingers pink. 

The shadow cast by llie hand upon the flesh, is 
made with brown mixed with ultramarine and pre- 
cipite; The cast shadow is always stronger than 
the shade of the fingers or the hand that occasions 
it, and must always be separated from it by a re- 
flected light. Generally speaking, the reflected 
parts ought to have more strength than the middle 
tints, but less than the shades. 

To adjust the drapery. 

We shall now proceed to the accessor, as of a 
portrait: these consist of the drapery, the back- 
ground, and many objects which may be introduc- 
ed and infinitely varied according to the subject 
represented. They should be subordinate in co- 
lour, light, and efTeot, to the head, which must, in 
preserving the same energy and the same truth, 
unceasingly attract the sight and observation. 

The manner of adjusting the drapery contri- 
butes more, than is generally believed by portrait 
painters, to give animation and character, and 
even expression, to their figures. Raphael, the 
model of perfection in every style, has taught us 
that the draperies aie intended to cover, but not to 
hide, the foi-ms. The large folds ought always to 
be placed on the largest parts of the hoAy. If tlie 
nature of the drapery requires small folds, give 
them but little lolief, in order that they may yield 
in eff"ect to those which indicate the principal 
parts. Denote the curved folds at the bending of 
the joints, and it should be the form underneath 
which determines those of the drapery. Place 
also larger folds upon the projecting parts, than 
upon the receding ones, and be careful never to 
indicate two folds of the same size and form be- 
side each other. 

All the great masters succeeded in expressing 
by the drapery, not only the exact form of tht-ir 
models at the moment taken, but even discovered, 
by their scientific execuiion, the position in which 
they were placed the instant before. In order to 
produce this effect, study it in nature; never be- 
gin to dress until the jtrincipal lines of it are 
drawn from the person sitting: afterwards it may 
be adjusted upon a lay figure, the immobility 
of which will allow the effect to be more easily 
represented. This machine, made use of by al- 
most all painters, resembles a skeleton in its con- 
struction; it even expresses the movements, by the 
assistance of balls placed in the joints: it is stuffed 
with horse-hair, covered with knitting, and is 



made in imitation of the interior forms <jf the hu« 
man figure. After dressing it in the drapery in-* 
tended to copy, place it exactly in the same situa- 
tion and the same attitude as those of the model. 
Then, attentively examine if the folds it offers re- 
semble those which were prestnted by nature. If 
this be not the case, remedy it as much as possi- 
ble, bj making this figure perform some move- 
ments of the body and arms, and then, Slightly 
with the finger) arranging the folds into which the 
drapery falls in the most natural manner, and fol- 
lowing, as far as possible, the I'ules just given. 

The exec',:tion of the draperies has great influ- 
ence on the harmony of a portrait, not only from 
the colour and variety of tints, but also from the 
becoming arrangement of the folds, the distribu- 
tion of the light, and the bleniling of the light with 
the shade. There are colours that agree together, 
others that are injurious to each other; in general, 
strong contrasts, produced by opposing colours, or 
briglii lij^lits and strong shades abru])tly brought 
tos ether, offend the sight, and are contrary to the 
law s of harmony. A portrait-painter, notwith- 
standing the very Kttle latitude usually allowed 
\\\n\, ought, however, to endf^ivour to follow these 
laws as near as he possibly can, and for this pur- 
pose, avail himself of the advantage which he can 
obtain from the arrangement of the fclds, the 
chiaro oscuro, and the expression of the reflected 
lights. 

To execute the back ground. 

In the composition of the back-ground, the opi- 
nion of the artist is usually of much importance in 
the mind of the person painted. The colours em- 
ployed in this will offer many resources for giving 
effect to the head and drapeiy, and to correct the 
general aspect of them, when that is necessary If 
the portrait require colour and i-elief, and the vi- 
gour of it is not increased, for fear of destroying 
the resemblance, then make a bright back-ground, 
of a grayish tint mixed with blue: this M'ill con- 
tribute to bring it forward, and make it appear 
more animated. If, on the contrary, the head b?. 
of too high a colour, by the assistance of a waria 
and deep-coloured back-ground, an aspect may be 
giv^en it more resembling that of nature. However 
simple may be the back-ground it is thought right 
to adopt, it must on no account be of an equal 
shade throughout, - and it is highly essential, by 
the variety of die primitive tints and glazings by 
which they are covered, to produce some differ- 
ence in the tints, particularly around the iiead. 
This will give space and uncertainty, detach the 
head, and give it roundness. 

Primitive colours and Iheir combinations. 

We have confined ourselves to indicating 12 
combinations of the principal colours of the flesh, 
and, in reality, we might confine ourselves to 4, 
for with black, blue, red, yellow, and reserving 
the lights upon the ivory, we might succeed in 
m.'sking all the mixtures necessary for miniature 
painting. 

The history of the fine arts teaches that the emi- 
nent masters executed for a length of time witli 
only red, blue, £nd yellow, which are the tliree 
primitive colours, black being only the abstraction 
from light, and white the light itself. A learned 
German, named Mayer, has calculated that with 
the three primitive colours, n^odified more or less 
with black and white, we might pi-oduee by their 
different combinations, eight hundred aPxd nineteen 
tints. We have, then, reason to believe that the 
Greeks, who have left us such beautiful master- 
pieces in sculpture, had readied an equal degree 
of perfection in painting. 
Discovery of nexo substances by modern painters. 

Modern painters have discovered in nature sub- 



MINIATIJRE PAINTING. 



65 



stances vvliich presented, ready prepared, the same 
mixture which the ancienis were obliged to seek 
for upon their palettes, have increased their num- 
ber of materials for paintiiv^, and have furnished 
artists with newer and speediermeans of acquiring 
p'.!rfection in their art. 

There have, however, been painters, who, since 
these discovei'ies, have thought they might dispense 
with making use of them. Santerre, a French art- 
ist, living at" the commencement of the last century, 
was one of these. He voluntarily confined himself 
to the five colours used by the ancients. Notwith- 
standing this, his productions were remarked for 
their soft and pleasing colouring ; the only sub- 
stances he employed were ultramarine, massicot, 
red, brown, French white, and Polish black. This 
proves, that it is not the great variety of tints upon 
the palette which produces fine colouring, but the 
manner of employing them. 
Manner of laying the body colours 07i the palette. 

AVhen the pupil is desirous of renewing the co- 
Ic'jrs upon the palette, or of putting on fresh, re- 
member, that ochres, raw sienna, brown, bistre, 
black, vermilion, and ultramarine, require to be 
ground again, and to have gum: habit can alone 
give a just idea of the degree necessary. Lake, 
carmine lake, andprecipite, are generally sold with 
gum ; experience will teach whether in sufficient 
quantity, but there is no harm in grinding them as 
much as possible. 

In laying the body-colour on the palette, put a 
large quantity of each, and let .liere be only three 
or four at most on one side of the palette, in such a 
manner as to leave room for the mixtures. Grind 
them as much as possible, and add a moderate quan- 
tity of gum. We only make use of light white for 
miniature painting, the white of lead being subject 
to become black from the effect of the air. Put 
some of this white into two different places: one 
of these quantities, with much less gu»n, will serve 
to go a second time over the lights which are pre- 
pai-ed with the other, in order to render them more 
brilliant. Some painters, who wish to give more 
solidity to the back ground and draperies in body- 
colours, put more gum in the first sketch; this pre- 
caution is unnecessary, when the ivory is properly 
prepared; but, in order to succeed in painting bo- 
dv colours, they must not have too much gum. 
"\Vhen the pupil has finished, and has been able to 
express all that he was desirous of executing, with 
the assistance of glazings of a warm tint, he may 
make that grey and earthy aspect, which it so often 
presents, disappear. 
Different substances used in miniature pamting. 

Miniature painting cau be executed upon several 
kinds of white substances, such as marble, alabas- 
ter, and even egg-shell: artists have succeeded in 
preparing and softening the latter by means of hu- 
midity; they may then be easily spread upon a 
plate of metal, or a thick sheet of paste-board, after 
which they are susceptible, as well as ivory, of re- 
ceiving the preparation already explained. The 
paper and Bristol paste-board, used for the aqua- 
relles, cannot be chosen too fine or too even ; as they 
then require no other preparation than that of the 
Bgate- stone. Vellum, which must be carefully 
stretched upon paste-board, or a plate of metal, 
may be lightly pounced. 

Ivory has generally been adopted in preference 
to any of these substances, because it is subject to 
fewer inconveniences, and in its local tint comes 
nearer to that of the flesh itself; and because it is 
capable of receiving a higher finish, and of being 
executed upon with greater vigour, and, conse- 
quently, produces works of longer duration. It 
ought t J be chosen extremely white, without appa- 
rent veins, very even, and cut in very thin sheets; 



because, in proportion to its thickness, its opaeity 
will give it a yellow tint, when otherwise, if it be 
transparent, the whiteness of the paper or paste- 
board it is placed upon, will penetrate and increase 
that which is natural to it. 

Choice ofbrjcshes. 

It is extremely important to know how to make 
a judicious choice of X'encils: th.ose for the back 
ground ought to be square at the end, short and 
thick; they must be dipt in water, and then be 
tried upon paper to see if they remain un'ted, and 
if there be not one hair longer than the others 
The pencils of squirrel's hair, made for sketching, 
ought not to be too long, their points should be 
round and firm. The sable pencils must be full of 
hair; the colpur will not then dry so quickly, and 
in consequence render the touch larger and softer; 
the points should be firm, supple, and elastic. In 
order to be assured of this, wet them, and turn 
them in eveiy direction upon the finger, or upon 
paper: if they make but one point, it may then be 
concluded that they are good; if, "n the contrary, 
they do not unite well, or that some hairs are 
longer than others, in that case they are good for 
nothing. The pupil may, however, still make use 
of a pencil too pointed, (provided the hair remains 
united) by cutting ihem with scissors, but be very 
careful not to do it too much. A. surer method of 
making a proper point is by wetting it, and pass- 
ing it rapidly through the flame of a wax taper. 

Most miniature painters have a hal)it of passing 
their pencils between the lips while painting, in 
order to unite the hair and make a good point; if 
there be too much water, they, by this means, draw 
it from the pencils, and leave only sufficient to ena- 
ble them to employ the colour with softness. There 
is no fear of this being injurious, for all colours 
used in miniature painting, when prepared (except 
the orpiment, which is a poison), have no bad 
qualities, or disagreeable taste. This last men' 
tioned dangerous colour does not make a part of 
the flesh palette, therefore it will be better to em- 
ploy this method for the purpose of making the 
work even, and prevent its being too much loaded 
with colour. In painting with body colour, gather 
only the Viair of the pencil, and if there be too 
mnch colour, discharge it upon paper, or upon the 
palette itself. In short, it will only be after hav- 
ing bought both bad and good pencils, that the pu- 
pil will be able to discover those most favourable 
to his own particular manner. 



TO PAINT ON VELVET. 

Materials required. 

Best white cotton velvet, or velveteen. Box of 
water colours. Assieite rouge, or saucer of pink 
dye. Towne's. alumina. Velvet scrubs. Fitch 
pencils of different sizes. Small saucers to con- 
tain the diluted colours. 

Subjects for the same. 

Flowers, as the rose, demand peculiar attention: 
likewise fine ripe fruits, large and beautiful shells, 
and the charming tints of the feathered tribe, &c. 

Animals, especially the lion, tiger, leopard, &o. 
may be imitated with great fidelity. In landscapes 
choose from artic scenery, without attending to 
the minuteness of figures. 

In the selection of subjects, ever prefer those 
that admit of the broadest light and shade; attempt 
first the most simple, as a flower or two: the faci- 
lity with which they may be completed will pre- 
pare and encourage for greater works. 
^ippropinate colours. 

Reds. — I^ke, carmine, vermilion, light red, and 
assiette rouge. 

F i 



b6 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK, 



JBlites. — 'Prussian, indigo, Antwerp, verditer. 
Tellotvs. — ^Gamboge, yellow and Roman ochre. 

Terra de sienna, burnt and u.iburnt.— Umber, 
do. do. — 'Vandyke brown. — Bistre. — Lamp-black. 
— ^Indian ink. 

Compound colours. 

JVeutral tint, compounded of lake, indigo, and 
lamp-black. 

Green, compounded of Prussian blue and gam- 
boge in various sliades, or vrith raw terra de sienna, 
or with burnt terra de sienna.. 

Purple, of Prussian blue, or indigo, with lake 
or carmine. 

Orange, of gamboge with carmine, Roman ochre 
with vermilion, yellow ochre with red lead, the 2 
siennas with light red. 

Bro-wn, of umber, lake and lamp-black, differ- 
ent shades, (a deep shade) of lake or carmine, with 
lamp-black or Indian ink. 

Directions to paint on velvet. 

The only preparation velvet reqr.ires is, the 
making it pertectly smooth by passing over the 
back of it a warm iron. 

Fitoh pencils should be cut almost to a point, in 
the same tmnner as the velvet scrubs. Except for 
very large pieces, the former are preferable to the 
latter, being sufticiently strong to force the colour 
into the velvet, without injuring the foil. 

The subject being chosen, it will be requisite 
for those who are not proficient, to trace in the 
same by attaching it to the velvet, and holding both 
against a window, making a neat and faint outline 
with a black lead pencil; but as velvet does not ad- 
mit the same correcticn as paper, great care must 
be taken at first to obtain a correct outline, by 
tracing the subject with any smooth round point; 
the impression thus will also be left on the vel- 
vet. 

Dilute the colours with alumini, except the pink 
dye, carmine, and lake; with those use lemon 
jaice, particularly the pink dye, which is prefera- 
ble to any other colour for the red rose. 

In diluting the colours make them of a creamy 
consistence; in the same manner prepare in sau- 
cers the requisite compounds from the primitive 
colours. 

The assiette rouge is an exception to this direc- 
tion. With a fitch and lemon juice wash some of 
it from the saucer into smaller ones, in shades 
from the faintest tinge to the deepest hue of the 
rose. 

Lay in the drawing with the faintest colouring. 
By this means the design will be seen at one view, 
and so correct any little inaccuracy by ihe subse- 
quent shades. Observe in this stage to rub the 
colour well into the velvet with the scrubs orlaige 
fitcher, then let the work dry, and if the velvet is 
not well saturated vv'ith the colour, repeat the ope- 
ration, but by no means in this stage attempt a 
great depth of colouring. 

Proceed with the .shadows, lay them with a fitch 
forming the flowers, or any other subject, as accu- 
rately as possible, softening off the edges of the 
shadows when necessary, according to the size of 
the design, either with a scrub or fitch, before the 
■work gets too dry. 

Before proceeding any further, the drawing 
should be well examined ; the shadows deepened 
and the light heightened as they may require; cor- 
rect the whole, and add the finishing tints; then 
vein thp leaves. 

For large flowers, especially the rose, damp the 
back of the velvet moderately to assist the colour- 
ing through; wherever there is a large surface to 
DC covered, this mode will be found advantageous. 

Towards the extremities of the design and form- 
ing any part oi the outline, do not let the fitch be 



too full of colour, but rather diyer than the other 
parts; attention to this point will preserve the 
drawing perfectly neat and correct. 

Be careful that the scrubs and fitches be kept 
perfectly clean, otherwise they will injure the bril- 
liancy of the drawing, a fault it will be in some 
cases impossible to correct on velvet. 

Have always ready some clean fitches to take oft" 
any super-abundance of coloui-, also for blending 
the colour while wet. 

To paint on silks, satins, &c. 

Wlien the outline is made, lay on a wash of isin- 
glass with care, to take away the glare of the satin, 
otherwise the colours will not work freely. Melt 
the isinglass thin in very clear water, over the fire, 
otherwise it will discolour the satin, and spoil the 
colours. 

The lights are to be made b}' a small tincture of 
the colour of the intended flower, mixed with the 
flake white, so as just to make a degree from the 
colour of the satin; if white, or of any other colour, 
to be mixed proportionably to the colour of I'le 
flower. If a blue flower, use a very small quaatiiy 
of bice or verditer with the white, using less of it 
as the shades grow darker; and in the most dark, 
use indigo alone, it being by that time rendered 
opaque enough; but take care not to lay the colours 
on too thick, otherwise they will crack. A little 
white sugar-candy will be found necessary, when 
mixed with the gum water, as a preventive to 
cracking. If a flower happens to be of so deep a 
colour as not to aJmit of any pure white in the 
lightest of the parts, a sort of priming of white 
should be laid on; after which, when dry, begin 
with the ground-colour of the flower, and proceed 
gradually with the shades, with any selected ex- 
amples, peculiarly chosen from nature, for that 
purpose. 



LITHOGRAPHY. 

To -write and engrave upon stone. 

The stones should be of a calcareous natur?, 
pure, hard, and of a fine grain. They must imbibe 
both moisture and grease with equal avidity. The 
chalk is a composition of grease, wax, shell-lac, 
soap, and black. The lithographic ink is com- 
posed of the same mater' als, but rather softer. 

The stone must be rubbed down with fine sand, 
to a perfect level, after which it is ready to receive 
the drawing: a weak solution of nitric acid should 
be thrown over the stone. This operation will 
slightly corrode its surface, and dispose it to im- 
bibe moisture, with more facility. While the 
stone is still wet, a cylinder of about three inches 
in diameter, and covered with common printer's 
ink, should be rolled over the whole surface of the 
stone. While the wet part refuses to take the ink, 
the chalk, being greasy, will take a portion of it 
from the roller. The stone is then ready for 
printing. 

The press consists of a box drawn by a wheel, 
under a wooden scraper, pressing on it with great 
power. After the first impression, the stone must 
be wetted afresh, again rolled over with the cylin- 
der, drawn under the scraper, and so on. 

Tite same process is emploj'ed for ink drawings, 
except that the solution of aqua-fortis must be 
stronger, and the printing ink stifi^er. 

Imitations of wood cuts are pi-oduced by covei 
ing the stone with lithographic ink, and sci-aping 
out the intended lights. As the finer touches may 
be added with a hair pencil, prints far superior to 
wood cuts may be obtained, but the chief advan- 
tage of wood cuts, that of printing them at the 
same time with the text of the book, is lost. 



LITHOGRAPHY. 



61 



Engraving upon stone is performed by polish- 
ing the stone, and covering it with a thin coating 
of gum and black. 

The part intended for the drawing must be 
scraped out. and when finished, of course, it ap- 
pears white, instead of black. The thicker lines, 
as in copper, must be cut deeper, and when the 
■whole IS 6nis;ivid, the stone should be rubbed with 
linseed oil, which not being nh\e to penetrate the 
coating of gum, will only touch the stone, where 
it is scraped away. 

Laurent's new method of drmvinir in stone. 

Take the outline of the original design upon 
transparent paper, by tracing all the lines of the 
original with a dry point; the outline is then glued 
by its edges on a board, and there is spread over it, 
with a piece of fine linen, a tolerably hard paste, 
formed of lithographic ink, dissolved in essence of 
turpentine. The ou'line is then rubbed hard with 
a piece of clean linen, until the linen ceases to 
have a black tint. The outline is then transferred 
to the stone by means of the press, placing in a 
vertical paper press the stone and the outline in 
contact, laying upon the latter five and twenty 
sheets of paper, wetted in water with some solu- 
tion of calcined muriate of lime. Upon these last 
sheets are placed large plates of paper, about an 
inch tviick, to prevent injury from a thick and 
straight plank, wliich is to be laid over them. 
Pressure is now applied for one hour, when the 
outline v/ill be found adhering to the stone. The 
paper is to be removed by hot water and the de- 
sign will be left on the stone, which is now wash- 
e J with cold water till no trace of the paper re- 
mains. 

Thenard and Blainvi.lle''s lithograpldc ink. 

Soap one-fourth; mutton suet one-half; yellow 
wax one part; mastic in tears one-half, and as 
much lamp black as necessary. 

Three different methods of printing from stone. 

In the chemical printing office at Vienna, three 
different methods are em])loyed, l)ut that termed 
in relief, is most frequently used. This is the 
general mode of printing music. 

Tiie second method is tti';-, sunk, which is pre- 
ferred for prints. 

The tliird method is the fiat, that is, neitlier 
i-aised nor sunk. This is useful for imitating 
drawings, particularly where the impression is in- 
tended to resemble crayons. For printin,^ and 
engraving in this method, a block of marble is 
em|)loyed, or any other calcareous stone that is 
easily corroded, and will take a good polish. It 
should be two inches and a half thick, and of a 
size propoi'iioned to the purpose for which it is 
intended. A close texture is considered as advan- 
tageous. When the stone is well polished and 
dry, the first step is to trace the drawing, notes, 
or le'tersto be printed with a pencil; the design 
.s not very conspicuous, but it is rendered so by 
passing over the strokes of the pencil a paiticular 
ink, of which a great secret is made. This ink is 
made of a solution of lac in potash, coloured with 
the soot from burning wax, and appears to be the 
most suitable black for the purpose. When the 
design has been gone over with this ink, it is left 
to dry about two hours. After it is dry, nitric acid, 
more or less diluted, according to the degree of 
relief desired, is poured on the stone, which cor- 
rodes every part of it, except when defended by 
the resinous ink. The block being washed with 
water, ink, similar to that commonly used for 
printing, is distributed over it by printer's balls; 
a sheet of paper disposed on a frame is laid on it, 
and this is pressed down by means of a copper 
roller or copper press. 

The sunk, or chalk method, differs from that 



termed relief, only in having stone much more 
corroiied by the nitric acid. In the fiat method, 
less nitric acid is used. It is not to be supposed 
tliat the surface is quite plain in this way, Ijul the 
lines are very little raised so that lliey can scarcely 
be perceived" to stand above the ground, but by the 
finger, 

I'rocess for printing desigiis idth porcelain plates. 
Lithography offers to" draughtfmen the means 
of multiplying original designs at iileasure; but it 
can-ies with it great difficulties for the impression. 
If the stones are defective, if the workman is not 
clever and has not had long experience, the <ie- 
signs are speedily impaired. It is then generally 
to be wished, that lithography might be rendered 
more simple, that the traits may not grow larger, 
and that it may be easy to clean the parts of the 
stone not occupied by the drawing. M. jMnglois, 
porcelain manufacturer at Bnyevx, has discovered 
a peculiar composition which gives him the me- 
thod of tracing with the pencil, and of fixing by a 
second dressing, designs on the porcidain plates 
covered with enamel, and of ren.lering the traits 
sufficiently rough to retain the ink in the impres- 
sion, whilst the enamel is washed that surrounds 
them. By this method proofs may be multiplied 
to injinity, without impairing the designs, and 
traits extremely sharp, fine grains, and even smooth 
tints may be obtained. 

To apply lithography to -wood aigraving. 

The stone sliould be covered witli a fat varnish, 
which may easily be removed with an engraver's 
point. Then let the stone be liollowed out or bit, 
as copper is done, with aqua fortis, so as to pro- 
duce, however, a contrary effect, for the traces of 
the design, instead of being hollow, are here in re- 
lief. The traces should be afterwards worked up 
and repaired, and the hollow part dug still deeper, 
so as to be out of the reach of the printer's ball, 
in this state, the stone will resemble a.T engraving 
on wood, and may, in case of necessity, answer 
the same purpose," but it would not have the same 
solidity. It may be used, however, as a matri.x 
for casting metal plates, presenting the adverse of 
the impressioii, and with the relief being now hol- 
low, may themselves serve to cast new matrixes, 
in every respect similar to the stone. By this 
means, an endless number of impressions may be 
taken, because ttie matei-ials themselves may be 
multiplied. 

The invention is of advantage, not only for vig- 
nettes and figures to be inserted in the text, but 
also for imitating exactly Turkish or Chinese cha- 
racters, &c. It may also be applied to printing of 
paper. 

To make lithographic pencils. 

Mix the following ingredients: 

Soap 3 ounces, tallow 2 ounces, wax 1 ounce. 

When melted smooth, add a sufficient quantity 
of lamp black, and pour it into moulds. 
To take impressions on paper from designs mack 
in stone. 

The stone should be close grained, and the 
drawing or writing should be made with a pen 
dipped in ink, formed of a solution of lac, in leys 
of pure soda, to which some soap and lamp black 
should be added, for colouring. Leave it to har- 
den for a few days ; then take impressions in tjie 
following manner: Dip the surface in water, then 
aab it with printer's ink and printer's balls. The 
ink will stick to the design and not to the stone, 
and the impressions may be taken with wet paper, 
by a rolling or screw press, in the ordinary way. 
Several hundred copies may be taken from the 
same design, in this simple manner. 

Cheap subsiitulefir Uthogral. hie stone. 

Paste-board, op card paper, covered with an ag. 



68 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT KOOK. 



gillo-calcareous mixture, has been employed with 
complete success, and efftcts a great saving. The 
material is to be reduced to a powder, and laid on 
A'et; it sets, of course, immediately, and may be 
api>liecl to a more substantial article than paper, 
and upon a more extensive scale than the inventor 
has yet carried it to. Tliis coating receives the 
ink 01' crayon in the same way that the stone does, 
and furnishes impressions precisely in the same 
manner. 



TO PAINT AND STAIN GLASS AND POR- 
CELAIN. 

To paint upon^lass is an art which has gene- 
rally appeared difficult; yet there is no represen- 
tation p^ore elegant than that of a mezzotinto paint- 
ed in this manner, for it gives all the softness that 
can be desired in a picture, and is easy to work, 
as there are no outlines to draw, nor any sliades to 
make. 

The prints are those done in tnezzotlnto: for 
their shades being rubbed down on the glass, the 
several lines, which represent the shady part of uny 
common print, areby this means blended together, 
and appear as soft and united as in any drawing of 
Indian ink. 

Provide such mezzotintos as are wanted; cut off 
the margin; then get a piece of fine crown glass, 
the size of tlie print, and as flat and free iY-om knots 
and scratches as possible; clean the glass, and lay 
some Venice tm-pentine, quite thin and smooth, on 
one side, with a brush of hog's hair. Lay Iho print 
flat in water, and let it remam on the surface till it 
sinks, it is then enough; take it carefully out, and 
dab it between some papers, that no water may be 
seen, yet so as to be damp. 

Next lay the damp print with its face uppermost 
upon a flat table; then hold tlie glass over it, with- 
out touching the turpentine, till it is exactly even 
with the print, let it fall gently on it. Press the 
glass down carefully with the fingers in several 
parts, so that the turpentine may stick to the print; 
after wliieh take it up, then hohhng the glass to- 
wards you, press the prints with the hngers, from 
the centre towards the edges, till no blisters re- 
main. 

When this is done, wet the back of the paint with 
a sponge, till the paper will rub off with the fingers; 
then rub it gently, and the white paper will roll olf. 
leaving the impression only upon the glass; then 
let it dry, and, with a camel's hair peu3il, dipped 
in oil of turpentine, wet it all over, and it will be 
perfectly transparent and fit for painting. 
Imp7'07iecl method. 

The first thing to be done, in order to paint, or 
stain glass in the modern way, is to design, and 
even colour the whole subject on paper. Then 
choose such pieces of glass as are clear, even, and 
smooth, and proper to receive the several parts. 
Proceed to distribute the design itself, or the pa- 
per it is drav/n on, into pieces suitable to those of 
the glass; always taking care that the glasses may 
join in the contours of the figures, and the folds of 
tlie draperies; that the carnations and other finer 
parts may not be impaired by the lead with whioii 
the pieces are to be joined together. The distri- 
t)Ution being made, mark all tliie glasses, as well 
as papers, that they may be known again: which 
done, apply every part of the design upon the gias? 
intended for it; and copy or transfer the design 
upon this glass with the black colour diluted in 
gum-water, by tracing and following all tlie lines 
and strokes that appear tlirough th.e glass, with the 
point of a pencil. 

When these strokes are well dried, which wijl 



be in about two days; ^the work being only in 
black and white,) give it a slight wash over with 
urine, gum-arabic, and a little black; and repeat 
this several times, according as the shades are de- 
sired to be heightened, with this precaution, never 
to appl}- a new wash till the former is sufficiently 
dried. This done, the lights and risings are given 
by rubbing off the colour in the respective places 
with a w ooden point, or by the handle of the pencil. 

The colours are used with gum-water, the same 
as in painting in miniature, taking care to apply 
tiiem lightly, for fear of effacing the outlines of 
I the design; or even, for the greater security, to- 
apply them on the other side; especially yellow, 
which is veiy pernicious to the other colours, by 
blending therewith. And here too, as in pieces of 
bhick and white, particular regard must always be 
had not to lay colour on colour, till such time a? 
the former is well dried. 

When the painting of all the pieces is finished, 
they are carried to the furnace to anneal, or to bake 
the colours. 

Coloitrs proper to paint tvith upon glass. 

The several sorts of colours, ground in oil for 
this purpose, may be had at all the capital colour 
shops, &c. 

Whites. — Flake white, podium. 

Jilacks. — Lamp-black, ivoiy-black. 

JRroxvns. — Spanish brown, umber, spruce ochre, 
J Dutch pink, orpimeiit. 

JSlues. — Blue bice, Prussian blue. 

Reds. — Rose pink, vermilion, i-ed lead, Indian 
i-ed, lake cinnabar. 

Telk-ws. — English pink, raasticot, English ochre, 
Saunders blue, smalt. 

Greens. — Verdigris, terra vert, verditer. 

The ultramarine for blue, and the carmine for 
red, are rather to be bought in powders, as in that 
state they are less apt to dry; and as the least tint 
of these will give the picture a cast, mix up what 
is wanted for presv=nt use with a drop or two of nut 
oil upon the pallet with tlie pallet-knife. 

To get the colour out, prick a hole at the bottom 
of each bladder, and press it till there is enough 
upon the pallet for us( . 

Then lay a sheet of white paper on the table,. 
and taking the picture in the h;ft hand, with the 
turpentine side next you, hold it sloping, (the bot- 
tom resting on the white paper), and all outlines 
and tints of the prints will be seen on the glassf 
and nothing remains but to lay on the colours pro- 
per for the different parts, as follow : — 
To use the colours. 

As the lights and shades of the picture open, lay 
the lighter colours first on the lighter parts of the 
print, and the darker over the shaded parts; and 
having laid on the brighter colours, it is not mate- 
rial if the darker sorts are laid a little over them; 
for the first colour will hide those laid on after- 
wards. For example: — 

Meus. — Lay on the first red lead, and shade with 
lake or carmine. 

Yellows. — ^Tlie lightest yellow may be laid on 
first, and shaded with Dutch pink. 

Ulues. — Blue bice, or ultramarine, used fov the 
lights, may be shaded with indigo. 

Greens. — Lay on vei'digris first, and then a mix- 
ture of that and Dutch pink. This green may be 
lightened by an addition of Dutch pink. 

W^hen any of these are too strong, they may be 
ligiitened, by mixing white with them upon the 
pallet; or darken them as much as required by 
mixing them with a deeper shade of the same co- 
lour. 

The colours must not be laid on too thick; but 
if troublesome, thin them before using them, witb 
a little turpentine oil. 



TO PAINT ON GLASS. 



69 



Take care to have a pencil for each colour, and 
never use that which has been used for green with 
any other colour, witiiout first washing it well with 
turpentine oil, as that colour is apt to appear pre- 
dominant when the colours are dry. 

Wash all the pencils, after usina:, in turpentine 

Oil. 

The glass, when painted, must stand three or 
four days free from dust, before it is framed. 
To dra-iV on glass. 

Grind lamp-black wit,h gum water and some 
common salt. With a pen or hair pencil, draw 
the design on the glass, and afterwards shade and 
paint it with any of the following compositions. 
Colour for grounds on glass. 

Take iron filings and Dutch yellow beads, equal 
parts, if a little red cast is wanted, add a little 
copper filings. With a steel rauller grind these 
together, on a thick and strong copper plate, or ou 
porphyiy. Then add a little gum arable, borax, 
common salt, and clear water. Mix these with a 
little fluid, and put the composition in a phial for 
use. 

Wlien it is to be used tliere is nothing to do but, 
with a hair pencil, to lay it quite flat on the design 
drawn the day before; and, having left this to dry 
also for another day, with the quill of a turkey, the 
nib unsplit, heighten the lights in the same manner 
as with crayons on blue paper. Whenever there 
are more coats of the above composition put one 
upon another, the shade will naturally be stronger; 
and, when this is finished, lay the colours for gar- 
ments and complexions. 

To prepare lake for glass. 

Grind the lake with water impregnated with gum 
and salt: then make use of it witK the brush. The 
shading is operated by laying a double, treble, or 
more coats of the colour, where it is wanted 
darker. 

Blue purple for the same. — Make a compound of 
lake and indigo, ground together with gum and 
salt water; and use it as directed in tlie preceding 
article. 

Green. — Mix with a proportionable (quantity of 
gamboge, ground together as above. 

Yellow. — Grind gamboge with salt water only. 

fVMte. — Heighten much the white parts witlj a 
pen. 

To transfer engravings on glass. 

Metallic colours prepared and mixed with fat 
oil are applied to- the stamp on the engraved brass. 
Wipe with the baud in the manner of the printers 
of coloured plates; take a proof on a sheet of silver 
paper, wliich is immediately transferred on tl»e ta- 
blet of glass destined to be painted, being careful 
to turn the coloured side against the glass; it ad- 
heres to it, and as soon as the copy is quite dry, 
take off the superfluous paper by washing it with a 
aponge; there will remain only the colour trans- 
ferred to the glass; it is fixed by passing the glass 
through the ovens. 

The basis of all the colours employed in painting 
on glass are oxidated metallic substances. 

In painting on glass it is necessary that the mat- 
ter should be veiy transparent. 
To prepare metallic calces, and precipitates of 
gold. 

A solution of gold in aqua-regia, which is evapo- 
rated to dryness, leaves a cUi.x of gold, which is 
used for glass, enamel, and porcelain gilding; or 
by precipitating tlie solution with green vitriol dis- 
solved in water, with copper, or perhaps all the 
raetals a similar calx is produced. This calx is 
mixed with some essential oil, as oil of spike, and 
calcined borax, and the whole made to adhere to 
tlw surface of the glass, by a solution of gum ara- 



ble. It is then applied witli a fine pencil, and burnt 
in under a muffle. 

To prepare oxide of cobalt. 

Wlien reguluB of cobalt Ls exposed to a moderate 
fire in the open air, it calcines, and is reduced to a 
blackish powder. 

This calx vitrifies with vitrifiable matters, and 
forms beautiful blue glassr?. Cobalt is, at pre- 
sent, the only substance known which has the pro- 
perty of furnishing a very fine blue, that is not 
changed by the most intense heat. 
To prepare zaffre. 

ZafFi-e is the oxide of cobalt, for painting pottery 
ware and porcel-iin of a blue colour. Break thl- 
cobalt with hammers into pieces about the size of 
a hen's egg: and the stony involucrum, witli sucli 
other lieterogeneous matters as are distinguish- 
able, separate as much as possible. Pound the 
chosen mineral in stamping-mills, and sift it 
through brass wire sieves. Wash oft" the lighter 
parts by water, and afterwards put it into a large 
flat-boltomed arched furnace, resembling a bakinr 
oven, where the flame of tlie wood reverl»erates 
upon the ore ; which stir occasionally, and turn 
with long-handled iron hooks, or rakes; and the 
process is to be continued till its fumes cease. 
The oven or furnace terminates by a long horizon- 
tal gallery, which serves for a chimney; in which 
the arsenic, naturally mixed with the ore, sub- 
limes. If the ore contains a little bismuth, as this 
semi-metal is very fusible, collect it at the bottom 
of the furnace. The cobalt remains in the state 
of a dark grey oxide and is called zafprs. This 
operation is continued four, or even nine hours, 
according to the quality of the ore. The roasted 
ore being taken out from the furnace, such parts as 
are concreted into lumps, pound and sift afresh. 
Zaffre, in commerce, is never pure, being mixed 
with two or rather three parts of powdered flints. 
A proper quantity of the best sort of these, aftei 
being ignited in a furnace, are to be thrown into 
water, to render them friable, and more easily re- 
duced to powder; which, being sifted, is mixed with 
the zaffre, according to the before-mentioned dose; 
and the mixture is put into cabks, after being moist- 
ened with water. This oxide, fused with three 
parts of sand, and one of potass, forms a blue glass 
which, when pounded, sifted, and ground in mills, 
(included in large casks), forms sma't. 

The blue of zaffre is the most solid and fixed of 
all the colours employed in vitrification. It suffers 
no change from the most violent fire. It is suc- 
cessfully employed to give shades of blue to ena- 
mels, and to crystal glasses made in imitation of 
opaque and transparent precious stones, as the lapis 
lazuli, the turquoise, the sapphire ami others. 
Purple precipitate of Cassius. 

Dissolve some pure gold in nitro-muriatic acid, 
add either acid, or metal, until saturation takes 
place. Now dissolve some pure tin in the same 
kind of acid; observe the same point of saturation 
as with the gold; and pour it into the solution of 
gold. A purple powder will be precipitated, 
which must be collected and washed in distiileil 
water. 

This beautiful purple colour, as before mention- 
ed, is extremely useful to enamellers, and to glass 
stainers. 

When brought into fusion with a clear transpa- 
rent glass, it tinges it of a purple, red, or violet 
colour. Hence the method of making false rubies 
and garnets. 

To paint coloured drawings on glass. 

This art is exercised two ways. 1. Plates of 
stained glass are cut into tl>e shape of figures, and 
joined by leaden outlines. On these plates, a 



70 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



shading' is afterwards traced hj the painter, which 
.s>;ives features to the face, and folds to the drapery. 
2. Vitrifiable colours are attached to plates of white 
glass, which are afterwards placed in the oven, and 
thus converted into a transparent enamelling. The 
first sort is cheaper, but the shading wears off, by 
the insensible corrosion of the atmosphere. The 
second sort defies every accident except fracture, 
but the colour of the figures suffers in the oven. 
For small objects, the first sort, and for lai-ge ob- 
jects, the second, as far as art is concerned, seems 
best adapted. 

To paint or stain glass black. 
The colours used in painting or staining glass 
are very different from those used in painting either 
in water or oil colours. 

For black, take scales of iron, 1 oz. scales of 
copper, 1 oz. jet, half oz. Reduce them to pow- 
der, and mix them. 

To paint or stain glass blue. 
Take fine white sand, twelve ounces, zaffre and 
minium, each three ounces; reduce them to a fine 
powder in a bell metal mortar, then put the pow- 
der into a very strong crucible, cover it and lute it 
well, and, oeing dry, calcine it over a quick fire 
for an hour; take out the matter and pound it: then 
to sixteen ounces of this powder, add fourteen of 
nitre powder; mix them well, and put them into 
the crucible again: cover and lute it, and calcine it 
for two hours on a very strong fire. 

To paint glass caimqlion. 
Take red chalk, 8 oz. iron scales, and litharge 
of silver, each 2 oz. gum arabie, half oz. Dissolve 
in water; grind altogether for half an hour till stiff, 
then put the compound in a glass, and stir it well, 
and let it stand for 14 days. 

G'^een. — 'Take red lead, 1 lb. scales of copper, 
J. lb. and flint, 5 lbs. Divide them into three parts, 
and add to them as much niti'ate of potass; put 
them into a criTcible, and melt them by a strong 
fire; and when the mass is cold, powder it, and 
grind it on a slab of porphyry. 

Gold colour. — Take silver, 1 oz. antimony, half 

oz. Melt them in a crucible, then pound the mass 

to powder, and grind it on a copper plate; add to 

it, yellow ociire, or brick-dust calcined again, 15 

ounces, and grind them well together with water. 

Ficrple. — Take minium, 1 lb. brown stone, I lb. 

white flint, 5 lbs. Divide them into three parts, 

and add to them as much nitrate of potass as one 

of the parts; calcine, melt, and grind the compound. 

Red. — T.ake jet, 4 oz. litharge of silver, 2 oz. 

red chalk, 1 oz. Powder them fine, and mix them. 

WIdte. — Take jet, 2 parts, white iiint, ground 

on a glass very fine, 1 part. Alix them. 

Telloxv. — Take Spanish brown, 10 parts, silver- 
leaf, 1 part, antimony, half part. Put all into a 
crucible, and c;.leine them well. 



TO COLOUR PAPER HANGINGS. 

There are three methods of effecting this. The 
first by printing the colours; the second by using 
the stencil; and the third by laying them on v/ith 
a pencil, as ia other kinds of painting. 
PHnting the colours. 

When the colours are laid on, the impression is 
made by wooden prints, which are cut in such a 
manner that the figure to be expressed is made lo 
project from the surface, by cutting away all ti.e 
other part, and this being charged with >.ix colours 
properly tempered (by letting it gently down on 
the block on which the colour is previously spread, ) 
conveys it to the ground of the paper, on which it 
is made to fall forcibly by means of its weight, and 
Dy the effort of the arm of the person who uses the 



print. There must be as many separate prints as 
there are colours to be printed. 
Stencilling. 
The maimer of stencilling \\ie colours is this: 
The figure, which all the parts of any particular 
colour make in the uesign to be painted, is to be 
cut out in apiece of tinned iron, thin leather, oroil- 
cloth; these pieces are called stencils; and being 
laid flat on the sheets of paper to be printed, spread 
on a table or floor, are to be rubbed over with the 
colour, properly tempered, by means of a large 
brush. The colour passing over the whole, is con- 
sequently spread on those parts of the paper where 
the tin, cloth, or leather is cut away, and give the 
same effect as if laid on by a print. This is, never- 
theless, only practicable in parts where there are 
only detached masses or spots of colours; for where 
there are small continued lines, or parts that run 
one into another, it is difficult to preserve the con- 
nexion or continuity of the parts of the cloth, or to 
keep the smaller corners close down to the paper: 
therefore in such cases prints are preferable. 
PenciJUng. 
Pencilling is only used in the case of nicer work, 
such as the better miitations of India paper. It is 
performed in the same manner as other paintings 
in water or varnish. It is sometimes used only to 
fill the outlines already formed by printing, where 
the price of the colour, or the exactness of the 
manner in which it is required to be laid on, ren- 
der the stencilling, or printing, less proper; at 
other times, it is used for forming or delineating 
some parts of the design, where a spirit of free- 
dom and variety, not to be had in printed outlines, 
are desirable in the work. 

To makejiock paper hangings. 
The paper designed for receiving the flock, is 
first prepared with a varnish ground with some 
proper colour, or by that of the paper itself It is 
frequently practised to print some Mosaic, or other 
small running figure in colours, on the ground, be- 
fore the flock be laid on; and it may be done with 
any pigment of the colour desired, tempered with 
varnish, and laid on by a pi-int cut correspondently 
to that end. The method of laying ou the flock is 
this: a wooden print being cut, as above described, 
for I.iying on the colour in such a manner that the 
part of the design which is intended for the flock 
may project beyond the rest of the surface, the 
varnish is put on a block covered with leather, or 
oil-cloth, and the print is to be used also in the 
same manner, to lay the varnish on all the parts 
where the flock is to be fixed. 

The sheet thus prepared by the varnished im- 
pression, is then to be removed to another block, 
or table, and to be strewed over with flock, which 
is afterwards to be gently compressed by a board, 
or some other flat body, to make the varnish take 
the better hold of it: and then the sheet is to be 
hung on a frame till the varnish be perfectly dry; 
at which time the superfluous parts of flock are to 
be brushed off by a soft camel's hair brush, and the 
proper flock will be found to adhere in a very 
strong manner. The method of preparing the flock 
is by cutting woollen rags or pieces of cloth, with 
the hand, by means of a large bill or chopping 
knife; or by means of a machine worked by a horse- 
mill. 



TO COLOUR MARBLE. 

This is a nice art, and, in order to succeed in it, 
the pieces of maible on which the experiments are 
tried, must be well polished, and free from the 
least spot or vein. The harder the marble is, the 
better it will bear the heat necessary in the opera- 



TO COLOUR MARBLE. 



71 



am; therefore alabaster, and the common soft 
w hite maiblCj are very improper for performing 
Jiese operations upon. 

Jlpplication of heat. 

Heat is always necessary for opening the pores 
of marble, so as to render it fit to receive the co- 
lours; but the marble must never be made red-hot; 
for then the texture of it is injured, and the colours 
are burnt, and lose their beauty. Too small a de- 
gree of heat is as bad as too great; for, in this case, 
though the marble receives the colour, it will not 
be fixed in it, nor strike deep enough. The pro- 
per degree is that which, without making the mar- 
ble red, will make the liquor lioil upon its surface. 
Menstriiums to strike in the colours. 

These must be varied according to the nature of 
the colour to be used. A lixivium made with 
horse's or dog's urine, with four parts of quick 
lime, and one of pot-ashes, is excellent for some 
colours; common ley of wood-ashes is very good 
for others; for some, spirit of wine is best; and 
lastly, for others, oily liquors, or common white 
wine. 

Colours. 

The colours which have been found to succeed 
best with the peculiar menstruums are these: stone- 
blue dissolved in six times the quantity of spirit of 
wine, or of the vinous lixivium, and litmus dissolv- 
ed in common lev of wood-ashes. An extract of 
saffron, and that colour made of buckthorn berries, 
and called sap-green, both succeed well when dis- 
solved in wine and quicklime. Vermilion, and a 
very fine powder of cochineal, also succeed very 
well in the same liquors. Dragon's blood succeeds 
in spirit of wine, as does also a tincture of logwood 
in the same spirit. Alkanet-root gives a fine colour; 
but the only mensU-uum to be used with it is the 
oil of turpentine. 

Di^y and umrdxecl colours. 

Besides tliese mixtures, there are other colours 
which must be laid on dry and unmixed: viz. dra- 
gon's blood of the finest kind, for a red; gamboge 
tor a yelloiu; green wax, for a green; common 
brimstone, pitcii, and turpentine, for a brown co- 
lour. The marble for these experiments must be 
made considerably hot, and then the colours are to 
be rubbed on dry in the lump. 

To give a fine gold colour. 

Take crude sal ammoniac, white vitriol, and 
verdigris, of each equal quantities. Mix the whole 
thoroughly in fine powder. 

To stain marble red or yellota. 

The staining of marble to all degrees of red or 
yellow, by solutions of dragon's blood or gamboge, 
may be done by reducing these gums to powder, 
and grinding them with the spirit of wine in a 
glass mortar. But, for smaller attempts, no me- 
thod is so good as the mixing a little of either of 



those powders witli spirit of wine in a silver spoon, 
and holding it over burning charcoal. By this 
means a fine tincture will be extracted: and with a 
pencil dipped in this, the finest traces may be made 
on the marble while cold; which, on the Iieating of 
it afterwards, either on sand, or in a baker's oven, 
will all sink very deep, and remain perfectly dis- 
tinct on the stone. It is very easy to make the 
ground colour of tlie marble red or yellow by this 
mode, and leave white veins in it. Tbis is to be 
done by covring the places where the wiiiteness is 
to remain with some white paint, or even with two 
or thi'ee doubles only of paper; either of which 
will prevent the colour from penetrating. 
To give a blue colour. 

Dissolve turnsole in lixivium, in lime and urine, 
or in the volatile spirit of urine; but a better blue, 
and used in ah easier manner, is furnished by the 
Canaiy turnsole. This is only to be dissolved in 
water, and drawn on the place with a pencil: it pene- 
trates very deeply into the marble; and the colour 
may be increased, by drawing the pencil wetted 
afresh several times over the same lines. This 
colour is subject to spread and diffuse itself irre- 
gularly; but it may be kept in regular bounds, by 
circumscribing its lines with beds of wax, or any 
such substance. It should always be laid on cold, 
and no heat given afterwards to the marble. 
To prepare brimstone in imitation of marble. 

Provide a flat and smooth piece of marble; on 
this make a border or wall, to encompass either a 
square or oval table, which may be done either 
with wax or clay. Then having several sorts of 
colours, as while lead, vermilion, lake, ori)iment 
masticot, smalt, Prussian blue, &c. melt on a slow 
fire some brimstone in several glazed pipkins; put 
one particular sort of colour into each, and stir 't 
well together; then having before oiled the marble 
all over within the wall with one colour, quicklj 
drop spots upon it of larger and less size; after 
this, take another colour and do as befoi'e, and so 
on till the stone is covered with spots of all the co- 
lours designed to be used. When this is done, 
consider next what colour the mass or ground oi 
the table is to be: if of a grey colour, then take fine 
sifted ashes, and mix it up with melted brimstone; 
or if red, with English red ochre; if white, with 
white lead; if black, with lamp or ivory black- 
The brimstone for the ground must be pretty hot, 
that the coloured drops on the stone may unite 
and incorporate with it. When the ground is 
poured even all over, next, if necessary, put a thin 
wainscot board upon it: this must be done while 
the brimstone is hot, making also the board hot, 
which ought to be thoroughly dry, in order to 
cause the brimstone to stick better to it. When 
the whole is cold, take it up, and polish it with a 
cloth and oil, and it will look very beautiful. 



BNaiKE£3££ING. 



The art of enamelling consists in the applica- 
tion of a smooth coating of vitrified matter to a 
bright polished metallic surface. It is, therefore, 
a kind of varnish made of glass, and melted upon 
the substance to which it is applied, affording a 
fine uniform ground for an infinite variety of orna- 
ments which are also fixed on by heat. 



The only metals that are enamelled are gold aad 
copper; and with the latter the opaque enamels 
only are used. "Where the enamel is transparent 
and coloured, the metal chosen should not only 
have its surface unalterable when fully red-hot, 
but also be in no degree chemically altered by the 
close contact of melted glass, containing an abim- 



72 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



dance of some kind of metallic oxide. This is the 
chief reason why coloured enamelling on silver is 
impracticable, though the brilliancy of its surface 
isnot impaired by mere heat; for ifan enamel, made 
yellow by oxide of lead or antimony, be laid on 
the surface of bright silver, and be kept melted on 
It for a certain time, the silver and the enamel act 
on each other so powerfully, that the colour soon 
changes from a yellow to an orange, and lastly to a 
dirty olive. Copper is equally altered by the co- 
loured enamels, so that gold is the only metal 
which can bear the long contact of the coloured 
glass at afull red heat without being altered by them. 
To enamel dial plates. 
A piece of thin sheet copper, hammered to the 
requisite convexity, is first accurately cut out, a 
hole drilled in the middle for the axis of the hands, 
and both the surfaces made perfectly bright with 
it brush. A small rim is then made round the cir- 
sumference, with a thin brass band rising a little 
above the level, and a similar i-im round the mar- 
win of the central hole. The use of these is to 
confine the enamel when in fusion, and to keep 
the edges of the plate quite neat and even. The 
substance of the enamel is a fine white opaque 
glass; this is bought in lump by the enamellers, and 
is first broken down with a hammer, then ground 
to a powder sufficiently fine, with some water, in 
an agate mortar; tiie superfluous water being then 
poured oft", the pulverized enamel remains of about 
the consistence of wetted sand, and is spread very 
evenly over the surface of the copperplate. In 
most enaraeliings, and especially on this, it is ne- 
cessary also to counter-enamel the under concave 
surface of the copperplate, to prevent its being 
drawn out of its true shape by the unequal shrink- 
ing of tlie metal and enamel, on cooling. Vac 
this kind of work, the counter-enamel is only about 
half the thickness on the concave, as on the convex 
side. For flat plates, the thickness is the same on 
both sides. 

The plate, covered with the moist enamel pow- 
der, is warmed and thoroughly dried, then gently 
set upon a thin earthen ring, that supports it only 
by touching the outer rim, and put gradually into 
the red hot muffle of the enameller's furnace. This 
furnace is constructed somewhat like the assny- 
furnace, but the upper part alone of the muffle is 
much heated, and some peculiarities are observed 
in the construction, to enaWe the artist to govern 
the fire more accurately. 

The precise degree of heat to be given here, as 
in all enamelling, is that at which the particles of 
the enamel run together into an uniform pasty con- 
sistence, and extend themselves evenly, showing a 
fine polished face; carefully avoiding, on the otlier 
hand, so great a heat as would endanger the melt- 
ing of the thin metallic plate. When the enamel 
is thus seen to sweat down, as it were, to an uni- 
form glossy glazing, the piece is gradually with- 
drawn and coded, otherwise it would fly by the 
action of tiie cold air. 

A second coating of enamel is then laid on and 
fired as before; but this time, the finest powder of 
enamel is taken, or that which remains suspended 
in tiie washings. It is then ready to receive the 
figures and division marks, which are made of a 
black enamel, ground in an agate mortar, to a 
most impalpable powder, worked up, on a pallet, 
with oil of lavender, and laid on with an extremely 
Sne hair brush. The plate is then stoved to eva- 
porate the essential oil, and the figure is burnt in 
as before. Polishing with tripoli, and minuter 
parts of the process, need not be here described. 
To make the purple enamel used in the Mosaic pic- 
tures of Si. Feter''s at Rome. 
Take of sulphur, saltpetre, vitriolj antiraony. 



and oxide of tin, each, 1 lb. minmm, or oxide of 
lead, 60 lbs. 

Mix all together in a crucible, and melt in a fur- 
nace: next take it out and wash it to carry off" the 
salts: after melting in the crucible, add 19 ounces 
of rose copper, half an ounce of prepared zaffi-e, 1 
ounce and a half of crocus martis, made with sul- 
phur, 3 ounces of refined borax, and 1 lb. of a com- 
position of gold, silver, and mercuiy. 

When all are well combined, the mass is to be 
stirred with a copper rod, and the fire gradually 
diminished to prevent the metals from burning. 
The composition thus prepared is finally to be put 
into crucibles and placed in a reverberatory fur- 
nace, where they are to remain 24 hours. The 
same composition will answer for other colours, by 
merely changing the colouring matter. This com- 
position has almost all the characters of real stone; 
and when broken, exhibits a vitreous fracture. — 
Plulosoph. Mag. 

'1 'o make wldte enamel, for porcelain. 
Mix 100 parts of pure lea'd with from 20 to 25 
of the best tin, and bring them to a low red heat 
in an open vessel. The mixture then burns nearly 
as rapidly as charcoal, and oxidates very fast. 
Skim off" the crusts of oxide successively formed, 
till the whole is thoroughly calcined. 

Then mix all the skimmings, and again heat as 
before, till no flame arises from them, and the 
whole is of an uniform gi-ey colour. Take 100 
parts of this oxide, 100 of white sand, and 25 or 
30 of common salt, and melt the whole by a mo- 
derate heat. This gives a greyish mass, often po- 
I rous and apparently imperfect, but which, how- 
ever, runs to a good enamel when afterwards 
heated. 

For metals and finer works. 
The saftd is previously calcined in a very strong 
heat with a fourth of its weight; or, if a more fusi- 
ble compound is wanted, as much of the oxides of 
tin and lead as of salt are taken, and the whole is 
melted into a white porous mass. This is then 
employed instead of the rough sand, as in the pre- 
ceding process. 

The above proportions, however, are not inva- 
riable, for if more fusibility is wanted, the dose of 
oxide is increased, and that of the sand diminished, 
the quantity of common salt remaining the same. 
I'he sand employed in this process is not the com- 
mon sort, however fine; but a micaceous sand, in 
I which the mica forms about one-fourth of the mix- 
ture. 

JVew enamel for porcelain. 
Melt together, pulverized feldspar, 27 parts, 
borax 18 parts, sand, 4 do. potash, nitre, and pot- 
ter's earth, 3 parts each. 

Then add three parts of borax reduced to fine 
powder. 

From the trial which the society of Arts in Lon- 
don ordered to be made of this enamel, it has been 
found superior to any hitherto known. It is easily 
and uniformly applied, and spreads without pro- 
ducing bubbles, or spoutings out; it neither co- 
vers nor impairs even the most delicate colours. 
It incorporates perfectly with them, and the por- 
celain which is covered over with it may pass a 
second time through the fire, without this enamel 
cracking or breaking out. 

Material for opaque enamels. 
Neri, in his valuable treatise on glass making, 
has long ago given the following proportions for 
the common material of all the opaciue enamels, 
which Kuuckel and other practical chemists have 
confirmed. — Calcine 30 parts of lead, with 33 of 
tin, with the usual precautions. Then take of this 
calcined mixed oxide 50 lbs. and as much of pow- 
dered flints ^prepared by being thrown into wattt 



ENAMELLING. 



when red hot, and then ground to powder), and 8 
ounces of salt of tartar; melt the mixture in a 
strong fire kept up for ten hours, after which re- 
duce the mass to powder. 

To make it -white. 

Mix 6 lbs. of the compound with 48 grains of 
the best black oxide of manganese, and melt in a 
clear fire. When fully fused, throw it into cold 
water, then re-melt and cool as before, two or 
three times, till the enamel is quite white and fine. 
Rich red coloured enamel. 

The most beautiful and costly colour known in 
enamelling, is an exquisitely fine ricii red, with a 
purplish tinge, given by the sails and oxides of 
gold; especially by the purple precipitate, formed 
by tin in one form or other; and by nitromuriate 
of gold; and also by the fulminating gold. This 
beautiful colour requires much skill in the artist, 
to be fully brought out. When most perfect it j 
should come from the fire quite colourless, and af- 
terwards receive its colour by the flame of a can- 
dle. 

Other, and common reds, are given by the oxide i 
of iron; but this requires the mixture of alumine, 
or some other substance refractory in the fire, 
otherwise at a full red heat, the colour will de- 
generate into black. 
fo prepare the flux for enamelling on glass vessels. 

Take of satximus glorificatus, I lb. natural crys- 
tal, calcined to whiteness, 1-2 lb. salt of polverine, 
lib. 

Mix them together, and bake in a slow hept for 
about 12 hours, then melt the mass, and pulverize 
the same in an agate mortar, or any other proper 
vessel, which is not capable of communicating any 
metallic or other impurity. 

To prepare glorificattis. 

Take litharge of white lead, put it in a pan, 
pour on distilled vinegar, stirring it well over a 
gentle fire till the vinegar becomes impregnated 
with the salt of the lead; evaporate half the vine- 
gar, put It in a cool place to crystallize, and keep 
the crystals dry for use. 

To make green enamel. 

Take of copper-dust, 1 oz. sand, 2 oz. litharge, 
1 oz. nitre, ^ oz. Or, copper, 2 oz. sand, 1 oz. 
litharge, 2 oz. nitre, l^ oz. 

Mix them with equal parts of flux, or vary the 
proportions of them as may be found necessary, 
according to the tint of colour required. 

Black enameli — Take of calcined iron, cobait, 
crude or prepared, each 1 oz. Or, zaffre, 2 oz. 
manganese, 1 oz. 

Mix them with equal parts of flux, by melting 
or grinding together. 

Yellow enamel. — Take of lead and tin ashes, 
litharge, antimony and sand, each 1 oz. nitre, 4 
ounces. 

Calcine, or melt them together; pulverize, and 
mix them with a due proportion of flux, as the na- 
ture of the glass may require; or take more or less 
of any or ah of the above, according to the depth 
of colour desired. 

Blue enamel. — Take of prepared cobalt, sand, 
red-lead, and nitre, each 1 oz. flint glass, 2 oz. 

Melt them together by fire, ptdverized and flux- 
ed according to the degree of softness, or strength 
of colour required. 

Olive enamel. — Take, of the blue as prepared 
above, I oz. black, ^ oz. yellow, ^ oz. Grind 
them for use. If necessary add flux to make it 
softer. 

White enamel, — ^Take of tin, prepared by aqiia- 

fortis, and red-lead, each I oz. white pebble-stone, 

or natural crystal, 2 oz. nitre, 1 oz. arsenic i 

drachm, with equal parts of flux, or more or less, 

K 



as the softness or opacity may require: melt to- 
gether, calcine, or use raw. 

JPurple enamel. — Take the finest gold ; dissolve 
it in aqua-i-egia, regidated with sal-ammoniac; put 
it in a sand heat for about 48 hours, to digest the 
gold, collect the powder, grind it with 6 limes its 
weiglit of sulphur, put it into a crucible on tlie fin^ 
till the sulphur is evaporated; then amalgamate the 
powder with twice its weight of mercury, put it 
into a mortar or other vessel, and rub it together 
for about six hours, with a siiiall quantity of water 
ill the mortar, which change frequently; evaporate 
the remaining mercury in a crucible, and add to 
the powder 10 times its weight of flux, or more or 
less, as the hardness or softness of the colour may 
require. 

Rose-coloured enamel. — Take purple as pre- 
pared above, mix it with 30 times its weight of 
flux, and lOOth part of its weight of silver leaf, or 
any preparation of silver, or vary the proportion of 
the flux and silver as the quality of the colour may 
require; or any of the other preparations for pur- 
ple will do, varying the x>roportions of tlie flux 
and silver as above; or any materials, from which 
purple can be produced, will, with the addition of 
silver and flux, answer. 

Brown enamel. — Take of red-lead, i ounce, cal- 
cined iron, 1 oz. antimony, 2 oz. litharge, 2 oz. 
zaffre. I oz. sand, 2 oz. 

Calcine, or melt together, or use raw, as may 
be most expedient; or vary the proportions of any 
or all the above, as tint or quality may require. 
JMode of application. 

The preceding colours may be applied to vessels 
of glass in the following manner, viz. by painting, 
printing, or ti-ansferring, dipping, floating, and 
grounding. 

By painting. — Mix the colours (when reduced 
by grinding to a fine powder) with spirits of tur- 
pentine, temper tliem with thick oil of turpentine, 
and apply them with camel-hair pencils, or any 
other proper instrument, or mix them with nut or 
spike oil, or any other essential or volatile oil, or 
with water, in which case use gum arable, or any 
other gum that will dissolve in water, or with spi- 
rits, varnishes, gums of every kind, waxes, or re- 
sins; but the first is conceived to be the best. 

By printing. — Take a glue bat, full size for the 
subject, charge the copperplate with the oil or co- 
lour, and take the impression with the bat from the 
plate, which impression transfer on the glass: if 
the impression is not strong enough, shake some 
dry colour on it which will adhere to the moist co- 
lour; or take any engraving or etching, or stamp, 
or cast, and having charged it with the oil or co- 
lour, transfer it on the glass by means of prepareci 
paper, vellum, leather, or any other substance 
that will answer; but the first is the best. Any 
engravings, etchings, stamps, casts, or devices, 
may be chai'ged with waters, oils, varnishes, or 
glutinous matters of any kird, reduced to a proper 
state, as is necessary in printing in general; any 
or all of these may be used alone, or mixed with 
the colours. When used alone, the colour is ta 
be applied in powder. 

By dipping. — Mix the colour to about the con- 
sistency of a cream with any of the ingredieL;ts 
used for printing, in which dip the glass vessel, 
and keep it in motion till smooth. 

By floating. — Mix the colour with any of the 
ingredients used for printing, to a consistency ac- 
cording to the strength of the ground required, 
float it through a tube, or any other vessel, moving 
or shaking the piece of glass till the colour is 
spread over the part required. 

By grounding. — First charge the glass vessel 

u 



74 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



with oil of turpentine, with a camel-hair pencil, 
and while moist apply the colour In a dry powder, 
which will adhere to he oil, or, instead of oil of 
turpentine, use any of the materials used for print- 
ing; but the first is the best. 
Cautions to be obsei^ed in making coloured ena- 
mels. 

In making these enamels, the following general 
cautions are necessary to be observed. 1st. That 
the pots he glazed with white glass, and be such as 
will bear the fire. 

2d. That the matter of enamels be very nicely 
mixed with the colours. 

3d. When the enamel is good, and the colour 
well incorporated, it must be taken from the fire 
with a pair of tongs. 

General method of making coloured enamels. 

Powder, sift, and grind all the colours very nice- 
ly, and first mix them with one another, and then 
with the common matter of enamels; then set 
tbem in pots in a furnace, and when they are well 
mixed and incorporated, cast them into water, and 
when dry, set them in a furnace again to melt, and 
when melted take a proof of it. If too deep co- 
loured, add more of the common matter of ena- 
mels; and if too pale add more of the colours. 
To obtain black enamel with platina. 

Mix some chlorine of platina, dissolved in wa- 
ter, with neutv!r-nitrate of mercury, and expose 
the precipitate, which will be formed, to a lieat 
simply sufficient to volatilize theprolo-chlorine of 
mercury; there will be obtained a black powder, 
which, ap{)lied with a dissolvent or flux, gives a 
beautiful hlack enamel.— -Annales de Chimie. 
To make enamel, called niello. 

Take 1 part of pure silver, 2 of copper, and 3 
of pure lead, fuse them together, and pour the 
amr.lgam into a long-necked earthenware matrass, 
half filled with levigated sulphur; let the mouth 
of the vessel be immediately closed, and the con- 
tents left to cool. The mass which results, when 
levigated and washed, is ready for the purposes of 
the artist. The cavities left by the fusion having 
oeen filled with it, the plate is to be held over a 
small furnace, fed with a mixture of charcoal and 
wood, taking care to distribute the enamel with 
the proper instrument. As soon as fusion has ta- 
ken place, the plate is to be i-emoved; and, when 
sufficiently cooled, is to be cleared by the file, and 
polished by fine pumice and tripoli. 
To paint in enamel. 

Tlie enamel painter has to work, not with actual 
colours, but with mixtures, which he only knows 
from experience will produce certain colours after 
the delicate operation of the fire; and to the com- 
mon skill of the painter, in the aiTangement of his 
palette and choice of his colours, the enameller lias 
to add muclj practical knowledge of the chemical 
operation of one metallic cxide on another; the fu- 
sibility of his materials; and the utmost degree of 
heat at which they w'll retain, not only the accu- 
racy of the figures which he has given, but the pre- 
cise shade of colour which he intends to lay on. 

Painting in enamel requires a succession of fir- 
ings: first of the ground which is to receive the 
design, and which itself requires two firings, and 
then of the Uifterent parts ofihe design itselt. The 
ground is laid on in the same genei-al way as the 
coram 0.1 watch face enamelling. 'I'he colours are 
the different metallic oxides, melted with some 
vitrescent mixture, and ground to extreme fineness. 
These are worked up with an essential oil (iliat of 
spikenard is prefeiTed, and next to it oil o^ laven- 



der) to the proper consistence of oil colours, and 
are laid on with a very fine hair brush. The es- 
sential oil should be very pure, and the use of this, 
rather than of any fixed oil, is, that the whole may 
evaporate completely in a moderate lieat, and leave 
no carbonaceous matter in contact with the colour 
when red liot, which might affect its degree of oxi- 
dation, and thence the shade of colour which it is 
intended to produce. As the colour of some vitri- 
fied metallic oxides (such as that of gold) will 
stand at a very moderate heat, whilst others will 
bear, and even require a higher temperature to be 
properly fixed, it forms a great part of the techni- 
cal skill of the artist to supply the different colours 
in proper order; fixing first those shades which are 
produced bj^ the colours that will endure the high- 
est, and finishing with those lliat demand the least 
heat. The outline of the design is first traced on 
the enamel, ground and burnt in; after which, the 
parts are filled up gradually by repeated burnings, 
to the last and finest touches of the tenderest ena- 
mel. 

Transparent enamels are scarcely ever laid upon 
any other metal than gold, on account of the dis- 
coloration produced by other metals. If, however, 
copper is the metal used, it is first covered with a 
thin enamel coating, over which gold leaf is laid 
and burnt in, so tliat, in fact, it is still this metal 
that is the basis of the ornamental enamel. 
To manufacture Mosaic as at Home. 
Mosaic work consists of variously shaped pieces 
of coloured glass enamel; and when tliese pieces 
are cemented together, they form those regular 
and other beautiful figures which constitute tessel- 
lated pavements. 

The enamel, consisting of glass mixed with me- 
tallic colouring matter, is heated for eight days in 
a glass-house, each colour in a separate pot. The 
melted enamel is taken out with an iron spoon, and 
poured on polished marble placed horizontally; 
and another flat marble slab is laid upon the sur- 
face, so that the enamel cools into the form of a 
round cake, of the thickness of three-tenths of an 
inch. 

In order to divide the cake into smaller pieces, 
it is placed on a sharp steel anvil, called tagliulo, 
which has the edge uppermost; and a stroKe of an 
edged hammer is given ou the upper surface of the 
cake, which is thus divided into long parallele- 
pipeds, or pi-isms, whose bases are three-tenths of 
an inch scjuare. These parallelepipeds are again 
divided across their length by the tagliulo and ham- 
mer into pieces of the length of eiglit-tenths of an 
inch, to be used in the Mosaic pictui'es. Some- 
times the cakes are made thickei' and the pieces 
larger. 

For smaller pictures, the enamel, whilst fused, 
is drawn into long parallelopipeds, or quadrangu- 
lar sticks; and these are diviued across by the tag- 
liulo and hammer, or by a file; some'^imes, also, 
these pieces are divided by a saw without teeth, 
consisting of a copper blade and emery; and the 
pieces are sometimes polished on a horizontal 
wheel of lead with emery. 

Gilded Mosaic. 
Gilded Mosaic is fo'-med by applying the gold 
leaf on the hot S'lrface of a brown enamel, imme- 
diatelj after the enamel is taken from the furnace; 
the whole is put into the furnace again for a short 
time, and when it is taken out the gold is firmly 
fixed on the surface. In the gilded enamel, used 
in Alosaic at Rome, there is a thin coat oftratispa 
rent glass over the gold. 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



ISNGmklTllttG. 



The (lifTerent modes of engraving are the follow- 
ing: — 

1. lu sirokes cut through a thin wax, laid upon 
the copper, with a point, and these strokes bitten 
or corroded into the copper with aqua-fortis. This 
is called etcMng. 

2. In strokes with the graver alone unassisted by 
aqua-fortis. In this instance, the design is traced 
with a sharp tool, called a dry point, upon the 
plate; and tlie strokes are cut or ploughed upon the 
copper witli an instrument distinguished by the 
name of a graver. 

3. In mezzotinto, which is performed by a daric 
ground being raised uniformly upon the plate witli 
a torthed tool. 

4. In aquatinta, the outline is first etched, and 
afterwards a sort of wash is laid by the aqua-fortis 
upon the plate, resembling drawings in Indian ink, 
bistre, &c. 

5. On wood, performed with a single block. 

6. On wood, with two, three, or more blocks. 
This mode of engraving is called chiar' oscnro, 

and was designed to represent the drawings of the 
old masters. 

7. Engraving on steel. 

EtcMng. 

Etching is a method of working on copper, 
wherein the lines or strokes instead of being cut 
with a graver, are eaten with aqua-fortis. 
JMaterials, &c. 

The principal materials for this art are, the cop- 
per-plate, hard and soft ground, (the first for win- 
ter, and the other for summer,) a dabber, turpen- 
tine-varnish, lamp-black, soft wax, and aqua-fortis. 

The tools are an oil-rubber, a burnisher,a scraper, 
a hand-vice, etehing-boards, etching-needles, an 
oil stone, and a parallel ruler. 

To lau on the groxmd or varnish. 

Having provided a plate of the size of the draw- 
ing intended to be copied, rub it well with an oil- 
rubber made of swan-skin flannel, till all the marks 
of the charcoal used in polishing it, entirely disap- 
pear; then, wipe off the dirty oil with a linen i-ag, 
dip the finger in some clean oil, and touch it over 
every part of the plate; after which, with the bur- 
nisher, polish the plate; and in case any sand-holes 
or flaws appear, the scraper will assist in taking 
them out. The marks left by the scraper are to 
be taken out by the burnisher "till nothing appear. 
Having fixed the hand- vice at one end of the plate 
with a rag and whiting, clean the plate carefully 
from grease; then heat it over a charcoal fii-e, or 
lighted paper, lay the ground on thinly, and dab it 
all over with the dabber, till it is perfectly smooth 
and even; then warm the plate again, and, holding 
>t up with the ground downwards, smoke it all over 
with a wax candle, taking care that tlie snuff" of it 
does not touch the ground, and wave the candle 
continually over every part, so that the groftnd may 
not be burnt by heating it more in one place than 
Hnother. If the plate be large, bind four wax-ta- 
ners together. 

To trace the outlines. 

Ru' the back part of the drawing &11 over with 
a bi'„ o-{ rag or cotton, dipt in the scrapings of red 
chalk, and shake off the loose dust, or wipe it oft" 
gently with a clean rag. Place the red side upon 
the plate, making it fast at each corner with a lit- 
tle bit of soft wax. Lay tlie etciiing board under 
the hand, to prevent bruising the ground; t len with 
a blunt etching needle trace lightly the outlines 



and breadths of the shadows till the marks of them 
appear upon the ground, taking care not to pene- 
ti-ate it by tracing too hard. 

As great nicety is required in this part of the 
work, it will be necessary now and then to lift up 
one corner of the original, and examine whether 
eveiy part be traced before the taking it oft", as it 
will be extremely difficult to lay it down again in 
its former position. 

Directions for etching. 

Having carefully traced the original, take it off, 
and lay a silk handkerchief next the plate, and 
over that the etching board; then proceed to the 
etching; for which, observe the following direc- 
tions. 

Distances in landscapes, or the faint parts of any 
other picture, are the first tc be done: and these 
are to be worked closer, and with a sharper pointed 
needle: the darker parts must be etched wider, 
and with a blunter needle; but to prevent mistakes, 
the needles may be marked according to their dif- 
ferent degrees, and the uses t'or which they are in- 
tended. As for the very faintest parts of all, they 
ai'e to be left for the graver, or dry needle. 

In buildings, and all architecture in general, use 
a parallel ruler, till frequent practice enables the 
artist to do them well enough wiliiout. 

The needles may, when necessary, be whetted 
upon the oil-stone, keeping them turning in the 
hand, so as to whet them equally all round. The 
oil-stwne will be further-' useful in whetting the 
scraper, which is to be ribbed flat upon the stone, 
and with a steady hand, keeping oil constantly upon 
the stone. 

To bite or eat in the ivorh tuith agna foriis. 

Examine the work carefully and see that nothing 
is omitted; and if any sci-atches appear upon the 
ground, or mistakes be committed, stop them out, 
by covering them with a mixture of lamp-black 
and varnish, laid on thinly with a hair-pencil, 
whicli, when diy, will resist the aqua-fortis. I*: 
will be better, however, to stop these out, as they 
occur in the course of the work, as they wiil 
be less liable to escape notice; when the varnish is 
dry, etch it over again if required. 

Then inclose the work with a rim or border of 
soft wax, about half an inch high, bending the wax 
in the form of a spout, at one corner, to pour oft' 
the aqua-fortis; take care to lay the wax so close 
to the plate that no vacancies be left. 

The aqua-fortis must be single; and if too strong, 
as will be seen in the biting, lake it oft', and mix 
it with a little water, shaking them together in a 
bottle; and when, by often using, it becomes too 
weak, it may be strengthened by mixing it with a 
little double aqua-fortis. The bottle which con- 
tains the aqua-fortis, should have a large mouth 
and a glass stepper. 

Let the aqua-fortis lie on the plate a short time, 
wiping off ti>e bubbles as they arise with a feather, 
which may remain upon the plate while it is bit- 
ing; after which take it oft", and wash the jjlate with 
water; then let it dry, and by scraping oii'part of 
tiie ground from the faintest part of tlie work, tiy 
if it be bit enough; and if not, slop est the part 
whicli has been tried with the lamp-black and var- 
nish, and when that is diy, pour on the a,^ua-forti 
again. 

When the faint parts of the work »~e bit enoogti, 
stop them out, and proceed to bite the sti'onger 
parts, stopping them out as occasion requires, till 



76 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK 



the whole work is sufficiently bit; then warm the 
plate, and take off the soil wax: after which, heat 
the plate till the ground melts, pour on a little oil, 
and wipe tLe Avhole off with a rag. When the 
ground is taken off, rub the work well with the oil- 
rubber, and wipe the plate clean; then proceed to 
finish it with the grai'er. 

Engraving tools. 
The tools necessary for engraving, are the oil- 
rubber, burnisher, scraper, oil-stone, needles, and 
ruler, already mentioned to be used in etcliing; 
also gravers, ecsmpasses, ana a sand bag. 

Gravers are of two sorts, square and lozenge. 
Three of each sort should be provided. The first 
is used in cutting the broader strokes, the other 
for the fainter and more delicate ones. No 
graver should exceed the length of five inches and 
a half, the handle included, excepting for straight 
lines. 

The sand-bag or cushion is used to lay the 
plate on, for the convenience of turning it about. 
To ruhet and temper the graver. 

As great pains are required to whet the graver 
nicely, particularly the belly of it, care must be 
taken to lay the two angles of the graver, wliich 
are to be held next the plate, flat upon the stone, 
and rub them steadily, till the belly rises gradual- 
ly above the plate, sc that when the graver is laid 
flat upon it, the light may be just perceived unuer 
the point, otherwise it will dig into the copper, and 
then it will be impossible to keep a point, or exe- 
cute the work with freedom. Keep the right arm 
close to the side, and place the forefinger of the 
left hand upon that part of the graver which lies 
uppermost on the stone. When this is done, in 
order to whet the face, place the flat part of the 
handle in the hollow of the hand, with the beily of 
the graver upwards, upt^n a moderate slope, and 
I'ub the extremity or face upon the stone, till it has 
an exceeding sharp point. The oil-stone, while in 
use, must never be kept without oil. 

Wlien the graver is too hard, which may be 
known by the trequent breaking of the point, the 
method of tempering it is as follows: — 

Heat a poker red-liot, and tiold the graver upon 
it within half an inch of the point, waving it to and 
fro till the steel changes to a light straw colour; 
then put the point into oil to cool; or hold the 
graver close to the flame of a candle till it be of 
the same colour, and cool it in the tallow; but be 
careful either way not to hold it too long, for then 
it will be too soft; and in this case the point, which 
will then turn blue, must be broken off, whetted 
afresh, and tempered again if required. 
To hold the graver. 

Hold the handle in the hollow of the hand, and 
extending the fore-finger down towards the poiat, 
let it rest unon the back of the graver, so as to hold 
it flat and parallel witli the plate. 

Take care that the fingers do not interpose be- 
tween the plate and the graver, for they will pre- 
vent the artist from carrying the graver level with 
the plate, and from cutting the strokes so clean as 
they ought to be. 

To lay the design upon the plate. 

After polishing it fine and smooth, heat it so that 
it will melt virgin tuax, with which rub it thinly 
and equally over, and let it cool. Then the design 
must be drawn on paper with a black lead pencil, 
and laid upon the plate with its pencilled side upon 
the wax; press it to, and with a burnisher go over 
every \)art of the design; then with a sharp-pointed 
tool, trace it through the wax upon the plate, take 
off the wax and proceed to work. 

To engrave on copper. 

Place the sand-bag on a firm table, or fixed board 
with the plate upon it; and holding the graver as 



above directed, proceed to business in the follow 
ing manner: — 

For straight strokes, hold the plate firm upon the 
sand-bag with the left hand, moving the right hand 
forwards, leaning lighter where the stroke should 
be fine, and harder where it shi/uld be broader. 

For circular or crooked strokes, hold the graver 
steadfast, moving the hand or the plate as most 
convenient. Carry Uie hand with such a sleight, 
that the stroke may be ended as finely as it was be-« 
gun; and if there is occasion to make one part 
deeper or blacker than another, do it by degi-ees, 
taking care that the strokes be not too close nor too 
wide. 

In the course of the work, scrape off the bnr or 
roughness which arises with the belly of the grav- 
er, but be careful in doing this, not to scratch the 
plate; rub it with the oil rubber, and wipe the plate 
clean, which will take off the glare of the copper, 
and shew what has been done to the best advantage. 
Any mistakes or scratches in the plate may be 
rubbed out with the burnisher, and the part level- 
led with the scraper, polishing it again afterwards 
lightly with the burnisher. 

The piece may now be finished by graving up 
the several parts to the colour of the original, be- 
ginning, as in etching, with the fainter parts, and 
advancing gradually with the stronger, till the whole 
is completed. 

Tlie dry needle (so called because not used till 
the ground is taken off the plate) is principally em- 
ployed in the extreme light parts of water, sky, dra- 
pery, architecture, Stc. 

To prevent too gi-eat a degree of light, use a sash, 
made of transparent or fan paper, pasted on a frame 
and placed sloping at aconvenient distance between 
the work and the light. 

To engrave upon copl)er in alto relievo. 
The new art of engraving upon copper, which 
Mr Lizars of Edinburgh has in\ented, is a substi- 
tute for wood engraving, in the same manner as li- 
thography is a substitute for copper-plate engra- 
ving; but while Mr Lizars has given us a cheaper 
art for a more expensive one, he has also given us 
a more perfect art for one which is full ot imper- 
fections. 

In the common operation of engraving, the de- 
sired effect is produced by making incisions upon 
the copper-plate with a steel instrument of an an- 
gular sliape, which incisions are filled with print- 
ing ink, and transferred to tlie paper by the pres- 
sure of a roller, which is passed over 'ts surface. 
There is another mode of producing these lines oi 
incisions by means of diluted nitrous acid, in which 
the impression is taken in the same way. Mr Li- 
zars' new method of engraving is done upon a prin- 
ciple exactly the reverse, for instead of the subject 
beiiigcut into the copper, it is the interstice between 
the lines which is removed by diluted aqua-fortis, 
and the lines are left as the surface: from which 
the impression is taken by means of a common 
type printing press, instead of a copper-plate 
press. 

This is effected by drawing with common tur- 
pentine farnish, covered with lamp-black, whatever 
is i-equired upon the plate, and when the varnish 
is thoroughly dry, the acid is poured upon it, and 
the interstice of course removed by its action upon 
the uncovered part of the copper. If the subject is 
very full of dark sivadows, this operation will be . 
performed with little risk of accident, and with the 
removal of very little of the interstice between the 
lines: but if the distance between the lines is great, 
the risk and difficulty is very much increased, ajid 
it will be requisite to cut away the pai-ts which sur- 
round ♦^he lines, with a graver, in oraer to prevent 
the daboer with the printing ink from reaching 



ENGRA\1XG. 



the bottom, and thus producing a bluired impres- 
sion. It is obvious, therefore, that the more the 
plate IS covered with work, the less risk will there 
be in the preparation of it with the acid, after the 
'.subject is drawn, and the less trouble will there be 
in removing the interstice (if any) from those places 
where there is little shading. 

To make oordering tvcix for copperplates. 

Take one-third of bees wax, and two-thirds of 
pitch: melt them in a pipkin or iron ladle, and 
pour them into Iuke-^^■arm water. \Vl»en well 
mixed, and the water is squeezed out, form it into 
rolls of convenient size. 

When wanted for use, "t must be put into luke- 
warm water to soften it, and render it easily worked 
by the nand. When sufficiently pliable, it must 
be drawn out into long rolls, and p'lt round tbe 
edges of the plate, from half an inch to an inch 
high. Mould a spout at one corner to pour off the 
aqua-fortis. 

Another method. — Melt bees-wax with a small 
portion of Venice turpentine and tallow, until it 
becomes of a proper consistencj-. 

This IS used for placing round the plate about 
an inch high, previously to pouring on the aqua- 
fortis. At one corner a spout or gutter should be 
made fnr the purpose of pouring off the aqua-fortis, 
when the etching is sufficiently bit in. 
To make Remb"andfs -white varnish for engraving. 

Take of virgin-wax, one ounce, of mastic, half 
an ounce, of calcined asphaltum, or of amber, half 
an ounce. Pound the mastic and asphaltum sepa- 
rately in a mortar; put the wax into a new earthen- 
ware pot well glazed, and place it over a fire, till 
the wax be melted; then sprinkle in, by little and 
little, tbe mastic and asphaltum, and stir the mix- 
ture well together till the whole be incorporated. 
Pour the melted matter afterwards into clean water, 
and form it into a ball which must be kept for use. 

In using this varnish, it is proper to take particu- 
lar care of three things. The first, not to heat the 
plate too much when the varnish is put upon it. 
Tbe second, to lay the first coat of varnish as thin 
as possible, in order to be able to spread the white 
varnish upon it, without rendering the whole of too 
great a thickness: The tlxird, to omit blackening 
this varnish with smoke, as is done with the com- 
mon; but when it is become entirely cold, take a 
piece of white lead, and having ground it extreme- 
ly fine, temper it with gum water; and then, with 
a pencil, lay a coat of it veiy thinly and equally 
over the whole plate. Thi sis the manner in which 
Rembrandt varnished his plates. 

Callot's soft varnish. 

Take of virgin-wax, four ounces, of amber, (or 
of the best asphaltum calcined), and of mastic, 
each two ounces, of resin, common pitch, or shoe- 
maker's wax, each one ounce, and of varnish, or 
turpentine, half an ounce. 

Having prepared all these ingredients, take a 
new earthen-pot, and put it over the fire, witli the 
virgin-wax in it; and when that is melted, add gra- 
dually to it the pitch; and afterwards the powders, 
stirring the mixture each time in proportion to the 
addition made to it. When the whole is sufficiently 
melted and mixt together, take the pot from the 
fire, and having poured the mass in an earthen ves- 
sel, full of clean water, fo'-m it into balls, by work- 
ing it with the hands, and keep them in a box, free 
from dust, for use. 

The two ounces of mastic are to be used only in 
summer, because it hardens the varnish, and pre- 
serves it from being cracked by the engraver's lean- 
ing over the plate during the graving; but in that 
designed for winter, only one ounce should be 
put. 



Salmon''s soft vamish. 

Take of virgin-v/ax, four ounces, asphaltum, two 
ounces, amber and mastic, each one ounce. 

The preparation is much the same as for the 
preceding, only caution should be used that the 
fire be not too strong, as the varnish will, other- 
wise, be apt to burn. This varnish is only for 
summer use, and would be too hard for winter. 
Excellent Parisian soft varnish. 

Take of virgin- wax, and of asphaltum, or Greek 
pitoli, each one ounce; of black pitch, half an ounce, 
and of Burgundy pitch, a quarter of an ounce. The 
as])haltum must be pounded in a mortar, and the 
wax melted over a slow fire, in a pot of glazed 
earthenware; and tbe rest of the ingredients added 
little by little, stirring llie mixture accordingly, 
till tlie whole be well melted and incorporated; 
and takin£i, care that the matter ?3e not suffered to 
burn. Afterwards throw the whole mass into an 
earthen vessel full of clean water, and knead it 
with the hands, to form it into little balls; and then 
roll them up in new strong taffety for use. 

Another soft varnish. — Take of virgin-wax, two 
ounces and a half, of Burgundy pitch, three ounces, 
of resin, half an ounce, asphaltum, two ounces, 
and turpentine, one penny-worth: this varnish is 
very good, and well approved. The preparation 
is the same as that of those already given. 
La-wrence^s soft varnish. 

Take of virgin-wax and asphaltum, each two 
ounces, of black pitch and Burgundy pitch, each 
half an ounce. Melt the wax and pitch in a new 
earthen-ware glazed pot, and add to them, by de- 
grees, the asphaltum finely powdered. Let the 
whole boil till such time, as that taking a drop 
upon a plate, it will break when it is cold, on 
bending It double three or four times, betwixt the 
fingers; the varnish being then enough boiled, must 
be taken oiF the fire, and having been suffered to 
cool a little, must be poured into warm water, that 
it may work the more easily with the hands, so as 
to be formed into balls, which must be wrapt in 
taffety for use. 

It must be observed, first, that the fire be not too 
violent, for fear of burning the ingi-edients; a slight 
simmering will be sufficient: 2dly, that while the 
asphaltum is putting in, and even after it is mixt 
with them, the ingredients should be stirred con- 
tinually with a spatula; and 3dly, that the water, 
into which this composition is xiirown, should be 
nearly of the same degree of warmth with it, to 
prevent a kind of cracking that happens when the 
water is too cold. 

The varnish ought always to be harder in sum- 
mer than in winter, and it will become so, if it be 
suffered to boil longer, or if a greater proportion 
of the asphaltum or brown resin be used. 

To apply soft varnish to copper plates. 

The plate being well polished and burnished, 
also cleansed from all greasiness, by chalk or Spa- 
nish white, put it upon a chafing-dish, in which 
there is a moderate fire, observing to hold it so that 
it may not burn. It is to be left over the fire, til! 
it be so hot that the varnish, being brought in con- 
tact with it, may melt. Then take some of the 
soft varnish well wrapt up in taffety, that is free 
from all grease and dirt, and also strong and sound 
in every part. With this rub the plate, fixed over 
the fire till it grow hot. In doing this, it should 
be gently passed from one side to the otlier in s 
right line, so as to form several rows, till the plate 
be every where moderately covered. After this, 
with a sort of ball made of cotton, tied up in tafi^ety, 
beat every part of the plate gently, while tbe var- 
nish is yet in a fluid state; and to unite it still more, 
and give it a finer grain, it is proper **■■ take the 

-* z 



76 

plate from the fire immediately, and continue strik- 
mg it on every part with the ball, till it attain a 
harder consistence xvi coolinp;. This must not, 
nevertheless, be prolonged till the varnish be too 
cold, for tlien the ball would be ant to make it rise 
from the plate. 

Le Bosss's hard varnish. 

Take of Greek or Burgundy pitch and resin, or 
eolophony of Tyre, or common resin, each two 
ounces. Melt them together upon a moderate fire, 
in a new earthen pot, well glazed; and, these in- 
gredients being thoroughly mixt, put to them eight 
ounces of good nut, or linseed oil, and incorporate 
the whole well together, over the fi)'e, for a full 
half hour. Continue afterwards to boil the mix- 
ture till such time as, having taken a little of it 
out, and suffered it to cool, it ropes on touching it 
with the finger, like a very tliick syrup. Take the 
pot then from the fire, and the varnish being a lit- 
tle cooled, pass it through a new linen cloth, into 
some vessel that will not soak it up, and can be well 
corked. Varnish made in this manner, may be 
kept for twenty years, and will, indeed be the bet- 
ter for age. 

To blacken the varnish. 

When the plate is uniformly and thinly covered 
with the varnish, it must be blackened by a piece 
of flambeau, or large wax candle which affords a 
copious smoke: sometimes 2, or even 4 such can- 
dles are used together, for the sake of dispatch, 
that the varnish may not grow cold during the ope- 
ration. The plate must be heated again, that it 
may be in a melted state when the operation of 
blackening is performed; but threat cai-e must be 
taken not to burn it, which may be easily perceiv- 
ed by the varnish smoking and running into little 
lumps, as if it had contracted some foulness. 

It is proper likewise to be very cautious in keep- 
ing the flambeau or candle at a due distance from 
the plate, for fear the wick should touch the var- 
nish, which would both sully and mark it. If it 
appear that the black has not penetrated the var- 
nish, the plate must be again placed, for a short 
time, over the ohaf.ng-dish; and it will be found, 
that in proportion as the plate grows hot, the var- 
nish will melt and incorporate with, tlie black, 
w.iich lay above it, in such a manner that the whole 
will be equally pervaded by it. 

Above all things, the greatest catition should be 
used ;n this opt i-ation to keep a moderate fire all 
the time, and to move the plate frequently, and 
change the place of all the parts of it, that tlie var- 
nish may be alike melted every where, and be 
kept from burning. Care must be taken, that du- 
ring this time, and even till the varnish be entirely 
cold, no filth, sparks, nor dust, fly on it, for they 
would then stick fast and spoil the work. 

To apply hard varnish to copperplates. 

The plate being perfectly cleansed and freed 
from greasiness, must be put on a chafing-dish, 
containing a small fire; and when it is become mo- 
derately hot, it must be taken off again, in order 
to receive the varnish, which must be thus laid on: 
• Take a proper quantity of the varnish, and put- 
ting it on the end of the finger with a stick or other 
small instrument, touch the plate with it gently, 
in order that it may be spread in small spots of the 
same size, at as equal distances as possible over 
ever)^ part; and if the plate cool too much before 
the whole be finished, heat it again as at first, care- 
fully preserving it, nevertheless, from any dust or 
foulness that may be liable to fall upon it. When 
this is done, spread the varnish with a little ball, 
or puff, made of the cotton and tafFety, as is done 
sn the case of the soft varnish. 
To take soft varnish off the plates ^vhen the corro- 
sion isfinislied. 

When the soft varnish is to be taken off, after 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



finishing the corrosion, the plate must firs be 
warmed at the fire, and the border of wax rou I ii 
removed. Then it must be made hotter till the 
mixture or composition, as well as the vainnr.h 
melt, when it must be well vijicd with y 'aeati 
linen cloth, afterwards rubbed heartily in rrei_fl| 
part with oil of olives: which being pcrfornnrad, it 
is ready to be re-touched by the graver, if tliete h" 
occasion. 

To remove the hard varnish. 
Choose a very soft coal of fallow wood, anrt, 
without burning it, strip off the bark, and then 
dipping it in water, of which some likewise should 
be poured on the plate, rub the varnish with it, 
but continually the same way as in polishing the 
copper, which will take off the varnish. Be par- 
ticularly careful, nevertheless, to prevent any gra- 
vel fivm falling on the plate; as also to observe 
that there are no hard grains in the coal, for eirlier 
of these would make scratches on the plate, whicli 
would be very difficult to efface, especially upori 
the tender parts. 

To cleanse copperplates after the remiyval of thf. 
varnish. 
When the varnish is all taken off from the plate, 
the copper remains of a disagreeable colour, from 
the effect the fire and water have had upon it; but 
in order to restore it to its usual appearance, use 
this method; — 'Take some of the refiners' aqua 
fortis, and if it be pure, put two-thirds, or more, 
of water to it. Then take a linen rag dipped in 
the aqua fortis tlius lowered with water, and rub 
with it all the engraved parts of the copper, by 
which it will be found to become bright and clean, 
and of the common colour of copper. 

Wipe the plate immediately after this with an- 
other linen rag that is dry and clean, till not the 
least of tlie aquafortis and water remain on it, and 
pour upon it afterwards a little olive oil, and with 
a small piece of old hat, or other such thing, rub 
the oil strongly over every part of it. After this 
clean the plate with a linen cloth, being cautious 
not to employ the rag for that puqiose which had 
been used to wipe off the refiners' aqua fortis. 
To prepare box-xoood for engraving. 
The wood being chosen, and cut into a proper 
form and size, it must be planed as even and truly 
as possible, and will be then ready to receive the 
drawing or chalking, of the design to be en- 
graved. 

Now take white lead and temper it with watei 
by grinding;, then spread it first thinly on the sur- 
face by a brush pencil, and afterwards rub it well 
'with a fine linen rag, while yet wet, and, when it 
is dry, brush off any loose or powderj' part by a 
soft pencil. 

If the design be sketched on the wood by draw- 
ing, it may be done by Indian or common ink (but 
the first is far preferable), either by a pen or pen- 
cil, or by a black-lead pencil, though that scarcely 
marks strong enough for finer work. 

To free copperplates from grease. 
When the plates are designed for etching, being 
thus finished with the burnisher, they should be 
well washed with clean water, and then dried by 
the fire. After wnich they should be wiped dry 
with a linen cloth; and to be certain that there 
may be no kind of grease upon them they should 
be rubbed over with the crumb of very stale bread. 
Scraping very soft chalk over it, and rubbing the 
plate well, are very sure means of preventing either 
any grease, bread, or other foulness whatever re- 
maining. 

To secure copperplates from corrosion. 

Take equal p<»rts of wax and turpentine, and 

double the quantity of olive oil, with the same 

quantity of hog's lard. Melt the whole over the 

fire in an eaithen vessel, taking care to mix the 



ENGRAVING. 



79 



ingredients well, and leave them to boil some 
time, till they be well incorporated. 

The advantage of this mixture is, that it may at 
any time, being warmed, be put with the finger on 
the places desired to be covered; by which means 
the farther operation of the aqua fortis on such 
places, may be instantly prevented without any 
other trouble or preparation, or without interru])t- 
ing or delaying the principal operation. 

Yliis mixture may be employed equally well 
witii the hard as with the soft varnish; the inten- 
tion of using such a composition is, if any scratches 
or false strokes happen in the etching; they are to 
be stopped out with a hair pencil dipped in this 
composition mixed with lamp-black, previously 
to laying on the aqua fortis, or as it is called, bit- 
ing in. * 

To choo-ie copper for engraving. 

Plates intended for engraving ought to be of the 
best copper, which should be very malleable, firm, 
and with some degree of hardness, free from veins, 
or specks, or dissimilar parts. The redness of 
copper is a presumptive mark of its being good, 
but not an infallible one; for though it is, in gene- 
ral, a proof of the purity of the copper, yet it does 
not evince that the quantities may not be injured 
by too frequent infusion. 

Copper-plates may be had ready prepared in 
most large towns; but when these cannot be had, 
procure a pretty thick sheet of copper, rather 
larger than the drawing, and let the brazier plan- 
ish it well; then take a piece of pumice-stone, and 
with water rub it all one way, till it becomes toler- 
ably smooth and level; a piece of charcoal is next 
used with water for polishing it still farther, and 
removing the deep scratches made by the pumice- 
stone, and it is then finished with a piece of char- 
coal of a finer grain, with a little oil. 
To engrave in mezzo tinto. 

This art is recommended for the amazing ease 
with which it is executed, especially by those who 
have any notion of drawing. 

Mezzotinto prints are those which have no 
hatching or strokes of the graver, bat whose lights 
and shades are blended togetlier, and appear like 
a drawing of Indian ink. 

The tools used in this art, after procuring a 
well-polished copperplate, are — oil-stone, ground- 
mg-tools, scrapers, burnishers, and needles. 
To lay the ground. 

Mark oft' upon the bottom of the plate the dis- 
tance intended for the writing, coat of arras, kc. 
then lay the plate, with a piece of swan-skin flan- 
Tiel under it, upon the table, bold the grounding- 
tool in the hand perpendicularly; lean upon it mo- 
derately hard, continually rooking the hand in a 
right line from end to end, till the plate is wholly 
covered in one direction: next cross the strokes 
from side to side, afterwards from cornet to cor- 
ner, working the tool each time all over the plate, 
in every direction, almost like tho points of a com- 
pass; taking all possible care not to let the tool cut 
{in one direction) twice in a place. -,' This done, 
the plate will be full, or all rough alike, and 
would, if it were printed, appear completely 
black. 

Having laid the ground, take the scrapings of 
black chalk, and with a piece of rag, rub tliem 
over the plate; or, with two or three candles, 
smoke it, as before directed for etching. 

Now take the print or drawing, and having rub- 
bed the back with red chalk-dust, mixed with 
white lake, proceed to trace it on the plate. 
'J'o -whet the grounding-tool. 

Ifa tooth of the tool should break, it may be 
perceived jn the working by a streak or gap, 
which will appear in the ground in a sti-aight line; 



in which case the tool must be whetted on the 
back, holding it sloping, and in a circular manner, 
like the bottom of the tool. 

To scrr'^e the picture. 

Take a blunt needle, and mark the outlines 
only; then with a scraper, scrape off tlie lights in 
every part of the plate, sis clean and as smooth as 
possible, in proportion to the strength of the lights 
in the picture, taking cpre not to hurt the outlines: 
and in order to see better, with the thumb and 
fore-finger of the left hand, hold a piece of trans- 
parent paper, sloping, just over the rigiit hand, 
and the artist will soon be a judge of llie dilterent 
tints of the work he is doing; soi-aping off more or 
less of the ground, as the different strengths of 
lights and tints require. 

I'he use of the burnisher is to soften and rub 
down the extreme light parts after the scrai)er is 
done with: such as the tip of tiie nose, forehead, 
linen, &c. which might otherwise, when proved, 
appear rather misty than clear. 

Another method. — Etch the outlines of the ori- 
ginal, as also of the folds in (h'apeiy, marking the 
breadth of the shadows by dots, which having bit 
of a proper colour with aqua fortis, take off the 
ground used in etching, and, having laid the mez- 
zotintogroimd, proceed to scrape the plate as aoove. 

Four or five days before the plates are ready foi 
proving, notice must be given to the rolling press 
printer to wet som'; Frencli paper, or a thick mel- 
low paper in imitat)cn of it, as tliat time is neces- 
sary for it to lie in wet. When the proof is dry, 
touch it with wliite chalk where it should be light- 
er, and with black chalk where it should be dark- 
er; and when the print is re-touched, proceed a? 
before for the lights, and for the shades use a small 
gvounding-too!, as much as is necessary to bring 
it to the proper colour; and when this is done, 
prove it again, and so ])roceed to prove and touch 
till it is entirel)' finished. When the plate tar- 
nishes, a little vinegar and salt, kept in a phial, 
will take it off, wiping it dry with a clean rag. 

Avoid as much as possible over-scraping any 
part before the first proving, as, by this caution, 
the work will appear the more elegant. 
To engrave in aquatinta. 

This very much resembles drawing in Indian 
ink. Tlus process consists in corroding the cop- 
per with aqua-fortis, in such a manner, that an im- 
pression from it has the appearance of a tint laid 
on the paper. This is effected by covering the 
copper with a substance which takes a granulated 
form, so as to prevent the aqua-fortis from acting 
where the particles adhere, and by this means 
cause it to corrode the copper partially, and in in- 
terstices only. When these particles are extreme- 
ly minute, and near to each other, the impression 
from the Y>late appears to the naked eye like a 
wash of Indian ink. But when tiiey are larger, 
the granulation is more distinct; and as this may 
be varied at pleasure, it is capable of being adapt- 
ed to a variety of purposes and subjects. 

The matter generally used for this purpose, is 
composed of equal parts of asphaltum and transpa- 
rent resin, reduced to powder and sifted on the 
plate, (which has been previously greased, ) through 
a fine sieve. Tlie ■ plate is then heated so as to 
make the powder adhere, and tne artist scrapes it 
away when a strong shade is wanted, and covers 
those parts with varnish where he wishes a very 
strong light to appear. The aqua-fortis, properly 
diluted with water, is then put on within a fence 
of wax, as in common etching for engraving, and 
by repeated applications, covenng the light parts 
still with varnish, the effect is produced. 
To engrave on -wood. 

The block is cocimonly made of pear-ti-ee or 



80 



UNI^^RSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



box, and differs in thickness according to its size, j, 
The surflice for the engraving is on the transverse 
section of the wood; the subject is drawn upon it 
with a pen and Indian ink, with all the finishing 
that it is required to have in the impression. The 
spaces between the lines are cut away with knives, 
chisels, and gouges, leaving the lines that have 
been drawn with the ink. 

The taking impressions from blocks of wood 
differs from that of copperplate in this, that in the 
latter they are delivered from the incision, while 
in the wooden blocks they are delivered from the 
raiseu part. 

CJdar' oscuro. 

This method of engraving is performed with 
three blocks. The outline is cut in one, the deep 
shadows in a second, and the third gives a tint 
over the whole, except where the lights are cut 
away. These are substituted in their tur;i, each 
print receiving an impression from each block. 
This mode of engi'aving was designed to represent 
the drawings of the old masters. 

To etch upon glass. 

Procure several thick clear pieces of crown 
glass, and immerse them in melted wax, so that 
each may receive a complete coating. When pei'- 
fectly cold, diaw on them, with a fine steel point, 
{lowers, trees, houses, portraits, &c. Whatever 
pgrts of the drawing are intended to be corroded 
with the acid, should be perfectly free from the 
least particle of wax. When all" these drawings 
are finished, the pieces of glass must be immersed 
one by one in a square leaden box or receiver, 
where they are to be submitted to the action of 
fluoric acid, or fluoric acid gas. 

It will be necessary to have some water in the 
receiver for the absorption of the superabundant 
gas; and the receiver should have a short leaden 
pipe attached to it for the recepiion of the beak of 
the retort. This should be well luted with wax. 
At the top of the receiver there is a sliding door 
for the admission of the plates: this is to be well 
luted whilst the gas is acting. When the glasses 
are sufficiently corroiled, they are to be taken out; 
and the wax is to be removed by first dipping them 
in warm, and then in hot water. Various colours 
may be applied to the corroded parts of the glass, 
whereby a very fine painting inay be executed. In 
the same manner, sentences and initials of names 
may be etched on wine-glasses, tumblers, &c. 

Another meihod. — Glass may also be etclied, by 
immersing it in liquid fluoric acid, after having 
been coated with wax and drawn on, as in the last 
method. There is this difference, ho^vever, in the 
use of the liquid and the gas, that the former ren- 
ders the etching transparent, whilst tliat produced 
by the gas is quite opaque. 

In this method the potass of the glass is set free, 
v/hilst the silex or sand is acted on; consequently 
no vessel of glass can ever be employed with safety 
to contain this acid in a liquid state, as it would 
soon be con-oded into holes: it is, therefore, gene- 
rally preserved in leaden bottles, on which it has 
10 power to act. 

Varnish coating preferable. 

In coating the glass with wax as above directed, 
it is almost impossible to lay it on sufficiently thin. 
The consequence of this is, that the lines traced 
by the point will be found irregular, ragged, and 
destitute of that delicacy which is required. The 
strong varnish used by engravers answers much 
better, provided it be very carefully applied. Be- 
fore doing so, the glass must be thoroughly clean- 
ed and heated, so that it can hardly be held. The 
varnish is then to be applied lightly over, and 
made smooth by dabbing it witli small balls of silk, 
stuffed with cottoD When dry and even, the 



lines may be traced on it, the plate lying on a pane 
of glass fixed in a table, slightly inclined so that 
the light may be thrown under it. 
Simple nethod of etching glass, as applied to ther- 
mometers. 

Coat the glass to be graduated, &c. with yellow 
wax, and trace with a steel point whatever is in- 
tended to be etched. Now dip the glass in sul- 
phuric acid, and shake over it some finely pulver- 
ized fluate of lime (fluor spar). This salt will be 
decomposed by the affinity of lime for sulphuric 
acid. Accordingly the fluoric acid will be set free 
to attack the silica of the glass. Con'osion ot 
those parts which are uncovered by the wax, will 
be the consequence. 

To engi'ave on precious stones. 

The first thilig to be done in this branch of en- 
graving, is to cement two rough diamonds to the 
ends of two sticks large enough to hold them stea- 
dy in the hand, and to rub or grind them against 
each other, till they be brought to the form desir- 
ed. The dust or powder that is rubbed off, serves 
afterwards to polish them, which is performed by 
a kind of mill that turns a wheel of soft iron. The 
diamond is fixed in a brass dish; and, thus applied 
to the wheel, is covered with diamond dust, mix- 
ed up with oil of olives; and when the diamond is 
to be cut facet-wise, first one face, and then an- 
other is applied to the wheel. Rubies, sapphires, 
and topazes, are cut and formed the same way on 
a copper wheel, and polished with tnpoli diluted 
in water. Agates, araethysts, emeralds, hyacinths, 
granites, rubies, and others of the softer stones, 
are cut on a leatleti wheel moistened with emery 
and water, and polished with tripoli on a pewter 
wheel. Lapis-lazuli, opal, &c. are polished on a 
wooden wheel. 

To fashion and engrave vases of agate, ciystal, 
lapis-lazuli, or the like, a kind of lathe is made 
use of, similar to that used by pewterers, to hold 
the vessels, which are to be wrought with jiroper 
tools. The engraver's lathe generally holds the 
tools, which are turned by a wheel; and the vessel 
cut and engraved, either in relievo or otherwise; 
the tools being moistened from time to time with 
diamond dust and oil, or at least emery and water. 
To engrave figures or devices on any of these 
stones, when polished, such as medals, seals, &c. 
a little iron wheel is used, the ends of whose axis 
are received within two pieces of iron, placed up- 
right, as in the turner's lathe; and to be brought 
closer, or set further apart, at pleasure; at one end 
of the axis are fixed the proper tools, being kept 
tight by a screw. Lastly, the wheel is turned by 
the foot, and tlie stone applied by the hand to the tool, 
then shifted and conducted as occasion requires. 

I'he tools are generally of iron, and sometimes 
of brass; their form is various. Some have small 
round iieads, like buttons, others like ferrels, 
to take tne pieces out, and others flat, &c. When 
the stone has been engraved, it is polished on 
wheels of hair-brushes and tripoli. 

To engrave upon steel. 

Steel blocks, or plates of sufficient size to re- 
ceive the intended engraving, are softened, or de- 
carbonated upon their substances, and thereby ren- 
dered a better material for receiving all kinds ol 
work, than even copper itself. After the intended 
work has been executed upon the block, it is hard- 
ened with great care by a new process, which pre- 
vents injury to the most delicate work. A cylin- 
der of steel, previously softened, is then placed in 
the transferring press, and repeatedly passed over 
the engraved blocks, by which the engraving is 
transferred, in relief, to the periphery of the cy- 
linder, the press having a vibrating motion, equal- 
ling that of the cylinder upon its axis, by which 



ENGRAVING. 



8t 



new surfaces are presented eqnallinj^ the extent of 
fingrsviiii!;. This cylindei* is then hardened, anil 
IS ready tor indenting either copper or steel plates, 
which is done by placing- it in ihe same press be- 
fore descril)ed, and repeatedly pressinp; it over the 
copper or steel plates, liicreby producing another 
engraving identically like tliat upon the original 
block. I'his may be repeated upon any required 
number of plates, as the original engraving will 
remain to produce other cylinders, if ever requir- 
ed, and when transferred to steel plates, and hard- 
ened, they will also serve as additional matrices 
(i,r the production of new cylinders. 



Etc/dug Uq^tor for pUiies of soft steel. 

Dissolve a quarter of an ounce of corrosive subli. 
mate and the same quantity of alum, both powder- 
ed, in half a pint of hot water. 

IJirections fur use. 

When cold, pour it on to your plate, and keep 
stirring it with a camels' hair brush; wash the 
jdate perfectly after each biting, and tlirow away 
the portion of li(iuid you have employed; delicate 
tints are obtained in about three minutes, stronger 
ones in proportion. 



DlTESIHa, XM ^3^1^ STS ITi^RlETISlS. 



To prepare mordants. 

Dyeing is a chemical process, and consists in 
combining a certain colouring matter with fibres 
of cloth. The facility with which cloth imbibes a 
dye, depends upon two circumstances; the union 
of the cloth and 'ho dye-stuff, and the union of the 
dye-stuff, or dyeing material, and the fluid in v.'hich 
it is dissolved. Wool unites with almost all co- 
louring matters, silk in the next degree, cotton 
considerably less, and linen the least of all. To 
dye cotton or linen, the dye-stuff, or colouring ma- 
terial, should, in many cases, be dissolved in a 
substance for which it has a weaker connexion than 
with the solvent employed in the dyeing of wool 
or silk. Thus we may usa the colour called oxide 
of iron, dissolved in sidphuric acid, to dye wool; 
but to dye cotton and linen, it is necessary to dis- 
solve it in acetous acid. Were it possible to pro- 
cure a sufficient number of colouring substances, 
having a strong affinity for cloths, to answer all the 
purposes of dyeing, that art would be exceedingly 
simple and easy. But this isbyno means the case. 
ThisdiKiculty has, however, been obviated byavery 
ingenious contrivance. Some other substance is 
employed which strongly unites with the cloth and 
the colouring matter. This substance, therefore, 
is previously combined with the cloth, whtch is 
then dipped into a solution containing the colour. 
The colour then combines with the intermediate 
substance, which, being firmly combined with the 
cloth, secures the ];>erraanenee of ihe dye. Sub- 
stances employed for thlsptn-pose are denominated 
mordants. 

To choose and apply them. 

The most important part of dyeing is, therefore, 
the choice and application of mordants; as upon 
them, the permanency of almost every dye depends. 
Mordants must be previously dissolved in some li- 
quid, which has a weaser imion with the mordants 
than the cloth has; and the cloth mrst then be 
steeped in this solution, so as to saturate itself with 
the mordant. The most important, and most gene- 
rally used mordant is alumine. It is used either in 
a state of common alum, in A»hich it is combined 
with sulphuric acid, or in that state called acetite 
ef alumine. 

Use of alum as a mordant. 

Alum, to make a mordant, is dissolved in water, 
and very frequently, a quantity of tartrate of potass 
is dissolved with it. Into this solution wooi.LE>f 
cloth is put, and kept in it till it has absorbed as 
much alumine as is necessary. It is then taken 
out, and for the most part washed and dried. It is 



now a good deal heavier than it was before, owing 
to the alum which has combined with it. 
Acetite of alumine 

Is prepared as a mordant by pouring acetite of 
lead into a solution of alum. This mordant is em- 
ployed for coTTOx and linejt. It answers for these 
nuich better than alum; the stuff is more easily sa- 
turated with alumine, and takes, in consequence 
a richer and more permanent colour. 
White oxide of tin. 

This mordant has enabled the moderns greatly 
to surpass many of the ancients in the fineness of 
their colours; and even to equal the famous Tyrian 
purple; and by means of it scarlet, the brightest of 
all colours, is produced. It is the white oxide of 
tin, alone, which is the real mordant. 

Tin is used as a mordant in three states: dissolv- 
ed in nitro-rauriatic acid, in acetous acid, and in a 
mixture of sulphuric and muriatic acids; but nitro- 
muriate of tin is the common mordant empbyed by 
dyen: They prepare it by dissolving tin in dilut- 
ed nitric acid, to which a certain pi-oportion of 
common salt, or sal ammoniac, is added. 

When die nitro-muviate of tin is to be used as a 
mordant, it is dissolved in a large quantity of water, 
and the cloth is dipped in the solution, and allowed 
to remain till sufficiently saturated. It is then taken 
out, washed and dried. Ty,'tai is usually dissolv- 
ed in the water along with the nitro-rauriate. 
Jied oxide of iron. 

This is also used as a n^ordant in dyeing; it has 
a very strong affinity for all kinds of cloth, of which 
the permanency of red iron-spots, or iron-moulds, 
on linen and cotton is a sufficient proof As a mor- 
dant it is used in two states: in that of sulphate of 
iron, or copperas, and that of acetite of iron. The 
first, or copperas, is commonly used for -wool. The 
copperas is dissolved in water, and the cloth dipp- 
ed into it. It may be used also for cotton, but in 
most cases acetite of iron is preferred, irhich is 
prepared by dissolving iron, or its oxide, in vin^.'- 
gar, sour beer, or pyroligneous acid, and the longer 
it is kept the better. 

Tan, &c. 

Tan is very frequently employed as a mordant. 
An infusion of nut-galls, or of sumach, or of any 
other substance containing tan, is made in water, 
and the cloth is dipped in this infusion, and allowed 
to remain till it has absorbed a sufficient quantity. 
Tan is often employed also, along with other mor- 
dants, to produce a compound mordant. Oil is also 
used for tlie same purpose, in dyeing cotton and 
linen. The mordants with which tan is "nost fre-- 



82 



UNIVERSAL RKCEIPT BOOK. 



quent'.y combined, are alumine, and oxide of 
iron. 

Besides these mordants, there are several other 
substances frequently used as auxiliaries, either to 
facilitate the combination of the mordant with the 
clotli or to alter the shade of colour: the chief of 
these are, tartar, acetate of lead, common salt, sal 
ammoniac, sulphate of copper, &e. 

Mordants not only render the dye permanent, 
but have also considerable influence on the coloar 
produced. The same colouring matter produces 
very different dyes, according as the mordant is 
changed. Suppose, for instance, that the colouring 
matter is cochineal; if we use the aluminous mor- 
dant, the cloth will acquire a crimson colour; hut 
the oxide of iron produces with it, a black. 

In dyeing, then, it is not only necessaiy to pro- 
cure a mordant wliich has a sufficiently strong affi- 
nity for the colouring matter and the cloth, and a 
colouring matter which possesses the wished-for 
colour in perfection; but we must procure a mor- 
dant and a colouring matter of such a nature, that 
when combined together, they shall possess the 
wished-for colour in perfection; and even a great 
variety of colours may be produced with a single 
dye-stuff, provided we change the mordant s:iffi- 
ciently. 

To determine the effects of various salts or mor- 
dants on colovrs. 
The dye of madder. 

For a madder red on woollens, the best quantity 
of madder is one half of the weight of the woollens 
that are to be dyed; the best ])roportion of salts to 
be used is five parts of alum and one of red tai'tar 
for sixteen parts of the stuff. 

A variation in the proportions of the salts, wholly 
alters the colour that the madder naturally gives. 
If the alum is lessened, and the tartar increased, the 
dye proves a red cinnamon. If the alum be entirely 
omitted, the red wholly disappears, and a durable 
tawny cinnamon is produced. 

If woollens are boiled in weak pearl-ash and wa- 
ter, the greater part of the colour is destroyed. A 
solution of soap discharges part of the colour, an-d 
leaves the remaining more beautiful. 

Volatile alkalies heighten the red colour of the 
maddei", but they make tlie dye fugitive. 
The dye of logvjood. 

Volatile alkaline salts or acids incline this to 
purple; the vegetable and nitrous acids render it 
pale; the vitriolic and marine acids deepen it. 
Lime ivater. 

In dyeing browns or blacks, especially browns, 
lime water is found to be a good corrective, as also 
an alterative, when the goods are not come to the 
shade required; but practice alone can show its 
utility; it answers for either woollens, silks, or cot- 
tons. 

To render colours holding. 

Browns and blues, or shades from them, require 
no pi-eparation; but reds and yellowii, either of silk_ 
cotton, or woollen, require a preparation to make 
them receive the dye, and hold it fast when it has 
received it. Alum and tartar, boiled together, 
when cold, form a mastic, within the pores of the 
substance, that serves to I'etain the dye, and reflect 
the colour in a manner transparently. 

Almost all browns are deemed fast and holding 
colours, without any preparation: the dyeing ma- 
terials containing in themselves a sufficient degree 
of astringent quality to retain their own colours. 
Many reds are also equally holding, but none more 
so than those made with madder on woollens pre- 
pared with alum and tartar. 

A very fast red is also made with Brazil wood, 
oy boiling the woollen in alum and tartar, and suf- 
fering the cloth to remain several dajs in a bag 



kept moist by the preparation liquor. TTie cause 
of the solidity of the colour from Brazil wood 
dyed after this method, arises from the alum and 
tartar masticating itself within the pores of the 
wool in quite a solid state. 

There is not a drug used in the whole art of 
dyeing, but may be made a permanent dye. by 
finding out a salt, or solution of some metal, that, 
when once dissolved by acids, or by boiling water 
Avill neither be affected by the air, nor be dissolved 
by moisture. Such are alum and tartar, the solu- 
tion of tin, &c. But these salts and solutions do 
not answer with all ingredients that are used >i 
dyeing. 

To purchase dyeing materials. 

The names of the principal dyeing materials are 
alum, argol, or tartar, green copperas, verdigris, 
blue vitriol, roche alum, American or quercitron, 
and oak bark, fenugreek, logwood, old and young 
fustic, Brazil wood, braziletto, camwood, barwood, 
and other red Moods, peach wood, sumach, galls, 
weld, madder of 3 or 4 sorts, saffiower, savory 
green wood, annatto, turmeric, archil, cudbear, 
cochineal, lac cake, lac dye, and indigo. The 
whole may ue purchased of druggists and colour- 
men. 
2o dye n-ool and -^vooUen cloths of a blue colour. 

Dissolve one part of indigo in four parts of con- 
centrated sulphuric acid; to the solution, add one 
part of dr}- carbonate of potass, and then dilute it 
with eight times its weight of water. The cloth 
must be boiled for an hour in a solution, contain- 
ing 5 parts of alum, and 3 of tartar, for every 32 
])arts of cloth. It is then to be thrown into a Tvater- 
bath previously prepared, containing a greater or 
smaller proportion of diluted sulphate of indigo, 
according to the shade which the cloth is intended 
to receive. In this bath it must be boiled till it has 
acquired the wished-for colour. 

The only colouring matters employed in dyeing 
blue, are woad and indigo. 

Indigo has a very strong affinity for wool, silk, 
cotton, and linen. Every kind of cloth, therefore, 
may be dyed with it, without liie assistance of any 
mordant whatever. The colour thus induced is 
very jiermanent. But indigo can only be applied 
to clotii in a state of solution, and the only solvent 
known is sulphuric acid. The sulphate of indigo 
is often used to dye wool and silk blue, and is 
known by the name of Saxon blue. 

It is not the only solution of that pigment em- 
ployed in dyeing. By far the most common me- 
thod is, to deprive indigo of its blue colour, and 
reduce it to green, and then to dissolve it in water 
by means of alkalies. Two difi'erent methods are 
employed fortius purpose. The first is, to mix 
with indigo a solution of green oxide of iron, and 
difterent metallic sulphurets. If, therefore, indigo, 
lime, and green sulphate of iron, are mixed toge- 
ther in water, the indigo gradually loses its blue 
colour, becomes green, and is dissolved. The se- 
cond method is, to mix the indigo, in water, with 
certain vegetable substances which readily undergo 
fermentation; the inuigo is dissolved by means of 
qinck lime or alkali, which is added to the solution. 

The first of these methods is usually followed m 
dyeing cotton and linen; t\^e second, in dyeing wooi 
and silk. 

In the dyeing of wool, woad and bran are com- 
monly employed as vegetable ferments, and lime 
asthe solveutof the green base of the indigo. Woad 
itself contains a colouring matter precisely similar 
to indigo; and by following the common process,, 
indigo may be extracted Irom it. In the usual- 
state of woad, when purchased by the dyer, the in- 
digo, which it contains, is probably not far fron» 
the state of g;reen pollen. Its quantity in -woad if 



DYEING. 



gi 



but small, and it is mixed with a great proportion 
of olher vegetable matter. , 

When the cloth is first taken out of the vat, it is 
of a green colour; but it soon becomes blue. It 
oun-ht to be carefully washed, to carry off the un- 
conibined particles. This solution of indigo is lia- 
ble to two inconveniences: first, it is apt some- 
times to run too fast into the putrid fermentation; 
this may be known by the putrid vapours which it 
exliales, and by the disappearing of the green co- 
lour. In this state it would soon destroy the in- 
digo altogether. The inconvenience is remedied 
by adding' more lime, which has the propert)' of 
moderating the puli-escent tendency. Secondly, 
sometimes the fermentation goes on too languidly. 
This defect is remedied by adding more bran, or 
woad, in order to diminish the proportion of thick 
lime. 

To make chemic blue and green. 

Cheraic for light blues and greens, on silk, cot- 
ton, or woollen, and for cleaning and whitening 
cottons, is made by the following process: — 

Take 1 lb. of the best oil of vitriol, which pour 
upon I ounce of the best Spanish flora indigo, well 
pounded and sifted; add to this, after it has been 
well stirred, a small lump of common pearl-ash as 
big as a pea, or from that to the size of 2 peas; this 
will immediately raise. a great fermentation, and 
cause the inJigo to dissolve in minuter and finer 
particles than otherwise. As soon as this fermen- 
tation ceases, put it u.m a bottle tightly corked, 
and it may be used the next day. Obierve, if more 
than the quantity prescribed of pearl ash should be 
used, it will deaden and sully the colour. 

Chemic for green, as above for blue, is made by 
only adding one-fourth more of the oil of vitriol. 

If the chemic is to be used for woollen. East In- 
dia indiigo will answer the purpose even better than 
Spanish indigo, and at one quarter of the price; but 
•the oil of vitriol is good for both. 

To make a solution of tin in aqua regia. 

Mix together 8 ounces of filtered river water, 
ami 8 ounces of double aqua fortis; add gradually 
half an ounce of sal ammoniac dissolved piece by 
piece, and 2 di'achms of salt-petre. Then take I 
ounce of refined block tin: put it into an iron pan, 
and set it over the fire; when melted, hold it 4 or 
5 feet over the vessel, and drop it into water, so as 
to let it fall in pieces. 

Next put a small piece of this granulated tin into 
the above aqua-regia, and when the last piece dis- 
appears, add more gradually till the whole is mix- 
ed; mind and keep it firmly corked. When finished 
ii will produce a most excellent yellow, though 
should it fail in thai, respect, it will not be the 
worse for use; keep it cool, as heat will injure and 
even spoil it. 

To make muriate of tin. 

Fake 8 ounces of muriatic acid, and dissolve in 
It, by slow degrees, half an ounce of granulated 
tin; when this is done pour off the clear liquid into 
a bottle and weaken it, if required, with pure fil- 
tered river water. 

To detenmiie the effect of various -waters on differ- 
ent colours. 

Snow water contains a little muriate of lime, and 
some slight traces of nitrate of lime; rain water has 
the same salts in a larger quantity, and also carbo- 
nic acid; spring water most frequently contains 
carbonate of lime, muriate of lime, muriate of soda, 
or carbonate of soda. River water has the same sub- 
stances, but in less aoundance. Well water contains 
sulphate of lime or nitrate of pot-ash besides the 
tbove-named salts. Should the water contain a salt, 
vr a mineral acid, in the first instance, an acid will 
oe requisite to neutralize it, and in the second, an 



alkali. Thus waters of any quality may be saturj^t- 
ed by their opposites, and rendered neutral. 
To discharge colours. 
The dyers generally put all coloured silks which 
are to be discharged, into a coijper in which half a 
pound or a pound of white soap has been dissolved. 
Tliey are then boiled oft", and when the cop;>ei 
begins to be too full of colour, the silks ai'c taken 
out and rinsed in warm water. In the interim a 
fresli solution of soap is to be added to the copper, 
and then proceed as before till all the colour is dis- 
charged. For tliose colours that are wanted to bt 
eftectually discharged, such as greys, cinnamonS; 
Sec. when soap does not do, tartar must be used 
For slate colours, greenish drabs, olive drabs, kc. 
oil of vitriol in warm water must be used; if othei 
colours, roche alum must be boiled in the copper, 
then cooled down and tiie silks entered and boiled 
oft', recollecting to rii^se them before they ai-e agaiii 
dyed. A small quantity of muriatic acid, diluted 
in warm water, must be used to discharge some 
fast colours; the goods must be aiterwards well 
rinsed in warm and cold water to prevent any injury 
to the stalk. 

7'o discharge cinnamons, greys, &c. when dyea 
too fidl. 

7'ake some tartar, pounded in a mortar, sift it 
into a bucket, then pour over it some boiling wa- 
ter. The silks, Sic. may then be run througli the 
clearest of this liquor, which will discharge the co- 
lour; but if the dye does not take on again evenly, 
more tartar ma)' be added, and the goods run 
through as before. 
To ve~dye, or change the colours of garments, &c. 

The change of colour depends upon tiae ingredi- 
en s with which the garments have been dyed. 
Sometimes when these liave been well cleaned, 
more dyeing stuff must be added, which will aft'oiii 
the colour intended; and sometimes the coloui- aJ- 
readj' on the clotli must be discharged and the ar- 
ticle re-dyed. 

Evei-y colour in nature will dye black, whether 
blue, yellow, red or brown, and black will always 
dye black again. All colours will take the same 
colour again which xhey already possess; and blues 
can be made green or black; green may be made 
brown, and brown green, and every colour on re- 
dyeing will take a darker tint than at first. 

Yellows, browns, and blues, are not easily dis- 
charged; maroons, reds of some kinds, olives, &.c. 
may be discharged. 

For maroons, a small quantity of roche alum 
may be boiled in a copper, and when it is dissolv- 
ed, put in the goods, keep them boiling, and pro- 
bably, in a few minutes, enoAgh of it will be dis- 
charged to take the colour intended. 

01iv«s, greys, &c. are discharged by putting in 
two or three table spoonsful, more or less, of oil 
of vitriol: then put in the garment, &c. and boil, 
and it will become white. If chemic green, either 
alum, pearl-ash, or soap, will discharge it oft' to 
the yellow; this yellow may mostly be boiled oft' 
with soap, if it has received a preparation for tak- 
ing the chemic blue. Muriatic acid used at a hand 
heat will discharge most colours. A black may 
be dyed maroon, claret, green, or a dark brown; 
and it often happens that black is dyed claret, 
green, or dark brown; but green is the principal 
colour into which black is changed. 
To alum silks. 

Silk should be alumed cold, for when it is alum- 
ed hot, it is deprived of a great part of its lustre. 
I'lie alum liquor should always be strong for sixks, 
as thk,y take the dje more readil}- afterwards. 
To dye silk blue. 

Silk is dyed light blue by a ferment of six parts 



84 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



of bran, six of Indigoj six of potass, and one of 
madder. To dye it of a dark blue, it must previ- 
ously receive what is called a ground-colour; a red 
dye-stuff, called archil, is used for this purpose. 
To dye cctton and linen blue. 

Cotton and linen are dyed blue by a solution of 
one part of indigo, one part of green sulphate ot 
iron, and two parts of quick-lime. 
Yellow dyes. 

The principal colouring matters for dyeing yel- 
low, are weld, fustic, and quercitron bark. Yel- 
low colouring raatters have too wieak an affinity 
for cloth, to produce permanent colours witliout 
\.ne use of mordants. Cloth, therefore, before it 
is dyed yellow, is always prepared by soaking it 
in aluraine. Oxide of tin is sometimes used when 
very fine yellows are wanting. Tan is often em- 
ployed as subsidiary to alumine, and in order to 
fix it more copiously on cotton and linen. Tartar 
is also used as an auxiliary, to brigiiten the colour; 
and muriate of soda, sulphate of lime, and even 
sulphate of iron, to render the shade deeper. 
The yellow dye by means of fustic is more perma- 
nent, but not so beautiful as that given by weld, 
or quercitron. As it is permanent, and not much 
injured by acids, it is often used in dyeing com- 
pound colours, where a yellow is required. The 
mordant is aluraine. When the mordant is oxide 
of iron, fustic dyes a good permanent drab colour. 
Weld and quercitron bark yield neaily the same 
kind of colour; but the bark yields colouring mat- 
ter in greater abundance and is cheaper than weld. 
The method of using each of these dye-stuffs is 
nearly the same. 

To dye tuoolleiis yellotu. 

Wool may be dyed yellow by the following pro- 
cess; let it be boiled for an hour, or more, with 
above one-sixth of its weight of alum, dissolved in 
a sufficient quantity of water as a mordant. It is 
then to be plunged, without being rinsed, into a 
bath of warm water, containing as much querci- 
tron bark as equals the weight of tlie alum em- 
ployed as a mordant. The cloth is to be turned 
through the boiling liquid, till it has acquired the 
intended colour. Then, a quantity of clean pow- 
dered chalk, equal to the hundreth part of the 
weight of the cloth, is to be stirred in, and the 
operation of dyeing continued for eight or ten mi- 
.dutes longer. By this method a pretty deep and 
'vely yellow may be given. 

For very bright orange, or golden yellow, it is 
)ecessary to use the oxide ot tin as a mordant. 
For producing bright golden yellows, some alum 
must be added, along with the. tin. To give the 
yellow a delicate gi icn shade, tartar must be 
added in different proportions, according to tlie 
shade. 

Tn dye silks yello-w. 

Silk may be dyed of different shades of yellow, 
either by weld or quercitron bark, but the last is 
the cheapesf of the two. The proportion should 
be from one to two parts of bark, to twelve pai'ts 
of silk, according to the shade. The bark, tied 
up in a bag, should be put into the dyeing vessel, 
whilst the water which It contai-ns is cold; and 
when it has acquired the heat rf about 101) degrees, 
the silk, having been previously alumed, should be 
dipped in, and continued, till it assumes the wish- 
ed-for colour. When the shade is required to be 
deep, p. little chalk, or pearl-ash, should be added 
towards the end of the oparation. 

To dye linens and cottons yellow. 

The mordant should be acetate of alumine, pre- 
pared by dissolving one part of acetate of lead, and 
three parts of alum, in a sufficient quantity of wa- 
ter. This solution should be heate\ to the tem- 
perature of 100 degrees: the cloth should be soak- 



ed in it for two hours, then wrung out and dried. 
The soaking may be repeated, and the cloth again 
dried as before. It is then to be bar"ly wetted 
with lime-water, and afterwards dried. I'he soak- 
ing in the acetate of alumine may be again repeat- 
ed; and if the shade of j'ellow is required to be 
veiy bright and durable, the alternate wetting with 
lime-water aiid soaking in the mordant may be re- 
{leated three or four '^imes. 

The dyeing-bath is prepared by putting 12 or 18 
parte of quercitron bark (according to the depth of 
the shade required), tied up in a bag, into a suf- 
ficient quantity of cold water. Into this bath the 
cloth is to be put, and turned in it for an hour, 
wnile its temperature is gradually liaised to about 
130 degrees. It is then to be brought to a boiling 
heat, and the cloth allowed to remain in it only for 
a few minutes. Vi it is kept long at a boiling heat, 
the yellow acquires a shade of brown. 
To fix a fine mineral yellow upon -wool, silk, cot- 
ton, hemp, &c. 

IViiX one pound of sulphur, two pounds of white 
oxide of arsenic, and five parts of pearl-ash; and 
melt the whole in a crucible, at a beat a little 
short of redness. The result is a yellow iuass, 
which is to be dissolved in hot water; and the li- 
quor filtrated, to separate it from a sediment form- 
ed chiefly of metallic arsenic, in shining plates, 
f nd in a small part, of a cbocolafL'-coioured mat- 
ter, which appears to be a sub-sulphuret of arsenic. 
Dilute the filtrated liquor, then add weak sulphu- 
ric acid, which produces a flocculent preci[)itate, 
of a most brilliant yellow colour. This precipitate, 
, washed upon a cloth filter, dissolves with the ut- 
most ease in liquid ammonia, giving a yellow so- 
lution, which colour is to be removed by an ex- 
cess of the same alkali. 

■ To prepare realgar. 

The most brilliant and permanent yellow that 
can be imagined, is the sulphuret of arsenic, or 
realgar, into which, mjre or less dilut-rd, ?oci .-d- 
ing to the depth of tint required, th2 wool, silk, 
cotton, or linen, is to be dipped. All metallic 
utensils must be carefully avoided. When the 
stuffs come out of this bath the^^^ are colourless, 
but they insensibly take on a yellow hue as the 
ammonia evaporates. They ai'e to be exposed as 
equally as possible to a current of open air; and 
when the colour is v/ell come out, and no longer 
heightens, they are to be washed and dried. 

Wool should be fulled in the ammoniacal solu- 
tion, and should remain in it till it is thoroughly 
soaked; then, very slightly and uniformly pressed, 
or else merely set to drain of itself. Silk, cotton, 
hemp, and flax, are only to be dipped in the dye- 
ing liquid, which they easily take. They must 
then be well pressed. 

The sulphuret of arsenic will give every ima- 
ginable tint to stuffs, from the deep golden yellow 
to tlie lightest straw-colour, which has the inva- 
riable advantage of never fading, of lasting even 
longer than the stuffs themselves, and of resisting 
all re-agents, except alkalies. Hence it is pecu- 
liarly fitted for costly tapestry, velvets, and other 
articles of furniture which are not in danger of be- 
ing washed with alkalies or soap, and to which the 
durability of colour is a most important object. It 
may also be used with advantage in paper-staining. 
Bed dyes. 

The colouring matters employed for dyeing red, 
are archil, madder, carthamus, kermes, cochineal, 
and Brazil-wood. 

'1 'o dye woollens red, crimson, and scarlet. 

Coarse woollen stuft's are dyed red with madder 
orarchi.i: but fine cloth is almost exclusively dyed 
with cochineal, though the colour which it re- 
ceives from kermes is much more durable. Bra- 



DYEING. 



85 



xil wood is scarcely used, except as an auxiliary, 
because the colour, which it imparts to wool, is not 
permanent. . 

Wood is died crimson, by first impi-egnating it 
with alumine, by means of an alum bath, and then 
boiling it in a decoction of cochineal, till it has 
acquired the wished-for colour. The crimson will be 
finer, if the tin-mordant is substituted for alum; 
indeed, it is usual with dyers, to add a little nitro- 
muriate of tin, when they want fine crimsons. The 
addition of arcliil and potass to the cochineal, both 
renders the' crimson darker, and gives it more 
bloom; but the bloom very soon vanishes. For 
paler crimsons, one-half of the cochineal is with- 
drawn, and madder substituted in its place. 

Wool may be dyed scarlet, by first boiling it in 
a solution of murio-sulphate of tin, then dyeing it 
pale yellow with quercitron bark, and afterwards 
crimson with cochineal; for scarlet is a compound 
colour, consisting of crimson mixed with a little 
vellow. 

To carry the colour into the body of cloth. 

Make the moistened cloth pass through between 
rollers placed within at the bottom of the dye-vat; 
BO that the web, passing from one windlass through 
the dye-vat, and being strongly compressed by tlie 
rollers in its passage to another windlass, all the 
remaining water is driven out, and is I'e-placed by 
the colouring liquid, so as to receive colour into 
its very centre. The winding should be continued 
backwards and forwards from one windlass to the 
other, and through the rolling-press, till tlie dye is 
of sufficient intensity. 

To dye mlks red, crimson, &c. 

Silk is usually dyed red with cochineal, or car- 
thamus, and sometimes v/itli Brazil-wood. Kerraes 
does not answer for silk; madder is scarcely ever 
used for that purpose, because it does not yield a 
colour bright enough. Arcliil is eix ployed to give 
silk a oloom; but it is scarcely ever used by itself, 
unless when the colour wanted is lilac. 

Silk may be dyed crimson, by steeping it in a 
solution of al'im, and then dyeing it in the usual way 
in a cochineal bath. 

The colours known by the names oipoppy, cher- 
ry, rose, a.aA flesh colour, are given to silk by means 
of carthamus. The process consists merely in keep- 
ing the silk as long as it extracts any colour, in an 
alkaline solution oV carthamus, into which as much 
lemon-juice, as gives it a fine cher'T'-red colour, 
has been poured. 

Silk cannot be dyed a full scarlet; but a colour 
approaching to scarlet may be given to it, by first 
impregnating the stuff with murio-sulphate cf tin, 
«nd afterwards dyeing it in a bath, composed of 
four parts of cochineal, and four parts of quercitron 
bark. To give the colour more body, both the 
mordant and the dye may be repeated. 

A colour, approaching to scarlet, may be given to 
silk, by first dyeing it in crimson, then dyeing it 
with carthamus; and lastly, yellow, without heat. 
To dye linens and cottons red, scarlet, &c. 

Cotton and linen ai'e dyed red with madder. The 
process was borrowed from tlie east; hence the co- 
lour is often called Adrianople, or Turkey-red. 
The cloth is first Impregnated with oil, then with 
galls, and lastly v.-ith alum. It is then boiled for 
an hour in a decoction of madder, which is com- 
monly mixed with a quantity of blood. After the 
cloth is dyed, it is plunged into a soda ley, in or- 
der to brighten the colour. The red, given by this 
process, is very permanent; and when properly 
conducted, it is exceedingly beautiful. The whole 
difficulty consists in the application of the mor- 
dant, which is by far the most complicated em- 
ployed in the whole art of dyeing. 

Cotton may be dyed scarlet, by means of murio- 



sulphate of tin, cochineal, and quercitron bark, 
used as for silk, but tlie colour is too fading to be 
of any value. 

Black dyes. 

The substances employed to give a black colour 
to cloth, are red oxide of iron and tan. These 
two substances have a strong affinity for each other 
and when combined, assume a deep black colour, 
not liable to be destroyed by tlie action of air or 
light. 

Logwood is usually employed as an auxiliary, 
because it communicates lustre, and adds conside- 
rably to the fulness of the black. It is tlie wood 
of a tree whicli is a native of several of the West- 
India islands, and of that part of Mexico which 
surrounds the bay of Honduras. It yields its co- 
louring matter to water. The decoction is at first 
a fine red, bordering on violet: but if left to itself, 
it gradually assumes a black colour. Acids give it 
a deep red colour; alknlies, a deep violet, inclin- 
ing to brown; sulphate of iron renders it as black 
as ink, and occasions a pi'ccipitate of the same co- 
lour. 

Cloth, before it receives a black colour, is usu- 
ally dyed blue: this renders the colour much fuller 
and finer than it would otherwise be. If th ! cloth 
is coarse, the blue dye may be too expensive; in 
tliat case, a brown colour is given by means of 
walnut-peels. 

To dye -woollens Mack. 

Wool is dyed black by the following process, h 
Is boi'ad for two hours in a decoction of nut-galls, 
and afterwa'-ds kept, for t'vo hours more, in a bath, 
composed of logwood and sulphate of iron; kept, 
during tht; whole time, at a scalding heat, but not 
boiling. Jluring the operation, it must be fre- 
quentlj rxiosed to the air; because tlie green ox- 
ide of iron, of which the sulphate is composed, must 
be conve'ted into red oxide by absorbing oxygen, 
before the cloth can acquire a pi'oper colour. The 
common proportions are five parts of galls, five of 
sulphate of iron, and thirty of logwood, for every 
hundred of cloth. A little acetate of copper 
is commonly added to the sulphate of iron, be- 
cause it is thought to improve the colour. 
To dye silks black. 

Silk is dyed nearly in the same manner. It is 
capable of combining with a great deal of tan; the 
quantity given is varied at the pleasure of the artist, 
by allowing the silk to remain a longer or shorter 
time in tlie decoction. 

To dye cottons and linens black. 

The cloth, previously dyed blue, is steeped lor 
24 hours in a decoction of nut-galls. A bath is 
prepared containing acetate of iron, formed by 
saturating acetous acid with brown oxide of iron: 
into this bath the cloth is put in small quantities at 
a time, wrought with the iiand for a quarter of at» 
hour; then wrung out, and aired again; wrought in 
a fresh quantity of the bath, and afterwards aired. 
These alternate processes are repeated till the co- 
lour wanted is given: a decoction of alder bark is 
usually mixed with the liquor containing the nut- 
galls. 

To dye -wool, &c. bro-wn. 

Brown, or fawn colour, though in fict a com 
pound, is usually ranked among the simple colours, 
because it bs applied to cloth by a single process. 
Various substances are used for brown dy 3. 

Walnut-peels, or the green covering of the wal- 
nut, when first separated, are white internally, but 
soon assume a brown, or eveii a black coloar, on 
exposure to the air. They readily yield their co- 
louring matter to water. They are usually kept in 
large casks, covered with water, for aoove a year 
before they areaseil. To dye wool brown wiihlhem, 
nothing more is necc^ary, than to steep the cloth 



86 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



in a decoction of them till it has acquired the 
wished-for colour. The depth of the shade is pro- 
portional to the strength of the decoction. 

The root of the walnut-tree contains the same 
colouring matter, hut in smaller quantity. The 
bark of tlie birch also, and many other trees, may 
be used tv^r the same purpose. 

To dye compound colours. 

Compound colours are produced by mixing to- 
gether two simple ones; or which is the same thing 
by dyeing doth first of the simple colour, and then 
by another. These colours vary to infinity, ac- 
cording to the proportions of tlie ingredients em- 
ployed. From blue, red, and yellow, red olives 
and greenish greys are made. 

From blue, red, and brown, olives are made 
from the lightest to the darkest shades; and by 
giving a greater sliade of red, the slated and laven- 
der greys are made. 

From blue, red, and black, greys of all shades 
are made, such as sage, pigeon, slate, and lead 
greys. The king's or prince's colour is duller than | 
usual; this mixture produces a variety of hues, or 
colours almost to infinity. 

From yellow, blue, and brown, are made the 
goose dung and olives of all kinds. 

From brown, blue, and black, are produced 
brotvn olives, and their shades. 

From the red, yellow, and brown, are derived 
the orange, gold colour, feuille-mort, or faded leaf, 
dead carnations, cinnanlon, fawn, and tobacco, by 
using two or tlu-ee of the colours as required. 

From yellow, red, and black, broions of every 
shade are made. 

From blue and yellow, greens of all shades. 

From red and blue, purples of all kinds are 
formed. 

To dye different shades of green. 

Green is distinguished by dyers into a variety of 
shades, according to the depth, or the prevalence 
of either of the component parts. Tlius, we have 
sea-green, grass-green, pea-green, &c. 

Wool, silk, and linen, are usually dyed green, 
by giving them first a blue colour, and afterwards 
dyeing them yellow; when the yelloxu is first given, 
several inconveniences follow: the yellow partly 
separates again in the blue vat, and communicates 
a green colour to it; thus rendering it useless for 
every other purpose except dyeing green. Any of 
the usual processes for dyeing blue and yellow, 
may be followed, taking care to proportion the 
depth of the shades to that of the green required. 

Wlien sulphate of indigo is employed, it is usual 
to mix all the ingredients together, and to dye the 
cloth at once; this produces what is known by the 
name of Saxon, or English green. 

To dye violet, purple, and lilac. 

Wool is generally first dyed blue, and after- 
wards scarlet, in the usual manner. By means of 
cochineal mixed with sulphate of indigo, the pro- 
cess may be performed at once. Silk is first dyed 
crimson, by means of cochineal, and tlien dipped 
into the indigo vat. Cotton and linen are first dyed 
blue, and then dipped in a decoction of logwood; 
but a more permanent colour is given by means of 
i)xide of iron. 

To dye olive, orange, and cinnamon. 

When blue is combined with red and yellow on 
cloth, Hie resulting colour is olive. Wool may be 
dyed orange, by first dyeing it scarlet, and then 
yellow. When it is dyed first witli madder,. the 
result is a cinnamon colour. 

Silk is dyed orange by means of carthamus; a 
cinnamon colour by logwood, Brazil-wood, and 
fustic, mixed together. 

Cotton and linen receive a cinnamon colour by 
means of weld and madder; and an olive-colour 



by being passed through a blue, yellow, and then a 
madder bath. 

To dye grey, drab, and dark brown. 

If cloth is previously combined with brown oxide 
of iron, and afterwards dyed yellow with querci- 
tron bark, the result will be a drab of diiferent 
shades, accoMingto the proportion of mordant em- 
ployed. When the propoi'tion is small, the colour 
inclines to olive, or yellow; on the contraiy, the 
drab may be deepened, or saddened, as the dyers 
term it, by mixing a little sumach with the bark. 
To dye a black upon cotton, linen, and mixea 
goods. 

Take tar, iron liquor of the very best quality; 
add to each gallon thereof, three quarters of a 
pound of fine flour, and boil it to the consistency 
of a thin paste. Put the liquor or paste abovemen- 
tioned into a tub belonging to a machine used in 
the process. The goods intended to be dyed are 
wound upon a roller, and passed through the 
liquor or paste, betwixt the two rollers; thereby 
completely staining or dyeing the whole mass or 
body of the cloth. Pass them into a very hot stove 
or dr}'ing-house till dry, then take cow's dung, put 
it into a large copper of water about scalding hot, 
and mix it well tos<ether, through which pass the 
piece of cloth until it be thoroughly softened. Wash 
the goods, so dunged, extremely well in water. 
Take a quantity of madder, or logwood, or su- 
mach, or all of them mixed together, as the strength 
of the cloth and nature of the colour may require, 
and put them into a copper, or tub of hot water 
then enter the goods before mentioned in this li- 
quor, and keep rinsing or moving them therein, 
until they are brought up to the strength of colour 
required. Have the goods again well washed and 
dried. For dyeing black, it will be proper to pasb 
the goods a second time through the above opera- 
tions; adding moi-e or less of the dyeing-woods as 
before. If after the above operations the s.iade of 
colour is too full, or too muih upon the red hue, 
it will be necessary to give them a little sumach, 
and then run them through a liquor made from iron 
and owler, or alder bark. 

Another method. 

Take common iron liquor, and add 3-4ths of a 
pound of fine flour, and by boiling bring it to the 
consistency of a thin paste; or instead of flour, add 
glue or linseed, or gum, or all of them mixed to- 
gether, till it is brought to a pi'oper thickness. 
Then pass the goods through the machine, and 
follow tlie before m^entioned operations. 
To dye olives, bottle greens, purples, brorans, cin- 
namons, or smiffs. 

Take common iron liquor, or common iron li- 
quor with aium dissolved therein, in quantity of 
each according to the shade of colour wanted, made 
into a paste or liquid, by adding flom', gum, glue, 
linseed, or one or more of them as before. Then 
put the liquor or paste above mentioned into a tub 
belonging to the machine, and pass the goods so 
intended to be dyed, through the machine. Take 
them from the machine, and hang them up in a 
very cool room, where they are to remain till tho- 
rouglily dry. Take cow's dung, put it into a large 
copper of hot water, and mix it well together ; 
through which pass the cloth or goods until tho- 
roughly softened, the quantity of dung and time re- 
quired, being proportioned as before. 

The goods after this process being well washed, 
take a quantity of liquor made from madder, log- 
wood, sumach, fustic, Brazil, woad, quercitron 
bark, peach wood, or other woods, to produce the 
colour wanted, o.- more of them; and if necessary 
dilute this liquor with water, according to the shade 
or fulness of colour wanted to be dyed. Then work 
the goods through this liquor : after which pass 



DYEING. 



87 



tnera through cold or warm water, according to the 
colour, the proper application of which is well known 
to dyers, adding a little alum, copperas, or Roman 
viti-iol, or two or more of them, first dissolved in 
water. Then wash t-liem off in warm water, anf.l 
dry them. But if tlie colour is not sufliciently full, 
repeat the same operations till it is brought to the 
shade required. 

To dye crimson, red, orange, or yellotv. 
Take red liquor, such as is generally made from 
alum, and dilute it with water according to the 
strength or shade of colour wanted to dye, bring- 
ing it to the consistency of a paste or liquid, as be- 
fore described. Then pass the cloth through the 
machine; whicli being dried in a cool room, pass 
it tlirough the operations of dunging and washing 
as before. Take a quantity of liquor, made from 
cochineal, madder, peach-wood, Brazil, logwood, 
woad, fustic, sumach, or any two or more of them 
proportioned in strength to the shade or colour 
wanted to dye, and work the goods through this li- 
quor till they are brou.ght to the shade of colour 
required; after which wash them in cold or warm 
water, and dry them. 

To dye cotton, luool, and silk, tmth Prussian blue. 
Immerse the cotton into a large tub of water 
sligiitly acidulated and charged with pnissiale of 
potass. These sorts of stuffs dyed in Prussian blue, 
and then in olive transformed into green, are par- 
ticularly sought after in trade. By processes ana- 
logous to tiiose employed for cotton stuffs, the in- 
ventor has obtained the same shades and colours, 
on samples of silk; and for many years, he has even 
succeeded in fixing Prussian blue on wool, and in 
producing on cloth the same shades as on cotton 
and silk. 

Dyeing -with Prussian blue. 
By the following process, a brilli.ant and perma- 
nent colour, called Raymond blue, from its pro- 
poser Mr Raymond, Professor of Chemistry at 
Lyons, may be produced; a colour more bright than 
and as deep as that obtained from indigo, fur- 
nislring likewise a sky-blue, not attainable fi'om 
that substance. 

The silk, after its usual boiling with soap, is to 
be cleansed in a large quantity ot water; it is then 
to be immersed iiia solution oftheper-sulphate of 
iron (copperas of a dark green), the oxide of which 
combines with the silk — the proper quantity of fer- 
ruginous matter the silk has absorbed is indicated 
by the greater or less intensity of the yellow colour 
it presents. It is then to be rinsed with great care 
to remove all the free acid, and plunged in a batli 
of prussiate of potash acidulated by sulphuric acid. 
The dyeing is effected in a few minutes. When 
this is done it must be rinsed again in clear water, 
and brightened with purified urine largely diluted 
with water, into which is occasionally thrown a lit- 
tle acetic acid. 

Chevrexd's mode of graduating shades of colour 
from Pi^issian blue. 
Impregnate each parcel of silk to be dyed with 
a different proportion of the oxide of iron by im- 
mersing it in a solution, the strength of which has 
been regulated accordingly. For die deeper tones 
of colour employ the acetate, and for the others the 
muri ate or sulphate. After having properly rinsed 
(in separate water) each parcel, it is to be dipp- 
ed into distinct baths of the prussiate of potash, the 
quantity of -which has been made to correspond with 
the quantity of oxide of iron previously united to it. 
With these precautions all the desired shades may 
be obtained. Those which are light and have a 
greenish cast should be well washed in river water, 
which will soon produce the blue in its purity. — If 
this does not happen a very -weak solution of mu- 
riatic acid will produce the effect to a certainty. 



To precipitate acetates of lead and copper, on 
tuool, silk, and cotton. 

Soak the stuff which is required to be dyed, in 3 
sol ul ion of acetate, or rather sub-acetate of 1 2ad, 
wring it when it comes out of the bath, drying it 
in the shade, afterwards wasli it, and again im- 
merse it in water charged with sulphuretted hydro- 
gen gas. By this process are obtained, in a few 
minutes, rich and well-iaid shades, which vary 
from the clear vigone colour to tiie deep brown, 
accordingto the force of the mordant and the num- 
ber of the immersions of tlie stuffs in the two bath- 
ing vessels. From the order of afl^iiities, it is the 
wool which takes colour the best, afterwards the 
silk, then the cotton, and lastly the thread, which 
appears little apt to coml)ine with the mordant. 

The different colours above indicated, resist the 
air well, likewise feeble acids, alkalies, and boil- 
ing soap, which modify their shades in an imper- 
ceptible manner, and these shades are so striking, 
that it will appear difficult to obtain them in auy 
other manner. 

This new kind of dye is very economical. The 
sulphuretted hydrogen gas is obtained from a mix- 
ture of two parts of iron filings, and one of urim- 
stone melted in a pot; this brimstone h, bruised, 
introduced into a matrass, and the gas is removed 
by sulphuric acid extended in water to a mild heat. 
The gas absorbs abundantly in cold water. 
To dye cotton doth black. 

Take a quantity of Molacca nuts, which in Ben- 
gal are sold at 2s. per cwt., and boil them in wa- 
ter, in close earthen vessels, with the leaves of the 
tree. During the boiling, a whitish substance, 
formed from the mucilage and oil of the nuts, will 
rise to the surface; this must be taken off and pre- 
served. The cloth intended to be black mi st be 
printed with this scum, and then dyed, after which 
let it be passed through lime water, wlien the 
printed figures will be changed to a full and per- 
manent black. 

To dye -wool a permanent blue colour. 

Take 4 ounces of the best indigo, reduce it to a 
very fine powder, and add 12 pounds of wool, in 
the grease; put the whole into a copper large 
enough to contain all the wool to be dyed. As 
soon as the requisite colour is obtained, let tiie 
wool be well washed and dried. The liquor re- 
maining may be again used, to produce lighter 
blues. The colour will be as beautiful and per 
raanent as the finest blue, produced by woad, and 
the wool, by this method, will lose less in weight 
than if it had been previously scoured. 
To produce thii Swiss deep and pale red topical 
mordants. 

When th^; cotton cloth has been freed by steep- 
ing and boiling in soap and water, from the paste 
used by the weaver, and any otlier impurities it 
may have acquired, immerse it thoroughly, ov, as 
it is called, tramp or pad it in a solution of any al- 
kali, and oil or grease, forming an imperfect soap, 
or boil it in any of the perfect soaps dissolved in wa- 
ter, or in a solution of soda and gallipoli oil, in the 
proportion of 1 gallon of oil to 20 gallons of soda 
lees, at the strength of four degrees and a half; 
then dry the cloth in the stove, and repeat the pro- 
cess several times, which may be varied at plea- 
sure, according to the lustre and durability of the 
colour wanted, stove-drying the cloth between 
every immersion. To the above solutions add a 
little sheep's dung, for the first three immersions; 
these are called the dung liquors; alter the cloth 
has received the dung liquors, it is steeped for 12 
hours in a quantity of water, 110 degrees of Fah- 
renheit; this is called the green steep. The cloth 
being again stove-dried, is immersed as above in a 
solution of ulkali and oil, or grease, or boiled in 



88 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



perfect soap dissolved, but without the siieep's 
aung; or ohener, according to the brilliancy of 
colours wanted, stove-drying, as before, between 
every immersion; these are called the white li- 
quors. Steep the cloth for 12 liours at 125° Fah- 
renheit, wliioh ftrms what is called the white 
steep. The cloth being now thoroughly washed 
in cold water, and dried, is ready to receive, first, 
the pink mordant, which is composed as follows: — 
take equal quantities, by measurement, of a decoc- 
tion of galls at the strength of four to six, and a 
solut'on of alum at one half degree, the alum being 
previously saturated with whitening, or any other 
alkali, in the proportion of 1 ounce to the pound 
weight of alum; mix them together, and raise the 
temperature to 140 degrees of lahrenheit, or as 
hot as can be handled. By immersion, as formerly 
mentioned, in this mixture, the cloth, when dyed 
and cleared, exhibits a beautiful pink, equal, if not 
superior, to tlial produced by cochineal. 
To dye jilks and satins broxvn in the small -way. 
Fill the copper M'ith river water, when it gently 
boils, put in a quarter of a pound of chipped fustic, 
two ounces of madder, one ounce of sumach, and 
half an ounce of cam-wood; but if not required to 
be so red, the cam-wood may be omitted. These 
should boil, at least, from half an hour to two 
hours, that the ingredients may be well incorpo- 
rated. The cojtper must then be cooled down by 
pouring in cold water: the goods maj^ then be put 
in, and simmered gently from half an hour to an 
hour. If this colour should appear to want dark- 
ening, or saddening, it may be done by taking out 
the goods, and adding a small quantity of old 
black liquor; a small piece of green copperas may 
1)6 use(S ; rinse in two or three waters, and hang up 
to dry. 

To dye silks offatun colour drabs. 
Boil one ounce of fustic, half an ounce of alder 
nark, and two draclims of archil. From one to 
four drachms of the best crop madder must be ad- 
ded to a very small quantity of old black liquor, 
if it be required darker. 

Tu dye a silk sfunvl scarlet. 
First dissolve two ounces of white soap in boil- 
ing water, handle the shawl througii this liquor, 
now and then rubbing such places with the hands 
as may aiipear dirty, till it is as clean as this wa- 
ter will make it. A second, or even a third liquor 
may be used, if required: the shawl must be rinsed 
out in warm water. 

Then take half an ounce of the best Spanish an- 
iiatto, and dissolve it in hot water; pour this solu- 
tion into a pan of warm water, and handle the 
shawl tlirough this for a quarter of an hour; then 
take it out and rinse it in clean water. In the 
meanwhile dissolve a piece of alum of tiie size of 
a horse bean in warm water, and let the shawl re- 
main in this hslf an hour; take it out and rinse it 
in clear water. Then boil a quarter of an ounce 
of the best cochineal for twenty minutes, dip it out 
of the copper into a pan, and let the shawl remain 
in this from twenty minutes to half an hour, which 
will make it a full" blood red. Then take out the 
bbawl, and add to the liquor in the pan a quart 
more of that out of the copper, if there is as much 
i-eraaining, and about half a small wine-glassful of 
the solution of tin: when cold, rinse it slightly out 
in spring water. 

To dye a silh shawl crimson. 
Take about a table spoonful of cud-bear, put it 
into a small pan, po'ir boiling water upon it, stir 
and let it stand a few minutes, then put in the silk, 
and turn it over a short time, and when the colour 
is full enough, take it out: but if it should require 
more violet or crimson, add a spoonlul or two of 
purple archil to some warm water, and dry it within 



doors. To finish it, it must be mangled or ca- 
lendered, and may be x^ressed, if suca a conveni- 
ence is at hand. 

To dye silk lilac. 

For every pound of silk, take one pound and a 
half of archil, mix it well with the liquor; make it 
boil a quarter of an hour, dip the silk quickly, 
then let it cool, and wash it in river water, and a 
fine violet, or lilac, more or less full, will be ob- 
tained. 

To dye thick silks, satins, silk stockings, &c. of a 
flesh colour. 

Wash the stockings clean in soap and water, 
then rinse them in hot water; if they should not 
then appear perfectly clear, cut half an ounce ot 
white soap into thin slices, and put it into a sauce- 
pan half full of boiling water; when this soap is 
dissolved, cool the water in the pan, then put in 
the stockings, and simmer for twenty minutes; 
take them out, and rinse in hot water; in the in- 
terim pour three table spoonsful of purple archil 
into a wash-hand basin half full of liot water; put 
the stockings in tliis dye water, and when of the 
shade called half violet or lilac, take them from 
tlie dye -water, and slightly rinse them in cold 5 
when dry hang them up in a close room in which 
sulphur is burnt; when they are evenly bleached 
to the shade required of flesh colour, take them 
from the sulphuring-room, and finish them by 
rubbing the right side w it n a clean flannel. Some 
persons calender them afterwards. Satins and silks 
are done the same way. 

To dye silk stockings black. 

These are dyed like other silks, excepting that 
they must be steeped a day or two in black liquor, 
before they :tre put into the black silk dye. At 
first they will look like an iron grey; but, to finisli 
and black them, tliey must be put on wooden legs, 
laid on a table, and rubbed with the oily rubber, 
or flannel, upon which is oil of olives, and then the 
more they are rubbed the better. Each pair of 
stockings will require half a table spoonful of oil, 
at least, and halt an hour's rubbing, to finish them 
well. Sweet oil is tlie best in this process, as it 
leaves no disagreeable smell. 

'J'o dye strata and chip bonnets black. 

Chip hats being composed of the shavings of 
wood, are stained black in various ways. First, 
by being boiled in strong logwood liquor three 
or four hours; they must be often taken out 
to cool in the air, and now and then a small 
quantity of green copperas must be added to the 
liquor, and this contiuued for several hours. The 
saucepan or kettle that they are dyed in may re- 
main with the bonnets in it all night; the next 
morning they must be taken out and dried in the 
air, and brushed witli a soft brush. Lastly, a 
sponge is dipped in oil, and squeezed almost to 
dryness; with this the bonnets are rubbed all over, 
both inside and out, and then sent to the blockers 
to be blocked. Others boil them in logwood; and 
instead of green copperas, use steel tilings steeped 
in vinegar; after which tliey are finislied as above. 
To dye straw bonnets brown. 

Take a sufliciept quantity of Brazil wood, su- 
mach, bark, madder, and copperas, and sadden, 
according to the shade required. 
To remove the stain of light colotirs from the liands. 

\Vash the hands in soap and water, in which 
some pearl-ash is dissolved. 

To dye black cloth green. 

Clean the cloth well with bullock's gall and wa- 
ter, and rinse in warm water; then make a copper 
full of river water, boiling hot, and take from one 
pound to one pound and a half of fustic; put it in, 
and boil it twenty minutes, to which add a lump 
of alum of the size of a walnut; when this is dis 



DYEING. 



89 



solved in the copper, put in the coat, and boil it 
twenty minutes; then take it out, and add a small 
wine glass, three parts full, of chemic blue, and 
boil again from half an hour to an hour, and the 
cloth will be a beautiful dark green; then wash out 
and dry. 

Calico printing. 

This art consists in dyeing cloth with certain co- 
lours and figures upon a ground of a different hue; 
the colours, when they will not take hold of the 
clotli readily, being fixed to them by means of 
mordants, as a prepai-ation of alum, made by dis- 
solving 3 lbs. of alum audi lb. of acetate of lead in 
8 lbs. of warm water. There are added at the 
same time, 2 ounces of potash, and 2 ounces of 
chalk. 

Acetate of iron, also, is a mordant in frequent 
use in the printing of calicoes; but tlie simple mix- 
ture of alum and acetate of lead is found to answer 
best as a mordant. 

To apply the mordants. 

Tlie mordants are ajjplied to the cloth, either 
with a pencil, or by means of blocks, on wnich the 
pattern, according tr which the cctton is to be 
printed, is cut. , As tliey are applied only to par- 
ticular parts of the cloth, care must be taken that 
none of them spread to tlie part of the cloth which 
is to he left white, and that they do not interfere 
with each other when several are applied; it is 
necessary, therefore, tliat tlie mor.lauts should be 
of such a degree of consistence, that they will not 
spread beyond those parts of the oloth on which 
they are applied. This is done by tliickening 
them with flour or starch, when they are to be ap- 
plied by the block, and witli gum arabic wlien 
they are to be put on with the pencil. The thick- 
ening should never be greater than is sufficient to 
prevent tiie spreading of the mordants; when car- 
ried too far, the cotton is apt not to be sufficiently 
saturated witli the mordants, and of course llie dye 
takes but imperfectly. 

In order that the parts of the cloth impregnated 
with mordants may be distinguished by their co- 
lour, it is usual to tinge the mordants with some 
colouring matter. The printers commonly use the 
decoction of Brazil wood for this purpose. 

Sometimes, the two mordants are mixed to- 
gether in different proportions; and sometimes one 
or both is mixed with an infusion of sumach, or of 
nut-galls. By these contrivances a great variety 
oi" colours are produced by the same dye-stuff. 
Process of dyeing, &c. 

After the mordants have been applied, the cloth 
must be completely dried. It is proper fer this 
pm'pose to employ heat, which will contribute to- 
wards the separation of the acetous acid from its 
base, and towards its evaporation; by which means 
the mordant will combine in a greater proportion, 
and more intimately with the cloth. 

When the cloth is sufficiently dried, it is to be 
washed with warm water and cow-dung: till the 
flower or gum employed to thicken the mordants, 
and all those parts of the mordants which are un- 
combined with the cloth, are removed. After 
this, the cloth is to be thoroughly rinsed in clean 
water. 

Dye-stuffs. 

Almost the only dye-stufls employed by calico- 
printers are indigo, madder, and quercitron bark, 
or weld; but this last substance is little used, ex- 
cept for delicate greenish yellows. The querci- 
tron bark gives colours equally good; and is much 
cheaper and more convenient, not requiring so 
great a heat to fix it. Indigo, not requiring any 
mordant, is commonly applied at once, either by 
a block or by a pencil. It is prepared by boiling 
together indigo and potash, made caustic by quick 
M 



lime and orpiment; the solution is afterwards 
thickened with gum. It must be carefully seclu- 
ded from the air, otherwise the indigo would soon 
be regenerated, which would render the solution 
useless. Dr Bancroft has proposed to substitute 
coarse brown sugar for orpiment: it is equally ef- 
ficacious in decomposing the indigo, and render- 
ing it soluble; while it likewise serves all the 
purposes of gimi. Some calicoes are only printed 
of one colour, others have two, and others three 
or more, even to the number of eiglit, ten, or 
twelve. The smaller the number of colours, the 
fewer in general, are the processes. 
A^yTiV process to separate the red colouring principle 
of madder. 

For this purpose three tubs are necessary, say, 
A, B, C. The first, or A, sufficient for 5.5 pounds 
of madder, is to be two feet eiglit inches deep, and 
two feet six in diameter. The second, or B, is five 
feet and a half high and tliree feet in diameter. 
This tub is to be furnished with three cocks, the 
first placed at two, the second at three, and 
the third at four feet above its bottom. A serves 
as a fermentina: tub; B, a washing vessel; and C, 
as a deposit. ihese tubs are placed near to each 
other, in the summer, in the open air, under a 
shed; in the winter, in a cellar kept at from 66' to 
70' Fahrenheit. To commence the process, put 
from jO to 55 pounds of ground madder into A, 
and add water, stirring the mixture continually, 
until the madder, when at rest, is covered with an 
inch and a half of water. In 36 or 48 hours (be- 
ing at rest,) fermentation takes place and raises a 
crust of madder to the surface. The mass is now 
to be transfen-ed to the second tub or B, which i» 
then to be filled with water, where it is to repose 
for two hours. The uppermost cock is then open- 
ed, next the under one, and lastly the third. The 
liquor collected from the secoi.d and third cocks 
is carried to the tub C, where the precipitation of 
the madder that escaped from B, is oomph ted. 
You may make repeated washings of the madder 
in B, until the water ceases to be coloured. Care 
should be taken in summer, to prevent the madder 
from fermenting a second time. The madder in 
C being washed and precipitated, is equally good 
with tilt other. 

To print yelloio. 

For yellow, the block is besmeared with acetate 
of aluraine. The clotb, after receiving this mor- 
dant, is dyed with quercitron bark, and is then 
bleached. 

JVankeen yelloxv. — One of the most common co- 
lours on cotton prints, is a kind of Nankeen yellow, 
of various shades down to a deep yellowish brown 
or drab. It is usually in stripes c^r spots. To pro- 
duce it, the printers besmear a block, cut out into 
the figure of the print, with acetate of iron, thick- 
ened with gum or flour; and apply it to the cotton, 
which, after being dried and cleansed in the usual 
manner, is plunged into a potash ley. The quan- 
tity of acetate of iron is always proportioned to the 
depth of the shade. 

Red. — Red is communicated by the same pro- 
cess, only madder is substituted for the bark. 

nine. — The fine light blues which appear so fre- 
quently on printed cottons, are produced by ap- 
pl_>ing to the cloth a block besmeared with a com- 
position, consisting partly of was, which covers 
all those parts of the cloth which remain white. 
The cloth is then dyed in a cold indigo vat; ana 
after it is diy, the wax composition is removed by 
hot water. 

Lilac and brown. — ^Lilac, flea brown, and black- 
ish brown, are given by means of acetite of iron ; 
the quantity of which is always proportioned to the 
deiith of the shade. Fw very deet) colours a littla 

U2 



90 



UNIVERSAI. RECEIPT BOOK. 



sumach is added. The cotton is afterwai'ds 
tiyed in the usiw manner with madder, and then 
bleached. 

Green. — -To twelve quarts of mm-iatic acid, add 
6y degrees one quart of nitrous acid: saturate the 
whole with grain tin, and hoil it in a proper vessel 
till two-thirds Pie evaporated. 

To prepare the indigo for mixing with the solu- 
tion, take nine pounds of indigo, half a pound of 
orange orpiraent, and grind it in about four quarts 
of water, mix it well with the indigo; and grind 
the whole in the usual way. 

To mix the solution of tin with prepared indigo. 

Take two gallons of the indigc prepared as 
above, then stir into it, by degrees, one gallon of 
the solution of tin, neutralized by as much caustic 
alkali as can be added without precipitating the 
tin from the acids. For a lighter shade of green, 
less indigo will be necessary. The goods are to 
oe dipped in the way of dipping China blues; they 
must not, however, be allowed to drain, but moved 
from one vat to another as quickly as possible. 
They are to be cleansed in the usual way, in a sour 
vat of about 150 gallons of water to one gallon of 
sulphuric acid; they hre then to be well washed in 
decoctions of weld, and other yellow colo'ir drugs, 
and are to be branned or bleached till tliey be- 
come white in those parts which are required co- 
lourless. 

To print dove colour and drab. 

Dove colour and drab are given by auetite of 
iron and quercitron bark; the elolh is afterwards 
prepared in the usual manner. 

To print different colours. 

When different colours are to appear in the 
same print, a greater number of operations are 
necessary. Two or more blocks are employed; 
upon each of which, that part of the print only is 
cut, which is to be of some particular colour. 
These are besmeared with different mordants, and 
applied to the cloth, whicli is afterwards dyed as 
usual. Let us suppose, for instance, that these 
blocks are applied to cotton, one witji acetite of 
alumine, another with acetite of iron, a tliird with 
a mixture of those two mordants, and that the cot- 
ton is then dyed with quercitron bark, and bleach- 
ed. The parts impregnated with the mordants 
would have the following colours: — 

Acetite of alumine, yellow. Acetite of iron, 
olive, drab, dove. The mixture, olive green, olive. 

If the part of the yellow is covered over with the 
indigo liquor, applied witli a pencil, it will be 
converte<l into green, iiy the same liquid, blue 
may be given to such parts of the print as re- 
quite it. 

If the cotton is dyed with madder, instead of 
quercitron bark, the print will exhibit the follow- 
ing colours: — 

Acetite of alumine, red. Acetite of iron, brown, 
black. The mixture, purple. 

When a greater number of colovirs are to ap- 
pear; for instance, when those ccmmunicated by 
bark, and those b}' madder are wanted at the same 
time, mordants for parts of tlie pattern are to be 
applied: the cotton then is to be dyed in the mad- 
der bath, and bleached ; then the rest of the mor- 
dants, to fill up the pattern, are added, and the 
cloth is again dyed with quercitron bark, and 
bleached. The second dyeing does not much af- 
fect the madder colours; because the mordants, 
which render them permanent, are already satu- 
rated. The yellow tinge is easily removed by the 
subsequent bleaching. Sometimes a new mor- 
dant is also applied to some of the madder co- 
lours, in consequence of wiiioh, they receive a new 
permanent colour from the hark. After the last 
bleaching, new colours may be added bymeans of 



the indigo liquor. The following table will give 
an idea of the colours which may be given to cot 
ti)n by these processes. 

I. Madder dye. — Acetite of alumine, red. Ace- 
tite of iron, brown, black. Acetite diluted, lilac 
Both mixed, purple. 

II. Black dye. — 'Acetite of alumine, yellow. 
Acetite of iron, dove, drab. Lilac and acetite of 
auimine, olive. Red and acetite of alumine, orange. 

III. Indigo dye. — Indigo, blue. Indigo and yel- 
low, green. 

To prepare a substitute for gum used in calico 
printing. 
Collect half a ton weight of scraps of peits or 
skins, or pieces of rabbit or sheep skins, and boil 
them together for seven or eight hours, in 350 gal- 
lons of water, or until it becomes a strong size. 
Then draw it off, and when cold, weigh it. Warm 
it again, and to every hundred weight, add 4 gal- 
lons of the strongest sweet wort that can he made 
from malt, or 21) pounds weight of sugar. When 
incorpr rated, take it off, and put it into acask for use. 
This substitute for gum may be used by calico 
printers in mixing up nearlv ail kinds of colours. 
By using a sixth part only of gum with it, it will 
also improve the gum, and, be a saving of 200 per 
cent, and without gum, of 400 per cent. It will also 
improve and preserve the paste so much used by 
printers. 

To prepare anattofor dyeing 
Anatto is a colouring fecula of a resinous nature, 
extracted from t!ie seeds of a tree very common in 
the West Indies, and which in height never ex- 
ceeds 15 feet. 

The Indians employ two processes to obtain the 
red fecula of these seeds. They first pound them, 
and mix them with a certain quantity of water, 
v/hich in the course of five or six days favours the 
progress of fermentation. The liquid then becomes 
charged with the colouring part; and the superflu- 
ous moisture is afterwards separated by slow eva- 
poration over the fire, or tiy the heat of the. sun. 

Another method. — This consists in rubbing the 
seeds between the hands in a vessel filled with wa- 
ter. The colouring part is precipitated, and forms 
itself into a mass like a cake of wa.x; but if the red 
fecula, thus detached, is mucii more beautiful than 
in the first process, it is less in quantity. Besides, 
as tlie splendour of it is too bright, the Indians are 
accustomed to weaken it by a iwixJiiwe of red san- 
dal wood. 

Use of anatto. 

The natives of the East India islands used for- 
merly to employ anatto for painting their bodies, 
lite, at present, it is applied, in Europe, to the pur- 
\)0ses of dyeing. It is employed to give the first 
tint to woollen stuffs intended to be dyed red, blue, 
yellow, and green, &c. 

In the art of the varnisher it forms part of tire 
composition of changing varnishes, to give a cold 
colour to the metals to which these varnishes are 
applied. 

To choose anatto. 

It ought to be chosen of a flame colour, brighter 
in the inte^'ior part than on the outside, soft to the 
touch, and of a good consistence. The paste of 
anatto becomes hard in Europe; and it loses somo 
of its odour, which approaches near to that of vio- 
lets. 

To prepare litmus. 

The Canary and Cape de Verd islands produce 
a kind of lichen or moss which yields a violet 
colouring part, when exposed to the contact cf am- 
monia disengaged from urine, in a state of putre- 
faction, by a mixture of lime. When the processes 
are finished it is known by the name of litmus. 

This article is prepared on a large scale at Lon- 



DIEING. 



91 



flon, Paris, and Lyons. In the latter city another 
kind of lichen, which g;rows on the rocks like moss, 
IS employed. 

The ammonia joins the resinous part of the plant, 
tlevelopes its colouring part Mid combines with it. 
In this state the lichen forms a paste of a violet red 
colour, interspersed with whitish spots, which give 
it a marble appearan»e. 

Litmus is employed in dyeing to communicate a 
violet colour to silk and woollen. It is used also 
for colouring the liquor of thermometers. 
To prep^.re bastard saffron. 
The flowers of this plant contain two colouring 
parts: one soluble in water, and which is thrown 
away; the ether soluble in alkaline liquors. The 
latter colouring part becomes tne basis of various 
beautiful shades of cherry colorr. ponceau, rose- 
colour, &c. It is employed for dyeing feathers, 
and constitutes the vegetable red, or Spanish ver- 
milion employed by ladies to heighten tiieir com- 
plexion. 

Carthamus caimot furnish its resinous colouring 
part, provided with all its qualities, until it has 
been deprived of that which is soluble in water. 
For tliis purpose, the dried flowers of the cartha- 
mus are enclosed in a linen bag, and the bag is 
placed in a stream of running water. A man with 
wooden shoes gets upon the bag every eight or ten 
hours, and treads it on the bank until the water ex- 
pressed from it is colourless. 

These moist flowers, after being strongly squeez- 
ed in the bag, are spread out on a piece of canvas 
extended on a frame, placed over a wooden box, 
and covered with five or six per cent, of their 
weiglit of carbonate of soda. Pure water is then 
poured over them; and this process is repeated se- 
veral times, that the alkali may have leisure to be- 
come charged with the colouring part which it 
dissolves. The liquor, when filtered, is of a dirty 
red, and almost brown colour. The colouring part, 
thus held in solution, cannot be employed for co- 
louring bodies until it is free; and to set it at liber- 
ty, the soda must be brought into contact with a 
body whicli has more affinity for it. It is on this 
precipitation, by an intermediate substance, that 
the process for making Spanish vermilion is found- 
ed, as well as all the results arising from the di- 
rect application of this colouring part, in the art of 
dyeing. 

Utility ofslieep^s dung. 
This article is used in dyeing, for the purpose 
of preparing cotton and linen to receive certain 
colours, particularly the red madder and cross- 
wort, which it performs by impregnating the stuffs 
with an animal mucilage, ot which it contains a 
large quantity, and thus assimilating them to wool 
and silk. 

To prepare tvoad. 
This is effected from the leaves of the plant so 
called, by grinding them to a paste, of which balls 
are made, placed in heaps, and occasionally sprink- 
led with water to promote the fermentation: when 
this is finislied the woad is allowed to fall into a 
coarse powder used as a blue dye-stuff". 
To prepare inikgo. 
This dye is derived from the leaves and the 
young shoots of several species of indigo plants, by 
spaking them either in cold water, or still better 
in water kept warm, and at about 160° Fahr. till 
the liquor becomes a deep green; it is then drawn 
oft" and beat or churned till blue flakes appear, 
when lime water is added, the yellow liquor drawn 
off", and the blue sediment dried and formed into 
lumps. 

To prepare carmine. 
Boil one ounce troy of cochineal finely powdered 
m Vi or 14 pints of rain or distilled water, in a tin- 



ned copijer vessel for three minutes, then add 25 
grains of alum, and continue the boiling for two 
minutes longer, and let it cool; draw off the clear 
liquor as soon as it is only blood warm, very care- 
fully into shallow vessels, and put them by, laying 
a sheet of paper over each of them, to keep out the 
dust for a couple of days, by which time the car- 
rai-e will have settled. In case the carmine does 
not separate properly, a few drops of a solution of 
green vitriol will throw it down immedit.'ely. The 
water being drawn off, the carmine is dried in a 
warm stove: the first coarse sediment serves to 
make Florence lake; the water drawn off is liquid 
rouge. 

To obtain a dyeing matter from potato tops. 
Cut oft" the top when it is in flower, an! extract 
the juice, by bruising and pressing it. Linen or 
woollen imbibed in this liquor forty-eight hours, 
will take a brilliant, but solid and permanent yel- 
low colour. If the cloth be afterwards plunged in 
a blue dye, it will acquire a beautiful permanent 
green colour. As to the mode of execution, it 
should pass tlirough the hands of a chemist or skil- 
ful dyer, to derive all the advantages it is capable 
of furnishing. 

2'o print carpets. 
These carpets are made of knitted wool, by 
means of a machine^ they are afterwards pressed 
and receive all the colours and designs wished for. 
These designs, printed on the tissue by means of 
wooden boards, are extremely neat; the colours are 
very brilliant, and resist tiie rubbing extremely 
well, provided they traverse the tissu^ from one 
part to another. 

These new carpets are warm, and have the ad- 
vantage of being cheaper than other carpets; they 
last S.S long, and are not crossed by seams disa- 
greeable to the eye, even on a breadth of from 
twelre to fifteen feet. 

To dye hats. 
The hats should be first strongly galled by boil- 
ing them a long time in a decoction of galls with 
a little logwood, that the dye may penetrate the 
better into their substance; after which a proper 
quantity of vitriol and decoction of logwood, with 
a little verdigris, are added, and the hats continued 
in this mixture for a considerable time. They are 
afterwards put into tresh liquor of logwood, galls, 
vitriol and verdigris; and where the hats are of 
great price, or of a hair which with difficulty takes 
the dye, the same process is repeated a third time. 
For obtaining the most perfect colour, the hair oi 
wool is dyed blue previously to its being formed 
into hats. 

Another method. — Boil 100 pounds of logwood, 
i2 pounds of gum, and 6 pounds of galls, in a pro- 
per quantity of water for some hours; after which, 
about 6 pounds of verdigris and 10 of green vitriol 
are added, and the liquor kept just simmering, or 
of a. heat a little below boiling. Tenor twelve 
dozen of hats are immediately put in, each on its 
block, and kept down by cross bars for about an 
hour and a half; they are then taken out and aired, 
and the same number of others put in their room, 
Tlie two sets of hats are thus dipped and aired al- 
ternately, eight times each; the liquor being re- 
freshed each time with more of the ingredients, hue 
in less quantity than at first. 

To prove the colours of dyea stuffs. 
For crimson, scarlet, flesh-colour, violet, peach 
blossom, all shades of blue, and other colours bor- 
dering on these, dissolve half an ounce of alnnt in 
a pint of water, in an earthen vessel, and into this 
put the eighth of an ounce of the stuff or thread 
that is to be proved; boil the whole for five minutes, 
and wasii it out in clean water. 

For all sorts of yellow, green, madder, red, cin- 



92 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOIv. 



iiamon, and similar colours, bo!l a ouarter of an 
ounce of soap in a pint of water, put in the eighth 
of an ounce of tne stuff to be tried, and boil for 
five minutes. 

For hair brown, Sec. powder an ounce of tartar, 
and boil it in a pint of water, and boil a quarter of 
an ounce of the stuff or thread in the solution for 
five minutes. 



MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS FOR DYE- 
ING, STAINING, &c. 

To turn red hair black. 

Take a pint of tJie liquor of pickled herrings, 
half a pound of lamp-black, and two ounces of the 
rust of iron. Mix and boil them for twenty mi- 
nutes, then strain and rub the liquid well into the 
roots of the hair. 

To change the colour of hair. 

This is done by spreading the'hair to bleacli on 
the grass like linen, after first washing it out in a 
lixivious water. This ley, with the force of the 
sun and air, brings the hair to a perfect whiteness. 
There is also a method of dyeing hair with bis- 
muth, whicli renders such white hair as borders too 
mu(jh U|)on the yellow, of a bright silver colour. 

Hair may be changed from a red, grey, or other 
disagreeable colour, to a brown or deep black, by 
a soiution of silvei-. The liquors, sold under the 
name of hair loaters, are, in fact, no more than 
solutions of silver in aqua-fortis, largely diluted 
with watei , with the addition of ingredients, which 
contribute nothing to their efficacy. The solution 
should be fully saturated with the silver, that there 
may be no more acid in it than is necessary for 
holding the metal dissolved; and besides dilution 
with water, a little spirit of wine may be added for 
the further decomposition of the acid. For dilut- 
ing the solution, distilled water, or pure I'ain-wa- 
ter, must be used; tlie common spring-waters turn- 
mg it milky, and precipitating a part of the dis- 
solved silver. It is to be observed also, that if tiie 
liquor touches the skin, it has the same effect on it 
as 0:1 the matter to be stained, changing the part 
moistened witli it to an indelible black. Hair may 
also be dyed of any colour ii the same manner as 
wool. 

To dye bristles or featJiers grsen. 

Take of verdigris and verditer, each 1 ounce, 
eum water 1 pint; mix them well, and dip the 
bristles or feathers, they having been first soaked 
In hot water, into the said mixture. 

nine. — Take of indigo and risse, each 1 ounce, 
and a piece of alum the size of a hazel nut; put 
them into gum watei-, and dip the materials into ii 
hot, hang them up to drj\ and clap them well that 
they may open, and by ciianging the colours, the 
aforesaid materials may be in this manner dyed of 
any colour; for purple, use lake and indigo; for 
carnation, vermilion and smalt. 

Jied. — Take an ounce of Brazil wood in powder, 
half an ounce of alum, a quarter of an ounce of 
vermilion, and a pint of vinegar, boil them up to a 
moderate thickness, and dip the bristles or feathers, 
they having been first soaked in hot water, into the 
said mixture. 

To dy; or colour horse hair. 

Steep in water wherein a small quantity of tur- 
pentine has been boiled for the space of two hours; 
then having prepared the colours very hot, boil the 
hair therein, and any colour, black excepted, will 
take, but that will only take a dark red or dark blue, 
Sec. 

To dye gloves. 

Take tne colour suitable for tlie occasion; if 
dark take Spanish brownand black earth; if lighter, 



yellow and whiting; and so on with other colours- 
mix theiTQ with a moderate fire, daub the glove* 
over with the colour wet, and let them hang till 
they are dry, then beat out the superfluity of the 
co-lour, and smooth them over wiJi a stretching o? 
sleeking stick, reducing them to their proper sk "pe. 
1 '0 dye -white gloves purple. 

Boil four ounces of logwood aiid two ounces of 
rocha alum in three pints of soft Avater till half 
wasted. Let the liquor stand to cool after strain- 
ing. Let the gloves be nicely mended, then with 
a brush I'ub them ovei', and when dry repeat it. 
Twice is sufficient, unless the colour is to be very 
dark; when dry, rub off the loose dye with a coarse 
cloth; beat up the white of an egg, and with a 
sponge rub it over the leather. The dye will stain 
the hands; hut wetting them with vinegar before 
they are washed will take it offi 

To dye gloves resembling Z,ime^^ck. 

Brown, or tan colours, are readily imparted to 
leather gloves, by the following simple process. 
Steep saffron in boiling soft water for about twelve 
hours: then having slif::htly sewed up the tops of 
the gloves to pveveut the dye staining the insides, 
wet them over with a sponge or soft brush dipped 
into tlie liquid. The quantity of safi"ron as well as 
of water will of course depend on how much dye 
may be wanted, and their relative proportions on 
tlie depth of colour I'equired. A common tea-cup 
will contain, sufficient in quantity for a single pair 
of gloves. 

To tinge bone and wory red. 

Boil shavings of scarlet cloth in water. When 
it begins to boil, tiu'ow in a quarter of a pound of 
ashes made from the dregs of wine, wiiicli will ex- 
tract the colour; then throw iu a little roche alum 
to clear it, and pass the water tnrough a linen cloth. 
Steep the ivor> or bone in uipia-fortis, and put into 
the water. If it is necessary to leave white spots, 
cover the place destined for them with wax. 

Black. — Take a double handful of lime, and 
slack it by sprinkling it with water; stir it up to- 
gether, let it settle ten minutes, and pour the wa- 
ter into a pan. Then take the ivory, &c. and steep 
it in the lime water 24 hours, after which, boil it 
in strong alum water 1 hour, and dry it in the air. 

Another method. — Steep the bone or ivory dur- 
ing five or six days, in water ot g-lls, with ashes 
made with dried dregs of wine and arsenic; then 
give it two or three layers of the same black, with 
which i)lum-tree is blackened, in order to imitate 
ebony. 

Or dissolve silver in aqua-fortis, and put into it 
a little rose-water. Rub the ivory with this, and 
allow it to dry in t';e sun. 

Green. — Tiiis colour is imparted to ivory or hone 
by a solution of copper or verdigris in aqua-fortis, 
or by grinding together two parts of verdigris, and 
one of sal-ammoniac. 

Purple. — Take four ounces of aqua-regia, and 
one of sal-ammoniac. 

Yellow. — Ivory, bone, horn, &c. may be stained 
yellow, by previously boiling them in a solution of 
one pound of alum, in two quarts of water, then 
immersing them for half an hour in a liquor jue- 
pared by boiling lialf a pound of turmeric in a gal- 
lon of water, until it be reduced to thi'ee quai'ts, 
and afterwards plunging the coloured substance 
into ahim water. 

Blue. — All bony matters m.ay he stained blue, 
by first tinging them with green, and then dipping 
tiiem into a hot and strong solution of pearl-ashes. 
To prepare wood for dyeing. 

The wood mostly used to dye black is pear-tree, 
holl/, and beach, all of whicli take a beautiful black 
colour. Do not use wood tliat has been long cut, 
or aged, but let it be as fresh as possible. Aftet 



DYEING. 



93 



the veneers have had one Iiour's boiling, and then 
taken outtocool, the colour is always much stronsjer. 
When dyed, they should be dried in the air, and 
not by the fire, nor in a kiln of pny kind, as artiii- 
cial heat tends to desti'oy the colour. 

In order to dye blue, grec-n, red or othor colours, 
take clear holly. Put the veneers into a box or 
t!-on°-h, with clef.r water, sndl'it them remain Ibur 
or five davs, changing the water once or twice as 
occasion m:iy require: the water will clear the 
wood of slime, &c. Let them dry about twelve 
hours before they are put into the dye; by observ- 
ing this, the colour will strike quicker, and be of 
a brigliter hue. 

To prepare turnsole for staining xuoorl. 

Boil four ounces of turnsole in a pint and a half 
of water, in which lime has been shiked. 
To stain oak a rauhogany colour. 

Boil together Brazil wood and Roman alum, and 
oefore it is applied to the wood, a little potasli is to 
De added to it. A suitable varnish for wood, thus 
tinged, may be made by dissolving amber in oil of 
turpentine, mixed v'ith a small portion of linseed 
oil. 

Eboni,-hlack. — Steep the wood for two or three 
days in luke-warra water, in which a little alum 
has been dissolved ; then put a handful of log- 
wood, cut small, into a pint of water, and boil it 
down to less than half a iiint. It a little indigo is 
added, the colour will be more '..'eautiful. Spread 
a layer of this liquor quite hot on the wood with a 
pencil, whicli will give it a violet colour. When 
it is dry, spread on another layer; dry it again, and 
give it a third: then boil verdigris at discretion in 
its own vinegar, and S[)rea('. a layer of it on the 
wood: when it is dry, rub it with a brush, and then 
with oiled chamois skin. This gives a fine black, 
and imitates perfectly tiie colour of ebony. 

Jlnotlwr method. — After forming the wood into 
the destined figure, rub it with aqua-fortis a little 
diluted. Small thi-eads of wood will rise in the 
drying, which is to be rubbed ofF with pumice- 
stone. Repeat this process again, and then rub the 
wood with the following composition; put into a 
glazed earthen vessel a pint of strong vinegar, two 
ounces of fine iron filings, and half a pound of 
pounded galls, and allow them to infuse for three 
or fo'.r hours on hot cinders. At the end of this 
time augment the fire, and pour into the vessel four 
ounces of copperas (sulphate of iron), and a chopin 
of water having half an ounce of borax and as much 
indigo dissolved in it; and make the whole boil till 
a froth rises. Rub several layers of this upon the 
wood; and, wlien it is dry, polish it with leather 
on which a little tripoU has been put. 

To slain beech-ivood a mahcq-any colour. 

Break t.vo oimces of dragon's blood in pieces, 
and put them into a quait of rectified spirit of wine; 
let tiie bottle stand in a warm place, and shake it 
frequently. When dissolved it is fit for use. 

Another method. — Boil ore pound of logwood in 
four quarts of water, and add a double hatful of 
walnut peeling. Boil it up ag?in, take out the chips, 
add a pint of the best vinegar, and it will be fit for 
use. 

To stain musical instnanents. 

Crimson. — Boil one pound of ground Brazil- 
wood in three quarts of water for an hour; strain it, 
and add half an ounce of cochineal; boil it again 
for half an hour gently, and it will be fit for use. 

Purple. — Boil a pound of chip logwood in three 
quarts of water for an hour; then add foui' ounces 
of pear!-ash, and two ounces of indigo pounded. 
To stain box-tvood brown. 

Hold the work to the fije, that it may receive a 
gentle warmth; then take aqua-fortis, and with a 



feather pass it over the work, till it cnanges to a 
fine brown. Then oil and polish it. 
To dye ruood a eilver grey. 

Let not the veneers be too dry; when put into 
t)ie copper, pour hot iron liquor (acetate of iron) 
over them, and add one poui\d of chip-logwooa 
with two ounces of bruised nut-gaUs. Then boil 
up another pot of'iron liquor to supply the copper, 
'leeping the veneers covered and boiling two hours 
a i!:iy, until thoroughly penetrated. 

Bright ysllotu.—K very small bit of aloes put 
inlo the varnish, will make tVie wood of a good yel- 
low colour. 

Anolhsr method. — Reduce four pounds of the 
roots of barberiy, by sawing, into dust, which put in a 
copper or brass pan, add four ounces of turmeric, 
to which put four gallons of water, then put in as 
many holly veneers as the liquor will cover; boil 
theni together for three hours, often turning them. 
When ."ool, add two ounces of aqua fortis, and the 
dye will stn!:e through much sooner. 

' Bright green. — Proceed as before to produce a 
yellow; but instend of aqua fortis, add as much of 
the vitrio'.ated in^ligo as will produce the desired 
colour. 

Another method.— To three i^ints of the strongest 
vinegar, add four ounces of the best verdigris, 
ground fine, half an ounce of sap-green, and half 
an ounce of indigo. Proceed in straining t" before. 

Bright red.— To two pounds of genuine Brazil- 
dust, add 4 gallons of water, put in as many ve- 
neers as the liquor will well cover, boil thera for 
three hours, and let them cool; then add two oun- 
ces of alum, and two ounces of aqua fortis, and 
keep it luke-warm until it has struck through. 

Purple.— To two pounds of chip log-wood, and 
half a pound of Brazil-dust, add four gallons of 
water. Put in the veneeis, and boil them well; 
then add six ounces of pearl-ash and two ounces 
of alum; let them boil two or three hours everv 
day, till the colour has struck through. 

'Fine blue.—lnto a pound of oil of vitriol in a 
glass bottle, put four ounces of indigo, and pro- 
ceed as before directed. 

To stain paper or parchment. 

FeUo-zv. — 'Paper may be stained a beautiful yel- 
low by the tincture of turmeric formed by infusing 
an ounce or more of the root, powdered, in a pint 
of spirit of wine. This may be made to give any 
tint of yellow, from the lightest straw to the full 
colour, called French yellow, and will he equRl in 
brightness even to the best dyed silks. If yellow 
be wanted of a warmer, or redder cast, anatto, or 
dragon's blood, must be added. The best manner 
of using these, and the fcllowing tinctures, is to 
spread them even on the paper, or parchment, by 
means of a broad brush, in the manner of varnish. 

Crimson. — A very fine crimson stain ma}- be 
given to paper by a tincture of the Indian lake, 
which may be made by ir fusing the lake soroe days 
in spirit of wine, and then pouring oft'the tincture 
from the dregs. It may be stained red by red ink. 
It may also be stained of a scarlet hu<5 by the tirc- 
ture of dragon's blood in spirit of wine, but this 
will not he bright. 

Green. — Paper or pai'chment may he stained 
green, by the solution of verdigris in vinegar, or 
by the crystals of verdigris dissolved in water. 

Orange. — Stain the paper or parchment first of 
a full yellow, by means of the tincture of turmeric; 
then brush it over with a solution of fixed alkaline 
salt, made by dissolving half an ounce of pearl- 
ashes, or salt of tartar, "in a quart of water, and fil- 
tering the solution. 

Purple. — Paper or parchment may be stained 
purple, by archil, or by the tincture of logwood. 



94 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



Tlie juice of ripe privet berries expressed will 
likewise give a purple dye. 

To marble the edges of books or paper. 

Dissolve four ounces of gum arable in two quarts 
of clear water; then provide several colours mixed 
with- water in pots or shells, and with pencils pe- 
culiar to each colour, sprinkle them by way of in- 
termixture upon the ijum-water, which must be 
put into a trough, or some broad vessel; then with 
a stick curl them or draw them out in streaks, to 
as much variety as required. Having done this, 
hold the book or books close together, and only 
dip the edges in, on the top of the water and co- 
lours very lightly; which done, take them off, and 
the plain impression of the colours in mixture will 
be upon the leaves; doing as well the end as the 
front of the books the same manner. 

To marble the covers of books. 

This is performed by forming clouds with aqua 
fortis, or spirit of vitriol, mixed with ink, and af- 
terwards glazing the covers. 

To colour vellum green. 

Take half a pint of the best white wine vinegar, 
an ounce of verdigris, and half an ounce of sap 
green; dissolve them in the vinegar for a few days, 
having been heated by the fire. Shake the bottle 
frequently before it is used. 

Wash the vellum over with weak potash water, 
and whja dry, colour it with the green three or 
four times, till it has a good colour: when dry, 
wash it over with thin paste water, to give the vel- 
lum a gloss. 

To black the edges of paper. 

Mix black lead with ink, and when the paper is 
cut, colour it thinly over with black ink, with a 
piece of fine cloth; rub on the black lead, cover- 
ing every part; take the dog's-tooth, and burnisli 
the edge till it becomes well polished. 

When the edge of the paper, after cutting, ap- 
pears rather rough, scrape it over with a piece of 
glass or an iron scraper, with a flat edge. 
To sprinkle the edges of books, &c. 

The brushes used for book-edges, must be made 
of Russia hogs' bristles, of good thickness, tied 
round with cord, glued at the thick end, and half 
covered with a piece of leather: when dry, tie the 
brush again with waxed cord, within half an inch 
of the soft part of it, and cut it very smooth and 
even. Brushes made after this manner are pre- 
ferable to those with a handle. 

Prepare the colour in a cup; dip in the brusli 
till it is charged, and then press it out till it will 
drop no longer. The book must be screwed tight 
in the cutting press: hold the brush in the left 
hand, and, with a folding-stick in the right, rub it 
over the brush, which will cause the colour to 
sprinkle finely on the edges. The brush mu?* be 
moved up and down over the edge, as you sprinkle, 
60 have it regular on every part. After the sprink- 



ling is done, the brushes should be carefully wash' 
ed in water, particularly after sprinkling blue, 
which will otherwise soon destro}' the brush. 
To dye or stain horn tortoise-shell colour. 

The horn to be dyed must be first pressed into 
proper plates, scales, or other flat form, and the 
following mixture prepared: take. of quick-lime 
two parts, and litharge one part, temper tiiem to- 
gether to the consistence of a soft paste, with soap- 
ley. Put this paste over all the parts of the horn, 
except such as are proper to be left transparent, in 
order to give it a near lesemblance to the tortoise- 
shell. Tlie horn must remain in this manner, co- 
vered with the paste, till it is thoroughly dry; 
when, the paste being brushed off", the horn will 
be found partly opaque and partly transparent, in 
the manner of tortoise-shell, and when put ov\;r a 
foil of die kind of lattern called orsedue, will be 
scarcely distinguishable from it. It i-equires some 
degree of fancy and judgment to dispose of the 
paste in such a manner as to form a variety oi 
transparent parts, of different magnitudes and 
figures, to look like the effect of nature: and it will 
be an improvement to add semi-transparent parts, 
which may be done by mixing whiting with some 
of the paste, to weaken its operation in particular 
places, by which spots of a reddish-brown will be 
produced, which, if properly interspersed, espe- 
cially on the edges of the dark parts, will greatly 
increase the beauty of the work, and its similitude 
to real tortoise-shell. 

Jlnother method. — Take an equal quantity of 
quick-lime and red lead, and mix it up witli strong 
soap lees. Lay it on the horn with a small brush 
like the mottle in tortoise-shell. When dry, re- 
peat the same two or three times. 

To dye horns of diffei^ent colours. 

Black is performed by steeping brass in aqua 
fortis tili it is turned green: with this the horn is 
to be washed once or twice, and then put into a 
warmed decoction of logwood and water. 

Green is begun by boiling it, &c. in alum-water, 
then with verdigris, ammoniac, and white wine I 
vinegar, keeping it hot therein till sufliciently I 
green. 

Red is begun by boiling it in alum water, then 
with verdigris, ammoniac, and finished by decoc- 
tion in a liquor compounded of quick-lime steep- 
ed in rain-water, strained, and to every pint an 
ounce of Brazil wood added. In this decoction the 
horns are to be boiled till sufficiently red. 

Horns receive a deep black stain from solution 
of silver. It ought to be diluted to such a degree 
as not sensibly to corrode the subject, and applied 
two or three times if necessary, at consideiable 
intervals, the matter being exposed as much as 
possible to the sun, to hasten the appearance and 
deepening of the colour. 



BXtEAOHINa AND SCOURXN6. 



To bleach cloths, &c. 
The mode of bleaching which least injures the 
texture of cloth formed of vegetable substances, is 
that effected by merely exposing it in a moistened 
state to the atmosphere, after having been steeped in 
a solution of potash or soda, but the length of time 



and other inconveniences attending this process 
lead to the use of more active chemical operations. 
It is by the combination of oxygen with the co- 
louring matter of the cloth, that it is deprived of 
its hue, and the different processes employed must 
be adapted to prepare it for this combination, and 



BLEACHING AND SCOURING. 



95 



render it as perfect as possible without destroying 
Its texture, an effect which, however, must neces- 
sarily ensue in a greater or less ueg^ree from the 
union of oxvgeii with all bodies. The operation 
of bleaching requires four dist-nct processes. First, 
to remove the spittle with which the threads are 
covered in the operation of s|)inning, and what is 
called the weaver's dressing. This may b^ effected 
by soaking the cloth for some ho^u'S in warru wa- 
ter, and liien boilijig it in an alkaline ley, prepared 
with 20 parts of water, and one part of the potash 
sold for tliis purpose, rendered more active by 
being mixed with one-third of lime. After it has 
been boiled for some hours in this solution, it is to 
be well waslied with water, and then exposed to 
the second process — the action of oxygen, which is> 
best applied by means of the oxyimiriate of Inne, 
sold ready prepared for this purpose. The solu- 
tion oi oxy muriate of lime must be if such strength 
as nearly to destroy the colour of a solution of in- 
digo in water, slightly acidulated with sulplmric 
acid. The cloth is to be alternately steeped u\ this 
liquor, avid a solution (made as lefore directed,) 
four or five times, using fresh liquor at each pro- 
cess. It is then to be well rubbed and waslied 
with soft soap' and water, whicli prepares it for the 
last process. 

The steeping is in a weak solution of sulphuric 
acid, and from 60 to 100 parts of water, the strength 
being thus varied according to the texture of the 
cloth. This dissolves the remaining colouring 
matter which had resisted the action of alkali, and 
the oxymurirtte of lime, as well us a small quantity 
of iron contained in all vegetable matter. The 
cloth is then to be exposed to the air for some days, 
and watered, to carry oft" any remains of the acids, 
and remove the unpleasant odour it acquires from 
the oxymuriate of lime and potash. 

To bleach linen, &c. by oxy muriatic acid. 

To ascertain the strength of this acid for bleach- 
ing, a solution of indigo in the sulphuric acid is 
employed. The colour of this is destroyed by the 
oxygenated muriatic acid; according to tlie quan- 
tity of it that can be discoloured by a given quan- 
tity of the liquor, its strength is known. 

In this country, machinery is employed forrins- 
ing and beating; the apparatus must be arranged 
according to the objects to be bleached; the skeins 
of thread must be suspended in the tub destined 
for them, and the cloth must be rolled upon reels 
in the apparatus. When every thing is thus dis- 
posed, the tubs are filled with oxygenated muriatic 
acid, by introducing a funnel, which descends to 
the bottom of the tub, in order to prevent the dis- 
persion of the gas. The cloth is wound on the 
frame work on which the skeins are suspended, is 
turned several times, until it is judged, by taking 
out a small quantity of the liquor from time to 
time, and tiying it by the test of the solution of 
indigo, thai it is sufficiently exhausted. The 
weakened liquor is then drawn off, and may be 
again employed for a new saturation. 

To bleach by oxymuriate of lime. 

To cause a large quantity of lime to combine 
with the oxymuriatic gas, the lime is mechanically 
suspended in the water, into which the gas is made 
to pass, and agitated, so as to present fresh matter 
to the gas. By this means the oxym-iriate of lime 
isformedin a very convenient manner; itisdissolv- 
ed in water, and used as a bleaching liquor. ; 

This liquor is found to be preferable to the oxy- | 
genated muriatic acid and potass. At the great I 
bleach-field in Ireland, four loys of potass are ap- I 
plied alternately with four weeks' exposure on the 
grass, two immersions in the oxygenated muriate | 
of lime, a ley of potash between the two, and the } 
exposure cf a week on the grass between each ley . 



and the immersions. During summer, two leys 
and fifteen days' exposure are sufficient to prepare 
cloth for the oxygenated muriate; the three alter- 
nate leys, with immersions in the liquor, will be 
sufficient to complete the bleaching: nothing then 
will be necessary, but io wind the cloth tlirough 
tiie sulphuric acid. 

The oxygenated muriatic acitl gas may also be 
combined with lime in a dry stale, or the water 
may be evaporated, when it is employed for the for^ 
mation of oxyniuriates, which may tlien be very 
conveniently transported to any distance witlioiit 
injury to its detrersive power. 

To prepare the sulphwet of lime. 

Take of sulphur or brimstone, in fine powder, 
four pounds; lime, well slaked and sifted, twenty 
pounds; water, sixteen gallon,'?: tliese are to he 
well mixed, and boiled for about half an hour in 
an iron vessel, stirring them briskly from tin;e to 
time. Soon aftej- the agitation of boiling is over, 
the solution of the sulphuret of lime clears, and 
may be drawn oft' free from the insoluble mattei, 
which is considerable, and which rests upon the 
bottom of the boiler. The liquor, in this state, is 
pretty nearly the colour of small beer, but not 
quite so transparent. 

'Jo bleach by sulphuret of lime. 

Sixteen gallons of fresh water are afterwards to 
be poured upon tlie insoluble dregs in the boiler,, 
in order to separate the whole of the sulphuret 
from them. When this clears (lieing previously 
well agitated), it is also to be drawn off" and mixed 
with the fi. St liquor; to these again, 33 gallons more 
of water may be added, whicli will reduce the li- 
(juor to a proper stsndard for steeping the cloth. 
Here we have (an allowance being made for eva- 
poration, and for the quantity retained in the dregs) 
sixty gallons of liquor from four pounds of brim- 
stone. 

When linen is freed from the weaver's dressiiig, 
it is to be steeped in tlie solutio.n of sulpliuret of 
lime (])rep,ired as above) for about twelve or eight- 
een hours, then taken out and very well washed. 
When dry, it is to be steeped in tlie oxynmriale of 
lime for twelve or fourteen hours, and then washed 
and dried. This process is to be repeated six times, 
that is, by six alternate immersions in each liquor, 
which has been found to whiten the linen. 

Steam has been lately employed for bleaching 
with grek",. success in France. The process wa» 
brought from the Levant. Chapel first made it 
known to the public. 

To bleach cloth in this manner, it must be im- 
mersed in a sliglit alkaline caustic liquor, and 
placed in a chamber constructed over a boiler, into 
which is put the alkaline ley which is to be raised 
into steam. After the fire has been lighted, and 
the cloth has I'emained exposed to the action of the 
steam for a sufficient length of time, it is taken out. 
and immersed in tlie oxygenated muriate of lime, 
and afterwards exposed for two or tliree days on 
the grass. This operation, which is very expedi- 
tious, will be sufficient for cotton: but if linen cloth 
should retain a yellow tint, a second alkaline caus- 
tic vapour-bath, and two or three days on the grass, 
will be sufficient to give it the necessary degree of 
Avhiteness. 

To bleafJi by alkalized steam. 

In the process of bleaching by steam, the high 
temperature swells up the fibres of the thread or 
cloth; the pui-e alkali which rises with the elastic 
fluid, seizes with avidity on the colouring matter; 
and seldom does the tissue of the flax or hemp re- 
sist the penetrating effect of this vapour-bath. The 
whole matter, therefore, by which they are colour- 
ed, is attacked and decomposed by this single ope- 
ration; apd even if a part of it has been able to resist. 



9G 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK, 



nothing more is necessary but to repeat the opera- 
tiovi, after a previous immersion and exposure on 
the grass, to ensure its complete effect. The alkali 
even appears to have a much livelier and more caus- 
tic action, when it is combined with caloric, than 
in ordinary leys, where the temperature never rises 
abrve 162 uegrees of Fahrenheit. By making the 
cloth, or thi'ead, pass through the ley of oxygen- 
ated munate of lime, an union is effected between 
the solution and the carbon, arising from the ex- 
tracto-mucous matter of the flax; carbonic acid is 
formed; the Avater even, in which this new com- 
pound is diluted, concurs to promote the combina- 
tion: if the cloth is then exposed on the grass, the 
carbonic acid is dissipated, and the cloth is bleached. 
To bleach cotton. 

The first operation consists in scouring it in a 
slight alkaline solution; or what is better, by ex- 
posure to steam. It is afterwards put into a basket, 
and rinsed in running water. The immersion of 
cotton in an alkaline ley, however it may be r'used, 
always leaves with it an eartliy deposit. It is well 
known that cotton bears the action of acids better 
than hemp or fiax; that time is even necessary be- 
fore the action of them can be prejudicial to it; and 
by taking advantage of this valuable property in 
regard to bleaching, means have been found to free 
it from the earthy deposit, by pressing down the 
cotton in a very weak solution of sulphuric acid, 
and afterwards removing the acid by washing, lest 
too long remaining in it should destroy the cotton. 
'J'o bleack wool. 

The first kind of bleaching to which wool is sub- 
jected, is to free it from grease. This operation 
is called scouring. In mp.nufactories, it is gene- 
rally performed hy an araraoniacal ley, formed of 
five measures of river water and one of stale urine; 
the wool is immersed for about 20 minutes in a 
bath of this mixture, heated to fifty-six degrees; it 
is then taken out, suffered to drain, and then rinsed 
in nmning water: this manipulatio:' softens the 
wool, and gives it the first degree of whiteness: it 
is then repeated a second, and even a third time, 
after which the wool is fit to be employed. In some 
places, scouring is performed with water slightly 
impregnated with soap; and, indeed, for valuable 
articles, this process is preferable, but it is too ex- 
pensive for articles of less value. 

Sulphurous acid gas unites vevy easily with wa- 
ter, and in this combination it may be employed 
for bleaching wool and silk. 

To prepare the siilphurous add. 

The most economical method is, to decompose 
sulphuric acid, by the mixture of any combustible 
matter capable of taking from it any pai-t of its 
Dxygen. In exact experiments of the laboratory, 
when the chemist is desirous of having it in great 
purity, it is obtained by means of metallic sub- 
stances, and particularly by mercurj'; but for the 
purpose of which we are treating, v/here great 
economy is required, we shouM recommend the 
most common substances. Take chopped straw, 
or saw dust, and introduce it into a matrass: pour 
over it sulphuric acid, applying at the same time 
heat, and there will be disengi.ged sulphurous acid 
gas, which may be combined with water in an ap- 
paratus. 

The pieces are rolled upon the reels, and are 
drawn through the sulphurous acid by turning 
them, until it is observed that the whiteaess is suf- 
ficiently bright. They are then taken out, and 
are left to drain on a bench covered with cloth, 
lest they should be stained in consequence of the 
decomposition of the wood by the sulphurous 
acid; tliey are next washed in river water, and 
Spanish white is employed, if it should be judged 
necessary. This operation is performed by pass- [ 



ing the pieces tlu'o'agh a tub of clear water, in 
in which about eight pounds of Spanish-white has 
been dissolved. To obtain a fine whiteness, thf 
stuffs, in general, are twice sulphured. Accord- 
ing to this process, one immersion, and i-ecling 
two or three houi-s, are sufficient. Azuring, oi 
Islueing, is performed by throwing into the Span- 
ish-white liquor a solution of one part of Prussian 
blue i;o 400 parts of water; shaking the cloth in 
the liquid, and reeling it rapidly. The operation 
is terminated by a slight washing with soap, to 
give softness and pliability to the stc.ffs. 
To full cloths, -woollens, &c. 
The method of fulling woollen stuffs, with soap, 
is this: a coloured cloth, of about 45 ells, is to be 
laid in the usual manner in the trough of a fulling 
mill, without first soaking it in water, as is com- 
monly practised in many places. To full this 
trough of cloth, 15 pounds of soap are required, 
one-half of which is to ba melted in two pails of 
river, or spring water, made as hot as the hand 
can well bear it. This solution is to be poured by 
little and little upon the cloth, in pror>ortion a?^ it 
is laid in the tiuugh; after which it is to be taken 
out and stretcr.e;'.. This done, the cloth is imme- 
diately returneu into the same trough without any 
new soap, and there fulled for two hours more. 
Then taken out it is wrung vrell, to express all the 
grease and filth. After the second fulling, the re- 
mainder of the soap is dissolved in as in the for- 
mer, and cast four differmic times on the cloth, re- 
membering to take out the cloth every two hours 
to stretch it, and undo the plaits and wrinkles it 
has acquired in the trough. When sufficiently full- 
ed, and brought to the quality and tliickness re- 
quired, scour it in hot water, keeping it in the 
trough till it is quite clean. As to white cloths, 
as these full more easily and in less time than 
coloured ones, a third part of the soap may be 
spared. 

To prepare an improvtd bleaching liquor. 
This is effected by a dissolution in water of the 
oxygenated muriates of calcareous earth, barytes, 
strontites, or magnesia. The earths should be 
prepared in the dry way, by bringing them in a 
solid form, in powder, or iu paste, in contact with 
the oxygenated muriatic acid gas. So prepared, 
dissohe them in water, and apply them to the sub- 
stances required to be bleached. By this mode, co- 
lours may be removed from linen, cotton, and ve- 
getable and animal substances. 

Another. — Take of salts, 8 parts, sulphuric acid, 
5 do. black oxide of manganese, 3 do. water, 3 do. 
To bleach siUc. 
Take a solution of caustic soda, so weak as to 
make only a fourth of a degree, at most, of the 
areometer for salts, and fill with it the boiler of 
the apparatus for bleaching with steam. Charge 
the frames with skeins of raw silk, and place them 
in the appai'atus until it is full; Ih^n close the door, 
and make the solution boil. Having continued 
the ebullition for twelve hours, slacken the fire, 
and open the door of the apparatus. The heat of 
the steam, Y^hich is alwavs above 250 degrees, will 
have been sufficient to free the silk from the gum, 
and to scour it. Wash the skeins in warm water; 
and having wrung them, place them again on the 
trames in the apparatus, to undergo a second boil- 
ing. Then wash them several times in water, and 
immerse them ic water somewhat soapy, to give 
them a little softness. Notwithstanding the white- 
ness which silk acquires by these, different opera- 
tions, it must be carried to a higher degree ot 
splendour by exposing it to the action of sulphyr- 
ous acid gas, in a close chamber, or by immersing 
it in sulphurous acid, as before recomiaended foi 
wool. 



BLEACHING AND SCOURING. 



97 



To bkach prints and printed books. 

Simple immersion in oxygenated muriatic aciil, 
!etting tlie aiticle remain in it a longer or shorter 
space of time, according to the strength of tlie li- 
C|Uor, will be suflficienC to whiten an engraving: if 
it is required to whiten the paper of a bound book, 
as it is necessary that all the leaves should be 
moistened by tiie acid, care must be taken to open 
the book well, and lo make the boards rest on the 
edge of the vessel, in such a manner that the pa- 
per alone shall be dipped in the litjuid; the lea res 
must be separated from each other, in order that 
they maybe equally moistened on both sides. 
Jfare''s method of bleach.ing sliell-lac. 

Dissolve in an iron kettle one part of pearl ash 
in about eight parts of v/nter, add one part of shell 
or seed lac, and lieat the whole to ebullition. 
When the, lac is dissolved cool the solution and 
impregnate it v/ith chlorine, till the lac is all pre- 
cipitated. 

1\ tvash chintz. 

Take two pounds of rice, boil it in two gallons 
of waier till soft; then pour the whole into a tub; 
let it stand till about the warmth in general used for 
coloured linens; then put the chintz in, and use 
the rice instead of soap; wash -t in tliis, till the 
dirt appears to be out, then boil the same quantity 
as above, but strain tlie rice from the water, and 
mix it in warm clear w;.ter. Wash in this till 
quite clean; afterwards rinse it in the water which 
the rice has been boiled in, and this will answer 
the end of starch, and no dew will aKect it. If a 
gov-'n, it must be taken to pieces, and vi ben dried 
be careful to l:ang it as smooth as possible; — after 
U is diy, rub it with a sle'^k stone, but use no iro.i. 
V'o -maslifine lace or [wen. 

Take a gallon of furze blossoms and burn them 
to ashos, then boil them in six q-uarts of soft water; 
this, when fine, use in washing with the suds, as 
occasion requires, and the linen, &c. will not only 
be exceedingly while, but it is dcnk;. with half the 
soap, and little trouble. 

To clean black and white sarcenets. 

Lay these smooth and even upon a board, spread 
\ little soap over the dirty places; then make a 
lather with Castille soap, and with a common 
brush, dip it in, pass it over the long way, and re- 
peat it in this manner, till one side is sufficiently 
scoured, use the other in the same manner; then 
put it into hot water, and there let it lie, till you 
have prepared some cold m ater, wherein a small 
quantity of gum arable has been dissolved. Now, 
rinse them well, take them out and fold them, 
pressin-^ out the water with the hands on tlie 
board, and keeping thsm under the hands till they 
are dry; at which time, have brimstone ready to dry 
them over, till they are ready for smoothing, which 
must be dene on the right side, with a moderate 
hot iron. 

V'o wash and stain tiffanies. 

Let the be' as of the tift'anies be at first only a 
little soaped, then having a lather of Sf)ap, put 
them into it hot, and wash them very gently for 
tear they should be crumpled: and when they are 
clean, rinse them in warm water, in which a little 
gum arable has been dissolved, keeping them from 
the air as much as possible; then add a lump of 
starch, wet the tifi'auies with a soft linen rag, and 
fold them up in a clean cloth, pressing them till 
they are near dry; after which jut them near the 
fire, and finish the drying over brimstone; then 
shape them properly by gently ironing them,' 
7'o viash and starch lawns. 

Lawns may be done in the same manner as the 

former, only observe to iron them on the wrong 

«ide, and use gum arable water instead of 

Jtareh, and, according to what has been directed 

N 



for sarcenets, any coloured silks maj" be starched, 
abating or augmenting tlie gum water, as may be 
thought fit, according to the stillness intended. 
'J'o clean buff coloured cloth. 

Take tobacco-pipe clay, and mix it with water 
till it is as thick as lime-water used for white- 
washing rooms; spread this over the cloth, and 
when it is dry, rub it off with a brush, and the 
cloth will look extremely well. 

I'o make saponace its ley for ivashing. 

Hoil together in a suflicieiit quantity of watei, a 
gallon of good wood-ashes, and two or three hands- 
tul of fresh burnt lime. Leave the lixivium at 
rest, till the extraneous matters have been di'[>osit- 
ed at the bottom, ur thrown to the surface to be 
skimmed off. Then draw off the pure lixivium, 
add to it oil, lo about a thirtieth or fortieth part of 
its own quantity. The mixture will be a liquor 
white as milk, capable of frotiiing like soap-v/ater, 
and in dilution with water, perfectly fit to commu- 
nicate sufficient whiteness to linen. This liquor 
may be prei>ared from wood-ashes of all sorts, and 
from rancid grease, oil, or butter. It is therefore 
highly worthy the attention of the economist. 
When the ashes are suspected to be unusually de- 
ficient in alkali, a small addition of pulverized 
potash or soda may be made to the lixivium. 
To clean and starch point lace. 

Fix the lace in a prepared tent, draw it straight, 
make a warm lather of Castille soap, and, with a 
fine brush dipped in, rub over the point gently; and 
when it is clean on one side, do the same to the 
other; then throw some clean water on it, in which 
a little alum has been dissolved, to take oft'ihe suds, 
and having some thin starch, go over with the same 
on the wrong side, and iron it on the same side 
when dry, then 07 en it with a bodkin, and set it in 
order. 

To clean point lace, if not very dirty, without 
washing; fix it in a teiit as the former, and go over 
with fine bi-ead, the crust being pared off, and when 
it is done, dust out the 'rumbs, 8cc. 
To clean -white veils. 

Put the veil in a solution of white soap, and iei 
it simmer a. quarter of an hour. Squeeze it in some 
warm water and soap, till quite clean. Rinse it 
from soap, and then in clean cold water, in which 
is a drop of liquid blue. Then pour boiling water 
upon a tea-spoonful of starch, run the veil through 
this, and clear it well, by clapping it. Afterwards 
pin it out, keeping the edges straight and even. 
To clean black veils. 

Pass them through a warm liquor of bullock's 

gall ;!nd water; rinse in cold water; then take a 

snic^Il piece of glue, pour boiling water on it, and 

pass the veil through it; clap it, and frame it to dry. 

7^0 clean ivhite sulin andjioxuered silks. 

Mix siiled stale bread crumbs with powder blue, 
and 111b it thoroughly all over, then shake it well, 
and dust it with clean soft clo'hs. Afterwards, 
wheie there are any gold or silver flowers, take a 
piece of ciimson ingrain velvet, rub the' fiowers 
with it, which will lestore them to their original 
Listre. 

^Inother method. — Pass them through a solttion 
of fine hard soap, at a hand heat, drawing them 
through the hand. Rinse in lukewarm water, dry 
and finish by pinning out. Brr^-sh the flossy or 
bright side with a clean clothes' brusti, the way of 
the nap. Finish tlicm by dipping a sponge into a 
size, made by boiliiig isinglaas in water and rub 
the wrong side. Iiinse cut a second time, and 
brush and dry near a fire, or in a warm room. 

Silks may be treated in the sarac waj', but not 
brushed. If the siiks are for dyeint;, instead of 
passing them through a solution of soap and water, 
they must be boiled oft'; but if the siiks are very 



9B 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK, 



stout, the water must only be of heat sufficient to 
extract the dirt, and when rinsed in warm water, 
they are in a state for tlie dye. 

Another method. — Strew French chalk overthem 
and brush it oft" with a hard brush mice or twice. 
To clean coloured silks of all kinds. 

Put some soft soap into boiling water, and beat 
it till dissolved in a sirong lather. At a hand heat 
put iu the article. If strong;, it may be rubbed as 
in washing; rinse it quicivly in warm water, and 
add oil of vitriol, sufficient to give another water a 
sourish taste, if for bright yellows, crimsons, ma- 
roons, and scarlets; but ibr oranges, fawns, browns, 
or their shades, use no acid. For bright scarlet, 
use a solution of tin. Gently squeeze and then 
roll it in a coarse sheet, and wring it. Hang it iu 
a warm room to dry, and finish it by calendering 
or mangling. 

For pinks, rose colours, and thin shades, &c. in- 
stead of oil of vitriol, or solution of tin, prefer 
lemon juice, or white tartar, or vinegar. 

For blues, purples, and their shades, add a small 
quantity of American pearl-ash; it will restore the 
colours. Wash the articles like a linen garment, 
but, instead of wringing, gently squeeze and sheet 
them, and when dry, finish tliem with fine gum 
water, or dissolved isinglass, to which add some 
pearl-ash, rubbed on the '."roiig side; then pin them 
out. 

Blues of all shades are dyed with archil, and af- 
terwards dipped in a vat; twice cleaning with peurl- 
ash, restores the colour. For olive greens, a small 
quantity of verdigris dissolved in water, or a solu- 
tion of copper, mixed witli the water, will revive 
the colour again. 

To clean black silks. 

To bullock's gall, add boiling water sufficient to 
make it wai-m, and with & clean sponge, rub the 
silk well on both sides, squeeze it well out, and 
proceed again in like manner. Rinse it in spring 
water, and change the Avater till perfectly clean, 
dry it in the air, and pin it out on a table; but first 
dip the sponge in glue-water, and rub it on the 
yrong side; then dry i^ before a fire. 
7\) dip rusty black silks. 

If it requires to be red dyed, boil logwood; and 
in half an hour, put in the silk, and let it simmer 
half an hour. Take it out, and dissolve a little 
blue vitriol and green copperas, cool tlie copper, 
Jet it simmer half an hour, then dry it over a slick 
in the aii-. If not red dyed, pin it out, and i-inse it 
in spring water, in which half a tea-spoonful of oil 
of vitriol has been put. Work it about five minutes, 
rinse it in cold water, and finish it by pinning and 
rubbing it with gum water. 

To clean silk stockings. 

Wash with soap and water; and simmer them in 
the same for ten minutes, rinsing in cold water. 
For a blue cast, put onf> drop of liquid blue, into a 
pan of cold spring water, run the stockings through 
this a minute or two, and dry them. For a pink 
cast, put one or two di-ops of saturated pink dye 
into cold water, and rinse them through this. For 
a flesh-colour, add a little rose pink in a thin soap- 
liquor, rub them with clean flannel, and calender 
or mangle them. 

To extract grease spots from silks and coloured 
muslins, &c. 

Scrape French chalk, put it on the grease-spot, 
and hold it near the fire, or over a warm iron, or 
water-plate, filled with boiling water. The grease 
will melt, and the French chalk absorb it, brush 
or rub it off. Repeat if necessary. 

To take stains out oj silk. 
' Mixtogetherin a phial, 2oz. of essence oflemon, | 
i oz. of oil of turpentine. 

Grease and other spots in silks, are to be rutjbed |i 



gently with a linen rag dipped in the above cor* 
position. 

To take spots of paint from cloth, silks, &c. 

Dip a pen in spirit of turpentine, and transfer L' 
to the paint spot, in sufficient quantity to dischargd 
the oil and gluten. Let it stand some hours, thea 
rub it. 

For large or numerous spots, apply the spirit of 
turpentine with a sponge, if possible before it is 
become dry. 

To scour yarn. 

It should be laid in lukewarm water for three oi 
four days, each day shifting it once, wringing it out, 
and laying it in another water of the same nature; 
tlien carry it to a well or brook, and rinse it til", 
nothing comes from it but pure clean water: that 
done, take a bucking-tub, and cover the bottom 
with very fine aspen ashes; and then having opened 
and spread the slippings, lay them on those ashes, 
and put more ashes above, and lay in more slip- 
pings, covering them with ashes as before; then lay 
one upon another till the yarn is put in; afterwards 
cover up the uppermost yai-n with a bucking^cloth, 
and, ill proportion to the size of the tub, lay in a 
peck or two more of ashes; this done, pour upon 
the uppermost cloth, a great deal of warm water 
till the tub can receive no more, and let it stand so 
all night. Next morning set a kettle of clean wa- 
ter on the fire; and when it is warm, pull out the 
spiggot of the bucking-tub, to let the water run 
out of it into anotlier clean vessel; as the bucking- 
tab wastes, hll it up again with warm water on the 
fire; and as the water on the fire wastes, so like- 
wise fill up that with the ley that comes from the 
bucking-tub, ever observing to make the ley hotter 
and liotter, till it boils: then you must, as before, 
ply it with the boiling ley at least four hours toge- 
ther. For whitening, you must take oft' this buck- 
ing-cloth; then putting the yarn with the ley ashes 
into large tubs, with your hands labour the yarn, 
ashes, and ley, pretty well together, afterwards 
carry it to a well or river, and rinse it clean; tlieii 
hang it upon poles in the air all day, and in the 
evening take the slijipings down, and lay them in 
water all night; the next day hang t,liem up again, 
and throw M'utcr on tliem as they dry, observing to 
turn that side outermost, which whitens slowest. 
After having done this for a week together, put all 
the yarn again into a bucking-tub, without aslies, 
covering it as before with a bucking-ckith; lay 
tliereon good store of fresh ashes, and drive that 
buck, as before, witii very strong boiling ley, foi 
half a day, or more; then take it out, and rinse it 
hanging "it up, as before, in the day time, to dry, 
and laying it in water at night, another week. 
Lastly, wash it over in fair water, and dry it. 
To scour thick cotton coiaitei'panes. 

Cut a pound of mottled soap into thin slices; and 
put it into a pan with a quarter of an ounce of pot- 
ash, and an ounce of pearl-ash. Pour a pail of 
boiling water on it, and let it stand *'ll ihssolved. 
Then pour hot and cold water into a scouring tub, 
with a bowl of the solution. Put in the counter- 
pane, beat it well, turn it often, and give it a se- 
cond licjuor as before, then rinse it in cold water. 
Now put three tea-spoonsful of liquid blue into a 
thin liquor; stir it, and put in the counterpane: 
beat it about five minutes, and dry it in tlie air. 
To scour undyed woollens. 

Cut ^ a pound of the best ye. low soap into thin 
slices, and pour such a quantity of boiling river 
water on it as will dissolve the soap, and make it 
of the consistence of oil. Cover the articles about 
two inches with water such as the hand can bear, 
and add a lump of American pearl-ash, and about 
a third of the soap solution. Beat them till no 
Jieac. or lather rises on the water; tlu-ow ■iw&y tlie 



BLEACHING AND SCOTTRING. 



9f» 



dirty 'water, ami proceed as before with hotter wa- 
ter without pearl-ash. 

To scsur clothes, coats, pelisses^ £Jc. 
If a black, blue, or brown coat, dry 2 ounces of 
fuller's earth, ^nd pour on it sufficient boiling wa- 
ter to dissolve it, and plaster with it the spots of 
grease; take a pennvwoi'th of bullock's gall, mix 
with it half a pijit of stale urine; and a little boil- 
ing water; with a hard brush dipped in this liquor, 
brush spotted places. Then dip the coat in a bucket 
of cold spring water. When nearly dry, lay the 
nap right, and pass a drop of oil of olives over the 
brush to finish it. 

If grey, drab, fawns, or maroons, cut yellow soap 
into thin slices, and pour water upon it to moisten 
it. Rub the greasy and dirty spots of the coat. 
Let it dry a little, and then brush it with warm 
water, repeating, if necessary, as at first, and use 
water alitlle hotter; rinse several times, in wai'm 
water, and finish as l>efore. 

To scour carpels, hearth-rugs, &c. 
Rub a piece of soap on every spot of grease or 
tlirt; then take a hard brush dipped in boiling wa- 
ter, and rub the spots well. If very dirty, a solu- 
tion of soap must be put into a tub, with hot water, 
and the cai-pet well beat in it, rinsing it in several 
cle.tn waters, p'ltting in the last water a table 
spoonfulyof oil of vitriol, to brighten the colours. 
To clean cotton goums. 
Make a solution of soap, put in the articles, and 
wash them in the usual way. If gi'eens, reds, &c. 
run, add lemon juice, vinegiU', or oil of vitriol, to 
tiie rinsing water. 

To clean scarlet cloth. 
Dissolve the best white soap; and if black-look- 
ing spots appear, rub dry soap on tliem; while the 
other soap is dissolving; witli hot water, brush it 
oh'. If very dirty, immerse the article into the 
warm solution, and rub the stained parts. Dispatch 
it quickly, and as soon as the colour begins to give, 
wring it out, and immerse it in a pan or pail of 
warm water; wring it again, and immerse it in cold 
spring water, in whicli aiix a table spoonful of so- 
lution of tin. .Stir it about, and in ten minutes, 
hang it to diy in the shade, and cold press it. 

Another -method. — On a quarter of a ])eck of 
wheaten bran, pour boiling water in a hair sieve. 
In the bran-water at a hand heat, immerse tlio cloth, 
and rub it, looking through it, to see the spots. To 
a second liquor, add nearly a quarter of an ounce 
of white or crude tartar. If darkened, make a clean 
liquor of cold spring water with a drop or two of 
solution of tin, soak it in ten minutes, wring it, and 
bang it up to dry. 

To (Up scarlet cloth. 
After it has been thoroughly cleaned with soap, 
and rinsed in warm water, put into boiling spring 
water, a quarter of a pound of young fustic, or zant, 
a drachm of pounded and sifted cochineal, and an 
equal quantity of cream of tartar and cochmeal; 
boil five or six minutes, and cool by adding a pint 
ar two of cold spring water, and a table spoonful 
of the solution of tin. Stir the mixture, put in^he 
cloth, boil for ten minutes, and Avhen dry, cold 
press it. 

To raise the nap on cloth. 
Soak in cold water for half an hour, then put on 
a board, and rub the thread-bare \)arts with a half- 
worn hatter's card, filled with flocks, or with a 
prickly thistle, until a nap is raised. Hang up to 
dry, and with a hard brush lay the nap the right 
way. 

To revive faded hlack cloth. 
Having cleaned it well, boil two or three ounces 
of logwood for half an hour. Dip it in warm wa- 
ter and squeeze it dry, thsnput it into the copper, 
wid boil half an hour. 'I'aJse it out and add a small 



piece of green copperas, and boil it another half 
hour. Hang it in the air for an hour or two, then 
rinse it in two or three cold waters, dry it and let 
it be regularly brushed with a soft brush, over 
which a drop or two of oil of olives has been rub- 
bed. 

To dry clean cloth. 

Dip a brush in warm gall, and a])ply it to greasy 
places, rinse it oft" in cold water; dry by the fire', 
then lay the coat flat, strew damp sand over it, and 
with a brush beat the sarid into the cloth; then 
brush it out with a hard brush, and th.. sand will 
bring awaj' the dirt. Rub a drop of oil of olive? 
over a soft bi'ush, to brighten the colours. 

To bxach xvool, silks, siraxu bonnets, &c. 

Put a chafing dish with some lighted cbarcoal 
into a close room, or large box; then strew an ounce 
or two of powdered brimstone on the hot coals. 
Hang the articles in the room or box, make the 
door fast, and let them hang some hours. Fine 
coloured woollens .are thus sulphured before dyed, 
and straw bonnets are thus bleached. 

To take iron-moidds out of linen. 

Hold the iron mould on the cover of a tankara 
of boiling water, and rub on the spot a little juice 
of sorrel and salt, and when the cloth has thorough- 
ly imbibed the juice, wash it in ley. 
To make breeches-ball. 

Mix t pound of Bath brick, 2 pounds of pipe- 
clay, 4 ounces of pumice stone powder, and 6 
ounces of ox gall; colour them with rose pink, yel- 
low ochre, umber, Irish slate, 8«c. to any desired 
shade. 

Clothes'' ball. 

Mix two pounds of pipe clay, 4 ounces of ful 
ler's earth, 4 ounces of whiting, and a quarter of 8 
pint of ox galls. 

7'o take grease out of leather breeches. 

The white of an egg applied to the injured pan 
and dried in the sun, will efFectua'ly answer thi 
purpose. 

Another method. — To two table spoonsful of spi 
rits of turpentine, put half an ounce of mealy pota- 
toes, add some of the best Duriiam mustard, witl- 
a little vinegar; let them dry, and when well rub 
bed, the spots will be entirely removed. 
To prepare a chemical liqnid for cleaning boot 
tops, &c. 

Mix in a phial, one drachm of oxymuriate ol 
potass, with two ounces of distilled water; ant 
when the salt is dissolved, add two ounces of ran 
riatic acid. Then shake well together, mix in an 
other phial three ounces of rectified spirit of wins 
with half an ounce of the essential oil of lemon. 
unite the contents of the two phials, and keep the 
liquid, thus prepared, closel}' corked for use. This 
chemical liquid should be applied with a clean 
sponge, and dried in a gentle heat; after which, 
tlie boot-tops may be polished with a proper brush, 
so as to appear like new leather. 

Another method. — Take of white vitriol, powder- 
ed, 1 02. acid of sugar, 1 oz. water, 1 quart. Mix 
together. 

Put a label on it, " Rank Poison." 

Sponge the tops with water first; then mix with 
the liquid, and then with water again. 

To cleanse feathers from animal oil. 

^lix well with a gallon of clear water, a pound 
of quick lime; and, when the lime is precipitated 
in fine powder, pour oft' the clear lime-water for 
use, at the time it is wanted. Put the feathers to 
be cleaned in a tub, and add to them a suflicieni 
quantity of the clear lime-water, so as to cover 
them about tin-ee inches. The feathers, when tho- 
roughly moistened, will sink down, and should 
remain in the lime-water for three or four days; 
after which, the foul liquor should be scparateii 



100 



U:CrVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



f»'om them by laying theiifi on a sieve. Afterwards, 
well wash them iti clean v/ater, and dry tbera on 
nets, about the same fineness as cabbage nets. 
Shake them from time to time on the nets; as they 
dry, they will fall through the mashes, when col- 
lect them for use. The admission of air vill be 
serviceable in the drying, and the -whole process 
may be completed in about three weeks. The 
fetithers, thus prepared, want nothing further than 
beating, to be used eitlier for beds, bolsters, pil- 
lows, ike. 

To clean leather. 
Take of French yellow ochre, 1 lb. fweet oil, a 
dessert spoonful. Mix well together, so that the 
oil may not be seen: then take of pipe clay 1 lb. 
starch a quarter of a lb. Mix with boiling water; 
when cold, lay It on the leather. When diy, I'ub 
and brush it well. 

7'o make scoiinng balh. 
Portable balls, for removing spots from clothes, 
may be thus prepared. Fuller's earth perfectly 
di-ied, (so that it crumbles into a powder) Is to be 
moistened with the clear juice of lemons, and a 
small quantity of pure pearl-ashes is to be added. 
Knead the whole carefully together, till it acquires 
the consiscence of a thick elastic paste: forn^ it into 
convenieat small balls, and diy them in the sun. 
To be used, first moisten the spot on the clothes 
with water, then rub i( with the ball, and let the 
spot dry in the sun; r-fter having washed it with 
pure water, the spot v.ill entirely disappear. 
To clean marble. 
Take verdigris and pumice-stone, well powder- 
ed, with lime newly slaked. Mix with soap lees, 
to the consistence of patty. Put it in a woollen 
rag, and rub tlie stains well one way. Wash off" 
with soap and water. Repeat, if not removed. 
To take stains out of silver plate. 
Steep the plate in soap leys for the space of four 
hours; then cover it' over with whiting, wet with 
vinegar, so that it may stick. thick upon it, and dry 
it by a fire; after which, rnb oft' the whiting, anu 
pass it over with drA' bran, and the spots will not 
only disappear, but the plate will look exceedingly 
bright. 

To make plate look like neiv. 
Take of unslaked lime and alum, a pound each, 
tf aqua-vitse and vinegar, each a pint, and of beer 
grounds, tvi^o quarts; boil the plate in these, and 
Ihey will set a beautiful gloss upon it. 
I'o take viitfndt spots. 
Let the spotted part of the cloth imbibe a little 
water without dipping, and hold the part over a 
lighted common brimstone matLii at a proper dis- 
lance. The sulphurous gas, which is discharged, 
Boon causes the spots to disapijear. 

To clean gold lace and embroideri^. 
For this purpose no alkaline liqnors are to be 
used; f.^r while ther clean the gold thiyy corrode 
the silk, and chang;; or discharge its colour. Soap 
also alters the sljude, and even the sr jcies of cer- 
tain colours, iiut spirit of wine may be used with- 
out any danger of its injuri^ig either colour or qua- 
lity; and, in many cases, proves as effectual for re- 
Uoring the lustre of the gold, as the corrosive de- 
.ergents. i3ut, though spirit of wine is the most 
■nnocent material employed for this purpose, it is 
lot in all cases proper. The golden covering may 
i»e in some parts worn off; or the base metal, with 
which it has been alloyed, may be corroded b / the 
jir, so as to leave the particles of the gold di.s'mit- 
id; while the silver underneath, tarnished to a yel- 
'ovv^ hue, may continue a tolerable colour to the 
ivhole; so it is apparent that the removal of the tar- 
lish would be prejudicial, and m ike the laoe or 
imt^roidery less like s:cld than it r as before. 



To remove spots of grease from cloth. 
Spots of grease may Lie removed by a diluted so- 
lution of potash, but this must be cautiously appli- 
ed, to prevent injury to the cloth. Stains of white 
wax, which sometimes fall upon clothes from 
wax- candles, are removed by spirits of turpentine, 
or sulphuric ether. The marks of white paint may 
also be discharged by the above mentioned agents. 
To take wildeiv out of linen. 
Rub it well with soap: then scrape some fine 
chalk, and rub that also in tiie linen, lay it on the 
grass; as it dries, wet it a little, and it will come 
out after twice doing. 

To take cut spzts of ink. 
As soon as the accident happens, wet the place 
with juice of sorrel or lemon, or with vinegar, and 
the best hard white soap. 

To take out stains of cloth or silk. 
Pound French chalk fi;ie, mix with lavender- wa 
ter to the thickness of niustanl. Put on the stain; 
rub it soft with the finger or p'lm of the hand. Put 
a sheet of blotting and brown paper on the top, and 
smooth it with an iron milk-warm. 

To remove grease spots from paper. 
Let the paper stained with grease, wax, oil, or 
any other lat body, be g^mtly warmed, taking out 
as much as possible of it, by lilottmg paper. Dip 
a small brush in the essential oil of well-rectified 
spirits of turpentine, heated almost to ebullition 
(for when cold it acts very weakly), and draw it 
gently over both sides of the paper, which must be 
carefully kept warm. Let this operation be repeat- 
ed as many times as the quantity of the fat-body, 
imbibed by the paper, or the thickness of the pa- 
per, may render it necessaiy. When the greasy 
substance is removed, to restore the paper to its 
former whiteness, dip another brush in highly rec- 
tified spirit of wine, and draw it, in like manner, 
over the place; and particularly around the edges, 
to remove the border that would still present a 
stain. If the process has been employed on a part 
written on with common ink, or printed with prin 
ter's ink, it will experience no alteration. 

A7iother method. — Take of rochc-al\im burnt, 
and flour of brimstone, an equal quantity of each; 
and reducing them to a fine powder, wet the pa])er 
a little, put a small quantity of the powder upon 
the place, and the spots will disappear. 

Anothei\ — Scrape finely, some pipe-clay, (the 
i quantity will be easily determined on making the 
experiment) on this lay the sneet or leaf, and cover 
the spot, in like manner, with the clay. Cover 
the whole with a sheet of paper, and apply, for a 
few seconds, a heated ironing box, or any substi- 
tute adopted by laundresses. On using Indian rub- 
ber, to remove the dust taken up by the grease, the 
paper will be found restored to its original white- 
ness and opacity. This simple method has often 
proved much more effectual than turpentine, and 
was remarkably so, in an instance, where the folio 
of a ledger had exhibited the marks of candle grease 
and tiie snuff, for more than twelve months. 
To cleanse gloves -without ivettmg. 
Lay the gloves upon a clean board, make a mix- 
ture of dried fulling-earth, and Yjov/dered alum, and 
pass them over on each side with a common stiff 
brush: then sweep it off, and sprinkle them v,elj 
with dry bran and whiting, and dust them well; 
this, it they be not exceedingly greasy, will render 
them quite clean; but if they are much soiled take 
out the grease with crumbs of toasted bread, and 
powder of burnt bone: then pass them over with a 
woollen cloth dipped in fulling earth or alum pow- 
der: and in this manner they can b"e cleaned with- 
out wetting, which frequently shrinks and spoils 
them. 



BLEACHING AND SCOUItlNG. 



101 



Fullers'' [^rifier for -uooVen clnths. 
Drj', pulverize, and sift the followiug ingredi- 
ents: — 

6 lbs. of fuller's earth, 1 lb. of pipe clay, and 4 
oz. of French chalk. 

Make a paste of the above with the following: — 
1 oz. of rectified oil of tiirpentine, 2 oz. of spi- 
rit of wine, and 1^ lbs. of melted oil soap. 

Make up the compound into six-penny or shil- 
ling cakes for sale. These cakes are to lie kept in 
water, or in small wooden boxes. 

To clean all sorts of metal. 
Mix half a pint of refined neat's-foot oil, and half 
a gill of spirits of turpentine. Scrape a little ker- 
nel or rotten stone; wet a woollen rag therewith, dip 
»t into the scraped kern 1, andrubtiie metal well. 
Wipe it off with a soft cloth, polish with dry lea- 
ther, and use more of tiie kernel. In respect to 
steel, if it is very rusty, use a little powder of pu- 
mice with the liquid, on a separate woollen rag 
first. 

To take stains out of mahogany. 
Mix 6 ounces of spirit of salts, and ^ an ounce of 
rock salt of lemons (powdered) together. Drop a 
little on the stain, and rub it with a cork till it dis- 
appear. Wash off with cold wate'*. 

^jiotker method. — Take 2 ounces ofnil of vitriol, 
and 1 ounce of muriatic acid, or spirit of salts. Mix, 
by shaking in a phial, and when to be used lay it 
over the spotted part by means of a feather, or 
■woollen rag. Afterwards wash the part over with 
■water, and polish as usual. 

To take out -writing. 
When recently written, ink may be completely 
removed by the oxymariatic acid, (concentrated 
and in solution). The paper is to be washed over 
repeatedl}' with the acid; but it will be r.ecessary 
afterwards to wash it with lime water, for the pur- 
pose of neutralizing any acid that may be left on 
the paper, and which would considerably weaken 
it. if the ink has been long written, it will have 
undergone such, a change as to prevent the preced- 
ing process acting. It ought therefore to be wash- 
ed with liver of sulpliur (sulphuret of ammonia) 
before the oxymuriatic acid is applied. It may be 
■washed with a hair pencil. 

To restore -whites in ancient pictures. 
Carbonate of lead, exposed for some time to hy- 
dro-sulphuretted vapours, will become black, be- 
ing converted to sulphuret. This colour, when 
used with oil, and covered with a -varnish which 
defends it from the immediate contact of the air, 



may be preserved for several ages, as is proved by 
the paintings of the fifteenth centuiy. But when 
nothing protects it from the sulphurous vapouj's 
floating in the atmosphere, as is the <'.ase in distem- 
per colo^'rs, this substance should be avoided, if a 
permanent colour is intended. 

Among the numerous properties whi h belong to 
the oxygenated water discovered by M. Thenard, 
one is, instantly to chang'! the black of sulphuret 
of lead to white. A bottle of weakly oxygenated 
water, containing not more than 5 or 6 vohimes of 
oxygen, and quite tasteless, being applied to the 
black spots with a few dips of the brush, they have 
disappeared as if by enchantment. The groun<l 
being coloured by a light tint of bistre, was not, in 
the slightest degree, altered, and the ))a!iiting has 
been completely restored, without the addition of 
a single touch, to the original design. 

To restore hangiiigs, carpets, chairs, &c. 
Beat the dust out of them as clean as possible, 
tlien rub them over with a dry brusij, and make a 
good lather of Castille soap, and rub them well 
over with a hard brush, then take clean water and 
with it wash off the froth, make a water witJi alum, 
and wash them over with it, and when dry most of 
tlie colours will be restored in a short time; and 
those that are yet too faint, must be touched up 
with a pencil dipped in suitable colours: it maybe 
run all o\er in the same manner witli water colours 
mixed well with gum water, and it will look at a 
distance like new. 

To clean paper hangings. 
Cut into eight half quarters a stale quartern loaf: 
with one of these pieces, after having blown off all 
the dust fro'm the paper to be cleaned by means of 
a good pair of bellows, begin at the top of thfe 
room, holding the crust in the hand, and wiping 
lightly downward with the crumb, about lialf a 
yard at eacli stroke, till the upper part of the hang- 
ings is completely cleaned all round; then go again 
round with the like sweeping stroke downward, 
always commencing eacli successive course a little 
higher than the upper stroke had extended, till 
the bottom be finished. This operation, if care- 
fully performed, will frequently make very old 
paper look almost equal to new. Great caution 
must be used not by any means to rub the paper 
hard, nor to attempt cleaning it the cross or hori- 
zontal way. The dirty part of -he bread too must 
ue each time cut away, and the pieces renewed as 
soon as at all necessary. 



CEMEMTS. 



To make an improved building cement. 

This method consists in the employment of cer- 
tam burnt or vitrified earths, and metallic and other 
substances, which are pounded or ground to pow- 
der, and mixed with lime. 

The eai'thy substances used, are all those kinds 
of clay or loam that are capable of becoming vitri- 
fied and intensely hard, by exposure to a strong 
fire; chalk, and such earttis as become soft and fall 
to pieces, when exposed to heat, are luiht for the 
purpose; but flint stones and pebbles may be used 
with advantage. 

The proper kimls of earth being thus selected, 



the material is heated in the interior of a brick- 
kiln, or furnace, until it becomes completely vitri-^ 
fied or reduced to a state of hard, black, or glossy 
clay, and this vitrification will sometitries be im- 
proved, by mixing refuse or broken glass, or sand 
and wood-ashes, with sand or vitrified materialr, 
such as those which come from the furnaces ot 
smelting-houses, glass-houses, foundries, Sic. or 
any materials reduced to a state of vitrification by 
intense heat. These materials are then to be 
bruised, pounded, or ground, and sifted through a 
wire sieve, until reduced to such a state of fine- 
ness as may be proper for mixing up as a plaster. 

1 2 



102 



UNIVERSAL RECEll T BOOK. 



Thus prepared, the materials are to be sorted into 
different qualities, and put up for use. 

Manner of using it. — The manner of using this 
material, is by mixing it with well-burnt lime in- 
stead of the sand usually employed in the comjjo- 
sition of stucco or cement, to which water must be 
added, until a proper consistency is obtained. 
This artificial Puzzolene may be mixed with 
quick lime, completely pulverized, and put into 
casks for use; it is, however, necessary to keep it 
from moistui'e, or exposure to the open air. The 
proportion of quick-lime to be added to the above 
materials, depends entirely upon the strength of 
the lime: in general, one measure of good lime 
will be sufficient for from three to five measures of 
the material. 

Another part of the improvement consists in 
the introduction of various coloured bricks, which, 
highly burnt or vitrified, and reduced to powder, 
are to be mixed up with tlie artificial Puzzolene, 
in order to produce spots or streaks, in imitation 
of marble and other variegated stone. 
To make HameHn's cement. 

This cement consists in a mixture of eartlis and 
other substances that are insoluble in water, or 
nearly so, either in their natural state, or such as 
have been manufactured, as earthen-ware, porce- 
lain, and such like substances; but Mr H. prefers 
those earths that, either in their natural or manu- 
factured state are the least soluble in water, and 
have, wlien pulverized or reduced to powder, the 
least colour. To the earth or earths, as before 
named, either in their natural or manufactured 
state, and so pulverized, he adds a quantity of each 
of the oxyds of lead, as litharge, grey oxyd, and 
minium, reduced or ground to a fine powder, and 
to the wliole of the above-named substances, a quan- 
tity of [lulverized glass or flint-stone. These vari- 
ous earths, oxyds, and glass or flint-stone, reduced 
to a pulverized state, in proper and due proportion, 
and being mixed with a proper and due proportion 
of vegetable oil, form and make a composition or 
cement, which, by contact or exposure to the at- 
mosphere, hardens and forms an impenetrable and 
impervious coating or covering, resembling Port- 
land or other stones. 

To any given weight of the earth or earths, 
commonly called pit-sand, river-sand, rock-sand, 
or any other sand of the same or the like nature, 
or pulverized earthen-ware or porcelain, add two 
thirds of such given weight of the earth or earths, 
commonly called Portland-stoue, Bath-stone, or 
any other stone, of the same or the like nature, 
pulverized. To every five hundred and sixty 
])Ounds weight of these earths, so prepared, add 
forty pounds weight of litharge, and, with the last 
mentioned given weights, combine two pounds 
weight of pulverized glass or flint-stone. Then 
join to tliis mixture one pound weight of minium 
and two pounds weight of grey oxyd of lead.' 

This composition being thus mixed, pass the 
same through a wire sieve, or dressing machine, 
of such a fineness or mash as may be requisite for 
the purpose it is intended for, preferring a fine 
sieve, mash, or wire-work, when t'he composition 
is to be used for works that require a fine smooth 
or even surface. It is now a fine and dry powder, 
and may be kept open in bulk or in casks for anj- 
length of time, without deterioration. 

When this composition is intended to be made 
into cement, for any of the purposes described, it 
is spread upon a board or pbitform, or mixed in a 
trougli: and to every six hundred and five pounds 
weiglit of the composition, are added five gallons 
of vegetable oil, as linseed-oil, walnut-oil, orpink- 
sil. The composition is then mixed in a similar 
way to tiiat of mortar, and is afterwards subjected 



to a gentle pressure, by treading upon it: and this 
operation is continued until it acquires the appear- 
ance of moistened sand. Tlie niixture, being thus 
composed, is a cement fit and applicable to the 
enumerated purposes. It is requisite to observe, 
that this cement should be used the same day the 
oil is added, otherwise it will fix or set into a solid 
substance. 

To apply it to buildings. 
When the cement is applied for tlie purpose of 
covering buildings intended to resemble stone, the 
surface of the building is washed with oiL The 
cement is then applied of the thickness of an inch, 
or any greater thickness, according to the nature 
of the work, joint, or stone, it is intended to re- 
semble. It is requisite to observe, that when a 
joint, intended to resemble a plain stone joint, is 
to be made upon the surface of the cement or cona- 
position, the cement must be partly set or harden- 
ed previously to the impression of the joint upon 
its surface, and the joint is made by a rule and 
steel jointer. When the cement is used for the 
covering of substances less absorbent than bricks 

I or tiles, (as wood, lead, iron, or tin,) a much less 
quantity of boiled linseed oil in preparing the sur- 
faces is required. 

To make cement for floors. 
Earthen-floors ar^; commonly made of loam, and 
sometimes, especially to make malt on, of lime 
and brook sand, and gun dust or anvil dust from 
the forge. The manner of making earthen-floors 
for plain country habitations is as follows: take 
two-thirds of lime, and one of coal-ashes well 
sifted, with a small quantity of loam clay, mix the 
whole together, and temper it well with watdr, 
making it up into a heap; let it lie a week or ten 

I days, and then temper it over again. After this, 
heap it up for three or four days, and repeat the 
tempering very high, till it becomes smooth, 
yielding, tough, and gluey. The ground being 
then levelled, lay the floor therewith about 2 1-2 
or three inches thick, making it smooth with a 
trowel: the hotter the season is, the better; and 
when it is thoroughly dried, it will make the best 
floor for houses, especially mall-houses. If any 
one would have their floors look better, let them 
take lime of rag-stones, well tempered with whites 
of eggs, coverii.g the floor about half an inch thick 
with it, before the under flooring is too dry. If 
this be well done, and thoroughly dried, it will 
look, when rubbed with a little oil, as transparent 
as metal or glass. In eleganc houses, floors of this 
nature are made of stuc-o, or of plaster of Paris 
beatenand sifted, and mixed with other ingredients. 
Pew's composition for covering buildings. 
Take the hardest and purest limestone (white 
marble is to be preferred) free from sand clay, or 
other matter; calcine it in a reverberatory furnace, 
pulverize and pass it through a sieve. One part, 
by weight, is to be mixed with two parts of clay 
well baked and similarly pulverized, conducting 
the wlioie operation with great care. This forms 
the first powder. The second is to be made of one 
part of calcined and pulverized gypsum, to which 
is added two parts of clay, baked and pulverized. 
These two powders 'are to be combined, and inti- 
mately incorporated, so as to form a perfect mix- 
ture. When It is to be used, mix it with about a 
fourth part of its weight of water, added gradually, 
stirring the mass wjil the whole time, until it 
forms a thick paste, in which state it is to be 
spread like mortar upon the desired surface. It 
becomes in time as hard as stone, allows no mois- 
ture to penetrate, and is not cracked by heat. 
When wellprepaivd it will last any length of time. 
When in its plastio or soft state, it may be colom^ 
ed of any desired lint. 



CEMENTS. 



103 



Fo make cement for cannls. 

Take one part of iron filings, reduced to sifted 
powder, three parts of silica, four parts of alumine 
combined with oxide of iron — the same C(aantit}- of 
pulverized brick, and two parts of hot lime; the 
whole measured by weight and not by bulk. 

Put the mixture into a large wooden tub, in or- 
der that nothing foreign may be introduced into it. 
If sufficient water is poured out to extinguish the 
lime and i!;ive a degree of liquidness to the cement, 
and if all the component paits are briskly stirred, 
a great v^egree of heat will be emitted from the 
lime, and an intimate union formed by the heat. 
JVote on preparing hydraulic cements. 

It has been satisfactorily ascertained that " the 
access of air during the calcination of the argilla- 
ceous cements, is of great consequence to the te- 
nacity' of the mortar and the quickness with which 
it hardens." The clay for the best hydraulic ce- 
ment, should contain a little lime, be calcined un- 
der exposure to a current of air, and after being 
well pulverized, be mixed with a paste of lime in 
the proportion of one of the latter to two or two 
and a half of the former. 

To make I'arker's cement. 

This cement is maile of very argillaceous lime- 
Blones, which are burnt in conical kilns, with a 
continued fire of pit-coal, in the same manner as 
other limestones; but it the heat be so great as to 
cause a commencement of fusion in the cement, it 
will be totally spoiled. It is reduced to an impal- 
pable powder by grinding as soon as it is burnt, 
and is sent away in barrels well closed. I 

The above is much used in London for facing j 
houses, and for the foundation of large edifices. It j 
requires much practice in the workmen who use | 
it; for if not tempered to the proper consistence, 1 
and immediately applied, it solidifies unequally, j 
cracks, and adheres badly. It is recommended to ; 
be mixed with fine angular sand well washed, in | 
the proportion of two parts to three of cement, for j 
foundations and cornices exposed to rain; from 3, i 
4, and 5 parts to 3 of cement for common mortars: 
from three parts to two of cement for coating walls 
exposed to cold, and five parts to two of cement j 
for walls exposed to dryness or heat. i 

Cement for rock-ivork and reservoirs. 

Where a great quantity of cement is wanted for [ 
eoarser uses, the coal-abh mortar (or Welsh tarras) | 
ss the clieapest and best, and will hold extremely ^ 
well, not only M'here it is constantly kept wet or | 
dry, but even where it is sometimes dry and at , 
ethers wet; but where it is liable to be exposed to j 
wet and frost, this cement should, at its being laid 
on, be suft'ered to diy thoroughly before any mois- 
ture has access to it; and, in that case, it will like- | 
vvise be a great improvement to temper it with the j 
blood of any beast. 

The mortar must be formed of one part lime 
and two parts of well-sifted coal-ashes, and they 
must be thoroughly mixed by being beaten to- 
gether; for on the perfect commixture of the in- 
gredients the goodness of the composition depends. 
To make mortar. 

Mortar is composed of quick-lime and sand, re- 
duced to a paste with water. The lime ought to 
be pure, completely free from carbonic acid, and j 
in the state of a very fine powder; the sand should ; 
be free from clay, partly in the state of fine sand, j 
and partly in that of gravel: the water should be | 
pure; and if previously saturated with lime, so i 
much tlie better. The best proportions are three | 
parts of fine, and four parts of coarse sand, one j 
part of quick-lime, recently slacked, and as little i 
water as possible. I 

The addition of burnt bones improve mortar by | 
giving it tenacity, and render it less apt to crack I 



in drj'ing; but they ought never to exceed one- 
fourth of the lime employed. 

When a little manganese is added to mortal-, it 
acquires tlie important property of hardening un- 
der water; so that it may be employed in con- 
structing those edifices which are constantly ex- 
posed to the action of water. Limestone is often 
combined witli manganese: in that case it becomes 
brown by calcination. 

Tunisian cement. 

This is composed of three parts of lime, one of 
sand, rnd two of wood-ashes: these ingredients are 
mixed up with oil and water alternately, till they 
compose a paste of the desired consistency. 
Dutch terras. 

This is composed of basalt ground to a fine pow- 
der, and blue argillaceous lime, mixed up with wa- 
ter, and well beaten together. 

Toumay cement 

Is a mixture of co?l ashes, with blue argillo-fer- 
rugaious lime and sand, well beaten up with wa- 
ter, left to dry, repeatedly levigated, moistened, 
and beaten. 

JRoman cement. 

A sort of plaster so called, which well withstands 
our soft climate, is made by mixing a bushel ot 
lime slaked, with three pounds and a half of green 
copperas, 15 gallons of water, and half a bushel of 
fine gravel sand. The copperas should be dis- 
solved in hot water; it must be stirred with a stick, 
and kept stirring continually while in use. Care 
should be taken to mix at once as much as may be 
requisite for one entire front, as it is very difficult 
to match the colour again; and it ought to be mix- 
ed the same day it is used. 

Genuine Romati cement. 

This consists of the puhis Puteolanvs, or piiz- 
zolene, a ferruginous clay from Puteoli calcined 
by the fires of Vesuvius, lime, and sand, mixed up 
with soft water. The only preparation which th« 
puzzolens undergoes is tliat of pounding and sift- 
ing; but the ingredients are occasionally mixed up 
with bullock's blood, and fat of animals, to give 
the composition more tenacity. 

JMaltha, or Greek mastich. 

This is a more simple composition than the ce- 
ment of the Romans, when used for st ucco on the 
outsides of fabrics, consisting only of lime and 
sand, but rendered into a paste witli milk, or size. 
Indian cement. 

This is only a variation of the mastich, and is 
composed of equal quantities of flint, lime, and 
pit sand, slaked with water, well beaten, and suf- 
fered to remain for three or four days, then moist- 
ened and mixed up with oil, mucilage, whites of 
eggs, and bitter milk, and applied, as rapidly as 
possible, after being mixed. 

To make impenetrable mortar. 

Mix thoroughly one-fourth of the fresh unslak- 
ed lime wit'.i three-fourths of sand; and let five la- 
bourers make mortar of these ingredients, by pour- 
ing on water, with trowels, to supply one mason, 
who must, when the materials are sufficiently mix- 
ed, apply it instantly as cement or plaster, and it 
will becom? as hard as stone. The lime used 
should be stone-lime; previous to its use, it should 
be preserved from the access of air or wet, and the 
plaster screened for some time from the sun and 
wind. 

To make Wych's itucco. 

Take four or five bushels of such plaster as is 
commonly burnt for floors about Nottingham for 
a similar quantity of any tan-as, plaster, or calcm- 
ed gypsum); beat it to fine powder, then sift and 
put it into a trough, and rr\ix with it one bushel of 
pure coal ashes, well calcined. Pour on the wa- 
ter, till the whole becomes good mortar. Lay this 



104 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



jn wooJen frames of twelve feet in length on the 
wal's, well smoothed with common mortar and 
dry, the thickness of two inches at each side, and 
three inchfs in the middle. When the frame is 
moved to proceed with the work, leave an interval 
of two inches for tliis coping to extend itself, so as 
to meet the last frame work. 

I'o make Wi!liains''s ntucco. 

Take sharp, rough, large-grained sand, sifted, 
washed, dried, anil freed from all impurities, 84 
pounds; well burnt lime, slaked and finely si.ted, 
12 pounds; cur<l, or cheese, produced from milk, 
4 pounds; (the first, fresh made, and strongly 
pressed, to divest it of its wliey; the second, whilst 
perfectly sound, rasped into powder witli a grater, 
or brought in; j a very light substance with scra- 
pers, or fine-toothed plane-ii'ons, in a turner's 
lathe); and lastly, water in its natural state, 10 
pounds. If the sand is not thoroughly dried, or 
the lime has got damp from the air, the quantity 
of water must be less than tlie above proportion; 
and, on the contrary, when the lime is used im- 
mediately, it may require more; so that the pro- 
per stiffness of tlie mortar, under those circum- 
stances, will regulate the making of the compo- 
sition. 

Jron cement. 

This is formed of the borings of cast iron guns 
or turnings of cast iron which should be clean and 
free from rust until used. By slight pounding or 
triturating they are broken but not powdered, and 
then coarsely sifted. At the time of using, they 
are to be mixed with powdered sal ammoniac and 
sulphur, and slightly moistened with water; when 
the composition must be rammed or caulked into 
the joints with a blunt caidking chisel and ham- 
mer, and the Joint screwed up by its bolts as 
tightly as possible. 

No more of ^his cement must be made than can 
he used at one time, because it soon spoils; but if 
good, it will become as hard as the iron itself in a 
few dajs: 2 ounces of sal ammoniac, and 1 ounce 
of sulphur is sufticient for 5 pounds of iron borings. 
Water cement. 

A cement may be made with common lime, that 
will harden under water. What is called jf)oo;' 
lime has this peculiar property; but as this species 
of limestone rarely occurs, it is often an expensive 
ai'licle. The following is a good substitute, and 
may be used for water cisterns, aqueducts, &c. 
Mix four parts ot grey clay, six of the black oxide 
of manganese, and ninety of good limestone re- 
duced to fine powder; then calcine the whole to 
expel the carbonic acid. When tliis mixture has 
been well calcined and cooled, it is to be worked 
into tl;e consistence of a soft paste with sixty parts 
of washed sand. If a lump ot this cement be 
thrown into water, it will harden immediately. 
Such mortar, however, may be procured at a still 
less expense, by mixing with common qu-ck lime i 
a certain quantity of what are called the •white iron 
ores, especially such as are poor in iron. These 
ores are chiefiy composed of manganese and car- 
bonate of lime, or chalk. Common lime and sand 
oidy, whatever may be tlie proportion of the mix- 
ture, will certainly become soil under water. 
■ Wat'er cement or stucco. 

Take 56 pounds of pure coarse sand, 42 pounds 
of pure fine sand; mix them together, and moisten 
them tiiorougbiy with lime water; to the wetted 
sand, add 14 pounds of pure fresh burnt lime, and 
while beating them up together, add, in successive 
portions, 14 pounds of bone ash: the quicker and 
more perfectly these materials are beaten together, 
and the sooner they are used the betttr wili be the 
cement; for some kinds of work it will be better 
to use line sand ali>ne, and for others, coarse sand; 



remembering the finer the sand is, the greater 
quantity of lime is to be employed. 

To make afire and water proof cement. 
To half a pint of vinegar, add the same quantity 
of milk; separate the curd, and mix the whey with 
the whites of five eggs; beat it well together, and 
sift into it a sufficient quantity of quick lime, to 
convert it to the consistency of a thick paste. Bro- 
ken vessels, mended with this cement, never after- 
wards separate, for it resists the action of both fire 
and water. 
Turkish cemait for joining metak, glass, &c. 
Dissolve mastith in as much spirit of wine as 
will suffice to render it liquid; in another yessel 
dissolve as much isinglass (which has been pre- 
viously soaked in water till it is swollen and soft) 
in brandy as will make two ounces by measure oi 
strong glue, and add two small bits of gum galba- 
num, or ammoniacum, which must be rubbed or 
ground till they are dissolved; then mix the whole 
with a sufficient heat: keep it in a phial stopt^ and 
when it is to be used set it in hot water. 
Yates's water proof cement. 
Take of the best glue four ounces, of isinglass 
two ounces, and dissolve them in mild ale over a 
slow fire, in a common glue kettle, to the consis- 
tence of strong glue, when one ounce and a half of 
well boiled linseed oil mist be gradually added, 
and the whole be v/ell mixed by stirring. When 
cold and made into cakes, it resembles Indian rub- 
ber. When wanted for use dissolve a piece of it 
in a proportionate quantity of ale. This cement 
is applicable to all joints of wood, to join earthen- 
ware, china, glass. It is an excellent cement for 
leather, for harness, bands for machinery, &cc. 
The joints of these are to be prepared as iffor sew- 
ing, the cement to be apjilied hot, laying a weight 
upon each joint as it is made, in whicli slate ii ia 
to be left six hours, when the joints will be found 
nearly as firm as if they were of an entire piece. 
By adding a little tow lo the above, you have ar> 
excellent cement for leaks in casks, &c. kc. 
Common cement for joining alabaster, marble, por- 
phyry, and other stones. 
Take of bees' wax, 2 pounds, and of resin, 1 
pound. Melt them, and add 1 pound and a iialf 
of the same kind of matter, powdered, as the body 
to be cemented is composed of, strewing it into 
the melted mixture, and stirring them well toge- 
ther, and afterwards kneading the mass in water, 
that the powder may be tlioroughly incorporated 
with the wax and resin. The proportion of the 
powdered matter may be varied, where required, 
in order to bring the cemeni nearer to the colour 
of the body on which it is employed. 

This cement must be heated when applied, as 
also the parts of the subject to be cemeiil d toge- 
ther, anil care must be taken, likewise, that they 
may be thoroughly dry. 

To make lutes. 
These are used for securing the juncture of ves- 
sels, in distillations and sublimations. For the 
distillation of water, linen dipped in a thin paste 
of flour and water is sufficient. A lute of greater 
security is composed of quick-lime, made into a 
paste with the whites of eggs. For the security of 
very corrosive vapours, clay finely powdered and 
sifted, made into a paste with boiled linseed oil, 
must be upplied to the juncture; which must be 
afterwards covered with slips of linen, dipped in - 
the paste of quick-lime, and the whites of eggs. 
The lute must be perfectly dried before the vessels 
are used, or else the heat may cause it to dry too 
quick, and thereby cause the lute to crack. 1!' this 
be the case, it is repaired by applying fresh lute iu 
the cracks, and suffering it to dry gradually. Vessels 
which are to be exposed to the naked fire, are 



CEMENTS. 



106 



frequently coate.l to resist the effects of the heat, 
tne best coatinsf for which purpose consists in dis- 
solving 2 ounces of borax in a pint of boiliiiij water, 
and adding to the sohitiou as much slaked lime as 
is necessary to form a thin paste. The vessel must 
be covered nil over with it by means of a painter's 
brusli, and then suffered to dry. It must then be 
covered with a thin paste of linseed oil and slaked 
lime, except tiic neck. In two or three days it 
will diy of itself, and the retort will then bear the 
greatest fire without cracking. TliC ci-ackf of clie- 
luicul vessels m;:y be secured by tiie seiond lute. 
Cement for iron cuUnarv utensils. 

To 6 parts of yellow potter's clay, add 1 part of 
steel filings, and a suflicient quantity of oil. Make 
the paste of the consistence of glazier's putty. 
to make turner'' s cement. 

The following is a very excellent cement for the 
use of turners and artizans in general: 16 parts of 
wniting are to be finely powdered and heated to 
redness, to drive oft" ah the water. When cold, it 
is to be mixed with 16 parts of black resin, and 1 
part of bees'- wax, the latter having been previously 
melted together, and the whole stiried till of an 
uniform consistence. 

Cement fur Joining broken glasses, &c. 

Take two ounces of good glue, and steep it for a 
uig!it in distilled vinegar; boil them together ihe 
next day, and having broken a clove of garlic with 
half an ounce of ox-gall, into a soft pulp, strain the 
juice througli a lintn cloth, using pressure, and 
add to it the glue and vinegar. Then take of san- 
darac pow(iered, and turpentine, each one drachm, 
and of sai'cocol and mastic powdered, each half a 
riracbm; put them ii.to a bottle with an ounce of 
highly reclined spirit of wine. Stop the bottle, 
and let llie mi.xture stand for tlu'ee hours iu a gen- 
tle heat, frequently shaking it. Mix ihii >,inclure 
also with the glue while hot, and stir them well to- 
gether with a stick, till part of the mixture be eva- 
porated, and then take the composition from the 
tire, an<l it will be fit for use. When this cement 
is to be applied it must be dipped in vinegar, and 
(hen melted in a proper vessel, with a gentle heat; 
and if stones ai-e to be cemented, mix with it a 
little powdered clialk, or if glass is to be conjoin- 
ed, powdered glass should be substituted. 
A strong cement for electrical purposes. 

Melt one pound of rtisin in a pot or pan, over a 
slow tire; add thereto as much plaister of Paris, in 
fine powder, as will make it hard enough; then add 
a spoonful of linseed oil, stirring it all the while, 
and try if it be hard and tough enough for the pur- 
pose; if it is not sufficientlv hard, add more plaster 
of Paris; and if not tough enough, a little more 
linseed oil. This is as good a cement as possible 
for fixing the necks of globes or cylinders, or any 
thing else that requires to be strongly fixed; for it 
IS not easily melted again when cold. 

A cement for glass-gimders. 

Take pitch and boil it; add thereto, and keep 
stirring it all the while, fine sifted wood ashes, 
until it is of a proper temper: a little tallow maj 
be added, as found necessary. For small works, to 
fou.- ounces of resin add one-fourth of an ounce of 
bees'-wax melted together; aud four ounces of 
"whitening, made previously red hot. The whiten- 
ing should be put in while hot, that it may not 
have time to imbibe moisture from the atmosphere. 

Anot/ier. — Shell-lac is a very strong cement for 
holding metals, glass, or precious stones, while | 
cutting, turning, or grinding them. The metal, 
&c. should be warmed, to melt it. For fastening 
ruby cylinders in watches, and similar delicate 
ptu-poses, shell-lac is excellent. 

'J solder or cement broken glass. 

Broken glass may be soldered or cemented in 



such a manner as to be as strong as ever, by inter- 
posing between the parts glass ground ii' like \> 
pigment, but of easier fusion than llie ])ieces to i-e 
joined, and then exposing them to such a heat as 
will fuse the cementing ingi-edient, and make tl.e 
pieces agglutinate without being theniselves fused, 
A glass for the purpose ofcementing broken pieces 
of flint glass, may be made by fusing some of the 
same kind of glass previously reduced to p')wder, 
along with a little red lead and borax, or with the 
borax only. 

Cement for DcrbysMre spur and other stones. 

A cement for this purpose may be made with 
about seven or eight parts of resin and one of bees'- 
wax, melted together with a small quantity of plas- 
ter of Paris. If it is wislied to make the cement 
fill up the jdace of any small chips that may have 
been lost, the quantity of plaster must be incr?ased 
a little. ■ When the ingredients are well mixed, 
and the whole is nearly culd, the mass should be 
well kneaded together. 'I'he pieces of spar that 
are to be joined, must be heated until they uiij 
meit the cement, and then pressed together, some 
01 the cement being previously intei-posed. Melted 
sulphur apj)lied to fragments of stones previously 
heated (by placing them before a fire) to at least 
the melting point of sulphur, and then joined with 
the sulphur between, makes a pretty firm aud du- 
rable joining. Little deficiencies in the L-tone, as 
chips out of corners, &c. nuij- be also filled up with 
melted sulphur, in which sorai of the powder of 
the stone has been melted. 

A cement that -j>ill stand aguinsl boiling tvaier ana 
the pressure of steam. 

Boiled linseed oil, lithj.rge, and red and white 
lead, mixed together to a jjroper consistence, and 
ap])lied on each side of apiece of tlannel previous- 
ly i.iaped to fit the joint, and then inteqjosed be- 
tween the pieces before they arebrouglit home (as 
the workmen term it) to their places by the screws 
or other fastenings employed, m.ikes a close and 
durable joint. The quantities of the ingredients 
may be varied without inconver.ience, only taking 
care not to make the mass too thin with oil. It is 
difficult in many cases instantly to make a good 
fitting of large pieces of iron-work, which renders 
it necessary sometimes to join and separate the 
pieces repeated!}'', before a proper adjustment is 
obtained. When this is expected, the while lead 
ought to predominate in the mixture, as it dries 
much slower than the red. 

This cement answers well also for joining bro- 
ken stones, however large. Cisterns built of square 
stones put together with this cement, will uevei 
leak, or want any repairs. In this case the stones 
need not be entirely bedded iu it: an inch, or even 
less, of the edges that are to lie next the water, 
need only be so treated; the rest of tiie joint may 
be filled v,ith good lime. 

Cement for steam-engines. 

Take tw'o ounces of sal ammoniac, one ounce of 
flowers of sulphur, and sixteen ounces of cast-iron 
filings or borings, mix all well together by rubbing 
them in a inortar, and keep the powder dry. 

When wanted for use, take one part of the above 
powder and twenty parts of clean iron borings or 
filings, and mix them intimately by grinding them 
in a mortar. Wet the compound with water, and 
when brought to a convenient consistence, apply it 
to the joints with a wooden or blunt iron spatula. 
Another cement for similar purposes. 

Take two parts of flowers of sulphur aud one 
part of sal ammoniac, and mix them together with 
a little water into a stiff paste. 

Take also borings or turnings of cast-iron as 
they are found in manufactories, viz. mixed with 
sand, and sift iliem finely to get rid of the grosser 



106 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



particles. "Wlien the cement is wanted for use 
dissolve a iiortiou of tlic above paste in urine, or 
sligiillv Acidulated water, and to the solution add 
a quanliiy ol the sifted borings, and apply as above, 
and in a short time it will become as hard as stone. 
Blood cement for copp^r^milhu. 

A cement often used by coppersmiths to lay over 
the rivets and eds^es of the sheets of copper in large 
boilers, to serve'as ai\ aiidiliona! security to ths 
joinings, and to secure cocks, &c. Iron) leaking, 
is made liy mixing pouiuied quiek-limc with ox's 
blood. It must be applied fresli made, as it soon 
gets hard. If the pi-operties of this cenient were 
dulv investigated, it would probably be found use- 
ful for many purposes to which it has never yet 
been applied. It is e.\:tremely cheap, and very du- 
rable. 

Fntomolog'.sfs cement. 

To a solution of gur.. ammoniac in proof spirit, 
*dd the lest isinglass, and unite them with a gen- 
tle heat. The great value of this cement consists 
in the readiness' wiiii which it melts, and the little 
tendency it has to be aftected by moisture. It is 



generally employed by entomologists in reioiniag 
the dislocated parts of insects, for which it is -vevy 
convenient. 

Jlicrnscopc cement. 

Put into a bottle two parts of isinglass and one 
part of the best gum arable, cover them with proof 
spirit, cork the bottle loosely, and place it in a ves- 
sel of watei-, and boil it till a thorough solution is 
effected, when it must be strained for use. This 
is a highly valuable cement, for many purposes, 
and is iised for mounting opaque objects for the 
microscope. 

•Tapanese cement, or rice glue. 

This elegant cement is made by mixing rice- 
flour intimately with cold water, and then gently 
boiling it: it is beautifully while, and dries almost 
transparent. Papers pasted together by means of 
this cement will sooner sejjarate ii» their own sub- 
stance than at the joining, which makes it I'se- 
ful in the preparation of curious paper articles, as 
tea-trays, ladies' dressing boxes, and other articles 
that require layers of paper to be cemented toge- 
ther. 



To fit up a small brervhousc. 
Pt-<ivide a copper holding full two-thirds of the 
quantity proposed to be brewed, with a guage itick 
to determine the number of gallons in the copper. 
A mash tub, or tun, adapted to contain two-tliirds 
of the quantity proposed to be brewed, and one or 
two tuns of equal size to ferment tlie wort. Three 
or four shallow coolers; one or two wooden bowls; 
a thermometer; half a doz;n casks of different 
sizes; a large funnel; two or three clean pails, and 
a hand punip; the whole costing from ten to twen- 
ty pounds. 

This proceeds on the supposition of two mashes 
for ale; l)Ut if only one mash is adapted for ale, 
with a view of making tlie table beer better, then 
the co))per and mash tun should liold one-third 
more than the quantity ta be brewed. 

The expenses of brewiug depenil on the price of 
malt and hops, and on the proposed strength of the 
article. One qnarier of good malt, an<l eight pounds 
of good hops, ougl-.t to make two barrels of good 
ale and one of table beer. The other expenses con- 
sist of coals and labour. 

Of pul)lic breweries, an<l their extensive utensils 
anil machinery, we affect to give no description, 
because books are not likely to be re-sorted to by 
the class of persons engaged in those extensive ma- 
nufactories for information relative to their own 
particular business. 

To choise ivaler for brewing. 
S»ft water, or hard w uler softened Ijy exposure 
to the air, is generally preferred, because it makes 
a stronger extract, and is more inclined to fei'ment; 
DUt hard water is better for keeping beer, and is 
less liable to turn sour. Some persons soften hard 
water by throwing a spoonful of soda into a barrel, 
and others do it' with a har.dful of common salt 
mixed with an ounce of salt of tartar. 
7 b make malt. 
Put about 6 quarters of good barley, newly thresh- 
ed, Uc into a stone trough full of water, and let it 



steep till the \valer be of a bright reddish colour, 
which will be in about three days, more or less, ac- 
cording to the moisture or diyness, Smallness or 
bigness of the grain, the season of the year, or the 
temperature of the weather. In summer malt never 
makes well; in winter it requires longer steeping 
than in spring or autumn. It may be known wheFi 
steeped enough, by other mai-ks besides the colour 
of the water; as by the excessive swelling of the 
grain, if it be oversteeped, and by too much soft- 
ness, being, when it is in a right temper, like the 
barley prepared to make broth. When sufficiently 
steeped, take it out of the trough, and lay it in heaps 
to let the water di'ain from it, then, after two or 
three hours, turn it over wilh a scoop, and lay it in 
a new heap, 20 or 24 inches deep. This is called 
the coming heap, in the right n.anagement of which 
lies the principal skill. In iliis heap it may lie 40 
hours more or less, aicording to the forementioned 
qualities of the grain, kc. before it comes to the 
right temper of malt. While it lies, it nmst be 
carefully looked to after the first !5 or 16 hours; 
for about that tinie the grains begin to put forth 
roots; which, when they have equally and fully 
done, the malt must, within an hour after, be turn- 
ed over with a scoop; otherwise the grains will be- 
gin to put foi-th the blade and spire also, which 
nmst by all means be prevented. If all the malt 
do not" come equally, but that which lies in the 
middle, being warmest, come the soonest, the whole 
must be turi\'ed, so that what was outmost may be 
inmost; and thus it is managed till it be all alike. 
As soon as the malt is sufficiently come, turn it 
over, and spread it to a depth not exceeding 5 or 6 
inches; and by the time it is all spread out, begin 
awd turn it over again 3 or 4 times. Afterwards 
turn it over in like manner once in 4 or 5 
hours, making the heap deeper by degrees; and 
continue to do so for the space of 48 hours at }",ast. 
This cools, dries, and deadens the grain, ao thai 
it becomes mellow, melts easily in brewing. ixvA 



BREVVENG. 



107 



separates entirely from the husk. Then throw up 
the malt into a heap as high as possible, where let 
it lie till it grow as hot as the hand can bear it, 
"which usually happens in about the space of 30 
hours. This perfects the sweetness and mellowness 
■of the malt. After beinsr sufficiently lieated, throw 
it abroad to cool, and turn it over again about 6 or 
■8 hours after; and then lay it on a kiln with a hair 
cloth or wire spread under it. After one fire which 
must last 24 hours, give it another more slow, and 
afterwards, if need be, a third; for if the malt be 
not thoroughly dried, it cannot be well ground, nei- 
ther will it dissolve wjl in the brewing; but the ale 
it makes will be red, bitter, and unfit for keeping. 
To grind malt. 

To obtain the infusion of malt, it is necessary to 
break it, for which purpose it is passed through 
stones placed at such distance, as that they may 
arush each grain without reducing it to powder; 
♦or if ground too small, it makes the worts thick, 
•while if not broken at all, the extract is not ob- 
tained. In general, pale malts are ground larger 
than amber, or brown malts. 

Malt should be used within 2 or 3 days after it 
is ground, but in the London hrew-houses, it is 
generally ground one day and u«ed the next. A 
quarter of malt ground should yield 9 bushels, and 
sometimes 10. Crushing mills, or iron rollers, 
4iave lately been used in preference to stones which 
makes considerable grit with the malt. On a small 
scale, malt may be broken by wooden rollers, by 
the hands. 

Steel mills like coffee mills have also been used 
for crushing malt with great success. 

To determine the qnalities of malt. 

First, examine well if it has a round body, 
breaks soft, is full of flour all its length, smefls 
well, and has a thin skin; next chew some of it, 
and if- sweet and mellow, then it is good. If it is 
hard and steely, and retains something of a barley 
nature, it has not been rightly made, and will 
weigh heavier than that which has been properly 
malted. 

Secondly, take a glass nearly full of water; put 
in some malt, and if .t swims, it is good, but if 
«ny sinks to the bottom then it is not true malt. 

Pale malt is the slowest and least dried, produc- 
ing more wort than high dried malt, and of better 
quality. — Amber coloured malt, or that between 
pale and brown, produces a flavour much admired 
in mail)- malt liquors. Brown malt loses much of 
its nutritious qualities, but confers a i)eculiar fla- 
vour desired by many palates. Roasteil malt, after 
the manner of coffee, is used by tiie best London 
brewers, to give colour and flavour to porter, 
which in the first instance has been made from 
pale malt. The most deHcately i oasted malt for 
this purpose is made by Mr Hunt, the proprietor 
of the well known breakfast powder. He ex- 
eludes the atmospheric air, and all effluviae from 
tiie fire, by an apparatus of his own invention, and 
'lence the perfection of his breakfast powder, and 
consequently of his roasted malt. 
To choose hops. 

Rub them between the fingers or the palm of 
the hand, and if good, a rich glutinous substance 
■^'ill be felt, with a fragrant smell, and a fine yel- 
'ow dust will appear, Tiie best colour is a fine 
^live green, but if too green, and the seeds are 
small and shrivelled, they have been nicked too 
soon and will be deficient in flavour. It of a dusty, 
brown colour, they were picked too late, and 
should not be chosen. When a year old, they are 
considered as losing one-fourth in strength. Tlie 
best and dearest is the Farniiam hup; Kast Rents 
are the next, but those of Sussex and Worcester- 
shire arc not so strong 



To determine the proportion betweeji the liquor 
boiled and the ipumtity produced. 

From a smgle quarter, twj barrels of liquor 
will produce but one barrel of wort. Three bar- 
rels will produce one barrel three quarters. Faur 
barrels will produce two barrels and a half. Five 
barrels will produce three barrels and a quarter. 
Six barrels will produce four barrels. - Eight bar- 
rels will produce five barrels and a half, and ten 
barrels will produce seven barrels, and so in pro- 
portion for other quantities. 
To determine the heats of the liquor or water for 

the frst and second mashes on different kinds 

of malt. 

First mash. — For very pale malt turn on the li- 
quor at 176°. For pale and amber mixed, 172°, 
all amber, 170°, high-coloured amber, 168'. An 
equal quantity of pale:, amber, and brown, 160°. 
If the quantity of brown is very dark, or any part 
of the grains charred by the fire upon tlie kiln, 
155°. 

Second mash. — For very pale malt turn on the 
liquor at 182°. For pale and amber mixed, 178°, 
all amber, 176°, high coloured amber, 172°. An 
equal quantity of pale, amber, and brown, 166°. 
If the quantity of brown is very dark, or any pari 
of tlie grains charred by the fire, 164°. 

The heat should in some measure be regulated 
by the temperature of tiie atmosphere, and should 
be two or three degrees higher in cold tlian in 
warm weather. 

The proper degree of heat will give the strong- 
est wort and in the greatest quantity, for though 
the heat were greater and the strength of the wort 
thereby increased, yet a greater quantity of liquor 
would be retained in the malt; and again, if it 
were lower, it would produce more wort, but the 
strength of the extract would be deficient; tlie beer 
without spirit, and likely to turn sour. 

To mash without a thermometer. 

As diminished evaporation takes place on the 
surface of water just before it boils, many practical 
private brewers turn on, as soon as the diminished 
evaporation enables them to see their faces on the 
smooth surface of the water, when it is probablj' 
at about the heat actually used by public brewers, 
who adopt therm'-meters. 

Others use boiling liquor throughout, but lower 
the temperature, by gradual api)lications to the 
malt: thus, they turn a few pailsful of the boiling 
liquor into the mash tub, wliich being thus some- 
what cooled, a quantity of tlie mall is turned in 
and saturated with the water; the mass being then 
considerably lower than the boiling heat, they 
turn without reserve boiling water upon it, which 
being somewhat cooled by the mass, more malt is 
turned in, and so alternately till the whole is 
mixed, which they continue ti raabh for an hour. 
To deta^iiine the strength of the ivorts. 

To effect this a saccViaroiiieter is necessary, and 
may be purchased at any mathematical instrument 
maker's. It determines the relative gravity of 
wort to the water used, and tlie quantity of farina- 
ceous matter contained in the wort. It is used ia 
all public breweries after drawing oft" the worl 
from each mash, and regulates the heat and quan- 
tity of liquor turned on at each succeeding mash, 
that the ultimate strengliiraay be equal though tlie 
quantity is less. I'his signifies little to the pi'ivate, 
but it is of great consequence to the public brewer. 
Those who brew frequently and desire to intro- 
duce it will obtain printed tables and instructions 
with the instrument. 

To proportion the hops. 

l"he usual quantity is a pound to the bushel of 
malt, or eight pounds to the quarter; but for keep* 
ing-beer, it shoiild be extended to ten, or twelve. 



108 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



and if for one or two years, to foMrtcen pounds the 
quarter. Small beer requires frorj three to six 

E' ounds the quarter, and rather more when old 
ops ai-e used. 

Some persons instead of foiling the hops with 
the wort, macerate theio, and put the strong ex- 
tract into the tun with the first wort, and make two 
or three extracts in like manner for the second and 
third worts. 

To boil ivorts. 

The first wort should be sharply hoiled for one 
hour, and the second for two hours. But if intend- 
ed for beer of long-keeping, tie time should be 
extended half an Itour, The hops shauid he strain- 
ed from eacb preceding wort, aud returned into the 
copper with ihe succeeding on". Between tlie 
boilings the fire should be dprnped with wet cin- 
ders, and the copper door set open. 

For small beer only half au hour is necessary 
for the first wort, 1 hour for the second, and 2 
hours for the third. The diraimition from boiling 
is from one-eighth to one-slxteetith. 
To cool the ivorts. 

Worts should belaid so sha'i^ow as to cool with- 
in SIX or seven hours to the tcmperaiurc of sixty 
degrees. In warm weather, the deptii should not 
exceed two or three inches; but in coJd weather it 
may be five inches. As soon as they have fallen 
to 60 degrees, they should instantly be tunned and 
yeasted. 

To choose heats for tunning. 

In cold v/cather, the heats in the coolers should 
be five or six degrees higher than in mild and 
-warm weather. For ale, in cold weather, it should 
be tunned as soon as it has fallen to sixty degrees 
in the coolers; for porter, to sixty-four degrees; 
smd for table beer to sevonty-four; and in warm 
weather, strong beer should be four or five degrees 
less, and taolebeer seven or eight degrees. Care 
should be also taken that the worts do not get cold 
liefore the yeast is mixed to produce fermentation. 
The bestriile for mixing the yeast is a pound and a 
half to every barrel of strong beer wort, and a 
pound to evei-y barrel of table beer woit. 
To nux ihe yeast laith the -worts. 

Ale brewed for keeping in winter shovdd be no 
more than blood warm when the yeast is put to it. 
If it is intended for immediate drinking, it may be 
yeasted a little warmer. The best method of 
mixing the yeast is to take two or thi'ee quarts of 
the hot water wort in a wooden bowl or pan, to 
which when cool enough, put yeast enough to work 
the brewing: generally one or two quarts to the 
hogshead, according to its quality. In this bowl 
or pan the fermentation will conunence while the 
rest of the worts are cooling, when the whole may 
be mixed together. 

To apportion ye>..st and apply it to the ivorts. 
The yeast of strong beer is preferable to that 
from small be^r, and it should be fresh .-iid good. 
The quantity should be diminished with the tem- 
perature at which the worts are tunned, and less 
in summer than in winter. For strong beer, a 
quart of yeast per quarter will be sufiicient it 58 
degrees, 'but less wlien the worts are higlier, and 
when the weather is hot. If estimated by tlie 
more accurate criterion of weight, 1| pounds 
should be used for a baiTel of strong beer, and l^ 
pounds for a barrel of small beer. If the fermen- 
tation does not commence, add a little more yeast, 
and rouse the worts for some time. But if ttsey 
"■et cold, and the fermentation is slow, fill a bottle 
with hot water and put it i-nto tlie tun. 

In cold weather small beer should be tunned at 
70 degrees, keeping beer at 56 degrees, and strong 
beer at 5i iegrees. In mild weather at 50 de- 



grees for eacli sort. The fermentation will in 
crease the heat 10 degrees. 

To manage' the fermentation. 

A proportion of the yeast should be added t9 
the first wort as soon as it is let down from the 
coolers, and the remainder as soon as the second 
wort is let down. 

Ihe commencement of fermentation is indicated 
by a line of small bubbles round the sides of the 
tun, which in a short time extends over tlie sur- 
face. A crusty bead follows, and then a fine rocky 
one, folloM'ed by a light frothy iiead. In the last 
stage, the head assumes a yeasty appearance, and 
the colour is yellow or brown, the smell of the tun 
becoming strongly vinous. As soon as this head 
begins to fall, tlie tun should be skimmed, and the 
skimming continued every two hours till no more 
yeast appears; this closes the operation, and it 
should then be put into casks, or, in technical lan- 
guage, cleansed. A minute attention to every 
stage of this process is necessary to secure fine fla- 
voured, and brilliant beverage. Should the fer- 
mentation be unusually slow, it should be accele- 
rated by stirring or rousing the whole. After the 
first skimming, a small quantity of salt and flour, 
well mixed, snould be stirred in the tun. The fer- 
mentation will proceed in the casks, to encourage 
which, the bung-hoie should be placed a hitle 
aside, and the casks kept full, by being filled up 
from time to time with old beer. 'When thister- 
mentation has ceased, tlie casks may be bunged up. 
To accelei ate the fermenialion. 

Spread some flour with the hand over the sur- 
face, and it will form a crust, and keep the worts 
warm; — or thmw in au ounce or two ot powdered 
ginger;— or, fill a bottle with boiling water, and 
sink it in the worts;— or, heat a small quantity ot 
the worts and throw into the itsl;— rr, beat up the 
wliites of two eggs with some brandy, and. throw 
it into the tun or cask;— or, tie up some bian in a 
coarse thin cloth and put it into the vat; and above 
all things do not disturb the wort, as ieimentation 
will not commence during any agitation of the 
wort. 

To check a too raj id fermentation. 

Mix some cold raw wort in the tun, or divide 
the whole between two tuns, where, by being in 
smaller body, the energy of the fermentation of 
the whole v.'ill be divided. Also, open the doors 
and windows of the brew-house; — but, if it still 
frets, sprinkle some cold water over it; — or, it it 
frets in the cask, put in a mixture of a quarter of a 
pound of sugar, with a handful of salt, to the 
hogshead. 

To breiv porter on the Londo7i system. 

Thames or New River water is indift'erently 
used, or hard water, raised intopscks, and exposed 
for a few days to the air. 

Take a mixture of brown, amber and pale malts, 
nearly in equal quantities, and turn them into the 
mash-tub in this order. Turn on the first liquor 
at 165 degrees; mash one hour, and then coat the 
whole with dry malt. In one hour set the tap. 

Mix 10 lbs. of brown hops to the quarter of malt, 
half old, half new; boil the first wort briskly with 
the hops, for three quarters of an hour, and atter 
putting into the ccpper 1^ lbs. of sugar, at.d 1^ lbs. 
of Leghorn juice (extract of liquorice), to the bar- 
rel, turn the whole into the coolers, rousing the 
wort all the lime. 

Turn on the second liquor at 174 degrees, and 
in an hour set tap again. I'his second wort having 
run oft", turn on again at 145 degrees; mash for au 
hour, and stand for the same; in the mean-time 
boiling the second wort with the same hops for an 
hour. Turn th«;se into the coolers as Uibre, and 



BREWING. 



109 



let down into the tub at 64 degrees, mixing the 
yeast as it comes dovrn. Cleanse the second day 
at 80 decrees, previously throwitiij in a mixture of 
flour and salt, and rousing thoroughly. 

For private use, every (juarter of malt ought to 
yield two barrels and a half, but ^rewers would 
run three barrels to a quarter. 

AnMhcr method — Tlie foUo'ving ai-ticle is to be 
eousidered as ap-<!icable when not less than 50 
qu.irters of malt are used. 

' The liquor for the first mash should be heated 
in the copper to 150 degrees, ia ilic proportio.u of 
t'AO barrels to each quarter of malt, which is to be 
an equal mixture of pale am!)er and brown malts. 
These are raasheu about three quarters of au hour^ 
the liquor is thef"- allowed to stand on the goods 
an hour. The top of the nir.sh tun is next opened 
to let off the liquor as quickly as possible; and the 
top is to be left open till the next li<iuor is brought 
into the tun, that tlie goods may drain. During 
this, the second liquor has been heating, and may 
at two hours and three (piarters, or three h>urs 
from the beginning, have acquired tiie lieat of tfiO 
degrees, the quantity being one barrel to a quai-ter 
of malt. Mash this half, for thi-ee quarters of a:i 
hour; let it stand one hour, and then let it it be run 
off in the course of hajf an hour raore; at about five 
hours and a lialf from the begiaiiing, the third 
mash should be made at ISO deg'-ees; tlie quantity 
being one barrel to the quarter. .Mash this half 
an hour, let it stand one hour, and tap as before. 

A fourth liquor is seldom uiasbed, ijut if it is, it 
may be cold or blood warm, as it :s of no use but 
to make the sour beer for finings, and it is of little 
consequence how it is done. Some brewers use it 
for the first liquor of the next brewing, out this is 
riot perhaps a good plan, as it often bec:-'mes foxed, 
and then it taints the whole brewing. These worts 
are to be boiled with from 12 to 14 -pounds of hops to 
the quarter of malt, if ths liquor is intended far 
keeping 8 or 12 months, but in the ordinary run 
of porter, not intended for keeping, 5 lbs. may be 
sufficient. The first wort should be boiled one 
liour, the second two hours, atid the tiiird four 
hours. 

The worts are now to l>e cooled down as 'jcpe- 
ditiou^ly as the weather will permit, to about 60 
degrees, if the medium heat of the atmosphere is 
about 60 degrees; if it is more or less, allowance 
must be made as before directed. All tlie tliree 
worts are to be brought into the square together, 
and about five pints of 3'east to tlie quarter ^f malt 
put in; the proportion of colouring is arbitrary, as 
it depends upon the colour of the mait. 
To brevi three barrels of porter. 

Take 1 sack of pale malt, \ a sack of amber do. 
and^a sack of brown do. 

Turn on two barrels for first mash at 165 de- 
grees; — second mash, one barrel and a half at 172 
degrees; — third mash, two barrels, at 142 degrees. 
Boil It) lbs. of new and old hops, and 2 oz. of por- 
ter extract, in the first wort. Cool, ferment, and 
cleanse according to the previous instructions. 
To bre-iv porter on JVlr Morrice^s plan. 

Commence at five o'llook in the morning; ther- 
mometer in the air 34 degrees. Take of West 
country pale malt, 3 ([uarters, Herts pale malt, 6 
quarters, Herts brown malt, 8 quarters, Herts am- 
Der malt, 8 quarters, hops, 1 cwt. 2 quarters, Leg- 
horn juice, 30 lbs. porter extract, 4 lbs. 

Charge the first great copper -.vith 52 barrels, and 
raise to 155 degrees. Mash for one hour, and set 
the tap at 7 o'clock, at 137 degrees. 

Charge copper with 36 barrels, and raise to 160 
degrees. Mash, and set tap at 14S degrees. Boil 
first wort. 

Charge copper for third mash with 59 barrels, 



and raise to 150 degrees. Slash a quarter of an 
hour, and set tap -tt 1.32 degrees; boil second worf 
an hour and a hilf. Tun at 64 degrees. Cleanse 
in two days 88 ban-els. 

JBroisn stout. 

The procedure is the same Jis in the preceding 
article, except that o'.ie t'lird, or one hall the malt 
should be brown. 

Jyjnd'/n ale. 

Almost every eoiv.uy in liLngland has its variety 
of ale, biit the diflerence conyists eliicfly (the same 
quantity of malt an^ hops being used) in the pre- 
paration of the malt. "Sv^ater niay, in some cases, 
varv in quality, the boiling may be longer or 
shorter, or the liquor may be turned on at a differ- 
ent heat; but these varieties being cdisidercd, one 
general process serves for the whole. Tor good 
ale, the maU and hops should be of the best quali- 
ty. For immediate use, the malt siiould be all 
pale; but if brewed for keeping, or in warn wea- 
ther, one fourth should be amber malt. Six i)Ounds 
of Kentish hops should be used to the c^uaiter, or 
10 lbs. for keeping ale. 

To bre~iV two barrels from a quarter of malt. 

In the brewing of one quarter, turn on two bar- 
rels at 175 degrees; mash one hour: and let it stand 
for the same time. 

For second mash, turn on one barrel at 160 de- 
grees. Mash one hour and stand one hour; boil 
the' first wort briskly for one hour; and boil the se- 
cond two hours, or till the v/hola is two bairels. 
Cool down to 60 degrees and tun. Cleanse on the 
4tl'. day at 72 degrees, previously mixing two ounces 
of ginger, ^ au ounce of salt, and a handful of flour. 

Keep the working tun closely covered, and just 
before the bead begins to faU., shim the tup, and 
rouse in the rest. When the blebs are largo and 
on the fret, rouse in \ an ounce of salt (;f taitar, a 
handful of malted bean-fiour, aiul some fresh yeast, 
after which it will ferment more kindly, aid the 
cieynsiug may soon follow, with the cew head on. 
Take care to fill up the cask wliile woriiing, and 
before bunging put a handful of scalded hops into 
each. Sometimes the fermentation is ' onducted 
by skimming, as soon as the head bears a yeasty 
appearance: then by skimming and routing as often 
as other heads arise, till no other heac' appears. 

Gr, cleansing may take place without skimming 
or rousing, as soon as the head jegins to fall, tak- 
ing care, by means of a pipe rising within tlie tun, 
that the yeast docs n.jt pass into the barrels. The 
quantity of hops boiled in the wort should vary ac- 
cording to the intention. Sis pounds will suffice 
for ale for present use. 

In the above instance a barrel and a quarter of 
liquor at 150 degrees may afterwards be tunned foi 
a barrel of table beer. 

2 CI bre-u) ale in small families. 

A bushel and three quarters of ground malt, and 
a pound of hops, are sufficient to make 18 gallons 
of^good family ale. That the saccharine matter of 
the malt may be extracted by infusion, without the 
farina, the temperature of the water stio'dd not ex- 
ceed 155 or 160 'leg. Fahrenheit's thermometer. 
The quantitj' ot water shoutd be poured on the 
malt as speedily as possible, and the vk-hole being 
well mixed together by active stirring, the vessel 
should be closely covered oxer for au hour; if the 
weather be cold, for an hour and a half. If hard 
water be employed, it should be boiled, and the 
temperatm'e allowed, by exposure to the atmo- 
sphere, to fall to 155 or 160 degrees Fahrenheit; 
but if rain water is used, it may be added to the 
malt as soon as it arrives to 155 degrees. .Diuring 
the time this process is going on, the hops should 
be infused in a close vessel. In as much boiling 
water as will cover them, for two ho\irs. The lU 



110 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



quor may then be sqtieezed out, and kept closely 
covered. 

The hops should tlien be boiled for about ten 
minutes, m double the quantity of water obtained 
from the infused hop, andtlie strained liquor, when 
cold, may be added with the infusion, to the wort, 
when it has fallen to the temperature of 70 deg. 
The object of infusing tlie hop in a close vessel 
previously to boiling, is to preserve the essential 
oii of the hop, which renders it more sound, and, 
at the same time, more wholesome. A pint cf good 
thick yeast should be well stirred into the mixture 
of wort and hops, and covered over in a place of 
the temperature of 55 deg. Fahrenheit; and when 
the fermentation is completed, the liquor may be 
drawn off into a clean cask previously rinsed with 
boiling water. Wlien the slow fermentation which 
will ensue has ceased, tlie cask should be loosely 
bunged for two days, when, if the liquor be left 
quiet, the bung i.iay be properly fastened. The 
pale malt is the best, because, when highly dried, 
it does not afford so much saccharine matter. If 
the malt be new, it should be exposed to the air, 
in a dry room, for two days previously to its being 
used; but if it be old, it may be used in 12 or 20 
)»ours after it is groun<l. The great difference 
.« the flavour of ale, made by ditferent brewers, 
appears to arise from their employing different 
s^.ecies of the hop. 

Another method of brewing ale. 

For 36 gallons, take of malt (usually pale), 2^ 
tjusnels, sugar, 3 lbs. just boiled to a colour, bops, 
1 lbs. ii oz. coriander seeds, I oz. capsicum, ^ a 
drachm. 

Work it 2 or 3 days, beating it well up once or 
twice a day; when it begins to fall, cleanse it by 
adding a haiulful of salt, and some wheat-flour. 
Table beer only, from pale malt. 

The first mash siiould be at ITO deg. viz. two 
oarrels per (luarter; let it stand on the grains ihree- 
fjuarters of an hour in hot weather, oi' one hour if 
■iold. Second mash, 145 deg., at 1^ barrels per 
quarter, stands half an hour. Third, 1G5 deg., two 
iarrels per quartf-r, stands half an hour. Fourth, 
130 deg., three barrels, stands two liours. The 
first wort to be boiled with 6 lbs. of hops per quar- 
ter, for an hour and a half, the second wort to be 
boiled with the same hops two hours, and the re- 
mainder three hours. The whole to be now heat- 
ed as low as 55 deg., if the weather permits, and 
put to work with about 5 pints "f yeast per quar- 
ter; it the weather is too warm to get them down 
to 55 deg., a less proportion will be sufficient. The 
eight barrels of liquor first used, will be reduced 
to six of beer to each quarter; one barrel being left 
in the grains, and another evaporated in boiling, 
cooling, and working. 

Table beer from stigar. 

To 4 pounds of coarse brown sugar, add 10 gal- 
lons of water, then put in three ounces of hops, and 
let the whole boil for three quarters of an hour, and 
work it as usual. It should be kept a week or ten 
days before it is tapped, when it will improve daily 
afterwards, within a moderate time of consump- 
tion. 

Table beer from treacle. 

Another method, and for a smaller quantity, is, 
to put a pound of trtacle to eight quarts of boiling 
water: add two bay-lehves, and a quarter of an 
ounce of ginger in powder. Boil the whole for 
fifteen minutes, then let it become cool, and work 
it with yeast. 

Another method. — For ten barrels. Take of 
malt, 8 bushels, hops, 8 pi.iunds, sugar, 8 pounds 
made into colour, Spani^i iiquorice, 8 oz. ti-eacle, 
10 lbs. Proceed as abovi.. 



Me and small beer on Mr CobheVa plan. 
Utensils. 

These are first, a copi)er, costing 51. that will 
contain at least 40 gallot\s. 

Second, a raashing-tub, costing 30s. to contain 
60 gallons; for the malt is to be m this along wil'.i 
the water. It must be a little broader at top than 
at bottom, and not quite so deep as it is wide 
across the bottom. In the middle of the bottom there 
is a hole about two inches over, to draw the wort off. 
Into this h'lAe goes a stick a foot or two longer 
thavi the tub is high. This stick is to be about two 
inches through, and tapered for about eight inches 
upwards, at the end that goes in+o the hole, which 
at last it fills up as closely as a cork. Before any 
thing else is put into the tub, lay a little bundle of 
fine birch about half the bulk of a birch broom, 
and weH tied at both ends. This being laid over 
the hole (to keep back the grains as the wort goes 
out) put the tapered end of the stick down through 
it into the tiole, and thus cork the whole up. Then 
have something of weight sufficient to keep the 
birch steady at the bottom of the tub, with a hole 
through it to slip down the stick; the best thing 
for this purpose will be a leaden collar for the stick, 
with the hole large enough, and it should weigh 3 
or 4 pounds. 

Third, an underback, or shallow tub, costing 25^. 
to go under the mash-tub for the wort to run into 
when drawn from the grains. 

Fourth, a tun-tub, that will contain 30 gallons, 
to put the ale into to work, the mash-tub serving 
as a tun-tub for the small beer. Besides these a 
couple of coolers, or shallow tubs, about a toot 
deep; or, if there are four it may be as well, in or- 
der to effect the cooling more quickly? the whole 
costing 9,5s. 

Process of breiuing the ale. 

Begin by filling the copper with water, and next 
by making the water foil. Then put into the 
mashing-tub water sufficient to stir and separate 
the malt. The degree of heat that the water is to 
be at, before the malt is put in, is one hundred and 
seventy degrees by the thermometer: but, without 
one, take thisrule: when you can, looking down into 
the tub, see your face clearly in the water, the wa- 
ter is hot enough. Now put in the malt and stir it 
well in the water. In this state it should continue 
for about a quarter of an hour. In the meanwhile 
fill up the copper, and make it boil; and then put 
in boiling water sufficient to give eighteen gallons 
of ale. 

When the pi'oper quantity of water is in, stir the 
malt again well, and cover the mashing-tub over 
with sacks, and there let the mash stand for two 
hours: then fh-aw off the wort. The raashing-tub 
is placed on a couple of stools, so as to be able to 
put the underback under it, to receive the wort, as 
It comes out of the hole. When ihe underback is 
put in its place, let out the wort by pulling up the 
stick that corks the hole. But, observe, this stick 
(which goes six or eight inches through the hole) 
must be raised by degrees, and the wort must be 
let out slowly in'order to keep back the sediment. 
So that it is necessary to have something to keep 
the stick up at the point where it is to be raised, 
and fixed at for the time. To do this the simplest 
thing is a stick across the mashing-tun. 

As the ale- wort is drawn off into the small un- 
derback, lade it out of that into the tun-tub; put 
the wort into the copper, and add a pound and a 
half of good hops, well rubbed and separated as 
they are put in. Now make the copper boil, and 
keep it, with the lid off, at a good brisk boil for a 
full hour, or an hour and a half. When the boil- 
ing is done, put the liquor into the coolers; but 



Brewing. 



Ill 



strain out the hops in a smal.' clothes-basket, or 
v/icker-!jasket. Now set the coolers in the most 
convenient place, in doors or out of doors, as most 
convenient. 

The next stage is the tun-tub, where the liquor 
is set to work. A great point is, the degree ofheat 
tliat the li(iuor is to be at, when it is set to work. 

I'lie proper heat is seventy degrees ; so that a 
thermometer makes the matter sure. In the coun- 
try they determine the degree of iieat by merely 
putting a finger into the liijuor. 

When cooled to the proper heat, put it into the 
tui\-tub, and i)ut in about half a pint of good yeast. 
But the yeast should first be put into half a gallon 
of the li(|uor, and mixed well; stirring in with the 
yeast a liandful of wheat or rye-flour. This mix- 
ture is then to he poured out clean into the tun- 
tub, and the mass of the liquor agitated well, till 
tlie yeast be well mixed witli the whole. When 
the liquor is thus prope.ly put into th" tu.i-tub and 
set a workmg, cover over the top, by laying a sack 
or two across it. . 

The tun-tub should stand in a place neillier too 
warm nor too cold. Any cool place in summer, 
and any warm place in winter, and if the weather 
be very cold, some cloths or sacks should be put 
round tiie tun-tub while the beer is working. In 
about six or eight hoiu-s a frothy head will rise 
upon the liciuor; and it will keep rising, more or 
less slowly', for 48 hours. The best way is to take 
oft' the froth, at the end of about 24 hours, with a 
common skimmer, and in 12 hours take it off again, 
■and so on, till the liquor has done -working, and 
sends up no more yeast. Then it is beer; and, 
when it is quite cold, (for ale ov strong beer,) put 
it into the cask by means oi-A funnel. It must be 
sold before this is done, or it will he foxed; that 
IS, have a rank and disagreeable taste. 

The cask shoidd lean a little on one side when 
iilling it, because the beer will tvork again, and 
•^end more yeast out of tiie bung hole. Something 
will go off in this luorking, which may continue for j 
two or three days, so that when the beer is putting | 
in the cask, a gallon or two should be left, to keep | 
filling up with as the working produces emptiness. 
.\t last, when the working is completely over, 
block the cask up to its level. Put in a handful of 
fresh hops; fill the cask quite full and bung it 
tight, with a bit of coarse linen round the bung. 

When the cask is empty, great care must be taken 
to cork it tightly up, so that no air gets in; for, if 
»o, the cask is moulded and spoiled fur ever. 
7 7ie small beer. 

Tliirty-six gallons of boiling water are to go into 
tlie mashing-tuh; the grains are to be well stirred 
vp, as befoi-e; the mashing-tub is to be covered 
/)ver, and the mash is to stand in that state for aii. 
hour; then draw it off into the tun-tub. 

By this time the copper will be empty again, ))y 
putting the ale liquor to cool. New put tne small 
beer wort into the copper witli ihe hojjs used before, 
and -with half a pound of fresh hops added to them; 
and tliis liquor boil briskly for an hour. 

Take the grains and the sediment clean out of 
the mashing-tub, put the birch twigs in again, and 
put down the stick as before. Put the basket over, 
and take the liquor from the copper (putting the 
fire out first) and pour it into tlie mashing-tub 
through the basket. I'ake the basket away, throw 
the hops to tiie dunghill, and leave the small beer 
liquor to cool in the masldng-tub. 

Here it is to remain to be set to working; only, 
more yeast will be wanted in proportion ; and there 
should be for 36 gallons of small beer, three lialf 
pints of good yeast. 

Proceed now, as with the ale, only, in the case 
of the small beer, it should be put into cask, not 



quite cold; but & little warm ; or else it will not 
work in the barrel, which it ought to do. It will 
not work so strongly nor so long as ale; and may 
be pUv into the barrel much sof>ner; in general the 
next day after it is brewed. 

All the utensils shouM be well cleaned and put 
away as soon as they are done with. " 1 am now," 
says Mr Cobbet, "in a farm house, where the 
same sei of utL'iisils have been used i^ov forty years; 
and the- owner tells me, that they may last im- forty 
years longer. " 

To brexv ale and porter from sugar and malt. 
To every quarter of malt take 100 pounds of 
brown sugar, and in the result, it will be found 
that tiie sugar is equal to the malt. The quarter 
of malt is to be bi-ewed with the same proi)orlions, 
as though it were two quarters; and sugar is to be 
put into the tun, and the first wort let down upon 
it, rousing the whole well together. 

The other worts are tlien to be let down, and the 
fermentation and other processes carried on as in 
the brewing of malt. 

To brew four bushels of malt, with only one copper, 
mash-tub, and cooler. 
If the mash-tub holds two barrels, it is better 
than a smaller one, that there may be room enough 
tor mashing; in such a one fix a brass cock of three 
quarters of an inch bore, let it be a plugatid bas- 
ket. Use soft water (^for brown or amber malt), 
covered with three or tour handsful of malt or bran, 
if the water is thoroughly clear; if not, juit as much 
salt as will lie on a crown-piece, into a copper that 
holds a* least one barrel, containing 36 gallons; 
and as it heats and the scum rises, take it oii'before 
it boils in. Then, M'lien it begins to boil, lade two 
pailsful first into tlie mash-tub, and put two pails- 
ful of cold water into the copper in their room, and 
just boil all again; then convey all tlie hot water 
into the mash-tnb, and when the face can be seen 
in it, mix the malt a little at a time. Wash, and 
let all stand two hours under a cover of cloths; at 
the end of wh.ch run a drizzling stream., and faster 
by degrees, on a few hops, to secure it. While 
the first wort is standing and running oft", another 
cojiper must boil to clean vessels, and what is used 
this way is to be supplied by adding more cold 
water, and boiling it again, two pailsful of which 
are to be thrown on the grains, as the first wort 
runs off. These four pailsful of hot water are al- 
lowed for the malt to absorb, being a bucket to 
e«ch bushel, and thus the brewer has nearly a full 
barrel of first wort come off, which is to be boiled 
with half a pound of hops till it breaks, first into 
very small particles, and then into larger, till the 
fiakes are as large as wheat chaff. As soon as the 
first wort has run off from the mash-tub, the secontl 
copper of boiling water is to be put over the grains 
and mashed. This is to stand one hour before it is 
begun to be dischargetl; and while this is standing 
and running oft", the tirst wort is to be boiled and 
jiut into coolers, and a third copper of only heated 
water is to be thrown over the grains, as soon as 
the second wort is spent off, which also is to be 
mashed. 

While thi.s is standing for one hour, and then 
run off, boil the second wort with half a pound of 
fresh hops, till it breaks intc small particles, and 
immediately after boil the third copper, with 4 
ounces of fresh hops during one hour, for this last 
woi't is too meagre to show its time by breaking. 

Uy this method, in a barrel copper, may be boil- 
ed thirty-one gallons of neat first wort, which is to 
be cooled, worked, and then put into two kilder- 
kins, one of entire ale, but the second a little 
weaker on account of having had five gallons of the 
second wort put into it to fill it up. Besides this, 
the brewer will have a liogshead of good small beer^ 



112 



UNIVEUSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



rrtUJe with the second and thh-d coppers of after- 
wotts. 

To brew Welch ale. 

Take 3 (luaners of the best pale malt, 25 Ihs. of 
liops, 7 lbs. of sugar, and | lb. grains uf jjaradise. 

Turn ou the first li'^uor at 178 degrees. Mash 
for an hour and a half, anci stand two iiours. Turn 
ou second liquor at 190 degrees, and stand two 
hours. l?oil an Iiour and a half, and put in the 
sugar just before turning into the coolers. Pitch 
the tun at G2 degrees and put in the liquorice root. 
Cleanse at 80 degrees, using salt and flour. 

After the second mash, turn on foi- table beer at 
150 degrees. Mash three quarters of an hour, and 
stand tuo hours. 

'i'o breiv BurLon ale. 

Ot this strong ale, only a barrel and a half is 
d"Hwn from a quarter, at 180 degrees for the first 
iDftsh, and 190 degrees fortt.'e second, followed by 
a gyl^ of table beer. It is tunned at 58 degrees, 
and cleansed at 72 degrees. The Jjurton bi-ewers 
use tiio finest pale nia!t, and grind it a day or two 
i)efure being used. Tliey employ Kentish hops, 
from six to eight pounds per quarter. 
I'o brew Ringwood ale. 

This brewing prodm.es two barrels and a half 
from the quarter. The best pale malt and pocket 
hop^ are used at the rate of six pounds to the quar- 
ter. Turn on first Uiash at 18U degrees, and second 
iiash at 190 degrees. Pitch the tun at CO degrees, 
i.nd cleanse at 80 degrees. ?ilash successively one 
hour, and three quarters of an hour, standing an 
hour and a half, and two hours. Add in tlie tun 
two pounds of yeast for every barrel, and coat with 
salt and flour after the first skimming. 

After the second mash, turn on for table beer, at 
150 degrees. 

To bmv JVottingham ale in the small ivatj. 

The first copperful of boiling water is to be put 
into the mash-tub, liieie to lie a ([uarter of an hour, 
till the steum is far spent; or as soon as the hoc 
water is put in, throw into It a pail or two of cold 
water, which will bring it at once to a proper tem- 
perature; then let t!u-ec bushels of maitr-ui leisure- 
ly into it, and stir or mash all the while, but no 
more tiian just to keep the mall from clolliug or 
balling; when that is dor>e, put one bushel of dry 
malt at the lop, and let it stand covered two hours, 
or till the next copperful of water is boiled, then 
lade over the mail three hand-bowlsful at a time. 
These run ofl' at the <■ ock or lap by a very small 
stream before more is put on, wliich again must be 
returned into the masu-tub tiil it comes off exceed- 
ingly fine. Tlds slow way lakes sixteen hours in 
brewing four bushels of malt. Between the lad- 
ings, put cold water into the copper to boil, while 
the other is running off; uy this means, the copper 
.s kept up nearly full, and the cock is kept rua- 
nirg to the end uf the brewing. Only Iwenty-cne 
gallons must be saved of the first wort, which is 
reserved in a tub, wherein four ounces of hops aie 
put, and then it is to be set by. 

For the second wort there are twenty gallons of 
water in the copper boiling which must be hided 
>vei' in the same manner as the former, but no cold 
ft'ater need be mixed. When hulf of this is run 
out into a tub, it must be directly put into the cop- 
per with half of the first wort, strained through the 
brewing sieve as it lies on a small loose wooden 
frame over the eoppei-, in order to keep those hops 
that were first put in to preserve it, which is to 
make the first copper twenty-one gallons. Then, 
upon its beginning to boil, put in a pound of hops 
in one or two canvass bag3, somewhat larger than 
will jusl coPtaia the hops, that an allowance may 
be given for their swell; this boil very briskly for 
half an hoar, w lieu talce tlie hop? out and continue 



boilinp; the wort by itself till it breaks into particles 
a little ragged; it is thon done, and must be dis- 
persed into the cooling tubs very shallow. Put 
the remainder of the first ancl second wort togethei-, 
and boil it in the same manner, and with the same 
qv:-..ntity of fresh hops, as the fiist. 

By this method of brewing, ale may be made as 
strong or as small as is thought fit, and so may the 
small beer that comes aftci-. 

I'o bre^u Dorchester ale. 

Boil the water, and let it stand till the face can 
be seen in it; then put the malt in by degrees, and 
stir it; let it stand two hoi.rs; then turn on tlie 
proper complement. Boil the woi't and hops 
thirty minutes; cool it as soon as possible, stirring 
it so that the l)Ottoms may be mingled; then set it 
in the gyle-tun, until it gathers a head, wiiieh must 
be skimmed off; then put in tlie yeast, and work it 
till the head falls; then cleanse it, keeping the cask 
filled up so long as it will work. 

The malts used are l-3d pale, and 2-,Sds amber, 
with six or seven poun'ls of ho[)S to the quarter. 
By the thermometer, the heat of the first liquor is 
170 degrees, and of the second 1 80 degrees, and the 
produce is two barrels per quarter. 
I'o brerv Essex ale. 

Procure two mashing-lubs, one that w ill mash 
4 bushels, and the other 2, and a coi>{)er that holds 
Jialf a hogshead. The water, when boiled, is put 
into the largest tul;, and a pail of cold water imme- 
diately on tliat: llien put the malt in by a hand- 
bowlful at a time, stirring it all the while, and so 
on in a greater quantity by degrees; (for the danger 
of balling is mostly at first) till at last half a bushel 
of dry malt is left for a top-cover: thus let it stand 
three hours. In the mem while, anotlier copper 
of water is directly heated, and put as before into 
the other mash-lub, for mashing two bushels of 
malt, which stands that time. Then, after ihe wort 
of the four bushels is run off, let that also of the 
two bushel.T s[)end, and lade it over the fom- bush- 
els, the cock running all llie while, and it will 
make in all a copper and a liaif of wort, v.'hich is 
boiled at twice; that is, when the first copper is 
boiled an hour, or till it breaks into large flakes, 
then take half out, a'ld put the remaining raw wort 
to it, and boil it about half an h.our till it is broke. 
Now, while the two worts are running off, a cop- 
per of water almost scalding hot is matie ready, and 
put over the goods or grains of both tubs; after 
an Inur's standing the cock is turned, and this se- 
cond wort is boiled away, and put over the grains 
of both tubs to stand an hour; when off, it is put 
into the copper and boiled again, and tiien serves 
hot insteail of the first water, for mashing four 
bushels of fresh malt; after it has again lain tlnee 
hours, and is spent off, it is boiled; but vhile \v 
the rnash tub, a copper of v^aler is lieated to p.. 
over the goods or grains which stands an hour, auf. 
is then boiled for small-jjeer. And thus ma)- be 
brewed 10 bushels of malt with 2 pounds and a h-!f 
of hops for the whole. 

Tu brezu Barnstable ale. 

Boil the wat -i-, then throw two pails of cold into 
the mash-tun, and afterwards the boiling water; 
then immediately put in the malt, half a bushel at 
a time. After stirring it till all is soaked, cap il 
with malt oi' bran, and cover it close to stand three 
hours, then see if the mash is sunk in the middle, 
v\ hich it will sometimes do, and when it docs, it 
shows the strength, and must be filled level with 
boiling water to stand half an hour after, when it 
is to be run off in a goose quill stream, which is to 
be returned upon the grains again, by a bowl or 
pailful at a time, as far back as possible from the 
cock; for tlien the liquor strains through the body 
of the grains, and at last comes very tine. Othei - 



BREWING. 



113 



wise the th'ck parts are forced down to the cock. 
This is called doubling; continue to do so for half 
an hour, then stop, and let it stand half an hour 
longer in winter, but not in summer. Then rub 
four pounds of hops very fine into the sieve for the 
wort to run off; do not draw it off too near before 
lading over more boiling water out of the copper. 
This is to be continued till the whole quantity of 
ale wort is obtained, which, with all the hops, is 
to be boiled till the liquor breaks or curdles. Now 
empty all into large earthen Long pans or coolers. 
This work,when cold, with the same hops altogether 
thus: put a little yeast (as little as possible), and 
that not a day old, to a quantity, and mix that with 
all the rest to work twelve or fourteen hours, and 
then strain it directly into the barrel, where keep 
filling it until it is done working. 

To bre-w Edinburgh ale. 

Adopt the best pale malt. 

1st. Mash two barrels per quarter, at 183 deg. 
(170); mash three quarters of an hour, let it stand 
one hour, and allow half an hour to run oft the 
wort. 

2d. Mash one barrel per quarter, at 190 deg. 
(183); mash three quarters of an hour, let it stand 
three quarters of an hour, and tap as before. 

3d. Mash one barrel per quarter, at 160 deg.; 
mash half an hour, let it stand half an hour, and 
tap as before. 

The first and second wort may be mixed toge- 
ther, boiling them about an hour or an hour and a 
quarter, with a quantity of hops {--roportioned to 
the time the beer is intended to be kept. 

The two first may be mixed at the heat of 60 or 
65 deg. in the gyle-t'in, and the second should be 
fermented separately tor small beer. 
To breu) Windsor ale. 

Take 5 quarters of the best pale malt, half a cwt. 
of hops, 8 lbs. of honey, 1 lb. of coriander seed, 
half lb. of grains of paradise, half lb. of orange 
peel, and two and a half lbs. of ground liquorice 
root. 

The hops should be of the best kind, and soaked 
»11 night in cold liquor. Turn on at 180 deg. 
mash thoroughly an hour and a quarter, and stand 
an hour. Boil one hour. 

Turn on second liquor at 195 deg. and stand 
three quarters of an hour. Boil three hours. 

Turn on third liquor at 165 deg. mash three 
quarters of an hour, and stand the same. Pitch 
the tun at 60 deg. and cleanse at 80 on the third 
day. Skim as soon as a close yeasty head appears, 
until no yeast arises. Half a pound of hops per 
quarter should be roused in, and the whole left to 
settle. Also rouse in six ounces of salt, half a 
pound of flour, six ounces of ground ginger, and 
six ounces of ground cai-away seed. 

The drugs above mentioned are forhidden, 
under the penalty of two hundred pounds, and the 
forfeiture of all utensils; hut of course private fa- 
milies are at liberty to use whatever they please. 
Nothing hut malt and hops are permitted to public 
brewers, except the colouring extract; and drug- 
gists who sell to brewers are subject to a penalty 
of five hundred pounds. 

Windsor a!e yields about 2^ h^rels to the quar- 
ter. 

"o brew with JVeedhaia^s portable machine, by 
■which the malt is boiled viithout mashing. 

The saving, by brewing one bushel of malt, is 
above half. 

The machine being placed ready for use, put the 
malt into the cylitider, (taking care none goes into 
die centre nor betvveen the cylinder and outside 
boiler), add fourteen gallons of cold water to each 
bushel of malt, then light the fire, and raise the 
Jiijuor to 180 degrees of heat, as soon as possible, 



which must be ascertamed by oipt^.'i.g the thermo- 
meter one minute into the liquor. Stir the malt 
well up with a mashing stick, or mashing iron, for 
ten minutes, to divide every particle of malt from 
each other, keeping the heat irora 170 to 180 de- 
grees for two hours (to prevent the liquor from 
being over heated, damp the fire with wet ashes, 
and leave the door open); then draw off tiie wort 
very gently (that it may run fine) into one of the 
coolers, and put all the hops (rubbing them to 
break the lumps) on the top of the wort, to keep it 
hot till the lime for returning it into the machine. 
Having drawn off the ale wort, put into the mp- 
chine ten gallons of cold water to each bushel of 
malt. Brisken the fire, and make the liquor 18U 
degrees of heat, as soon as possible, which must be 
ascertained by dipping the thermometer one mi- 
nute into the liquor. Having ascertained tliat the 
liquor is at 180 degrees of heat, stir the malt well 
up, as before, for ten minutes, keeping the heat 
from 170 to 180 degrees for one hour and a half; 
then draw off this table beer wort into the other 
cooler, .ind cover it over to keep it hot, until time 
for returning it into the machine for boiling. Hav- 
ing drawn off the table beer wort, clean the ma- 
chine from the grains, and return the first wort in- 
to the machine, with all the hops, taking care the 
hops are all within the cylinder, and that none of 
them get into the centre or between the cylinder 
and outer boiler. Make it boil as quick as you 
can, and let it boil one hour; after which damp the 
fire, and draw it off into a cooler or coolers, which 
should be placed in the air, where it will cool 
quick; then return the second wort into the ma- 
chine, to the hops, make it boil as quick as you 
can, and let it boil one hour; put out the fire; draw 
off the wort, and put it into a cooler placed in the 
air to cool quick. When the worts in the cooler 
are cooled down to 70 degrees of heat by the ther- 
mometer, put the proportion of a gill of fresh thick 
yeast to every nine gallons of wort into the cool- 
ers, first thinning the yeast with a little of the 
wort before you put it in, that it may the better 
mix; and when. tl»e ale wort is cooled down to 60 
degrees of heat, draw it off from the coolers, with 
the yeast and sediment, and put it into the ma- 
chine boiler (the machine boiler having been pre- 
viously cleared from the hops and cylinder), 
which forms a convenient vessel, placed on its 
stand, for the ale to ferment in, which mus*. be 
kept fermenting in it with the cover on, until the 
head has the appearance of a thick brown yeast on 
the surface, an inch or two deep, which will take 
three or four days. — [N. B. If the temperature of 
the weather is below 55 degrees of heat by the 
the thermometer, it will be better to place the fer- 
menting vessel in a situation not exposed to the 
cold]; — when the head has this appearance, draw 
off the beer from the yeast and bottoms into a 
clean cask, which must be filled full, and whea 
done working, put in a handful of dry hops, hung 
it down tight, and stow it in a cool cellar. This 
ale will be fit to tap in three or four weeks. 

The second wort for table beer should be put 
from the coolers, with yeast and sediment, into au 
upright cask, with the cover off, or top head out, 
at not exceeding 60 degrees of heat; and as soon as 
you perceive a brown yeast on the surface, draw it 
off free from'the yeast and bottoms into a clean cask, 
which must be kept filled full, and when done 
working, put in a handful of dry hops, bung it 
down tignt, and stow it in a cool cellar. This 
table beer will be fit to tap la a week, or as soon aa 
fine. 

To make table ale. 

Mix the first and second worts together, and fcr> 
ment it, and treat it the same as the ale. 



n4 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



7 •) brertv porter, or brown beer, -with table beer 
after, from the saine malt and hops. 

Use pale and brown raalt in equal quantities, 
ground coarse, and strong brown coloured hops of 
a^-glutinous quality. If the beer is for present 
di'augiit, three quarters of a pound of hops to each 
bushel of malt will be sufficient, but if intended 
for store beer, use one pound to each bushel of 
malt. 

The process of brewing is the same as described 
for brewing ale, with table beer after, except the 
heat of each mash must not be so high by 10 de- 
grees, on account of the brown malt; the first wort 
fermented by itself will be stout porter, and fit to 
tap in three or four weeks; the second wort will be 
the table beer, and fit to tap in a week, or as soon 
as fine; but if you mix the first and second worts 
together, the same as for table ale, it will be good 
common porter. 

To brew table beer only. 

Let the malt be of one sort, of a full yellow co- 
lour (not brown malt), ground coarse, and strong 
brown coloured hops, of a glutinous quality. If 
for present draught, half a pound of hops to each 
bushel of raalt will be sufficient ; but if for keeping 
two or tliree months, use one pound of hops per 
bushel. 

The process of brewing is the same as described 
for brewing porter and table beer, with the addi- 
tion of another wort; that is, filling the machine a 
third time with water before you take out the 
grains, and treating the third mash the same as the 
second. 

The first drawing off, or wort, with part of the 
second wort, to be boiled (first) one hour with all 
the hops, and the remainder of the second wort 
with the third, to be boiled next one hour to the 
SAvae hops; these two boilings, when cooled down 
to 60 degrees of heat, (having put your yeast to it 
in the coolers at 70 degrees), must be put tcwether 
to ferment in the maci\ine boiler, and as soon as it 
has the appearance of a brown yeast on the surface, 
draw it off into the casks, which must be kept fill- 
ed full; and when done working, put into each 
cask a handful of dry hops, bung it down tight, and 
put it into a cooler cellar. Tap in a week, or as 
soon as fine. 

This machine may be had from 8/. to 551., and 
sets of coolers from '2,1. to 3J./. 

Cheap and agreeable table beer. 

Take 15 gallons of water and boil one half, put- 
ting the other into a barrel; add the boiling water 
to the cold, with one gallon of molasses and a little 
yeast. Keep the bung hole open till the fermenta- 
tion is abated. 

To make S2igar beer. 

Very excellent beer is made of sugar, and also 
of treacle. First boil a peck of bran in 10 gallons 
of water; strain the bran off, and mix with the 
branny water three pounds of sugar, first stirring 
it well; when cool enough, add a tea-cupful of the 
best yeast, and a table-spoonful of tiour to a bowl 
nearly full of the saccharine matter, which, when 
it has fermented for about an hour, is to be mixed 
with the remainder, and hopped with about half a 
pound of hops, and the following day, it may be 
put into the cask, to ferment further, which usual- 
ly takes up three days, when it is to be bunged, 
and it wiH be fit for drinking in a week. Treacle 
beer is raa'Uc in the same w.^y, three pounds of it 
being astrd instead of three pounds of sugar. 

N- b. This beerwill not keep any length of time. 
Spruce beer. 

Boil eight gallons of water, and when in a state 
of coiuplete ebullition poiir it into a beer barrel 
which contains eight gallons more of cold water; 
then add sixteen pounds of mol-asses, with a few 



tablespoonsful of the essence of sprnce, stirrmg 
the whole well together; add half a pint of yeast 
and keep it in a temperate situation, with the bung 
hole open for two days till the fermentation be abat- 
ed, when the bung may be put in and the beer bot- 
tled oif. It is fit to drink in a day or two. If you 
can get no essence of spruce make a strong decoc- 
tion of the small twigs and leaves of the spruce firs< 
Bran beer. 

Good fresh table beer may be made with sound 
wheat bran, at the rate of 2d. per gallon, beer 
measure, estimating the price of bran at 4». per 
cwt., and the saccharine density of the wort ex- 
tracted, at 15 lbs. per barrel; but the use of the 
instrument called saccharometer, in domestic prac- 
tice, is not necessary, the process in brewing with 
wheat bran being sufficiently known to every good 
housewife, especially to those of labourers in hus- 
bandly, as well as that for this purpose nothing of 
apparatus is needful, but such as ought to be in 
common use with every cottager in the country. 
A few pounds per barrel of treacle, or the coarsest 
Muscovado sugar, would be a cheap improvement 
as to strength, which indeed might be increased 
to any degree required. 

Yorkshire oat ale. 

Grind a quart of oat malt, made with tne white 
sort, and dried with coke, and mash with forty- 
four gallons of cold soft water, let it stand twelve 
hours; then allow it to spend m a fine small stream, 
and pat two pounds of fine pale hops, well rubbed 
between the hands, into it; let it infuse, cold, for 
three hours, tlien strain and tun it; put yeast to it, 
and it will work briskly for about two days; then 
stop it up, and in ten days 't will be fit to bottle. 
It drinks very smootli, brisk, and pleasant, and looks 
like white wine, but will not keep. 
Cheap beer. 

Pour ten gallons of boiling water upon 1 peck of 
malt in a tub, stir it about well with a stick, let it 
stand about half an hour, and then draw off" tlie 
wort; pour 10 gallons more of boiling water upon 
the malt, letting it remain another half hour, stir- 
ring It occasionally, then (U-aw it off and put it to 
the former wort: when this is done, mix 4 ounces 
of hops witn it, and boil it well; then strain the 
hops from it, and when ilie wort becomes milk- 
warm, put some yeast to it to raake it ferment: 
when the fermentation is nearly over, put the li- 
quor into a cask, and as soon as the fermentation 
has perfectly subsided, bung it close down — the 
beer is tlien fit for use. 

2^0 make beer und ale froir pea shells. 

No production of this country abounds so much 
witli vegetable saccharine matter as the shells of 
green peas. A strong decoction of them so much, 
resembles, in odour and taste, an infusion of malt 
(termed v'ort) as to deceive a brewer. This de- 
coction, rendered slightly bitter with the wood sage, 
and afterwards fermented with yeast, affords a very 
excellent beverage. The metliod employed is as 
follows: 

Fill a boiler with the green shells of peas, pour 
on water till it rises half an inch above the sliells, 
and simmer for three hours. Strain olT the liquor, 
and add a strong decoction of the wood sage, or 
the hop, so as to render it pleasantly bitter; then 
ferment in the usual manner. The wood sage is 
the best substitute for liops, and being free from 
any anodyne property, is entitled to a preference. 
hy boiling a fresh quantity of shells in the decoc- 
tion before it becomes cold, it may be so thorough- 
ly impregnated with saccharine, matter, as to afford 
a liquor, when fermented, as strong as ale. 
Required time for keeping beer. 

This depends on the temperature, at which the 
malt has been made, as under. 



BJIEWING. 



Ufi 



Malt made at 119 degrees will produce beer 
which may be drawn in a fortnight — at 1 2-i deg. 
in a month — at 129 deg. in 3 do. — at 134 deg. in 4 
do. — at 138 deg. in 6 do. — at 143 deg. in 8 do. — at 
148 deg. in 10 do. — at 152 deg. in 15 do. — at 157 
deg. in 20 do.— at 162 deg. in 24 do. 
To give any veqxdrptl brightness or colour to beer. 

This depends on the temperature at which the 
malt has been made, and on its colour as under: 

Malt made at 119 degrees produces a white, — at 
124 deg. a cream colour, — at 129 deg. a light yel- 
low, — at 134 deg. an amber colour. 

These, when properly brewed, become sponta- 
neously fine, even as far as 138 degrees. When 
brewed for amber, by repeated fermentations, they 
become pellucid. — At 138 degrees, a high amber. 
— At 143 deg. a pale btown. 

B3' precipitation, these grow bright in a short 
time. — At 148 deg. a brown. — At 152 deg. a high 
brown. 

With precipitation these require 8 or 10 months 
to be bright. — At 157 deg. a brown, inclining to 
yack. — At 162 deg. a brown speckled with black. 

With precipitation tliese may be fined, but will 
never become bright. — At 167 deg. a blackish 
brown speckled with black, — At 171, a colour of 
burnt coffee. — At 176, a black. 

These with difficulty can be brewed without set- 
ting tlie goods, and will by no means become bright 
not even witli the strongest acid menstruum. 
To brew amber beer. 

Amber is now out of fashion, but formerly was 
drank in great quantities in London, mixed with 
bitters, and called purl. The proportions of malt 
were 3 quartei-s amljer, and 1 quarter pale, with 6 
pounds of hops to the quarter. The first liquor is 
usually tunned at 170 degrees, and the second at 
\%'i degrees. The worts are boiled together for 2 
hours. It is tunned at 64 degrees, and after 24 
hours roused evety 2 hours, till the heat is increas- 
ed to 74. It i^i tlien skimmed every hour for 6 
hours and clear sed, and generally used as soon as 
it has done wo> king in the barrels. 
Another method of breruing amber beer, or ttoo- 
penny. 

For 36 gallons: malt, 1 bushel and a half, hops, 
1 lb. liquorice root, 1 lb. 8 oz. treacle, 5 lbs. Spa- 
nish liquorice, 2 oz. capsicum, 2 drachms; fre- 
quently drank the week after it is brewed; used in 
cold weather as a stimulant. 

To make molasses beer. 

For small beer, put nine pounds of molasses into 
a barrel-copper of cold water, first mixing it well, 
and boiling it briskly, with a quarter of a pound of 
hops or more, one hour, so that it may come oft" 27 
gallons. 

Tojine beer. 

To fine beer, should it be requisite, take an ounce 
of isinglass, cut small, and boil it in three quarts 
of beer, till completely dissolved; let it stand till 
quite cold, then put it into a cask, and stir it well 
with a stick or whisk; the beer so fined should be 
tapped soon, because the isinglass is apt to make it 
flat as well as fine. 

Another method. — Take a handful of salt, and the 
same quantity of chalk scraped fine and well dried; 
then take some isinglass, and dissolve it in some 
stale beer till it is about the consistence of syrup: 
strain it, and aild about a quart to the salt and chalk, 
with two quarts of molasses. Mix them all well 
together, with a gallon of the beer, which must be 
drawn ofi"; thea put it into the cask, and take a 
stick, or whisk, and stir it well till it ferments. 
When it has subsided, stop it up close, and in two 
days it may be tapped. This is sufficient for a butt. 

Another. — Take a pint of water, and half an 
ounce of unslaked lime, mix them well together. 



letting the mixture stand for th»'ee hours, that th<? 
lime may settle at the bottom. Then pour oft' the 
clear liquor, and mix with it half f>n ounce of isin- 
glass, cut small and boilr-<i in a little water, pour 
it into the barrel, and in five or six hours the beei 
will become fine. 

Another. — In general, it will become sufficiently 
fine by keeping; but fineness may be promoted by 
putting a handful of scalded hops into the cask. If 
the beer continues thick, it may then be fined by 
putting a pint of the following preparation into the 
barrel. 

Put as much isinglass into a vessel as will occu- 
py one-third; then fill it up with old beer. When 
dissolved, rub it through a sieve, and reduce it to 
the consistency of treacle with more beer. A pint 
ot this put into the cask and gent'y stirred with a 
short stick, will fine the barrel in a few hours. 
To fine cloudy beer. 

Rack off the cask, and boil one pound of new hops 
in water, with coarse sugar, and when cold put in 
at the bung-hole. 

Or, new hops soaked in beer, and squeezed, may 
be put into the cask. 

Or, take 10 lbs. of baked pebblestone powder, 
with the whites of six eggs, and some powdered 
bay-salt, and mix tliem with 2 gallons of the beer. 
Pour in the whole into the casks, and in three or 
four days it will settle, and the beer be fine and 
agreeable. 

To recover thick, sour malt liqiior. 

Make strong hop tea with boiling water and salt 
of tartar, and pour it into the cask. 

Or, rack the cask into two casks of equal size, 
and fill them up with new beer. 

To vamp malt liquors. 

Old beer may be renewed by racking one cask 
into two, and filling them from a new brewing, and 
in three weeks it will be a fine article. 
To restore musty beer. 

Run it through some hops that have been boiled, 
in strong wort, and afterwards work it with double 
the quantity of new malt liquor: or if the fault is in 
the cask, draw it off into a sweet cask, and having 
boiled ^ lb. of brown sugar in a quart of water, add 
a spoonful or two of yeast before it is quite cold, 
and when the mixture ferments, pour it into the 
cask. 

To enliven and restore dead beer. 

Boil some water and sugar, or water and treacle, 
together, and when cold, add some new yeast; this 
will restore dead beer, or ripen bottled beer in 
24 hours; and it will also make worts work in the 
tun, if they are sluggish. 

Or, a small tea-spoonful of carbonate of soda 
may be mixed with a quart of it, as it is drawn for 
drinking. 

Or, boil for every gallon of the liquor, 3 oz. of 
sugar in water; when cold, aiid a little yeast, and 
put the fermenting mixture into the flat beer, 
whether it be a full cask or the bottom of the cask. 

Or, beer may often be restored, which has be- 
come flat or stale, by railing and shaking the casks 
for a considerable time, which will create such a 
new fermentation as to render it necessary to open 
a vent-peg to prevent the cask from bursting. 
A speedy -way of fining and preserving a cask oj 
ale, or beer. 

Take a handful of the hops boiled in the firs! 
wort, and dried, ^ a pound of loaf sugar, dissolved 
in '.he beer, I pound of chalk, and ^ a pound of 
calcined oyster-shells. Put the whole in at the 
bung-hole, stirring them well and then re-bunging. 
This preparation will also suit for racked beer; in 
putting in the hops it may be advisable to place 
them in a net with a small stone in the bottom so 
as to sink them, otherwise they will swim at the \o\^ 



16 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



Improvement in brexuing. 
ft appears by the Monthly Mag-azine of July 1, 
1823, that the process of fermentation, so import- 
ant to tlie brewers and di'^tillers, and otners of this 
country, is destined to undergo a very important 
change, in consequence of a discovery made in 
France, whereby the practicability and advantage 
of fermenting worts in close vessels has been fully 
established. Instead of using broad and open vats, 
exposed fully to the atmospheric air, which was 
formerly thought essential to the first and princi- 
pal process of fermenting worts, a euantity of al- 
cohol, mixed with the aroma or flavouring princi- 
ple of the wort, from 4i-to 5 per cent, of the whole 
spirit whicli the wort is capable of yielding, after 
rising in va])our along with the carbonic grs, is 
condensed and returned again into the wort, from 
a kind of alembic, fixed on the close top of the fer- 
menting tun, and connected tlierewith only by 
means of pipes. 

Messrs Gray and Dacre, in their brewery at 
West-Ham, in Essex, have adopted this new mode 
of fermenting their wort, and the success attending 
it is most complete. One essential advantage at- 
tending the use of a close vessel for fermenting, is 
the being able to preserve a more equable temper- 
ature in the wort, whereby neither the heat of 
summer nor the cold of winter are able to inter- 
rupt or frustrate the process of complete fermen- 
tation. The exclusion of the oxygen of the at- 
mospheric air, by the same means, from cider, 
perry, or British wines, whilst under the process 
of fermentation, seems to promise a still gi-eater 
improvement of the process than has attended the 
use of this invention in the fermenting of wines on 
the continent. 

To recover beer -whenjlat. 
Take four or five gallons out of a hogshead, boil 
it with four or five pounds of honey, skim it well 
when cold, and put it into the cask again — then 
stop it up close, and it will make the liquor drink 
strong and pleasant. 

Another method. — ^Take two ounces of new hops, 
and a pound of chalk broken into several piecjs 
— put them into the cask, and bung it up close. In 
three days it will be fit to drink. This it the pro- 
per quantity for a kilderkin. 

Another method. — Take a fine net, and put in it 
about a pound of hop;j, with a stone or something 
heavy to sink it to the bottom of the cask. This is 
sufficient for fi butt — but if the cask be less, use the 
hops in proportion. Tap it in sis months: or, if 
wanted sooner, put in some hops that have been 
boiled a short lime in the first wort, either with or 
without a net. 

To prevent, beer becoming stale and fiat. 
First meihod.-^'Vo a quart of PYencb brandy put 
Is much wheat or bean flour as will make it into a 
dough, and put it in, in long pieces, at the bung- 
hole, letting it fall gently to the bottom. This 
will prevent the beer growing stale, keep it in a 
mallow state, and increase its strength. 

Second method. — To a pound of treacle or ho- 
ney, add a pound of the powder of dried oyster 
shells, or of soft mellow chalk — mix these into a 
stiff paste, and put it into the butt. This will pre^ 
serve the beer in a soft and mellow state for a long 
li me. 

Third method. — Dry a peck of egg shells in &r' 
oven — break and mix them with two pounds of 
soft mellow chalk, and then add some water where- 
in four pounds of coarse sugar have been ;boiled, 
and put it into the cask. This will be enough for 
a butt. 

Fourth method.— \n a cask, containing eigliteen 
gallon.s of beer, put a pint of ground malt suspend- ' 
ed in a bag, and close the bung perfectly; the hjL>er 1 



will be improved during the whole time of draw* 
ing it for use. 

Make use of any of these receipts most approved- 
of, observing that the paste or dough must be put 
into the cask when the beer has done W'orlcing, or 
soon after, and bunged down. At the end of nine 
or twelve months tap it, and you will have a fine, 
generous, wholesome, and agreeable iiqucr. 

When the great quantity of sediment that lies at 
the bottom of the cask is neglected to be cleaned, 
this compound of malt, hops, and yeast so afl^ectat 
the beer, that it partakes of all their corrosive qua- 
lities, which render it prejudicial to health, gene- 
rating various chronical and acute diseases. On' 
this account, during the whole process of brewing, 
do not allow the least sediment to mix with the 
wort in removing it from rne i.ub or cooler to the 
other; especially be careful, when tunning it into 
the cask, not to disturb the bottom of the working 
tub, which would prevent its ever being clear and' 
fine. Again, by keeping it too long in the work-- 
ing tub, persons who make a profit of the yeast fre- 
quently promote an undue fermentation, and keep' 
it constantly in that state for five or six days-, which 
causes all the spirit that should keep the beer soft 
and mellow to evaporate, and it will certainly get 
stale and hard, unless it has something wholesome' 
to feed on. 

It is the practice of some persons to beat in the" 
j'east, while the beer is v/orking, for several days- 
together, to make it strong and licady, and to pro- 
mote its sale. This is a wicked and pernicious- 
custom. Yeast is of a very acrimonious and iiar-- 
cotie quality, and when beat in for several days to-- 
gether, the beer thoroughly imbibes its hurtful- 
qualities, [t is not discoverable by the taste, but is 
very intoxicating, and injures the whole nervous- 
system, producing debility and all its conse- 
quences. 'F'herefore, let the wort have a- free, na- 
tural, and light fermentation, and one day in the 
working tub will belong enough luring cold wea- 
ther; but turn it tlie second day at the furthest, 
throw out the whole brewing, ano afterw^ards in- 
troduce no improper ingredients. 

To prevent and cure fixing in inalt liquors. 
Foxing, sometimes called bucking, is a diseasa 
of malt fermentation which taints the beer. Iv 
arises from dirty utensils; puttingthe separate worts- 
together in vessels not too deep; using bad malt; by 
turning on the liquors at too great beats, and brew- 
ing in too hot weather. It renders the beer ropy 
and viscid, like treacle, and it soon turns sour. 
When there is danger of foxing, a handful of hops 
shouldbe thrown into the raw worts while they are 
drawing off, and before they are boiled, as foxint. 
geneially takes place when, from a scantiness of 
utensils, the worts are obliged to be kept some 
time before they are boiled. When there is a- 
want of shallow coolers, it is a good precaution to- 
put some fresh hops into the worts, and workthem-' 
with the yeast. If the brewing foxes in the tun 
while working, hops slrould then he put into it, 
and they will tend to restore it, and extra care- 
ought to be taken to prevent the lees being trans- 
ferred to the barrels. 

Some persons sift quiek-lirae into the tun when 
the brewing appears to be foxed.— If care is not 
taken to cleanse and scald the vessels after foxing,-, 
sabsequent brewings may become tainted. 
Other methods of curing fixing. 
Cut a handful of hyssop small; mix it with a 
handful of salt, and put it into the cask. Stir and 
stop close. 

Or, infuse a handful of hops, and a littlfe salt of 
tartar in boiling water; when cold, strain the liquoi' 
off, and pour it into the cask, which stop close 
Or, mix an ounce of alauxiy with 2^ oz, uf ma9< 



BREWING, 



117 



tard-seed, and 1 oz. of ginger; stir them in the 
jack, and stop close. 

Or, in a fortnight, rack off the foxed beer, and 
hang 2 lbs. of bruised Malaga raisins in a bag 
within the cask, and put in a mixture of treacle, 
tean-flour, mustard-seed, and powdci-ed alum. 
To restore a bm^el of ropy beer. 
Mix a handful of bean-flour with a handful of 
salt, and stir it in at the bung-bole: or take some 
well infused hops, and mix them in with some 
settlings of strong wort, and stir the mixture in at 
the bung-hole. Or, powder half an ounce of alum 
very fine, and mix with a handful of bean-flour. 
To restore a barrel of stale, or sour beer. 
Put a quarter of a pound of good ho;<s, and two 
pounds of soiuid chalk into the bwng-hole; stop it 
«lose, and in a few days it will draw perfectlj' fresh. 
Or, a small tea-spoonful of carbonate of soda may 
be mixed with every quart as it is drank. 
To make a butt of porter, stout. 
Insert 4 gallons of molasses and some finings; 
stir it well. In a week draw off the cask by a cock 
inserted half way down. 

7'o restore frosted beer. 
Such beer is usually sweet and foul, and will 
never recover of itself; but to remedy this, make 
a pailful of fresh wort, into which put a handful of 
rubbed hops, and boil them half an hour, so that 
it may be ver)^ bitter, and when almost cold, draw 
a pailful from the cask, and rs-fill it with the bit- 
ter wort. Fermentation will re-comraence, but 
when this is over bung it up for a month. If it is 
not then restored, rack it into another cask, and 
put into it J a peck of parched wheat, and 1 lb. of 
good hops, dried and rubbed, and tied up in a net. 
JBung it down, leaving the vent-hole open for a day 
or two, and in a month it will be fine liquor. 
To g-ive ne~M ale the flavour of old. 
Take out the bung, and put into the cask a hand- 
ful of pickled cucumbers; or a sliced Seville orange, 
and either mode wlh add an apparent six months 
to the age of the ale. 

To protect malt liqtiors against the effects of elec- 
tricity. 
As positive electricity is nothing more than oxy- 
genous gas, which, when accumulated in conduc- 
tors by electrical action, affects all fluids (as con- 
ductors), and enclosed fermented liquors among 
the n St, and as electrical action always takes place 
among the best conductors, so fermented liquors, 
whether in casks or bottles, may be protected from 
electrical action (vulgarly called thunder) by plac- 
ing on the casks, or over the bottles, pieces or 
rods of iron; and such have been found, by experi- 
ence, to serve as a sufficient protection against this 
pernicious influence. 

7'o give beer a rich flavour. 
Put six sea-biscuits into a bag of hops, and put 
them into the cask. 

To preserve oreu-ing uiensih: 

In cleaning them before being put away, avoid 

the use of soap, or nny greasy material, and use 

only a brush and scalding water, being particularly 

careful not to leave any yeast or fur on the sides. 

To prevent their being tainted, take wood ashes 
and boil them to a strong ley, which spread over 
the bottoms of the vessels scalding, and then with 
the brooio scrub the sides and other pans. 

Or, take bay-salt, and spread it over the coolers, 
and strew some on their wet sides, turning in 
scalding water and scrubbing witli a broom. 

Or, throw some stone-lime into water in the ves- 
sel, and scrub over the boitom and sides, washing 
afterwards with c'.ean water. 

To sweeten stinking or musty casks. 
Make a strong ley of ash, beech, or other hard 



' wood-ashes, and pour it, boiling hot, into tlie bung- 
hole, repeating it as often as there is occasion. 

Or, fill the cask with boiling: water, and ther: 
put into it some pieces of unslaked stone-lime, 
keeping up tiie ebulhiion for half an hour. Then 
bung it do\yn, and let it remain until almost cold, 
when turn it out. 

Or, mix bay-salt with boiling water, and pour it 
into the cask, which bung down, and leave it to 
soak. 

Or, if the copper be provided with a dome, and 
a steara pipe fi-om its top, pass the steam into the 
casks- 

Or, unhead the cask, scrub it out, head it again: 
put some powdered charcoal into the bung-hole, 
and two quarts of a mixture of oil of vitriol and 
cold water. Then bung it tight, and roll and turn 
the cask for some time. Afterwards wash it Avell, 
and drain it dry. 

Or, take out the head, and brush the inside witli 
oil of vitriol, afterwards wash it, then burn a slip 
of brown paper steeped in brimstone within the 
bung-hole, and stop it close for two hours, when 
it should be well washed with hot water. 

Another method. — IVIix half a pint of the sulphu- 
ric acid (not the diluted) in an open vessel, with 
a quart of water, and whilst warm, put it into the 
cask, and roll it about in such a manner that the 
whole internal surface may be exposed to its ac- 
tion. The following day, add about one pound of 
chalk, and bung it up for three or four days, when 
it may be washed o\it with boiling water. By this 
process, a very musty cask may be rendered sweet. 

For sweetening musty bottles, it will be only 
necessary to rinse the inside with the diluted sul- 
phuric acid in the above-mentioned proportions. 
The addition of chalk, if it were immediately cork- 
ed, would burst the bottle, and if the cask be old, 
it would be advisable to let a little of the gas escape 
before bunging it. 

Another. — Collect fresh cow dung and dilute it 
with water, in which four pounds of salt and one 
of common alum are dissolved. Let these be boiled 
together, and poured hot into the barrel, which 
must then be bunged and well shaken. This ope- 
ration should be performed several times, taking 
care to rinse the cask out every time, with clean 
watei . 

Another. — If a cask, after the beer is drank out, 
be well stopped, to keep out the air, and the lees 
be suffered to I'emain in it till used again, scald it 
well, taking care that the hoops be well driven on, 
before filling; but should the air get into an empty 
cask, it will contract an ill scent, notwithstanding 
the scalding; in which case a handful of bruised 
pepper, boiled in the water, will remove it,thoi'gh 
the surest way is to take out the head of the cask, 
that it may be shaved; then burn it a little, and 
scald it for use; if this cannot be conveniently done, 
get some lime-stone, put about tliree pounds into 
a barrel (and in same proportion for larger or 
smaller vessels), put to it about six gallons of cold 
watei, bung it up, shake it about for some time, 
and afterwards scald it well. Or, in lieu of lime, 
match it well and scald it. Then the smell will be 
entirely removed. If the casks be new, dig holes 
in the earth, and lay them in, to about half their 
depth, with their bung-holes downwards, for a 
week. After which scald them well, and they will 
be ready for use. 

Another. — The process of charring fails only in 
the fii'e not being able to penetrate into the chasms 
or chinks of the cask, into which the coopers (to 
mem! bad work) often insert strips of pai)er, or 
othei substance, to make it water-tight, which in 
time become rotten and offensive; in order to re- 



T18 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOR. 



medy this, put into a cask containing a quantity of 
water (say aboat 2 gallons in a hogshead) 1-lOth of 
its weight of sulphuric acid (oil of vitriol), and let 
this be shaken for some time; this is to be poured 
Dut, tlie cask well washed, and then rinsed v/ith a 
few gallons of lime-water. It is needless to say, 
that it ought likewise to be washed out. 

Sulphur mixed with a little nitre, burnt in a 
closed vessel, and then the subsequent process of 
lime-water, &c. would do, and perhaps as well. 

The theory is, that sulphuric acid has the pro- 
perty, when used alone, of charring wood, and 
when diluted, has sufficient strenglli to destroy 
must, &c. with the additional advantage of entering 
into every crevice, 'l^he lime in solution seizes 
any particle of acid which the first washing might 
leave, and converts it into an insoluble inoffensive 
neutral salt, such as, if left in the cask, would not 
in tlie least injure the most delicate liquor. 
JLo7idon coopers'' mode of sweete^iing casks. 

It is their sj'stem to take out the head, place 
the cask over a brisk fire, and char the inside com- 
pletely. The head is then put in again, and the 
cask, before used, is filled two or three times with 
hot liquor, bunged down and well shaken, before it 
is used again. 

Method of seasoning new casks. 

Put the staves just cut and shaped, before they 
are worked into vessels, loose in a copper of cold 
water, and let them heat gradually so that they 
nmst be well boiled, and in boiling take out a hand- 
bowl of water at a time, putting in fresh till ah the 
i-edness is out of the liquor, and it becomes clear 
from a scum of filth that will arise from the sap so 
boiled out; also take care to turn the staves upside 
down, that all their parts may equally have the be- 
nefit of the hot water. Observe also that in a dry, 
sultry summer, the sap is more strongly retained 
in the wood, than in a cool and moist one, and 
therefore must have the more boiling. Then, when 
the vessel is made, scald it twice with water and 
salt boiled together, and it may be readily filled 
with strong beer without fearing any twang from 
the wood. 

To keep empty vessels sweet. 

An eminent London brewer is so curious in this 
respect, that he makes use of a wooden bung, which, 
»s soon as he has put into the vessel with some 
Jrown paper, he directly covers over with some 
tvood ashes mixed with water, and puts it all about 
the same, with as much care as if tlie cask had been 
I'ull of strong beer, though it is done only to keep 
ihe grounds sweet while they are so. And thus a 
;essel may be preserved in sound order for nearly 
'ta.lt' a year. 

Fermentation by various means. 

As yeast is nothing more than fixed air combin- 
.'d with mucilage tlirown to the top during fer- 
■nentation, and LHe use of yeast consists merely in 
Jifiusing by its nieans fixed air through the mix- 
ture to be fermented; so whatever pontains fixed 
air which can be communicated through the mass, 
will cause good fermentation, whether it be in 
brewing or bread making. Thus chemisis have 
impregnated infusions with gas by an a[)paratus, 
and produced good beer, and a bottle, containing 
calcareous matter and oil of vitriol, immersed in 
the fluid, has caused effectual fermentation, and 
produced ail its results. 

First substitute for yeast. — Mix two quarts of 
water with wheat fiour, to the consistence of thick 
gruel, boil it gently for naif an hour, and when al. , 
most cold, stir into it half a pound of sugar and 
four spoonsful of good yeast. Put the whole into 
a large jug, or earthen vessel with a narrow top, 
and place it before the fire, so that it may by a mo- 
derate heat ferment. 1'he fermentation will throw- 



up a thin liquor, which pour off and throw away^ 
keep the I'emainder for use (in a cool place) in a 
bottle, or jug tied over. The same quantity of 
this, as of common yeast, will suffice to bake or 
brew with. Four spoonsful of this yeast will make 
a fresh quantity as before, and the stock maybe al- 
ways kept up by fermenting the new with tlie re- 
mainder of the former quantity. 

Second substitute. — Take six quarts of soft wa- 
ter and two handsful of wheaten meal or barley; 
stir the latter in the water before the mixture is 
placed over the fire, where it must boil till two- 
thirds are evaporated. When this decoction be- 
comes cool incorporate with it, by means of a 
whisk, two drachms of salt of tartar, and 1 drachm 
of cream of tartar, previously mixed. The whole 
should be kept in a warm place. Thus a very 
strong yeast for brewing, distilling, and baking, 
may be obtained. For the last mentioned purpose, 
however, it ought to be diluted with pure water, 
and passed through a sieve, before it is kneaded 
with the dough, in order to deprive it of its alka- 
line taste. 

In countries where yeast is scarce, it is a com- 
mon practice to twist hazel twigs so as to be full of 
chinks, and then to steep them in ale-yeast during 
fermentation. The twigs are then hung up to dry, 
and at the next brewing they are put into the wort 
instead of yeast. In Italy the ciiips are frequently 
put into turbid wine, for tlie purpose of clearing it. 
this is effected in about twenty- four hours. 

Third substitute — Take one pound of fine flcur, 
make it the thickness of gruel with boiling water, 
add to it half a pound of raw sugar. Mix them 
well together Put three spoonsful of well purifi- 
ed yeast iiitoalaige vessel, upon which put the 
above ingredients: tl»ey will soon ferment violent- 
ly. Collect the yeast oft' the top and put it into a 
brown small-neck pot, and cover it up from the air, 
keep it in a dry and warmish place; when used in 
part, replace with flour made into a thin paste, and 
sugar in the former proportions: the above will be 
fit for use in five months, and no yeast is necessary 
except the first time. 

Fourth substitute. — Boil flour and water to the 
consistence of treacle, and when the mixture is cold 
saturate it with fixed air. Pour the mixtui'e, thus 
saturated, into one or more large bottles or narrow 
mouthed jars; cover it over loosely with paper, 
and upon that lay a slate or board with a weight to 
keep it steady. Place the vessel in a situation 
where the thermometer will stand from 70 deg. to 
80 deg. and stir uj) the mixture two or three times 
in the c- ;urse of 24 hours. In about two days, such 
a degree of fermentation will have taken place, as 
to give the mixture the appearance of yeast. With 
the yeast in this state, and before it has acquii-ed a 
thoi<oughly vinous smell, mix the quantity of ftour 
intended tor bread, in the proportion of six pounds 
of fiour to a quart of the yeast, and a sufficient por- 
tion of warm water. Knead them well together in 
a proper vessel, and covering it with a cloth, let 
the dough stand for twelve hours, or till it appears 
to be sufficiently fermented in the foriemention- 
ed degree of warmth. It is then to be formed 
into loaves and baked. The yeast would be more 
perfect if a decoction of malt were used instead of 
simple water. 

Fifth substitute. — A decoction of malt alone, 
without any addition, will produce a yeast proper 
enough for the purpose of brewing. This disco- 
very was made by Joseph Senyor, and he received 
for it a reward of 20/. from the Society for Promot- 
ing Arts, Manufactures, and Commerce. The 
process is as follows: Procure three eai'lhen or 
wooden vessels of different sizes and apertures, 
one capable of holding two quaits, the otlier thi'e« 



BREWING, 



119 



or four, and the third five or six: boil a quarter of 
a peck of malt for about eight or ten minutes in 3 
pints of water; and when a q 'art is poured off from 
the grains, let it stand, in the first or smaller ves- 
sel, inacool place till not quite cold, but retaining 
that degree of heat which the brewers usually find 
to he proper when they begin to work their liquor. 
Then remove the vessel into some warm situation 
near a fire, where the thermometer stands between 
70 and 80 (leg. Fahrenheit, and there let it remain 
till the fermentation begins, which will be plainly 
perceived within 30 hours; add then two quarts 
more of a like decoction of malt, when cool as the 
first was, and mix the whole in the second or larger 
vessel, and stir it well in, which must be repeated 
in the usual way, as it rises in a coniDv jn vat: then 
add a still greater quantity of the same decoction, 
to be worked in the largest vessel, which will pro- 
duce yeast enough for a brewing of 40 gallons. 

SixtK substitute. — Boil one pound of good flour, 
a quarter of a pound of brown sugar, and a little 
salt, in two gallons of water for one hour; when 
milk-warm, bottle it and cork it close: it will be 
fit for use in twenty-four hours. One pint of this 
will make 18 lbs. of bread. 

Seventh substitute. — To a pound of mashe<l po- 
tatoes (mealy ones are best) add two ounces of 
brown sugar, and two spoonsful of common yeast; 
the potatoes first to be pulped through a cullender, 
and mixed with warm water to a proper consist- 
ence. Thus a pound of potatoes will make a quart 
of good yeast. Keep it moderately warm while 
fermenting. 

Eighth substitute. — Tnfuse malt, and boil it as 
for beer; in the mean time, soak isinglass, sepa- 
rated to fibres, in small beer. Proportion the 
quantity of each, 1 ounce of isinglass to two quarts 
of beer. This would suffice for a hogshead of 
boiling wort, and the proportion may be diminish- 
ed or increased accordingly. After soaking five 
minutes, set the beer and isinglass on the fire, 
stirring till it nearly boils. Then turn it into a 
dish that will allow beating it up with a syllabub 
wh'sk, to the consistence of yeast, and when al- 
most cold, put it to the wort. 

JVinth substitute. — ^Make a wort of the consist- 
ence of water gruel, with either rye or malt, ground 
very fine; put 5 gallons of it into a vessel capable 
of holding a few gallons more; dissolve 1 pound 
of leaven in a small portion of the wort, and .idd it 
to the remainder with 2^ pounds of fine ground 
malt; mix the wliole by agitation for some minutes, 
and in half an hour add two large spoonsful of 
good yeast; incorporate it thoroughly with the mass, 
cover it close and let it remain undisturbed for forty 
eight hours in a moderate temperature; at the end 
«1" that period it will be found to be wholly con- 
verted into good yeast It is requisite that the 
rye and mall should be fine, and the leaven com- 
pletely dissolved before being put to the remaining 
wort, which, previous to the yeast being added, 
should be at about 100 deg. Fahrenheit. — I'raus- 
actions of the Economical Society of Petersburg. 
To preserve yeast. 

Common ale yeast may be kept fresh and fit for 
use several months by the following method: Put 
a quantity of it into a close canvass bag, and gen' ly 
squeeze out the moisture in a screw-iiress till the 
remaining matter be as firm and stiff as clay. In ' 
this state it may ue close packed up in a tight cask i 
ifor securing it from the air; and will keep fresh, 
sound, and fit for use, for a long timel This is a se- i 
sret that might be of great use to the brewers and 
distillers, who, though ihey employ veiy large quan- 
tities of yeast, seem to know no method of pr-jserv- 
kng it or raising nurseries of it; for want ol wliich i 
Jjaej sustain a very considerable loss; whereas the I 



brewers in Flanders make a very gieat advantage 
of supplying the malt distillers of Holland with 
yeast, which is rendered lasting and fit for carnage 
by this easy expedient. 

.Another metliod. — Stir a quantity of yeast and 
work it well with a whisk, till it seems liquid 
and thin. Then get a large wooden disli or tub, 
clean and dry, and with a soft brush lay a thin layei 
of yeast thereon, turning the mouth downward-., 
to prevent its getting dust, but so that the air mar 
come to it to dry it. When that coat or crust is 
sufficiently dried, lay on another, which serve in 
the same manner, and continue pulling on others 
as tiiey dr)', till two or three inches thick, which 
will be useful on many occasions. But be sure 
the yeast in the vessel be drv before more be laid 
on. When wanted for use, cut a piece out, lay it 
in warm water, stir it toi^ether, and it will be fit 
for use. If for brewing, take a handful of birch 
tied together, dip it into the yeast, and hang it to 
dry, taking care to keep it free from dust. \Vhen 
the beer is fit to set to work, throw in one of these 
and it will work as well as fresh yeast. Whip it 
about in the wort and then let it lie. When the 
beer works well take out the broom, dry it again, 
and it will do for the next brewing. 
Tn restore bad yeast. 
Mix with it a little flower, sugar, salt, brandy, 
and beer, and these will confer on it tlie qualities 
of good yeast. Good yeast may also be made by 
adding xhe same mixture to the grounds of ale. 
To make purl bitters. 
Take of Roman wormwood two dozen pounds, 
gentian root six p, vwids, calamus aromaticus (or the 
sweet flag root) tvfo pounds, snake rooc one pound, 
horse radish one bunch, orange peel dried and 
juniper berries, each two pounds, seeds or kernels 
of Seville oranges cleaned and dried two pounds. 
Cut these, and bruise them, and put them into a 
clean butt, and start some mild brown or pale beer 
upon them, so as to fill up the vessel, about the be- 
ginning of November, wnich let stand till the next 
season. If a pound or two of galanga root is added 
to it, the composition will be better. 

Cautions in the use of foreign ingredients. 
In general, the beer shoulri be racked oft" first, 
because the. sediments and lees will not accord with 
the foreign substances. — Salt and alum in too large 
quantities induce staleness. The powder of soft 
stone, unburnt, should be avoided; too many whites 
of eggs are apt to make tlie beer ropy. The intro- 
duction of cocculus indicus confei's a pernicious 
strength or headiness, which gratifies drunkards, 
but destroys the nervous system, and produces pal- 
sies and premature old age. It has been well re- 
marked, that the brewer that uses this slow, but 
certain poison, as a substitute for a due quantity of 
maJt, ought to be boiled ia his own copper. 

Bitters are in like manner pernicious in man/ 
states of the stomach. W hen oyster shells at e used, 
the bung should be left out to avoid biu-stiag. 
Use of sugar in brewing. 
Families brewing their own malt liquor may use 
thirty-two pounds of brown sugar with two bushels 
of malt, which will produce 50 gallons of ale, as 
good in every respect as if made from six bushels 
of malt, effecting a saving of 3ls. 8J. The sugju- 
is mixed with the wort as it ruus from the mash- 
tub. 

To close casks raithout bungs. 
Some persons cover tlie bung-hole simply with 
brown paper, fastened at the sides, and covered 
with clay: others have found a single piece of blad- 
der, well fixed at tlie edges, a complete ana effica- 
cious substitute for oungs. These methods at least 
prevent the bursting of the cask from changes of 
air. 



ISO 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



To bottle porter, ale, &c. 

In the first place, the bottles should be clean, 
sweet, and dry, the corks sound and good, and the 
porter or ale fine. When the bottles are filled, if 
for home consumption, they should not be corked 
till the day following; and if for exportation to a 
hot climate, they must stand three days or more: 
if the liquor is new, it should be well corked 
and wired; but for a private family they may do 
■without wiring,, only they should be well packed 
in sawdust, and stand upright. But if some ripe 
are wanted, keep a few patked on their sides, so 
that the liquor may touch the corks — and this will 
soon ripen, and make it fit for drinking. 

To ripen porter and ale, if flat -when bottled. 

When about to fill the bottles, put into each of 
fhem a tea-spoonful of raw brown sugai- — or two 
tea-spoonsful of rice wheat — or six raisins. 
To remove tartness. 

Put a tea-spoonful of carbonate of soda into a 
quart of tart beer, and it will be pleasant and whole- 
some. 

7'o bottle malt liquor. 

It should be ripe, and not too young. Cork loose 
at first, and afterwards firm, i'or a day or two, 
kee^) the bottles in cold water, or in a cold place; 
or throw some cold water over them. Steep the 
corks in scalding water, to make them more elas- 
tic. Lay the bottles on their sides. When it is 
desired that the liquor should ripen soon, keep the 
bottles in a warmer place. October beer should 
not be bottled till Midsummer; nor March beer 
till Christmas. If the ale is flat, or stale, put 3 
horse-beans, or 3 raisins into eacli bottle, and to 
prevent the bottles bursting, make a hole in the 
middle of the cork with an awl; or put into each 
bottle, one or two pepper corns. If it is desired 
to ripen it quick, boil some coarse sugar in water, 
and when cold, ferment it with yeast. Then put 
3 or 4 spoonsful of it, with two cloves, and if kept 
in a warm place, it will be ripe the next day. 
When the ale is sour, put into it a little syrup of 
capillaire, and ferment it with yeast; when settled, 
bottle it, and put a clove or two with a small lump 
of sugar into each bottle. It is also useful to put 2 
or 3 pieces of chalk, or some powdered chalk, into 
the barrel before bottling. 

I'o bottle table beer. 

As soon as a cask of table beer is received into 
the hou^e, it is drawn off into quart stone bottles, 
with a lump of wnite sugar in each, and securely 
corkod. In three days it becomes brisk, is equal 
in strength to table ale, remarkably pleasant, very 
wholesome, and will keep many months. • 
To render bottled beer ripe. 

The following method is employed in Paris, by 
some venders of bottled beer, to render it what they 
term ripe. — It is merely by adding to each bottle 
3 or 4 drops of yeast, and a lump of sugar, of the 
size of a large nutmeg. In the course of twenty- 
four hours, by this addition, stale or flat beer is 
rendered most agreeably brisk. In consequence 
of the fermentative process that takes place in it, a 
small deposit follows, and on this account the bot- 
tles shou'd be kept in an erect position. By this 
means white wine may likewise be rendered brisk. 
To manage ale in the cellar. 

In general, nothing is more necessary than to 
keep it well stopped in a cool cellar, looking oc- 
casionally to see that there is no leakage, and to 
open the vent-holes, if any oozings appear between 
the staves of the stacks: but connoisseurs in malt 
liquor may adopt some of the following means; 
leave the cook-hole of an upright cask, or the vent- 
hole of an horizontal one, open for 2 or 3 months; 
then rack oft' into another casli with 1 or 2 pounds 
of r.ew hops, and closely bung and stop down. 



Or, leave the vent-holes open a month; then stop 
and about a month before tapping, draw off a little, 
and mix it with 1 or 2 lbs. of new hops, wViich 
having poured iato the cask, it is again closely stop- 
ped. 

Or, salt may be used with the hops, as it always 
gives beer the flavour of age. 

To keep hops for future use. 

Hops lose all their fine flavour by exposure to the 
air and damp. They sho aid be kept in a dry close 
place, and lightly packed. 



TO MAKE CIDER, 

After the apples are gathered from tne trees, 
they are ground into what is called pommage, 
either by means of a common pressing stone, with 
a circular trough, or by a cider mill, which is either 
driven by the hand, or by horse power. When the 
pulp is thus reduced to a great degi-ee of fineness, 
it is conveyed to the cider press, where it is formed 
by pressure into a kind of cake, which is called 
the cheese. 

This is effected by placing clear sweet straw, or 
hair clotlis, between the layers of pommage, till 
there is a pile of ten or twelve layers. This pile 
is then subjected to different degrees of pressure in 
succession, till all the must, or juice, is squeezed 
from the pommage. This juice, after being strained 
in a coarse hair-sieve, is then put either into open 
vats or close casks, and the pressed pulp is either 
thrown away, or made to yield a weak liquor call- 
ed washings. 

After the liquor has undergone the proper fer- 
mentation in these close vessels, wliicli may be best 
effected in a temperature of from forty to sixty de- 
grees of Fahrenheit, and which may be known by 
its appearing tolerably clear, and having a vinous 
sharpness upon the tongue, any farther fermenta- 
tion must be stopped by racking off the pure part 
into open vessels, exposed for a day or two in a 
cool situation. After this the liquor must again be 
put into casks, and kept in a cool place during win- 
ter. The proper time for racking may always be 
known by the brightness of the liquor, the discbarge 
of the fixed air, and the appearance of a thick crust 
formed of fragments of the reduced pulp. The li- 
quor should always be racked off" anew, as often as 
a hissing noise is heard, or as it extinguishes a can- 
dle held to the bung-hole. 

When a favourable vinous fermentation has been 
obtained, nothing more is required than to fill up 
the vessels every two or three weeks, to supply the 
waste by fermentation. On the beginning of March, 
the liquor will be bright and pure, and tit for final 
racking, which should be done in fair weather. 
When the bottles are filled, they should be set by 
uncorked till morning, when the corks must be 
driven in tightly, secured bj' wire or twine and 
melted rosin, or f.ny similar substance. 
'J'o make Devonshire cider. 

Prefer the bitter sweet apples, mixed with milJ 
sour, in the proportion of one-tliird. Gather thei'ji 
wlieii ripe, and lay them in heaps in the orchard. 
Then take them to the crushing engine, made ot 
iron rollers at top and of stone beneath; after pass- 
ing through which, they are received into large 
tubs or cives, and are then called pommage. They 
ai-e afterwards laid on the vat in nltemate layers of 
the pommage and clean straw, called reeds. They 
are then pressed, the juice running through a hair 
sieve. After the cider is pressed out, it is put into 
hogsheads, where it remains for two or three days 
previously to fermenting. To stop ttie fermenta- 
tion, it is drawn off into a clean vessel; but if t.be 
fermentation be very strong, two or three cans of 



CIDER. 



1^1 



eider are put into a clean vessel, and a match of 
brirastone burnt in it: it is then agitated, by which 
the tVraentation of that quantity is completely 
stopped. The vessel is then nearly filled, the fer- 
mentation of the whole is checked, and the cider 
becomes fine: but if, on the first operation, the fer- 
mentation is not checked, it is repeated til) it is 
so, and continued from time lo time till the cider 
is in a quiet state for drinking. 

Some persons, i\. stead of deadening a small 
quantity with a match, as above directed, put froin 
one 10 two pints of an article called stum (bought 
of the wine coopers) into each hogshead: but the 
system of racking as often as the fermentation ap- 
pears, is generally preferred by the cider manufac- 
turers of Devonshire. 

About six sacks, or twentj'-four bushels of ap- 
ples, are used foi a hogshead of sixty-tlu-ee gal- 
lons. During the process, if the weather is warm, 
it will be necessary to carry it on in the shade, in 
the open air, and by every means keep it as cool 
as possible. 

In nine months it will be in condition for bot- 
tling or drinking; if it continnes thick, use some 
isinglass finings, and if at any time it ferments and 
threatens acidity, the cure is lo rack it and leave 
the head and sediment. 

Scotch method. 

The apples are reduced to mucilage, by beating 
them in a stone trough (one of those used at 
pumps tor watering horses) with pieces of ash- 
poles, used in the manner that potaioes aremaslied. 
The press consist? of a strong box, three feet 
square, and twenty inches deep, perforated on 
^ach side with small auger or gimble.t holes. It 
is placed on a frame of wood, projecting three 
inches beyond the base of the box. A groove is 
cut in this projection one inch and a half wide, and 
one inch deep, to convey the juice when ^jressed 
out of the box into a receiving pail. This opera- 
tion is performed in ths following manner. The 
box is filled alternately with strata of fresh straw 
and mashed fruit, in the proportion of one inch of 
straw to two inches of mucilage: these are pilrd up 
a foot higher than the top of the box; and care is 
taken in packing the box itself, to keep the fruit 
and straw about one inch from the sides of the 
box, which allows the juice to escape freely. A 
considerable quantity of the liquor will run off 
without any pressure. This must be applied gra- 
dually at first, ind increased regvdarly towsrdsthe 
conclusion. A box of the above dimensions will 
require about two tons weight to render the resi- 
duum completely free from juice. 

[The residuum is excellent food for pigs, and 
peculiarly acceptable to them.] 

The necessary pressure is obtained very easily, 
and in a powerful manner, by the compound lever 
pressing upon a lid or sink made of wood about 
two inches thick, and rendered sufficiently strong 
by two cross-bars. It is made to fit the opening 
of the box exactly; and as the levers force the lid 
down, they are occasionally slacked or taken off, 
and blooks of wood are placed on the top of the 
lid, to permit the levers to act, even after the lid 
has entered the box itself. Additional blocks are 
repeatet'i, until the whole juice is extracted. The 
pressure may be increased more or less, by adding 
or diminishing the weight suspended at the extre- 
mity of the lever. 

The liquor thus obtained is allowed to stand un- 
disturbed twelve hours, in open vessels, to deposit 
sediment. The pure juice is then put into clean 
casks, and placed in a proper situation to ferment, 
the temperature being from fifty-five to sixty d.;- 
grees. The fermentation will commence sooner 
«r later, depending chiefly on the temperature of 
Q 



the apartment where the liquor is kept; in most 
cases, during the first three or four days; but 
somet'-mes it will requirs more than a week to be- 
gin this process. If the fermentation begins early 
and proceeds rapidly, the liquor must be racked 
o^f, and put into fresh casks in two or three daysi 
but if this does not take place at an early period, 
and proceeds s'owiy, five or six days may elapse 
before it is racked. In general, it is necessary to 
rack the liquorat least twice. If,notwithstanding, 
the fermentation continues briskly, the racking 
must be repeated; otherwise the vinous fermenta- 
tion, by proceeding too far, may terminate in 
acetous fermeniation, when vinegar would be the 
result. 

In racking off the I'quor it is necessary to keep 
it free of sediment, and the scum or yeast produced 
by the fermentation. A supply of spare liquor 
must be reserved to fill up the barrels occasionally, 
whiJe the fermentation continues. As soon as this 
cef'.aes, the bairels should be bunged up closely, 
and the bungs covered with rosin, to prevent the 
admission of air. If the cider is weak, it should 
remain in the cask about nine months; if strong, 
twelve or eigliteea months is necessary before it 
should be bottled. — Fannet^'s Ma^. Vol. IX. 
To manage cider and perry. 

To fine and improve tlie liavour of one hogs- 
head, take a gallon of good French brandy, with 
half an ounce of cochineal, one pound of alum, and 
three pounds of sugar-candy; bruise them all well 
i'l a mortar, and infuse them in the brandy for a 
day or two; then mix tne whole v/ith the cider, and 
stop it close for five or six months. After wliieh, 
if fine, bottle it off. 

Cider or perry, when bottled in hot weather, 
should be left a day or two uncorked, that il may 
get fiat; hut if too flat in the cask, and soon wanted 
for use, put into each bottle a small lump or two 
of sugar-oandy, four or five raisins of the sun, or a 
small piece of raw beef; any of which will much 
improve the liquor, and make it brisker. 

Cider should be well corked and waxed, and 
packed upright in a cool place. A few bottles 
may always be kept in a warmer place to ripen 
and be ready for use. 

To mahe cheap cider from raisins. 

Take fourteen pounds of raisins with the stalks; 
wash them out in four or five waters, till the water 
remains clear; then put them into a clean cask 
with the head out, and put six gallons of good wa- 
ter upon them; after which cover it well up, and 
let it stand ten days. Then rack it off into anotlier 
clean cask, which has a brass cock in it, and in 
four or five days time it will be fit for bottling. 
"^Vhen it has been in the bottles seven or eight 
days, it will be fit for use. A little colouring 
should be added when putting into the cask the 
second time. The raisins may afterwards be used 
for vinegar. 

To make perry. 

Perry is made after the same manner as cider, 
only from pears, which must be quite dry. The 
best pears for this purpose are such as are least fit 
for eating, and the redder they are the better. 
Ol'sei~vatimis on cider. 

From the great diversity of soil and climate in 
the United States of America, and the almost end- 
less variety of its apples, it follows that much di- 
versity of taste and flavour will necessarily be 
found in the cider that is made from them. 

To make good cider the following general, but 
important rules should be attended to. They de- 
mand a little more troubic than the ordinary mode 
of collecting and mashing apples of all sorts, rot- 
ten and sound, sweet and sour, dirty and clean, 
from the tree and the soil, and the rest of the slov 



122 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



enly pi'ocess usually employed; but in return they 
produce you a ■wholesome, liigli flavoured, sound 
and palatable liquor, that always commavds an 
adeqiuite price, instead of a solution of " villainous 
compouuds," in a poisonous and acid wash, tliat 
110 man in his senses will drink. The finest cider 
I ever tasted, was made of an equal portion oi ripe, 
sound, pippin and crab apples, //a.'crf, cored, and 
m-essed, fcc. with the utmost nicety. It was equal 
in flavour to any champagne that ever was made. 
General ndeftfor making cider. 

1. Always choose perfectly ripe and sound fruit. 

2. Pick the apples by hand. An active boy, 
with a biig slung over his shoulders, will soon clear 
a tree. Apples that have lain any time on the soil, 
contract an earthy taste, which wi;i always be 
found in the cider. 

3. After sweating, and before being ground, 
-ivipe them dry, and if any are found bruised or 
rotten, put them in a heap by themselves, for an 
inferior cidt^r to make vinegar. 

4. Always use hair cloths, instead of straw, to 
place between the layers of pommage. Tbe straw 
when heated, gives a disagreeable taste to the 
cider. 

5. As the cider runs from the press, let it pass 
tlirough a hair sieve into a large open vessel, tliat 
will liold as much juice as can be expressed in one 
day. Ill a day, or sometimes less, the pumice will 
rise to the to]), and in a short tin^e grow very 
thick: when little white bubbles break llii-ough it, 
draw off the liquor by a spigot, placed about three 
inches from the bottom, so that the lees may be 
left quietly behind. 

6. Tiie'cider must be drawn off into very clean 
sweet casks, and closely watched. The moment 
the wiiite bubbles before mentioned are perceived 
rising at the bung-hole, rack it again. "When the 
fermentation is completely at an end, fill up the 
cask with cider, in all respects like that already 
contained in it, and bung it up tight; previous to 
ivhich a tumbler of snueet oil may be poured into 
the bung-heie. 

Sound, well made cider, that has been produced 
as described, and without any foreign mixtures 
ixcepting always that of good coguiac brandy, 
[whick added to it in the proportion of one gallon 



to thirty, greatly improves it) is a pleasant, cool- 
ing and useful beverage. While on the contraiy, 
the acid and nasty wash that has passed through 
leaden pipes, and been otherwise carelessly and 
unskilfuliv made, is a perfect poison, producing 
colic, and not unfreqtiently, incurable obstruc- 
tions. 



TO MAKE PUNCH. 

For a gallon of punch take six fresh Sicily le- 
mons — rub the outsides of them well over with 
lumps of double refined loaf sugar, until they be- 
come quite yellow; throw the lumps into the bowl; 
roll your lemo.'s well on a clean plate or table, cut 
them in half and squeeze them with a proper in- 
strument over the sugar; bruise the sugar, and con- 
tinue to add fresh portions of it, mixing the lemon 
pidp and juice well witli it — much of the goodness 
of thepuncli will depend upon this. The quantity 
of sugar to be added, should be great enough to 
render llie mixture ivitbont -water pleasant to the 
jialate even of a child. Wlien this is obtained, add 
gradually a small quantity of hot water, just enough 
to render the sirup thin enough to pass through 
the strainer — mix all well together, strain it, and 
try if there be sugar enough: if at all sour a*dd 
more. When cold nut in a little cold water, and 
ecpial quantities of the best cognific brandy and old 
Jamaica rum, testing its strength by tiiat infallible 
guide the palate. A glass of calf's foot jelly av.',ded 
to the sirup when warm, will not injure its quali- 
ties. 

The great secret of making good punch may be 
given ill a few words: a great deal of fresii lemon 
juict — more than eiiougii of good sugar — a fair 
proportion of brandy and rum, and very little 
water. 

To make nectar. 

Put half a pound of loaf sugar into a large porce- 
lain jiig; add one pint of cold water; bruise and stir 
the sugar till it is completely dissolved; [louroverit 
half ■! bottle of liock and one bottle of madeira — 
mix them well together, and grate in half a nut- 
meg, with a drop or two of the essence of lemon — 
set the jug in a bucket of ice for one hour. 



TO MAKE BRITISH WINES. 

The different processes in wine making, range 
themselves under the following heads: 

Gathering the fruit, picking the fruit, bruising 
the fruit, and vatting the fruit. 

Vinous fermentation, flavouring the wine, draw- 
ing the niuft, pressing the husk, caskingtlie must. 

Spirituous fermentation, racking tlie wine, fining 
ihe wine, bottling and corking the wine. 
Gathering tlie fridt. 

Fruit of every sort, says Mr CarncJl, in his ex- 
cellent treatise on wine making, should be gather- 
ed HI fine weather; those of the berry kind often 
appear ripe to the eye before they are really so, 
therefore it is reipiisite tr taste them several limes 
in order to ascertain that they are arrived at the 
crisis of maturity. If the fruit be not ripe, the wine 
will be harsh and hard, unpleasant to the palate, 



and more so the stomach; it will also require more 
spirit and saccharine, and take a longer time to be 
fit for the table, li the fruit be too ripe, the wine 
from it will lie faint, low, and vapid; it will not be 
strong and generous; it will also requu-e more 
trouble, additional Sjiirit, and expense. 

Picking. 
Detach the unripe and bad berries: tiie resu.t, 
when the wine is (h-ank, will be greatly superior 
in rieliness. Pick stalks from grapes, currants, and 
gooseberries, previously to their being placed in 
the vat. 

Brmsing. 
The quantity of fruit for making a vintage of do- 
mestic wine, is not so largfe but it may be bruised 
in a tub, and from thence removed into the vat, o< 
if die quantity be very small, it may be bruised iv- 
the vat. W'liile the fruit is picking by one person 



vvines. 



123 



anoitier may oruise it, and as it is bruised, remove 
it into the vat. When Malaga or SmjTna raisins 
are used, they are to b j put into the vat with the 
■water, to soak, and the flowing day taken out and 
bruised, then returned into the vat again. 
Vatting. 

The first thing to be done is to place the guard 
against the tap-!.ole, to prevent the husks escaping 
at the time the must or extract is drawn off. When 
all the fruit is in the vat the water should be added, 
and the contents stirred with the vat-staff, and left 
to macerate until the next day, when sugar, tartar, 
&c. diluted with some of the liquor, is to be put in- 
to the vat, and the whole again stirred up. Tlie 
place where tlie vat is situated should have a free 
circulation of ah-, and a temperature of not less tlian 
58 degrees. If the vinous fermentation do not take 
place in a reasonable time, the contents must be 
often stirred, and the place made warmer. 
Vinous fermentation. 

The time of a vinous fermentation commencing 
jS always uncertain; it depends much on the qual- 
ity and quantity of the contents of the vat, on its 
local situation, 0!J the season or weather, and most 
particularly on the greenness or ripeness of the 
fruit. To produce a medium vinous fermentation, 
the vats and contents ought to be placed in a tem- 
perature from 60 to 70 degrees. And if th.is is 
found not to produce fermentation in a short time, 
the temperature of the place must be made warm- 
er, and the vat often stirred with tlie vat-staff. 

The commencement of the vinous fermentation 
may be known by piungingthe thermometer into the 
middle of the vat, for a minute, and when taken 
out, if a fermentation has commenced, the tempe- 
rature of the contents will be higher than at the 
place where the vats are situated. When the vi- 
nous fermentation begins, it is very conspicuous, 
and may be known by its taste, smell, appearance, 
and effects. The contents will first gently rise, 
and swell with a slight movement and a little hiss- 
ing. A considerable motion will take place, and 
the contents will increase in heat and bulk, while 
a quantity of air escapes. 

It is impossible to lay down an exact time for a 
vinous fermentation; but for eighteen gallons, two 
or three days are generally sufficient for white 
wines; and red wines i-equire a day or two more. 
Flavouring the -wine. 

W hen the vinous fermentation is about half over, 
the flavouring ingredients are to be put into the vat 
and well stiri'ed into the contents. If almonds form 
a component part, they are first to be beaten to a 

Saste and mixed with a pint or two of the must. 
Tutmegs, cinnamon, ginger, seeds, &c. should, be- 
fore they are put into the vat, be reduced to pow- 
der, and mixed with some of the inust. 
Drawing the must. 

When the must in the vat gives, by tasting, a 
strong -vinous pungency, that is the period to stop 
the remaining slight ftvmentation by drawing off 
the must, in order to have strong and generous 
wine. 

A cock, or spicket and faucet is to be put into 
tlie tap-hole of the vat, and tlie must drawn off and 
put into open vessels, there to remain till the pres- 
sing is finished. 

Pressing the hiisk. 

As soon as all the must is drawn off from the 
vat, the husks are to be nut into hair-bags, and the 
moutn of the bag is to De well fastened, then put 
into the press, and the whole pressed without de- 
lay. The must that is pressed out is to be mixed 
with the must that was drawn off from the vat. 
Many ways may be contrived for jiressing a small 
vintage, for tliose jiersons w]io cannot afford to 
purehrfse a proper wine-press; but several wines do 



not require pressing, and may be strained through 
a sweet, clean, canvass bag, made with a p&iiitcd 
end downwards. 

Cashing the must. 

Each cask is to be filled within about an inch ot 
the bung-hole, which should be covered over light- 
ly with a flat piece of wood. Tlie rnusjt now is 
perfectly cool and calm, and will remain in this 
state until the spirituous fermentation commences. 
Spirituous fermentation. 

The spirituous fermentation is essentially neces- 
sary to the claritication, goodness, and perfection 
of the wine. If the vinous fermentation has been 
well conducted, and the wine cellar be not too cold, 
a spirituous fermentation will commence in a few- 
days, and abate in six or twelve days, the time de- 
pending on circumstances, and on the quality and 
quantity of the wine. The brandy or spirit assign- 
ed should at this time be put to the wine by pour- 
ing it in gently without disturbing the wine. The 
cask now, if not full, must be filled Uf) and bunged 
with a wooden bung covered with a piece of new 
canvass larger than the bung. In about a month 
after the spirit has been added, the cask will again 
want filling up, this should be done with the over- 
plus of tile vintage, if not with some other good 
wine, and the cask re-bunged very tight. 

The cask should be pegged once a month or of- 
tener to see if the wine be clear and not thick, and 
as soon a. it is fine and bright, it must be rackv-d 
off its lees. 

Racking the -wine. 

This is an operation highly requisite to the keep- 
ing wine good; to its purification, strength, colour, 
brilliancy, richness, and flavour, and is performed 
by drawing off the -imie and leaving the lees in the 
cask. A siphon should be used: but if not, the 
cask should be tapped two or three days previous- 
ly. It may be racked off into anotlier cask, or into 
a vat or tub, and returned into the same cask again, 
after it has been ivell cleaned: and, if requisite, the 
cask may be slightly fumigated, immediately be- 
fore the wine is returned into it. If the wine, on 
being tasted, is found weak, a little spirit is to be 
given to it, the cask filled up and bunged tight. 

The racking oft' ought to be performed in tempe- 
rate weather, and as soon as the wines appear clear, 
a second racking will make them perfectly brilliant, 
and if so, they will want no fining. 
Fining. 

Many wines require fining before they are rack- 
ed, and the operation of fining is not always neces- 
sary. Most wines, well made, do not want fining; 
this may be ascertained by drawing a little into a 
glass, from s. peg-hole. 

One of the best finings is as follows: — Take one 
pound of fresh marsh-mallow i-ools, washed clean, 
and cut into small pieces; macerate them in two 
quarts of soft water, for twenty-four hours, then 
gently boil the liquor down to three lialf pints, 
strain it, and when cold mix with it half an ounce 
of pipe-day or chalk in powder, then pour tlie mu- 
cilage into the cask, and stir up the wine so as not 
to disturb the lees, and leave the vent-peg out for 
some days after. 

Or, take boiled rice, two table-spoonsful, the 
while of one new egg, and half an ounce of burnt 
alum, in powder. iSlix with a pint or more of the 
wine, then puur the mucilage into the cask, and 
stir the wine with a stout stick, but not to agitate 
the lees. 

Or, dissolve, in a gentle heat, half an ounce of 
isinglass in a pint or more of the wine, then mix 
I with it half an ounce of chalk, in powder; wher 
I ihe two are well incorporated, pour it into the 
I cask, and stir the wine, so as not to disturb the 
I lees. 



124 



UNIVERSAL RECEirr BOOK. 



As soon as wines are clear and bright, after be- 
ing fined down, they ought to be racked into a 
Bweet and clean cask, the cask filled up and bung- 
ed tight. 

Bottling and corking. 

Fine clear weather is best for bottling all sorts 
of wines, and much cleanliness is required. The 
first consideration, in bottling wines, is to examine 
and see if the wines are in a proper state. The 
■wines should be fine mid brilUant, or they will 
never brighten after. 

The bottles must be all sound, clean and dry, with 
plenty of good sound corks. 

The cork is to be put in with the hand, and then 
driven well in with a flat wooden mallet, the weight 
of which ought to be a fmind and a quarter, but 
Iwwever, not to exceed a pound and a half, for if 
the mallet be too light or too heavy it will not 
drive the cork in properly, and may break the bot- 
tle. The corks must so completely fill up the neck 
of each bottle as to render them air tight, but leave 
a space of an inch between the wine and the cork. 

When all the wine is bottled, it is to be stored 
in a cool cellar, and on no account on the bottles'' 
bottoms, but on their sides and in saw-dust. 
Apparatus for luine malcing. 

To make wine well, and with facility, persons 
should have all the rei-uisite apparatus, namely, the 
vats, vat-staft", fruit-bruiser, strainer, hair-bags, i 
wine-press, thermometer, and bottling machine. 

Mr Carnell's receipt for red gooseberry ivine. 

Take cold soft water, 10 gallons,— red goose- 
berries, 11 gallons, and ferment. Now mix raw 
sugar, 16 lbs.— beet-root, sliced, 2 lbs. and red 
tartar, in fine powder, 3 ounces. Afterwards put 
in sassafras chips, 1 lb. and brandy, 1 gallon, or 
less. This will make 18 gallons. 

Jimther.—When the weather is dr)', gather 
gooseberries about the time they are halt ripe; i)ick 
them clean, put the quantity of a peck into a con- 
venient vessel, and bruise them wuh a piece of 
wood, taking as much care as possible to keep the 
seeds whole. Now bavins; put the pulp into a can- 
vass bag, press out all the juice; and to every gal- 
lon of the gooseberries add about three pounds of 
fine loaf sugar: mix the whole together by stirring 
it with a stick, and as soon as the sugar is quite 
dissolved, pour it into a convenient cask, which 
will hold it exactly. If the quantity be about 8 or 
9 galloiis, let it stand a fortnight; if 20 gallons, lO 
days, and so on in proportion; taking care the 
place you set it in be cool. After standing the 
proper time, draw it off from the lees, and put it 
into another clean vessel of equal size, or into the 
same, after pouring the lees out, and making it 
clean; let a cask often or twelve gallons stand tor 
about three months, and twenty gallons for five 
months, after which it will he fit tVr bottling oft. 
Red and -white gooseberry ivine. 

Take cold soft water, 3 gallons, red gooseberries, 
l^ gallons, white gooseberries, two gallons. Fer- 
ment. 

Now mix i-aw sugar, 5 lbs. honey, 1^ lbs. tartar, 
in fine powder, 1 oz. Afterwards put in bitter al- 
monds, two ounces, sweet-briar, one small handful, 
and brandy one gallon, or less. This will make 
six gallons. 

White gooseberry or champagne wins. 
Take cold soft water, 4^ gallons, white gooseber- 
ries, 5 gallons. P'erment. 

Now mix refined sugar, 6 pounds, — honey, 4 
pounds,— white tartar, in fine powder, 1 oz. Put 
in oi-an!?e and lemon peel, 1 oz. dry, or two ounces 
fresh; and add white brandy half a gallon. This 
will make nine gallons. 

Gooseberry -wine of the best quality, resembling 
champagne. 
To each Scotch pint of full ripe gooseberries. 



mashed, add 1 Scotch pint of water, milk warm, 
in which has been dissolved 1 lb. of single refined 
sugar: stir the whole well, and cover up the tub 
with a blanket, to preser\e the heat generated by 
the fermentation of the ingredients: let them re- 
main in this vessel three days,stirring them twice 
or thrice a day: strain off the liquor through a 
sieve, afterwards through a coa.-se linen cloth; 
put it into the cask: it will ferment without 
yeast. Let the cask be, kept full with some of the. 
liquor reserved for the purpose. It will ferment 
for ten days, sometimes for three weeks: when 
ceased, and only a hissing noise remains, draw oft 
two or three bottles, according to the strength you 
wish it to have, from every ^0 pint cask, and fill 
up the cask with brandy or whiskey; but brandy is 
preferable. To make it very good, and that it may 
keep well, add as much sherry, together with a ^ 
oz. of isinglass dissolved in water to make it quite 
liquid; stii the whole well. Eung the cask up, and 
surround the bung with clay; the closer it is bung- 
ed, the better; a fortnight after, if it be clear at 
top, taste it; if not sweet enough, add more sugar; 
22 lbs. is the just quantity in all for 20 pints of 
wine; leave the wine six months in the cask; but 
after being quite fine, the sooner it is bottled, the 
more it will sparkle and resemble champagne. 
The process sh-)yld be carried on in a place where 
a.e heat is between 48 deg. and .'i6 deg. Fahren- 
heit. — N.B. Currant wine may be made in the 
same manner. 

To make British champagne. 

Take gooseberries before they are ripe, crush 
them with a mallet in a wooden bowl, and to 
every gallon of fru'.t put a gallon of v/ater; let i< 
stand two days, stirring it veil; squt-eze the mix-, 
ture well with the hands through a h')j:-sieve; theu 
measure the liquor, and to every gallon put 3| lbs. 
of loaf-sugar; mix it well in the tub, and !el it stand 
one day: put a bottle of the best brandy into the 
cask; which leave open five or six weeks, taking off 
the scum as it rises; then make it up, and let it 
stand one year in the ban-el before it is bottled. 

The proportion of brandv to be used for this li- 
quor, is one pint to 7 gallons. 

Gooseberry and currant -mine mixed. 

Take cold soft water, 6 gallons, — goosebenies, 
4 do. — currants, 4 do. Ferment. 

Mix, raw sugar, 12 lbs. — honey, P. lbs. and tar- 
tar, in fine powder, Ij oz. — bitter almonds, 1| oz. 
Put in brandy, 6 pints or more. This will make 
12 gallons. 

A7iother. — Take cold soft water, 5| gallons, — 
gooseberries and currants, 4 gallons. Ferment. 
Then add — raw sugar, 12^ lbs. — tartar, in fine 
powder, 1 oz. — ginger, in powder, 3 ounces — 
sweet marjoram, half a handful, — British spirits, 1 
quart. This will make 9 gallons. 
lied currant ivine. 

Take cold soft water, U gallons — red currants, 
8 gallons, — raspberries, 1 quart. Ferment. Mix, 
raw sugar, 20 lbs. — beet-root, sliced, 2 lbs. and red 
tartar, in fine powder, 3 ounces. Put in 1 nutmeg, 
in fine powder; add brandy, 1 gallon. This will 
make 18 gallons. 

Another. — Put five quarts of currants and a pint 
of raspberries to every two gallons of .vater; let 
them soak a night; then squeeze and break them 
well. Next day rub tliem well through a^ne sieve 
till the juice is expresse-"j washing the skins with 
some of the water; then, to every gallon, put four 
pounds of the best sugar, put it into your barrel, 
an J set the bung lightly in. In two or three days 
add a bottle of good cogniae brandy to every four 
gallons; bung it close, but leave out the spiggot for 
a few days. It is very good in three years, better 
m four. 

Another.— Boil four gallons of sjwtng water, and 



WINES. 



l2o 



stir into it 8 lbs. of honey; when thoroughly dis- 
solved, take it off* the fire; then stir it well in order 
to raise the scum, which take clean off, and cool 
the liquor. 

When thus prepared, press out the same quan- 
tity of the juice of red currants moderately ripe, 
which being well strained, mix well with the wa- 
ter and honey, then put them into a cask, or a large 
earthen vessel, and let them stand to ferment for 
24 hours; then t-^ every gallon add 2 lbs. of fine su- 
gar, stir t'uem wel'i to raise the scum, and when 
well settled, take it off, and add half an oz. of 
cream of tartar, with the whites of two or three 
eggs, to refine it. When the wine is well settled 
<»nd clear, draw it off into a small vessel, or bottle 
It up, keeping it in a cool place. 

Of white currants a wine after the same manner 
may be made, that will equal in strength and plea- 
santness many sorts of white wine; but as for the 
black or Dutch currants, they are seldom used, 
except for the preparation of medicinal wines. 

Another. — Gather the currants in dry weather, 
put them into a pan and bruise them with a wooden 
pestle; let them stand about 20 hour?, after which 
sti'ain through a sieve; add 3 lbs. of fine powdered 
sugar to each 4 quarts of the liquor, and after shak- 
ing it well, fill the vessel, and put a quart of good 
brandy to every ^seven gallons. In 4 weeks, if it 
does not prove quite clear, draw it off into another 
vessel, and let it stand previous to bottling it off 
about 10 days. 

Red and rolute currant ■wine. 
Take of cold soft water, 12 gallons; white cur- 
rants, 4 do. ; red currants, 3 do. Ferment. Mix, 
raw sugar, 25 lbs. ; white tartar, in fine powder, 3 
o'z. Put in sweet-briar leaves, 1 handful; lavender 
leaves, 1 do.; then add spirits, 2 quarts or more. 
This Avill make 18 gallons. 

Dutch currant -rmne. 
Take of cold soft water, 9 gallons; red currants, 
10 do. Ferment. Mix, raw sugar, 10 lbs. ; beet- 
root, sliced, 2!bs. ; red tartar, in fine powder, 2 oz. 
Put in bitter almonds, 1 oz. ; ginger, in powder, 2 
oz. then add brandy, 1 quart. This will make 18 
gallons. 

Dzetch red currant wine. 
Take of cold soft water, II gallons; red currants, 
S do. Ferment. Mix, raw sugar, 12 lbs.; red 
jartar, in fine powder, 2 oz. Put in coriander 
leed, bruised, 2 oz. then add British spirit, 2 quarts. 
This will make 18 gallons. 

Mixed berries from a small garden. 
Take of cold soft water, 11 gallons; fruit, 8 do. 
Ferment. Mix, treacle, 14 or 16 lbs. ; tartar, in 
powder, 1 oz. Put in ginger, in powder, 4 oz.; 
sweet herbs, 2 handsful: then add spirits, 1 or 2 
quarts. This will make 18 gallons. 
To make compound -wine. 
An excellent family wine may be made of equal 
parts of red, white, and black currants, ripe cher- 
ries, and raspberries, well bruised, and mixed with 
soft water, in the proportion of 4 lbs. of fruit to 1 
gallon of water. When strained and pressed, 3 
lbs. of moist sugar are to be added to each gallon 
of liquid. After standing open for 3 days, during 
which it is to be stirred frequently, it is to be put 
into a barrel, and left for a fortnight to work, when 
a ninth part of brandy is to be added, and the whoie 
bunged down. In a few months it will be a most 
excellent wine. 

Other mixed fruits of the berry kind. 
Take of cold soft water, 2 gallons; fruit, 18 do. 
Ferment. Honey, 6 lbs. ; tartar, in fine powder, 2 
oz. Put in peach leaves, 6 handsful: then add 
orandy, 1 gallon. This will make 38 gallons. 
White currant wine. 
Take of cold soft water, 9 gallons; white currants, 



9 do. ; white gooseberries, 1 do. Ferment. Mix, 
refined sugar, 25 lbs. ; white tartar, in powder, 1 
oz.; clary seed, bruised, 2 oz. or clary flowers, 9r 
sorrel flowers, 4 handsful: tlien add white brandy, 
1 gallon. This will make 18 gallons. 

Another. — Take of cold soft water, 10 gallons; 
white cun-ants, 10 do. Ferment. Mix, refined 
sugar, 25 lbs. ; white tartar, in fine powder, 1 oz. 
then add, bitter almonds, 2 oz. and white brandy, 
oae gallon. This will make eighteen gallons, 
Jilack czrrant wine. 
Take of cold soft water, 10 gallons; black cur- 
rants, 6 do. ; strawberries, 3 do. Ferment. Mix, 
raw sugar, 25 lbs.; red tartar, in fine powder, 6 oz. 
orange-thyme, 2 handsful: then add brandy, 2 or 3 
quarts. This will make eighteen gallons. 

Another. — Take of cold soft water, 12 gallons; 
black currants, 5 do.; white or red currants, or 
both, 3 do. Ferment. Mix, raw sugar, 30 lbs. or 
less; red tartar, in fine powder, 5 oz.; ginger in 
powder, 5 oz. ; then add brandy, 1 gallon, or less. 
This will make 18 gallons. 

Another, very fine. — To every three quarts of 
juice, add as much of cold water, and to every 
three quarts of the mixture, add three pounds of 
good, pure sugar. Put it into a cask, reserving 
some to fill up. Set the cask in a warm dry room, 
and it will ferment of itself When this is over, 
skim off the refuse, and fill up with what you have 
reserved for this purpose. When it has done work- 
ing, add three quarts of brandy to forty quarts of 
the wine. Bung it up close for ten months, then 
bottle it. The thick part may be separated by 
straining, and the percolating liquor be bottled 
also. Keep it for twelve months. 
Strawberry wine. 
Take of cold soft water, 7 gallons; cider, 6 do.; 
strawberries, 6 do. Ferment. Mix, raw sugar, 
16 lbs.; red tartar, in fine powder, 3 oz. ; the peel 
and juice of 2 lemons: then add brandy, 2 or 3 
quarts. This will make 18 gallons. 

Another. — Take of cold soft water, 10 gallons; 
strawberries, 9 do. Ferment. Mix, raw sugar, 
25 lbs. ; red tartar, in fine powder, 3 oz. ; 2 lemons 
and 2 oranges, peel and juice: then add brandy, I 
gallon. This will make 18 gallons. 
Raspberry -wine. 
Take of cold soft water, 6 gallons; cider, 4 do» 
raspberries, 6 do. ; any other fruit, 3 do. Ferment 
Mix, raw sugar, 18 or 20 lbs.; red tartar, in fine 
powder, 3 oz. ; orange and lemon peel, 2 oz. dry, 
or 4 oz. fresh: then add brandy, 3 quarts. This 
will make 18 gallons. 

Another. — Gather the raspberries when ripe, 
husk them and bruise them; then strain them 
through a bag into jars or other vessels. Boil the 
juice, and to evety gallon put a pound and a half 
of lump sugar. Now add whites of eggs, and let 
the whole boil for fifteen minutes; skimming it as 
the froth rises. When cool and settled, decant 
the liquor into a cask, adding yeast to make it fer- 
ment. When this has taken place, add a pint of 
white wine, or half a pint of proof spirit to each 
gallon contained in the cask, and hang a bag in it 
containing an ounce of bruised mace. In three 
months, if kept in a cool place, it will be very ex- 
cellent and delicious wine> 

Mulberry wine. 
On a dry day, gather mulberries, when they are 
just changed from redness to a shining black; 
spread them thinly on a fine cloth, or on a lioor or 
table, for twenty-four hours; and then press them. 
Boil a gallon of wattr with each gallon of juice; 
putting to every gallon of water an ounce of cinna- 
mon bark, and six ounces of sugar candy finely 
powdered. Skim and strain the water, when it ia 
taken off and settled, and put to it the mulberry 



126 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



juice. Now Ai\(\ to every j^allon of the mixture a 
pint of white or Tlhenish wine. Let the whole 
8taH(5 in a task to ferment, for five or six days. 
When settled, di'aw it off into bottles, and keeji it 
cool. 

Elder-berry toine. 

Take of cold soft water, 16 gallons, Malaga 
raisins, 50 lbs. elder-berries, 4 gallons, red tartar, 
in fine poivder, 4 ounces. Mix giager, in pow- 
der, 5 ounces, cinnamon, cloves, and mace, of 
each 2 ounces, 3 oranges or lemons, peel and juice. 
Then add 1 gallon of brandy. This will make 18 
gallons. 

Another. — In making elder juice, let the berries 
be fully ripe, and all the stalks be clean picked 
from them; then, have a press ready for drawing 
off all the juice, and four iiair cloths, somewhat 
broader than the press: lay one layer above another, 
having a haircloth betwixt every layer, which must 
be laid very thin, and pressed a little at first, and 
then more till the press be di'awn as close as possi- 
ble. Now take*out the berries, and press all the 
rest in the like manner: then take the pressed ber- 
ries, break out all the lumps, put th"ni into an open 
headed vessel, and add as much liquor as will just 
cover them. Let them infuse so for seven or eight 
days; then put the best juice into a cask proper for 
it to be kept in, and add one gallon of malt spirits, 
not rectified, to every twenty gallons of elder juice, 
whicii will effectually preserve it from becoming 
sour for two years at least. 

Another. — Pick the berries when quite ripe, put 
them into a stone jar, and set them in an oven, or 
in a kettle of boiling water, till the jar is hot 
through, then take them out, and strain them 
through a coarse sieve: squeeze the berries, and 
put the juice into a clean kettle. To every quart 
of juice put a pound of fine Lisbon sugar: let it boil, 
and skim it well. When clear and fine, pour it 
into a cask. To every ten gallons of wine add an 
ounce of isinglass dissolved in cider, and six whole 
eggs. Close it up, let it stand six months, and 
then bottle it. 

To make an imitation of Cr/pnis -wine. 

To ten gallons of water put ten cpiarts of the 
juice of white elder berries, pressed gently from 
the berries by the hand, and passed through a sieve, 
without bruising the seeds; add to every gallon of 
liquor three pounds of Lisbon sugar, and to the 
whole quantity two ounces of ginger sliced, and 
one ounce of cloves. Boil this nearly an hour, 
taking off the scum as it rises, and pour the whole 
to cool, in an open tub, and work it with aie yeast, 
spread upon a toast of bread for three days. Then 
turn it into a vessel that will just hold it, adding 
about a pound and a half of bruised raisins, to lie 
in the liquor till drawn off, which should not be 
done till the wine is fine. 

This wine is so much like the fine rich wine 
brought from the island of Cyprus, in colour, taste, 
and flavour, that it has deceived the best judges. 
To make elder-Jiotver ivine; or English Frontiniac. 

Boil eighteen pounds of white powdered sugar 
in six gallons of water, and two whites of eggs well 
beaten; skim it, and put in a quarter of a peck of 
elder-flowers; do not keep them on the fire. When 
cool, stir it, and put in six spoonsful of lemon juice, 
four or five of yeast, and beat well into the liquor; 
stir it well every day; put six pounds of the best 
raisins, stoned, into tlie cask, and tun the wine. 
Stop it close, and bottle i.i six months. When 
well kept, this wine will pass very well for Fron- 
tiniac. 

Another. — To six gallons of spring water put six 
pounds of sun raisins cut small, and a dozen pounds 
of fine sugar; boil the whole together for about an 
hoar and a half. When the liquor is cold, put 



half a peck of ripe elder-flowers in, with about 9 
gill of lemon juice, and half the quantity of ale 
yeast. Cover it up, and after standing three days, 
strain it off. Now poiu' it into a cask that is quite 
clean and that will hold it with ense. When this 
is done, put a quart of Rhenish w i:ie to every gal- 
lon; let the bung be slightly put in for twelve o\- 
fourteen days; tJien stop it down fast, ami p^ii it in 
a cool diy place for four or five months, till it be 
quite settled and fine; then bottle it off. 
Imitation of port ivine. 

Take 6 gallons of good cider; I^ gallons of port 
wine; 1^ gallons of the juice of elder-berries; 3 
quarts of brandy; 1| ounces of cochineal. I'his 
will procI'iCQ 0^ gallons. 

Bruise the cochineal very fine, and put it wiili 
the brandy into a stone bottle; let it remain at least 
a fortnight, shaking it well once or twice everv 
day; at the end of that time procure the cider, and 
put five gallons into a nine galljn cask, add to it 
the elder juice and port wine, then tlie brandy and 
cochineal. Take the remaining gallon of cider to 
rinse out the bottle that contained the brandy; and 
lastly, pour it into the cask, and bung it down 
very close, and in six weeks it will be readv for 
bottling. 

It is, however, sometimes not quite so fine as 
could be wished: in that case add two ounces of 
isinglass, and let it remain a fortnight or three 
weeks longer, when it will be perfectly bright: it 
would not be amiss, perhaps, if the quantity of 
isinglass mentioned was added to the wine before 
it was bunged down; it will tend v*^ry considera- 
bly to improve the body of the wine. If it should 
not appear sufficiently rough flavoured, add an 
ounce, or an ounce and a half of roche-alum, which 
will, in most cases, impart a sufficient astringency. 

After it is bottled, it must be packed in as cool 
a place as possible. It will befit for using in a few 
months; but if kept longer, it will be greatly im- 
proved. 

Wortleberry or bilberry -wine. 

Take of cold soft water, 6 gallons; cider, 6 gal- 
lons; berries, 8 gallons. Ferment. Mix, i-aw su- 
gar, 2U pounds; tartar, in fine powder, 4 ounces. 
i Add ginger, in powder, 4 ounces; lavender and 
rosemary leaves, 'iliandsful; rum or Britisli spirits, 
1 gallon. I'his will make 18 gallons. 
Birch -mine. 

The season for obtaining the liquor from birch- 
trees, is in the laiter end of Februar}^ or llie be- 
ginning of March, before the leaves shoot out, and 
as the sap begins to rise. If the time is delayed, 
the juice will grow too thick to be drawn out. It 
should be as thin and clear as possible. The me- 
thod of procuring the juice is by boring holes in 
the trunk of the tree, and fixing faucets of elder; 
but care should be taken not to tap it in too many 
places at once, for fear of injuring the tree. If the 
tree is large, it may be bored in five or six places 
at once, and bottles are to be placed under the 
aperture for the sap to flow into. When four or 
five gallonshave been extracted from different trees, 
cork the bottles very close, and wax them till the 
wine is to be made, which should be as soon as 
possible after the sap has been obtained. Boil the 
sap, and put four pounds of loaf sugar to every gal- 
ion, also the peel of a lemon cut tiiin; then boil it 
again for nearly an hour, skimming it all the time. 
Now pour it into a tub, and ss soon as it is almost 
cold, work it with a toast spread with yeast, and 
let it stand five or six days, stirring it twice or 
three times each day. Into a cask that will contain 
it, put a lighted brimstone match, stop it up till 
the match is burnt out, and then pour the wine into 
it, putting the bung lightly in, till it has done 
working. Bung it very close for about three months, 



WINES. 



1^7 



and th=n bottle it It will be good in a week after 
ik is put into the bottles. 

Another. — Uirch wine may be made with raisins, 
m the following manner: To a hogshead of birch- 
water, take four hundred of Malaga raisins: pick 
them clean from the stalks, and cut them small. 
Then boil the birci. liquor for onp hour at least, 
skirn it well, and let it stand till it be no warmer 
than milk. Then put in the raisins, and let it 
stand close covered, stirring it well four or five 
times every day. Boil all the stalks in a gallon or 
two of birch liquor, whi'jh, when added to the other, 
when almost cold, will give it an agreeable roug^h- 
ness. Let it stand ten days, then put it in a cool 
cellar, and when it has done hissing in the vessel, 
stop it Tip close. It must stand at least nine months 
before it is bottled. 

Blackberry -wine. 

Having procured berries that are fully ripe, put 
them into a large vessel of wood or stone, with a 
cock in it, and pour upon them as much boiling 
water as will cover them. As soon as the hea{ will 
permit the hand to be put into the vessel, bruise 
them well till all the berries are broken. Then 
let them stand covered till the berries begin to rise 
towards the top, which they usually do in three or 
four days. Then draw off the clear into another 
vessel, and add to every ten quarts of this liquor, a 
pound of sugar. Stir it well and let it stand to 
work a week or ten days, in another vessel like 
the first. Then draw it off at the cock through a 
jelly-bag into a large vessel. Take four ounces 
of isinglass, and lay it to steep twelve hours in a 
pint of white wine. The next morning, boil it upon 
a slow fire till it is all dissolved. Then take a gal- 
lon of blackberry-juice, put in the dissolved isin- 
glass, give them a boil together, and pour all into 
the vessel. Let it stand a few days to purge and 
settle, then draw it off, and keep it in a cool place. 
Spruce -wine. 

For this, which is only a superior sort of white 
spruce beer, proceed as follows: To every gallon 
of water take 1^ lbs. of honey, and § lb. of fine 
starch. The starch however, previously to its be- 
ing blended with the honey, liquor or syrup, must 
be reduced to a transparent jelly, by boiling it 
with part of the water pui'posely preserved. A 
quarter of a pound of essence of spruce may be used 
to 6 gallons of water; and the same method may be 
pursued in working, fining and bottling, as directed 
for white spruce beer. 

Spruce is a wholesome and pleasant drink to 
those who are used to it, and persons soon become 
habituated. It contains a vast quantity of fixed air, 
which is exti'emely bracing; and the use of this 
liquor is particularly to be recommended to such 
as are troubled with scorbutic humours, or have 
the gravel. It is chiefly used in summer. 
Juiiiper-berrij luine. 

Take of cold soft water, 18 gallons, Malaga or 
Smyrna raisins, 35 lbs. juniper berries, 9 quarts, 
red tartar, 4 ounces, wormwood and sweet maijo- 
rara, each 2 handsful, British spirit, two quarts or 
more. Ferment for ten or twelve days. 'I'his will 
make eighteen gallons. 

To make damson -wine. 

Take of cold soft water, 11 gallons, damsons, 8 
gallons. Ferment. Mix raw sugar, 30 lbs. red 
lartar, in fine powder, 6 oz. Add brandy, 1 gal- 
lon. This will make 18 gallons. 

" When the must," sayS Mr Carnell, " has fer- 
mented 2 days, (dui-ing which time it should be 
stirred up two or three times,) take out of the vat 
about 2 or 3 quarts of the stones, and break tliem 
and the kernels, and then return them into the vat 
again." 

Another method, — Take a coasiderable qviantit 



of damsons and common plums inclining to ripe- 
ness: slit them in halves, so that the stones maybe 
taken out, then mash them gently, and add a little 
water and honey. Add to eveiy gallon of the pulp 
a gallon of spring water, with a few bay leaves and 
cloves; boil the mixtui^e, and add as much sugar as 
will sweeten it; skim oft' the froths, and let it cool. 
Now press the trait, squeezing out the liquid part; 
strain all through a fine strainer, and put the wa- 
ter and juice together in a cask. Having allowed 
the whole to stand and ferment for three or four 
days, fine it with white sugar, flour and white of 
eggs; draw it ofi" into bottles, then cork it well. 
In twelve days it will be ripe, and will taste like 
weak Fort, having tJie flavour of Canary. 

Another. — Gather the damsons on a dry day, 
weigh them, and then bruise them. Put them into 
a stein that has a cock in it, and to every 8 pounds 
of fruit add a gallon of water. Boil the water, 
skim it and put it scalding hot to the fruit. Let 
it stand two days, then draw it off and put it into a 
vessel, and to every gallon of liquor put 2^ lbs. of 
fine sugar. Fill up the vessel, and stop it close, 
and the "onger it stands tlie better. Keep it for 
twelve months in the vessel, and then bottle, put- 
ting a lump of sugar into every bottle. The small 
damson is the best for this purpose. 
Cherry ivine. 

Take of cold soft water, 10 gallons — cherries, 10 
gallons — Ferment. Mix raw sugar, 30 lbs. — red 
tartar, in fine powder, 3 oz. Add brandy, 2 or 3 
quarts. This will make 18 gallons. 

Two days after tlie cherries have been in the 
vat, Mr Carnell says, we should take out about 3 
quarts of the cherry stones, break them and the 
kernels, and return them into Uie vat again. 

Another. — Take cherries nearly r)[)e, of any red 
sort, clear them of the stalks and stones, then put 
them into a glazed earthen vessel, and squeeze 
them to a pulp. Let them remain in this state for 
12 hours to ferment; then put them into a linen 
cloth not too fine and press out the juice with a 
pressing board, or any other convenient instru- 
ment. Now let the liquor sta„d till the scum ri- 
ses, and with a ladle or skimmer take it clean oft"; 
then pour the clear part, by inclination, into a cask, 
where, to each gallon, put a pound of the best loaf 
sugar, and let it fern'.ent for seven or eight days. 
Draw it oft", when clear, into lesser casks or bot- 
tles; keep it cool, as other wines, and in ten or 
twelve days it will be ripe. 

To make JMorella -wine. 

Cleanse from the stalks sixty pounds of Morella 
cherries, and bruise them so that the stones shall 
be broken. Now press out the juice and mix it 
with 6 gallons of sherry wine, and 4 gallons of 
warm water. Having grossly powdered separate 
ounces of nutmeg, cinnamon, and mace, hang them 
separately, in small bags, in the cask containing 
the mixture. Bung it down and in a few weeks it 
will become a deliciously flavoured wine. 
To make peach wine. 

Take of cold soft water, 18 gallons, refined su- 
gar, 25 lbs. honey, 6 lbs. white tartar, in fine pow- 
der, 2 ounces, peaches, sixty or eighty in num- 
ber. Ferment. Then add 2 gallons of brandy. 
This will make 18 gallons. 

The Jlrst division is to be put into the vat, and 
the day after, before the peaches are put in, take 
the stones from them, break tliem and the kernels, 
then put them and the pulp into the vat, and pro- 
ceed with the general process. 

Peach and apricot wine. 

Take peaches, nectarines. Sec. pare them, and 
take the stones out; then slice them thin, and pour 
over them from a gallon to two gallons of water, 
and a quart of white wine. Place the whole on a 



1! 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



fire to simmer gently for a consiilerable time, till 
the sliced fruit becomes soft; pour otf the liquid 
part into snotber vessel cciitainiiig' more peaches 
tliat have been sliced but not heated; let them stand 
for twelve hours, then pour out the liquid part, and 
press what remains through a fine hair bag. Let 
the whole be now put into u cask to ferment; add 
of loaf sugar, a pound and a half to eacli gallon. 
Boil well, an ounce of beaten cloves in a quart of 
white wine, and add it to the above. 

Apricot wine may be made by only bruising the 
fruit and pouring the hot liquor over it. This 
wine does not require so much sweeteuing. To 
give it a curious flavour, boil an ounce of raace, and 
half an ounce of nutmegs, in a quart of white v/ine; 
and -vhen the wine is fermenting pour the liquid 
in liot. In about twenty days, or a month these 
Wines will be fit for bottling. 

Apricot ivine. 

Boil together three pounds of sugar, and three 
quarts of water; and skim it well. Put in six 
pounds of apricots pared and stoned, and let them 
boil till they become tender. Then take them up, 
and when the liquor is cold, bottle it. After tak- 
ing out the apricots, lettlie liquor be boiled with 
a sprig of flowered clary. The apricots will make 
marmalade, and be very good for present use. 
Ijemon xoiiie. 

Pare off the rinds of 6 large lemons, cut them, 
and squeeze out the juice. Steep the rinds in the 
juice, and put to it a quart of brandy. Let it 
stand three days in an earthen pot close stopped; 
then squeeze 6 more, and mix with it 2 quarts of 
spring water, and as much sugar as will sweeten 
the whole. Boil the water, lemons, and sugar to- 
gether, and let it stand till it be cool. Then add a 
quart of white wiiie, and the other lemons and 
brandy; mix them together, and run it thiough a 
flannel bag into some vessel. Let it stand three 
months and then bottle it off. Cork the bottles 
well; keep it cool, and it will be fit to drink in a 
month or six weeks. 

Another. — Pare 5 dozen of lemons very thin, put 
the peels into 5 qrirts of French brandy, and let 
tiiem stand 14 days. Then make the juice into a 
syrup with 3 ibs. of single refined sugar, and wlien 
the peels are ready, boil 15 gsillons of water with 
VO lbs. of single refined sug^.r for half an hour. 
Then put it into a tub, and when cool add to it one 
spoonful of yeast, and let it work two days. Theii 
tun it, and put in the brandy, peels, and syrup. 
'Stir them all together, and close un the cask. Let 
it stand three months, then bottle it, and it will be 
as pale and as fine as any citron water. 
Apple xvhite -wine. 

Take of cold soft water, 2 gal'ons, apples, well 
bruised, 3 bushels, honey, 10 lbs., white tartar, 2 
ounces, 1 nutmeg, in powder, rum, 3 quarts, Tliis 
will make 18 gallons. 

To make apple -wine. 

To every gallon of apple juice, immediately as it 
comes from the press, add 2 ibs. of common lor.f 
sugar; boil it as long as any scum rises, then strain 
it through a sieve, and let it cool; add some good 
yeast, and stir it well; let it work in tiie tub for 
two or three weeks, or till the head begins to flat- 
ten, then skim oft' tlie head, draw it clear off, and 
tun it. When made a year, rack it off, and fine it 
with isinglass; then add 5 a pint of the best recti- 
fied spirit of wine, or a pint of French brandy, to 
every 8 gallons. 

Apple red -wine. 

Take of cold soft water, 3 gallons, apples, 
well bruised, 3 bushels. Ferment. Mix, raw 
sugar, 15 lbs., beet I'oot, sliced, 4 lbs., red tartar, 
in fine powder, 3 oz. then add ginger, in powder, 



3 oz. rosemary and lavender leaves, of each two 
handsful, British spirits, 2 quarts. This will 
make 18 gallons. 

To inake quince ivine. 
Gather the quinces when pretty ripe, in a dry 
da/jTub off the down with a linen cloth, then lay 
them in liay or straw for te 1 days, to perspire. 
Now cut them, in quarters, take out the cores, and 
bruioe them well in a mashing tub with a wooden 
pestle. Squeeze out the liquid part, by pressing 
them in a hair bag, by degrees, in a cider press; 
strain this liquor through a fine sieve, then warm it 
gently over a fire, and skim it, but do not suffer it 
to boil. Now sprinkle into it some loaf-sugar re- 
duced to' powder; then in a gallon of water and a 
quart of white wine, boil 12 or 14 large quinces 
thinly sliced; add 2 lbs. of fine sugar and then 
strain off the liquid part, and mingle it with the na- 
tural juice of the quinces; put this into a cask (not 
to fill it) and mix them well together; then let it 
stand to settle; put in 2 or 3 whites of eggs, then 
draw it off". If it be not sweet enough, add more 
sugar, and a quart of the best Malmsey. To make 
it still better boil a ^ lb. of stoned raisins, and ^ an 
oz. of cinnamon bark in a quart of the liquor, to 
the consumption of a third part, and straining it, 
put it into the cask when the wine is fermenting. 

Another. — Take 20 large quinces, gathered when 
they are dry and full ripe. Wipe them clean with 
a coarse cloth, and grate them with a large grater or 
rasp as near the cores as possible; but do not touch 
the cores. Boil a gallon of spring-water, throw in 
the quinces, and let them boil softly about a ^ of 
an hour. Then strain them well into an eartlien 
pan, on 2 lbs. of double refined sugar. Pare the 
peel of 2 large lemons, throw them in, and squeeze 
the juice through a sieve. Stir it abo'it till it be 
very cool, and tlien toast a thin bit ot bread very 
brown, rub a little yeast on it, and let the whole 
stand close covered 24 hours. Then take out the 
toast and lemon, put the wine in a cask, keep it 
three months, and then bottle it. If a 20 gallon 
cask is wanted, let it stand six months before bot- 
tling it; and remember, when straining the quinces, 
to wi'ing them hard in a coarse cloth. 
Orange ivine. 

Put 12 lbs. of powdered sugar, with the whites 
of 8 or 10 eggs uell beaten, into 6 gallons of spring 
water; boil them -f of an hour; when cold, put into 
it 6 spoonsful of yeast and the juice of 12 lemons, 
which being pared, must stand with 2 lbs. of white 
sugar in a tankard, and in the morning skim off the 
top, and then put ?t into the water; add the juice 
and rinds of 50 oranges, but not the white or pithy 
parts of the rinds; let it work all together 2 days 
and 2 nights; then add two quarts of llhenish or 
white wine, and put it into the vessel. 

Another.— To 6 gallons of water put 15 lbs. of 
soft sugar; before it boils, add the whites of six 
eggs well beaten, and take oft' the scum as it rises; 
boil it ^ an hour: when cool, add the juice of 50 
oranges, and two-thirds of the peels cut very thin; 
and immerse a toast covered with yeast. In a 
month after it has been in the cask, add a pint of 
brandy and 2 quarts of Rhenish wine: it will be fit 
to bottle in 3 or 4 months, but it should remain in 
bottle for 12 months before it is drank. 

I'o make orange and lemon ivine. 

Orange wine of a superior quality may be made 
with 2 lbs. of clayed sugar, and 1 lb. of Malaga 
raisins to each gallon of water, to which add the 
juice and peel of an orange, and to every 100 gal- 
lons of fluid 4 lbs. of Rhenish tartar. 

Two lbs. of honey, 1 lb. of Malaga raisins, witb 
the juice and peel of a large orange, to every gal- 
lon of water, and 4 lbs. of Rhenish tartar to every 



WINES. 



129 



100 gallons fluid, will make an orange wine still 
superior to tlie former. Steep and press the fruit, 
and expend the tw tar in setting, raising, and cut- 
ting the baclis: the orange peel and juice are not 
to De added until the last stage of fermentation, 
that is on cutting: tliey will possess infinitely more 
vinosity than the ordinary orange wines, indeed, 
nearly as much as tlie juice of the vine. 

Lemon wine, equally delicious, may be made in 
a similar manner: both these wines, as they ad- 
vance in age, lose much of the grosser part of the 
orange and lemon flavour; one approaclies the ber- 
gamot and the other a iine citron, and become fra- 
grant as they advance in years: they will be more 
improved if treacle be used, divested of its colour 
and burnt flavour. 

To make parsnip lidtie. 

To 12 pounds of parsnips, cut in slices, add 4 
gallons of Mater; boil them till they become quite 
soft. Squeeze the liquor well out of tliem, run it 
through a sieve, and add to ever}' gallon 3 pounds 
of loat sugar. Boil the whole thi-ee quarters of an 
hour, and when it is nearly cold, add a little yeast. 
Let it stand for ten days in a tub, stirring it every 
day from the bottom, then put it into a cask for 
twelve months: as it works over, fiii it up every 
day. 

White mead ivine. 

Take of cold soft water, seventeen gallons, white 
currants, six quai'ts. Ferment. Mix honey, 30 
pounds, white tartar, in fine powder, 3 oz. Add 
balm and sweetbriar, each 2 handsful, white bran- 
dy, 1 gallon. This will make IS gallons. 
Hed mead or methegiin tvine. 

Take of cold soft water, 17 gallons, red currants, 
6 quarts, black currants, 2 quarts. Ferment. Mix, 
honey, 25 pounds, beet root, sliced, 1 pound, red 
tartar, in fine powder, 4 oz. Add cinnamon, in 
powder, 2 oz. brandy, 1 gallon. This will make 
18 gallons. 

Another. — Fermented mead is made in the pro- 
portion of I pound of honey to 3 pints of water; or 
by boiling over a moderate fire, to two-thirds of 
the quantity, three parts water and one part honey. 
The liquor is then skimmed and casked, care be- 
ing taken to keep the cask fall while fermenting. 
During the fermenting process, tlie cask is left un- 
stopped and exposed to the sun, or in a warm 
room, until the working cease. The cask is then 
•bunged, and a few months in the cellar renders it 
fit for use. Mead is rendered more vinous and 
pleasant, by the addition of cut raisins, or other 
fruits, boiled after the rate of half a pound of rai- 
sins to six pounds of honey, with a toasted crust of 
bread, an ounce of salt of tartar in a glass of bran- 
dy, being a<lded to the liquor when casked; to 
whicii some add five or six drops of the essence of 
cinnamon; others, pieces of lemon peel with vari- 
ous syrups. 

Walnut mead -wine. 

To every gallon of water put three pounds and a 
half of honey, and boil them together three quar- 
ters of an hour. Then to every gallon of liquor put 
about two dozen of walnut leaves, pour the boiling 
liquor upon them, and let them stand all night. 
Then take out tlie leaves, put in a spoonful of 
yeast, and let it work for two or three days. Then 
make it up, and after it has stood for three months, 
bottle it. 

To make American honey -wine. 

Put a quantity of the comb, from which honey 
has been drained, in a tub, and add a barrel of ci- 
der, immediately from the press; tins mixture stir, 
and leave for one night. It is then strained before 
*(2rmentation; and honey added, until the specific 
gravity of the liquor is sufficient to bear an egg. It 
IS then put into a barrel; and after the fermentation 



is commenced, the cask is filled every diy, for 
three or lour days, that the froth may work out of 
the bung-hole. When the fermentation mode/ates, 
put the bung in loosely, lest stopping it tiglit might 
cause the cask to burst. At the end of live or six 
weeks, the liquor is to be drawn off into a tu}), and 
the whites of eight eggs, well beaten u]), with a 
pint of clean sand, are to he put into it: then add a 
gallon of cider spirit; and after mixing the whole 
together, j-eturn it into the cask, which is to be 
well clea#;d, bunged tight, and placed in a proper 
situation vfiv racking off, when fine. In the month 
of April following, draw it oft' into kegs, for use; 
and it will be equal to almost any foi'eign wine. 
Cowslip red tvine. 

Take of cold soft water, 18 gallons, Smyrna rai- 
sins, 40 lbs. Ferment. Mix beet-root, sliced, 3 
pounds, red tartar, in fine powder, 2 oz. Add 
cowslip-flowers, 14 lbs. cloves and mace, in pow- 
der, 1 oz. Brandy, 1 gallon. This will make IS 
gallons. 

Coivslip -white wine. 

Take of cold soft water, 18 gallons, Malaga rai- 
sins, 35 lbs. white tartar, in fine powder, 2 oz. 
Ferment. Mix cowslip-flowers, 16 lbs. Add 
white brandy, 1 gallon. This will make 18 gal- 
lons. 

Cowslip mead 

Is made in this manner: to 15 gallons of water 
put 30 pcnnds of honey, and boil it till 1 gallon be 
wasted. Skim it, take it oft' the fire, and have rea- 
dy 16 lemons cut in halves. Take a gallon of the 
liquor, and put it to the lemons. Put the rest of the 
liquor into a tub, with 7 pecks of cowslips, and let 
them stand all night. Then put in the liquor with 
the lemons, 8 spoonsful of new yeast, and a hand- 
ful of sweetbriar. Stir them all well together, and 
let it work three or four days. Then strain it, put 
it into the cask, and after it has stood six months, 
bottle it off". 

Cider white wine. 

Take of cold soft water, 2 quarts, cider, 9 gal- 
lons, honey, 8 pounds, white tartar, in fine powder, 
2 oz. Ferment. Mix cinnanion, cloves, and 
mace, 2 oz. Add rum, ^ gallon. This will make 
9 gallons. 

Cider red wine. 

Take of cold soft water, 3 gallons, cider, 16 gal- 
lons, honey, 10 pounds. Ferment. Add raw sugar, 
4 pounds, beet-i'oot, sliced, 4 pounds, red tartar, in 
fine powder, 6 oz. Mix sweet marjoram and 
sweetbriar, ,S handsful, rum. 1 gallon. This will 
make 18 gallons. 

Cider wine. 

Take of cold soft water, 4 gallons, cidei, 15 gal- 
lons, honey, 12 pounds, tartar, in fine powder, 2 
ounces. Ferment. Mix ginger, in powder, 6 
ounces, sage and mint, 2 handsful. Add British 
spirits, one gallon. This will make eighteen gal- 
lons. 

Grape red wine. 

Take of cold soft water, 5 gallons, black or red 
grapes, 40 pounds. Ferment. Mix cider, 9 gal- 
lons, raw sugar, 20 pounds, barberry leaves, 3 
handsful, beet-root sliced, 2 pounds, red tartar, in 
powder, 4 ounces. Add white elder flowers, 6 
handsful, or sassafras chips, 4 pounds, brandy, 1 
gallon. This will make 18 gallons. 

Another. — Take of cold soft water 6 gallons, 
grapes, of any colour, 30 pounds. Ferment. Mix 
treacle, 10 pounds, beet-root sliced, 1^ pounds, 
red tartar, in powder, 2 ounces. Add rosemary 
leaves, 2 handsful, brandy, ^ a gallon. This will 
make 9 gallons. 

Ariotlier. — Take of cold soft water, 8 gallons, 
grapes, of any sort, 100 poimds.. Ferment. Mix 
raw sugar, 20 pounds, beei-root sliced, 4 pounds. 



130 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



oarberry leaves, 4 handsful, red tartar, in powder, 
6 ounces. Add coriander seed, bruised, bounces, 
brandy, 6 quarts. This will make 18 gallons. 
Grape -white "Mine. 
Take of cold soft water, 13 gallons, white grapes, 
50 pounds. Ferment. Mix refined sugar, 25 
pounds, white tartar, in powder, 3 ounces. Add 
clary seed bruised, 3 ounces, or clary flowers, C 
handsful, rum, 1 gallon. This will make 18 
gallons. 

7'o make raisin -wine equal to sherry. 

Let the raisins be well washed and picked from 
the stalks; to every pound thus prepared and chop- 
ped, add 1 quait of water whicli has been boiled 
and has stood till it is cold. Let the whole stand 
in the vessel for a month, being frequently stirred. 
Now let the raisins be taken from the cask, and let 
the liquor be closely stopped in the vessel. In the 
course of a month, let it be racked into another 
vessel, leaving all the sediment behind, which 
must be repealed till it becomes fine, when add to 
every ten gallons six pounds of fine sugar, and one 
dozen of Seville oranges, the rinds being pared 
very thin, and infused in two quarts of brandy, 
which should be added to the liquor at its last 
racking. Let the vhole stanil three months in the 
cask, when it will be fit for bottling; it should re- 
main in the bottle for a twelve-month. 

To give it the flavour of Madeira, when it is in 
the cask, put in a couple of green citrons, and let 
them remain till the wine is bottled. 

Another raidn xuine. — Put two hundred weight 
of raisins, with the stalks, into a hogshead, and fill 
it almost with spring water; let them steep for 
about twelve days, frequently stirring, and after 
pouring off the juice, dress the raisins and mash 
them. The whole should then be put togetlier into 
a very clean vessel that will exactly contain it. It 
will hiss for some time, during which it should not 
be stirred; but wiien the noise ceases, it must be 
stopped close, and stand for about six or seven 
months: and then, if it proves fine and clear, rack 
it oft' into another vessel of the same size. Stop 
it up, and let it remain for twelve or fourteen weeks 
longer, then bottle it oft". If it should not prove 
clear, fine it down with three ounces of isinglass, 
and a quarter of a ))ound of sugar-cand}', dissolved 
in some of the wine. 

Another grape ivine. — To every gallon of ripe 
grapes put a gallon of soft water, bruise the grapes, 
let them stand a week without stirring, and draw 
the liquor off'fine; to every gallon of wine put three 
pounds of lump sugar; put the whole into a vessel, 
but do not stop it till it has done hissing, then 
stop it close, and in six months it will be fit for 
bottling. 

A better wine, though smaller in quantity, will 
be made by leaving out the water, and diminish- 
ing the quantity of sugar. Water is necessai-j-, 
only where tlie juice is so scanty, or so thick, as 
in cowslip, balm, or black currant wine, that it 
eould not be used without it. 

Claret vine-leaf vfine. 

Take of cold soft water, 18 gallons, claret vine- 
le;iv;-s, 3 pecks. I'erment. Mix raw sugar, 50 
pounds, barberrie", 6 quarts, red tartar, in fine 
powder, 8 ounces. Add roses, 6 or 8 handsful, 
sassafras chips, 3 pounds. Brandy, one gallon or 
more. 

Mr Carnell directs to macerate the vine-leaves 
in the water 3 days, and then proceed with the ge- 
neral process. This will make 18 gallons. 

Another. — Take of cold soft water, 11 gallons, 
claret vine leaves, 2 pecks. Ferment. Add cider, 
9 gallons, raw sugar, 30 pounds, red tartar, in pow- 
der, 6 ounces. Mix cinnamon, in powder, 2 oz. 
2 nutmegs in powder, brandy, 1 gallon. This 
will make 1 8 gallons, 



To 7nake ivine from frosted potatoes . 

Wine of considerable quality may be made from 
frosted potatoes, if not so much frosted as to have 
become soft and waterish. The potatoes must be 
crushed or bruised; a wooden mallet answers the 
purpose. If a phnk of wood is made hollow, in 
the manner of a shallow bowl, they may be bruised 
with a mallet, or put into a cider press. A Win- 
chester bushel must have 10 gallons of water, 
prepared by boiling it mixed with ^ lb. of hops 
and ^ lb. of common white ginger. This water, 
after having boiled for about half an hour, must be 
poured upon the bruised ^JOtatoes, into a tub or 
vessel suited to the quantity to be made. After 
standing in this mixed state for three days, yeast 
must be added, to ferment the liquor. When the 
fermentation has subsided, the liquor must be 
drawn off, as pure as possible, into a cask, adding 
half a pound of raw sugar for every gallon. After 
it has remained in the cask for three months, it will 
be ready for use. Farmei^'s Mag. 
Ginger -wine, excellent. 

Put into a very nice boiler ten gallons of water, 
fifteen poimds of lump sugar, with the whites of six 
or eight eggs, well beaten and strainefl; mix all 
well while crld; when the liquor boils skim it well, 
j)ut in half a pound of common white ginger, bruis- 
ed, and boil it twenty minutes. Have ready the 
rinds (cut very thin) of seven lemons, and pour 
the hot liquor on them; when cool put it into your 
cask, with two spoonsful of yeast; i)ut a quai't of 
the warm liquor to two ounces of isinglass shav- 
ings, tvhisk it well three or four times, and put all 
into the barrel. Next day stop it up, in three 
weeks bottle it, and in three months it will be a 
delicious and safe liquor. 

Another. — Take of cold soft water, 19 gallons; 
Malaga raisins, 50 lbs.; white tartai", in powder, 
4 oz. Ferment. Mix ginger, in powder or bruised, 
20 oz.; 18 lemons, peel and juice. Add brandy. 2 
quarts, or more. 'I'his will make 18 gallons. 

Another. — Take HO quarts of water; 5 lbs. of 
sugar; 3 oz. of white ginger; 1 oz. of stick liquorice. 
Boil them well together; when it is cold put a lit- 
tle new yeast upon it, but not too much; then put 
it into the barrel for 10 days, and after that bottle 
it putting a lump of wliite sugar into every bottle. 

Another. — To seven gallons of water put 19 
poiuids of claj ed sugar, and boil it for half an hour,, 
taking oif the scum as it rises; then take a small 
quantity of the liquor, and add to it 9 ounces of the 
best ginger bruised. Now put it all together, and 
when nearly cold, chop 9 pounds of raisins veiy 
small, and put them into a nine gallon cask (beer 
measure,) with one ounce of isinglass. Slice 4 le- 
mons into the cask, taking out all the seeds, and 
pour the liquor over them, with half a pint of fresh 
yeast. Leave it unstopped for three weeks, and in 
about three mouths it v/iU be fit for botllin;;-. 

There will be one gallon of the sugar and water 
more than the cask will hold at first: this must be 
kept to fill u]), as the liquor works oft", as it i* ne- 
cessary that tiie cask should be kept full, till it has 
done working. The raisins should be 2-3ds Mala- 
ga, and l-3d M'uscadel. Spring and autumn are 
llie best seasons for making this wine. 

7'o make koumiss, a Tartar -wine. 

Take of fresh mare's r:;ilk any quantity; add to 
it a sixth part of water, and pour the mixture into 
a wooden vessel. Use as a ferment an eighth part 
of skimmed milk; but at any future preparation a 
small portion of old koumiss will answer better. 
Cover the vessel with a thick cloth, and set it in a 
place of moderate warmth; leaving it at rest for 
twenty-four hours: at the end of which time the 
milk will become sour, and a thick substance will 
be gathered on its top. Now, with a churn staft", 
he^t it till the thick sohstaDce above-mentioned he 



WINES. 



131 



blended intimately wrth the subjacent fluid. In 
this situation, leave it at rest for twenty-four hours 
more; after which, pour it into a higher and nar- 
rower vessel, resemhlinij a churn, where the agi- 
tation must be repeated as before, till the liquor 
appears to be perfectly homogeneous. In this state 
it is called koumiss; of which the taste ought to 
have been a pleasant mixture of sweet and sour. 
Agitation must be employed every time before it 
is used. This -wine is cooling and antiseptic. 
Sometimes aromatic herbs, as Angelica, are infused 
in the liquor during fermentation. 

To make rhubarb ivine. 
Take of sliced rhubarb, 2^ oz. — lesser cardamom 
seeds, bruised and husked,^ oz.; saifron 2 drachms; 
Spanish white wine, 2 pints; proof spirit, ^ pint. 
Digest for ten days, and strain. This is a warm, 
cordial, laxative medicine. It is used chiefly in 
weakness of the stomach and bowels, and some 
kinds of loosenesses, for evacuating the oftending 
matter and streiigtiiening the tone of the viscera. 
It may be given !n doses of from half a spoonful to 
three jr four spoonsful or moi-e, according to the 
circumstances of the disorder, and the strength of 
the \ atient. 

To make sageivine. 
B jil 26 quarts of spring water a quarter of an 
hour, and when it is blood warm, put 25 pounds 
of'^Ialaga raisins, ])icked, rubbed, and shred, into 
it, witli almost half a bushel of red sage shred, and 
a porringer of ale yeast; stir all well together, and 
let it stand in a tub, covered warm, six or seven 
days, stirring it once a day; then strain it oft", and 
put it in a rimlet. Let it work three or four days, 
and then stop it up; when it has stood six or seven 
days, put in a quart or two of Malaga sack; and 
■H'lien it is fine bottle it. 

To make giUifloivev -wine. 
To three gallons of water put 6 pounds of the 
jest powder sugar, boil the sugar and water toge- 
.her for tlie space of iialf an hour, keep skimming 
t as the scum rises; let it stand to cool, beat up 
three ounces of syrup of betony with a large spoon- 
•ul of ale yeast, put it into the liquor, and brew it 
ivell together; then having a peck of gilliflowers, 
tut from the stalks, put them into the liquor, let 
hem infuse and work togetlier three days, covered 
vith a cloth; strain it, and put it into a cask, and 
tt it settle for three or four weeks; then bottle it. 
To make twmip -wine. 
Pare and slice a number of turnips, put Ihem 
<nto a cider press,and press out all the juice. To 
■veri' gallon of the juice, add three pounds of lump 
■ugar; have a vessel ready large enough to hold the 
juice, and put half a pint of brandy to every gallon. 
(*ourin thejuiceandlay something overthe bungfor 
A week, to see if it works; if it does, do not bung it 
down till it has done working; then stop it close 
for three montlis, and draw it oif into another ves- 
sel. When it is fine, bottle it off. 

Tlnis is an excellent wine for gouty habits, and 
is much i-ecoramended in such cases in lieu of any 
other wine. 

Rose tvine. 
Take a well glazed earthen vessel, and put into 
it 3 gallons of rose-water drawn with a cold still. 
Pot into that a sufficient quantity of rose leaves, 
cover it close, and set it for an hour in a kettle or 
copper of hot water, to take out the whole strength , 
and tinctm'e of the roses; and when it is cold, press \ 
the rose leaves hard into the liquor, and steep fresh 
ones in it, repeating it till the liquor has got the 
full strength of the roses. To every gallon of li- 
quor put threepoundsof loaf sugar, and stir it well, 
that it may melt and disperse in every part. Then 
put it into a cask, or other convenient vessel, to 
ferment, and put into it a piece of bread toasted 



hard, and covered with yeast. Let it stand about 
thirty days, when it will be ripe and have a fine 
flavour, having the whole strength and scent of tlie 
roses in it; anil it may be greatly improved by ad- 
ding to it wine and spices. By "this method of in- 
fusion, wine of carnations, clove gilliflowers, vio- 
lets, primroses, or any other flower, having a cu- 
rious scent, may be made. 

Jiarley Tvine. 
Boil half a ])0und of fresh barley in 3 waters, 
and save 3 pints of the last water. Mix it with a 
quart of white wine, half a pint of borage water, 
as much clary water, a little red rose-water, the 
juice of 5 or 6 lemons, 3 quarters of a pound of 
fine sugar, and the thin yellow rind of a lemon. 
Mix all these well together, run it through a strain- 
er, and bottle it. It is pleasant in hot we:ither, and 
very good in fevers. 

English fig -uine. 
Take the large blue figs, when pretty ripe, and 
steep them in white wine, having made some slits 
in them, that they may swell and gather in tlie sub- 
stance of the wine. Then slice some other figs, 
and let them simm'>r over afire in water u'ttil they 
are reduced to a kind of pulp. Tiien strain out the 
water, pressing die pulp hard, and pour it as hot 
as possible on the figs that are imbrewed in the 
wine. Let the quantities be nearly equal, but the 
water somewhat more than the wine and figs. Let 
them stand 24 liours, masli them well togetlier, 
and draw off what will run without squeezing. 
Then press the rest, and if not sweet enough, ackl 
a sufficient quantity of sugar, to make it so. Let it 
ferment, and add to it a little honey and sugar- 
candy; then fine it with whites of eggs and a little 
isinglass, and draw it oft" for use. 
Si'camnre -wine. 
Boil 2 gallons of the sap half an hour, and thei> 
add 1,0 it 4 pounds of fine pov.'dered sugar. Beat 
the whites of 3 eggs to froth, and mix them with 
the liquor; but take care that it is not too hot, as 
that will poach the eggs. Skim it v.'ell, and boil 
it half an hour. Then strain it through a hair sieve, 
and let it stand till next day. Then pour it clean 
from the sediment, put half a pint of yeast to every 
twelve gallons, and cover it close up with blankets. 
Then put it into the baiTel, and leave the bung- 
hole open till it has done working. Then close it 
up well, and after it has stood 2 months, bottle it. 
The fifth part of the sugar must l)e loaf; and if 
raisins are liked, they will be a great addition tc 
the wine. 

JJalm luine. 
Take 40 pounds of sugar and 9 gallons of water, 
boil it gently for 2 hours, skim it well, and put i: 
into a tub to cool. Take 2 pounds and a half of 
the tops of balm, bruise tiiem, and put tliem into a 
barrel, with a little new yeast; and when the liquor 
is cold, pour it on the balm. Stir it well together, 
and let it stand 24 hours, stirring it often. Then, 
close it up, and let it stand 6 weeks. Then rack 
it off" and put a lump of sugar into every bottle. 
Cork it well, and it will be better the second year 
than the first. 

To make scurvy-grass -uiine. 
Scurvy-grass, or spoonwort, is a very sovereign' 
medicinal herb, appropriated chiefly to the health 
of invali<ls. 

Take the best large scurvy-grass tops and leaves. 
in May, June, or July, bruise them well in a stone 
mortar, then put them in a well glazed eardieo 
vessel, and sprinkle them over with some powder 
of crystal of tartar, then smear them with virgin 
honey, and being covered close, let it stiind 24 
hours; then set water over a gentle fire, putting to 
every gallon 3 pints of honey, and when the scum 
rises, lake it off", and let it cool; then put tlic 



132 



UNRTiRSAL. RECEIPT BOOK. 



stamped scurvy grass into a barrel, and ponr the 
liquor to it, setting the vessel convenient!)' end- 
ways, with a tap at the bottom. When it has been 
infuseu 24 hours, draw off the liquor, strongly press 
the juice and moisture out of the herb into the bar- 
rel or vessel, and put tlie liquor up ugain; then put 
a Utile new )'«ast to it, and sufter it to ferment 3 
days, covering the place of the bung or vent with 
a piece of bread spread over with mustard seed, 
downward, in a cool pl'oe, and let it continue till 
it is fine and drinks brisk; then draw off the finest 
part, leaving only ihe dregs behind: afterwards add 
more herbs, and ferment it with whites of eggs, 
flour, and fixed nitre, vei juice, or the juice of green 
grapes, if they are to be had ; to which add 6 pounds 
of the syrup of mustard, all mixed and well beaten 
together, to refine it down, and it will drink brisk, 
but is not very pleasant; being here inserted among 
artificial wines rather for the sake of health, than 
for the deligbtfulness of its taste. 

To make clieap and xahnlesome claret. 

Take a quart of fine draft Devonshire cider, 
and an equal quantity of good port. Mix tliera, 
and shake them. Bottle them, and let thera stand 
for a month. The best judge will not be able to 
distinguish them from good Bordeaux. 
To make dry -Mine. 

Those who like a dry wine, should put into the 
vat, at the commencement of the vinous fermenta- 
tion, an ounce or two of calcined gypsum, in fine 
powder. 

MANAGEMENT OF BRITISH WINES. 

To g^iard against unripe fruit. 

If the season proves had so that some fruits are 
not sufficiently ripe, immediately after the vinous 
fermentation, and the must of such fruit is put into 
the cask, it is to be rolled two or three times a 
day, for a week or two. A spirituous fermentation 
will soon commence, the bung of the cask must 
then be taken out, and the hole covered with a bit 
of light wood or canvass, and as any scum arises, 
it should be taken away. When the scum disap- 
pears, fill up the cask, and bung it up. But a vent- 
nole must be left open for a week. 

To keep and manage -wines. 

Wines will diminish, therefore the cask must be 
kept filled up with some of the same wine, or some 
other that is as good or better. 

They must at all times be kept in a cool cellar, 
if not, they will ferment. If wines are kept in a 
warm cellar, an acetous fermentation will soon 
commence, and the result consequently will be vi- 
negar. Th;e more a wine frets and ferments, the 
more it parts wirn its strength and goodness: when 
wiaes are found to work improperly in the cellar, 
the vent-peg must be taken out for a week or tv/o. 

If any wine ferments, after being perfected, draw 
off a quart and boil it, and pour it hot into the cask, 
add a pint oraiuart of brandy, and bung up a day 
or two after. 

Or, draw off the wine, and fumigate the cask, 
with one ounce of flower of brimstone, and half an 
ounce of cinnamon, in powder. Mix the two to- 
gether, and tie them up in a rag. Turn the bung- 
hole of the cask downwards, place the rag und^r 
the bung-hole, and set fire to it, so that the gas 
ascends into the cask. As soon as it is burnt out, 
fill up the cask with wine, and bung it up tight. 
To sweeten afoid cask. 

Set fire to a pound or more of broken charcoal, 
put it into tlie cask and immediately fill up the 
cask with boiling water. After this, rol the cask 
once or twice a day for a week; then pour out the 
charcoal ar.il water, wash out the cask with clean 
cold water, and expose it to the external air for 
some days. 



To improve poor toines. 

Poor wines may be improved by being racked 
off, and returned into the cask again; and then put- 
ting into the wine about a pounil of jar or box rai- 
sins, bruised, and a quart of brandy. 

Or, put to the wine two pounds of honey, and a 
pint or two of brandy. The honey and brandy to 
be first mixed together. 

Or, draw off three or four quarts of such wine 
and fill the cask up with strong wine. 

To improve tvine when loivering or decaying. 

Take one ounce of roche-alum, make it into 
powder; then draw out four gallons of wine, mix 
the powder with it, and beat it well for half an 
hour; then fill up the cask, and when fine (which 
will be in a week's time or little more), bottle it 
off. This will make it drink fine and brisk. 
To restore fiat wines. 

Flat wines may be restored by one povmd of 
jar raisins, one pound of honey, and hau a pint of 
spirit of wine, beaten up in a mortar with some of 
the wine, and then the contents p'H into the cask. 
To remove a musty or disagreeable taste in wine. 

Put into the cask tliree or four sticks of charcoal, 
and bung up the cask tight. In a month after take 
tiiem out. — Or, cut two ripe medlars, put them in 
a gauze bag, and suspend them from the bung hole 
into the w.ne, and bung up the cask air-tight. A 
month after take thera out, and bung up the cask 
again. Or, mix half a pound of bruised mustard- 
seed, with a pint or more of brandy, and stir it up 
in the wine; and two days after bung up the cask. 

Another mode. — AttVie finish of the process, wheii 
the brandj' or spirit is put to the wine, it is par- 
ticularly recommended that a quarter of an ounce 
of crystal camphor, in the lump, be dropped into 
the bung-hole of each eighteen gallons of vine. 

Another mode. — Oil poured upon wine, or any- 
other liquor, will prevent it from growing musty, 
or turning corrupt. 

To take away the ill scent of wines. 

Bake a long roller of dough, ciack well with 
cloves, and hang it in the cask. 

To pass white wine off for char.ipagne. 

Rack it often from the lees; and when very bril 
liant, hott'e it off: this must be done between vin 
tage time and the month of May. 

It has (says Mr Carnel) been a most absurd prae • 
tice with many families to use green gooseberrie- 
in order to imitate champagne wine; but green fruit 
is, by no means, fit or proper for the making o{ 
any wine. Nor, indeed, is it at all necessary i^ 
making an imitation of champagne.- 

'J make wine sparkle like Champagne. 

Take great care to rack off the wine well, and h 
March bottle it as quick as possible. I'he bottle* 
must be very clean and dry, and the corks of tht 
best sort, made of velvet or white cork. In twt 
months after, the wine will be in a fine conditio*? 
to drink. 

To clear foul or ropy ivines. 

Take ^ ounce of chalk in powdei*, ^ an ounce ol 
burnt alum, the white of an egg, and one pint of 
spring water. 

Beat the whole up in a mortar, and pour it into 
the wine; after which, roll the cask ten minutes^ 
and then place it on the stand, leaving the bung 
out for a fevi' days. As soon as the wine is fine, 
rack it off. 

Or take one ounce of ground rice, ^ oz. of burnt 
alum, and ^ oz. of bay-salt. 

Beat the whole up in a mortar, with a pint or 
more of the wine, pour it into the cask, and roll it 
ten minutes. The cask must not be bunged up fo* 
a few days. As soon as such wine becomes fine 
rack it off. 

Or, bring the cask of wine out of the cellar, and 



WINES. 



133 



place it in a shady situation to receive the circula- 
tion of the air, and take out the bung. In three 
weeks or a month rack it off into a sweet cask, 
which fill up, and put into the wine an ounce of 
. cinnamon, in the stick; and bung it up tight. 

Another method. — Tap the cask, and ]mt a piece 
of coarse linen cloth upon that end of the cock 
■which goes to the inside of the cask; then rack it 
into a dry cask to 30 gallons of wine, and put in 
5 ounces of powdered alum. Roll and shake them 
well together, and it will fine down, and prove a 
verj'' clear and pleasant wine. 

To correct green or harsh wiws. 

Take 1 oz. ot salt, ^ oz. calcined gypsum, in 
powder, and 1 pint of skimmed milk. 

Mix those up with a little of the wine, and then 
pour the mixture into the cask: put in a few lav- 
ender leaves, stir the wine with a stick, so as not 
to disturb the lees, and bung it up. 

7 correct sharp, tart, acid -itdnes. 

Mix 1 oz. of calcined gypsum in powder and 2 
pounds of honey, in 1 quart of brandy; pour the 
mixture into the wine, and stir it so as not to dis- 
turb the lees; fill up the cask, and the following 
day bung it up: — rack this wine as soon as fine. 

Or, mix ^ oz. of the salt of tartar, ^ oz. of cal- 
cined gypsum, in powder, with a pint nf the wine; 
pour it into the cask, and put an ounce of cinnamon 
in the stick; stir the wine without disturbing the 
lees, fill up the cask, and the day following bung 
it up. 

Or, boil 3 oz. of rice, when cold put it into a 
gauze-bag, and immerge it into the wine; put into 
the wine also a few sticks of cinnamon, and bung 
up the cask. In s bout a month after, take the rice 
out. 

To restore sour -wines. 

Take calcined gypsum, in powder, 1 oz., cream 
of tartar, in powder, 2 oz. 

Mix tiiem in a pint or more of brandy; pour it 
into tlie cask; put in, also, a few sticks of cinna- 
mon, and then stir the wine without disturbing the 
lees. Bung up the cask the next day. 

Another method. — »Boil a gallon of wine, with 
some beaten oyster-shells and crab's claws, burnt 
into powder, an ounce of each to eveiy ten gallons 
of wine; then strain out the liquor through a sieve, 
and when cold, put it into wine of the same sort, 
and it will give it a pleasant lively taste. A lump 
of unslaked lime put into the cask will also keep 
wine from turning sour. 

To fine or clarify ttdnes. 

Boil a pint of skimmed milk; when cold, mix 
with it an ounce of chalk in fine powder, pour it 
into the cask, and roll it ten minutes. The fol- 
lowing day, bung up the wine, and rack it off" as 
soon as fine. 

Or, take 1 J oz. of gum arahie, in fine powder, 
and I oz. of chalk in powder. 

Mix those up with a pint more of wine, pour the 
mixture into the cask, roll it ten minutes, and then 
fill it up. Bung it up the next day, and rack off 
the wine as soon as fine. 

Or, take the yolk and white of an egg, ^ oz. of 
chalk, in powder, and ^ oz. of burnt alum, in pow- 
der. 

Beat those up in a mortar with a pint of spring 
water, an I ])our the mixture into tlie wine, roU the 
cask; then fill it up, and bung it up the next day. 
Rack oil the wine as soon as fine. 
To sweeten -wines. 

In 30 gallons of wine infuse a handful of the 
flowers of clary; then add a pound of mustard seed, 
dry groimd, put it into a bag and sink it to the 
bottom of the cask. 

To stop tlie fermentation of -wine. 

It is in the first place necessary to consider 



whether the existing sta'^^e of fermentation be the 
original or secondary s'^ge of that pi-ocess which 
comes on after the t'ocmer has ceased for several 
days, and is indeed the cornmenctnient of acetous 
fermentation. That of tlie former kind rarely pro- 
ceeds beyond what is necessary tor the perfect de- 
composition of the saccliarine and other parts of thfj 
vegetable substances necessary for tlie production 
of spirit, unless the liquor be kept too warm oris 
too weak, and left exposed to the air after the vi- 
nous fermentation is completed. The means to 
correct these circumstancesare sufficiently obvious. 
The heat for spirituous fermf^ntation should not be 
above 60 degrees Fahrenheit; when it is much 
above that point, the rnpior passes rapidly through 
the stage of vinous fermentation, and the acetous 
immediately commences. When too long continu- 
ed fermentation arises from the litjuor having been 
kept in a warm situation, it will be soon checked 
by bunging, after being removed into a cold place; 
the addition of a small proportion of spirits of wine 
or brandy, previously to closing it up, is also pro- 
per. A degree of cold, a[>proaching to the freez- 
ing point, will check fermentation of whatever kind. 
Fenneiitation of this kind cannot be stopped by 
any chemical agent, except such as would destroy 
the qualities of the liquor intended to be produced. 

The secondary stage of fermentation, or the com- 
mencement of the acetous, may be stopped b}' re- 
moving the liquor to a cool situation; correcting 
the acid already formed; and if tlie liquor contain 
but little spirit, the addition of a proper propor- 
tion of brandy is requisite. 

The operation of racking is also necessary to pre- 
serve liquor in a vinous state, and to render it clear. 
This process should be performed in a cool place. 
To restore piicked British luines. 

Rack the wines down to the lees into another 
cask, where the lees of good wines are fresh: then 
put a pint of strong aqua vitae, and scrape half i» 
pound of yellow bees'-wax into it, which by heat- 
ing the spirit over a gentle fire, will melt; after 
which dip a piece of cloth into it, and when a little 
dry, set it on fire with a brimstone match, put it 
into the bung-hole, and stop it u- close. 

Another method. — First prepare a fresh empty 
cask that has had the same kind of wine in it which 
is about to be racked, then match it, and rack off 
the wine, putting to every ten gallons two ounces 
of oyster powder, and halt an ounce of bay salt, 
then get the staff and stir it well about, letting it 
stand till it is fine, which will be in a few days; 
after which rack it off into another cask, (previous- 
ly matched) and if the lees of some wine of the 
same kind can be got, it will iuiprove it much. — 
Put likewise a quart of brandy to every ten gallons, 
and if the cask has been emptied a long lime, it 
will match better on that account; but if even a new 
cask, the matching must not be omitted. A fresh 
empty cask is to be preferred. 

This method will answer for all made wines. 



TO MANAGE FOREIGN W)XE VAULTS 

The principal object to be attended to in the ma- 
nagement of foreign wine vaults, is to keejj them 
of a temperate heat. Care must be taken, there- 
fore, to close up every aperture or opening, that 
there may be no admission given to llie external 
air. The floor of the vault should likewise be well 
covered with saw-dust which must not be suffered 
to get too dry and dusty, hut must receive now and 
then an addition of new, lest, when bottling or 
racking wine, some ot the old dust should fly into 
it. At most vaults, in the winter, it is necessary 
to have a stove or chafing-dish, to keep up a proper 
degree of warmth. In the summer tinie it will be 
best to keep them as cool as possible. 

M 



134 



UNTVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



To fd up a cellar of xvines and sfnrits. 
Provide a good roije ani tackling, to let down 
the casks into the vaults ot'^-ellar, and a slide, lad- 
der, or pulley for the casks to slide or roll on; a 
pair of strong slings; a pair of can hooks and a pair 
of crate hooks; a block of wood to put under the 
pipes when topping them over in a narrow passage, 
or in casing them; a small valinchto taste wines; a 
crane, and a small copper pump to rack off"; two or 
three gallon cans, made of wood; a large w.ooden 
funnel; two or three copper funnels from a quart to 
a gallon each; two racking cocks; two wine bot- 
tling cocks; a brace and various bits; two small 
tubs; a square basket to hold the corks; two small 
til funnels; a small strainer; two cork screws; two 
or three baskets; a whisk to beat the finings; three 
flannel or linen bags; a strong iron screw to raise 
the bungs; a pair of pliers; bungs, corks, and vent 
pegs^ two frets or middle sized gimlets; some sheet 
lead and tacks to put on broken staves; brown pa- 
per to put round cocks and under the lead, when 
stopping leaks; a staff with a chain at one end to 
rumage the wines. &c. ; shots and lead canister, or 
bristle brush, and two cloths to wash bottl,es; two 
Jarge tubs; some small racks that will hold six 
dozen each; a cfjoper's adze; an iron and a wooden 
driver to tighten hoops; two dozen of wooden 
bungs of different sizes; a thermometer, which is 
to be kept in the vault, a stove or chafingdish, to 
keep the heat of the vault to a known temperature; 
a few dozen of delph labels; a cupboard to hold all 
the tools; a spade, two good stiff birch brooms, and 
•A rake to level the saw-dust. 

Process of foreign luine making. 

When the grapes are ripe, and the saccharine 
principle is developed, they are then pressed, and 
the juice which flows out is received in vessels of a 
proper capacity, in which the fermentation a[)pears, 
and proceeds in the following manner. At the end 
of several days, and freqiently after a few hours, 
according to the heat of the atmosphere, the nature 
of the grapes, the quantity of the liquid, and the 
temperature of the place in which the operation is 
performed, a movement is produced in the liquor, 
which continimlly incietises; the volume of the fluid 
increases; it becomes turbid and oily; carbonic acid 
is discharged, which fills all the unoccupied part 
of the vessel, and the temperature rises to the 
72-5th degree. At the end of several days these 
tumultuous motions subside, the mass falls, the li- 
quor becomes clearer, and is found to be less sac- 
charine, more odorant, and of a red colour, from 
the i-e-action of the ardent spirit upon the colour- 
ing matter of the pellicle of the grape. 

The wine is usually taken out of the fermenting 
vessel at the period when all the phenomena of fer- 
mentation have subsided. When the mass is set- 
tled, the colour of the liquor is well developed; 
when it has become cleai-, and its heat has disap- 
peared, it is put into casks, where, by a second in- 
sensible fermentation, tlie wine is clarified, its 
principles combine more perfectly together, and 
its taste and smell be<inme more and more deve- 
loped. If th'S fermentation We stopped or suffo- 
cated, the gaseous principles are retamu>i, ui,,) the 
wine is brisker, and more of the nature of must. 
'1 b make port luine. 

The dark red port is made from grapes gathered 
indiscriminately, and thrown into a cistern, they 
are then trod, and their skins antl stalks leit in the 
mass, which separate during fermentation, and 
form a dry head over the li'iuid. When the fer- 
mentation is completed, the liquor underneath is 
drawn out, and casked. Before being brought to 
England it is mixed with one third of brandy to 
enable it to keep during the voj^age: otherwise the 



carriage bi'ings on the acetous fermentation, and 
the wine is converted into vinegar. 

French method of making -wines. 
In the southern parts of France, their way is 
with red wines to tread or squeeze the grapes be- 
tween the hands, and let the whole stand, juice and 
husks, till the tincture be to their liking; aftet 
which they press it. i:''or white wines, they press 
the grapes immediately, and when pressed, they 
tun the nmst and stop up the vessel, leaving only 
the dej th of a foot or more to give room for it to 
work. At the end of ten days they fill this space 
with some other good wine, that will not work it 
again. 

7'o rack foreign -wines. 

The vault or cellar should be of a temperate 
heat, and the casks sweet and clean. Should they 
have an acid or musty smell, i*^ may be remedied 
by burning brimstone matches in them: and if not 
clean, rinse Ihem well out with cold water, and 
after draining, rinse with a quart of brandy, putting 
the brandy afterwards into the ullage cask. Then 
strain the lees or bottoms through a flannel or linen 
bag. But put the bottoms of ])ort into the ullage 
cask without going through the filtering bag. la 
racking wine that is not on the stillage, a wine 
pump is desirable. 

To manage and improve poor red port. 

If wanting in body, colour, and flavour, draw out 
thirty or forty gallons, and return the same quan- 
tity of young and rich wines. To a can of which 
put thi'ee gills of colouring, with a bottle of wine 
or brandy. Then wliisk it well together, and pul 
it into the cask, stirrir.g it well. If not bright in 
about a week or ten days, fine it for use; previous 
to which put in at different times a gallon of good 
brandy. If the wine is short of body, put a gallon 
or two of brand)' in each pipe, by a quart or two at 
a time, as it feeds the wine better than putting it in 
all at once. But if tlie wines are in a bonded eel- > 
lar, i)rocm'e a funnel that will go to the bottom of 
the cask, that the brandy may be completely incor- 
porated with the wine. 

To manage claret, 
i Claret is not a wine of a strong body, though it 
re(inires to be of a good age before it is used, and 
therefore it should be well managed; the best me- 
thod is to feed it every two or three weeks with a 
pint or two of I-'rench brandy. Taste it frequently, 
to know what state it is in, and use the brandy ac- 
j cordingly, but never put much in at a time, while 
a little incorporates with the wine, and feeds and 
mellows it. 

If the claret is faint, rack it into a fresh-emptied 
hogshead, upon the lees of good claret; and bung it 
up, putting the bottom downwards for two or 
three days, that the lees may run through it. 
To colour claret. 

Ifthe colour be not yet perfect, rack it off again 
into a hogshead that lias been newly drawn oft', 
with the lees; then take a pound of turnsole, and 
put it into a gallon or two of wine; let it lie a day 
or two, and then put it into ihe vessel; after which 
lay the bung downwards for a night, and the next 
day roll it about. 

Or, take any quantity of damsons or black sloes, 
and strew them with some of the deepest coloured 
wine and as much sugar as will make k into a sy- 
rup. A pint of this will colour a hogslu-ad of cla- 
ret. It is also good for red port wines, and may 
be kept ready for use in glass bottles. 

To restore claret that drinks fnid. 

Rack it off from the dregs on some fresh lees of 
its own kind, and tlien take a dozen of new pippins, 
pare them, and take away the cores or hearts; then 
put them in the hogshead, and if that is not suffi- 



WINES. 



135 



elcr.t, tnke a handful of the oak of Jerasalem, and 

bruise it; then put it into the wine, and stir it well. 

To make claret and port rough. 

Put into a quart of claret or port two quarts of 
sloes; bake them in a o;cntle oven, or over a slow 
fire, Cill a good part of their moisture is stewed out, 
then pour off the liquor, and squeeze out the rest. 
A pint of this will be sufficient for 30 or 40 gallons. 
To recover pricked foreign -mnes. 

Take a botvle of red port that is pricked, add to 
it half an ounce of tartarized spirit of wine, shake 
the liquor well together, and set it by for a few 
days, and it will be found much altei-ed for llie bet- 
ter. If this operation he dexterously performed, 
pricked wines may be absolutely recovered by it, 
and remain saleable for some time; and tlie same 
method may be used to malt liquors just turned 
sour. 

To manage hermitage and Burgundy. 

lied hermitage must be managed in ti>e same 
wav as claret, and the white likewise, except the 
colouring, which it does not require. Burgundy 
should be managed in the same manner as red her- 
mitage. 

To manage Lisbon -wine. 

If the Lisbon is dry, take out of the pipe tlilrty- 
fixe or forty gallons,"and put in the same ((Uimtity 
of cakavellii, slir it well about, and this will make 
a pipe of good mild Lisbon: or, if it be desireJ to 
convert mild into dry, lake the same ([Uantity out 
as above mentioned before, and fill the pipe with 
Malaga Sherry, stirring it about as the other. The 
sanieViud of fining used for V'idonia will answer 
for J.,isbon wine; or it may be fined with tlie 
wlutes and shells nf sixteen eggs, and a small hand- 
ful of sail; beat it together to a froth, and mix it 
with a little of the wine: then pour it into the 
pipe, stir it about, and let it have vent for three 
davs; after which bung it up, and in a few days it 
will he tine. Lisbon, when bottled, should be 
packed either in saw-dust or leaths in a temperate 
place. 

To manage JBncella -zvine. 

In fining it, proceed in the same way as with the 
Madeira; only observe, tlr<it if not wanted very 
pale, keep the milk out of the finings. This ten- 
der wine should be fed with a little brandy, for if 
kept in a place that is either too hot or too cold, it 
will be in danger of turning foul. 

To improve Sherry. 

If the Sherry be new and hot, rack it off into a 
sweet cask, add five gallons of mellow Lisbon, 
which will take off the liot taste, then give it a head, 
take a quart of honey, mix it with a can of wine, 
and put it into the cask \\\\cn racking. Ey this 
method slieriy for present use will be greatly im- 
proved, having much the same effect upon it as 
age. 

To improve -uhite ivine. 

If the wine have an unpleasant taste, rack off one 
«alf, and to the remainder add a gallon of new 
milk, a handful of bay salt, and as much rice; after 
which, lake a staff, beat Itiem well together for 
half an hour, and fill up the cask, and when rolled 
well about, slillage it, and in a few days, it will be 
ranch ira proved. 

If the white wine is foul and has lost its coloiu-, 
for a butt or pipe take a gallon of new milk, put it 
into the cask, and stir it well about with a stafl'; 
aiul when it has settled, put in three ounces ..f is- 
inglass made into a jelly, w ith a cjuarter of a pound 
of loaf sugar scraped fine, and stir it well about. 
On the day following, bung it up, and in a few 
days it will be fine and have a good colour. 
To improve -vine by chalk. 

Add a little chalk to the mmt, w hen it is some- 
what sour; for the acidity arising from citric and 



tartaric acids, there is thus formed a precipitate of 
citrate and tartrate of lime, while the muat becomes 
sweeter, and yields a much finer wine. Too much 
chalk may render the wine insipid, since it is pro- 
per to leave a little excess of acid in the must. 
Concentrate the must by boiling, and add the pro- 
per quantity of chalk to the liqudr, while it is stil! 
hot. Even acid w ine may be benefited tjy the ad- 
dition of chalk. Oyster-shells may be used with 
this view; and when calcined are a cleaner carbo- 
nate of lime than common chalk. 

To renovate sick wine. 

Wines on tlie fret should be racked; if their own 
lee indicates decay they should be racked on the 
sound lee of another wine of similar but stronger 
quality, to protract their decline: if this be done 
at an early period, it may renovate the sick wine; 
on these occasions giving the sick wine a cooler 
place, will retard its progress to aoidity; if conve- 
nient, such wines should be torced and bottled. 
Previous to bottling, or rather at the forcing, give 
it one, two, or three table-spoonsful of calcined 
gypsum finely pulverized. This will check its 
tendency to acidity, without exciting much intu- 
mescence, without injuring the colour of the red 
wine, and without retarding its coating to the bot- 
tle, which it rather promotes. The projier forc- 
ing for red wines are, the whites of ten or twelve 
eggs, beat up with one or two tea-spoonsful of salt, 
per hogshead, and well worked into the wine with 
a forcing-red; the gypsum should be first boiled 
in a little water. This is intended to check the 
acetous process. To retard the vinous, the French 
are in the habit of burning sulphur imr.iediately 
under the cask, and possibly the sulphuric acid 
evolved by the combustion may check its progress 
and pt'event the necessity of an admixture. 
To mello-u! wine. 

Cover the orifices of ihe vessels containing it 
with bladder closely fastened instead of the usual 
niiiterials, and an aqueous exhalation will pass 
through the bladder, leaving some fine ciyslalliza- 
tions on the surface of the wine, which, when 
skimmed off, leaves the wine in a highly improved 
state of flavour. Remnants of wine coveted in this 
manner, whether in bottles or casks, will not tarn 
mouldy as when stopped in the usual wa)', but 
will be improved instead of being deteriorated. 
German method of restoring sour ■ivi7ies. 

Put a small quantity of powdered charcoal in the 
wine, shake it, and after it has remained still for 
48 hours decant steadily. 

To concentrate whies by cold. 

If any kind of wine be exposed to a suflicient 
degree of cold in frosty weather, or be jiut into 
any place where ice continues all the year, as 
in ice-houses, and there sufiered to freeze, the 
superfluous water contained in the wine will be 
frozen into ice, and will leave the proper and truly 
essential part of the wine unhvjzen, unless tlie de- 
gi-ee of cold should be very intense, or the wine but 
weak and poor. When ilie frost is moderate, the 
experiment has no difficulty, because not above a 
third or a fourth part of the sup(.'rilunus water 
will be frozen in a whole night; but if the cold 
be very intense, the best way is, at the end of a 
fnw hours, when a tolerable quantity of ice is 
formed, to pour out th.e remaining fluid liquor, 
and set it in another vessel to freeze again by itself. 

The fro«en part, or ice, consists only of the wa- 
tery part of the wine, and may be thrown away, 
an(i the liquid part retains all the strength, and is 
to ' e preserved. This will never grow sour, mus- 
ty, or mouldy, and may at any time be reduced to 
wine of the common strength, by adding to it as 
much water as will make it up to the former quan- 
tity. 



136 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



To fine white rmnes. 
Take an ounce of isinglass, beat it into thin 
shreds with a hammer, and dissolve it, by boiling in 
a pint of water; this, when cold, becomes a stiff 
jelly. Whisk up some of this jelly into a froth 
with a little of the wine intended to 'be fined, then 
stir it well among the rest in the cask, and bung it 
down tigitt; by this means the wine will become 
bright in eight or ten days. 

I'ofine red -wines. 
Take whites of eggs beat up to a froth, and mix 
in the same manner as in white wines. 

Jlnother method. — Put the shavings of green 
oeech into the vessel, having first taken oft' all the 
rind, and boil them for an hour in water to extract 
their rankness, and afterwards diy them in tlie 
sun, or in an oven. A bushel serves tor a tun of 
wine; and being mashed, they serve again and 
again. 

Mortimer recommends to gather the gi-apes 
when very dry, pick them from the stalks, press 
them, and let the juice stana twenty-fjur hours in 
a covered vat. Afterwards to draw it oft' from the 
gross lees, tlien put it up in a cask, and to add a 
pint or quart of strong red or white port to every 
gallon of juice, and let the whole work, bunging 
it up close, and letting it stand till January; then 
bottling it in dry weather. 

Bradley chooses to have the liquor, when press- 
ed, stand with the husks and stalks in the vat, to 
ferment for fifteen days. 

To fine a hogshead of claret. 
Take the whites and shells of six fresh eggs, and 
proceed as with port finings. Claret requires to be 
kept warm in saw-dust when bottled. 
To fine sherry. 
Take an ounce and a half of isinglass, beat it 
with a hammer till it can be pulled into small 
pieces, then put it into three pints of cider or per- 
ry, and let it remain twenty-four hours, till it be- 
comes a jelly. After which mix it with a quartor 
two of wine, and whisk it well Aviththe whiles and 
shells of six fresh eggs. Take four or five gallons 
out to make room for the finings, and stir the wine 
well. Then nearly fill the can of finings with wine, 
whisk it well, and put it in the butt, stirring it well 
for about five minutes; afterwards fill it up, and 
put the bung in loose. In two days bung it up, and 
in eight or ten it will be fit for bottling. 
To fine pale Sherry. 
Put three pints of skim-milk with the whites of 
eight eggs, beat well togetlier in a can; then put in 
finings, in the same manner as for common sherry. 
If the sherry be thin and poor, feed them witii good 
brandy as otiier wines. 

To fine jyiadeira. 
Take three ounces of isinglass, and dissolve it, 
but if old wine two ounces will be enough, also one 
quart of skim-milk, and half a pint of marble sand: 
■whisk these in a can with some wine. If the pipe 
is full, take out a canful, and stir the pipe well; 
then put in the can of finings, and stir that with a 
staff lor five minutes; after which put the other can 
of wine into it and let it have vent for three days. 
Then close it up, and in ten days or a fortnigiit it 
will be fine and fit for bottling and stowing with 
saw-dust in a warm place. 

To improve Madeira xvhich has been round to the 
Indies. 
Madeira should be kept in a warmer place than 
port wine, and therefore re([uires a good body, and 
to be fed with brandy, but if deficient in flavour or 
mellowness, add to it a gallon or two of goodM^.m- 
sey. 

To fine Vidonia tvine. 
When first imported, Vidonia has a harsh and 
acid taste; but if propeily managed it more resem- 



bles Madeira wine than any other. To take off 
the harshness, fine it down, and then rack it off 
upon the lees of Madeira or white port, fining it 
again with a light fining; and if 20 or 30 gallons oi 
good Madeira wine be added, it will pass'for Ma- 
deira. ¥qv the finings, dissolve 2 ounces of isin- 
glass and the whites and shells of 6 fresh eggs; beat 
them well up together with a whisk and add a gill 
of marble sand. 

To fine Malmsey and other luinex. 

Take 20 fresh eggs, beat the whites, yolks, and 
shells together, and manage it the same as other 
finings. — Calcavella, Sweet Mountain, Paxaretta, 
and Malaga, should be managed and fined in the 
same manner as Lisbon. — Tent, Muscadine, Sack, 
and Bastard, should be managed the same as 
Malmsey, and fined with 16 or 20 fresh eggs, and 
a quart or three pints of skim-milk. — Old Hoek, 
and Vin de Grave, are tiiin but pleasant wines, and 
should be fed with a little good brandy, and fined, 
if necessary, with the whites and shells of 6 or 8 
eggs. 

To fine port wijie. 

Take the whites and siiells of eight fresh eggs, 
beat them in a wooden can or pail, with a whisk, 
till it becomes a thick froth; then add a little wine 
to it, and whisk it again. If the pipe is full, take 
out four or five gallons of the wine to make room 
for the finings. If the weather be warmish, add a 
pint of fresh water sand to the finings. Stir it well 
about; after which put in tiie finings, stirring it for 
five minutes; put in the can of wine, leaving the 
bung out for a few hours, 'hat the froth may fall; 
then bung it up, and in eight or ten days it will be 
fine and fit for bottling. 

To make and apply firiings. 

Put the finings into a can or pail, with a little of 
the liquor about to be fined, whisk them all toge- 
tlier till tiiey are perfectly mixed, and then nearly 
fill the can with the liquor, whisking it well about 
again; after which, if the cask be full, take out four 
or five gallons to make room; then take the staff, 
and give it a good stirring; next whisk the finings 
up, and put them in; afterwards stir it with the 
st«ff for five minutes. Then drive the bung in, 
and bore a hole with a gimlet, that it may have 
vent for 3 or 4 days, after which drive in a vent- 

To convert lahite ivine into red. 

Put four ounces of turnsole rags into an earthen 
vessel, and pour uyion them a pint of boiling water; 
cover the vessel close, and leave it to ';ool; strain 
off" the liquor, which will be of a fine deep red in- 
clining to purple. A small portion of this colours 
a large quantitj^ of wine. This tincture may either 
be made in brandy, or rtiixed with it, or el-se made 
into a syrup, with sugar, for keeping. 

In those countries which do not produce the 
tinging grape which affords a blood-ied juice, 
wherewith the wines of France are often stained, 
in defect of this, the juice of elder-berries is used, 
and sometimes log-wood is used at Oporto. 
To force doxvn the finings of all ivhile -wines, ar- 
racks, and small spirits. 

Put a few quarts of skimmed milk into the cask. 
7 'o render red ivine white. 

If a few quarts of well-skimmed milk be put to a 
hogsliead of red wine, it will soon piecipitale the 
greater part of the colour, and leave the whole 
nea.ly white; and this is of known use in the turn- 
ing red wines, when pricked, into white; in which 
a small d.gree of acidity is not so much perceived. 

Milk is, from tiiis quality of disciiarging colour 
from wines, of use also to the wine-coopers, for the 
whitening of wines that have acquired a brown co- 
lour from the cask, or from having been hastily 
boiled before fermenting; for the addition of a lit- 



WINES. 



137 



Oe skimmed milk, in these cases, precipitates the 
brown colour, and leaves the wines almost lim- 
pid, or of what they call a water whiteness, 
which is much coveted abroad in wiues as well as 
in brandies. 

To preserve new wine against timnder. 

Thunder vvill turn and often chang:e wines. 
Cellars that are paved, and the walls of stone, are 
preterable to boarded floors. Befox-e a tempest of 
thunder, it will be advisable to lay a plate of iron 
upon the wine-vessels. 

To make tviae settle xvell. 

Take a pint of wheat, and boil it in a quart of 
water, till it burst and become soft; then squeeze 
itthroug' a linen cloth, and put a pint of the liquor 
into a ho°;shead of unsettled white wine; stir it 
well about, and it will become fine. 

To make a match for srveetening casks. 

Melt some brimstone, and dip into if a piece of 
coarse linen cloth; of which, when cold, take a piece 
of about an inch broad and five inches long, and set 
fire to it, putting it into the bung hole, with one 
end fastened under the bung, wViich must be driven 
in very tight: let it remain a few houi-s before re- 
moving it out. 

To make oyster powder. 

Get some fresh oyster shells, wash them, and 
scrape oft" the yellow part from the outside; lay 
them on a clear fire till they become red hot; then 
lay them to cool, and lake off the softest ])art, pow- 
der it, and sift it through a fine sieve; after whieii 
use it immediately, or keep it in bottles well cork- 
ed up, and laid in a dry place. 

To make aJiUering bag. 

This bag is made ot a yard of either linen or 
flannel, not too fine or close, and sloping, so as to 
have the bottom of it run to a point, J.nd the top as 
broad as the tlolh will allow. It must be well 
sewed up tlie side, and the upper part of it folded 
round a wooden hoop, and well fastened to it;tiien 
tie the hoop in three or four places with a cord to 
support it; and when used, put a can or pail under 
it to receive the liquor, filling the bag witli the se- 
diments; after it lias ceased to run, wash out the 
bag in three or four clear waters, then hang It up 
to dry in an airy jilace, that it may not get musty. 
A wine dealer should always have two bags by 
him, one for red, and the other for white wines. 
To bottle -wine. 

^Vhen wine is made fine and pleasant, it maybe 
bottled, taking care afterwards to pack it in a tem- 
perate place with saw-dust or leatlis. After which 
it will not be fit to drink for at least two months. 
Never use new deal saw-dust, as that causes the 
wine to fret, and often communicates a strong tur- 
pentine smell through the corks to the wine. 
To detect adi'Hei^ated idne. 

Heat equal parts of oyster shells and sulphur to- 
gether, and keep them in a white heat for fifteen 
minutes, and when cold, mix them with an equal 
quantity of cream of tartar; put this mixture into a 
strong bottle with common water to boil for one 
hour, and then decant into ounce phials, and add 
20 drops of muriatic acid to each; this liquor pre- 
cipitates the least quantity of lead, copper, &c. 
from wiues in a very sensible black precipitate. 
To actec.t alnm in -wine. 

Wine merchants and alum to red wine, to com- 
muaicate to it a rough taste and deeper colour; but 
this mixture produces on vhe system the most seri- 
ous effects. For the discovery of the fraud in 
question, adopt the following means:— The wine is 
to be discoloured by means of a concentrated solu- 
tion of chlorine; the mixture is to be evaporated 
until reduced to nearly the fourth of its original vo- 
lume; the liquor is to be filtered; it then jiossesses 
the following properties when it contains alum: — 
S 



1st, it has a sweetish astringent taste; 2d, it fur- 
nishesa white precipitate (sulphate of bary tes) with 
nitrate of bar; tes, insoluole in water and in nitric 
acid; 3d, caustic potash gives rise to a yellowish 
white precipitate of alumine, soluble in an excess 
of potash; 4th, the sub-carbonate of soda produces 
a yellowish white precipitate (suD-car))onate of 
alumine) decomjiosaijle by fire mto carbonic acid 
gas, alumine, easily recognizable by its charac- 
ters. 

.Another mode. — Add to the wine a sufficient 
quantity of a strong solution of chlorine water, 
(oxygenated muriatic acid) until it is changed to a 
yellow colour: let the precipitate, (composed of 
the chlorine and the vegeto-aniraal matter contain- 
ed in the wine), which immediately forms, become 
settled, then filter the liquor, and" evaporate it to 
|th of its volume; it will now, in consequence of 
the presence of the alum, have an astringent sweet- 
isli taste, and will furnish a white precipitate on 
the addition of nitrate of barytes, which is insolu- 
ble in water and in nitric acid. It will give a yel- 
lowish white precipitate with pure potass, that is 
soluble on the addition of an excess of the potass; 
and a precipitate of the same colour, with the sub- 
carbonate of soda. 

To detect lead and copper in wine, cider, perry, &c. 
Put into a crucible 1 oz. of sulphur, and 1 oz. ol 
pure lime; and keep them in a white heat lot 
nearly half an hour; when cold, add 1 ounce of the 
super-tartrate of potass, and boil the whole in a 
matrass with some distilled water for half an hout. 
Decant the supernatant liquor into small phials, 
adding about 20 or 30 drops of muriatic acid to 
each. The phials must be well stopped and pre- 
served for use. Lead, copper and other deleterious 
metals will be precipitated, of a black colour, by 
this liquid, if poured, in the quantity of only a few 
drops, into the suspected wine or cider. 

Another mode. — Another test for these perni- 
cious metals in wineandcider, exists ready formed 
in nature. Pour into a glass of suspected wine, 
cider, or perry, a few drops of Harrowgate water. 
If any lead, 8ic. be present, it will fall down in the 
state of a black precipitate, being combined with 
the sulphuretted hydrogen by which these waters 
are impregnated. 

Lead is used by many wine-merchants to give 
an astringency to port-wine; that, like old port, it 
may a[)pear rough to the tongue. Sometimes tliey 
hang a sheet of lead in the cask; at others they pour 
in a solution of acetate (sugar) of lead, for the pur- 
pose of sweetening, as they term it. 
To detect lead, corrosive sublimate, and antimony 
in wines, &c. 
Sulphuric acid decomposes them with precipi- 
tate, that is blackish when antimony is present, 
hut white with the two first mentioned: then, let 
the precipitate be washed witii boiling water; if it 
change not, it is lead; iH it acquire a yellow colour, 
it is mercury. 

Another test for lead in wine. 
Whatever quantity ot lead resides in wine, may 
be precipitated by mixing with it a fluid, made by 
exposing powdered oyster-shells and sulphur, equal 
quantities, to a white heat for a quarter of an hour; 
and when the compost is cold, add as much cream 
of tartar thereto. Put the whole in a strong bottle 
with common water, and let the liquor boil an 
hour; pour off the solution into ounce phials, each 
of which will be sufficient for a cask of wine, and 
add to each 20 drops of muriatic acid. Every por- 
tion of lead it may contain, will be found at the 
bottom, in the form of a black cindery precipitate. 
Having collected a sufficient quantity of this preci- 
pitate, upon an iron plate, expose it to a heat and 
the lead will rim off. 

JH 2 



38 



UXT^nERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



Another. — Take a paste of sulphur and iron fli- 
ngs, put it into a phial, and pour on it a small 
quantity of sulphuric acid. Pass fhe gas, which 
•vill arise, througli a bent tube, into a bottle of 
«'ater: when thus impregnated, it will form a new 
and improved test for the purpose. Wiien poured 
into wine which contains litharge, it will render it 
black and flakcy, and occasion a considerable pre- 
cipitation. 



jVote by the Amencan Editor. 
The culture of the vine, and the art of obtaining 
its delicious products, are subjects of so much pub- 
lic interest in this country at this particular mo- 
ment, that no apology is necessary for digressing 
a moment, to« state, that in the " Vine-Dresser's 



Manual, and Art of making Wine, Brandy, and 
Vinegar, by Thiebaut de Berneaud," published 
by P. Canfield, New York, 1829, every particular 
relative thereto is to be found. This little volume 
is wholly practical, and should be procured, and 
attentively studied by every one who intends plant- 
ing a vmeyard. Indeed, of so much importance 
does the editor consider the book in question, that, 
had time been afforded him to procure the origi- 
nal, he should have transferred ii wholly to this 
work. Though no legal obstaclesprevented his using 
the New York translation, others not less imperi- 
ous forbade him. Any of the booksellers of New 
York, or Philadelphia, can procure the treatise in 
question; and again 1 say to those interi;;ied, pui"- 
chase and study it. 



The object of distillation is the preparation of 
alcohol or pure spirit, whicli is obtained from bran- 
dy, rum, arrack, and whiskey, prepared from wine, 
sugar, rice, and malt. It also includes compound 
spirits, or those which, in addition to alcohol, con- 
tain some volatile or pungent oil or essence, — as 
gin, hollan(]s, caraway, and peppermint; tlie es- 
sential oils, as oil of cinnamon, oil uf clcves, oil of 
peppermint, lUid otto of roses; and tlie simple dis- 
tilled waters, which retain the fi-agrant flavour of 
the particular herbs with which ihev have been dis- 
tilled. 

To manage clislillation. 

Previous to distilling, the processes of brewing 
and fermentation are necessary. In distilling, there 
is only one general rul-^, namely, to let the heat, in 
all cases, be as gentle as possible. A water-bath, 
if sufficiently large, is preferable to any other mode, 
and will perform the operation with all the dis- 
pnlch requisite tbr the most extensive business. 
The spirit, as it first coniL'S over, should be receiv- 
ed into a quantity of cold water; as, by this means, 
the connexion between it and the oily matter will 
DC considerably lessened. For tlie same reason, 
after it has been once rectified in the water-bath, 
it should be again mixed with an equal quantity of 
■water, and distilled a second time. After the si)i- 
rit has been distilled once or twice in this manner, 
from water, it may be distilled in a water-bath 
without any addition; and this last rectification will 
free it from the greater part of the water which it 
may contain. 

In distilling compound spirits, a small still has 
been found to answer better than a large one. 
Uteyistl". 

In a distillery are required a variety of utensils, 
stsch as a still, worm-tub, pump, a water-cask, a 
strong press, hair-cloths, three or four iron-bound 
tubs, capable of containing from a hogshead to a 
pipe, of at^^' liqiior; three or four cans, capable of 
holding from two to six gallons by measure, an 
iron-bound wooden funnel, having a strong iron 
nosel, or pipe; a pewter syphon, about six feet and a 
half long, and four inches in circumference; iiannel 
bags, for refining the thick and feculent matter at 
the bottom of the casks and other vessels. 
Operation of the still. 

When the still is charged, let the fire under it 
be lighted; and whilst it burns up, the joints should 
je carefully hite.d. 



By la3'ing the hand on the still and capital, as 
the fire gains strength, the process of the operation 
will be ascertained; for, whenever the head, or ca- 
pital, feels hot, it is a proof that the volatile parti- 
cles have arisen, and are about to enter the worm. 
When the still head is about to become liot, pre- 
pare a damp, made of the ashes under the grate, 
mixed with as much water as will [iroperly wet 
them. This mixture is to be thrown iq)on the fire, 
to moderate its action, at the instant when distilla- 
tion has commenced. Continue the heat as long 
as the distilled liquid is spirituous to the taste. 
When the distilled li(juor carries with it any par- 
ticular flavour, it should be re-distilled with essen- 
tial oils, in order to convert it into a compound 
spirit, as gin, peppermint, and other cordials. 

When all the spirituous fluid is drawn oft', the 
still should be emptied by a cock in the side. The 
head, ike. should then be removed, and the several 
lutes taken clean ofl'. The still may now be charg- 
ed a second time, and luted. If the spirit, or com- 
pound to be made, is of a diflerenl natuie or flavour 
from that procured by die last distillation, the still, 
capital, and worm should be thorougiily cleaned 
by hot water, sand, and a scrubbing brush, to re- 
move the oily particles which adhere to their in- 
tei'nal surfaces. The worm is best cleansed by 
passing hot water through it repeatedly, until the 
water flows out quite flavourless. 

Great care should be taken that no grease, tal- 
low, soap, or any other unctuous matter, fall into 
the tubs, pieces, rundlets, or cans. — Above all 
things, lighted candle? torches, or papers, should 
not be brought near any vessel containing spirits. 
The flue or chimney should be kept constantly 
clean. 

To use a portable furnace. 

In the laboratories of experimental chemists, 
portable furnaces are employed. Charcoal is the 
only fuel that can be used in them, except the oc- 
casional use of the finer kinds of stone coal that 
yield a bright flame, and burn to a white ash with- 
out forming clinkers. When the fire is regulated 
by the admission of only the necessary quantii}' of 
air through the charcoal, and the whole heat of the 
fuel is ilirected upon the subject exposed to it, tlie 
expense is not so great as might be supposed, for 
no other fuel gives out so much heat. One lb. of 
charcoal will boil away 13 lbs. of water, whereas 
tlie same weight of Newcastle coal will boil awa? 



DISTILLA1TON. 



139 



only 8 or 9 lbs. A pound of coke will only boil 
away 4 lbs. of water, and a pound of peat seldom 
more than 5 lbs. or by a skilful mode of using it at 
the utmost 10 lbs. 

Ts build fixed fuTiiaces. 

Windsor bricks are generally used, as they may 
be cut as easily as chalk, and yet bear a violent 
heat without alteration; they must be set in clay of 
the same field. The parts" distant from the fire 
may be of common bricks set in mortar, but this 
mortar must be carefully removed before the other 
part is begun, as an accidental admixture of it witli 
the clay would cause the latter to run into glass, 
and thus spoil the furnace. These furnaces are 
generally built as thin as possible that they may 
take up the less room, and to save fuel in heating 
them as they have seldom fire constantly in them; 
in this case, they should be surrounded with iron 
braces, to prevent the alternate contraction and ex- 
pansion destroying them as soon as they otherwise 
•would. 

To make a portable sand-pot. 

For a portable one, the ash pit may be an iron 
cylinder, 17 inches in diameter and 8 deep, closed 
at bottom. In the front is cut a hole 3 inches high 
and 4 wide, with sliders to shut close. Three pins 
are riveted on the inside about an inch below the 
upper edge; these are to support the fire-place. 
Ihe bottom of this ash pit is lined with clay, beat 
up with charcoal dust a\id formed into a kind of 
saucer. The fire-place is a small cylinder of nearly 
the same width, so as to fit easily into the top of the 
ash pit, and rest on the tiiree pins; its height is 15 
inches, and it lias a Hat border at each end, leaving 
a circularrpening of 10 inches in diameter. Around 
the lower border are riveted three screws, to which 
are fixed, by nuts, a grate. In the upper border, 
towards the circumference, and at equal distances 
from each other, are made four circular holes an 
inch over. The inside of the fire-place is lined 
-with clay and charcoal, whose surface is adjusted 
to a core, made by drawing on a board an ellipsis, 
having its foci 15 inches asunder, and its semior- 
dinates at tlie foci 5 inches, sawing off the board at 
each focus, and also down the greatest diameter, so 
that the internal cavity may represent an ellipsoid 
of those dimensions, cut off at the foci. A fire- 
hole al)out 6 inches wide and 4 inches and a half 
high, with the lower limit about 3 inches above the 
grate, is left in the front to be closed with a lined 
stopper; both the fire hole and stopper liaving a 
border to retain the lining. When tlie lining is 
dry, four openings are cut sloping through it, cor- 
responding to tlie oneniiigs in the upper border, to 
serve as vents for the burnt air, and to regulate the 
fire In- sliding pieces of tile more or less over them. 
In the central opening at the top of the fire-place is 
hung a cast-iron pot, eitlier hemispherical, or, 
which is most usual, cylindrical, about 6 inches 
deep at the edge, with a rounded bottom, so that 
the axis is about an inch deeper. The r nimoii 
pots have only a reflected border by which tliey 
hang; but the best kind have also an upright edge 
that rises an inch higher, to which a stone-ware 
head is fitted; and thus the pot serves for many dis- 
tillations that require a strong fire. It is usual to 
cut a notch on one side of the top ot the fire-place, 
sloping u])wards to the edge of the pot, about 3 
inches wide and 2 deep, to admit a low retort to be 
sunk deeper into the pot, by allowing a passage to 
its neck. 

7'o 7nake a sand-heai jumace. 

A furnace of this kind may be stationary, and 
built of bricks that will stand the fire: and in this 
case, the ash pit is built about I'i inches high, and 
has an ash-door opening into it about 6 mches 
square; a grate is then laid, and a fire-door 6 inches 



by S opens immediately into the fire-place, even 
with the grate. The fire-place is made cylindrical, 
2 inches wider than the sand pot, and about 8 
inches deeper; the grate being a square whose side 
is about two-thirds the internal diameter of the 
sand-pot. This pot hangs by its border in an iron 
ring placed at the top of the furnace; we have iio< 
yet adopted Teichmeyer's method of sloping thf 
pot. As stone coal is genei-ally used in fixing fur- 
naces, instead of the 4 register holes used as vents 
in the portable furnaces, only one opening, about 
as wide as the grate, and 3 inches high, either in 
the back or on one side, is made to vent the burned 
air into the chimney. This, however, has the in- 
conveniency of heating the pot unequally, the side 
next the vent becoming much the hottest, in spite 
of the endeavour to equalize the heat by bringing 
tlie fire from under the centre of the pot as forward 
as ])ossible, by raising the wall opposite to the vent 
per,!endicularly, and enlarging it only on the other 
three sides; sometimes, with the same view, seve- 
ral small vents are made round the pot, leading 
into the chimney. A notch for the neck of the re- 
tort is generally made on one side. As much heat 
passes tlirougli the vent, it is usi;al to cause the 
healed air to yiass under a large cast-iron plate, 
placed on a border of bricks surrounding a plat- 
form of the same materials, and leaving a cavity of 
about 2 inches and a half deep, at the further end 
of which, another opening leads into the chimney. 
On this iron plate, sand is laid to form a sand heat, 
and tlius several operations are carried on at the 
saiTie time. If that in the sand-pot is finished, and 
it is desired to keep on those in the sand-lieat 
wi'ihout interruption, the vessel may be drawn out 
of the sand, some warm sand thrown on that re- 
maining in the pot, and a fresh vessel with mate- 
rials introduced. But if this new operation should 
require the neat to be more giadualiy exhibited, a 
pot of thin plate iron, filled with cold sand, con- 
taining the vessel, may be partly slid into the heat- 
ed sand-pot, and, being supported by pieces of 
brick placed under the edge or otherwise, kept 
there until it be necessary to increase the heal, 
when it may be slid down lower until at length it 
is permitted to reach the bottom of the sand-pot. 
Tc make a hot still. 
Portable hot stills should have an ash-pit and 
fire-place exactly similar in dimensions to those 
used with the sand-pot, or the same furnace may 
be used with a hot still, if economy and not conve- 
nieixce is the prim ipal object. The copper or tin 
plate cucurbite will, of course, he 10 inches wide, 
and about 12 deep, and hang 7 inches within the 
fire-place. The mouth should be wide, 'Jiat the 
water-bath lo be occasionally hung withiu ii so as 
to reach witliin 3 inches of the bottom may be the 
larger. Hetwuen this wide neck and the circum- 
ference there should be a short pipe, through which 
the liquor left ;.fter distillation may be drawn off 
b)'^ a crane without uiduting the vessels; fresh li- 
quor added; or, in distilling with the water-bath, 
the steam may escape. This pipe has a ring round 
it, that the cork witli which it is stopped may be 
firmly tied down, and like the other joinings be 
luted; for which purpose slips of paper smeared 
wiih flour and water, or common paste, are usually 
esteemed suificient; l)ut the best material is blad- 
ders rotted in water until they smell extremely 
offensive and adhere to the fingers v.hen touched, 
and then worked between the hands into rolls, 
which are to be tiiplied to the joinings. These 
small stills havt usually a Moor's head that fits 
both the cucurbite and the water-bath, their necks 
being cf equal diameter, and is furnished with a 
groove round the lower part on the inside to dire»>l 
the condensed vapour to the nose of the alembick; 



HO 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



and this head is surrounded bv a pefrigeratory con- 
taining cold water, wliich is not so cumbersome as 
and less expensive than a worm and tub. But the 
most advantageous way of cooling tlie vapours is to 
use a Moor's head without a surrounding refi'ige- 
ratory, or only a plain bent tube, which should be 
at least 18 inches long, that the small globules of 
the boiling liquor which are thrown up near a foot 
high, should not pass over, and render the distilled 
liquor unfit for keeping. To this is to be adapted 
a pewter 7)ipo, about 8 feet long if spirit of wine is 
to be distilled; or shorter for watery liquors; and 
in both cases | of an inch in diameter on the inside, 
inclosed in a tinned plate tube with a funnel. With 
an adopter of this kind, and the consumption of a 
pint and a half of water in a minute, or about 9 gal- 
lons in an hour, spirit of wine may be distilled at 
the rate of a gallon by the hour, from one of these 
portable stills. Another convenience of these straiglit 
pipes is, that they may be cleansed in the sume 
manner as a fowling piece. 

To make a large still. 

If this furnace is fixed, and made of bricks, it 
may be constructed with a sand heat like that an- 
nexed to the sand-pot: but this is seldom practised, 
although it would be advantageous for digestions 
and evaporations with a gentle heat, because the 
fire is generally kept up at an even height. If the 
cucurbite is not wanted for distilling, it may be 
used as a boiler to keep water ready heated for use, 
and to be drawn oft' when wanted by a syphon or 
crane. But these fixed stills are usually furnished j 
with a pipe and cock on a level with thf bottom, 
by which they can be emptied, and have almost al- 
ways a worm and tub to cool the vapours; the head 
is usually of that kind which is called a swan's 
neck. 

Jlstier''s improved still. 

It has been proved that as soon as a common still 
is in operation, tl>e steam from the capital in the 
first turn of the worm is at a temperature of 80°, or 
100° of Reaumur. Here water only condenses, 
and the alcohol in vapour passes into the second 
turn, where it condenses bj' the lowered tempera- 
ture. If the condensed liquid is drawn off from 
the upper turn, it is mere phlegm, or water; while 
that from the second turn is alcohol, or spirit. The 
mode of doing this is veiy simple, and can be ap- 
plied to any old still; so that every advantage re- 
sulting from the most complicated and expensive 
stills can be obtained; tliat is to say, plain brandy, 
Dutch proof, and even thirty-five and thirty-sixth 
proof. The alterations are effected as follows. 
Each turn of the worm is to be furnished with a 
very slender lateral pipe, ending in a faucet and 
tap. A crescent shaped valve, placed just before 
the opening of the pipe into the worm, obliges the 
condensed liquid to trickle into the pipe, and a 
slight elbow above and below the pipe prevents 
any of the steam from running in the same direc- 
tion. Each of these pipes follows the main worm 
in all its convolutions, comes out of the condenser 
at the same opening, and is led thence to its own 
receiver. The pipe of the first turn has also a se- 
cond branch with a faucet, which lets out the phlegm, 
(which is worthless) as fast as it is condensed. A 
prover indicates the moment when the feints should 
be separated, as simple brandy or proof spirit is 
wanted. These feints are either detained in the 
Boiler, or set aside for rectification, in all cases 
necessary for the last spirit that comes over, with- 
out which it IS worthless. 

Besides producing more spiriv., and saving three- 
fourths out of the feints, the woim prepared as 
ibove shortens the term of distillation l)y one half, 
»nd consequently reduces the expense of fuel. In 
uidition to tliis, and what is of more consequence. 



a sour wine may be distilled as well as any other, 
and without the least taint being perceptible in the 
brandy. The spirit is, ol course, less in quantity, 
but whatever is obtained is good, and all the acid 
separates and flows out by the first pipe, which 
gives an opportunity of profiting by the acetous por- 
tion. 

To extingrdsh fire in distilleries. 

A woollen blanket or rug, hang over a roller in 
a water-butt, is the readiest and best extinguisher. 
'I 'o diddfy spirits. 

In dulcifying, or sweetening the spirits, weigh 
the sugar, and dissolve it in one or more cans of 
the water, with which the compound is to be made 
up: bruise the sugar, and stir it well, till all is dis- 
solved. Then empty it into the cask containing 
the spirits; mixing all together, by drawing off se- 
veral cans by the cock, and emptying them into the 
casks by the bung holes. Now rummage all well 
together, till tiiey are perfectly compounded. 

Spirits or compounds that are strong, require no 
assistance in setting, and becoming clear; but those 
that are weak must be refined by the addition of 
some other substance. To every hogshead of Ge- 
neva, or other spirituous compound, ])ut six ounces 
of powdered alum, previously dissolved in three or 
four gallons of the compound: stir all well together. 
In the course of twenty-four hours, the whole will 
be rendered completely clear. 

It is a good practice to leave the bung-lioles of 
casks (containing spirits or compounds newly 
made) open for several days: this impi-oves their 
flavour; and I'enders them clear, sooner than they 
would otherwise be. 

Table-salt throw n into the still, in the propor- 
tion of 6 ounces to 10 gallons of any liquid to be 
distilled, will greatly iiT.prove the riiivonr, taste, 
and strength of llie spirit. The viscid matter will 
be fixed by tlie salt, whilst the volatile matter 
ascends in a state of great purity. 

The flavour of malt spirits is highly improved 
by putting 3^ ounces of finely ])0wdered charcoal, 
and 4^ ounces of ground rice, into a quart of spi- 
rits, and letting it stand during 15 days, frequent- 
ly stirring it; then let the liquor be strained, and 
it will be tound nearly of the same flavour as brandy. 
To make charcoal. 

This is usually manufactured from coppice wood, 
cut eveiy 16 years; the faggots are made into a 
large conical pile, covered up with clods of eai'th, 
leaving circular rows of holes from top to bottom. 
The wood is then kindled, and as it becomes red, 
the holes are regularly closed to stop the further 
combustion, and when the whole has been closed 
up, the pile is left to cool; when the black skeleton 
of the wood is left, which differs from the raw 
wood in burning without any smoke, and with lit- 
tle or no flame, yielding at the same time no soot, 
although some of the finer particles of the ashes are 
volatilized and adhere to ti»e chimney. The air 
which passes through the burning charcoal has its 
o.xygenous part converted into carbonic acid gas, 
without being, when cooled, any ways altered in 
bulk, although its weight by the gallon is increased 

The air being thus rendered unfit for respira- 
tion, kills whatever animals or plants are confined 
in it: numerous accidents have happened of persons 
being suffocated by sleeping in close rooms with s 
charcoal fire. 

l"he cnarcoal for medical purposes should, like 
that for gun-powder, be nvxde of soft woods, as al- 
der, healed in iron long necks until no volatile 
matter is given out. Small quantities may be made 
by burying wood u.jder sand in a covered crucible^ 
and exposing the whole to fire. 

To make spirit ofiuine. 

Spirit of wine, as it is called, was formerly, and 



DISTILLATION. 



141 



is still, in southern countries, obtained by distill- 
tiig wine for its yield of brandy, and then slowly 
aostracting the more volatile part of the branily, by 
a small fire and the use of tall vessels. In England, 
spirit of wine is, in general, obtained from gronnd 
meal, either of wheat, rye, or barley, with from 
otie-tenth to one-third of the same, oranothersjrain, 
malted and ground, and then called malt spirit; or 
from treacle, and then called molasses spirit; some 
IS also made from apples, or cider wash. The 
fermentation is earned on quiclier and farther than 
in brewing or making cider, in order lliat all tlie 
sugar in the wash may be converted into siiirit and 
water. The infusion of the malt and meal is made 
so strong, that its specific gravitj' is from 1.083 to 
1.14, (whereas that for strong ale is generally 1.0(3 
and for small beer, 1.015 to 1.04) and is mixed 
with a large quantity of yeast, added by successive 
portions, until, in about ten days, the specific gra- 
vity is reducecl to 1.002, when it is fit for the still. 
In general, a third part is drawn off at the first stil- 
ling, under the name of low wines, the specific gra- 
vity being about 0.975. On ic-distilling the low 
wines, a fiery spirit, of a milky cast, comes over 
first, and is returned into the still: then follows the 
clean spirit: when it begins to grow too watery, 
the remaining spirit that comes over, as long as it 
will take fire, is kept apart, under the name of 
feints, and mixed with the next parcel of low wines. 
Instead of these trials, the iiead of the still may 
have the bulb of a thermometer inserted into it, 
and by observing the temperature of the steam, an 
accurate judgment may be formed of the strength 
of the spirit that distills over. It is computed, that 
100 gallons of malt or corn wash will produce about 
UO of spirit, containing about half its weight of wa- 
ter; mohsses wash, 22 gallons; cider wash, 15 gal- 
lons. The best French wines yield from 20 to 25 
gallons. The spirit thus obtained is for chemical 
and pharmaceutical purposes mixed with water, to 
separate the oil it contait s, and re-distilled several 
times in tall vessels, with a very gentle heat, until 
its specific gravity is reduced to 82; though that 
usually sold is only 0.837, at 60 deg. Fahrenheit. 
By distilling spirit of wine with purified pearl 
ashes, salt ot tartar, muriate of lime, lime, or com- 
mon salt, all previously heated to redness, and 
cooled, its specific gravity may be reduced still 
lower, even as low as 0.792, at 68 deg. Fahrenheit; 
but there is reason to think, that it not only parts 
with water, but also undergoes some change, or 
acquires some impregnation by these additions, as 
its taste is altered. This spirit of wine, from which 
every pailicle of water is separated, is called by 
the Arabic name of alcohol. 

To make ether. 
The old chemists, after mixing spirit of wine 
with an equal weight of oil of vitriol, digested it for a 
long time, and then distilled the most volatile part, 
which was called the sweet oil of vitriol. At pre- 
sent, the mixture, whose temperature is consider- 
ably increased, is placed in a heated sand bath and 
distilled, without being suffered to cool until one 
half the quantity of the spirit is come over, mean- 
while, an inflammable gas also passes over. If 
the distillation is continued, sulphurous acid passes 
over, and a light yellow sweet oil of wine; the 
black residuary sulphuric acid contains charcoal 
diffused through it, which may be separated by ad- 
mixture with water and filtration. If fresh alco- 
hol is poured on the residuum, more ether maybe 
obtained by distillation. The unrectified ether, as 
the first product is called, contains both water and 
alcohol: dry salt of tartar separates the first, and 
then pouring off the upper liquid, and adding dry 
muriate of lime in powder, this salt unites with 
the alcohol, and the ether swims on the solution. 



To imitate foreign spirits. 

A. great desideratum among <lislillers, in this 
countr}', is to imiiate foreign spirits, sudi as bran- 
dy, rum, geneva, &c. to a tolerable degree of i)er- 
fection; but, notwithstanding the rnaiiy attempts 
that are daily made for this purpose, the success, 
in general, has been indifferent. The general me- 
thod of distilling brandies in France, differs it, no- 
tliing from that practised here, with malt-wash or 
molasses; nor are the French distillers in the least 
more cleanly in their operations. Still, though 
brandy is distilled from wine, experience tells us 
that tiiere is a great difference in the grapes from 
which the wine is made. Every soil, every cli- 
mate, every kind of grape, varies with regard to 
the quantity and quality of the spirit distilled from 
them. A large quantity of brantH is distilled in 
France during the time of the vintage: for the 
poor grapes that prove unfit for wine, are usually 
first gathered, pressed, their juice fermented, and . 
instantly distilled. It is a general rule with them, 
not to distil wine that v, ill fetch any price as luine; 
for, in this stnte, the profits obtained ai'e much 
greater than when the wine is reduced to brandies. 

For a long time, this liquor was distilled only 
from spoilt wine, and afterwards from the dregs of 
beer and wine: and when, instead of these, the dis- 
tillers employed rye, wheat, and barley, it was con- 
sidered as a wicked and unpardonable misuse of 
corn. 

To condense vapours in distillation. 

This is best acconjplished by means of a disk at- 
tached to the tube of the still which has the figure 
of a lens, flattened as much as possible and made 
of copper. It produces a much better and more 
rapid effect than the worms employed for that 
purpose. 

To make British brandy. 

To sixty gallons of clean rectified spirit put 1 
pound of sweet spirit of nitre, 1 pound of cassia 
buds ground, 1 pound of bitter almond meal, (the 
cassia and almond meal to be mixed together be- 
fore they are put to the spirits), 2 ounces of sliced 
orris root, and about 30 or 40 prune stones pound- 
ed; agitate the whole well together, two or three 
times a day, for three days or more: let them set- 
tle, then pour in 1 gallon of the best wine vine- 
gar; and add to every 4 gallons 1 gallon of foreign 
brandy. 

To imitate Cogniac brandy. 

English spirits, with proper management, are 
convertible irto brandy, hardly distinguishable 
from foreign, provided the operation is neatly per- 
formed. The best, and indeed the only method of 
imitiiting the French brandies to perfection, isby an 
essential oil ofimie, tliis being the very ingredient 
which gives the French brandies their flavour. It 
must however be remembered, that, in order to 
use even this ingredient to advantage, a pure taste- 
less spirit must first be produced. 

To prepare the oil ot wine, dissolve some cakes 
of diy wine-lees in six or eight times their weight of 
water, distil the liquor by a slow fire, and separate 
the oil by a separatory glass, reserving for the ni- 
cest uses that which comes over the first, tha suc- 
ceeding oil being coarser and more resinous. This 
oil of wine should be dissolved in alcohol, other- 
wise it will soon grow rancid. 

To imitate Cogniac brandy, it will be necessary 
to dist'l the essential oil from Cogniac lees, and 
the same for any other kind of brandy. The proof, 
it may be easily accomplished, by using a spirit 
rectified above proof, wiiich, intimately combined 
with the esential oil, may be reduced to a proper 
standard by distilled water. The softness may, in 
a g'"eat measure, be obtaine<l by distilling and reo- 
tifying the spirit over a gentle fire; and, what it 



14^ 



UNI'VERSAL RECEIPT EOOK. 



wanlins;, when the spirit is lirsl. made, will be sup- 
plied by time. Treacle ov burnt sugar gives tiie 
spiritafine colour, nearly resembling tliat of French 
brandy; but as its colour is deep, a large quantity 
must beused; and the bubble proofis greatly height- 
ened by the tenacity imparted to the liquor by tlie 
treacle, while the spirit acquires from the mixture 
a luscious taste. A much smaller quantity of burnt 
sugar than of treacle will however be sufficient fcjr 
colouring the same quantity of spirits, and it ac- 
quires an agreeable bitterness. The burnt sugar 
is prepared by dissolving a i)roper quantity of sugar 
til a little water, and scorching it over the fire till 
!t acquires a black colour. 

To procure the oil of wine. 
This oil should he distilled from the thick lees 
of Fi'ench wiiie«, because of the flavour, and when 
procured must be kept ready for use. It must be 
mixed with the purest spirit of wine, such as alco- 
hol; by which means it may be preserved a long 
time. The Lottie should be shaken before the oil 
is used. 

When the flavour of the brandy is well imitated 
by a proper portion of llie essential oil, and the 
•whole reduced into one nature, yet other difficul- 
ties still exist; whicli are, the colour, the softness, 
and the proof. The ))roof may be effected by using 
a spirit above proof, which after being mixed with 
the oil may be let down to any strength with water. 
'I'lie softness will be attained bj' getting a spirit 
that has been distilled by a slow fire; and tlie co- 
lour may be regulated by the use of brandy co- 
louring. 

To make brandy from treacle. 
Spirit distilled from common tref.cle dissolved 
in water, should be fermented in the same manner 
as the wash for common malt spirit. Kfresh wine- 
lees abounding in tartar, are well fermented with 
molasses, the spirit will acquire a greater vinosity 
and briskness, and approach the nature of foreign 
brandy. If the molasses spirit, brought to the 
common proof strength, is found not to have suffi- 
cient vinosity, it will be proper to add some sweet 
spirits of nitre; and if the spirit has been properly 
distilled by a gentle heat, it may, by this addition 
only, be made to pass with ordinary judges as 
Frencli brandy. Great quantities of this spirit are 
used in adulterating foreign brandy, rum, and 
arrack. Much of it is also used alone, in making 
eheny brandy and other cordials by infusion; in 
all which many prefer it to foreign brandies. Mo- 
lasses, like all other spirits, is enti "ely colourless 
■when first extracted; but distillers give it, as nearly 
as possible, the colour of foreign spirits. 
7'o make brandy from potatoes. 
Potatoes by distillation afford brandy of the best | 
quality, not to be distinguished from that obtained 
from wine. One thousand lbs. pressed, fermented, 
and distilled daily, affords from 60 to 70 quarts of 
good brandy. The residue of the potatoe, after 
the spirit is extracted, is used as food for cattle. 
To improve British brandy. 
Take thirty gallons of fine English brandy, three 
ounces of tincture Japonica, and nine ounces of 
spirit of nitre dulci s. Incorporate these with some 
9f the spirit, and then put it into the rest of the li- 
quor, and stir it well .bout. This will make 
thirty gallons of brandy , and if it be a good clean 
spirit, it will much resemble French brandy. 
To prepare tincture .Taponica. 
Take of the best English saffron, and dissolve 
one ounce; mace bruised, one ounce; infuse them 
into a pint of brandy till the whole tincture of the 
saffron is extracted, which will be in seven or 
eight days; then strain it through a linen cloth, and 
to the strained tincture add two ounces of tartar Ja- 



! ponica powdered fine; let it infuse till the tincture 
is wholly impregnated. 

To make .famaica nun. 
Tliis is obtained from the refuse of the raw su 
gar manufactories, by taking e.^;i:!] (juantiiies of 
the skimmings of the sugar pans, of lees or returns 
as they are commonly called, and of watei': and to 
100 gallons of this wash are added ten gallons of 
molasses. This afi^ards from 10 to 17 gallons of 
proof rum, and twice as much low wines; it is 
sometimes rectified to a strength approacliing to 
spirit of wine, and is then called double distilled 
rum. 

To imitate Jamaica mm. 
To imitate Jamaica rum, it is necessary to pro- 
cure some of the tops, or other parts of the sugar 
canes, and to put them in a still, in the proportion 
of a pound weight to two gallonsof pure flavourless 
spirit, and one gallon of pure water. The distil- 
lation may be carried on by a brisk heat, pro\ ided 
there is a quantity of common salt, (in the propor- 
tion of an ounce to each gallon of liquid in tlie 
still), to prevent the mucilaginous matter from ari- 
sing with the spirit. The product when rectified 
and coloured by burnt sugar, will possess every 
character of excellent rum. 
I To obtain rum from molasses. 

i Mix two or three gallons of water with one gal- 
I Ion of molasses, and to everj' 200 gallons of this 
mixture add a gallon 'jf yeast. Once or twice^a 
day the head as it rises is stirred in, and in three 
or four days, 2 gallens more of water is added to 
each gallon of molasses originally used, and the 
same quantity of yeast as at first. Four, five, of 
six days after this, a portion of yeast is added as 
before, and about an ounce of jalap root powdered, 
(nr in winter one ounce and a half), on which the 
fermentation proceeds with great violence, and in 
three or four days, the wasli is fit for the still: one 
hundred gallons of this wash is computed to yield 
twenty-two gallons of spirit from one to ten over 
proof. ^ 

To prepare gin as in Holland. 
The grist is composed of ten quarters of malt, 
ground considerably finer than malt distillers' bar- 
ley grist, and three quarters of lye-meul; or, more 
frequently, of ten quarters of lye and three quar- 
ters of malt-meal. The ten quarters are first 
mashed, with the least quantity of cold water it is 
possible to blend it with, and when uniformly in- 
corporated, as much boiling water is added as 
forms it into a thin batter: it is then put into one, 
two, or more casks, or gyle tuns, with a much less 
quantity of yeast than is usually employed by our 
distillers. Generally, on the third day, the Dutch 
distillers add the malt or rye-meal, prepared in a 
similar manner, but not before it comes to the tem- 
perature of the fermenting wash; at the same time 
adding as much yeast as at first. 

The principal secret is the management of the 
mashing part of the business, in first thoroughly 
mixing the malt with the cold water, and in subse- 
quently adding the due proportion of boiling water, 
that it may still remain sufficiently diluted after 
the addition of the fine meal; also in well rousing 
all together in the back, that the wash may be di- 
lute enough for distilling, without endangering its 
burning to the bottom. 

Rectification into Hollands gin. 
To every 20 gallons of spirit of the second ex- 
traction, about the strength of proof, take of juniper 
berries, 3 lbs. oil of juniper, 2 oz. and distil with 
a slow tire, until the feints begin to rise, then 
change the receiving can; this produces the best 
Rotterdam gin. 
An inferior kind is made with a still les.s pro- 



DISTILLATION. 



143 



portion ot berries, sweet fennel seed, and Stras- 
ijurg turpentine, without a drop of oil of juniper; 
and a better sort, but inferior to the Rotterdam, is 
made 'UWeesoppe. The distiller's wash atSchee- 
tlam and Rotterdam, is lig;hter than at Weesoppe. 
Strasburg turpentine is of a yellowish-brown co- 
lour, a very fragrant agreeable smell, yet the least 
acrid of the turpentine. The juniper berries are 
io cheap in Holland, that they must have other rea- 
sons than mere cheapness for being so much more 
sparing of tlieir consumption than our distillers. 
To make malt sjdrit. 

Mix 60 quarters o* oarley grist, ground low, and 
20 quartei-s of coarse ground i)ale malt, with 250 
barrels of water, at about 170 degrees Fahrenheit. 
Take out 30 barrels of the wort, and add to this 10 
store of fresh porter yeast, and when the remain- 
ing wort is cooled down to 55 degrees, add 10 
quarters more malt, previously mixed with 30 bar- 
rels of warm water; stir the whole well together, 
and put it to ferment along with the reserved yeast- 
ed wort: this wash will be found to weigh, by the 
saccharometer, from 28 to 32 lbs. per barrel, more 
than water. In the course of 12 or 14 days, the 
veast head will fall quite flat, and tlie wash will 
nave a vinous smell and taste, and not weigh raire 
than from 2 to 4 lbs. per barrel more than water. 
Some now put 20 lbs. of common salt, and 30 lbs. 
of Hour, and in 3 or 4 days put it into the still, pre- 
viously stirring it well together. Every 6 gallons 
of this wash will produce one gallon oi spirit, at 
from 1 to 10 over proof; or 18 gallons of spirit from 
each quarter of grain. 

English geneva. 

'V\ie best English geneva is made as follows: 
Take of juniper-berries, 3 lbs. proof spirit, 10 gal- 
lons, water, 4 do. Draw oft" by a gentle fire, till 
the feints begin to rise, and make up the goods to 
the required strength with clear water. 
To distil spirits from carrots. 

Take one ton and eight stone of carrots, which, 
after being exposed a few days to dry, will weigh 
about 160 stone. Tlie whole being cut, put one- 
third of the quantity into a copper, with twenty- 
four gallons of water, and after covering them up 
close, reduce the whole into a pulp. The other 
two-thirds are to be treated in tlie same maimer, 
and as tiie pulp is taken from the copper, it is car- 
ried to the press, where the juice is extracted with 
great facility. 'I'be liquor obtained will amount to 
200 gallons, and will be of a rich sweet taste, rt- 
sembling wort. It is then put into the copper with 
one pound of hops, and suffered to boil about five 
hours, when it is put into the cooler^ to remain till 
the heat comes down to 66 degrees. From the 
cooler it is discharged into the vat, where six 
quarts of }easi are put to it, in the usual manner. 
Let it work forty-eight hours, or till 58 deg., when 
tlie yeast begins to fall. Then heat twelve gallons 
of unfcrmented juice, and put it to the liquor, and 
the lieat will be raised to 66 deg. Work afresh for 
twentj'-Four hours longer, the liquor gradually low- 
ering, as before, from 66 to 58°. Tun the whole 
into half-hogsheads, to work from the bung. After 
standing tliree daj's in the casks, fifty gallons may 
be drawn off, which is rectified the next day with- 
out any additional substance. Twelve gallons of 
spirit will be obtained. 

To make arrack. 

Arrack is no other than a spirit produced by dis- 
tillation from a vegetable juice called toddy, which 
flows out of the cocoa-nut tree. The operator pro- 
vides himself with a parcel of earthen pots, climbs 
up the trunk of a cocoa-tree; anu when he comes to 
the boughs, he cuts off one of the small knots or 
buttons, and applies the mouth of a bottle to the 
wound, fastening it to the bough with a bandage; 



in the same manner he cuts off others, and pro- 
ceeds till the whole number is employed: this done, 
he leaves them until (he next mo..iing, when he 
takes off the. bottles, which are mostly filled, and 
em])lies the juice into the proper' receptacle. 
When a sufficient quantity isproihiced, the whole, 
put together, is left to ferment. When the fer- 
mentation is over, atid the liquor is a little tart, it 
is put into the still, and fire being made, tiie stil! 
is suffered to work as long as that which comes ott 
has any considerable taste of sjiirit. The liquor 
thus procured is the low wine of arrack; and is dis- 
tilled again to separate some of its watery parts, 
and recHfy it to that veiy weak kind of proof-spi- 
rit in whicli state we find it 

Tungusian arrack is a spirituous liquor made by 
the Tartars of Tungusia, of mare's milk, left tc 
sour, and afterwards distilled twice or thrice be- 
tween two earthen pots closely stopped, Mhence 
the liquor runs tlirough a small wooden pipe. 
To fine spirits. 

Mix a small quantity of wheat flour in water •'» 
if for making paste, and pour the same into the 
vessel. The wliole is then to be well roused, and 
in a short time the contents will become bright. 
To extract alcohol from potatoes. 

Take 100 lbs. of potatoes well washed, dress 
them by steam, and let them be bruised to powdei 
with a roller, &,c. In the nsaii time take 4 lbs. of 
ground malt, steep it in lukewarm water, and then 
pour into the fermenting back, and pour on it 
twelve quarts of boiling water; this water is stirred 
about, and the bruised potatoes thrown in, and well 
stii-red about with wooden rakes, till every part of 
the potatoes is well saturated with the liquor. 

immediately, six or eight ounces of yeast is to be 
mixed willi twenty-eight gallons of water of a pro- 
per warmth to make the whole mass of the tempe- 
rature of from 59 to 66 degrees; there is to be 
added half a pint to a pint of good brandy. 

The fermenting back must be placed in a room, 
to be kept by means of a stove at a -temperature 
from 66 to 72 degrees. The mixture must be left 
to remain at rest. 

The back must be large enough to suffer the mass 
to risd seven or eight inches without running over 
If, notwithstanding this precaution, it does so, a 
little must be taken out, and returned when it falls 
a little; the back is then covered again, and the 
fermentation is suffered to finish without touching 
it — which takes place generally in five or sis days 
This is known by its being perceived that the li- 
([Uor is quite clear, and the potatoes fallen to the 
bottom of the back. The fluid is decanted, and 
the potatoes pressed dry. 

The distillation is by vapour, with a wooden or 
copper still on the plan of Count Rumford. The 
product of the first distillation is low wines. 

When the fermentation has been favourable, 
from every 100 lbs. of potatoes, six quarts and up- 
wards of good brandy, of 20 degrees of the areo- 
meter, are obtained; which, put into new casks, 
and afterwards browned with burnt sugar, like the 
French brandies, is not to be distinguished from 
them. 

One thousand pounds of potatoes at twice, gives 
sixty to seventy quarts of good brandy. The resi- 
due of the distillation is used as food for stock. 
To extract potash from potatoe tops. 

It is necessai-y to cut off the potatoe tops the mo- 
ment that the flowers begin to fall, as that is the 
period of their greatest vigour; they must be cut 
off at four or five inches from the ground, with a 
very sharp knife. Fresh sprouts spring, which 
will not only answer all the purposes of conduct- 
ing the roots to maturity, but tend to an increase of 
their volume, as they, (the sprouts) demand less 



144 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



nourishment than the old top. The tops may be 
sufiered to remain on the ground where cut; in 8 
or 10 days the ' are sufficiently dry without turn- 
ing, and may be carted, either home»>or to a cor- 
ner of the field, where a hole is to be dug in the 
earth, about 5 feet square and 2 feet deep, (the 
combustion would be too rapid, and the ashes cool 
too quick, and thereby diminish the quantity of al- 
kali were they burnt in the open air). The ashes 
must be kept red-hot as long as possible: when the 
fire is strong, tops that are only imperfectly dried 
may be thrown in, and even green ones will then 
burn well enough. 

Tlie aslies extracted from the hole must be put 
in a vessel, and boiling water be poured upon it, 
as then the water must be evaporated: for these 
two operations potato tops may be used alone as 
firing in the furnace, and the ashes collected. 
There remains, after the evaporation, a dry saline 
reddish substance, known in commerce un<!er the 
name of salin; the more the ashes are boiled, the 
greyer and more valuable the salin becomes. 

The salin must then be calcined in a very hot 
oven, until the whole mass presents an uniform 
reddish brown. In cooling it remains diy, and in 
fragments — blueish within, and white on the sur- 
face; in which state it takes the name of potass. 

The ashes, exhausted of their alkaline principle, 
afford excellent manure for land intended to be 
planted with potatoes. 

To make brandy from beet root. 
Fertile preparation of brandy, the water used in 
the first boiling of the roots, is boiled again, and 
poured out on the residuum from the first expres- 
sion of the pounded roots; this must stand for a 
day or two, after which it is expressed, and the re- 
maining dry pulp serves as a good food for cattle. 
The juice obtained in this way is mixed with the 
waste parts of the syrup and the mucilage which 
remains after tlie expression of the saccharine crys- 
tals, and all boiled together till half of it is evapo- 
rated. The liquor is then poured into a coop ex- 
posed to a temperature of 45 deg. Fahrenheit, and 
cooled to 65 deg. Having added a proportionate 
quantity of yeast, it is left to ferment, and in 
3 or 4 days after the distillation may be undertaken. 
y'o obtain sugar from beet root. 
The beet roots best calculated for the extraction 
of sugar, ai'e those which have a soft flesh, whitish 
towards the edges and not growing above ground 
Aftei being cleaned, they are boiled, cut into pieces 
and pounded in a v/oo<len trough with wooden 
stampers, and afterwards pressed. The juice thus 
obtained is immediately put into a polished copper 
kettle and simmered, during which time the scum 
must continually be taken off. To one hundred 
quarts of this juice add two ounces or less of slack- 
ened lime, diluted so as to have the appearance of 
milk, and continue the boiling till the juice is thick- 
ened to the half of it. Having strained it through 
a woollen cloth, thicken it to the consistency of a 
syrup, which afterwards is put into glass, stone, or 
wooden vessels. These being placed ntar a mo- 
derate fire, saccharine crystals appear, which being 
freed by expression frum tl»j mucilaginous juice, a 
very good raw su";ar is obtained. 

To make proof spirit. 
The London College mentions no proportions, 
but requires the specific gi-avity of .930; the Dub- 
lin advises the mixture of four nieasures of spirit 
with three of water, and the Edinburgh College or- 
ders equal measures of their alcohol and water, the 
specific gravity of which mixture they quote as 
.935. The chemists in London are in the habit of 
making their proof spirit, by taking half spirit of 
wine and half water, whenever it is required, as 
they seldom or never keep it in that state. 



To make tincture of snli of tartar. 

Melt 6 oz. of salt of tartar in a crucible; pcwder 
it while hot, and immediately pour upon the pow- 
der a quart of spirit of wine, and digest it for seve- 
ral days. 

Tincture of antimony. 

Take of crude antimony, 1 oz.; salt of tartar, and 
saltpetre, eacli 2 oz. Mix and throw them into a 
red hot crucible; when melted, pour them out into 
an ii'on mortar, powder the mass, while hot, and 
before it grows cold put it into a bottle with a suffi- 
cient quantity of spirit of wine. 

This and the preceding are to be considered as 
alcohol made without distillation, but they receive 
an alkaline taint, which renders them impure. 

All these spirits are stimulants, but more em- 
ployed as luxuries than medicines 



LIQL^EURS. 

To make ratafia d''a%gelique. 
Take of angelica seeds, 1 drachm; stalks of an- 
gelica, bitter almonds, blanched, each 4oz. ; proof 
spirit, 12 pints; white sugar, 2 lbs. Digest, strain, 
and filter. 

Anisette de Bourdeaiix. 
Take of sugar, 9 oz. ; oil of aniseed, 6 drops. 
Rub them together, and add by degrees, spirit of 
wine, 2 pints; water, 4 pints. Filter. 

To make real creine des barbades. 
Take 2 dozen middling sized lemons; 6 large 
citrons; loaf sugar, 28 lbs. ; fresh balm leaves, ^ lb. ; 
spirit of wine, 2^ gallons; water 3^ ditto. This will 
produce about 7 gallons, full measure. Cut the 
lemons and citrons in thin slices, and put them into 
a cask; pour upon them the spirit of wine, bung 
down close, and let it stand ten days or a fortnight, 
then break the sugar, and boil it for half an hour 
in the three gallons and a half of water, skimming 
it frequently; then chop the balm-leaves, put them 
into a large pan, and pour upon them the boiling 
liquor, and let it stand till quite cold; then strain 
it through a lawn sieve, and put it to the spiritSj 
&c. in the cask; bung down close, and in a fort- 
night draw it off; strain it through a jelly bag, and 
let it remain to fine; then bottle it. 
Ea%t de barbades. 
Take of fresh orange peel, 1 oz. ; fresh lemon- 
peel, 4 oz.; cloves, ^ drachm; coriander, 1 do.; 
proof spirit, 4 pints. Distil in a bath heat and add 
white sugar in powder. 

To make ratafia de cafe. 
Take of roasted coffee, ground, I lb.; proof spi- 
rit, 1 gallon; sugar, 20 oz. Digest for a week. 
Hatafia de cassis. 
Take of ripe black currants, 6 lbs.; cloves, ^ 
drachm; cinnamon, 1 ditto; proof spirit, 18 pints; 
sugar, Sg lbs. Digest for a fortnight. 
Hatafia des cerises. 
Take of morello cherries, with their kernels, 
braised, 8 lbs; proof spirit, 8 pints. Digest for a 
month, strain with expression, and then add l^lbs. 
of sugar. 

Hatafia de chocolat. 
Take of Caracca cocoa nuts, roasted, 1 lb. ; West 
India ditto, roasted | lb.; proof spirit, 1 gallon. 
Digest for a fortnight, strain, and then add sugar, 
1^ lbs.; tincture of vanilla, 30 drops. 
Eau divine. 
Take of spirit of wine, 1 gallon; essence of le- 
mons, and essence of bergaraot, each 1 drachm: 
Distil in a bath heat: add sugar 4 lbs. dissolved in 
2 gallons of pure witer; and, lastly, orange flower 
water, 5 oz. 

Elephant's milk. 
Take of benjamin, 2 oz.; spirit of wine, 1 pint 



DISTILLATION. 



145 



^oiling water, 2^ pints. When cold, strain; and 
iKld sugar, 1^ lbs. 

Ratafia de grenoble. 
Take of small wild black cherries, with their 
kernels, bruised, 12 lbs.; proof spirit, 6 gallons. 
Digest for a month, strain, and then add 12 lbs. of 
sugar. A little citron peel may also be added at 
pleasure. 

Marasquin de groseilles. 
Take of gooseberries, quite ripe, 102 lbs. black 
cherry leaves, 12 lbs. 13ruise and ferment; distil 
and rectify the spirit. To each pint of this spirit 
add as much distilled water, and sugar, 1 lb. 
Iluile de Venus. 
Take of flowers of the wild carrot, picked, 6 oz. 
— spirit of wine, 10 pints. Distil in a bath heat. 
To the spirit add as much syrup of capillaire; it 
may be coloured with cochineal. 
Liquodilla. 
Take the thin peel of six oranges and 6 lemons, 
steep thera in a gallon of brandy or rum, close 
stopped, for two or three days; then take 6 qiiartj 
of water, and 3 lbs. of loaf sugar clarified with the 
whites ol three eggs. Let it boil a quarter of an 
hour, then stram it through a fine sieve, and let it 
stand till cold; strain the brandy from the peels, 
and add the juice of 5 oranges and 7 lemons to each 
gallon. Keep it close stopped up six weeks, then 
bottle it. 

Fresh marasquin, a new Uque^ir. 
Advantage has not hitherto been taken of the 
fruit of the St Lucian tree, [primus mahaleb, Lin. ) 
This small black fruit is of a very disagreeable 
taste, but it may produce an excellent liqueur. JVl. 
Cadet de Vaux, recognizing in this little cherry 
an aromatic savour, thought it would serve to make 
a kind of kirschwasser. In effect, it ferments and 
furnishes by distillation a Prussic alcohol; but by 
putting it first to infuse in brandy for some time, 
there is obtained, by distillation in a bath heat, a 
spirit of a very agreeable aromatic, and which, pro- 
perly sweetened, forms a liqueur comparable to the 
best marasquin of Italy. It is necessary to braise 
the fruit and the nuts before infusing them in bran- 
dy. The spirit must also be brought back to 21 
degrees before sweetening it. Then add nearly 12 
oz. of sugar to every quart of liqueur. — Journal de 
P/iarmacie, 1821. 

Ratafia de brou de noix. 
Take of young walnuts, whose shells are not yet 
hardened, in number, 60, — brandy, 4 pints, — sugar, 
12 oz. — mace, cinnamon, and cloves, each 15 gr. 
Digest for 2 or .3 months, press out the liquor, fil- 
ter, and keep it for 2 or 3 years. 

Ratafia de noyeaii. 
Take of peach or apricot kernels, with their 
shells bruised, in number, 120, proof spirit, 4 pints, 
sugar, 10 oz. Some reduce the spirit of wine to 
proof with the juice of apricots or peaches, to make 
this liqueur. 

Creme de noyeau de JMartinique. 
Take 20 lbs. of loaf sugar, — 3 gallons of spirit 
of wine, — 3 pints of orange flower water,->l^ lb. 
of bitter almonds — 2 drachms of essence of lemon, 
and 4^ gallons of water. The produce will exceed 
8 gallons. 

Put 2 lbs. of the loaf sugar into a jug or can, 
pour upon it the essence of lemon, and 1 quart of 
the spirit of wine; stir it till the sugar is dissolved, 
and the essence completely incorporated. Bruise 
the almnnds, and put them into a 4 gallon stone 
oottle or cask, add the remainder of the spirit of 
wine, and the mixture from the jug or can: let it 
stand a week or ten days, shaking it frequently. 
Then add the remainder of the sugar, and boil it 
in the 4^ gallons of water, for three quarters of an 
txvir, taking oft" the scum as it rises. When cold, 



pat it in a cask; add the spirit, almonds, &c. from 
the stone bottle; and lastly, the orange flower wa- 
ter. Bung it down close, and let it stand three 
weeks or a month; then strain it tbrough a jelh' 
bag, and when fine bottle it off. When the pink 
is wanted, add cochineal, in powder, at the rate ot 
half a drachm, or two scruples, to a quart. 
Ratafia d'ecorces d''oranges. 
Take of fresh peel of Seville oranges, 4 oz. — 
proof spirit, 1 gallon, — sugar, 1 lb. Digest for 6 
hours. 

Ratafia defieurs d'oranges. 
Take of fresh flowers of orange-tree, 2 lbs. 
proof spirit, 1 gallon, — sugar, 1^ lbs. Digest for fi 
hours. 

Creme d'orange of superior flavour. 
Take 3 dozen middling sized oranges, orange 
flower water, 2 quarts, loaf sugar, 18 lbs. spirit of 
wine, 2 gallons, tincture of saffron, 1^ oz. water, 
4^ gallons. This will produce 7^ gallons. 

Cut the oranges in slices, put them into a cask, 
add the spirit and orange flower water, let it stand 
a fortniglit, then boil the sugar in tlie water for 
half an hour, pour it out, and let it stand till cold, 
then add it to the mixture in the cask, and put in 
the tincture of saffron. Let it remain a fortnight 
longer; then strain, and proceed as directed in the 
receipt for cremes de Barbades, and a very fine 
cordial will be produced. 

Fine brandy shrub. 
Take 8 oz. of citric acid, — 1 gallon of porter, — 
3 gallons of raisin wine, — 2 quarts of orange flower 
water, — 7 gallons of good brandy, — 5 ditto of water. 
This will produce 16 gallons. First, dissolve the 
citric acid in the water, then add to it the brandy; 
next, mix the raisin wine, porter, and orange flower 
water together; and lastly, mix tiie whole: and in 
a week or ten days, it will be ready for drinking, 
and of a very mellow flavour. 
Rum shnib. 
Leave out the brandy and porter, and add 1 gal- 
lon more raisin wine, 6 lbs. of honey, and 10 gal- 
lons of good flavoured rum. 

Currant shrub. 
Take white currants, when quite ripe, pick them 
off the stalks, and bruise them; strain out the juice 
through a cloth, and to two quarts of the juice put 
2 lbs. of loaf sugar; when it is dissolved add to it a 
gallon of rum, tlien strain it through a flannel bag 
that will keep in the jelly, and it will run off clear; 
then bottle it for use. 

Usquebaugh. 
Usquebaugh is a strong compound liquor, chiefly 
taken by way of dram; it is made in the liighest 
perfection at Drogheda in Ireland. The following 
are the ingredients, and the proportions in which 
they are to be used. 

Take of best brandy, 1 gallon, — raisins, stoned, 
1 lb. — cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg, and cardamoms, 
each 1 oz. crushed in a mortar, — saft'ron, half an 
ounce, — rind of 1 Seville orange, and brown sugar 
candy, 1 lb. Shake these well every day, for at 
least 14 days, and it will, at the expiration of that 
time, be ready to l>e fined for use. 

Another method. — Take of nutmegs^ cloves, and 
cinnamon, each 2 ounces; of the seeds of anise, cara- 
way, and coriander, each 4 ounces; liquorice root, 
sliced, half a pound; bruise the seeds and spices, 
and put them together with the liquorice, into the 
st^ill, with 11 gallons of proof spirit, and 2 gallons 
of water; distil with a pretty brisk fire. As soon 
as the still begins to work, fasten to the nozel of 
the worm 2 ounces of English saffron, tied up in a 
cloth, that the liquor may run througli it, and ex- 
tract all its tincture. When the operation is finish- 
ed, sweeten with fine sugar. — This li(jueur may be 
much improved by the following additions; Digest 



146 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



4 pounds of stoned raisins, 3 pounds of dates, and 
2 poiiiids of sliced liquorice root, in 2 gallons of 
water, for 12 hours. When the liquor is strained 
off, and has dpoosited all sediment, decant it gently 
into the vessel containing the usquebaugh. 
Ratafia a la violette. 
Take of Florentine orris root, 2 dr. — archel, 1 
oz. — spirit of wiue, 4 pints. Digest, strain, and 
add sugar, 4 lbs. — Liqueurs are also made by ad- 
ding Hungary-water, honey-water, eau de Cologne, 
and several other spirits, to an equal quantity of 
simple syrup, or common capillaire. 



COMPOUND SPIRITS, OR CORDIALS. 

General Mules. 

The perfection of this grand branch of distillery 
depends upon the observation of the following ge- 
neral rules, which are easy to be observed and 
practised: — 1. l"he artist must always be careful to 
use a well cleansed spirit, or one freed from its 
own essential oil. For as a compound cordial is 
nothing more than a spirit impregnated with the 
essential oil of the ingredients, it is necessary that 
the spirit should have deposited its own. 2. Let 
the time of previous digestion be proportioned to 
the tenacity of the ingredients, or the ponderosity 
of their oil. 3. Let the strength of the iire be pro- 
portioned to the ponderosity of the oil intended to 
(•je raised with the spirit. 4. Let a due proportion 
of the finest parts of the essential oil be united with 
the spirit; the grosser and less fragrant parts of the 
oil not giving the spirit so agreeable a flavour, and 
at the same time rendering it thick and unsightly. 
This may in a great measure be effected by leaving 
out the feints, and making up to proof with fine 
soft water in their stead. 

A cai'eful observation of these four niles will 
render this extensive part of distillation far more 
perfect than it is at present. Nor will there be 
any occasion for the use of burnt alum, while of 
eggs, isinglass, Kc. to fine down the cordial waters, 
for they will presently be fine, sweet, and plea- 
sant. 

To make aniseed cordial. 

Take of aniseed, bruised, 2 lbs. — proof spirit, 
12^ gallons, — water, 1 gallon. Draw off 10 gallons 
with a moderate lire. This water should never be 
reduced below proof: because the large quantity of 
oil with wLich it is impregnated, will render the 
goods milky and foul, when brought down below 
proof. 15ut if there is a necessity for doing this, 
their transparency may be restored by filtration. 
Ciruiamon cordial. 

Take 2 pennyweights of oil of cassia lignea, dis- 
solved with sugar and spirit of wine; \\ gallons, at 
1 in 6, — cardamom seeds, husked, I ounce, — or- 
ange and lemon peel dried, of each, 1 oz. Fine 
with ^ a pint of alum water; sweeten with loaf su- 
gar, not exceeding 2 lbs. and make up 2 gallons 
measure with the water in which the s\igar is dis- 
■jolved. Colour with burnt sugar. 

Strong cinnamon cordial. 

Take 8 pounds of fine cinnamon, bruised, — 17 
gallons of clear rectified spirit, and 2 gallons of 
water. Put them into the still, and digest them 
twenty-four hours with a gentle heat; after which, 
draw off sixteen gallons by a pretty strong heat. 
Caraway cordial. 

For 20 gallons. Take IJ ounces of oil of cara- 
way, 20 drops of cassia-lignea oil, 5 drops of es- 
sence of orange-peel, 5 drops of tne essence of le- 
mon, 13 gallons of spirits, one in five, and 8 lbs. of 
loaf sugar. Make it up and fine it down. 
Cedrat cordial. 

The cedrat is a species of citrrm, and very high- 



ly esteemed in Italy, where it grows naturally. 
The fruit is difficult to be procured in this coun- 
try; but, as the essential oil is often imported from 
Italy, it maybe made with it as follows: Take of 
the finest loaf-sugar, powdered, ^ lb. Put it into 
a glass mortar, with 120 drops of the essence of ce- 
drat; rub them together with a glass pestle, and 
put them into a glass alembic, with a gallon of fine 
proof spirit, and a quart of water. Place the alem- 
bic in a bath heat, and draw off one gallon, or till 
the feints begin to rise ; then dulcify with fine su- 
gar. This is considered the finest cordial yet 
known; it will therefore be necessary to be parti- 
cularly careful that the spirit is perfectly clean, 
and, as much as possible, free from any flavour ot 
its own. 

Citron cordial. 

Take of dry yellow rinds of citrons, 3 lbs. 
orange-peel, 2 lbs. nutmegs, bruised, J lb. proof 
spirit, 10§ gallons, water, 1 gallon. Digest with a 
gentle heat; then draw off 10 gallons in a bath heat; 
and dulcify with fine sugar. 

Clove cordial. 

Take of cloves, bruised, 4 lbs. pimento, or all- 
spice, ^ lb. proof spirit, 16 gallons. Digest the 
mixture 12 hours in a gentle heat, and then dra\v 
off 15 gallons with a pretty brisk fire. The water 
may be coloured red, either by a strong tincture 
of cochineal, alkanet, or corn poppy-flowers. It 
may be dulcified at pleasure with double refined 
sugar. 

Coriander cordial. 

For 3 gallons. Take 7 quarts of spirits, 2 lbs. 
of coriander seed, I oz. of caraway seed, 6 drops 
of the oil of orange, and 2 lbs of sugar. Fill up 
with water. The coriander seed must be bruised 
and steeped in the spirits for ten or twelve daj's, 
and well stirred two or three times a day. Fine it 
the same as gin. 

Eaii de bigarade. 

Take the outer or yellow part of the peels of 14 
bigarades (a kind of orange), ^ oz. of nutmegs, ^ 
oz. of mace, 1 gallon of fine proof spirit, and 2 
quarts of water. Digest all these together two 
days in a close vessel; after which, draw off a gal- 
lon witli a gentle fire, and dulcify with fine sugar. 
Gold cordial. 

Take of the roots of angelica, sliced, 4 lbs. rai- 
sins, stoned, 2 lbs. coriander seeds, -^ lb. cara- 
way seeds and cinnamon, each -^ lb. cloves, 2 oz. 
figs and liquorice root, sliced, each, 1 lb. proof 
spirit, 11 galloLS, water 2 gallons. Digest two 
days; and draw oft' by a gentle heat, till the feints 
begin to rise; hanging in a piece of linen, fastened 
to the mouth of the worm, an ounce of English saf- 
fron. Then dissolve 8 lbs. of sugar in three quarts 
of rose-water, and add to it the distilled liquor. 

The above cordial derives its name from a quan- 
tity of leaf gold being formerly added to it; but this 
is now generally disused 

Jjovage cordiaL 

For 20 gallons. Take of the fresh roots ■pf lov- 
age, valerian, celery, and sweet fennel, each 4oz. 
essential oil of caraway and savin, each 1 ounce, 
spirit of wine, 1 pint, proof spirit, 12 gallons, loaf- 
sugar, 12 lbs. Steep the roots and seeds in the 
spirits for 14 days; then dissolve the oils in the 
spirit of wine, and add them to the undulcified cor- 
dial drawn oft' from the other ingredients; dissolve 
the sugar in the water for making up, and fine, if 
necessary, with alum. 

Lemon cordial. 

Take of dried lemon-peel, 4 lbs. proof spirit, 
10^ gallons, water, I gallon. Draw off ten gallons 
by a gentle fire, and dulcify with fine sugar. 
JVectar. 

For 20 gallons. Take 1 5 gallons of red ratafia 



DISTILLATION. 



147 



I OE. of cassia-oil, and an equal quantity of the oil 
of caraway seeds. Dissolve in half a pint of spirit 
of wine, and make up with orange wine, so as to 
fill up the cask. Sweeten, if wanted, by adding a 
small lump of sugar in the glass. 
JVoyeau. 
Take l^ gallons of French brandy, 1 in 5, 6 oz. 
of the best French prunes, 2 oz. of celery, 3 oz. of j 
the kernels of apricots, nectarines, and peaches, 
and 1 oz. of bitter almonds, all gently bruised, es- 
sence of orange-peel, and essence of lemon-peel, 
of each 2 penny-weights, ^ a pound of loaf-sugar. 
Let the whole stand ten days or a fortnight; then 
draw off, and add to the clear noyeau as much rose 
■water as will make it up to two gallons. 
Ormige cordial. 
Take of the j'ellow part of fresh orange-peel, 5 
lbs. proof spirit, lOJ gallons, water, 2 gallons. 
Draw off ten gallons with a gentle fire. 
Peppermint cordial. 
For twenty gallons. Take 13 gallons of recti- 
fied spirits, one in five under hydrometer proof, 12 
lbs. of loaf sugar, 1 pint of spirit of wine, that will 
fire gunpowder, 15 pennyweights troy of oil of 
peppermint, water, as much as will fill up the cask, 
which should be set up on end, after the whole has 
been well roused, and a cock for drawing off plac- 
ed in it. 

Hatqfia. 
This is a liquor prepared from different kinds 
of fruits, and is of different colours according to 
the fruits made use of. These fruits should be ga- 
thered when in their greatest perfection, and the 
largest and most beautiful of them chosen for the 
purpose. The following is the method of making 
red ratafia, fine and soft: Take of the black-heart 
cherries, 24 lbs. black cherries, 4 lbs. raspberries 
and strawberries, each, 3 lbs. Pick the fruit from 
their stalks, and bruise them, in which state let 
them continue 12 hours; then press out the juice; 
and to every pint of it, add J lb. of sugar. When 
the sugar is dissolved, run the whole through the 
filtering bag and add to it three quarts of proof 
spirit. Then take of cinnamon, 4 oz. mace, 1 oz. 
and cloves, 2 drachms. Bruise these spices, put 
them into an alembic with a gallon of proof spirit 
and two quarts of water, and draw off a gallon with 
a brisk fii'e. Add as much of this spicy spirit to 
tlie ratafia as will render it agreeable: about one- 
fourth is the usual proportion. 

Dry or sharp ratajia. 
Take of cherries and gooseberries, each 30 lbs. 
mulberries, 7 lbs. raspberries, 10 lbs. Pick all 
these fruits clean from their stalks, &c. bruise 
them, and let them stand twelve hours; but do not 
suffer them to ferment. Press out the juice, and 
to every pint add three ounces of sugar. When 
the sugar is dissolved, run it through the filtering 
bag, and to eveiy five pints of liquor add four pints 
of proof spirit; together with the same proportion 
of spirit drawn from spices. 

Common ratajia. 
Take of nutmegs, 8 oz. bitter almonds, 10 lbs. 
Lisbon sugar, 8 lbs. ambergris, 10 grains. Infuse 
these ingi-edients three days in 10 gallons of proof 
spirit, and filter it through a flannel bag for use. 
The nutmegs and bitter almonds must be bruised, 
and the ambergris rubbed with the Lisbon sugar in 
a mai'ble mortar, before they are infused in the 
spirit. 

Cherry brandy. 
One of the best and most common ways of mak- 
ing cheny brandy, is to put the oheiTies (being first 
»lean picked from the stalks) into a vessel, till it 
»e about half full; then fill up with rectified mo- 
lasses brandy, which is generally used for this com- 
eound, and when they have been infused sixteen or 



eighteen days, draw off the liquor by degrees, as 
wanted: when drawn off fill the vessel a second 
time nearly to the top, let it stand about a month, 
and then draw it oft' as there is occasion. The 
same chen-ies may be used a third time by cover- 
ing them with over-proof brandy, and letting it in- 
fuse for six or seven weeks; when drawn off for 
use, as much water must be added as the brandy 
was over-proof, and the cherries must be after- 
wards pressed as long as any liquor remains in 
them, before being cast away. 

When drawn off the second time, the liquor will 
be somewhat inferior to the first, when more sugar, 
with half an ounce of cinnamon and cloves beaten, 
may be added to twenty gallons of it; but there 
should only be half the quantity of cinnamon and 
cloves in each twenty gallons of the first infusion. 

Another inethod. — Take 72 pounds of chen-ies, 
half red and half black — mash or squeeze them to 
pieces with the hands, and add to them three gal- 
lons of brandy, letting them steep for 24 hours — 
then put the mashed cherries and liquor into a 
canvas bag a little at a time, and press it as long as 
it will run. Sweeten it with loaf sugar, and let it 
stand a month — then bottle it off, putting a lump 
of loaf sugar into every bottle. 

Another. — To every four quarts of brandy, put 
four pounds of red cherries, two pounds of black, 
one quart of raspberries, with a few cloves, a stick 
of cinnamon, and a little orange peel; let these 
stand a month close stopped; then bottle it off, put- 
ting a lump of loaf sugar into every bottle. 
Slack cherry brandy. 

Stone eight pounds of black cherries, and put on 
them a gallon of brandy. Bruise the stones in a 
mortar, and then add them to the brandy. Cover 
them close, and let tliera stand a month or six 
weeks. Then pom' it clear from the sediment, and 
bottle it. Morello cherries, managed in this man- 
ner, make a fine rich cordial. 

Caratvay brandy. 

Steep an ounce of caraway seeds, and six ounce* 
of loaf sugar, in a quart of brandy; let it stand nine 
days, and then draw it off. 

hemon brandy. 

Put five quarts of water to one gallon of brandy, 
take two dozen of lemons, two pounds of the best 
sugar, and three pints of milk. Pare the lemons 
very thin, and lay the peel to steep in the brandy 
twe-'lve hours. Squeeze the lemons upon the sugar, 
then put the water to it, and mix all the ingredients 
together. Boil the milk, and pour it in boiling. 
Let it stand 24 hours and then strain it. 
Orange brandy. 

Put the chips of eighteen Seville oranges in three 
quarts of brandy, and let them steep a fortnight in 
a stone-bottle close stopped. Boil two quarts of 
spring-water, with a pound and a half of the finest 
sugar, nearly an hour very gently. Clarify the 
water and sugar with the white of an egg, then 
strain it through a jelly-bag, and boil it nearly half 
away. When it is cold, strain the brandy into the 
syrup. 

Raspberry brandy. 

Take a pint of water and two quarts of brandy, 
and put them into a pitcher large enough to hold 
them and four pints (A raspberries. Put in half a 
pound of loaf sugar, and let it remain for a wc^k 
close covered. Then take a piece of flannel, witli 
a piece of hoUand over it, and let it run through 
by degrees. It may be racked into other bottles a 
week after, and then it will be perfectly fine. 

Another method. — Raspberry brar.dy is infused 
nearly after the same manner as chen-y brandy, 
and drawn off with about the same addition of 
brandy to what is di-awn off from the first, second, 
and tliird infusion, and dulcified accordingly, first 



118 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



making it of a bright deep colour; omitting cinna- 
mon and cloves in the first, f)Ut not in the second 
and third infusion. The second infusion will be 
somewhat paler than the first, and must be height- 
ened in colour, by adding cherry brandy about a 
quart, with ten or more gallons of raspberry brandy; 
and the third infusion will require more cherry 
brandy to colour it. It may be flavoured with the 
juice of the elder berry. 

Whiskey cordial. 
Take of cinnamon, ginger, and coriander seed, 
each 3 oz. mace, cloves, and cubebs, each, 1| oz. 
Add 11 gallons of proof spirit, anJ 2 gallons of 
water, and distil; now tie up 5 oz. of .English saf- 
fron, raisins (stoned) 4^- lbs. dates, 3 do. liquorice 
root, 2 do. Let these stand 12 hours in 2 gallons 
of water, strain, and add it to the above. Dulcify 
the whole with fine sugar. 



ESSENTIAL AND OTHER OILS. 

The oils are obtained by distillation, with a suf- 
ficient quantity of water to prevent the articles 
from adhering to the still, and the oil and water 
acquiring a burnt taste; ttiey are all stimulant, in 
doses of from 2 to 10 drops upon sugar. 
Oil of aniseed. 
One pound of the seeds will yield 2 drachms. 
It is congealed, except in warm weather; this oil 
is carminative, and poisonous to pigeons, if rubbed 
OQ their bills or head. 

Cajeput oil. 
This is obtained from the leaves, which are im- 
ported from the East Indies, generally in large 
copper flasks; it is cooler than that of peppermint, 
but smells of turpentine. It is used externally in 
rheumatism. 

Oil of cara-soay. 
This is obtained from the seeds; it is carmina- 
tive: 2 pounds will yield more than 1 oun^e, and 
1 cwt. 83 ounces. 

Oil of cloves. 
This is obtained from the spice of that name; it 
is very heavy, acrimonious, and supposed to con- 
tain some part of the resin of the clove. One pound 
of cloves will ^ <eld from IJ to 2^ troy oz.: 7^ pounds 
Avill yield 1 pound of oil. It is also expressed from 
the cloves when ripe. Muller, by digesting half 
an oz. of cloves in ether, and then mixing it with 
water, obtained 7 scruples of oil, greenish yellow, 
swimming upon water. Oil of cloves is imported 
from the spice islands; it is stimulant, and added 
to purgative pills to prevent griping; it is exter- 
nally applied to aching teech. 

Oil of cassia. 
This is the common oil of cinnamon, and is ob- 
tained from the bark of inferior cinnamon, imported 
under the name of cassia. One pound will yield 
from 1 to 1| drachms. It is stimulant and stoma- 
chic. Ant/tlier oil is obtained from cassia buds. 
Oil of chamomile. 
This is obtained trom the flowers, and is sto- 
machic. One pound will yield a drachm; S2 
pounds will yield from 13 to 18 drachms. It is of 
a fine blue, even if distilled in glass vessels. 
Oil of cinnamon. 
This is obtained from the fresh bark which is 
imported from Ceylon. De Gui'jnes says, the 
cinnamon of Cochin China is so full of essential 
oil, that it may be pressed out by the fingers. 
EiSsence ofcedvat. 
This is obtained fi'om the llowers of the citron 
tree; it is amber-coloured and slightly fragrant; 60 
pounds will yield 1 ounce. It is ah.o obtained from 
the yellow part of citron peei; it is colourless, very 
lliin, and fragrant. The second oil is obtained by I 



the distillation of the yellow part of citron peel, 
and is greenish; 100 citrons will yield I ounce of 
the white essence, and half an ounce of this. It is 
likewise obtained from the yellow part of citron 
peel by expression between two glass plates. Also, 
from the cake left on squeezing citron peel, by 
distillacion with water. It is thick. 

Common essence ofcedrat. 
This is obtained from the fseces left in the casks 
of citron juice; clear, fragrant, greenish; 50 pounds 
of fjeces will yield, by distillation, 3 pounds of es- 
sence. 

Foreign oil of lavender. 
This is the true oil of spike, aud is obtained 
from the flowers and seeds of broad-leaved laven- 
der, and more commonly those of French lavender, 
stcBchas, with a quick fire. It is sweet scented, 
but the oi! of the narrow-leaved lavender, or Eng- 
lish oil, is by far the finest. 

Ussence of lavender. 
The oil of the flowers of lavender is rendered 
more delicate in its odour by age; but to prevent 
its becoming glutinous by keeping, which it is very 
apt to do, drav.' it over in a water bath, with a small 
quantity of alcohol, which is termed the essence, 
and which, after being kept closely corked for 
about seven years, possesses a peculiarly fine deli- 
cate odour of lavender, entirely free from empy- 
reuma. 

Oil ofjnint. 
Obtained from the dried plant; 6 pounds of fresh 
leaves will yield 3A drachms; and 4 lbs. dried will 
yield 1 1-2 ounce. It is stimulant, carminative, 
and antispasmodic. 

Essence ofneroli. 
Obtained from the flowers of the orange tree; 6 
cwt. of flowers will yield only 1 ounce of oil. 
Another essence is obtained from orange peel, and 
is veiy fragrant. A third essence is obtained from 
unripe oranges, and is of a gold colour. 
Oil of nutmegs. 
Obtained from that spice; it is liquid, and of a 
pale yellow; a sebaceous insipid matter swims upon 
the water in the still. 

Oil of peppermint. 
Obtained from the dried plant; 4 lbs. of the fresh 
herb will yield 3 drachms. In general it requires 
rectification to render it bright and fine. It is 
stimulant and carminative. 

Oil of pennyroyal. 
Obtained from the herb when in flower; 3 pounds 
will yield 6 drachms: emmenagogue. 
Oil of pimento. 
Obtained from allspice: one ounce will yield 30 
drops. It is stimulant. 

Oil of rhodium. 
Obtained from the true Ugnvm rhodium: 80 
pounds will yield 9 drachms, and in very resinous 
old wood 80 pounds will yield 2 ounces. It is 
light yellowish, but grows red by keeping. Ano- 
ther oil is obtained from the root of rose wort, 
rhodiola rosea; it is yellowish, and has the smell 
and taste of that from the true lignum rhodium: l 
pound will yield a drachm. 

'I'he true Itiga balsam. 
Obtained from the shoots of the Aphernousli 
pine, pimts cembra, previously bruised and macer- 
ated for a montti in water. It is pellucid, very 
liquid, whitish, and has the smell and taste of oil oi 
juniper. 

Butter of roses. 
Obtained from the flowers of damask roses, 
white, solid, separating slowly from the rose wa- 
ter: it has liltle scent of its own, and is used to di- 
lute the scent of muak, civet, and ambergris: 1 
cwt. of roses will yield from 1-^ ounce to a» 
ounce. 



DISTILLATION. 



149 



Oil of rosemary. 
Obtained from the flowering tops; it is sweet- 
scented: 1 cwt. will yield Bounces: 1 pound of dry 
leaves will yield from 1 to 3 urai-hms: 70 pounds 
of fresh leaves will yield 5 ounces. 
Oil of me. 
Obtained from the dried plant; it is carminative, 
and antispasmodic: 10 pounds of leaves will yield 
from 2 to 4 drachms; 4 pounds in flower will yield 
I deachm; and 60 pounds will yield '2 1-2 ounces; 
72 pounds, with the seeds, will yield 3 ounces. 
Oil of sassafras. 
Obtained from the sassafras root; 24 pounds 
will yield 9 ounces; 30 pounds will yield 7 ounces 
and one drachm; and six pounds will yield two 
ounces. 

Oil of thyme. 
Obtained from the plant; 2 cwt. fresh will yield 
5^ ounces; 3 1-2 pounds, dried, will yield 1-2 a 
drachm. It is stimulant and caustic; and used in 
tooth-ache, applied to the tooth. 
Ou of-ivormtvood. 
Obtained from the herb; stomachic: 25 pounds 
of green wormwood will yield from G to 10 drachms 
of oil; 4 pounds of dry will yield one ounce, and 
18 pounds Only 1 1-2 troy ounces. 
Birch oil. 
Obtained by distilling 20 parts of birch hark, and 

1 of ledum palustre, crammed in layers into an 
earthen pot, with a handful of tripoli between each 
layer; the mouth of the jtot is closed with a perfo- 
rateil oak pl'ig, and being inverted, it is luted to 
the mouth of another pot sunk in the ground; the 
pot being then s inounded with iire, a brown em- 
pyreumatic oil di3ti}!3 ^>er descens^tm into the lower 
jar: an 8 gallon pot, properly filled, yields about 

2 lbs. or 2 1-2 lbs. of oil. In Siberia, it is prepar- 
ed without the ledum. This oil is liquid when fresh, 
but grows thick in time. It is used in Russia for 
currying leather, to which it gives a very peculiar 
smell, much disliked by insects. 

Oil of gum-benzoin. 

Obtained by distilling the residuum left after 
making flowers of benjamin, by a strong fire. It is 
used instead of birch oil, in making an imitation 
of Russia leather. 

Oil of turpentine. 

Distilled, in Europe, from common turpentine, 
with the addition of about 6 times as much water; 
but in America, where the operation is carried on 
upon a very large scale, no water is added, and its 
accidental presence is even dreaded, lest it should 
produce a disruption of the stilling appai'atus. 
To rectify oil of turpentine. 

Pour three parts of turpentine into a glass retort, 
capable of containing double thequant.ty of matter 
suljjeoted to the experiment. Place this retort on 
a sand bath; and having adapted to it a receiver 5 
or 6 times as large, cement with paste made of 
flour aud water, some bands of paper over the place 
■where the two vessels are joined. If the receiver 
is not tubulated, make a small hole with a pin in 
the bands of cemented paper, to leave a free com- 
munication between the exterior and interior of 
the receiver; then place over the retort a dome of 
baked earth, and maintain the fire in such a man- 
ner, as to make the essence and the water boii. 

The receiver will become filled with abundance 
of vapours, composed of water and eihereous es- 
sence, which will condense the more readily if all 
the I'adiatlng heat of the fui'nace be intercepted by a 
plate of copper, or piece of board placed between 
the furnace and the receiver. When the mass of 
oil, subjected to experiment, has decreased nearly 
two thirds, the distillation must be stopped. Then 
leave the product at rest to facilitate tiie separation 
of the ethereous oil, which is afterwards sei)araled il 



from the water, on which it floats, by means of a 
glass funnel, the beak of which is stopped by the 
finger. 

This ethereous oil is often milky, or merely ne- 
bulous, by the interposition of some aqueous parts, 
from which it may be separated by a few days' rest. 
The essence, thus prepared, possesses a great de- 
gree of mobility, and is exceedinglj^ limpii]. 

Another method. — The apparatus employed in 
the preceding process may be used in tlie present 
case. Fill tlie retort two thirds with essence, and 
as tiie receiver is tubulated, apply to the tubulure 
a small square of paper moistened with saliva, to 
afford a free passage to the vapours. Graduate the 
fire in such a manner as to cany on the distillation 
very slowly, until a little more than half the oil 
contained in the retort is obtained. Separate from 
the product, a very small quantity of exceedingly 
acid and reddish water, wliich passes at the same 
time as the ethereous essence: by these means the 
operation is much shortened. The oil of turpen- 
tine which remains in the retort is highly co- 
loured, and thicker than the primitive essence. It 
may be used for extending fat, varnish, or for coarse 
oil painting. 

Jijrwnholz oil. 

Obtained by distillation from Hungarian balsam. 
It is distinguished from oil of turpentine, which is 
c.ommoidy sold for it, by its golden colour, agree- 
able odour, and acid oiliness of taste. 

Balsa?!! of turpentme, or Dutch drops. 

Obtained by distilling oil of turpentine in a glass 
retort, till a I'ed balsam is left. 

Or, by distilling resin and separating the oils as 
they come over; first a white oil, then yellow, lastly 
a thick red oil, which is the balsam. It is stimu- 
lant and diuretic. 

Oil of tar. 

Obtained by distilling tar: it is highly valued by 
painters, varnishers. Sec. on account of its drying 
qualities; it soon thickens of itself, almost to a bal- 
sam: the acid spirit that comes over with it is 
useful for many purposes where an acid is wanted. 
Rectified oil of hartshorn, or Dippels' oil. 

Obtained from hartshorn, distilled without addi- 
tion, rectifying the oil, either by a slow distillation 
in a retoj't, &c. no bigger than is necessary, and 
saving only the first portion that comes over, or 
with water in a comn) on still; it is very fine and 
thin, and must be kept in an opaque vessel, or in a 
drawer, or dark place, as it is quickly discoloured 
by light. It is antispasmodic, anodyne, and dia- 
phoretic, taken in doses of from 10 to 30 drops, in 
water. 

Japan camphor. 

This is obtained from the roots and shoots of the 
laiinis camphora and laurus cinnamovnim, as also 
the capura curimdu, by distillation with water. 
This crude camphor is refined b}' sublimation with 
one sixteenth of its weight of lime, in a very gen- 
tle heat. 

Camphor from essential oils. 

Obtained from the oils of the labiate plants, by 
a careful distillation, without addition of one tinrd 
of the oil; the residuum will be found to contain 
crystals of camjihor, on separating which, and re- 
distilling the remaining oil two or Ihi'ee times, tlie 
whole of the camphor may be obtained. Oil of 
rosemary or of sweet marjoram yield." about 1 oz. 
of camphor from 10 of oil; of the sage 1 oz. from 
8; and of lavender I oz. from 4, or even less of oil: 
that from oil of marjoram is not volatile, and al- 
though it takes fire, it soon goes out. This rosin, 
like the otiiers from essential oils, may be obtained 
in a larger proportion, it tlie oil is kept in slightly 
stopped bottles .in a cool place 

JV2 



150 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



DISTILLED WATERS. 



Preservation of^oxuei'sfor d!siiUation. 

Rub three pounds of rose-leaves for two or three 
minutes with a pound of common salt. The flowers 
being bruised by the friction of the grains of salt, 
form a paste which is to be put into an earthen jar, 
or into a water-tight barrel. The same process is 
to be repeated until the vessel is filled, so that all 
the roses may be equally salted. The vessel is then 
to be shut up'and kept in a cool place until wanted. 

For distillation, this aromatic paste is, at any I 
season, to be put into the body of the still with ^ 
twice its weight of water; and when heat is applied; \ 
the oil, or essential water, is to be obtained in the 
common way. Both the oil and water are in this 
way produced in greater quantity, than by using 
the" leaves without the salt: besides, the preserved 
paste will keep its flavour and strength unimpaired 
for several years. 

Other flowers, capable of affording essential oils, 
may also be treated in the above-mentioned way, 
with economy and advantage; as there is thereby 
no occasion to carry on a liiirried process in the 
heat of summer, when these are in perfection. 
General nilesfor the distillation of simple -waters. 

1. Plants and their parts ought to be fresh ga- 
thered. When they are directed fresh, such only 
must be employed; but some are allowed to be used 
dry, as being easily procurable in this state at all 
times of the year, tliough rather more elegant wa- 
ters might be obtained from them whilst green. 

1. Having bruised the subjects a little, pour 
thereon thrice its quantity of spring water. This 
quantity is to be diminished or increased, accord- 
ing as the plants are more or less juicy than ordi- 
siary. When fresh and juicy herbs aie to be dis- 
tilled, thrice their weight of water will be fully 
sufficient, but dry ones require a much larger quan- 
tity. In general there should be so much water, 
that after all intended to be distilled has come over, 
there may be liquor enough to prevent the matter 
from burning to the still. 

3. Formerly, some vegetables were slightly fer- 
mented with the addition of yeast, previous to the 
distillation. 

4. If any drops of oil swim on the surface of the 
water, they are to be carefully taken off". 

5. That' the waters may be kept the better, 
about one-twentieth part of their weight of proof 
spirit may be added to each, after they are distilled. 

Stills for simple -waters. 

The instruments chiefly used in the distillation 
of simple waters are of two kinds, commonly called 
the hot still, or alembic, and the cold still. The 
waters drawn by the cold still from plants are much 
more fragrant, 'and more fully impregnated with 
their virtues, than those drawn by the hot still or 
alembic. 

The method is this: — A pewter body is suspend- 
ed in the body of the alembic, and the head of the 
still fitted to the pewter body: into this body the 
ingredients to be distilled are put, the alembic 
filled with water, the still head luted to the pewter 
body, and the nose luted to the worm of the refri- 
geratory or worm. The same intention will be 
answered by putting the ingredients into a glass 
alembic, and placing it in a bath heat, or balneum 
mari>3e. 

The cold still is much the best adapted to draw 
ott' the virtues of simples, which are valued for 
their fine flavour when green, which is suliject to 
be lost in drying; for when we want to extract from 
plants a spirit so light and volatile, as not to sub- 
sist in open air any longer than while the plant 
.jontinues in itsgrow'th, it is certainly the best me- 
thod to remove the plant from its uauve soil into 



some proper instrument, where, as it dies, these 
volatile parts can be collected and preserved. And 
such an instrument is what we call the cold still, 
where the drying of the plant, or flower, is only 
forwardetl by a moderate warmth, and all that rises 
is collected and preserved. 
Expeditious method of distilliyig simple -waters. 
Tie a piece of muslin or gauze over a glazec' 
earthen pot, whose mouth is just large enough to 
receive the bottom of a warming-pan; on this cloth 
lay the herb, clipped; then place upon them the 
warming-pan, with live coals in it, to cause heat 
just enough to prevent burning, by which means, 
as the steam issuing out of the herb cannot mount 
upwards, by reason of the bottom of the pan just 
fitting the brim of the vessel below it, it must ne- 
cessarily descend, and collect into water at the bot- 
tom of the receiver, and that strongly impregnated 
with the essential oil, and the salt of the vegetable 
thus distilled; which, if wanted to make spirituous 
or compound water, is easily done, by simply ad- 
ding some good spirits or French brandy to it, 
which will keep good for a long time, and be much 
better than if the spirits had passed through a still, 
which must of necessity waste some of their 
strength. Care should be taken not to let the fire 
be too strong, lest it scorch the plants; and to be 
made of charcoal, for continuance and better regu- 
lation, which must be managed by lifting up and 
laying down the lid, as wanted to increase or de- 
crease the degrees of heat. The deeper the earthen 
pan, the cooler the season, and the less fire at first 
(afterwards to be gradually raised), in the greater 
perfection will the distilled water be obtained. 

As the more moveable or volatile parts of vege- 
tables are the aqueous, the oily, tiie gummy, the 
resinous, and tlie saline, these are to be expected 
in the waters of this process; the heal here em- 
ployed being so great as to burst the vessels of the 
plants, some of which contain so large a quantity 
of oil, that it may be seen swimming on the sur- 
face of the water. 

Although a small quantity only of distilled wa- 
ters can he obtained at a time by thisconfined opera- 
tion, yetit compensates in strength what is deficient 
in quantity. Such liquors, if well corked up from 
the air, m ill keep good a long time, especially if 
about a twentieth part of any spirits be added, in 
order to preserve the same more ett'ectually. 
To make rosemary water. 
As the method of performing the operation by 
the cold still is the very same, whatever plant or 
flower is used, the following instance of procuring 
a water from rosemary will be abundantly sufii- 
cient to instruct the young practitioner in the man- 
ner of conducting the process in all cases whaterer. 
Take rosemary, fresh gathered in its perfection, 
with the morning dew upon it, and lay it lightly 
and unbruised upon the plate or bottom of the still; 
cover the plate with its conical head, and apply a 
glass receiver to the nose of it. Make a small fire 
of charcoal under the plate, continuing it as long 
as any litiuor comes over into the receiver. 

When nothing more comes over, take oft' the 
still head, and remove the plant, putting fresh in 
its stead, and proceed as before; continue to rejieat 
the operation successively, till a sufficient quantity 
of water is procured. Let this distilled water be 
kept at rest in clean bottles, close stopped, for 
some days in a cold place: by tiiis means it will 
become limpid, and powerfully impregnated with 
the taste and smell of the plant. 

Simple Jilrxeterecd -waters. 

Take of speiinnint leaves, fresh, i\ lbs. sea 

wormwood to;)*, fiisli, angelica leaves, iresh, each 

I lb.; water, as much as is sufficient to prevent 

i burning. l)raw olV by dislillatioiv 3 gallons. — (k" 



DISTILLATION. 



151 



take of elder flowers, moderately dried, 2 pounds; 
angelica leaves, fresh gathered, 1 poand; water, a 
sufficient quantity. Distil off 3 gallons. 
Simple pennyroyal ivater. 

Take of pennyroyal leaves, dry, a pound and a 
half; water as much as will prevent burning. Draw 
off by distillation 1 gallon. 

Simple spearmint tuater. 

Take of spearmint leaves, fresh, any quantity; 
water, three times as much. Distil as'Iong as the 
liquor which comes over has a considerable taste 
or smell of the mint. — Or, take spearmint leaves, 
dried, I5 lbs., water as much as is sufficient to pre- 
vent burning. Draw off by distillation, I gallon. 
Cinnamon -water. 

Take of bruised cinnamon, 1 lb. — water, 2 gal- 
lons. Simmer in a still for half an hour, put what 
comes over into the still again; when cold, strain 
througli flannel. 

Eau sans-pareil. 

Takr 2 gallons of fine old honey- water, ])ut it 
into a still capable of holding 4 gallons, and add 
the thinly pared rinds of 6 or 8 fresh citrons, nei- 
ther green nor inellota ripe. Then add 60 or 70 
drops of fine Roman bergamot: and, having luted 
the apparatus well, let the whole digest in a mo- 
derate heat for 24 hours. Draw oft, by a water- 
bath heat, about 1 gallon. 

Jessamins water. 

Take 6 pounds of the white sweet almond cakes 
from which jessamine oil has been made abroad: 
beat and sift them to a fine powder, and put to it 
as much fresh oil of jessamine as will be required 
to make it into a stiff paste. Let this paste be dis- 
solved in about 6 quarts of spring water, which has 
been previously well boiled, and left until it has 
become about half cold. Stir and mix the whole 
well together; and when the oil and water have been 
well combined, let the whole stand until the pow- 
der has fallen to the bottom of the vessel. Now 
pour the liquid off gently, and filter it through cot- 
ton, in a large tin funnel, into the glass buttle in 
which it is to be kept for use. The powder or se- 
diment wiiich has been left at the bottom of the 
vessel, when dried by the heat of the sun', answers 
very well for making almond paste for the hands. 
Jamaica pepper -water. 

Jamaica pepper is the fruit of a tall tree growing 
in the mountainous parts of Jamaica, where it is 
njuch cultivated because of the great profit arising 
from the cured fruit, sent in large quantities annu- 
ally into Europe. Take of Jamaica pepper, half a 
pound; water, two gallons and a half; draw off I 
gallon with a pretty brisk fire. The oil of ttiis 
fruit is very ponderous, and therefore this water 
is made in an alembic. 

Myrtle -water. 

Infuse 8 or 10 lbs. of the cuttings of green myr- 
tle, in nearly '20 gallcris of rain or river water, and 
add thereto a pint of fresli yeast, after it has stood 
for 24 hours. At the end of another day and night, 
put the whole into a still, with a pound of bay salt. 
jDra\v oft" the whole of the water; and, next day, in- 
fuse more myrtle leaves, fis before, and distil again. 
Repeat the same a third lime. 

Orange Jioiuer -water. 

Take 2 lbs. of orange flowers, and 24 qU'-irts of 
water, and draw over tln-ee pints. — Or, take 12 lbs. 
of orange flowers, and 16 quarts of water, and draw 
over la quarts. 

Orange peel -water. 

Take of the outward yellow rind of Seville 
oranges, 4 ounces; water, 3 gallons and a half; 
draw oft' 1 gallon by the alembic, with a brisk fire. 
Peppermint ivater. 

Take of the herb of peppermint, dried, 1 1-2 lbs.; 
water, as much as is sufficient to prevent burning. 
D' nil oft" a gallon. Tliis has been known to aA^S 



sickness when nothing else would succeed, and is 
used in flatulent colics. A wine-glassful may be 
taken, and often repeated. 

Another. — Take of oil of peppermint, 1 lb.; wa- 
ter, a sufficient quantity. Draw off 30 gallons. Thia 
is stimulant and carminative; and covers disagree- 
able flavours. 

Portugal and Angel -waters. 

Take a pint ot orange fluwer water, a pint of 
rose-water, and half a pint of myrtle-water; tc 
these put a quarter of an ounce of distilled spirit of 
musk, and an ounce of spirit of ambergris. Shake 
tlie whole well together, and the process will be 
finished. 

Jiose -water. 

Take of the leaves of fresh damask roses with 
the heels cut off, 6 lbs.— water, as much as to pre- 
vent burning. Distil off a gallon. The distilled 
water should be drawn from dried herbs, because 
the fresh cannot be got at all times in the year. 
Whenever the fresh are used the weights must be 
increased; but whether the fresh or di-y are mad« 
use of, it is left to the judgment of the operator to 
vary the weight, according as the plants are in 
greater or less perfection, owing to the season in 
which they grew, or were collected. 
Small snail -water. 

Take of balm, mint, hart's tongue, ground '\\j, 
flowers of the dead nettle, mallow flowers, elder 
flowers, each a handful; snails, freed from their 
shells, and whites of eggs, each 4 oz. ; nutmegs, 1-2 
oz. ; milk, 1 gallon. Distil in a water bath to dry- 
ness. 

Strawberry -ivater. 

Take of the bruised fruit, 20 lbs. ; water a suflS- 
cient quantity. Draw oft" two gallons and a half: 
this water is very fragrant. 

To estimate the quantity of salts contained in any 
mineral xinter. 

This may be done with considerable accuracy by 
finding the difference of weight between a bottle 
filled to a certain mark with distilled water, and 
the same filled with the mineral water: to this dif- 
ference add l-5lh, and again another fifth; the 
weight will then denote that of the silts contained 
in the bottle of water; large square case bottles are 
well adapted for this purpose. Let the difference 
be 79 grains, l-5th is 15 grains 4-5ths; and the 
other 5th the same: total, 110 grains 3-5ths. 

The sa?ts, obtained by the evaporation of a mi- 
neral water, are not to be ccnsiciered as its real 
contents, because new combinations are formed 
during the process, and the most insoluble com- 
pounds possible are separated first; whereas in the 
original water there is good reas: n to suppose the 
real mode of composition is that of the most solu- 
ble compositions that are capable of being formed 
from ihi remote principles contained in the water. 
Hence those common, products, sulphate of lime 
and muriate of soda, probably exist in mineral wa- 
ters as sulphatG of soda and muriate of lime, and it 
is to the presence of the latter salt that much of 
the meilical eftects of mineral waters is to be as- 
cribed. — Gray's Siipplement to the Pharmacopcda, 
Common distilled -water. 

Take of water, 10 gallons. Distil. Throw 
away the first half gallon, and draw off 4 gallons, 
which keep in glass or stone ware. Distilled wa- 
ter is used as a diet drink in cancerous diseases, 
and should be used in making medicines when the 
salts contained in common water would decompose 
them. 



COMPOUND DISTILLED WATERS. 

General rules for the distillation of spirituous -watevi, 
1. The plants and tlieir parts ought to be mode- 



162 



UNIVERSAL RECEIP V BOOK. 



ratelj and newly dried, except such as are ordered 
to be fresh gathered. 

2. After the ingredients have been steeped in the 
spirit for the time prescribed, ad(i as much water 
as will be sufficient to prevent a burnt flavour, or 
rather more. 

3. The liquor which conies over first in the dis- 
tillation is by some kept by itself, under the title 
of spirit; and the other runnings, which Y>rove 
milky, are fined down by art. But it is preferable 
to mix all the I'unnings together, without fining 
them, that the waters may possess the virtues of 
the plant entire. 

4. In the distillation of these waters, the genuine 
brandy obtained from wine is directed. Where 
this is not to be. procured, take, instead of that 
proof-spirit, half its quantity of a well rectified spi- 
rit, prepared from any other fermented liquors, 
lu this steep the ingredients, and then add spring 
■water enough, both to make up the quantity or- 
dered to be drawn off, and to prevent burning. 

Bergamot -water. 

Take of fine old French brandy, 2 gallons, or, 1 
gallon of highh' rectified spirit of wine, and 1 gal- 
lon of spring water. Put to tne brandy, or diluted 
spirits, 1-2 an ounce, or more, of true Roman oil 
of Bergaraol, whose parts have been previously 
well divided by trituration with lump sugar, in a 
glass mortar. Now distil by a water heat, and 
draw off six qu.irts only. By this operation, a 
inost excellent bergarnot water will be produced, 
"which will remain good for twenty _years. 
Original receipt for Hungary -water. 

T..e original receipt for preparing tliis invalua- 
»le lotion, is written in letters of gold in the hand 
writing of Elizabeth, queen of Hungary. Take of 
aqua vitse, four times distilled, 3 parts, — the tops 
and flowers of rosemary, 2 parts. To be put toge- 
ther in a close-slopped vessel, and allowed to stand 
in a warm place, during fifty hours, then to be dis- 
tilled in an alembic, and of this, once every week, 
1 drachm to be taken in the morning, either in the 
food or drink, and every morning the face and the 
diseased limb to be washed with it. 
Prench Ilungari/ -water. 

The French Hungary water is made wholly from 
a wine spirit, and from rosemary flowers alone, 
which about Montpellier (the place from whence 
this commodity comes), grow in great plenty and 
perfection. The fragrancy of these flowers is so 
great, as to render the waters made from them 
more excellent and valuable than any thing of the 
kind made in England. 

Hest Hungary water. 

Take thirty gallons of spirit of wine: put to it, in 
a large still, six large bunches of fine green rose- 
mary, when the flowers are white, and in full 
bloom; one pound of lavender flowers, .ind four 
ounces of true English oil ot rosemary. The rose- 
mary-leaves and flowers must be stripped from all 
their wood and green twigs. When the whole has 
been in a state of digestion for twenty-four hours, 
distil as before, drawing off" about twenty-five or 
twenty-six gallons, but no more. When distilled, 
stop it closely in a copper vessel, and keep it un- 
disturbed for about a month. 

Aqua mellis, or the king''s honey -water. 

First distillation. — Take 28 pounds of coriander 
seeds, ground small in the starch-mill, — 28 com- 
mon bundles of sweet marjoram, in flower, dried 
and stripped from the twigs, — 1 pound ot calamns 
aromatiaxs, — 1 pound of yellow saunders, — and 1 
pound of orange and lemon peel. Let the three 
last be separately be.iten into gross powder. Mix 
the above ingredients, and put them into a sixty- 
gallon copper still, and add to them twenty gallons 
of proof spirit, and the same quantity of rain or 



spring water. Lute well all the junctures of the 
apparatus, and leave the ingredients in this state 
without fire, for forty-eight liours. At the end of 
tliis time, begin to distil by a very gentle heat, lest 
the flowers and seeds, which ai'e very light, should 
rise suddenly in the atill-head, stop up the worm, 
and endanger the whole work. 

Increase the fire after the first half hour, and 
keep it legular, till the termination of the process. 
Draw off"abctut twenty-six or twenty-seven gallons, 
or continue so long as the spirit will burn, by the 
application of a lighted paper to a small quantity 
of it in a saucer. Next day, when the still is per- 
fectly cold, let it be well cleaned out. The ingre- 
dients should be immediately dried in the sun, 
otherwise they will become mouldy. When there 
is a considerable quantity from three or four mak- 
ings, it ought to be ground in a mill, and finely 
sifted. They will be found to be of great use ii» 
the making of ordinary brown wash-balls; and with 
some additions of brown powders for the hair. 

Second distillation. — Now return the spirits 
drawn off into the still, and add ten or twelve gal- 
lons of water. Then put in the following ingredi- 
ents, bruised and mixed: 14 ounces of nutmegs, 4 
ounces of cloves, 12 ounces of cinnamon bark, 8 
ounces of pimento, and 40 ounces of oassia-lignnm. 
These are to be separately broken or bruised in an 
iron mortar, until they are about the size of smaU 
peas. If there be any dust, it must be sifted from 
them before they are used. Then take 40 ounces 
of storax, 40 ounces of gum-benjamin, 44 ounces 
oflabdanum, and 40 venellios. 

Break and bruise the above also, but make as 
little dust as possible. Put the dust from these 
and the foregoing, together, into a coarse muslin 
bag, which is to be hung in the still, so that the li- 
quor, during distillation, may extract all its virtues. 
Tiie whole are then to remain in the liquor, in a 
cold state, for forty-eight hours; attention being 
still paid to luting and stopping close, as before. 
At llie end of this time kindle the fire, and work 
off'(slow!y St first) until twenty-six gallons aredis- 
tilled. Mix all the different runnings together in 
s copper vessel, kept for this purpose only. 

Having drawn off", in this second distillation, 
twenty-six gallons, mix together 10 uz. of spirit of 
musk, 10 oz. of spirit of ambergris, 1-2 oz. of true 
oil of lavender, 1-2 oz. of essence of bergamot, and 
1-2 oz. of oil of rhodium. Now add to it, in a 
copper vessel, that will hold forty gallons, six gal- 
lons of orange-flower water, and eight gallons of 
rose-water, recently made. When properly mixed, 
put all these into the copper vessel, and stir the 
whole weU together. Add to all these a quart of 
milk, which has stood for a night, and wliich has 
had the cream taken clearly ofF', then agitate and 
mix the whole well together, and stop the vessel up 
close, until tl.a time when it is to be used. 

The jar ought to have a lock-cock soldered into 
it, to prevent accidents. Tliis should be placed full 
two inchc from the bottom, in order that the 
milk, and other impurities may fall to tlie bottom. 

If this honey-water be made in the spring, and 
if the weather be fair, it will be quite fined down 
in the course of a month; that is, if it be not open- 
ed or disturbed. When, by drawing off" a little in 
a glass, the milk, kc. have fallen down to the bot- 
tom, draw the whole oft' into clean and well sea- 
soned stone, or glass bottles; or into another cop- ' 
per-jar. This composition ought never to be drawn 
ofi" in rainy or cloudy weather; for then the milk is 
apt to rise. In warm weather it should be kept 
cool; and, in winter, as warm as possible. When 
distilled in the winter, the jars ought to be warm- 
ed, or otherwise the honey-water will not be finei 
for five or six months. 



DISTILLATION. 



15S 



This honey-water may keep thirty years. 

Tlie ins^-eiiients from the second distillation are 
of much greater value than those from the first, and 
therefore require more care in the drying. These 
are of .^reat use tor the best sort of gross powders, 
for s-Meet bags, Stc. ; and, if made into a fine pow- 
der, may be made use of with great success, in the 
best sort of brown perfumed balls. 

The, same powder, with fresh ingredients, 
makes excellent pastils, to burn; and may be fur- 
ther used in making spirit of benjamin. 
Compound spirit of juniper. 

Take of juniper-berries, well bruised, 1 lb. ca- 
raway seeds, and sweet fennel seeds, eaeh, bruis- 
ed, 1 1-2 oz. diluted alcohol, 1 gallon. Macerate 
for two days, and having added as much water as 
will prevent empyreuma, draw off, by distillation, 
one gallon. 

Lavender spirit. 

Take 14 pounds of lavender flowers, 10 1-2 gal- 
lons of rectified spirit of wine, and 1 gallon of M'a- 
ter; draw off ten gallons by a gentle fire; or, which 
is m.uch better, by a sand bath heat. 
havender -water. 

Take 30 gallons of the best wine spirit,«pour ic 
mto a copper still, placed in a hot-water bath, over 
a clear but steady fire; put to it 6 pounds of the 
largest and freshest lavender flowers, after having 
separated them from all stalks and green leaves, 
which give the lavender water a-v\'oodyand faint 
smell. Put no water into the still; close all the 
junctures well, ard let the spirits and flowers staad 
"n a state of digestion for 24 hours; and then, with 
a gentle fire, draw off" 25 or, at most, 26 gallons 
only, which, as soon as distilled, are to be poured 
into a copper vessel for keeping. Wooden vessels 
and cans are to be avoidect, as the best parts of the 
oil and of the spirits will be absorbed by them, 
and consequently lost. When the distillation is 
over, draw out, or quench the fire, and let the re- 
maining spirits and flowers continue in the still un- 
til the next day. When the above quantity of 25 
or 26 gallons has stood for 4 or 5 days, put to it 10 
oz. of true English oil of lavender. Mix the whole 
well in the jar, by drawing out one or two gallons, 
and then returning them. Repeat this ten or 
twelve times, then stop the vessel up close, and do 
not disturb it for a month, at least. 

Lavender -water of the second order. 

To the 4 or 5 gallons of the spirits, and the la- 
vender flowers left in the still, after the distillation 
mentioned in the last article, add 15 gallons of 
common proof spirit, 9 or 10 gallons of spring wa- 
ter, 3 pounds of lavender-flowers, an'l 4 oz. of oil 
of lavender, intimately mixed with Inaf-sugar, by 
powdering it in a glass mortar. Digest the whole, 
and draw off 25 gallons, proceeding in every re- 
spect as before, except that, in this case, no oil is 
to be added; for, as there is so much water pre- 
sent, the addition of oil would be apt to turn the 
whole quantity mud<ly, or of a blueisli or opaque 
colour, which it cannot be easily freed from, with- 
out a second distillation. 

Lavender -water for immediate use. 

Mix with 1 gallon of [>ioof spirit, \^ ounce of 
true English oil of lavender, which is all that will 
properly combine with the spirit, without injuring 
the colour, by rendering it muddy. When the 
spirit and the oil are properly mixed, they are to 
be put into glass bottles, which are to be well 
stopped, and ought to be shaken before used. 
Perfumed lavender -water. 

Distil by a gentle heat in a sand or water bath; 

or mix and shake frequently, during 14 days, the 

following ingredients: 1 ounce of foreign oil of la- 

Tcnder, 1-2 ditto of English ditto, l-3ditto of es- 

U 



sence of ambergris, and one gallon of rectified sjii- 
rit of wine. 

Lemon -water. 

The peel of the lemoa, the part used in making 
(his water, is a very grateful bitter aromatic, and, 
on that accomit, very serviceable in repairing and 
strengthening the stomach. Take of dried lemon- 
peel, 4 lbs. proof spirit, 10 1-2 gallons, and one 
gallon of water. Draw off" 10 gallons by a gentle 
fire. 

Spirit of peppermint. 

Take of the herb of peppermint, dried, I 1-2 lbs. 
proof spirit, 1 gallon, water, sufficient to prevent 
burning. Distil off a gallon. 

Compoiiiid g'e7itian -water. 

Take of gentian root, sliced, 3 ibs. ; leaves and 
! flowers of the lesser centaury, each 8 ounces; in- 
fuse the whole in 6 quarts of proof spirit and one 
qoart of water; and draw oft" the water till the 
feints begin to rise. 

Spirit of scurvy grass. 

Take of scurvygrass, fresh gathered and bruised, 
15 pounds; horse-radish root 6 pounds; rectified 
spirit of wine, 1 gallon; and water, 3 pints. Digest 
the whole in a close vessel 2 days, and draw off a 
gallon with a gentle fire. 

Antiscorbutic tvCitei^. 

Take of the leaves of water-cresses,"garden and 
sea scurvygrass, and brook-lime, each 20 handsful: 
of piue-tops, germander, liorehound, and the lesser 
centaury, each 16 handsful: of the roots of bryony 
and sharp pointed dock, each 6 pounds: of mustard 
seed, 1 1-2 pounds. Digest the whole in 10 gal- 
lons 01 proof spirit, and 2 gallons of water, and 
draw oir by a gentle fire. 



ACID LIQUORS. 

To make vinegar. 
Vinegar is used principally as a sauce and to 
preserve vegetable substances; but if is employed 
externally when an over dose of strong wine, sjiirit 
opium, or other narcotic poison has been taken. 
A false strength is given to it by adding oil of vit- 
riol, or some acrid vegetable, as pellitory of Spain, 
capsicum, &c. It is rendered colourless by add- 
ing fresh burned bone black, 6 ounces to a gallon, 
and letting it stand for two or three days to clear. 
Mix cider and honey, in the proportion of 1 lb. of 
honey to a gallon of cider, and let it stand in a ves- 
sel for some mon:hs, and vinegar will be produced 
so ])OWf vtul, that water must be mixed with it for 
common use. 

Another method. — Scheele, a celebrated che- 
mist, has recommended the following recipe: 
Take 6 spoonsful- of good alcoiiol; to this add 3 
pints of milk, and put the mixture into vessels to 
be corked close. Venl must be given from time 
to time to the gas of fermentation. In the course 
of a month, this will produce very good vinegar. 

Another. — Put into a barrel of sufficient dimen- 
sions a mixture composed of 41 wine pints of wa- 
ter, about 8 pints of whiskey, [I'ean de vm de. 
grain) about 2 wine pints of yeast, and 2 ])ounds 
\ of charcoal, and place it in a proper situation for 
I fermentation. ^ At the end of 4 months a very good 
I vinegar will be formed, as clear and as white as 
i water. 

I Common vinegar. 

I This is made from weak ma:t liquor, brewed for 
! the purpose: its various streugth is, in England, 
; denoted by numbers, from 18 to 24. 
j Another. — To every gallon of water put 1 lb. of 
j coarse Lisbon sugar; let the mixture be bo.'led and 
1 skimmed as long as any scum ai'ises. Then let it 



54 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



be poured into proper vessels: and when it is as 
cool as beer, when worked, let a toast, rubbed over 
■with yeast, be put to it. Let it work about 24 
hours, and then put it into an iron-hooped cask, 
fixed either ntar a constant fire, or where the sum- 
mer sun shines the greater part of the day; in this 
silui-tionit should not be closely stopped up; but a 
tile, or something similar, should be laid on the 
Dung hole, to keep out (he dust and insects. At 
the end of about 3 months (sometimes less) it will 
be clear and fit for use, and may be bottled oif. 
The longer it is kept, after it is bottled, the better 
it will be. If the vessel containing the liquor is to 
be exposed to the sun's heat, the best time to be- 
gin making it is in the month of April. 
TVine vinegar. 
Take any sort of wine that has gone through fer- 
mentation, and put it into a cask that has had vine- 
gar in it; then take some of the fruit or stalks of 
which the wine has been made, and put them wet 
into an open-headed cask in the sun, with a coatse 
cloth over the top of it, for six days — 'after which, 
put them in the vinegar, and stir it well about — 
then put it in a warm place, if in winter, or if in 
summer, put it in a yard in the sun, with a slate 
over the bung. When the vinegar is sour enough 
and fine, rack it oif into a clean sour cask, and 
bung it up; then put it in the cellar for use. Those 
■wines that contain the most mucilage are fittest for 
the purpose. 

The lees of pricked wine are also a very proper 
ingredient in vinegar. 

Sugar vinegar. 
To each gallon of water add 2 lbs. of brown su- 
gar, and a little yeast; leave it exposed to the sun 
for six months, in a vessel slightly stopped. 
Gooseberry vinegar. 
Bruise the gooseberries, when ripe, and to every 
quart put three quarts of water; stir them well to- 
gether, and let the whole stand for 24 hours, then 
strain it through a canvass bag. To every gallon 
of liquor add 1 lb. of brown sugar, and stir them 
well together before they are put into the cask. 
Proceed in all other respects as before. This vi- 
negar possesses a pleasant taste and smell; but 
raspberi'y vinegar, which may be made on the same 
plan, is far superior in these respects. The rasp- 
berries are not required to be of the best sort, still 
they should be ripe and well flavoux'ed. 
Currant vinei(ar. 
This is made in the same way as that from goose- 
berries, only pick oft' the curranti from the stalks. 
Primrose vinegar.. 
To 15 quarts of water put C lbs. of brown sugar; 
let it boil ten minutes, and take off" the scum; pour 
on it half a peck of primroses; before it is quite 
cold, ]>ut in a little fresh yeast, and let it work in 
a warm place all night; put it in a barrel in the 
kitchen, and when done working, close the barrel, 
still keeping it in a warm place. 
Raidn vinegar. 
After making raisin wine, lay the pressed rai- 
sins in a heap to heat, then to each c^wt. put 10 
gallons of water, and a little yeast. 
Cider vinegar. 
The poorest sort of cider will serve for vinegar, 
in managing which proceed thus. — First draw off 
the cider into a cask that has had vinegar in ft be- 
fore; then put some of the apples that have been 
pressed into it, set the whole in the sun, and in a 
•week or 9 days it may be drawn off' into another 
cask.— This is a good table vinegar. 

Vinegar from the refuse of fruits. 

Take the skins of raisins after Ibey have been 

used in making wine, and pour three times their 

own quantity of boiling water on them; stir them 

well about and then set the cask la a warm place, 



close covered,, and the liquor, in a week, when 
drawn off' from its sediment, put into another cask 
and well bunged down, will be a good vinegar for 
the table. 

Vinegar from the refuse of bee-hives. 

When honey is extracted from the combs, by 
means of pressure, take the whole mass, break and 
separate it, and into each tub or vessel put one part 
of combs, and two of water; place them in the sun, 
or in a warm place, and cover them with cloths. 
Eermentation takes place in a few days, and con- 
tinues from 8 to 12 days, according to the higher 
or lower temperature of the situation in which the 
operation is carried on. During the fermentation, 
stir the matter from time to time and press it down 
with the hands, that it may be perfectly soaked. 
When the fermentation is over, put the matter to 
drain upon sieves or strainers. At tbe bottom of 
the vessels will be found a yellow liquor, which 
must be thrown away, because it would soon con- 
tract a disagreeable smell, which it would commu- 
nicate to the vinegar. Then wash the tubs, put 
into them the water separated from the other mat- 
ter; it immediately begins to turn sour; when the 
tubs must be again covered w'th cloths, and kept 
moderately warm. A pellicle or skin is formed on 
their surface, beneath which the vinegar acquires 
strength; in a mjnth's ti-Tie it begins to be sharp, 
it must be left standing a little longer, and then put 
into a cask, of which the bung-hole is left open. 
It may then be used like any other vinegar. 
To strengthen vin 'gar. 

Suffer it to be repeatedly frozen, and separate 
the upper cake of ice, or water from it. 

All vinegars owe their principal strength to the 
acetic acid they contain; but the vinegar of wine 
contains also a tartar, a small portion of the malic 
acid, alcohol, and. colouring matter: that of cider 
contains merely the malic acid, little or no alcohol, 
and a yellowish colouring matter. 
Vinegars from orange and elder forvers, clove, gil- 
Ufioiuers, musk roses, &c. 

Dry an ounce of either of the above flowers, (^ex- 
cept the orange flowers, which will not bear ary- , 
ing), for two days in the sun; then put them into a 
bottle, pour on them a pint of vinegar, closely stop 
the bottle, and infuse 15 days in modei-ate heat of 
the sun. Vinegars of any other flowers, as tarra- 
gon, &o. may be made in a similar manner. 
To prepare ice vinegar. 

Saturate 3 or 4 pounds of purified potash with 
wine or beer vinegar, which has been distilled over 
charcoal powder; evaporate the saturated liquor to 
the consistence of a d.y powder, of which put 3 lbs. 
accurately weiglied, when still warm, into a glass, 
previously heated, and shut it with a glass stopper. 
Then pour 3 lbs. of sulphuric acid into a retort, 
provided on its upper part with a pipe, and join to 
it a receiver, large enough for containing about 20 
pints of water. Hegin to add to the sulphuric acid 
the above salt in small portions: shaking and stir- 
ring it frequently. After having mixed all the salt, 
add by degrees I lb. more of sulphuric acid, and 
shut the pipe with a wet bladder: suff'er the whole 
to stand quietly one night. The next morning 
place the retort into the sand-pot of a furnace so 
deeply, that the sand between the bottom of the 
pot and the retort be o:.ly about half an inch thick; 
put the receiver into a refrigeratory filled with 
very cold water, after which apply a gentle fire. 
About an hour after, the^ distillation commences by 
white fumes appearing in the vessels, at which 
time the fire must be very carefully managed. The 
drops that go over may succeed one another ([uick- 
ly, without any danger of the vessels being crack- 
ed: but be very careful that no coherent streams 
run over, and likewise take care that the thick anu 



DISTO-LATION. 



1 5c 



white fumes only lodge in the lowest part of the 
receiver; and when they begin to rise, particularly 
•with a whirling motion, take the fire immediately 
out of the furnace. It is, besides, necessary to refri- 
gerate often the upper part of the receiver with 
cold water, or, which is still better, with snow or 
ice. The ending of the distillation is known by 
the disappearance of the white fumes, by the drops 
running over much slower, and particularly by the 
liquefaction of the residuum to a black frothing 
fluid, that goes easily over into the receiver. At 
the moment of the li(|uefying and frothing of that 
substance, the receiver ought to be taken off, and 
anotiier put on, into which 5 or 6 dr. of a much 
weaker and disagreeably smelling acetous ^cid will 
go over; that, however, may be used for purifying 
the ice vinegar from the ad^ierent sulphurous acid; 
when, after having diluted with water, it is satu- 
rated with barytes, filtrated, and evaporated to 
dryness. The residuum is ground to a fire pow- 
der, and, together with charcoal powder, added to 
the ic* vinegar; after which the mixture ought to 
be rectified over a gentle tire, to the dryness of the 
residuum. Of 3 lbs. of acetate of kali, 22 oz. of 
ice-vinegar were obtained by this method. 
To 7nake quass. 
Mix rye flour and warm water together, and 
leave it till it has turned sour. Th"s vinegar is 
much drank in Russia; it loooks thick and unplea- 
sant at first, but becomes agreeable by use. 
Distilled vinegar. 
Tiiis is obtained from vinegar by distillation, 
rejecting the 4th or 8th part that comes over first, 
and avoiding its acquiring a burnt flavour. 

Distilled vinegar is weaker than the common, 
but is used sometimes in picklas, where its want 
of colour is an advantage. 

Improved distilled vinegnr. 
Obtained from wood distilled in large iron cy- 
linders for tlie manufacture of charcoal fur gun- 
powder; when rectified it is used for all the pur- 
poses of distilled vinegar. 

To deprive vinegar and other vegetable liquids of 
their colour. 
To take away the colour of vinegar, a litre of red 
wine vinegar, cold, is mixed with 45 grammes of 
bone-charoal, in a glass vessel. Shake this mix- 
ture from time to time, and in two or three days 
the colour completely disaj)pears. 'When the pro- 
cess is to be performed in the large way, throw 
the charcoal into a cask of vinegar, h hich must be 
stirred from time to time. The highest coloured 
red wines treated in the same manner become per- 
fectly limpid. Ivory black possesses the same pro- 
perty' as boue black. 

7 'o prepare the charcoal. 
Fill a crucible with the most compact parts of 
ox and sheep boi.es, lute the cover, carefully leav- 
ing only a small opening at the top, place the cru- 
cible on a forge fire, and heal it gradually till red, 
when the flame from the oily and gelatinous ])arts 
has ceased, diminish the opening aiul suddenly 
raise the fire, when cold, reduce the cliarcoal or 
porphyry to fine powder. 

To procure pyruUgneous acid. 
This acid is procured from any kind of green 
wood (such as cord wood), used for making char- 
coal; a cord of wood (worth in Monmouthshire 
about 8s. ) will produce about eighty gallons. It is 
obtained in the following manner: — A brisk oven is 
filled with coal or wood, until it becomes sufficient- 
ly hot to heat an oven over it to that degree as to 
reduce green wood to a charcoal. The upper oven 
should be closely stopped except a tube at the top 
to carry oifthe steam or acid, which tube is passed 
tlirough water, and the steam tlius condensed forms 
ihe acid. 



To prepare the same. 
Place a large cast-iron cylinder, or retort (simi- 
lar to those used for the production of carburetted 
hydrogen gas), in a furnace, so that it may receive 
as much heat, all round, as possible. One end of 
this cylinder must be so constructed as to open and 
shut, to admit wood, and exclude the air. 

Oak in pieces about a foot in length is to be put 
into the cylinder, which is to be filled as fidl as 
possible, without being wedged, and the door must 
be shut close to exclude air; from the cylinder let 
a worm run through cold water to condense the 
acid; by this it is conveyed to a large cask placed 
on one end, where there is a pipe to carry it from 
that to two or three more; thus it is completely se- 
cured from flying off" in the vaporous state. I'he 
fire is now to be raised to a great heat, sufliciently 
powerful to convert the wood completely into char- 
coal. When the acid ceases to come over, the fire 
is to be taken out, and the mass of wood left to cool 
in the confined state, when it becomes perfect char- 
coal. In the first cask, tar is chiefly contained with 
the acid, it precipitates to the bottom, and is drawn 
ofi^ by a cock; it is afterwards boiled in an iron 
boiler to evaporate the acid, before it is fit for use. 
If the acid is not strong enough, it is put into large 
square vats about six inches deep, for the purpose 
of making a large surface, to evaporate apart of 
the water contained in the acid more speedily by a 
slow heat. These vats are bedded on sand upon 
the top of a brick stove, where a gentle heat is ap- 
plied; thus it may be procured in a pretty strong 
state. 

This acid, now well known in Britain as an arti- 
cle of commerce, and in its native state is a liquid 
of the colour of white wine, possesses a strong acid 
and slightly astringent taste, combined with an em- 
pyreumatie smell. When allowed. tc remain in a 
sfate of rest for eight or ten days, tar of a black 
colour subsides, and the acid is then comparatively 
transparent. To purify it further, it undergoes 
the process of distillation, by which it is freed from 
a stiil greater portion of the tar, with which it is 
combined, and is thus rendered still mrre trans- 
parent. But though the process of distillation be 
repeated without end, it will never be freed from 
the volatile oil with which it is combined, and 
which is the cause of the empyreuma constantly 
attending it. In short, it contains the same proper- 
ties for the preservation of animal matters from 
putrefaction as smoking them by wood does, which 
is practised at present by '.he most barbarous na- 
tions, and which has been handed down from the 
remotest ages of antiquity. 

At a recent anniversary of the Whitehaven Philo- 
sophical Society, two specimens of meat cured 
with the pyroligiieous acid were exhibited by one 
of the members. They were prepared on the 7th 
of September, 1819. One had been hung up at 
home, and the other had been sent out by a vessel 
to the West Indies, to try the effect of climate upon 
it, and brought back on the return of the ship 
to that port. They were tasted by all present, and 
pronounced to be perfectly sweet, fresh and fit for 
use, after a lapse of 15 months. 

Besides its antiseptic use, this acid is employed, 
instead of acetate of lead (sugar of lead), by the 
calico printers, to make their acetate of alumine, 
or iron li(iuor. Though it is not sufliciently pure, 
it does well enough for blacks, browns, drabs, &c., 
but for yellows or reds it is not so good, owing to 
the oil and tar which is in combination with it. 



JS/ote by the American Editor. 
Most grocers, dealers in hams, and others who 
are particular in their meat, usually take the pre- 
caution to case each one after it is smoked iu can- 



156 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



vas, for the purpose of defending it from the at- 
tacks of the little insect (the dermestes lardariiis), 
which, by laying its eggs in it, soon fills it with its 
larvas, or maggots. Tliis troublesome and expen- 
sive process may be altogether superseded by the 
use of the pyroligneous acid. With a painter's brush 
dipped in the liquid, one man, in the course of a day, 
may effectually secure two hundred Iiams from all 
danger. Care should be taken to insinuate the li- 
quid into all the cracKs &c. of the under surface. 
To make strong acetous acid. 

Take of vitriol, calcined to whiteness, 1 lb. sugar 
of lead, 10 drachms. Rub together and distil. 

Another. — Take of verdigris, 2 lbs. Dry it in a 
water-bath, then distil in a sand-heat, and re-distil 
the produce liquor. Its specific gravity is about 
1,050. 

Another. — ^Take of sugar of lead, 7 lbs. oil of 
vitriol, 4^ lbs. Distil 2J lbs. This is used lo make 
aromatic vinegar. 

The strength of distilled acetous acids is exam- 
ined by Tailor^s Revenue Acetometer, wiiich con- 
sists in saturating a sample of the acid with slaked 
lime, and then ascertaining the specific quantity 
of the solution. The best malt vinegar, No. 24, 
contains about five per cent, real acetous acid, and 
is taken as tlie standard or proof acid, 200 grai^is of 
which will saturate 29 grains of well crystallized 
subcarbonate of soda. The best common distilled 
vinegar is about half this strength, 'ihi- pyrolig- 
neous acid may be procured of any degree of con- 
centration, from 6 degrees, or 2,S98 per cent, of 
acid, up to 130 deg. or 6,309 per c»nt. of acid, or 
even higher. Dr Powell states, that a fluid ounce 
of the London College distilled vinegar ouglit to 
dissolve at least 13 grains of white marble, or 39.67 
grains of crystallized subcarbonate of soda, tliat is 
6 deg. of thtJ Revenue Acetometer. Acetic acid, 
containing 45 per cent, of real acid, dissolves cam- 
plior and the essential oils very readily. 
Acid of ants. 

Take of ants, 1 lb. boiling water, 4 lbs. Infuse 
for three hours, press out the liquor, and strain. 
This is an excellent stimulant, and is used as a lo- 
tion in impotency. 

Honey -water for the hair. 

Take of honey, 4 lbs. very diy sand, 2 lbs. 
Mix and put into a vessel that will hold five times 
as much; distil with a gentle heat a yellowish acid 
water: this acid greatly encourages tlie growth of 
hair. 

Spint of salt, or marine acid. 

Take of common salt, 10 lbs. common clay, 20 
lbs. water sufficient to make them into balls. Dis- 
til while moist, with a violent heat, and rectify by 
re-distillation. 

Another method. — Take of dried common salt, 
24 lbs. oil of vitriol, 20 lbs. water, 6 lbs. Mix and 
distil into 12 lbs. more of water, kept cool; when 
distilled in an iron pot with a stone-ware head, all 
the water is put into the receivers. A bottle, that 
holds 6 oz. of water, ought to hold 7 oz. of this 
acid, and an ounce measure of it should dissolve 3 
drachms and 2 scruples of limestone, which will 
shew if it is free from oil of vitriol. 



Strong spirit of nitre. 
Take of nitre 6 lbs. oil ot vitriol 4 lbs. 



Distil 



to dryness. A bottle, that holds 4 oz. of water, 
ought to hold 6 oz. of this acid, and an ounce mea- 
sure of it, diluted with water, should dissolve 7 
drachms of limestone. 

Another. — Take of nitre 1 lb. clay or brickdust, 
4 lbs. Mix and distil. 

Colourless spirit of nitre. 

Take of nitre, veiy pure, and dried, oil of vitri- 
ol, each 2 lbs. Distil till red fumes appear; re- 
distil from nitre, 1 oz. This will produce 4 lbs. 



. Double aqua-fortis. 

Take of spirit of nitre, 3 lbs. water 2 lbs. Or 
a sufficient quantity that a bottle holding 6 ounces 
of water shall hold 8 ounces of this acid. 

Another. — Take of green vitriol, calcined al- 
most to redness, of nitre, each equal portions. 
Distil. 

Com?non aqua-fortis. 

Take of nitre, and green vitriol, not calcined, 
each 6 lbs. green vitriol, calcined, 3 lbs. Distil. 

Another. — Take of spirit of nitre, and distilled 
water, of each equal poi'tions, by weight. A bot- 
tle that holds 6^ oz. of water should hold 8 oz. of 
this acid. 

Simple aqna-fortis. 

Take of green vitriol 2 lbs. nitre, 1 lb. Distil. 

Another. — Take of spirit of nitre, 2 lbs. water, 
3 lbs. or a sufficient quantity that a boltle holding 
4^ oz. of water should hold 5 oz. of this acid. 

Th(. stronger kinds of this acid are used as a 
caustic for warts, &c. particularly by fari-iers, for 
which the addition of oil of vitriol is an advantage. 
The accidental mixture of spirit of salt, arising 
from impurities in the nitre, maj' be got rid of by 
dissolving refined sugar in S(mie of tlie acid, pom*- 
ing off the clear, and dropping it into the remain- 
der as long as any precipitate takes place. 
Aqua regia. 

Take of spirit of nitre, 16 oz. common salt, 4 
oz. Dissolve. 

Another. — Take of spirit of nitre, 16 oz. sal am- 
moniac, 4 oz. Dissolve. 

Common aqua regia. 

Take of spirit of salt, 2 lbs. spirit of nitre, 1 lb. 
This will dissolve gold. 

JJephlogisticated spirit of salt. 

I'ake of common salt, 3 lbs. mjuiganese, 1 lb 
oil of vitriol, 2 lbs. water, 1 lb. Distil, placing a 
sufficient quantity of water in the receiver. 

This spirit is of a pale greeni.sh yellow, and 
scarcely heavier than water. It bleaches linen, 
straw, and takes out fruit spots, iron moulds, or 
ink marks. 



MISCELLANEOUS BEVERAGES. 

To make ginger beer. 

Take of good Jamaica ginger, 2-J oz. moist su- 
gar, 3 lbs. cream of tartar, 1 oz. the juice and pcel 
of two middling sized lemons, brandy, ^ pint, good 
solid ale yeast, ^ pint, water, 3^ gallons. This 
will produce 4^ dozen of excellent ginger beer, 
which will keep twelve months. Bruise the gin- 
ger and sugar, and boil them for 20 or 25 minutes 
in the water, slice the lemon and put it and the 
cream of tartar into a large pan; pciu" the boiling 
liijuor upon them, stir it well round, and when 
milk warm, add the yeast; cover it over, let it re- 
main two or three days to work, skimming it fre- 
quently; then strain it through a jelly-bag into a 
cask, add the brandy, bung down very close, and 
at the end of a fortnight or three weeks, draw it 
off and bottle, and cork very tight; tie the cork 
down with twine or wire. If it does not work well 
at first, add a little more yeast, but be careful of ad- 
ding too much lest it taste ot it. 
Spmce beer. 

Take, if white is intended, 6 lbs. of su^ar; if 
brown, as much treacle, and a pot of spruce, and 
ten gallons of water. 

This is also managed in the same way as ginger 
beer, except that.it should be bottled as soon tis it 
has done working. 

JSroiun .spruce beer. 

Pour 8 gallons of cold water into a barrel, and 
tliea boiling 8 gallons more, put tliat in also; add 



DISTELLATIOX. 



167 



12 lbs. of molasses, with about i lb. of the essence 
of spruce; and on its getting a little cooler, ^ a pint 
of good ale yeast. The whole being well stirred 
or rolled in the barrel, must be left with the bung 
OUL for two or three days; after which the liquor 
may be immediately bottled, well corked up, and 
packed in saw-diist or sand, when it will be ripe, 
and fit to drink in a fortnight. 

Remember that it should be drawn off into quart 
stone bottles, and wired. 

White spruce beer. 

For a cask of 6 gallons, mix well together | lb. 
of the purest essence of spruce, 7 lbs. of loaf sugar 
made into a clarified syrup, and about 1^ gallons 
of hot water; and when sufficiently stirred and in- 
corporated, put it into the cask, and fill up with 
cold water. Then add about Jf of a pint of good 
ale yeast, shake the cask well, ami let it work for 
3 or 4 days; after which bung it up. In a few days 
it rcav be bottled off after the usual manner, and in 
a week or ten days it will be fit for use. If, on 
bunging it close, abnut ^ of an oz. of isinglass, first 
dissolved in a little of the warmed liquor, or in ci- 
der, be stirred in, by way of fining, it will acquire 
a superior degree of clearness. In proportion to 
the coldness of the weather, the quantity of yeast 
should be increased. Some, instead of yeast, use 
ale or beer-grounds the first time of making, and 
afterwt-rds the grounds of their former spruce 
beer. In warm weather, very little ferment is re- 
quisite. 

Seltzer xoater. 

Take of water any quantity. Impregnate it with 
about ten times its volume of carbonic acid gas, by 
means of a forcing pump. 

Liquid Magnesia. 

Take of water, 1 gallon, carbonate of magnesia, 
3 drachms, and impregnate it as above. 
Potass -water. 

Take one ounce of subcarbonate of potass, and 
impregnate as above. 

Soda ivater. 

Take 2 ounces of subcarbonate of soda, and im- 
pregnate as above. 

Portable lemonade. 

Take of tartaric acid, ^ oz. loaf sugar 3 oz. es- 
sence of lemon, A drachm. Powder the tartaric 
acid, and the sugar very fine, in a marble or wedge- 
wood mortar, (observe never to use a metal one) 
mix them together, and pour the essence of lemon 
upon them, by a few drops at a time, stirring the 
mixture after each addition, till the whole is added, 
then mix them thoroughly, and divide it into 12 
equal parts, wrapping each up separately in a piece 
of white paper. When wanted for use, it is only 
necessary to dissolve it in a tumbler of cold water, 
and fine lemonade will be obtained, containing the 
flavour of the juice and peel of the lemon, and ready 
sweetened. 

JVntritious dietetic composition. 

Pulverize equal quantities of sago and patent 
cocoa; mix them, and stir a table-spoonful in a 
pint of milk, to which now add a pint of boiling 
water. Boil the whole for a few minutes, fre- 
quently stirring. Sugar to be added according to 
taste. This breakfast, with bread and butter, &c. 
&c. suits children and adults. 

Sassafras cocoa. 

The fruit of the sassafras-'tree is highly esteem- 
ed in many parts of South America, as a nutritious 
article of diet. 

Its substance is the same as that of cocoa; and, 
by means of heat, is convertible into chocolate; but 
m this process, its aromatic quality is dissipatet^. 
This nut, in a ground state, is employed in the 
same manner as cocoa or coffee, by boiling it in 
water or milk: but, on account of its aromatic qua- 



lity being very volatile, it requires to be boiled in 
a pot with a close cover, and not for so long a time 
as is requisite for cocoa. Its aromatic virtue ren- 
ders it very pleasant to the palate, and agreeable 
to the stomach; and, at the same time, possessing 
the well-known correcting properties of the sassa- 
fras root, and the nutritious virtues of cocoa, it be- 
comes a valuable article of diet to a great variety 
of invalids. It has been fourd to recruit exhausted 
strength more rapidly than either cocoa, chocolate, 
or any farinaceous substances, and to sit lighter on 
the stomach than either animal or vegetable jellies. 
To make chocolate. 

Roast the cocoa in a frying pan, placed on a 
clear fire; and having afterwards cleared them of 
the husks, the nuts must be first powdered coarse- 
ly, and afterwards beaten in an iron mortar, the 
bottom of which is made pretty hot, by placing it 
on. the fire, till the whole runs into a thick kind of 
oil. In this state it must be poured into thin 
moulds of any size or shape that is agreeable; and, 
when cold, ilie cakes may be taken out for use. 
The Spaniards mix with their cocoa nuts too great 
a quantity of cloves and cinnamon, besides other 
drugs without number, as musk, ambergris, &;c. 
The Parisians use few or none of these ingredients: 
they only choose the best nuts, which are called 
caracca, from the place from whence they are 
brought; and with these they mix a very small 
quantity of cinnamon, the freshest vanilla, and the 
finest stigar, but very seldom any cloves. Choco- 
late, fresh froni the mill, as it cools in the tin pans 
into which it is received, becomes strongly electri- 
cal: and retains this property for some ti..Te after it 
has been turned out of the pans, but soon loses it 
by handling. The power may be once or twice 
renewed by melting it again in an iron ladle, and 
pouring it into the tin pans as at first; but when it 
becomes diy and powdery, the power is not capa- 
ble of being revived by simple melting: but, if a 
small quantity of olive oil be added, and well mix- 
ed with the chocolate in the ladle, its electricity 
will be completely restored by cooling it in the tin 
pan as before. 

Another method. — As the pleasantness of choco- 
late depends, in a great measure, on the method of 
preparing it for the table, it is necessary that the 
strictest attention be paid to the following simple 
direction. To make this chocolate, put the milk 
and water on to boil; then scrape the chocolate fine, 
from one to two squares to a pint, to suit the sto- 
mach; when the milk and water boils, take it off 
the fire; throw in the chocolate; mill it well, and 
serve it up with the froth; which process will not 
take 5 minutes. The sugar m^y either be put ia 
with the scraped chocolate or added afterwards. It 
should never be made before it is wanted; because 
heating again injures the flavour, destroys the 
froth, and separates the body of the chocolate; the 
oil of the nut being observed, after a few minutes' 
boiling, or even standing long by the fire, to rise 
to the top, which is t>\e only cause why this choco- 
late can offend the most delicate stomach. 
To make native tea. 

The infusion of good well-made meadow hay in 
boiling water, in the manner of tea, about three 
quarters of an ounce for two or three persons, is a 
beverage for the fasting and evening refection, as 
much superior to the dried leaves of China, as 
golfl or silver are superior to copper and lead. 

This native tea is as healthful as it is grateful to 
the palate; it is saccharine and aromatic, instead of 
bitter and empyreumatic; it is stimulating to the 
spirits in the morning, and composing to the 
nerves at night; it is anti-bilious, and acts with a 
mild, but sensible eftect, at first, on all the secre- 
tions, promotes digestion, and ci"eates appetite. 



158 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



Substitute far tea. 

In consequerce of the injurious effects on the 
itomach and nervous system, producetl by the 
leaves of the oriental shrub imported into this 
country, under the name of tea, mixtures of Bri- 
tish herbs have been recommended as a substitute 
for tea and coffee for breakfast, and an evening re- 
past. An infusion of the following composition, 
lately i-eeommended by an eminent physician of 
Edinburgh, has since been found more pleasant to 
the palate, and more salubrious as an article of 
diet, than either of the compositions of herbs. It 
is an excellent nervous stomachic, and iu cases of 
indigestion, or wliat is termed "bilious affec- 
tions" arising either from debility or nervous ir- 
ritability, U has proved highly beneficial after sto- 
machic bitters had entirely failed. It has, lilce- 
■wise, this important advantage over tonic medi- 
cines, and foreign tea and coffee, that its long con- 
tinued use will not injure the stomach; but, on the 
contrary, by keeping up healthy digestion, and by 
quieting the nerves, is likely to prevent the orga- 
nic diseases of the stomach, which of late years 
have apparently increased in Europe. 

Take of the heels of unfolded petals of the red- 
rose, dried, 5 parts, rosemary leaves, do. 1 do. 
balm leaves, do. 2 do. Mix. 

Adessertspoonful of this composition is sufficient 
for half a pint of infusion. It is made in the same 
manner as tea, with sugar and cream, or milk. It 
is sold at 2s. and 'dd. a pound, — one pound will go 
as far as two pounds of tea. 

Another. — In Germany the leaves of strawberry 
flowers are substituted for green tea. The follow- 
ing are the directions for preparing them. The 
leaves with the flowers are to be gathered in the 
spring, while they are young, and only the smooth- 
est and cleanest leaves selected, as they are not to 
be washed. They must be dried in the air, but 
not in the sun, as drying them in the sun would 
lessen their flavour. To these leaves the Germans 
give the appearance t>f China tea, oy first pinching 
tlieir stalks clean off, then warming the leaves 
over the fire, rolling them up in the hand while 
they remain flexible, and drying them thus rolled. 
When the leaves are thorougVily dried, the tea is 
fit for use, and on being made exactly in the same 
manner as China green tea, it is hardly possible to 
discover the difference. The young and tender 
leaves of the sloe tree or black thorn, when dried, 
afford a good substitute for foreign tea. 

Substitute for coffee, cocoa, &c. 

The ground sassafras nut is an excellent substi- 
tute for coffee, cocoa, &c. for breakfast and sup- 
per. It is not onlv nutritious, but a more effica- 
cious corrector of the habit, in cases of eruptions 
of the skin and scrofula, than the sassafras wood, 
or the compound decoction of sarsaparilla. As a 
powerful preventive of cutaneous aftections, it is 
particularly valuable. It is also an excellent ai-ti- 
de of diet for rheumatic, gouty, and asthmatic in- 
valids. 

Another. — In America the leaves of the herb, 
commonly called labradore (ledum lilifolia) are 
generally used for breakfast, instead of the Chi- 
nese tea. It is a grateful aromatic bitter, and is 
highly salutary and invigorating. It might easily 
be cultivated in this country, and would flourish 
best in poor light soils. 

Other substitutes for tea and coffee. 

The ill effects of drinking much tea and coffee 
*re numerous: they relax the nervous system, and 
ire some of the causes which occasion the palsy. 
'Joffee is made of the roasted berries of a foreign 
plant, of an astringent quality. Tea is made of the 
Heaves of an exotic plant, of a relaxing quality. 
Coffee and tea have a pleasant taste, when mixed 



with sugar and milk; and, used in moderation, are 
harmless to those who have plenty of cream or 
new milk to mix with them. Tea is now the universal 
breakfast in England; but poor people can only af- 
ford to buy the worst sort, ^vhich is frequently 
adulterated. That tea affects tiic nerves, is evi- 
dent from its preventing sleep, occasioning giddi- 
ness and dimness of sight; it is bad for persons 
troubled with wind or bile. 

The raspings of bread will make equally as good 
a breakfast as Mr Hunt's powder, and is perfectly 
wholesome. Any person may make this substitute 
for coffee or tea, without being subjected to a fine, 
as no law can be made to prevent people from 
using their bread in any form they please. All 
well-baked bread has a hard crust, mostly of a 
scorched dark colour: — with a bread rasp or gra- 
ter, rub the crust off, which will then appear nearly 
like ground coffee. Three or four table spoonsful 
of this powder are sufficient when mixed with su- 
gar and a little milk, if it can be had, to make a 
liquid for breakfast for one person. Put the bread 
powder into water, let it boil a few minutes, and 
it will be fit for use. 

Milk and water and a little sugar are more 
wholesome for breakfast, than tea or coffee. Take 
one-fourth part of a pint of milk, and mix it with 
three quarters of a pint of water, add as much su- 
gar as will make it as sweet as milk, boil it, and 
pour it into a basin upon some bread cut small. To 
make herb tea, take dried balm, mint, and agri- 
mony, in equal quantities, with a little sage and 
I'osemary, if they can be got; cut them small, and 
use them in the same manner as tea. Water gruel 
is more nourishing and wholesome than tea or 
coffee. 

Anotlier. — Beech mast, or the beech tree, which 
is an oily farinaceous nut, and was used in diet, ii> 
an early age, may be used as a substitute for cof- 
fee when roasted. Well dried, it makes a whole- 
some bread, and, in this condition, it has served 
for subsistence in times of scarcity; it is now, 
however, used only for fattening hogs, poultt-y, &c. 

A great quantity of oil may be separated from 
the beech mast, by expression. In France it is 
procured in large quantities, and used at table, in- 
stead of olive oil. It possesses an advantage whicli 
the latter has not, of keeping a long time without 
turning rancid. 

Another. — Roast any quantity of horse beans ia 
a clean frying pan, over a clear fire till they begin 
to darken in colour, and then from the point of a 
knife, continue putting small bits of honey among 
them, stirring them all the while till they become 
of a deep chesnut brown. On taking them off the 
fire, to a quart of beans immediately put an ounce 
of cassia-buds into the pan, and stir them about till 
they get cool. After being ground in the manner 
of coffee, few persons will detect the difference. 

Rye torrefied with a few almonds, which furnish 
the necessary proportion of oil, may also be em- 
ployed as a substitute for coffee. Wheat may be 
substituted for beans. 

Anothei\ — The yellow beet root, when sliced and 
dried in a kiln, and especially if ground with a 
small quantity of Turkey or West India coffee, 
will furnish an excellent substitute for either. 1^ 
requires much less sugar than foreign coffee, and 
is somewhat stronger. Those who cultivate it 
should not strip the plant of its leaves for feeding 
cattle, as is generally practised, for this will injure 
the growth of the plant, and materially alter the 
qualities of the juice. 

To 7nake acorn coffee. 

A pleasant beverage is drank in Germany, called 
the acorn coffee, and is made as follows: 

Take sound ripe acorns, pe^l off the shell or 



DISTILLATION. 



159 



husk, divide the kernels, dry them gradually, and 
then roast them in a close vessel, or roaster, keep- 
ing tliem convinually stirring. Care must be taken 
not to burn or roast them too much. Take of these 
roasted accrns, ground like other coffee, half an 
ounce alone, or mixed with a drachm of other cof- 
fee, an<l sweeten with sugar, with or without milk. 

Acorns have always been esteemed a wholesome 
ind strengthenJng nutinment for man, and their 
medicinal qualities have been found to cure the 
slimy obstructions of the viscera, and to remove 
nervous complaints, when other medicines have 
failed — for though acorns are looked upon to be so 
great an astringent as to be sparingly used, either 
externally or internally, by being roasted, they 
lose their astringent quality, and hence have no 
more that effect than coffee. This coffee is also 
particular!)^ efficacious with respect to women 
whose complaints arise from disorders peculiar to 
their sex. 

Aiiother method. — As the acorn is deficient of 
the oleaginous prmciples inherent to coffee, this 
may be remedied by the following process, and the 
fruit of the oak may be then recommended. Let 
the acorns be toasted brown, then add fresh butter, 
in small pieces to them, while hot, in the ladle. 
Stir tliera with care, or cover the ladle and shake 
it, that the whole may be well mixed. 
To make coffee. 

The best coffee is imported from Mocha. It is 
said to owe much of its superior quality to being 
kept long; attention to the following circumstances 
is likewise necessaiy. 1. The plant should be 
grown in a dry situation and climate. 2. The ber- 
ries ought to be thoroughly ripe before they are 
gathered. 3. They ought to be well dried in the 
iun; and 4. Kept at a distance from any substance, 
'as spirits, spices, dried fish, Stc. ) by which the 
taste and flavour of the berry may be injured. 

To drink coffee in perfection, it should be made 
from the best Mocha berries, carefully roasted, and 
after cooling for a few minutes, reduced to powder, 
*nd immediately infused; the tincture will then be 
of a superior description. But for common use, 
the coffee of our own plantations is, in general, of 
eery good quality, and the following mode of pre- 
paring it may be adopted. 

1. The berries should be carefully roasted, by a 
gradual application of heat, scorching,but not burn- 
ing them. 

2. Grinding the coffee has been found preferable 
to pounding, because the latter process is thought 
to press out, and leave on the sides of the mortar, 
some of the richer oily substances, which are not 
lost by grinding. 

3. A filtrating tin, or silver pot, with double 
sides, between which hot water must be poured, to 
prevent the coffee from cooling, as practised in 
Germany, is the best machine to be used. Simple 
infusion in this implement, with boihng water, is 
all that is required to make a cup of good coffee; 
and the use of isinglass, the white of eggs, &c. to 
fine the liquor is quite unnecessary. By this 
means, also, coffee is made quicker than tea. 

In England, too little powder of the beriy is 
commonly given. It requires about one small cup 
of coffee-powder to make four cups of tincture for 
the table. This is at the rate of an ounce of good 
powder to four common coffee cups. When the 
powder is put in the bag, as many cups of boiling 
water are poured over it as may be wanted, and if 
the quantity wanted is very small, so that after it 
IS filtrated it dees not reach the lower end of tlie 
aag, the liquor must be potu-ed back three or four 
times, till it has acquired the necessary strength. 

By following these plain directions, it is to be 
hoped that a wholesome and valuable production 



of our own colonies will come mto more general 
use; and that foreigners will no longer have any 
ground to assert, that they very rarely meet with a 
cup of tolerable coffee in England. 

Another method. — Pour a pint of boiling water 
en an ounce of coffee; let it boil five or six minutes, 
then pour out a cupful two or three times, and re- 
tiu'n it again; put two or three isinglass chips into 
it, or a lump or two of fii.e sugar; "boil it five mi- 
nutes longer, set the pot by the fire to keep hot 
for ten minutes, and the coffee will be beautifully 
clear. Some like a small bit of vanilla. Cream 
should always be served with coHee, and either 
])ounded sugar candy, or fine Lisbon sugar. For 
foreigners, or those who like it extremely strong, 
make only eight dishes from three ounces. If not 
fresh roasted, lay it before a fire till hot and dry; 
or put the smallest bit of fresh butter into a pre- 
serving pan, when hot throw the coflee into it, and 
toss it about till it be freshened. 

Coffee most certainly promotes watchfulness; or, 
in other words, it suspends the inclination to sleep. 
To those, therefore, who wish not to be subject to 
this inclination, coffee is undoubtedly preferable to 
wine, after dinner, or perhaps to any other liquor. 

Were coffee substituted instead of wine imme- 
diately after dinner, it seems more than probable 
that many advantages would flow from it, both to 
the health of individuals and general economj'; and 
it seems not improbable that by deferring coffee, 
or tea, so late as is usually practised, we interrupt 
digestion, and add a new load of matter to that al- 
ready in the stomach, which, after a full meal, is 
not a matter of indifference. 

Persons afflicted with asthma have found great 
relief and even a cure, by drinking vei-y strong 
coffee, and those of a phlegmatic habit would do 
well to take it for breakfast. It is rather of a dry- 
ing nature, and with corpulent habits it would also 
be advisable to take it for breakfast. 

Arabian method of preparing coffee. 

The Arabians, when they take their coffee off 
the fire, immediately wrap the vessel in a wet 
cloth, which fines the liquor instantly, makes it 
cream at the top, and occasions a more pungent 
steam, which they take great pleasure in snuffing 
up as the coffee is pouring into the cups. They, 
like all other nations of the East, drink their coffee 
without sugar. 

People of the first fashion use nothing but Sulta- 
na coffee, which is prepared in the following man- 
ner. Bruise the outward husk or dried pulp, and 
put it into an iron or earthen pan, which is placed 
upon a charcoal fire; then keep stirring it to and 
fro, until it becomes a little brown, but not of so 
deep a colour as common coffee; then throw it into 
boiling water, adding at least the fourth part of the 
inward husks, which is then boiled altogether in 
the manner of other coffee. The husks must be 
kept in a very dry .place, and packed up very close, 
for the least humidity spoils the flavour. The li- 
quor prepared in this manner is esteemed prefera- 
ble to any other. The French, when they were at 
the court of the king of Yemen, saw no other cof- 
fee drank, and theyfound the flavour of it very de- 
licate and agreeable; there was no occasion to use 
sugar, as it had no bitter taste to correct. 

In all probability the Sultana coffee can only be 
made where the tree grows; for as the husks have 
littl_ substance, if they are too much dried, in or- 
der to send them to other countries, th^- ■'srieeable 
flavour they had when fresh, is greatij ^u.^^aired. 
Improvement in maki?ig coffee. 

The process consists in simmering over a small 
but steady flame of a lamp. To accomplish this, a 
vessel of peculiar construction is requisite: it should 
be a straight-sided pot, as wide at top a£ at bottom, 



60 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



and inclosed in a case of similar shape; to which 
it must be soldered air tight at the top. The case 
to be above an inch wider than the pot, and dt- 
scending; somewhat less than an inch below it. Jt 
should 1)6 entirely open at the bottom, thus admit- 
ting and confining a body of hot air round and un- 
derneath the pot. The lid to be douMe, and the 
vessel, of course, furnished with a convenient han- 
dle and spout. 

The extract may be made, either with hot water 
or cold. If wanted for speedy use, hot water, not 
actually boiling, will be proper, and the pov/dered 
coffee being added, close the lid tight, stop the 
spout with a cork, and place the vessel over the 
»amp. It will soon bt;g;i.i to simmer, and may re- 
main unattended, till tiie coffee is wanted. It may 
then be strained through a bag of stout, close li- 
nen, which will transmit the liquid so perfectly 
clear as not to contain .he smallest particle of the 
powder. 

Though a fountain lamp is preferable, any of 
the common small lamps, seen in every tin shop, 
will answer the purpose. P ire spermaceti oil is 
required, and if the wick be too high, or the oil 
not good, the consequence will be smoke, soot, 
and e.xtinction. The wick should be little more 
than one eighth of an inch high. In this process, 
no trimming or other attention is required. It may 
be left to simmer, and will continue simmering all 
night, without boiling over, and without any sen- 
sible diminution of quantity. 

Parisian method oftnaking coffee. 

In the first place, let the coflee be of prime quali- 
ty, — grain, small, round, hard and clear; perfectly 
dry an J sweet; and at least tlirec years old — let it 
be gently roasted until it be of a light brown co- 
lour; avoid burning, for a single scorciied grain 
will spoil a pound. Let this operation be perform- 
ed at tiie moment the coffee is to be used; then 
grind it while it is yet warm, and take of the pow- 
der an ounce for each cup intended to be made; 
put this along with a small quantity of shredded 
saffron into the upper part of the machine, called 
^ grecqiie; that is, h large coffee pot with an upper 
receptacle made to fit close into it, the bottom of 
. which is perforated with small holes, and cotitain- 
ing in its interior two moveable metal strainers, 
over the second of which the powder is to be plac- 
ed, and immediately under the third; upon this up- 
per strainer, pour boiling water and continue doing 
so gently until it bubbles up through the strainer; 
then shut the cover of the machine close down, 
place it near the fire, and so soon as tlie water has 
drained through the coft'ee, repeat the operation 
until the whole intended quantity be passed. — 
Thus all the fragrance of its perfume will be re- 
tained, with all the balsamic and stimulating pow- 
ers of its essence; and in a few moments will be 
obtained — without the aid of hartshorn shavings, 
isinglass, whites of eggs, or any of the trash with 
which, in the common mode of preparation, it is 
mixed — a beverage for the gods. This is the true 
Parisian mode of preparing coffee; the invention 
of it is due to M. de Belloy, nephaw to the Cardi- 
nal of the same name. 

Coffee milk. 

Boil a dessert spoonful of ground coffee in about 
t pint of milk, a quarter of an hour; then put into 
■t a shaving or two of isinglass, and clear it; let it 
!ioil a few minutes, and set it on the side Ci the 
Sre to fine. This is a very fine breakfast, and 
should be sweetened with real Lisbon sugar. 

Those of a spare habit, and disposed towards af- 
fections of the lungs, would do well to make this 
their breakfast. 

To make raum. 

Mum is a tmd of malt liquor, much drunk in 



Germany and formerly lu England. The name 
commonly occurs in the statutes relating to excise- 
able liquors. 

Take 63 gallons of water that has been boiled 
into a third part, brew it with seven bushels of 
wh latened malt, one bushel of oat malt, and one 
bushel of ground beans; when it has worked or 
fermented awhile in a hogshead not too full, put 
into it of inner rind of fir, 3 lbs., tops of fir and 
birch, 1 lb., carduus benedictus, 3 handsful, flow- 
ers from solis, a hand or two; burnet, betony mar- 
joram, pennyroyal, wild thyme, of each a handful; 
of elder flowers, two handsful, seeds of cardamom, 
bruised, 30 ounces; barberries, bruised, 1 ounce. 

When the liquor has done working, fill it up, 
and at last, put into the hogshead 10 new laid eggs; 
stop it up close, and in two years it will be fit foi 
use. 



MUCILAGINOUS OILS, 



To make oil of s'uaeet, almonds. 

I: is usually made from bitter almonds for cheap 
ness, or from old Jordan almonds by heat, the oil 
from which soon grows rank, while that from fresh 
Barbary almonds, drawn cold, will keep good for 
some time. The almonds are sometimes blanched 
by dipping in boiling water or by soaking some 
hours in cold water, so as to part with their skin 
easily; but are more usually ground to a paste, 
which is put into canvas bags, and pressed between 
iron plates, in a screw press, or by means of a 
wedge; 1 cwt. of bitter almon<is unblanched, pro- 
duces 46 lbs. of oil; the cake pays for pressing. 
JYut oil 

Is obtained from the kernel of the hazel nut, and 
is very fine; it is substituted for oil o! ban; as it 
will keep better than that of almonds, it has been 
proposed to be substituted for that oil; it is drank 
with tea, in China, probably in lieu of cream, and 
is used by painters, as a superior vehicle for their 
colours. 

Oil of mace 

Is obtained from nutmegs by the press; it is but- 
tery, having the smell and colour of mace, but 
grows paler and harder by age; 2 lbs. of nutmegs 
in Europe will yield 6 oz. of this oil. 

Tnie oil of mace by expression. 

This oil is red, remains always liquid, or soft, 
has a strong smell of mace, sub-acid taste, and is 
imported in jars or bottles, the lower part being 
rather thicker than the top; l^ lbs. of mace will 
yield in Europe an ounce and a half, troy, of oil. 
Olive, salad, or sweet oil. 

This is the most agreeable of all the oils; it is 
demulcent, emollient, gently laxative, and is also 
used as an emetic with warm water; dose, 1 oz. 
troy, or a large spoonful: also externally, when 
warm, to the bites of serpents, and when cold, to 
tumours and dropsies. Rank oil is best for plas- 
ters: but fresh oil makes the best hard soap. 
Castor oil. 

This is either imported from the West Indies, 
where it is obtained by decoction with water, 10 
lbs. of seeds yielding 1 lb. of oil; or from the East 
Indies, where it is obtained by grinding in a mor- 
tar, with a hole in the side for the supernatant oil to 
run oft', being in common use there for lamp oil. Or, 
that made at home by the press, which is the best, 
especially some that is prepared from cold blanch- 
ed seeds, with the eye taken out. Some cliemists 
are said to take out the colour from the foreign oils, 
by certain additions, and sell them for English, or, 
as it is called, cold drawn castor oil. The virosity 
communicated to the oil by the eyes of the seeds 
may be got rid of by washing the oil with boiling 



DISTn.LATlON. * 



161 



wnter, or with weak oil of vitriol. It is soluble in 
warm spirit of wine, and its adulteration may thus 
!;e discovered, if thought necessaiy; but as all the 
fat oils have nearly similar qualities, the taste is 
sufficient for practical purposes. It is purgative in 
<!osas of from l-'i an oz. to 1 ]-i2 oz. floated on 
some distilled water, or on wine; or if it does not 
usually stay well on the stomach, on some tincture 
of senna; or made into an emulsion with yolk of 
egg, and a little distilled water, with 20 drops of 
lavender, and a tea-spoonful of simple syrup; it 
may also be used in clysters. It is pai'ticularly use- 
ful where a stimulant would be hurtful; as it ope- 
rates quickly v.'ithout disturbing tlie system; also 
externally in swelling pains. Contrary to most me- 
•licmes, on frequent repetition a less dose is suffi- 
jient. 

Oil ofcroton. 
This oil is extracted from Molucca grains, or 
durgiiig nuts. In its chemical qualities it agrees 
vitb castor oil, but is considerably more active, as 
» single drop, when the oil is genuine, is a xjower- 
^il cathartic. 

Rape oil. 
This is made from rape seed; it dries slowly, 
iiiakesbuta softish soap, fit for ointments: the mu- 
silage it contains may be got rid of, in a great mea- 
sure, by adding half an ounce of oil of vitriol to 
iwo pints of t!ie oil. 

To pirify rape oil. 
The following is a simple method of rendering 
•.ipe oil equal to spermaceti oil, for the purposes 
»f illumination. 

Begin by washing the oil with spring water: 
nhich is effected by agitating the oil violently with 
ft sixth part of the water. This separates the par- 
ticles of the oil, and mixes those of the water inti- 
mately with them. After this operation, it Jooks 
like the yolk of eggs beat up. In less than forty- 
eight hours they separate completely, the oil swim- 
ming at the top, the water, with all feculent and 
bxtraneous ])articles, subsiding to tlie bottom. This 
may be very much improved, by substituting sea- 
water in the place of fresh water. 
By the process of wf>shing, the oil does not lose 

1 hundredth part. The experiment can at all 
times be made in a glass decanter, or in a churn, 
with a cock at the bottom, the water to come up 
vei-y near to the cock, by which all the oil can be 
drawn off, after it has deposited its impurities. 

Jlnother method. — To 100 parts of oil add 1^ or 

2 of concentrated sulphuric acid, and mix the wliole 
well by agitation, when the oil will become turbid, 
and of a blackish-green colour. In about three 
quarters of an hour, the colouring matter will be- 
gin to collect in clots; the agitation should then be 
discontinued, and clean water, twice the weight of 
the sulphuric acid, be added. To mix the water 
with the oil and acid, a further agitation of half an 
hour will be requisite. The mass may, afterwards, 
be left to clarify for eight days, at the end of 
which time three separate fluids will be perceived 
in the vessel; the upper is the clear oil, the next is 
tiie sulphuric acid and water, and the lowest, a 
black mud or fecula. Let the oil then be separat- 
ed by a syphon from the acid and water, and fil- 
trate(i through cotton or wool; it will be neai'ly 
without colour, smell, or taste, and will burn 
clearly and quietly to the last drop. 

To purify vegetable oil. 
To 100 pounds of oil, add 25 ounces of roche 
alum, and mix, dissolved in 9 pounds of boiling 
water. After stirring it about half an hour, add 15 
ounces of nitric acid, still continuing to stir it. 
Let it stand forty-eight hours, wlien the fine oil will 
swim on the surface, and then draw it off. Such 
oil is used all over the continent, and an equal 

V 



quantity yields double the light of wliale and fish 
oil, without its offensive odour. 

To make pumpkin oil. 

From the seeds of tlie pumpkin, which are gene- 
rally thrown away, an abun(lance of an excellent 
oil may be extracted. When peeled, they yield 
much more oil than an equal quantity of flax. This 
oil burns well, gives a lively light, lasts longer 
than other oils, and emits veiy little smoke. It 
has been used on the continent for frying fish, &c. 
The cake remaining after the extraction of the oil 
may be given to cattle, who eat it with avidity. 
Jieech nut oil. 

Beech nuts are not only an excellent food for 
pigs, but they are known to yield an oil, fit for com- 
mon purposes, by the usual methods of extraction. 
To extract oil from grape stones. 

In Italy an u^ful oil is drawn from tlie grape 
stones. In order to separate the seeds from the 
husks and refuse matter, the mash is put into s 
bucket with some water, and worked about with 
the hands, until the seeds, from their superior 
weight, have fallen to the bottom of the vessel. 
They are then to be removed and dried in the sun, 
or by any other way, as soon as possible; when a 
sufficient quantity is collected, the whole is to be 
ground in the same kind of mill that is used for 
hemp and cole-seed: being then cold drawn, a fine 
oil is procured, which is scarcely distinguishable 
from common olive oil. Tlie refuse matter, being 
scalded in a little hot water, yields a fresh portion 
of oil, tliough of an inferior quality, which burns 
excellently well in a lamp, giving out no unplea- 
sant odour, and very little smoke. By taking the 
loppings or prunings of the vine, excellent vinegar 
may be made from the same, and even wine with 
the aid of sugar. 



ANIMAL OILS AND FATS. 

ffog^s lard. 

This is obtained like the rest of the animal tats 
from the raw lard, by chopping it fine, or rather 
rolling it out to break the cells in which the fat is 
lodged, and then melting the fat in a water bath, 
or other gentle heat, and straining it whil^ warm; 
some boil them in water; but the iats, thus obtain 
ed, are apt to grow rank much sooner than when 
melted by tnemselves. 

J\,''eat's feet or trotter oil. 

Obtained by boii.ag neat's feet, tripe, &c. in 
water; it is a coarse animal oil, very emollient, and 
much used to soften leather. 

7'o purify trotter oil. 

Put 1 quart of trotter oil into a vessel containing 
a quart of rose-water, and set them over a fire till 
the oil melts and mixes with the rosewater. Stir 
well with a spoon. When properly combined, 
take the vessel from the fire, and let it cool. Now 
take off the oil with a spoon, and add rose-water, 
as before. When the oil is again separated and 
cleansed, set it in a cool place. The principal use 
of trotter oil is for the making of cold cream, in 
which its qualities exceed those of every other oiL 
' I 'o prepare oil from yolks of eggs. 

Boil the eggs hard, and after separating the 
whites break the yolks into two or three pieces, 
and roast them in a frying pan till the oil begins to 
exude; then press them with very great force. 
Fifty eggs yield about 5 ounces of oil. Old eggs 
yield the greatest quantity. . 

Jlnother method. — Dilute the raw yolks with a 
large proportion of water, and add spirit of wine 
to separate the albumen, when the oil will rise on 
the top after standing some time, and thus may be 
separatc<l by a funnel. 



1G2 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



To refine spermaceti. 

Spermaceti is usually brought home in casks; 
and, in some cases, has so little oil mixed with it 
as to obtain the denomination oi head matter. It 
is of the consistence of a stiff ointment, of a yel- 
lowish colour, and not tenacious. Besides the 
head matter, there is also a qnantity of sperm ob- 
tained from the oil by filtration. Indeed, in all 
good spermaceti lamp oil, which is not transp&rent, 
particles of the spei-m may be seen floating. 

Having the head-matter, or filtered sperm, in 
order to purify it, first put it into hair cloths, and 
with an iron plate between each cloth, to the num- 
ber of half a dozen, or more, submit it to the ac- 
tion of an iron screw-press; and, as the oil does 
not separate very readily, it will, in general, be ne- 
cessary to let the cakes of sperm be pressed three 
different times. Tiie third time the cakes will be- 
come so dry that they may be broken in small 
pieces with little trouble, and then put in a furnace 
containing l-3d water, and 2-3(ls cake. Let the 
fire be raised sufficiently under the furnace to melt 
the cake, which it will do before the water begins 
to boil: after which, boil the whole together for 
about half an hour, taking off, during the boiling, 
what scum and other extraneous bodies rise to the 
top; then let the wlule be dipped out into a tub, or 
other coolers. After it is completely cold, take off 
ihe cake of spermaceti, which will be on the top of 
the water, and cut it into pieces. Suppose, for ex- 
ample, that the cake weighs one hundred weight. 
It will be necessary to have a furnace, or rather a 
moveable kettle, where the light is thrown in sueli 
a way that the process can be observed. Having 
taken one hundred weight of the unrefined sper- 
maceti, prepared as above, melt it together with 
about 3 gallons of water. As soon as it begins to 
boil, add, from time to time, small portions of the 
following liquor, say half a pint at a time: — Take 
of the alkaline salt, or pot-ash, 7 pounds. Pour on 
it 2 gallons of water; let them stand together twen- 
ty-four hours, and from the top dip off the ley as 
wanted, adding more water occasionally till the al- 
kali IS exhausted. After boiling the spermaceti 
for about four hours, having during the process ta- 
ken off the scum as it arose, let the kettle be re- 
moved from the fire, and after remaining about a 
quarter of an hour, dip off the spermaceti into 
suitable coolers. This process must, in general, 
be repeated three times. The third time, if the 
processes have been properly conducted, the sper- 
maceti will be as clear as cry~ al; and then, after it 
is cool, the only thing necessary to make it fit for 
sale, is to cut it into moderately small j)ieces, 
when it will break into that fiakey appearance 
which it has in the shops. 

To sweeten, purify, and refine Greenland tvhale 
and seal oil. 

The oil, in its raw state, is filtered through bags, 
about 41 inches long, with circular mouths, ex- 
tended by a wooden hoop, about 15 inches in dia- 
meter, fixed thereto. These bags are made of jean, 
lined with flannel; between which jean and flannel 
powdered charcoal is placed, throughout, to a re- 
gular thickness of about half an inch, forthe purpose 
of retaining the glutinous particles of the oil, and 
straining it from impurities; and the bags are 
quilted, to prevent the charcoal from becoming 
thicker in one part than another, and to keep the 
linings more compact. The oil is pumped into a 
large funnel, made of tin, annexed to the pump 
through a perpendicular pipe, and passed from the 
funnel into another pipe placed over the bags hori- 
zontally, from whence it is introduced into them 
by cocks. The oil runs from the filtering hags in- 
to a cistern, about 8 feet long by 4 feet broad, and 
4^ deep, made of wood, and Jined with lead, and 



containing water at the bottom, about the depth of 
5 or inches, in which are dissolved about 6 ounces 
of blue vitriol, for the ])nrpose of drawing down 
the glutinous and offensive particles of the oil, 
which have escaped through the charcoal, and 
thereby rendering it clean and free from the un- 
pleasant smell attendant upon the oil in the iaw 
state; and, in order to enable the cjil thus to run 
from the bags, tliey are hung in a frame or rack, 
made like a ladder, with the spokes or rails at suf- 
ficient distances to receive the hoop of the bag be- 
tween two; and such frame or rack is ^ilaced in a 
horizontal position over the cistern. Tlie oil i.s 
suffered to run into the cistern until it stands to 
the depth of about 2 feet in the water, and there to 
remain for 3 or 4 days, (according to the quality of 
the oil), and is then drawn off by a cock, which ig 
fixed in the cistern a little above the water, into a 
tub or other vessel, when it will be found to be 
considerably purified and refined, and the oil, after 
having undergone this operation, may be rendered 
still more pure, by passing a second or third time 
through similar bags and cisterns. But the oil, al- 
ter such second and third process, is drawn off into, 
and filtered tlirough, additional bags, made of 
jean, lined with flannel, inclosed in other bags, 
made of jean, doubled, when the process is corn- 
l)lete. 

To purify fish oils, and apply the refuse to usefui 
purposes. 

The object of this invention is the refining not 
only of fish-oil, but of the oils obtained from all 
animal sul)stances, and also from expressed vege- 
tables. The mode of performing this is by mixing 
the oil vi'ith an infusion of tannin. Mr Speers, of 
Dublin, recommends tlie tannin of oak-bark, but 
any tannin, whether natural from oak or other 
barks, or artificial, will answer the purpose. The 
mode which he prefers is the following: Take equal 
quantities of oil and soft water; in the water infuse 
and agitate for a day or two about one-tenth part of 
its weight of tannin; it is then to be drawn off fine, 
and the oil and water to be mixed and boiled for 
some time, and then set by to cool. The tannin 
will, by means of chemical attraction, unite with 
the gelatine or mucilage, and, being heavier than 
oil, will sink below it; but being lighter than water 
it will swim above it; in other words, this refuse 
matter will be found between the oil and the water. 
The oil is first to be drawn off and then the refuse 
matter may be obtained. Tliis matter may be ap- 
plied to the formation of cements and stucco; or to 
the composition of paints and varnishes; or to the 
composition of an excellent blacking for leather, 
which will by that means be made water-proof. 

Another method. — A method of purifying com- 
mon fish-oil, and rendering it equal to the best 
sperm oil, by the use of animal charcoal, has late- 
ly been discovered in Denmark. The description 
is very incomplete, but mentions that beef bones, 
which have been boiled, are made into animal char- 
coal in a peculiar way. The charcoal is mixed with 
the oil, and repeatedly agitated for two months, 
after which it is filtered through several strata of 
charcoal, and used as soon as made. The quantity 
of gas evolved by the bones in the operation is con- 
siderable, and is used for lighting the manufactoi^ 
and adjacent buildings. The residuum is mixed 
with clay for fuel. The loss in this process is es- 
timated at 15 per cent., and the gain is equal to 40 
per cent., leaving a balance in favour of the dis- 
covery of 25 per cent. 

The peculiar method of making the charcoal, 
probablv consists in not heating the bones too much. 
It is well known by the animal charcoal makers in 
London, that if the temperature be raised too high, 
the charcoal is worth nothing. 



COOItERY. 



U J 



Another. — Take a gallon of crude stinking oil, 
nd mix with it a quarter ot an ounce of powdered 
■ halk, a quarter of an ounce of lime, slaked in the 
air, and half a pint of water; stir them together; 
and -when they have stood some hours, add a pint 
of water, and two ounces of pearl-ashes, and place 
the mixture over a fire that will just keep it sim- 
mering, till tlie oil appears of a light amber co- 
lour, and has lost all smell, except a hot, greasy, 
soap-like scent. Then superadd half a pint of wa- 
ter in which one ounce of salt has been dissolved, 
and having hoiled it half an hour, pour the mix- 
ture into a proper vessel, and let it stand for some 
days, till the oil and water separate. 

If this operation be repeated several times, di- 
minishing each time the quantity of ingredients 
one inalf, the oil may be brouglit to a very light 
colour, and be rendered equally sweet with the 
common spermaceti oil. 

Oil purified in this manner is found to burn 
much better, and to answer better the purposes of 
the woollen manufacture. If an oil be wanted thick- 
er and more unctuous, this may be rendered so by 
tne addition of tallow or fat. 



To frrepare oils for the manufacture, of hard soap. 
Let the oil be ground in a mill, "along with a 
quantity of fine new-slaked lime, till itTjecomes of 
the consistence of thick cream: this being; done, let 
an iron pan be filled one-eighth full of this mix- 
ture, to which is to be added an equal quantity of 
uuprepai'ed oil, the whole being well stirred to- 
gether. A brisk fire is now to be made under the 
pan, the contents of which will soon swell to the 
top, and afterwards subside; the fire and stirring 
must, however, be still kept up, till the mixture 
begins to swell and boil a second time, emitting 
thick clouds of steam; another portion of oil is now 
to be added and stirred briskly in, till this ebulli- 
tion is suppressed; the lime oeing now united to 
the oil, the mass, when cold, will be of the consist- 
ence of wax. To make hard soap with the oil thua 
prepared, let tallow, rosin, grease, or unprepared 
oil, be added in the proportion of one half, and 
melted, to which add a ley, made of mineral al- 
kali. When a perfect combination has taken place, 
by boiling and stirring, let the soap be taken out, 
and cleansed into frames: from which thei'e will 
be, as usual, a small discharge of impure ley, after 
which the soap is ref.dy for use. 



dUILlH^HT J^WSB. 



COOKERY. 

To boil meats, &c. 
This most simple of culinary processes is not 
often performed in perfection, though it does not 
require so much nicety and attendance as roasting; 
to skim the pot well, and to keep it moderately 
boiling, and to know liow long the joint requires, 
comprehends the most useful point of this branch 
of cookery. The cook must take especial care that 
the water really boils all the while she is cooking, 
or she will be deceived in the time. An adept cook 
will manage with much less fire for boiling than 
she uses for roasting, and to last all the time with- 
out much mending. When the water is coming 
to a boil there will always rise from the cleanest 
meat a scum to the top, this must be carefully taken 
otF as soon as it appears, for on this depends the 
good appearance of a boiled dinner. When you 
have skimmed it well, put in a little cold water, 
which will throw up the rest of it. If let alone, it 
soon boils down and sticks to the meat, which, in- 
stead of looking; white and healthful, will have a 

1 • • • 
coarse and uninvitmg appearance. 

Many cooks put in milk to make what they boil 
look white, but this does more harm than good; 
otliers wrap the meal in a cloth; but if it is well 
skimmed it will have a much more delicate ap- 
pearance than when it is muffled up. 

Put the meat into cold water in the proportion 
of about a quart to every pound of meat; it should 
remain covered during the whole process of boil- 
ing, but only just so. Water beyond what is ab- 
solutely necessaiy renders the meat less savoury 
and weakens the broth. 

The water should be gradually heated accord- 
ing to the thickness, &c. of the article boiled; for 
instance, a leg of mutton of 10 lbs. weight should 
be placed over a moderate fire, which will gradu- 
ally heat the water without causing it to boil, for ; 
•ibont forty minutes. If the water boils much ' 



sooner, the meat will be hardened, and shnnk up 
as if it were scorched. Reckon the time from its 
P.rst coming to a boil; the slower it boils the ten- 
derer, the plumper, and whiter it will be. For 
those who choose their food thoroughly cooked, 
twenty minutes to a pound will not be found too 
much for gentle simmering by the side of the fire. 
Fresh killed meat will take much longer lime 
boiling than that which has been kept till what the 
butchers call ripe; if it be fresh killed it will be 
tough and hard if stewed ever so long, and ever so 
gently. The size of the boiling pots should be 
adapted to what they are to contain; in small fa- 
milies we recommend block tin sauce-pans, Szc. as 
lightest and safest, taking care that the covers fit 
close, otherwise the introduction of smoke maybe 
the means of giving the meat a bad taste. Beef and 
mutton a little underdone is not a great fauU, but 
lamb, pork, and veal are uneatable and truly un- 
wholesome, if not thoroughly boiled. Take care 
of the liquor in which poultry or mieat has been 
boiled, as an addition of peas, herbs, &c. will con- 
vert it into a nourishing soup. 

To bake meats, &c. 

This is one of the cheap"st and most convenient 
ways of dressing a dinner in small families, ami 
although the general superiority of roasting must 
be allowed, still certain joints and dishes, such as 
legs and loins of pork, legs and shoulders of mut- 
ton, and fillets of veal, will bake to great advan- 
tage, if the meat be good. Besides those joints 
above mentioned, we shall enumerate a few baked 
dishes which may be particularly recommended. 

A pig when sent to the baker prepared for bak- 
ing, should have its ears and tail covered with but- 
tered paper, and a bit of butter tied up in a piece 
of linen to baste the back with, otherwise it will be 
apt to blister. If well baked it is considered equal 
to a roasted one. 

A goose prepared the same as for roasting, or a 



1G4 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



duck placed upon a stand and turned, as soon as one 
side is done, upon tlie other, are equally good. 

A buttock of beef, prepared as fallows, is par- 
ticularly fine: after it has been put in salt about a 
week, let it be well washed and put into a br;"'n 
earthen pan with a pint of water; cover the pjn 
tight over with 2 or 3 thicknesses of cap paper, and 
give it four or five hours in a moderately heated 
oven. 

A ham, if not too old, put in soak for an hour, ta- 
ken out and baked in a moderately heated oven, 
cuts fuller of gravy, and of a finer flavour than a 
boiled one. 

Cod fish, haddock, and mackarel, should have a 
dust of flour and some bits of butter spread over 
them. Eels when large and stuffed, herrings and 
sprats, are put in a brown yjan, with vinegar and a 
little spice, and tied over with paper. 

A hare, prepared the same as for roasting, with 
a few bits of batter and a little milk, put into the 
dish and basted several times, will be found nearly 
equal to roasting: in the same manner legs and 
shins of beef will be equally good with proper ve- 
getable seasoning. 

7 roast meats, &c. 

The first thing requisite for roasting is to have a 
strong steady fire, or a clear brisk one, according 
to the size and weight of the joint that is put down 
to the spit. A cook, who does not attend to this, 
will prove herself totally incompetent to roast vic- 
tuals properly. All roasting should be done open 
to the air, to ventilate the meat from its gross 
fumes, otherwise it becomes baked instead of roast- 
ed. The joint should be put down at such a dis- 
tance from the fire as to imbibe the heat rather 
Muickly, otherwise its plumpness and good qualitj' 
will be gradually dried up, and it will turn shriv- 
elly, and look meagre. When the meat is first put 
down, it is necessary to see that it balances well 
on the spit, otherwise the process of cooking will 
l>ej,very troublesome. When it is warm, begin to 
baste it well, which prevents the nutritive juices 
escaping; and, if required, additional dripping must 
be used for that purpose. 

As to sprinkling with salt while roasting, most 
able cooks dispense with it, as the penetrating par- 
ticles of the salt have a tendency to draw out the 
animal juices; however, a little salt throwa on, 
when first laid down, is sometimes necessary, with 
strong meats. When the smoke draws towards 
the fire, and the dropping of the clear gravy begins, 
it is a sure sign that tlie joint is nearly done. 
Then take off the paper, baste well, and dredge it 
with flour, which brings on that beautiful brown- 
ness which makes roasted meats look so inviting. 

With regard to the time iiecessai7 for roasting 
various meats, it will vary according to the differ- 
ent sorts, the time it has been kept, and the tempe- 
rature of the weather. In summer, 20 minutes may 
be reckoned equal to half an hour in winter. A 
good skreen, to keep off the chilling currents of air, 
IS essentially useful, 'l he old housewife's rule is 
to allow rather mere than aquarter of an hour to 
each pound, and in most instances it proves prac- 
tically correct. 

In roasting mutton or lamb, the lorn, the chine, 
and the saddle, must have the skin raised, and 
skewered on; and, when nearly done, take ofi'this 
skin, and baste and flour to froth it up. 

Veal requires roasting brown, and if a fillet or 
loin... be sure to paper the fat, that as little of it 
may be lost as possible. When tiearly done, baste 
it wiih butter and dredge with flour. 

Pork should be well done. When roasting a loin, 
e.Mi the skin across with a sharp knife, othei'vvise 
llie crackling is very awkward to manage. Stuff 
llje knuckle part with sage and onion, and skewer 



it up. Put a little drawn g^avy in the dish, and 
serve it up with apple sauce in a turene. A spare- 
rib should be basted with a little butter, a little 
dust of flour, and some sage and oaions shred 
small. Apple sauce is the only one which suits this 
dish. 

Wild fowls require a clear brisk fire, and should 
be roasted till they are of a light brown, but not 
too much; yet it is a common fault to roast them 
till the gravy runs out, thereby losing their fine 
flavour. 

Tame fowls require more roasting, as the heat is 
longer in penetrating: they should be often basted, 
in order to keep up a strong froth, and to improve 
their plumpness. 

Pigs and geese should be thoroughly roasted be- 
fore a good fire, and turned quickly. 

Hares and rabbits require time and eare, espe- 
cially to have the ends sufficiently done, and to re- 
medy that vA\f discolouring at the neck, &c. v/hich 
proves often so objectionable at table. 
To regulate time in cookery. 

JWutton. — A leg of 8 lbs. will require two hours 
and a half. A chine or saddle of 10 or 11 lbs. two 
hours and a half. A shoulder of 7 lbs. one hour 
and a half. A loin of 7 lbs. one hour and three 
quarters. A neck and breast, about the same time 
as a loin. 

Beef. — The surloin of 15 lbs. from three hours 
and three-quarters to four hours. liibs of beef 
from 1.5 to 20 lbs. will take three hours to three 
hours and a half. 

Veal. — A fillet from ^2 to 16 lbs. will take from 
four to five hours, at a good fire. A loin, upon the 
average, will take three hours. A shoulder, from' 
three hours to three hours and a half. A neck, two 
hours. A breast, from an hour and a half to two 
hours. 

Lamb. — Hind quarter of 8 lbs. will take from an 
hour and three-quarters to two hours. Fore-quar- 
ter of 10 lbs. abrut two hours. Leg of 5 lbs. from 
an iiour and a quarter to an hour and a half. Shoul- 
der, or breast, with a quick fire, an hour. 

Pork. — A leg of 8 lbs. will require about three 
hours. Griskin, an hour and a half A spare-rib 
of 8 or 9 lbs. will take from two hours and a half 
to three hi irs, to roast it thoroughly. A bald 
spare-rib of 8 lbs. an hour and a quarter. A loin of 
5 ll)s. if very fat, from two hours to two hours and 
a half. A sucking pig, of three weeks old, about 
an hour and a half. 

Poultry. — A very large turkey will require about 
three hours; one of 10 lbs. two hours; a small one 
an hour and a half. 

A full-grown fowl,' an hour and aquarter; a mo- 
derate .sized one, an hour. 

A pullet, from half an hour to 40 minutes. 

A goose, full grown, from an hour and a half to 
two hours. 

A green goose, 40 minutes. 

A duck, full size, from 30 to 50 minutes. 

Venison. — A buck haunch which weighs from 20 
to 25 lbs. will take about four hours and a half 
roasting: one from 12 to 18 lbs. will take three 
hours and a quarter. 

To broil. 

This culinary branch is very confined, but excel- 
lent as respects chops or steaks; to cook which in 
perfection, the fire should be clear and brisk, and 
the grid-iron set on it slanting, to prevent the fat 
dropping in it. In addition, quick and frequent 
turning will ensure good flavour in the taste of the 
article cooked. 

To fry meats, &c. 

Be always careful to keep the frying-pan clean, 
and see that it is properly tinned. When fryinjr 
any sort of fish, first dry them in a cloth, and then 



COOIvERY. 



165 



Sour them. Put into the pan plenty of dripping, 
or host's lard, and let it be boiling hot before put- 
ting in the fish. Butter is not so good for the pur- 
pose, as it is apt to burn and blacken, and make 
them soft. When they are fried, put them in a 
dish, or hair sieve, to drain, before they are sent 
to table. Olive oil is the best article for frying, 
but it is very expensive, and bad oil spoils every 
thing that is dressed with it. Steaks and chops 
should be put in when the liquor is hot, and done 
quickly, of a light brown and turned often. Sau- 
sages should be done gradually, which will prevent 
their bursting. 

To make a savoury dish of veal. 

Cut some large scollops from a leg of veal, 
spread them on a dresser, dip them in rich egg bat- 
ter; season them with cloves, mace, nutmeg, and 
pepper beaten fine; make force-meat with some of 
the veal, some beef suet, oysters chopped, sweet 
herbs shred fine; strew all these over the eollops, 
roll and tie them up, put them on skewers and 
roast them. To the rest of the force-meat, add 
two raw eggs, roll them in balls and fry them. Put 
them into the dish with the meat when roasted: 
and make the sauce with strong broth, an anchovy 
or a slialot, a little white wine and some spice. Let 
it stew, and thicken it with a piece of butter rolled 
in flour. Pour the sauce into the dish, lay the 
meat in with the force-meat balls, and garnish with 
lemon. 

Lamb''s kidneys, au vi7u 

Cut your kidneys lengthways, but not through, 
put four or five on a skewer, lay them on a grid- 
iron, over clear, lively coals, pouring the red gravy 
into a bowl each time they are turned; five minutes 
on the grid-iron will do. Take them up, cut them 
in pieces, put them into a pan with the gravy you 
have saved, a large lump of butter, with pepper, 
salt, a pinch of flour, glass of Madeira, (champagne 
is better) fry the whole for two minutes, and serve 
very hot. 

To dress afoxvl •with the favour of game. 

Cut the meat of a long-kept rabbit in thin slices; 
lay them on a dish, and season with pepper and 
salt, chopped parsley, chibol, shallots, and a little 
fine oil; split a fowl at the back, bone it all to the 
legs and wings, stuff" it with this, then sew it up, 
and give it its natural form; brace it with slices of 
veal and liam, covered over with slices of bacon; 
soak it about a quarter of an hour, then add a glass 
of white wine, a little broth, a faggot, pepper and 
salt; when done, sift and skim the sauce, add a lit- 
tle cuUis, and serve up the fowl. 

To make artificial eggs and bacon. 

Make clear blancmange in a white dish, cut it 
into rounds with the top of a tea-cup, and laj"^ them 
on the dish on which it is to be served; make yel- 
low Dutch flummery, run it into a small tea-cup, 
in the form of the yolk of an egg, and place one on 
each round of the blancmange. Cut six straight 
pieces of blancmange, on which lay three streaks 
of preserved damsons, and serve all on the same 
dish. 

Breast of veal, glacee. 

Cut your breast as square as possible; bone it, 
and draw the cut pieces together with a thread; put 
it into a pan with a ladle of veal bouillon, cover it 
with slices of salt pork and a buttered paper, pre- 
viously adding two carrots in bits, four onions in 
ilices, two bay leaves, two cloves, pepper and salt; 
»ut some coals on the lid as well as below; when 
two-thirds done take out the vegetables, reduce 
rour gravy to jelly, turn your meat, and set on the 
eover till done; it takes in all two hours and a half 
over a very gentle fire. 

Shoulder en galantine. 

Koiie a fat, fleshy shoulder of veal, cut off the 



ragged pieces to make your stuffing, viz. one pound 
of veal to one pound of s;ill pork minced extremely 
fine, well seasoned with salt, pepper, spices, and 
mixed with three eggs, spread a layer of this stuf- 
fing well minced over the whole shoulder to the 
deptli of an inch, over ttiis, mushrooms, slips of 
bacon, slices of tongue, and carrots in threads, co- 
ver tliis with stuffing as before, then another layer 
of mushrooms, bacon, t6ngue, &c. when all your 
stuffing is used, roll up your shoulder lengthways, 
tie it with a thread, cover it with slips of larding 
and tie it up in a clean wliite cloth; put into a ])iit 
the bones of the shoulder, two calves' feet, slips of 
bacon, six carrots, ten onions, one stuck with four 
cloves, four bay leaves, thyme, and a large faggot 
of parsley and shallots, moisten the whole w'ltli 
bouillon; put in your meat in tlie cloth and boil 
steadily for three hours. Try if it is done with .the 
larding needle; if so, take it up, press all the liquor 
from it, and set it by to grow cold; pass your jelly 
through a napkin, put two eggs in a pan, whip them 
well and pour the strained liquor on them, mixing 
both together, add peppercorns, a little of the foui 
spices, a bay leaf, thyme, parsley; let all boil gent- 
ly for half an hour, strain it through a napkin, put 
your shoulder on its dish, ])our the jelly over and 
serve cold. 

Shoulder of mutton. 

Bone the larger half of your shoulder, lard the 
inside with well seasoned larding, tie it up in the 
shape of a balloon, lay some slips of bacon in your 
pan, on them your meat, with three or four car- 
rots, five onions, three cloves, two bay leaves, 
thyme, and the bones that have been taken out, 
moisten with bouillon, set all on the fire and sim- 
mer for three hours and a half; garnish with small 
onions. 

Sheep's tongues. 

Fifteen tongues are svifficient for a dish; wash 
and clean them well, throw them into hot water 
for twenty minutes, wash them again in cold water, 
drain, dry and trim them neatly, lard them with 
seasoned larding and the sma'l needle, lay in your 
l)au slips of bacon, four carrots in pieces, four 
onions, one stuck with two cloves, slips of veal, 
two bay leaves, thyme, and a faggot of shallots and 
parsley; put your tongues in, cover them with slips 
of larding, moisten the whole with bouillon, and 
let it simmer five hours. 

'I'o make an excellent ragout of cold veal. 

Either a neck, loin, or fillet of veal will furnish 
this excellent ragout, with a very little expense or 
trouble. 

Cut the veal into handsome cutlets; put a piece 
of butter or clean dripping into a fryingpan; as soon 
as it is hot, flour and fry the veal of a light brown; 
take it out, and if you have no gravy read}', put a 
pint of boiling water into the fryingpan, give it a 
boil up for a minute, and strain it into a basin 
while you make some thickening in the following 
manner: — Put about an ounce of butter into a stew- 
pan; as soon as it melts, mix with it as much flour 
as will dry it up; stir it over the fire for a few mi- 
nutes, and graduallj' add to it the gravy you made 
in the fryingpan; let them simmer together for ten 
minutes {till thoroughly incorporated); season it 
with pepper, salt, a little mace, and a nineglass of 
mushroom catsup, or wine; strain it through a 
tammis, to the meat; and stew very gently till tiie 
meat is thoroughly warmed. If you have any ready 
boiled bacon, cut it in slices, and put it to warm 
with the meat. 

To make veal cake. 

Take the best end of a breast of veal, bone and 
cut it in three. pieces; take the yolks out of eight 
eggs boiled hard, and slice the whites, the yolks to 
be cut through the middle, two anchovies, a goou 



166 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT 3I00K. 



deal of parsley chopped fine, and some lean ham 
cut in thin slices; all tliese to be well seasoned se- 
parately with Cayenne, black pepper, salt, and a 
little nutmeg; have ready a mug, the size of the 
mtended cake, wtth a litile butter rubbed on it, put 
R layer of veal on the bottom, then a layer of egg 
and parsley, and ham to fancy; repeat it till all is 
in, lay the bones on the top, and let it be baked 
three or four hours, then take off" the bones, and 
press down the cake till quite cold. The mug must 
be dipped into warm water, and the cake turned 
out with great care, that the jelly may not be bro- 
ken which hangs round it. 

Portug^iese method of dressing a loin of pork. 

Steep it during an entire week in red wine, (cla- 
ret in preference) with a strong infusion of garlic 
and a little spice; then sprinkle it with fine herbs, 
envelope it in bay leaves, and bake it along with 
Seville oranges piqifes de girofie. 
To make dry devils. 

These are usually composed of the broiled legs 
and gizzards of poultry, fish bones, or biscuits, 
sauce piqjuinte. Mix equal parts of fine salt, Cay- 
enne pepper, and currie powder, with double the 
quantity of powder of truffles: dissect a brace of 
woodcocks rather under roasted, split the heads, 
subdivide tlie wings, &;c. &c. and powder the 
whole gently over with the mixture: crush the trail 
and brains along with the yolk of a hard boiled 
egg, a small portion of pounded mace, the grated 
peel of half a iemon, and half a spoonful of soy, 
until the ingredients be brought to the consistence 
of a fine paste; then add a table-spoonful of catsup, 
a full wine glass of Madeira, and the juice of two 
Seville oranges; throw the sauce, along with the 
birds, into a stew-dish, to be heated with s])irit of 
wine — cover close up — light the lamp — and keep 
gently simmering, and occasionally stirring, until 
die fiesh has imbibed the greater part of the liquid. 
When it is comi)leteiy saturated, pour in a small 
quantity of salad oil, stir all once more well to- 
gether, put out the light, and serve it round in- 
stantly. 

To make an olio. 

Boil in a broth pot, a fowl, a partridge, a small 
leg of mutton, five or six pounds of large slices of 
beef, and a knuckle of veal; soak all these without 
brotli for some time, turn the meat to give it a 
£;ood colour, and add boiling water: when it has 
boiled about an hour, add all sorts of best broth 
herbs; this broth, when good, is of a fine brown 
colour. 

To pot leg of beef. 

Boil a leg of beef till the meat will come off the 
bone easily; then mix it witli a cow heel, previous- 
ly cut into thin pieces, and season the whole with 
salt and spice: add a little of the liquor in which 
the leg of beef was boiled, put it into a cheese-vat, 
or cullender, or some other vessel that will let the 
li(iuor run off; place a very heavj' weight over it, 
and it will be ready for use in a day or two. It 
may be kept in souse made of bran boiled in wa- 
ter, with tlie addition of a little vinegar. 
To pot beef. 

Cut it small, add to it some melted butter, 2 an- 
chovies boned tnd wushed, and a little of the best 
pepper, beat fine. Put liiem into a marble mortar, 
and beat them well togetiier till the meat is yel- 
low; put it into pots and cover with clarified butter. 
'1 'o pot eels. 

Cut them in pieces about four inches long, sea- 
son with a little beaten inuce, nutmeg, pepper, salt, 
and a little sal prunella beaten fine. Lay them in 
a pan and pour as much clarified butter over as 
will cover it. Bake half an hour in a quick oven, 
till properly done. Then lay them on a coarse 
cloth to drain; when quite cold season them again 



the same way. Then take off the butter they were 
baked in clear from the gravy of the fish, and se» 
them in a dish before the fire. 

When melted, pour the butter over them and 
put by for use. 

Potted lobster or crab. 

This must be made with fine hen lobsters when 
full of spawn, boil them thoroughly, when cold, 
pick out all the solid meat, and pound it in a mor- 
tar, it is usual to add by degrees (a very little) fine- 
ly pounded mace, black or Cayenne pepper, salt, 
and, while pounding, a little butter. When the 
whole is well m.xed, and beat to the consistence 
of paste, press it down hard in a preserving-pot, 
pour clarified butter over it, and cover it with wet- 
ted bladder. 

To make Bologna sausages. 

Take a pound of beef suet, a pound of pork, a 
pound of bacon fat and lean, and a pound of beef 
and veal. Cut them very small. Take a handful 
of sage leaves chopped fine, with a few sweet herbs. 
Season pretty high with pepper and salt, take a 
large well-cleaned gut and fill it. Set on a sauce- 
pan of water, and when it boils, put it in, first 
pricking it to prevent its bursting. Boil it 1 hour. 
To make Oxford sausages. 

Take 1 lb. oi young pork, fat and lean, without 
skin or gristle, 1 lb. of beef suet, chopped fine to- 
gether; put in ^ lb. of grated bread, lialf the peel 
of a lemon shred, a nutmeg grated, 6 sage leaves 
chopped fine, a tea-spoonful of pepper, and 2 of 
salt, some thyme, savory, and marjoram, shred 
fine. Mix well together and put it close down in 
a pan till used. Roll them out the size of common 
sausages, and fry them in fresh butter of a fine 
brown, or broil them over a clear fire, and send 
theni to table hot. 

7'o make Epping sausages. 

Take 6 pounds of young pork, quite free from 
skin, gristle, or fat; cut it small, and beat it fine 
in a mortar. Chop 6 pounds of beef suet very fine, 
shred a liandful of sage leaves fine, spread the meat 
on a clean dresser, and shake the sage over it. 
Shred the rind of a lemon very fine, and throw it 
with sweet herbs on the meat. Grate two nutmegs, 
to which put a spoonful of pepper, and a large 
spoonful of salt. Throw the suet over, and mix 
all well together. Put it down close in the pot, 
and when used, roll it up with as much egg as 
will make it smootli. 

7 make savaloy^s. 

Take 3 pounds of young poi-k free from bone 
and skin; salt it with an ounce of salt-petre, and a 
pound of common salt for two days; chop it fine; 
put in 3 tea-spoonsful of pepper; a dozen sage 
leaves chopped fine, and a pound of grated bread; 
mix it well, fill the guts, and bake them half an 
hour in a slack oven: they are good eitlier hot or 
cold. 

To make beef a la mode. 

Take 11 pounds of the mouse buttock, or clod 
of beef, cut it into pieces of 3 or 4 ounces each; 
put 2 or 3 large onions, and 2 ounces of beef drip- 
ping into a large deep stew pan; as soon as it is 
quite hot, flour the meat, and put it into the stew 
pan; fill it sufficiently to cover the contents with 
water, and stir it continually with a wooden spoon; 
when it has been on a quarter of an hour, dredge 
it with flour, and keep doing so till it has been stir- 
red as much as will thicken it; then cover it with 
boiling water. Skim it when it boils, and put in 1 
drachm of black ground pepper, 2 of allspice, and 
4 bay leaves; set the pan by tlie side of the fire to 
stew slowly about four hours. This is at once a 
savoury and ecouoraical dish. 
JJoidUi. 

Take tlxe thin ends of pri«ie vibs: bubble thei£ 



COOKERY. 



167 



slowly with a little salt, pepper, 3 bay leaves, one 
nnion stuck with cloves, and a faggot of sweet 
herbs. Remove all the scum and bubble till a 
skewer will penetrate without force. 
BouilU — en matelotte. 

Peel a handful of small onions, fry them in but- 
ter tUl they are of a light bi-own, throw in a hand- 
ful of Hour, shake the pan well, add a glass of red 
wine, a pint of (bouillon) mace, salt, pejiper, 
thyme, and two hay leaves; bubble the whole geiU- 
Iv till the onions are tender, and pour it over slices 
of cold bouilli. — Set all in a sauce pan well cover- 
ed on hot ashes, to repose for 15 minutes. Take 
care it does not boil. 

Beefs tongue — aux champignons. 

Wash your tongue well and boil for half an 
hour; season some larding witli salt, pepper, all 
kinds of spice, shallots and chopped [)arsley; lard 
your tongue across; put it in a stew pan with a few 
slices of bacon and beef, carrots, onions, thyme, 3 
bay leaves, 3 cloves; cover with bouillon, and stew 
very gently for 4 hours; when done skin your 
tongue and cut it up lengthways in the middle and 
under pai't, but not ihrongh, so that you can bend 
it up and lay it on your dish in the shape of a 
heart. Have ready a quantity of button mush- 
rooms, fried in butter, with a sprinkle of lemon 
juice moistened with bouillon, and bubbled to a 
proper consistence. Pour it over your tongue and 
serve hot. 

JBeef—en daube. 

Prepare a round or rump as for beef a la mode, 
well larded with the largest needle; put it into 
your pot with a spoonful of lard. Set the pot on 
hot coals, dust it with flour, turn your beef till it 
is well browned on both sides; have ready a kettle 
of boiling water, cover your meat, add in bits six 
large onions, two bunches of carrots, and an egg 
plant in slices. Put on your lid and bubble slowly 
but steadily for four hoiu's (for 16 pounds of beef, 
longer if heavier) or till the "skewer will pass easi- 
ly into it. About half an hour before serving, 
throw in a pint of small mushrooms, season with 
pepper and salt, a dozen bay leaves, and all kinds 
of spice. Set your beef in a deep dish, and cover 
■with the sauce. 

Fish — en matelotte. 

Almost eveiy kind of fish answers for this dish. ' 
Scale, clean and cut them in j)ieces; put them into 
a pan with a handful of small onions previously 
fried xvhole, in butter, two bay leaves, a fagot of 
shallots and parsley, small mushrooms, thyme, bay 
leaves, fait and pepper; pour over the whole as 
much red wine as will cover it; set 3'our pan on a 
quick fire; when the wine is one half gone, mix a 
spoonful of flour with a laige lump of butter, roll 
it in little balls, and put them one by one into your 
sauce, stirring it the whole time. Arrange your 
fish handsomely on a deep dish, pour over the 
sauce, and garnish with slices of lemon. 
Flounders — a la creme. 

Scale, clean and wrap youf fish in a cloth, boil 
it gently in plenty of water well salted; when done 
drain it carefully without breaking, lay it on your 
dish and mask it with cream, or white onion 
sauce. 

Terapins. 

Plwnge them into boiling water till they are 
dead, take tliem out, pull oft' the outer skin and toe 
nails, wash them in warm water, and boil therr 
with a teaspoonful of salt to e.aeh middling sized 
terapin, till you can pinch the flesh from oft' the 
bone of the leg; turn them out of the shell into a 
dish, remove the sand-bag and gall, add the yolks 
of two eggs, cut up your meat, season pretty high 
■with equal parts -if black and cayenne pe[>per and 
•alt. Put all into your sauce pan, with the liquor 



they have given out in cutting up, but not a drop of 
water; add a (juarter of a pound of butter, witii a gill 
of madeira, to every two middle sized terrajjins; 
simmer gently till tender, closely covered, thicken 
with flour, and serve hot. 

Oysters to stew. 

Put your oysters witli all their liquor into a 
sauce pan; no water; to every dozen add a lump of 
butter size of a walnut, salt, black pepper, a blade 
of mace, two bay leaves; bul)ble tor five minutes, 
add a little cream, shake all well together, and 
turn them out, grating a little nutmeg on each oys- 
ter as it lies in the sauce. 

Oysters roasted very fine. 

Roast your oysters over a quick fire till they are 
done diy, but not scorched; turn them out on the 
plate of a blazer, without any of their liquor; add a 
large lump of butter. Set tlie pljte over the lamp 
when the butter is melted, add a gill of madeira, a 
little salt and cayenne. 

Chicken — an soliel. 

Raise the thighs of as many large young fowls tis 
you want, bone them, and have a large lump of 
butter melted in a frying pan, lay in your thighs 
with a little salt, pepper, a bay leaf, one onion, 
two cloves, and a bundle of shallots and parsley, 
put all over a quick fire till the meat is browned, 
then add a table-spoonful of flour, a ladle of hot 
bouillon, and a handful of buttered mushrooms; 
bubble for three quarters of an hour, carefully re- 
moving all the fat; take out your meat, throw away 
your onion, bay leaf, herbs, kc. beat and put in 
three yolks of eggs, pour the sauce over your fowl; 
when cold dip them well in the sauce, then in 
crumbs of bread, then in yolks of eggs beat and 
seasoned, more crumbs; fry them of a light brown 
in their sauce, drain, pile them in a circle, and 
fill the hollow with fried parsley. 
Duck — olive sauce. 

Truss your duck so as to be as round as possible, 
tie it up with thread and rub it with a lemon; have 
ready some slices of bacon, lay your duck on them, 
slices of bacon over the duck again; set your lid 
on, with hot embers on top, let all simmer 1 hour; 
have ready a pint of olives, cut cork screw fashion, 
so that when detached from tlie stem they Mill re- 
sume their original shape. Throw them into a pan 
with a cup of broth, a little essence of meats, a 
lump of veal jelly, and a little black pepper; boil 
for ten minutes over a quick fire, when reduced one 
half, [jOur it over your duck, garnish with large 
(pared) olives and sprigs of blanched celery. 
Wildfuiul — en salmis. 

Cut up a cold roast duck (wild), goose, brant or 
whatever it may be. Put into a bowl or soup 
plate, (to every bird) a dessert spoonful of well 
made mustard, a sprinkle of cav'enne and black 
pepper, with about a gill of red wine; mix them 
well together; set your pan on the fire with a lump 
of butter, when it melts add gradually the wine, 
&e. let it bubble a minute, put in your duck, and 
bubble it for a few minutes. If your duck has 
proved tough when first cooked, use a sai'oe pan, 
and let it bubble till tender, taking care there is 
enough gravy to keep it from burning. Serve on 
dry toast, veiy hot. 

Pig-eons — en compote. 

Pick, draw and truss four squabs, legs inside, 
tie them up with a thread, put a lump of butter in- 
to a pan, when melted a little flour, mix and make 
a browning; lay in some slices of salt poik, turn 
then for five minutes; put in your pigeons with a 
cup of bouillon, shake the pan frequently till it 
boils, add a handful of mushrooms and a faggot of 
shallots and parsley; skim it well; have reatly some 
small white onions fried in butter; when your 
birds are two-tliirds done, add them to your sauce, 



168 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



Bkim it again, pnt yonr birds in a deep dish, nnd 
pour over your sauce and garnisli with small boiled 
onions. 

Partridge — mix choux. 

Plieasants (so called in Pennsylvania) or par- 
tridges may be used indifferently. Pick, singe, 
draw and truss your birds neatly; lard them with 
seasoned larding if you have a needle, truss their 
feet inside, put them into a stew-pan with some 
slices of bacon, a large sausage, one pound of fat 
salt pork. Cover your birds with slips of bacon, 
add four onions, two cloves, six bay leaves; put in 
a blanched cabbage tied up, cover the whole with 
thin slips of bacon, add a ladle of broth and simmer 
two hours: take up your birds, drain and lay them 
on a hot plate, drain your cabbage, spread it hand- 
somely on a dish; on the cabbage arrange your 
birds, round it pieces of the ham and sausage al- 
ternately, have the gravy reduced to a proper tliick- 
ness by a quick fire, pour over your birds and 
serve hot. 

N. B. Fowls, pheasants, &c. are very good done 
in tl(e above way. 

Pigeon pie. 

Tiiiss half a dozen fi ne large pigeons as for stew- 
ing, season them witli pe})per and salt, and fill tliem 
with veal stuffing or some parsley chopped very 
fine, and a little pepper, salt, and three ounces of 
butter mixed together: lay at the bottom of the 
dish a rump steak of about a pound weight, cut 
into pieces and trimmed neatly, seasoned and beat 
out with a chopper; on it lay the pigeons, the yolks 
of three eggs boiled hard, and a gill of broth or 
water; wet the edge of the dish, and cover it over 
with pufF-pasie, wash it over with yolk of egg, and 
ornament it with leaves of paste, and the feet of 
the pigeons; bake it an hour and a half in a mode- 
rate heated oven: before it is sent to table make an 
aperture in the top, and pour in some good gravy 
quite hot. 

Giblet pie. 

Clean well, and half stew two or three sets of 
goose giblets; cut the leg in two, the wing and neck 
into three, and the grzzard into four pieces; pre- 
serve the liquor, and set the giblets by till cold, 
otnerwise the heat of the giblets will spoil the 
paste you cover the pie with: — then season the 
whole with black pepper and salt, and put them 
into a deep dish; cover it with paste, rub it over 
with yolk of egg, ornament and bake it an hour 
and a half in a moderate oven; in the meantime 
take the liquor the giblets were stewed in, skim 
it free from fat, put it over a fire in a clean stew- 
pan, thicken it a little with flour and butter, or 
flour and water, season it with pepper and salt, and 
the juice of half a lemon, add a few drops of brown- 
ing, strain it through a fine sieve, and when you 
take the pie from the oven, pour some of this into 
it through a funnel. Some lay in the bottom of 
the dish a mpderately thick rump steak: — if you 
have any cold game or poultry, cut it in pieces, 
and add it to the above. 

Hump steak pie. 

Cut three pounds of rump steak (that has been 
kept till tender) into pieces half as big as your 
hand, trim off all the skin, sinews, and every part 
which has not indisputable pretensions to be eaten, 
»nd beat them with a chopper. Chop very fine 
half a dozen eshallots, and mix them with half an 
ounce of pepper and salt mixed, strew some of the 
mixture at the bottom of the dish, then a layer of 
steak, then some more of the mixture, and so on 
till the dish is full; add half a gill of mushroom 
catsup, and the same quantity of gravy, or red 
wine, cover it as in the preceding receipt, and 
bake :t two Ixours. 



N, B. Large oysters, parboiled, bearded, and 
laid alternately with the steaks — their liquor,reduc- 
ed and substituted instead of the catsup and wine, 
will be a variety. 

Chicken pie. 

Parboil and then cut up neatly two young chick- 
ens; dry them, set them over a slow fire for a few 
minutes, have ready some veal stuffing or force- 
meat, lay it at the bottom of the dish, and place in 
the chickens upon it, and with it some pieces of 
dressed ham; cover it with paste, bake it from an 
hour and a half to two hours; when sent to table 
add seme good gravy, well seasoned and not too 
thick. 

Duck pie is made in like manner, only substi- 
tuting duck stuffing instead of the veal. 

N. B. The above may be put into a raised French 
crust, and baked; when done take off the top, and 
put a ragout of sweetbread to the chicken. 
Rabbit pie. 

Made in the same way, but make a forcemeat to 
cover the bottom of the dish, by pounding a quar- 
ter ])ound of boiled bacon with the livers of the 
rabbits; some pepper and salt, some pounded mace, 
some cl>oi)ped parsley, and a shallot, thoroughly 
beaten together; and you may lay some thin slices 
of ready dressed ham or bacon on the top of your 
rabbits. 

Raised French pie. 

Make about two pounds of flour into a paste, as 
directed, knead it well, and into the shape of a 
ball, press your thumb into the centre, and work 
it by .degrees into any shape (oval or round is the 
most general,) till about five inches high; put it on 
a sheet of paper, and fill it with coarse flour or 
bran; roll out a covering for it about the same tliick- 
ness as the sides; cement its sides with the yolk of 
egg; cut the edges quite even, and pinch it round 
with the finger and thumb; yolk of egg it over witli 
a paste brush, and ornament it in any way as fancy 
may direct, with the same kind of paste. Bake it 
of a fine brown colour, in a slow oven, and when 
done, cut out the top, remove the flour or bran, 
brush it quite clean, and fill it up witli a fricassee of 
chicken, rabbit, or any other entree most conve- 
nient. Send it to table with a napkin under. 
Raised havi pie. 

Soak four or five hours a small ham; wash and 
scrape it well; cut offthe knuckle, and boil it for 
half an hour; then take it up and trim it very neat- 
ly; take offthe rind and put it into an oval stew- 
pan, with a pint of Madeira or Sherry, and enough 
veal stock to cover it. Let it stew for f .'o hours, 
or till three parts done; take it out and bet it in a 
cold place; then raise a ^rust as m the foregoing re- 
ceipt, large enough to receive it; put in the ham, 
and round it the veal forcemeat; cover and orna- 
ment; it will tu,ke about one hour and a half to bake 
in a slow oven: when done take oft' the cover; glaze , 
the top, and 'pour round the following sauce, viz. 
Take the liquor the ham was stewed in; skim it 
free from fat; thicken with a little flour and butter 
mixed together, a few drops of browning, and some 
cayenne pepper. 

P. S. The above is, I think, a gcod waj' of dress- 
ing a small ham, and has a good effect cold for a 
supper. 

Raised pork pie. 

Make a raised crust, of a good size, with paste 
.'vbout four inches high; take the rind and chine 
bone from a loin of pork, cut it into chops, beat 
them with a chopper, season them with pepper and 
salt, and powdered sage, and fill your pie; put oi» 
the top and close it, and pinch it round the edge, 
rub it over with yolk of egg, and bake it two hours 
■vvith a paper over to prevent the crust from burMi- 



COOKEKY. 



169 



ing. 'NITien done, pour in some good gravy, with 
a little ready mixed mustard and a tea-spoont'ul of 
catsup. 

Eel pie. 

Take eels about half a pound each. — skin, vash, 
and trim off the fin with a pair of scissors, — cut 
them into pieces three inches lona;, season them 
with pepper and salt, and fill your dish, leaving 
out the heads and tails. Add a gill of veal brotli, 
cover it with paste, rub it over with a paste brush 
dipped in yolk of egg, ornament it with some of 
the same ])aste, bake it an hour, and when done, 
make a hole in the centre, and pour in the follow- 
ing sauce through a funnel: The trimmings boiled 
in half a pint ot" veal stock, seasoned with pepper 
and salt, a table-spoonful oi lemon juice, and thick- 
ened with flour and water, strained through a fine 
sieve; add it boiling hot. 

Raised lamb pie. 

Bone a loin of lamb, cut into cutlets, trim them 
verj' nicelv, and lay them in the bottom of a stew 
or frying jjan, with an ounce ot butter, a tea-spoon- 
ful of leinon juice, and some pepper and salt; put 
them over a fire, and turn them and put them to 
cool; then raise four or five small pies with paste, 
about the size of a tea-cup, put some veal force- 
meat at the bottom, and the cutlets upon it; roll out 
the top an eighth of an i'uch thick, close and pinch 
the edges, bake them half an houv, and when done, 
take off the top, and pour in some good brown 
sauce. 

Beefsteak pudding. 

Get rump steaks, not too thick, beat them with 
a chopper, cut them into pieces about half the size 
of your hand, and trim off all the skin, sinews, 
8tc.; have ready an onion peeled and chopped fine, 
•ikewise some potatoes peeled and cvit into slices, 
a quarter of an inch thick, rub the inside of a ba- 
sin or an oval plain mould with butter, sheet it 
with paste as directed for boiled puddings; season 
the sle.iks with pepper, salt, and a little grated 
nutmeg; put in a layer of steak, then another of 
potatoes, a;id so on till it is full, occasionally throw- 
ing in part of the chopped onion; — add to it half a 
gill of mushroom catsup, a table-spoonful of lemon 
pickle, and half a gill of water or veal broth; roll 
out a top, and close it well to prevent the water 
getting in; rinse a clean cloth in hot water, sjirin- 
kle a liltle flour over it, and tie up the pudding, 
have ready a large pot of water boiling, put it in, 
anu boil it two hours and a half, take it up, remove 
the cloth, turn it downwards in a deep dish, and 
when wanted take away the basin or mould. 
Vol an vent. 

Roll ofi" tart paste till about the eighth of an inch 
thick; then with a tin cutter made for that purpose, 
(about the size of the bottom of the dish you in- 
tend sending to table,) cut out the shape, anil lay 
it on a baking plate with paper, rub it over with 
yolk of egg; roll out good puff paste an inch thick, 
stamp it with the same cutter, and lay it on the 
tart paste, then take a cutter two sizes smaller, and 
press it in the centre nearly through the puff paste; 
— rub tile top with yolk of egg, and bake it in a 
quick oven about twenty minutes, of a light brown 
colour: when done take out the paste insicie the 
centre mark, preserving the top, put it on a dish 
in a warm place, and when wanted, fill it with a 
white frif ssee of chicken, rabbit, ragout of sweet- 
bread, or any other entree you wish. 
To make a French stetu of green peas and bacon. 

Cut about ^ of lb. of fresh bacon into thin slices; 
soak it on the fire in a stew-pan until it is almost 
done; then put about a quart of peas to it, a good ; 
bit of butter, a faggot of parsley, and 2 spoonsful 
of ca.sup: simmer on a slow fire and reduce the 
W 



sauce: take out the faggot and serve the rest to- 
gether. 

To make mock bratuii. 

Take the head and belly piece of a young pork- 
er, well salt-petred; split the head and l)oil it; take 
out the bones and cut it to i)ieces; then take four 
ox feet boiled tender, and cut them in tliin pieces; 
lay them in the belly^jiiece with tlie head cut small; 
roll it up tight with sheet tin, and boil it four or 
five hours. When it comes out set it up on one 
end, put a ti'encher on it witiun the tin, press it 
down with a large weight, and let it stand all nigl-.t. 
The next morning take it out of the tin and bind 
it vvitli a fillet, put it into cold salt and water, and 
it will be fit for use; it will keep a long time, if 
fresh salt and water are put into it evei y four days. 
To make Dr A'itchener's pudding. 

Beat up the yolks and whites of three eggs, straio 
them through a sieve, and gradually add to them 
about a quai-ter of a pint of milk. Stir Uiese well 
together; mix in a mortar 2 oz. of moist sugar 
and as much grated nutmeg as will lie on a six- 
pence; stir these into the eggs and milk. — Then 
put in 4 oz. of flour, and beat it into a smooth bat- 
ter; stir in, gradually, 8 oz. of very fine cliopped 
suet, and .3 oz. of l)read crumbs — mix all thorough- 
ly together-, at least half an hour before putting the 
pudding into the pot. Put it into an earthenware 
mould that is well buttered, and tie a pudding cloth 
over it. 

JVottingham pndding. 

Peel si.x good apples; take out the cores with the 
point of a small knife, but be sure to leave the ap- 
ples whole; fill up where the core was taken from 
with sugar, ])lace them in a pie dish, and poui' over 
them a nice light batter, prepared as for batter pud- 
ding, and bake them an hour in a moderate oven. 
To make a fasting day's dish. 

Boil eggs very hard, and tut a little from the 
thick ends. Fry them in a pan, and take care to 
keep them continually in motion; then jilace them 
in the dish, pour over them some good fish or herb 
gravy, and garnish with lemon. 

To dress a military omelette. 

Make a ragout of stewed sorrel, with a little 
parmesan cheese, rasped and mixed with bread 
crumbs; make two omelettes, put this ragout be-- 
tween, and garnish the dish round with fried bread, 
standing up like a paste border; which maybe done 
by dipping the edge of each bit in whites of eggs 
to make thera stick; pour a little melted butter 
over it, and strew bread crumbs and parmesan 
cheese as before; give colour in the oven, or wiili a 
hot shovel. 

To make an onion omelette. 

Fry two or three sliced onions in butter till they 
are quue done, add two yolks of eggs, and a little 
chopped parsley; make two small omelettes with- 
out sal:, put the onions and a few fillets of ancho- 
vies upon them, and roll them lengthways; have 
some pieces of bread cut like toast and fried in but- 
ter; cut the omelettes according to the size of the 
bread, and place them thereon; pour a little melt- 
ed butter over, and strew them with bread crumbs 
and rasped parmesan cheese: give them a good co- 
lou' in the oven, or with a salamander; serve what 
sauce you please. 

French method. — The eggs should be beaten 
with a spoon, white and yolk together; and a small 
quantity of parslsy and young onions, minced, 
should be stirred among the butter, before it is 
poured into the fr}'ing-pan. 

Another omelette. — The eggs heing beaten, are 
to be seasoned w ith salt and pepper, and then fried 
in butter made boiling hot; when done, the gravy 
is to be poured on, and the whole stewed with 

P 



170 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



chives and parsley shred small; when one side is 
fried enough, it is to be lui'ned on .he other. 
To make Yurkshire jnuldiuff. 

This nice disli is usually haked uiiiler meat, and 
is thus made. Beat four large spoonsful of Hour, 
eggs, and a little sail for fifteen minutes. Then 
put to thera tijree pints of milk, and mix tliem 
well together. Then hutter a dripping-])an, and 
set it under beef, mutton, or veal, wliile roasting. 
When it is brown, cut it into s(iuare pieces, and 
turn it over; and when llie under side is browned 
also, send it to the table on a dish. 
Dutch ptiilding. 

Cut a round piece out of the bottom of a Dutch 
loaf, and i)'it that anil the ]iiece that was cut out 
into a ijuart of cold new milk, in the evening, and 
let it stand all night. If the milk is all soaked U[) 
by the morning, add some more. Put tlie piece 
in the bottom again, tie the loaf up in a clotli, and 
boil it an hour. Eat it with sugar, or with melted 
butter, white wine, and sugar sauce. 

To make a dish offnimenty. 

Boil an approved ([uantity of wheat; when soft, 
pour ofl" the water, and keep it for use as it is want- 
ed. The method of using it is, to put milk to 
make it of an agreeable thickness; then warming 
it, adding some sugar and nutmeg. 

To make a JVindsor pudding. 

Shred half a pound of suet very line, grate i)ito 
it half a pound of Frencii roll, a little nutmeg, and 
the rind of a lemon. Add to these, half a i)ound 
of cliopped apple, half a pound of ctUTants, clean 
washed and dried, half a poimd of jar raisins, ston- 
ed and chopped, a glass of rich sweet wine, and 
five eggs beaten with a little salt. Mix all llio- 
rougldy together, and boil it in a basin or mould, 
for three hours. Sift fine sugar over it when sent 
to table, and pour white wine sauce into the dish. 
A Cheshire pudding. 

Make a crust as for a fruit pudding, roll it out 
to fourteen or fifteen inches in length, and eight or 
nme in width; spread with rasi)berry jam or any 
other preserve of a similar kin(l, pnd roll it up in 
tiie manner of a collared eel. Wrap a cloth round 
it two or three times, and tie it tight at each end. 
Two hours and a (piarter will boil it. 
To make a plain pudding. 

Weigh three quarters of a pound of any odd 
scraps of bread, w helher crust or crumb, cut them 
small, and pour on them a pint and a half of boil- 
ing water, to soak thera well. Let it stand till the 
water is cool, then press it out, and mash the bread 
smooth with the back of a spoon. Add to it, a tea- 
spoonful of beaten ginger, some moist sugar, and 
three ([uarters of a lb. of currants. Mix all well 
together, and lay it in a pan well buttered. Fiatten 
it dow n with a spoon, and lay some pieces of but- 
ter on the top. Bake it in a moderate oven, and 
serve it hot. Wlien cold, it will turn out of the 
pan, and eat like good plain cheese cakes. 
Transparent pudding. 

Beat up eight eggs, put them into a stew-pan 
with half a pound of sugai-, the same of butter, and 
some giated nutmeg, and set it on the fire, stirring 
it till it thickens, tlien i)our it into a basin to cool. 
Set a rich jiaste round the edge of your dish, , our 
in your pudding, and bake it in a moderate oven. 
A delicious and elegant article. 

A Putna rice pudding. 

Wash a quarter of a |)0und of wliole rice, dry it 
in a clolii and beat it to a powder. Set it upon 
the fire, with a pint and a half of new milk, till it 
thickens, but do not let it boil.- pour it out, and let 
it stand to cool. Add to it, some cinnamon, nut- 
meg, and mace, pounded, sugar to the taste, half 
a pound of suet shred very small, and eight eggs 
well beaten with some salt. Put to it, either half 



1 pound of currants, clean washed and dried by the 
fire, or some candied lemon, citron, or orange 
peel. Bake it half an hour with a puff crust un- 
der it. 

A baked potato pudding. 

Mix twelve ounces of potatoes boiled, skimmed, 
and mashed, 1 oz. of suet, quarter cf a pint of milkj 
and 1 oz. of cheese grated fine; add as much boil- 
ing water as is necessary to produce a due consist- 
ence, and bake it in an earthen pan. 

To make raspberry djimplings. 

Make a pufl' paste, and roll it out. Spread rasp- 
berry jam, and make it into dumplings. Boil them 
an hour; pour melted butter into a dish, and strev^ 
grated sugar over it. 

To make raspberry and cream tarts. 

Roll out thin puff paste, lay it in a patty-pan; 
put in raspberries, and strew fine sugai- over them. 
Put on a lid, and when baked, cut it open, and put 
i-n half a pint of cream, the yolks of two eggs well 
beaten, and a little sugar. 

To make marrow pudding. 

Grate a penny loaf into ci-umbs, pour on them a 
pint of boiling hot cream. Cut very thin a pound 
of beef marrow, beat four eggs well, and then put 
in a glass of brandy, with sugar and nutmeg to 
taste. Mix them all well together, and either boil 
or bake it, for three quarters of an hour will do it. 
Cut two ounces of ciii-on very thin, and, when 
served up, stick them all over it. 

'J'o make Ohlbiwy pudding. 

Heal four eggs very well, have ready a pint ba- 
sin fioured and buttered, pour in the eggs, and fill 
it iq) with new milk previousl)' boiled, and with 
two laurel leaves, and when cold, beat them to- 
gether; put a white paper over the basin, cover 
with a cloth, ami boil it twenty minutes. Send it 
up with wine and butter sauce. 

Qui?ice pudding. 

Scald the quinces tender, pare them thin, scr«pe 
off tile pul[), mix with sugar very sweet, and add a 
little ginger and cinnamon. To a pint of cream 
jiut three or four j^nlks of eggs, and stir it into the 
quinces till they are of a good thickness. Butter 
the dish, pour it in and bake it. 
Tansy pudding. 

Blanch and pound a quarter of a jiound of Jor- 
dan almonds; jiul them into a stew-pan, ad<l a gil! 
of the syrup of roses, the crumb of a French roll, 
some grated nutmeg, half a glass of brandy, two 
table-spoonsful of tansy juice, 3 oz. of fresh butter, 
and some slices of citron. Pour over it a pint and 
a half of boiling cream or .nilk, swee' ^n, and when 
cold, mix it; add the juice of a lemon, and 8 eggs 
beaten. It may be either boiled or baked. 
Lemon pudding. 

Cut off the rind of 3 lemons, boil them tender, 
pound them in a mortar, and mix them with a 
(luarter of a pound of Na[)les biscuits, boiled up in 
a quart of milk or cream; beat up 12 yolks and 5 
whiles of eggs. Melt a quarter of a pound of fresh 
butter, and put in half a pound of sugar, and a lit- 
tle orange flower water. Mix all well toge^her, 
stir it over the fire till tliick, and squeeze in the 
j^iice of half a lemon. Put puff paste round the 
dish, then pour in the pudding: cut candied sweet- 
meats, and strew over, and bake it for three quai-- 
ters of an hour. 

wVlrs GoodfelloTu^s lemon puddc ig. 

Take of butter (the very best) and loaf sugar, 
each half a pound, beat them to a froth as for 
pound-cake, add live eggs, the juice of half of a 
large or the wliole of a small lemon, Gmte into it 
the outside yellow rind, but not an atom of the 
while — half a glass of Madeira, half a glass of bran- 
dy, a tea-spoonful of orange-iiower water, pour it 
into your paste, and bake witli a moderale t)veu. 



cooKERar 



171 



^. B. The above quantities make three eotnmon 
puddings. 

jyirs Goodft How's o^angi piiddinp'. 
Proceed as above, using a pounded orange in 
place of the lemon. 

Cocoa-nut puddmg. 

A quarter of a pound of grated cocoa-nut, the 
same quantity of powdered loaf sugar, tliree ounces 
and a half of good butter, the wliites of six eggs, 
and half a glass of wine and bi-andy mixed, a tea- 
spoonfal of orange iiower and rose-water — poui' 
into your paste, and bake as above. 
Boston apple piiddinff. 

Peel one dozen and a half of good apples, take 
out the cores, cut them small, put into a stewpan 
that will just hold tliem, with a little water, a lit- 
tle cinnamon, two cloves, ai.d tlie ])eei of a lemon, 
stew over a slow fire till quite soft, then sweeten 
vi-ith moist sugar, and pass it through a hair sieve, 
add to it the yolks of four eggs and one white, a 
quarter of a pound of good "butter, half a nutmeg, 
the peel of a lemon grated, and the juice of one 
lemon; beat all weW together, line the inside of a 
pie-dish with good puff paste, put in the pudding, 
and bake half an hour. 

Spring fruit pudding. 

Peel and wash well four tJozen slicks of rhubarb, 
put into a stew-pan with the pudding, a lemon, a lit- 
tle cinnamon, and as much moist sugar as will make 
it quite sweet, set it over a fire, and reduce it to a 
marmalade, pass through a hair sieve, and proceed 
as (hrected for the Boston pud<ling, leaving out the 
lemon juice, as the rhubarb will be found sufficient- 
ly acid of itself. 

Plum pudding. 

Suet chopped fine, six ounces; Malaga raisins 
stoned, six ounces; currants nicely washed and 
picked, eiglit ounces; bread crumbs, three ounces; 
flour, three ounces; eggs, three; sixth of a nutmeg; 
small blade of mace; same quantity of cinnamon 
pounded as fine as possible; half a 'easpoonful of 
salt; half a pint of milk, or rather less; sugar, four 
ounces; to which may be added candied lemon, one 
ounce; citron, half an ounce. Beat the eggs and I 
spice well together, mix the milk with them by I 
degrees, then the rest of the ingredients; dip a fine j 
close linen cloth into boiling water, and |mt it in a j 
hail* sieve; flour it a little, and tie it up close; put 
it into a saucepan containing six quar'^s of b(nling 
water; keep a kettle of boiling water alongside of i 
it, to fill up your pot as it wastes; be sure to keep it 
boilirg six hours at least. 

Batter pudding. 

Take six ounces of tine flour, a little salt and 
three eggs, beat up well with a little milk, ailded 
by degrees ti»l tbe batter is quite smooth, make it 
the thickness of cream, put into a buttered pie- 
dish, and bake three quarters of an hour, or into a 
buttered and floiu-ed basin tied over tight with a 
cloth, boil one and a half or two hours, 
JK'eruinarket pudding. 

Put on to boil a pint of good milk, with half a 
lemon peel, a little cinnamon, and a bay-leaf, boil 
gently for five or ten minutes, sweeten with loaf 
sugar, break the yolks of five and the whites of 
thri-e eggs into a basin, beat them well, and add 
the milk, beat all well together, and strain through 
a fine hair sieve or tamniis, have some bread and 
iti'tter cut ver}' thin, lay a layer of it in a pic-dish, 
and then a layer of currants, and so on till the disii 
is nearly full, then pour the custard over it, and 
bake half an hour. 

JVe-^vaiHtle or cabinet pudding. 

Butter a half melon mould, or quai t basin, and 
stick all round with <lried cherries, or fine raisins, 
and ' i\ up w!4h bread and butter, kc;. as m the 
above, and steam it an hour and a half. 



Fennicelli pudding. « 

Boil a pint of milk, with lemon peel and cinna 
mou, sweeten with loaf sugar, strain through • 
sieve, and add a quaiter of a pound of vermicelli, 
boil ten minutes, then put in the yolks rf five and 
the whites of three eggs, mix well together, and 
steam it one hour and a (juarier: the same may be 
baked half an hour. 

Bread pudding. 

Make a pint of bread-crumbs, put them into a 
stewpan with as ranch milk as will cover ihem. the 
peel of a lemon, and a little nutmeg grattd, a small 
piece of ciniu.mon; boil about ten minutes; sweeten 
with powdered loaf sugar; take out the cinnamon, 
and put in four eggs; beat all -well together, and 
bake half an hour, or boil rather more than an 
hour. 

Suet pudding. 

Suet, a quarter ot a pound; flour, three table- 
spoonsful; eggs, two; and a little grated ginger; 
milk, half a pint. Mince the suet as fine as pos- 
sible, roll it with the rolling pin so as to mix it 
well with the flrur; beat up the eggs, mix them 
with the milk, and then mix all together; wetyoiu' 
cloth well in boiling water, flour it, tie it loose, 
put into boiling water, and boil an hour and a 
quarter. 

Custard pudding. 

Boil a pint of milk, and a quarter of a pinttof 
good cream; Jiicken wUh flour and water, made 
perfectly smooth, till it is stiff enough to bear an ' 
egg on it; break in the yolks of five eggs, sweeten 
with powdered loaf sugar, grate in a little nutmeg, 
and tbe peel of a lemon; add half a glass of good 
brand)', then whip the whites of the five eggs till 
quite stift", and mix gently all together; lin^ a pie- 
dish with good pufl' paste, and bake half an hour. 

N. B. Ground rice, potptoe floui, panada, and 
all puddings made from powders, are, or may be, 
pre-'ared in the same way. 

Boiled custards. 

Put a quart of new milk into a stewpan, with 
the peel of a lemon cut very thin, a little grated 
nutmeg, a bay or laurel leaf, a small stick of cin- 
namon; set it over a quick fire, but be careful it 
does not boil over; when it bo.'ls, set it beside the 
fire, and simmer ten minutes; bre-^k the yolks of 
eight, and the whites of four eggs into a basin, 
■'eat them well, then pour in the milk a little at a 
time, stirring 't as quick as possible to prevent the 
eggs curdling; set it on the fire again, and stir well 
with a wooden spoon; let it have just one boil; pass 
it through a taramis, or fine sieve; wlien cold, add 
a little branfly, or white wine, as may be most 
agreeable to palate: serve up in glasses, oi cups. 
To make a peivgord pie. 

Take half a dozen partridges, and dispose of 
their legs in the same manner as is done with 
chickf'ns, when intended to be boiled. Season 
them well with pepper, salt, a small qunnt'ty of 
clovts and mace beaten fine. Gut two pounds of 
lean veal, and one pound of fat bacon into small 
bits, and put them into a ste«pan with half a pound 
of butter, together with some shallots, parslej', and 
thyme, all chopped together. Stew these till the 
meat appear sufficie'itly tender. Then season it 
in tlie same manner as directed for the paicridge*. 
Strain and pound the meat in a mortar till it iS: 
perfectly smooth, then mix the pulp in some of the 
liquor in which it has been stewed. 'l"he pie-crust 
being rf ised, and ready to receive the partridges, 
put them in with the above-mentioned force-meat 
over them, and ever that lay some thin slices of 
Lacon. Cover the pie with a thick lid, and be sure 
to close it well at the sides, lO prevent the gra\y 
from boiling out at the place where the joining is 
made, which would occasion the partridges to <'at 



17i 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



di-y. This sized pie will require three hours bak-'' 
Ing, but be careful not to put it in a fierce heated 
oven. A pound of fresh truffles will add conside- 
rably to the merits of this excellent pie. 
To make a pujf paste. 

Take a quarter of a peck of flour, and rub it into 
a pound of butter very fine. Make it up into a 
light paste with cold water just stiff enough to work 
it up. Then lay it out about as thick as a crown 
piece; put a layer of butter all over, then sprinkle 
on a little flour, double it up, and roll it out again. 
Double and roll it with layers of butter three 
times, and it will be fit for use. 

'1 inahe a short crust. 

Put six ounces of butter to eight ounces of flour, 
and work them well together; then mix it up with 
as little water as possible, so as to have it a stifiish 
paste; then roll it out thin for use. 

I'o make a good paste for large pies. 

Put to a peck of flour three eggs, then put in 
half a pound of suet, a pound and a half of butter 
and suet, and as much of the liquor as v;ill make it 
a good light crust. Work it up well and roll it out. 

Another method. — Take a peck of flour, and six 
pounds of butter, boile<l in a gallon of water, then 
skim it off into the flour, wilh as little of the li- 
quor as possible. Work it up well into a paste, 
pull it into pieces till cold, then make it into the 
desired form. 

To make paste fur tarts. 

Put an ounce of loaf sugar, beat and sifted, to 
one pound of fine flour. Make it into a stift" paste, 
with a gill of boiling cream, and three ounces of 
butter. Work it well, and roll it very thin. 
7'o keep pijiatoes for sea provisions. 

Slice them and bake them slowly and they will 
•ceep and form good flour for years. 

To use herrings economically. 

The best method of using salted lierrings with 
potatoes is, to parboil the potatoes without their 
skins, then boil them with the herrings thorough- 
ly, and put them on a dish, when they will form a 
most excellent flavoured meal. 

To make a sack posset. 

Beat up the yolks and whites of 15 eggs, strain 
them, and then put three quarters of a pound of 
while sugar in a pint of Canary, and mix it with 
the eggs in a basin. Set it over a chafing dish of 
coals, and keep continually stirring it until it is 
quite hot. Next grate some nutn.eg in a quart of 
milk, boil it, and then pour it mto the eggs and 
wine; while pouring, hold the hand very high, and 
let another person keep stirring the posset, which 
renders it smooth, and full bodied to the taste. 

Another method. — Take four Naples biscuits, 
and crumble them into a quart of new milk, when 
it boils a little, grate in some nutmeg, and sweeten 
it to taste: next pour in half a pint of sack. Keep 
stirring it, when it will be fit for table. 
Ale posset. 

Take a small piece of white bread, put it intc- a 
pint of milk, and set it over the fire. Then put 
some nutmeg and sugar into a pint of ale, warm it, 
and when the milk boils, pour it upon the ale. 
Let it stand a few minutes to clear. 

Green gooseberry cheese. 

Take 6 lbs. of unripe rough gooseberries, cut off 
the blossoms and stems, and put them in cold wa- 
ter for an hour or two; then take them out, bjruise 
them in a marble mortar, and put them into a 
brass pan or kettle, over a clear fire, stirring them 
till tender: then add 4^ lbs. of lump sugar pound- 
ed, and boil it till very thick, and of a fine green 
colour, stirring ic all the time. 

To steam potatoes. 

Put them clean washed, with their skins on, in- 
to a steam saucepan, and Jet the water under thera 



be about half boiling, let them continue to boll ra- 
ther quickly, until they are dons; if the water 
once relaxes from its heat, the goodness of the po- 
tato is sure to be affected, and to become soddened, 
let the quality be ever so good. A too precii)itate 
boiling is equally disadvantageous; as the higher 
parts to the surface of the root begin to crack and 
open, while the centre part continues unhcated 
and undecomposed. 

To make potato bread. 

Boil the potatoes not q.uite so soft .is common, 
then dry them a short time on the fire, peel them 
while hot, and pound them as fine as possible, next 
put a small quantity of pearl ash to new yeast; 
whilst it is working briskly, add as much rye-mea!, 
or flour, as can be worked in. Mix the whole well 
together, but do not add any water to it. After the 
dough is thus piepared, let it stand an liour and a 
lialf or two hours before it is put into the oven; ob- 
serve it will not require so long baking as regular 
flour bread. 

Awthcr method. — Take 5 lbs. of dried potatoe 
starch, and 5 lbs. of the pulp; dissolve a suitable 
quantity of leaven or yeast in warm water, the 
mixture being exactly made the niglit before; let 
it he all niglit in a kneading troKgh, well covered 
and kept warm until the next day; this is the se- 
cond leaven; then add 5 lbs. more of starch, and 
the same quantity of pul]), and knead it weU; the 
water must be in the pror)ortion of a fiftii part, that 
is, upon 20 lbs, of paste there must be 5 lbs. of 
water, which is to be used as hot as possible. 
To use frosted potatoes. 

If much frozen lay tiiem in cold water, and to 
each peck of potatoes take a^ of oz. of salt-petre 
dissolved in water, which mix with the fluid in 
which they are boiled; if the pMr'toes ai-e so frozen 
as to be quite unfit fornouiisliment they will make 
starch, and will yield more flour Ihaii if unfer- 
mented by the icy power. This flour, with an 
equal quantiv/ of wheat flour, some butter, sugar, 
a little balm, and a few currants, makes excellent 
bread for tea. If fo'-med into small cakes, aud 
put into a slow oven, it will keep a month. 



SOUPS, &c. 

To ma],:e a tureen of soup Fleimsh fashion. 

Scald halfa dozen of turkey pinions, tour slieeps' 
rumps, and § a pound or more of pickled pork; 
then tie up eacJi sort together, scaid also a good 
savoy cut into quarters and tied; put them altoge- 
ther into a pan with goodbroth, a fagot of sweet 
herbs, parsley, green shallots, .3 cloves, pepper and 
salt; boil slowly; when done, drain the meat; put it 
into the tureen, and serve a good gravy sauce with 
it. 

JVew- England choioder. 

Have a good haddock, cod, or any other solid 
fish, cut it in pieces three inches square, put a 
pound of fat salt iiork in strips into the pot, set it 
on hot coals and fry out the oil; take out the pork 
and put in a layer of fish, over that a layer of 
onions in slices, then a layer of fish wilh slips of 
fat salt pork, then another layer of onions, and so 
on alternately until your fish is consumed; mix 
some flour with as much water as will fill the pot; 
season with black pepper and salt to your taste, 
and boil it for half an hour. Have ready some 
crackers f Philadelphia pilot bread if you can get 
it) soakea in water till they are a little softened, 
throw them into your chowder five minutes before 
you take it up. Serve in a tureen. 
JMuUaga-taiviiy soup. 

Cut 4 lbs. of a breast of veal into pieces, about 
tv/o inches by one; put the trimmings into a stew 



COOKERY. 



173 



ppii with two quarts of water, -with 12 corns of 
black pepper, and the same of allspice; wlieti it 
boils, skim it clean, and let it boil an hour ;ind a 
half, then strain It off; while it is boiling, fry of a 
nice brown in butter the bits of veal and four 
onions; when they are done, put tlie broth to them, 
ptit it on the fire; when it boils, skim it clean, let 
It si.nmc;- half an hour, tlien mix two spoonsful of 
curry and tlie same of flour, with a little cold wa- 
ter, and a teaspoonful of salt; add these to the 
soup, and slramer it gently till the veal is quite 
tender, and it is ready; or bone a couple of fowls 
01" rabbits, and stew them in the manner directed 
above for the veal; and you may put in a bruistnl 
eshallot, and some mace and ginger, instead of 
black pepper and allspice. 

A tureen of hodg-'-podge of different sorts. 

Take either a brisket of heef, mutton, steaks, 
whole pigeons, rabbits cut in quarters, veal, or 
poultry; boil a long time over a slow fire in a short 
liquid, with seme onions, carrots, parsni^js, tur- 
nips, celery, a fagot of parsley, green shallots, one 
f-lo\e of garlick, .3 of s[»ices, a laurel leaf, thyme, a 
little basil, .nrge thick sausages, and thin broth or 
water; when done, drain the meat, and place it upon 
a dish intermixed with roots, sift and skim the 
sauce, reduce some of it to a glaze, if desired; 
glaze the meat with it, then aiid some gravy on the 
same stew-pan and broth suificient to make sauce 
enough with pepper and salt: sift it in a sieve, 
and serve upon the meat. If brisket of beef 
is used, let it be half done before putting in the 
roots, which should be scalded first, as it makes 
the broth more palatable. 

Portable soup. 

Cut into small j)ieces 3 large legs of veal, 1 of 
beef, and the lean part of a ham: lay the meat in a 
large cauhh-on, with a quarter of a pound of butter 
at the bottom, 4 ounces of anchovies, and 2 ounces 
of mace. Cut small 6 heads of clean washed cele- 
ry, freed from green leaves, and put them into the 
cauldron, with 3 large carrots cut thin. Cover all 
close, and set it on a moderate fire. When the 
gravy begins to draw, keep taking it off till it is all 
extracted, ll.en cover the meat with v/ater, let it 
boil gently for four hours, then strain it through a 
hair sieve into a clean pan, till it is reduced to one- 
third. Strain the gravy drawn from the meat mto 
a pan, and let it boil gently, until it be of a gluti- 
nous consistence. Take care and skim off all the 
fat as it rises. Watch it when it is nearly done, 
thut it does not burn; next season it with Cayenne 
pepper, and pour it on flat earthen dishes, a quar- 
ter of an inch thick. Let it stand till the next day, 
and then cut it out by rouiid tins larger than a 
crown piece. Set the cakes in dishes in the sun to 
dry, and turn them often. When fully dried, put 
them into a tin box with a piece of clean white pa- 
per between each, and keep them in a dry place. 
If made in frosty weather it will soon become so- 
lid. This kind of soup is exceedingly conveiiient 
for piivate tamilies, for by putting one of the cakes 
in a saucepan with about a pint of water, and a lit- 
tle f-alt, a basin of good broth may be made in a 
few minutes. It will likewise make an excellent 
grHvy for roast turkeys, fowls, and game. 
Curry. 

Take the skin off two chickens; carve, wash and 
dry them; put them in a stew pan with a teacupful 
of water, salt, and a few onions, artd stew them 
with a Isw green peas, or the egg plant, till ten- 
der; then take a lump of butter, the size of a pi- 
geon's egg, a little mace, Cayenne pepper to taste, 
a teaspoonful each of fresh turmeric and carda- 
moms, pounded wiih a shallot in a marble mortar; 
roll these ingredients with a little ilour in the but- 
ter, and dissolve them in the stew. If the curry is 



to be brown, it must he fried a little before the cur- 
ry-ball is added to tlie gravy. 

Jlnother. — Carve a pair of fat young fowls with 
a sliarp knife, precisely as if at table; dust them 
with flour, fry them in butter till they are well 
browned, lay them in a atew-pan, with slips of 
four large onions, add boiling water to the brown- 
ing, &e. left in the pan, give it a boil, and pour 
the wliole over your chicken; if not liquor enough 
to rallier more tlian cover it, add hot water: put on 
the lid of your pan and set it on hot coals. In half 
an hour take out a cup of the gravy, mix it well 
with a table-spoonful of curry powder, and throw 
it again into the pan; stir it well round; taste and 
see if your gravy is warm, if not, add Cayenne; bub- 
ble tlie whole quietly till the fowls are tender; 
serve in a deep dish, with boiled rice. 
jyialay''8 curry. 

Proceed as above; fry the onions, pieces of 
fowls and a couple of egg-plants in slices; put the 
whole in your stew-pan with the milk of two cocoa- 
nuts; grate the flesh, put it into a linen bag and 
squeeze out the juice, which put in the saucepan 
likewise; add the curry and finish as above. 
Curry poivder. 

Coriander seed, three ounces; turmeric, five 
ounces; black pepper, mustard, and ginger, each 
one ounce; lesser cardamom seeds, half an ounce; 
Cayenne pepper, half an ounce; cinnamon, and 
cummin seed a quarter of an ounce each. Dry 
them well; reduce them separately to a pow- 
der; pass them through a fine sieve, and mix them 
well. It should be kept in a closely stopped bot- 
tle, in a dry place. 

Welsh rnhbit — a nenu receipt for. 

Cut your cheese into small slips, if soft, if hard, 
grate it down. Have ready a spirit of wine lamp, 
Sec. and dSep block-tiu dish; put in the cheese 
with a lump of butter, and set it over the lamp. 
Have ready the yolk of an egg whipped, with half 
a glass of Madeira, and as much ale, or beer; stir 
your cheese when melted, vill it is thoroughly mix- 
ed with the butter, then add gradually the egg and 
wine, keep stirring till it forms a smooth mass. 
Season with Cayenne and grated nutmeg. — To be 
eaten with a thin hot toast. 



J^ote by the Jlmerican Editor. 

It often happens, that in travelling, the materials 
for a rabbit may be had when there is nothing else 
in the house the gourmand can eat. In this case, 
if there is no blazer, or chafing dish, an excellent 
substitute is formed in a moment, by two soup 
plates, separated from each other by pieces of a 
bottle-cork placed on the rim of the lower one, 
which should contain any kind of spirits. Put your 
cheese into the top one, fire the spirits with a slip 
of paper, and set your rabbit on the corks; it an- 
swers as well as the most expensive heater in 
Christendom. — Probatum est. 
Soup maigre. 

Take of veal, beef cut into small pieces, and 
scrag of mutton, I Ih. each; put them into a sauce- 
pan, with 2 quarts of water; put into a clean cloth 
1 oz. of barley, an onion, a small bundle of sweet 
herbs, 3 or 4 heads of celery cut small, a little 
mace, 2 or 3 cloves, 3 turnips pared and cut in two, 
a large carrot cut into small pieces, and a young 
lettuce. Cover the pot close, and set it stew very 
gently for six hours. Then take out the spice 
sweet herbs, and onion, and pour all into a soup 
dish, seasoned with salt. 

Mock tw^f.e soup. 

Scald a calf's head with the skin on, and take 
off the horny part, whicu cut into two-inch square 
pieces: clean an i dry them weil m a cioth, and put 
them into a slew pan, with 4 quarts cf water madt 

P 2 



174 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK 



as follows: Take 6 or 7 lbs. of beef, a calf's foot, 
a shank of ham, an orion, 2 carrots, a turnip, a 
head of celery, some cloves and whole pepper, a 
bunch of sweet herbs, a little lemon peel, and a 
few truffles. Put these into 8 quarts of water, and 
stew them gently till the liquid is reduced one 
half; then strain it oft", and put it into the stew pan 
with the horny parts of the calf's head. Add some 
knotted marjoram, savory, thyme, parsley chopped 
small, with some cloves and mace pounded, a lit- 
tle Cayenne pepper, some green onions, a shallot 
cut fine, a few chopped mushrooms, and half a pint 
of Madeira wine. Stew these gently till the soup 
is reduced to two quarts, then heat a little broth; 
mix some flour, smoothing it with the yolks of 2 
eggs, and stir it over a gentle fire till it is nefr 
boiling. Add this to the soup; keep stirring as 
you pour it in, and contmue stewing for another 
hour. When done, squeeze in the juice of half a 
lemon, half an orange, and throw in some boiled 
force-meat balls. Sei've it up in a tureen hot. 
This soup is deliciously gratifying and nutritive. 
Asparagus soup. 

Put a small broiled bone to l^ pints of peas, and 
water in proportion, a root of celery, a small bunch 
of sweet herbs, a large onion, Cayenne pepper, and 
salt to taste; boil it briskly for five houi s, strain 
and puin it; then add a little syjinach juice, and 
asparagus boiled and cut into small pieces. A tea- 
spoonful of walnut soy, and a tea-spoonful of mush- 
room catsup, answers as well as the bone. 
Giblet soup. 

Take 4 pounds of gravy beaf, 2 pounds of scrag of 
mutton, and 2 pounds of scrag of veal; boil them in 2 
gallons of water, stew them gently till it begins to 
taste well, pour it out and let it stand till cold, skim 
off all the fat. Take 2 pair of giblets well scaled, 
put them to the broth, and simmer them till they 
are very tender. Take them out and strain the 
soup tiirough a cioth. Put a piece of butter rolled 
in flour into the stev/ pan, with some fine chopped 
parsley, chives, a little penny royal, and sweet 
marjoram. Place the soup over a slow fire, put in 
the giblets, tried butter, herbs, a little Madeira 
wine, some salt, and Cayenne pepper; when the 
herbs are tender, send the soup and giblets intermix- 
ed to table. This forms a very savoury dish. 
White soup. 

Stew a knuckle of veal and a scrag of mutton 
three or four hours, with spice; strain it; blanch 3 
a pound of sweet almonds, beat them with a spoon- 
ful or ttvo of cream to prevent their oiling; put 
ttiem with a pint of cream into the soup, stir it and 
give it a boil; strain it through a cloth, squeeze 
the almonds as diy as possible, heat it again, and 
thicken it as a custard with eggs; put a toasted roll 
in the tureen, and pour the soup over it. If there 
is a breast of cold fowl or veal, less almonds will 
do; if the meat be stewed and strained the day be- 
fore, it does much better. 

Charitable soup. 

Take the liquor of meat boiled the day before, 
with the bones of leg and shin of beef; add to the 
liquor as much as will raaite 130 quarts, also the 
meat of 10 stones of leg and shin of beef, and 2 ox 
heads, all cut in pieces; add 2 bunches of carrots, 
4 bunches of turnips, 2 bunches of leeks, ^ a peck 
of onions, 1 bunch of celery, ^ a lb. of pepper, and 
!ome salt. Boil it for six hours. Either oatmeal 
»r bailey may be put in to thicken it, if thought 
accessary. This soup may be used at auy gentle- 
nan's table. 

Veal gravy soup. 

Garnish the bottom of the stew-pan with thin 
pieces of lard, then a few slices of ham, stices of 
?eal cutlet, sliced onions, carrots, parsnips, celery, 
a few cloves upon the meat, and a spoonful of broth; 



soak it on the fire in this manner till the veal tnrows 
out its juice; then put it on a stronger fire, till the 
meat catches to the bottom of the pan, and is 
brought to a proper colour: then add a suflicier.t 
quantity of light broth, and sinnvier it on a slow 
fire till the meat is thoroughly done; add a little 
thyme and mushrooms. Skim and sift it clear for 
use. 

Seef gravy soup. 
Cut slices of lean beef, according to the quantity 
wanted, which place in a stew-pan, upon sliced 
onions and roots, adding two spoonsful of fat biotb; 
soak this on a slow fire for half an hour, stirring it 
well; when it catches a proper colour add thin 
broth iiiade of suitable herbs, with a little salt 
over it. 

Ji poor mail's soup. 
Pick a handful of parsley leaves, mince them 
fine, and strew over a little salt: shred six green 
onions, and put them with the parsley in a sauce- 
boat. Add three table-spoonsful of oil and vinegar 
with some pepper and salt. 

A cheap rice and meat soup. 
Put a pound of rice and a little pepper and broth 
herbs into two quarts of water; cover them close, 
and simmer very softly; put in a little cinnamon, 
two pounds of good ox-cheek, and boil the whole 
till the goodness is incorporated by the liquor. 

Anothe/' cheap soup. — Take an ox cheek, two 
pecks of potatoes, a quarter of a peck of onions, 
three quarteis of a pound of salt, and an ounce and 
a half of pepper — to be boiled in ninety pints of 
water, on a slow fire until reduced to sixty. A 
pint of this soup, with a small piece of meat, is a 
good meal for a hearty working man. Some of 
every vegetable, with a few herbs, may be added. 
Herring soup. 
Take eight gallons of water, and vnix it with five 
pounds of barley-meal. Coil it to the consistence 
of a tiiick jelly. Season it with salt, pepper, vine- 
gar, sweet herbs, and, to give it a gratifying fla- 
vour, add the meat of four red herrings pounded. 
To prepare a nutritious soup. 
A pound of Scotch barley, with sufiicient time 
allowed in the cooking, will make a gallon of wa- 
ter into a tolerable pudding consistency. A pint 
basin filled with it will hold a spoon upright, when 
at its proper degree of warmth for eating. Tho- 
roughly stee[)ed, it will produce a rich pulp, the 
form of the grains being neai-ly lost. Five hours' 
exposure, in a moderately heated oven, will oe suf- 
ficient; and it may be improved by an hour or t\vo 
more. 

Amongst other means for such preparation, when 
a baker's oven has been emptied of its bread, a pan 
of one gallon size may be put in to steep its con- 
tents during the preceding night, and then renew- 
ing the usual baking in the morning. What has 
been lost by evaporation, may be renewed by the 
addition of warm water. All the seasoning re- 
quisite to make it as savoury as plain family dishes 
generally are, will be about thrcee large onions, 
one ounce of salt, and a quarter of an ounce of pep- 
per. This seasoning should be put in before send- 
ing it to the oven. 

J make jelly broth. 
Put into the stew-pan, slices of beef, veal fillet, 
a fowl, and one or two partridges, according to the 
quantity i-equired. Put it on the fire without li- 
quid, until it catches a little, and add the meat now 
and then. To give it a proper colour, add some 
good clear boiling broth and scalded roots, as car- 
rots, turnips, parsnips, parsley roots, celery, large 
onions, two or three cloves, a small bit of nutmeg 
and whole pepper; boil it on a slow fire about four 
or five hours with attention; and add a few cloves 
of garlic or shallots, and a small fagot, or bunch of 



COOKERY. 



175 



parsley anJ thyme tied together. When it is of a 
good yellow colour, sift it; it serves for sauces, 
xnd adds strength to the soups. 
Cooling broth. 

The herbs, fruits, seeds, flowers, or roots which 
are employed for cooling broth, are purslain, let- 
tuces, chervil, leeks, borage, buniet, sorrel, gar- 
den and wild endive, bugloss, hop-tops, cos let- 
tuces, young nettles, cucumbers, tops of elder, 
dandelion, liver-wort, fumitory, beet roots, kc. 
Wash and c'.op a proper quantity, according to 
order, and boil a short time in thin veal or cliiclcen 
broth; sift and keep it in a cool place. Warm it 
for use without boiling. 

Common sauce. 

Soak slices of veal, ham, onions, parsnips, two 
♦loves of garlic, two heads of cloves, then add 
broth, a glass of white wine, and two slices of le- 
mon; simmer it over a slow fire, skim it well, and 
sift it; add 3 cloves of rocambole, bruised. 
Sweet sauce. ' 

Mix two glasses of red wine, one of vinegar, 
three spoonsful of cullis, a bit of sugar, one sliced 
onion, a little cinnamon, and a laurel-leaf; boil 
them a quarter of an hour. 

Jlliser''s sauce. 

Chop five or six large onions, mix a little ver- 
juice, or vinegar, pepper, salt, and a little butter; 
serve it up either warm or cold. 
Pontiff''s sauce. 

Soak slices of veal, ham, sliced onions, carrots, 
parsnips, and a white head of celery; add a glass 
of white wine, as much good broth, a clove of gar- 
lic, four shallots, one clove, a lif.le coriander, and 
two slices of peeled lemons. Boil on a slow fire 
till the meat is done; skim it and sift in a sieve; 
add a little catsup, and a small quantity of fine 
chopped p"arsley, just before it is used. 
Housewife's sauce. 

Take some of the above sauce sifted without 
gravy, add a bit of butter rolled in flour, and chop- 
ped chervil: use it when warm. 
Parson's sauce. 

Chop lemon-peel very fine, with two or three 
pickled cucumbers, a bit of butter, salt, and coarse 
pepper; a little flour, with two spoonsful of catsup, 
and stew it on the fire without boiling. 
JVun's sauce. 

Put slices of veal and ham in a stew-pan, with 
a spoonful of oil, two mushrooms, a fagot of pars- 
ley, a clove of garlic, two heads of cloves, half a 
leaf of laurel; let it catch a little on the fire; then 
add some good broth, a little gravy, and some 
white wine; simmer it for some time, skim it well, 
and sift in a sieve. When ready, add two or three 
green shallots, and a dozen of pistachio-nuts, 
whole. 

Admiral's sauce. 

Chop an anchovy, capers, and seven rr eight 
green rocamboles; simmer them on the fire with a 
little salt, pepper, gi-ated nutmeg, and butter roll- 
ed in flour; when i-eady, add a lemon squeezed. 
Sauce piq^innte. 

Put a bit of butter with two sliced onions into a 
stew-pan, with a carrot, a parsnip, a little thyme, 
laurel, basil, two cIovps, two shallots, a clove of 
garlic, and some parsley; turn the whole over the 
fire until iv be well coloured; then shake in some 
flour, and moisten it with some broth, and a spoon- 
ful of vinegar. Let it boi> over a slow fire: skim, 
and strain it through a sieve. Season it with salt 
and pepper, and serve it with any dish required i 
to be heightened. 

Sauce for veal. 

Take the bones of cold roast or boiled veal, 
dredge them well with flour, and put them into a 
stew-pan, with a pint and a half of broth or water, 



a small onion, a little g^ted or fin'ly minced le- 
mon-peel, or the peel of a quarter of a small le- 
mon pared as thin as possible, half a tea-spoonful 
of salt, and a blade of pounded mace; — to thicken 
it, rub a table-spoonful of flour into half an ounce 
of butter; s(ir it into the broth, and set it on the 
fire, and let it boil very gently for about half an 
hour, strain through a tammis or sieve, and it is 
ready to put to the veal to warm up, which is to 
be done by placing the stew-paii by the side of the 
fire. Squeeze in half a lemon, and cover the bot- 
tom of the dish with toasted bread sippets cut into 
triangles, and garni.sh the dish with slices of nam 
or bacon. 

Bechamel or xuJute sauce. 

Cut in square pieces, half an inch thick, two 
pounds of lean veal, half a pound of lean ham, melt 
in a stew-pan two ounces of butter; when melted, 
let the whole simmer until it is ready to catch at 
the bottom, (it requires great attention, as if it 
happen to calcK at the bottom of the stew-pan, it 
will spoil tlie look of your sauce,) then add to it 
three table-spoon sfid of flour; when well mixed, 
add to it three pints of broth or water, pour a lit- 
tle at 1 time, that the thickening be smooth, stir it 
until It boil, put the scew-pan on the corner of the 
scove to boil gently for two hours, season it with 
four cloves, one onion, twelve pepper-corns, a 
blade of mace, a few mushrooms, and a fagot made 
of parsley, a sprig of thyme, and a bay-leaf. Let 
ihe sauce reduce to a quart, skim the fat oft", and 
strain it tlirough a tammis clolli. 

Kitchener's { Dr) saxice, superlative. 

Claret or port wine, and mushroom catsup, a 
pint of each; half a pint of walnut or other pickle 
liquor; pounded anchovies, four ounces; fresh le- 
mon-peel, pared very thin, an ounce; peeled and 
sliced eshallots, the same; scraped horse-radish, 
ditto. ; allspice and black pepper, powdered, half 
an ounce each; Cayenne, one drachm, or curry 
powder, three drachms; celery-ssed, bruised, a 
drachm. All avoirdupois weight. Put these into a 
wide mouth bottle, stop it close, shake it up every 
day for a fortnight, and strain it, when some think 
it improved by the addition of a quarter pint soy, 
or thick browning, and you will have a " delicious 
double relish." 

A dish of maccaroni. 

Boil four ounces uf maccaroni till it is quite ten- 
der, then lay it on a sieve tc drain, and put it into 
a stew-pan with about a gill of cream, and a piece 
of butter rolled in flour; stew it five minutes and 
pour it on a plate. Lay Parmesan cheese toasted 
all over it, and send it up in a water-plate. 
Sauce Italienne. 

Put a piece of butter into a stew-pan, with mush- 
rooms, onion, parsley, and thehalf of alaurel leaf, 
all cutfine; turn the whole over the fire sometime, 
and shake in a little f jur; moisten it with a glass 
of white wine, and as much good broth; add salt, 
pepper, and a little mace; beat all fine. Let it boil 
half an hour: then skim away the fat, and serve it 
up. A fine flavour may be given to it whilst boil- 
ing, by putting in a bunch of sweet herbs, which 
take out before the dish is servtd up. 
JVonpareil sauce. 

Take a slice of boiled ham, as much breast of 
roasted fowl, a pickled cucumber, a hard yolk of 
an egg, one anchovy, a little parsley, and a head 
of shallot, chopped very fine; boil it a moment in 
good catsup, and use it for meat or fish. 
JVivenioise sauce. 

Put in a small stew-pan a couple of slices of bam, 
a clove of garlic, two cloves, a laurel-leaf, sliced 
onions, and roots: let it catch the fire a little. Then 
add a small quantity of broth, two spoonsful of cat- 
sup, and a spoonful'of the best vinegar. Simmer it 



176 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



for an hour rn the side of a stove, then sift it in a 
sieve, and serve if. for a high flavoured sauce. 
Gravy cakes. 

Chop two legs of beef in pieces, put them into a 
pot of water, stew it over a slow fire a day and a 
night; then add onions, herbs and spices as for gra- 
vy; continue stewing it till the meat is off the 
bones, and the gravy quite out; then strain the li- 
quor into a milk-pan, to whicVi quantity it should 
be reduced; when cold, take off the fat, put it into 
a saucepan, and add whatever is required to flavour 
it; simmer it on a slow fire till reduced to about 
twelve saucers two-thirds full, put them in an airy 
place till as dry as leather, put them in paper bags, 
and keep m a dry place. 

GeneraPs sauce. 

To make this sauce properly, infuse all the fol- 
lowing ingredients for twenty-four hours, on ashes 
in an earthen pot, if possible, which must be very 
well stopped; viz. split six shallots, a clove of gar- 
lic, two laurel leaves, thyme and basil in propor- 
tion, truffles, tarragon leatves, half an ounce of mus- 
tard seed, bruised, six small pieces of Seville 
orange peel, a quarter of an ounce of cloves, as 
much mace, half an ounce of long pepper two 
ounces of salt; squeeze in a whole lemon, and add 
half a glass of verjuice, five spoonsful of vinegar, 
and a pint of white wine; let it settle, and silt it 
very clear. This may be kept, bottled, a long time, 
and it will serve for all sorts of meat and fish — but 
it must be used in moderation. 
Sailor^s sauce. 

Chop a fowl's liver with two or three shallots, 
and a couple of truffles or mushrooms; simmer 
these in a spoonful of oil, two or three spoonsiul 
of gravy, a glass of white wine, a little salt and 
coarse pepper; simmer it about half an hour, and 
skim it very well before using. 
Queen's sauce. 

Simmer crumbs of br^ad in good grav)', until it 
IS quite thick, take it oft' the fire, and add a few 
sweet almonds pounded, two hard yolks of eggs, 
and a breast of fowl roasted, all pounded very fine; 
boil a sufficient quantity of cream to your sauce, 
and sift all together, then add pepper and salt; and 
warm it without boiling. 

Carach sauce. 

Take three cloves of garlic, each cut in half, 
half an ounce of Cayenne pe|)i)er, and a spoonful 
or two each of Indian soy and walnut pickle; mix 
it in a pint of vinegar, with as much cochineal as 
will colour it. 

Tomata catsup. 

Boil tomatas, full ripe, in their juice, to nearly 
the consistence of a pulp, pass them through a hair 
sieve, and add salt to the taste. Aromatize it suf- 
ficiently with clove, pepper and nutmegs. 
Catsup fur sea-store!^. 

Take a gallon ot strong stale beer, a pound of 
anchovies washed from the pickle, the same of shal- 
lots peeled; half an ounce of mace, lialf an ounce 
of cloves, a quarttr of an ounce of whole pepper, 
three or four large races of ginger, and two quarts 
of large riiushroom flaps, rubl)ed to pieces. Cover 
these close, and let it simmer till halPwasted. Then 
strain it through a flannel bag; let it stand till quite 
cold, and then bottle it. This may be carried to 
any part of the world; and a spoonful of it to a lb. 
of fresh butter melted, will make a fine fish sauce, 
or will supply the place of gravy sauce. The 
stronger and staler the beer the better will be the 
cjitsup. 

Jlnother. — Chop twenty-four anchovies, having 
first boui^d them: Put to them ten shallots cut small 
and a liandful of scraped liorse-radish. a quarter 
of an ounce of mace, a quart of white wine, a pint 
of v/ater, and the same quantity of red wine; a le- 



I mon cut into slices, half a pint of anchovy liquor, 
twelve cloves, ami the same number of pepyjer- 

j corns. Hoil them together till it comas to a quart, 

! then strain it off, cover it close, and keep it in a 
cold dry place. Two spoonsful of it will be suffi- 

i cient for a pound ol butter. It is a good sauce for 
boiled fowls, or, in the room of grav)-, lowering it 
with hot wate^-, and thickening it with a piece of 
butter rolled in flour. 

Fish sauce. 
Take walnuts at tlie season for pickling, slice 
them into an an earthen pan, between every layer 
throw a small handful of ssilt, stir it with a wooden 
stirrer every day for a fortniglit; strain the liquor 
through a coarse cloth, and let it stand to settle; 
pour off the clear, and boil it with a pound of an- 
chovies to each pint; skim it, and let it stand to 
cooJ; give it another boil, add one pint of I'ed port, 
and one of best white wine vinegar to each pint of 
liquor; aiso mace, cloves, and nutmegs, of each, 
half a quarter of r>.n ounce, some flour of mustard, 
sliced horse-radish, and shallot, or a clove of garlic 
in each bottle. 

Keep it well corked with a bladder tied over. 
Tlie spice may be bruised cr not, as desired, and 
add a little whole black, or Jamaica jiepper, as 
thought best. 

Another. — ^Take one pound of anchovies, a ([uart 
of claret, three quarters of a pint of white wine vi- 
negar, lialf an ounce of cloves and mace, two races 
of ginger sliced, a little black pepper, the peel of 
a lemon, a piece of horse-ra'ish, a large onion, a 
bunch of thyme and savory; set all these over a slow 
fire to simmer an hour, then strain it tbrough a 
fieve; whei cold, put it in a bottle witii the spice, 
but not the herbs. To a large coftee-cupful cold, 
put a pound of butter; stir it over the fire till it is 
as thick as cream; shr.ke the bottle whea used, and 
put no water to the butter. 

Cre.im sauce for a hare. 
Run the cream over the hare or venison just be- 
fore frothing it, and catch it in a dish; boil it up 
with the yolks of two eggs, some onion, and a piece 
of butter rolled in flour and salt. Haifa pint of 
cream is the proportion for two eggs. 
Ragout of asparagus. 
Scrape one hundred of grass clean; put them into 
cold water; cut them as far as is good and green, 
chop small two heads of endive, a young lettuce, 
and an onion. Put a quarter of a poiuid of butter 
into the stew pan, and when it is melted, put in the 
grass with the other articles. Shake ihem well, 
and when they have stewed ten minutes, season 
them with a little pepper and salt; strew in a lit- 
tle flour, shake them about, and then pour in half 
a pint of gravy. Stew the .vhole till the sauce is 
very good and thick, and then pour all into the 
dish. Garnish witli a few of the small tops of the 
grass. 

'I'hssajne of mushrooms. — Broil on a gridiron some 
large peeled mushrooms, and clean oft" the Inside; 
when the outside is brown, put thtni into a stew- 
pan -with a sufficient quantity of water to cover 
them; when they have stewed ten minutes, put to 
them a spoonful of white wine, the same of brov/n- 
ing, and a little vineg;.r. Thicken it v. i'di butter 
and flour, give a gentle boil, and serve it up with 
sippets round the dish. 

Of artichoke bottoms. — Soak them in warm wa- 
ter for two or three hours, changiug the water; 
then put them into the stew-pan v^ith sume good 
gravy, mushroom catsup, or pov/der. Add a little 
Cayenne pepper and salt when tjiey boil; thicken 
tnem with a little flour, put (".cm into the dish 
with sauce over them, and serve them hot. 

Of calves'' s^ueet-breads. — Scald two or three 
sweet-breads cut each into three or four pieces. 



PASTRY, &c. 



177 



ami p\it thera into a stew-pan wi... .shrooms, 
butter, and a fagot of sweet herbs; soak these to- 
gether a moment, then add broth and gravy; sim- 
mer oil a slow tire, skim the sauce well, and re(h(ce 
it; season with pepper, salt, and lemon juice when 
ready. 

(if roots. — Cut carrots and parsnips to the length 
<3f a finger, and of much the same thickness; boil 
them till half done in water, put them into a stew- 
pan with small bits of ham, cliopped parsley, and 
shallots, pepper and salt, a glass of wine and broth; 
let them Ptew slowly until the brotli is reduced 
pretty thick, and add the squeeze of a kmon when 
ready to serve. For maigre, instead of ham, use 
mushrooms, and make a mixture heat up with yolks 
of eggs and maigre broth. Cebry is done much 
the same, only it is cut smaller. If these roots are 
to be served in a boat for sauce, boil them tender 
in the broth pot, or in water, cut them ii.to the de- 
sired length, and serve with a good gravy or white 
sauue. 



PASTRY, &c. 

To make a rich plum cake. 

Take one pound of fresh butter, one pound of 
sugar, one pound and a half of fli ur, two pounds of 
eurrants, a glass of brandy, one pound of sweet- 
meats, two ounces of sweet almonds, ten eggs, a 
quarter of an ounce of allspice, and a quarter of an 
ounce of cinnamon. 

Melt the butter to a cream and put in the sugar. 
Stir it till quite light, adding the allspice, and 
pounded cinnamon; in a quarter of an hour take 
the yolks of the eggs, and work them in, two or 
three at a time; and the whites of the same must 
by this tini2 be beaten into a stroTig snow quite 
ready to work in; as the paste must not stand to 
chill the butter, or it will be heavy, work in the 
whites gradually: then add the orange-peel, lemon, 
and citron, cut in fine stripes, and the currants, 
which must be mi.xed in well, with the sweet al- 
monds. Then add the sifted Hour and glass of 
brandy. Bake this cake in a tin hoop in a hot 
oven for three hours, and put twelve sheets of pa- 
per under it to keep it from 'iirning. 

A good plain cake. — The following- is a receipt 
for making a good plain cake, to be given to chil- 
dren, at breakfast, instead of buttered bread. 

Take as much dough as will make a quartern 
loaf, (either made at home, or procured at the ba- 
ker's) work into this a quarter of a pound of but- 
ter, a quarter of a pound of moist sugar, and a 
handful of caraway seeds. When well worked to- 
gether, pull into pieces the size of a golden pip- 
pin, and work it together again. This must be 
<lone three times, or it will be in lumps, and heavy 
when baked. 

Iceing for cakes. 

Put one pound of fine sifted, treble refined sugar 
into a basin, and the whites of tlnee new-luid eggs; 
beat the sugar and eggs up well with a silver spoon, 
until it becomes very white and thick: dast the 
c:ike o^er with flour, and then brush it off, by way 
of taking the grease from the outside, which pre- 
vents the iceing from running; put it on smooth 
with a palette knife, and garnish according to fan- 
cy; any ornaments should be put on immediately, 
for if the iceing get dry, it will not stick on. 
A rich seed cake. 

Take a pound and a (juarter of flour well dried, 
a pound of butter, a pound of loaf sugar, beat and 
sifted, eight eggs and two ounces of caraway seeds, 
one gi-ated nutmeg, and its weiglit in cinnamon. 
Beat ihe butter into a cream, put in the sugar, beat 
the whites of the eggs and the yolks separately. 



then mix them with the butter and sugar. Beat in 
the flour, spices, and seed, a little before sending 
it away. Bake it two hours in a quick oven. 
A plain pound cake. 

Beat one poiuul of butter in an earthen pan un- 
til it is like a fine thick cream, then beat in nine 
whole eggs till quite light. Put in a glass of bran- 
dy, a little lemon-peel, shred fine, then work in a 
pound and a quarter of flour; put it into the hoop 
or i>an and bake it for an hour. A pounij plum 
cake is made the same with putting one pound and 
a half of clean washed currants, and half a pound 
of candied lemon-peel. 

JiatafM cakes. 

Beat half a pound each of sweet and bitter al- 
monds in fine orange, rose, or ratafia water, rnix 
half a pound of fine pounded and sifted sugar with 
the same, add the whites of four eggs well beaten 
to it, set it over a moderate rire in a preserving- 
pan. Stir it one way until it is pretty hot, and 
when a little cool form it into small rolls, and cut 
it into thin cakes. Shake some flour lightly on 
them, give eacli a light lap, and put them on su- 
g:4r papers, sift a little sugar on them, and put 
them into a thorough slack oven. 
JViggs. 

Put halt a pint of warm milk to three quarters 
of a pound of fine flour; mix in it two or three 
S]50onsful of light yeasc. Cover it up, and set it 
before the fire an lunu-, in order to make it rise. 
Work into it four ounces each of sugar and but- 
ler, make it into cakes, or wiggs, with as little flour 
as possible, and a few caraway seeds, and bake 
them quick. 

Bath cakes. 

Mix well together, half a pound of butter, one 
pound of flour, five eggs, and a cupful of yeast 
Set the whole before the fire to rise, which effect- 
ed, add a quarter of a pound of fine powdered su- 
gar, an ounce of caraways well mixed in, and roll 
the paste out into little cakes. Bake tiiera on tins, 
ShreivsharT/ cakes. 

Mix half a pound of butter well beat like cream 
and the same weight of flour, one egg, six ounces 
of bea<:'n and sifted loaf sugar, and half an ounce 
of caraway seeds. Form these into a paste, roll 
tlicm thin, and lay them in sheets of tin; then bake 
them in a slow oven. 

Portiigal cake.3. 

Mix into a pound of fine fl(.'ur, a pound of loal 
sugar, beat and sifted, and rub it into a pound of 
butter, till it is thick, like grated white bread; 
then put to it two spoonsful of rose-v.'ater, two of 
sack, and ten eggs; work them well with a whisk, 
and put in eight ounces of currants. Butter the tin 
pans, fill them half full, and bake +hem. If made 
without currants they will keep a year. 
Ginger cakes tuittio-.U butter. 

Take one pound of sugar, a quarter of a pound 
of ginger, a pint of water, two pounds of flour, and 
eight caps of orangc-p. ei. Pound and sift the gin- 
ger, and add a pint of water; boil it five minutes, 
then let it stand till cold. Pound the preserved 
orange peel, and pass it throegh a hair-sieve; put 
the flour on a pasteboard, make a wall, and put in 
the orange peel and ginger with tlie boiled water; 
mix thio up to a ]iaste and roll it out; prick the 
cakes before baking the'-Q. 

Savoy cakes. 

To one pound of fine sifted sugar, put the yolks 
of ten eggs, (hH^e the whites in a separate pan,) 
and set it, if in summer, in cold water; if there is 
any ice set the pan on it, as it will cause the eggs 
to be beat finer. Then beat the yolk? and sugar 
well w'*h a wooden spoon for 20 minutes, and pnt 
in the rind of a lemon grated; beat up the whites 
with a whisk, until they become quite stiff anO 



r 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



■white as snow. Stir them into the battel- by de- 
grees, then add | of a pound of well dried flour; 
finally, put it in a mould in a slack, oven to bake. 
Saffron cakes. 

lake a quartern of fine flour, 1^ lbs. of butter, 3 
oz. of caraway seeds, 6 eggs, well beaten, ^ of an 
oz. of well beaten cloves and mace, a little pound- 
ed cinnamon, I lb. of suo-ar, a little rose-v-'ater and 
saffron, a pint and a half of yeast, and a quart of 
milk. Mix them thus: first boil the milk and but- 
ter, then skim off the butter, and mix it with the 
flour and a little of the milk. Stir the yeast into 
the rest and strain it; mix it with the flour, put in 
the eggs and spice rose-water, tincture of saffron, 
sugar, and eggs. Eeat it all well up, and bake it 
in a hoop or pan well buttered. Send it to a quick 
oven, and an hour and a half M'iU do it. 
Queen cakes. 

Take a pound of sugar, beat and sift it, a pound 
of well dried flour, a pound of butter, eight eggs, 
and half a pound of currants washed and picked; 
grate a nutmeg and an equal quantity of mace and 
cinnuinon, work the butler to a cream, put in the 
sugar, beat the whiles of the eggs 20 minutes, and 
mix them with the butter and sugar. Then beat 
the yolks for half an hour anil put them to the but- 
ter. Beat the whole together, and when it is ready 
for the oven, put in the flour, spices, and currants; 
sift a little sugar over them, and bake them in tins. 
Rice cakes. 

Beat the yolks of 15 eggs tor nearly half an hour, 
with a whisk, mix well with them ten ounces of 
line sifted loaf sugar, put in half a pound of ground 
rice, a little orange water or bi-andy, and the rinds 
nl two lemons grated, then add the whites of seven 
eggs well beaten, and stir the whole together for a 
quarter of an hour. Put them into a hoop and set 
them in a quick oven for half an hour, when they 
will be properly done. 

Lemon cakes. 

Take one pound of sugar, three quarters of a 
pound of flour, 14 eggs, two table-spoonsful of rose- 
water, the raspings and juice of four lemons; when 
the yolks are well beat up and separated, add the 
powder sugar, the lemon raspings, the juice, and 
the rose-water; beat them well together in a pan 
with a round bottom, till it becomes quite light, 
for half an hour. Put the paste to the whices pre- 
viously well whisked about, and mix it very light. 
When well mixed sift in the flour and knead it in 
with tlie paste, as light as possible; form the bis- 
cuits and bake them in small oval tins, with six 
sheets of paper under them, in a moderate heat. 
Butter the tins well or it will prove difficult to take 
out the Liscuits, which will be exceedingly nice if 
Avell made. Ice them previous to baking, but very 
lightly and even. 

Jianbicry cakes. 

Take a pound of dough made for white bread, 
roll it out, and put bits of butter upon the same as 
for puff" paste, till a pound c-f the same has been 
worked in; roll it out very thin, then cut it into 
bit.'; of an oval size, according as the cakes are 
wanted. Mix some good moist sugar with a little 
brandy, sufficient to wet it, then mix some clean 
washed currants with the former, put a little upon 
each bit of paste, close them u]), and put ihe side 
that is closed next the tin t'.ey are to be baked up- 
on. Lay them separate, and bake them moderate- 
ly, and afterwards, when taken out, sift sugar over 
them. Some candied peel may be added, or a few 
drops of the essence of lemon. 
Almond cakes. 

Take six ounces of sweet almonds, half a pound 
of powdered sugai, seven eggs, six ounces c 7 flour, 
and the raspings of four lemons. Found the al- 
monds very fine, with whole eggs, add the sugar 



; and lemon raspings, and mix them well together m 
the mortar. Take it out, put it in a basin and stir 
it witli the yolks of eggs, till it is as while as a 
sponge paste; beat up the whites of the sggs to a 
strong snow, mix them very light with the paste, 
then take tlie flour and mix it as light as possible; 
on this the goodness of the paste principally de- 
pends, as it is impossible to make a good cake with 
» heavy paste; butter the mould, and bake in a 
slack oven for an hour, with ten sheets of paper 
under it and one on the top. 

Plain giiigei^bread. 
Mix thrfte pounds of flour with four ounces of 
moist sugar, half an ounce of powdered ginger, and 
one pound and a quarter of warm treacle; melt half 
a pound of fresh hutter in it; put it to the flour and 
make it a paste; then form it into nuts or cakes, or 
bake it in one cake. 

j Another method. — Mis six pounds of flour with 
two ounces of carawa}' seeds, two ounces of ground 

I ginger, two ounces of candied orar.ge peel, the 

I same of candied lemon peel cut in pieces, a little 
salt, and six ounces of moist sugar; melt one pound 
of fresh butter in about half a pint of milk, pour it 
by degrees into four pounds of treacle, stir it well 
together, and adil it, a little at a time, to the flour; 
mix it thoroughly; make it into a paste; roll it out 
rather thin, and cut into cakes with the top of a 
dredger or wine glass; jiut tliem on floured tins, 
and bake them in rather a brisk oven. 
Cream cakes. 
Beat the whites of nine eggs to a stiff froth, stir 
it gently with a spoon lest the froth should fall, and 
to every white of an egg grate the rinds of two le- 
mons; shake in gently a spoonful of double refined 
sugar sifted fine, lay a wet siieet of paper on a tin, 
and with a spoon drop the froth in little lumps on 
it near each other. Sift a good quantit}' of sugar 
over them, set them in the oven after the bread is 
out, and close up the mouth of it, which will occa- 
sion the froth to rise. As soon as they are colour- 
ed they will be sufpMciently baked; lay them hy two 
bottoms together on a sieve, and diy them in a cool 
oven. 

Crumpets. 
Set 2 lbs. of flour with a little salt before the fire 
till qv'te warm; then mix it with warm milk and 
water till it is as stiff' as it can be stirred; let the 
milk be as warm as it can be borne with the fin- 
ger, put a cupful of this with 3 eggs well beaten, 
and mixed with 3 spoonsful of very thick yeast; 
then put this to the baiter and beat them all well 
together in a large pan or bowl, add as much milk 
and water as will make it into a thick batter; cover 
it close and put it before the fire to rise; put a bit 
of butter in a piece of thin muslin, tie it up, and 
rub it lightly over the iron hearth or frying pan; 
then pour on a sufficient quantity of batter at a 
time to make one crumpet; let it do slowly, and it 
will be very light. Bake them all the same way. 
They should not be brown, but of a fine yellow. 
Muffins. 
Mix a quartern of fine flour, 1^ pints of warm 
milk an J water, with ^of a pint of good yeast, and 
a little salt; stir them together for a quarter of an 
hour, then strain the liquor into a quarter of a peck 
of fine flour; mix the dough well and set it to rise 
for an hour, then roll it up and pull it into small 
pieces, make them up in the hand like balls and 
lay a flannel over them while rolling, to keep them 
warm. The dough should be closely covered up 
the whole time; when the whole is rolled into balls, 
the first that are made will be ready for baking. 
When they are spread out in the right form for 
muffins. Jay them on tins and bake them, and as the 
bottoms begin to change colour turn them on the 
otlier side. 



PASTRY, &c. 



179 



Common buns. 
Rub four ounces of butter into two pounds of 
flour, a little salt, four ounces of sugar, a dessert 
spoonful of caraways, and a tea-spoonful of ginger; 
nut some uartn milk or cream to four table spoons- 
ful of yeast; mix all together into a paste, but not 
too stiff; cover it over and set it before the fire an 
hour to rise, then make it into buns, put them on a 
tin, set them before the fire for a quarter of an 
liour, coTer over with flannel, then brush them 
with very warm milk and bake them of a nice 
brown in a moderate oven. 

Cross buns. 
Put 2^ lbs. of fine flour into a wooden bowl, and 
set it before the fire to warm; then add ^ a lb. of 
sifted sugar, some coriander seed, cinnamon and 
mace powdered fine; melt ^ lb. of butter in half a 
pint of milk; when it is as warm as it can bear the 
5nger, mix with it three table spoonsful of very 
thick yeast, and a little sail; put it to the flour, 
mix it to a paste, and make the buns as directed in 
the last receipt. Put a cross on the top, not very 
deep. 

Rusks. 
Beat up seven eggs, mix them with half a pint 
of warm new milk, in which- a quarter of a pound 
of butter has been melted, add a quarter of a pint 
of yeast, and three ounces of sugar; put them gra- 
dually into as much flour as will make a light paste 
nearly as thin as batter; let it rise before the fire 
half an hour, add more flour to make it a little 
stiffer, work it well and divide it into small loaves, 
or cakes, about five or six inches wide, and flatten 
them. When baked and cold put them in the oven 
to brown a little. 'I'hese cakes when first baked 
are very good buttered for te?', if they are made 
with caraway seeds Ihey eat very nice cold. 
Orang-e aistards. 
Boil very tender the rind of half a Seville 
orange, and beat it in a mortar until it is very fine; 
put to it a si)Oonful of the best brandy, the juice oi 
a Seville orange, four ounces of loaf sugar, and the 
yolk of four eggs. Beat them all together for ten 
minutes, and then pour in by degrees a pint of 
boiling cream; beat them until cold, then put theni i 
in custard cups, in a dish of hot water; let them 
stand till they are set, then- take them out and stick 
preserved ol-ange peel on the top; tliis forms a fine 
flavoured dish, and may be served up hot or cold. 
Baked aistards. 
Boil a pint of cream with some mace and cinna- 
mon, and when it is cold, take four yolks of eggs, 
a little rose water, sack, nutmeg, and sugar, to 
taste; mix thein well and bake them. 
Rice custards. 
Put a blade of mace, and a quartered nutmeg in- 
to a quart of cream; boil and strain it, and add to 
it some boiled rice and a little brandy. Sweeten. 
it to taste, stir it till it thickens, and serve it up in 
cups or in a dish; it may be used either hot or 
cold. 

Almond custards. 
Blanch a quarter of a pound of almonds, beat 
them very fine, and then put them into a pint of 
cream, with two spoonsful of rose water; sweeten 
it, and put in the yolks of four eggs; stir them well 
together till it becomes thick, and then pour it into 
cups. 

Lemon custards. 
Take half a pound of double refined sugar, the 
juice of two lemons, the rind of one pared very 
thin, the inner rind of one boiled tender and rub- 
bed through a sieve, and a pintof white wine; boil 
them for some time, then take out the peel and a 
tittle of the liquor; strain them into the dish, stir 
them well together aud set them to cool. 



To make almond tarts. 
Blanch and beat fine some almonds, with a little 
white wine and some sugar (a'pound of sugar to a 
pound of almonds), grated bread, nutmeg, cream, 
and the juice of spinach, to colour the almondi. 
Bake it in a gentle oven, and when done, thicken, 
with candied orange peel or citron. 
Gree^i almond tarts. 
Pull the almonds from the tree before they shell, 
scrape oft' the down, and put them into a pan with 
cold spring water; then put them into a skillet 
with more spring water; set it on a slow fire, and 
let it remain till it simmers. Change the water 
twice, aind let them remain in the last till tender, 
then take them out and dry them well in a cloth. 
Make a syrup with double refined sugar, put them 
into it and let them simmer; do tlie same the next 
day, put them into a stone jar, and cover them very 
close, for if the least air comes to them they will 
turn black; the yellower they are before they are 
taken out of the water, the greener they will be 
after they are done. Put them into the crust, co- 
ver them with syrup, lay on the lid, and bake them 
in a moiierate oven. 

Orange or lemon pie. 

Hub six oranges or lemons with salt, and put 
them into water, witli a handful of salt, for two 
days. Put every day fresh water without salt, for 
a fortnight. Boil them tender, cut them into half 
quarters, corner ways, quite tliin; boil six pippins 
pared, cored, and quartered, in a pint of water till 
they break, then put the liquor to the oranges or 
lemons, with half the pulp of the pippins well bro- 
ken, and a pound of sugar; boil them a quarter of 
an hour, then put them into a pot and squeeze in 
two spoonsful of the juice of either orange or le- 
mon, according to the kind of tart; put puif paste, 
very thin, into shallow patty-pans. Take a brush, 
and rub them over with melted butter, sift double 
refined sugar over inera, which will form a pretty 
ieeing, and bake them. 

Orange tarts. 

Grate a little of the outside of a Seville orange, 
squeeze the juice into a dish, put the peel into wa- 
ter, and change it often for four days, then put it 
into a saucepan of boiling water on the fire; change 
the water twice to take out the bitterness, and 
wlien tender, wipe and beat them fine in a mortar; 
b»il their weight in double refined sugar into a sy- 
rup, and skim it, then put in the pulp and boil all 
together till clear; when cold put it into the tarts, 
and squeeze in the juice, and bake them in a quick 
oven. Conserve of orange makes good tarts. 
Orange puffs. 

Pare off the rinds from Seville oranges, then rub 
them with salt, let them lie twenty-four hours ia 
water, boil them in four changes of water, make the 
first salt, drain and beat them to a pulp; bruise iu 
the pieces of all that are pared, make it very 
sweet with loaf sugar, and boil it till thick; let it 
stand till cold, and then put it into the paste. 
English macaroons. 

One pound of sweet almonds, 1 pound and a 
quarter of sugar, 6 whites of eggs, and the raspings 
ot 2 lemons. Pound the almonds veiy fine with 6 
whites of eggs, feel the almonds, and if they are 
free from lumps, they will do; then add the pow- 
dered sugar, and mix it well with the lemon rasp- 
ings. Dress them in wafer paper of the required 
shape; bake them in a moderate heat, then let 
them stand till cold, cut the wafer paper round 
them, but leave it on the bottoms. 
Fancy biscuits. 

Take I pound of almonds, 1 pound of sugar, and 
some orange flower water. Pound the almonds 
very fine, and sprinkle them with orange flower 



180 



. UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



water; when they are perfectly smooth to the touch, 
put them in a small pan, ^vith flour sitted lliroiigh a 
silk sieve; put the pan on a slow fire, and dry tiie 
paste till it does not stick to the fingers; move it 
well from the bottom, to prevent its burnit.jj;; then 
lake it off, and roll it into small round iillets, to 
make knots, rings, &e., and cut it into various 
shapes; make an iceing of different colours, dip 
one side of them in it, and set them on wire grat- 
ings to drain. They may be varied by strewing 
over them coloured pistachios, or colom-ed almonds, 
according to fancy. 

Sponge discidts. 

Beat the yolks of 12 eggs for half an hour; then 
put in l^ pounds of beaten sifted sugar, and whisk 
it till it rises in bubbles; beat the whites to a strong 
froth, and whisk them well with the sugar and 
yolks, work in 14 oz. of flour, with the rinds of 2 
lemons grated. Bake them in tin moulds buttered, 
in a quick oven, for an hour; before they are baked, 
sift a liitle fine susjar over them. 
Fine cheesecakes. 

Pat a pint of warm cream into a saucepan over 
the fire, and when it is warm, add to it 5 quarts of 
new milk. Then put in some rennet, stir it, and 
when it is turned, put the curd into a linen clef's 
or bag. Let the wliey drain from it, but do not 
squeeze it too much. Put it into a mortar, and 
pound it as fine as butter. Add half a poind of 
sweet almonds blanched, half a poiuid of maca- 
roon?, or Naples biscuit. Tlien add 9 well beaten 
yolk:: of eggs, a grated nutmeg, a little rose or 
orange water, and half a pound of fine sugar. ,\lix 
all well together. 

Jllmond cheesecakes. 

Put 4 ounces of blanched sweet almonds into 
cold water, and beat them in a marble mortar or 
wooden bowl, with some rose water. Put to It 4 
ounces of sugar, and the yolks of 4 eggs beat fine. 
Work it till it becomes v/hiteand frothy, and then 
make a rich puff paste as follows; Take half a 
pound of flour, and a quailer of a pcuiul of butter; 
rub a little of the batter into the flour, mi.x. it stiff 
with a little cold water, and then roll out the paste. 
Strew on a Tuie flour, and layover it, in thin bits, 
one-third of the butter; throv/ a little more flour 
over the bottom, and do the like three different 
times. Put the paste into the tins, grate sugar over 
them, and bake them gently. 

Bread cheesecakes. 

Slice a penny loaf as thin as possible; pour on 
it a pint of boiling cream, and let it stand two 
hours. Beat together eight eggs, halfa pound of 
butter, and a grated nutmeg: mix them into the 
cream and bread with half a pound of currants, 
well washed and dried, and a spoonful of white 
wine or brandy. Bake them in patty pans, on a 
raised crust. 

nice cheesecakes. 

Boil 4 ounces of rice till it is tender, and then 
put it into a sieve to drain; mix with it 4 eggs well 
beaten up, half a pound of butter, half a pint of 
cream, 6 oz. sugar, a nutmeg grated, a glass of 
brandy or ratafia water. Beat "them all well to- 
gether, then put them into raised crusts, and bake 
them in a moderate oven. 

Jipple cakes. 

Take half a quartern of dough, roll it out thin: 
spread equally over it 5 ounces each of coffee and 
sugar, a little nutmeg or allspice, and '2 ounces of 
butter; then fold and roil it again two or tl>re>i 
times, to mix well the ingr-:dieiits. Afterwards 
roll it out thin, and spread o\er it 4 ratlier'lnrge 
apples, pared, cored, and chopped small; tDUrit 
U]), and roll until mixed. Let it Ktaiid to rise after. 
Half a pound of butter may be addeil. 



Blancmange. 

Put into I quart of water an ounce of isinglass, 
and let it boil till it is reduced to a pint; then put 
in the whites of 4 eggs, with 2 nooonsful of rice 
water, and sweeten it to taste. P-m it through a 
jelly-bag, and then put to it 2 ounces of sweet, and 
I ounce of bitter almonds. Scald them m the jelly, 
and then run them through a hair sieve. Put it 
into a china bowl, and the next day turn it out. 
Garnish with flowers or green leaves, aiid stick all 
over the top blanched almonds cut lengthways. 
Clear blancmange. 

STcim off the fat, and strain a quart of strong 
calf's foot jelly, add to the samie the whites cf 4 
eggs well beaten; set it over the fire and stir it till 
it boils. Then pour it into a jelly bag, and run it 
through several times till it is clear. Beat an 
ounce each of sweet and bitter almonds to a paste 
with a spoonful of rose water stranied through a 
cloth. Then mix it with the jelly, and add to it 3 
spoonsful of very good cream. Set it again over 
ttie fire, and stir it till it almost boils. Pour it into 
a bowl; then stir it often till almost cold: and then 
fill the moulos. 



CONFECTIONARY. 

To prepare sugar for candying. 
The first process is dri-ifying, whiili is done 
thus. Break the white of in egg into a preserving 
pan; put to it 4 quarts of water, and beat it witJi a 
whisk to a froth. Then put in 12 pounds of sugar, 
mix all together, and set it over the fire. When it 
boils put in a little cold water, and proceed as often 
as necessary, till tl.o scum rises thick on the top. 
Then remove it from the fire, and when it is set- 
tled, take off the scum, and pass it through a strain- 
ing bag. If the sugar should not appear very fine, 
boil it again before straining it. 
To candy sugar. 
After having completed the above first process, 
ptit what quantity is wanted overliie fire, and boil 
it till it is smooth enough. This is known by dip- 
p'.ig the skimmer into the sugar, an^l touching it 
between the forefinger and thumb; and immediately 
on opening them a small thread will be observed 
drawn between, which will crystallize and break, 
arid remain in a drop on the thumb, which ^^ ill be 
a sign of its gaining some degree of smootliness. 
Boil it again, and it wili draw into a larger siring; 
it is :)0w called bloom sugar, and must be boiled 
longer than in the former process. To try its for- 
wardness, dip again the skimmer, siiaking off the 
sugar into the pan; then blow with the mouth 
strongly through the holes, and if certain bladders 
go through, it has acquired the second degree; to 
7^rove if the liquid has arrived at the state called 
feathered siigar, re-dip the skimmer, and shake it 
over the pan, then give It a sudden flirt behind, and 
the sugar will fly off like ftathers. 

It now arrives to the state called crackled sugar, 
to obtain which the mass must be boiled' longer 
than in the preceding degree; then dip a slick in 
it, and put it directly into a pan of cold water, draw 
off ti.e sugar which hangs to the stick in the water, 
and if it turns hard and snaps, it has acquireil the 
proper degree of cryslallizMtion; if otherwise, boil 
it again until it acquires liiat brittleness. 

I'hc last stage of refining tliis article is called 
carmel sugar, to obtain wliicli it must be boiled 
longer tiian in any of the preceding methods; prove 
j it by dipping a stick firit into tlie sugnr, and liien 
i into' cold water, and the iuomeni it touches the lat- 
] ter, it will, if matured, snap like gl;;;-,s. Be care- 
I ful that Uie fire is not too fierce, as by flaming up 



CONFECTIONARY. 



181 



the sides of the pan, it will burn, discolour, and 
spoil the sugar. 

French method. — Put into a pan syrnp enongli of 
clarified sugar to fill the mould; boil it until it 
comes to the state called ^mall feather; skim it 
well; take the pan from the fire, and pour it into 
a small quantity of spirit of wine sufficient to make 
it sparkle; let it rest till tlic skin, which is the 
candy, rises on the surface; take it off witli a skim- 
mer, and pour it directly into the mould; which 
keep in the stove at 90° heat for 8 days: then strain 
Ihe candy by a hole, slanting the mould on a bason 
or pan to receive the drainings; let it drain till it is 
perfrnliy dry, then loosen the paper by moistening 
It with warm water; warm it all round near the 
fire, and turn the candy liy striking it hard on the 
table. Put it on a sieve in the stove tofinisli dry- 
ing it; but do not touch it while there, and keep 
up an equal heat, otherwise there will be only a 
mash instead of a candy. Spirit of wine will take 
off grease, and not affect the candy, as it soon eva- 
porates. 

To make barley sugar. 

Take a quantity of clarified sugar in that state, 
that on dipping the finger into the pan the sugar 
which adheres to it will break with a slight noise; 
this is called crack.. When the sugar is near this, 
put in two or three drops of lemon juice, or a lit- 
tle vinegar to prevent its gi'aining. When it has 
come to the cracfc take it off instantly, and dip the 
pan into cold water to prever.t its burning; let it 
stand a little, and then pour it on u marble which 
must be previously rubbed with oil. Cut the sugar 
into small pieces, when it will be ready for use. 
One drop of citron will flavour a considerable 
quantity. 

Son-hons. 

Provide leaden moulds, which must be of vari- 
rious shapes, and be oiled with oil of sweet al- 
monds. Take a quant'ly of brown sugar syrup in 
the proportion to their size, in tliat state called a 
bloTV, which may be known by dipping the skim- 
mer into the sugar, shaking it, and blowing through 
the holes, when parts of light may be seen; add a 
drop of any esteemed essence. If the bon-bons 
are preferred white, when the sugar has cooled a 
little, stir it round the pan till it grains, and shines 
on the surface; then pour it into a funnel and fill 
the little moulds, when it will take a proper form 
and harden: as sop-", as it is cold take it frora the 
moulds; dry it two or three days, and put it upon 
paper. If the bon-bons are required to be colour- 
ed, add the colour juit as the sugar is ready to be 
taken off the fire. 

To candy ginger. 

Put 1 oz. of ra<5e ginger grated fine, 1 lb. of loaf 
sugar beat fine, into a preserving pan, with as much 
water as will dissolve the sugar. Stir them well 
together over a slow fire till the sugar begins to 
boil. Then stir in another pound of sui,ar, beat 
fine, and keep stirring it till it grows thick. Then 
take it off the fire, and drop it in cakes upon earth- 
en dishes. Set them in a warm place to dry, when 
they will become hard and brittle, and look, while. 
To candy horehound. 

Boil it in water till the Juice is extracted; then 
boil a sufficient quantity of sugar to a great height, 
and add the juice to it. Stir it wiih a spoon against 
the sides of the sugar pan, till it^iegins to grow 
thick, then pour it out into a paper case that is 
dusted with fine sugar, and cut it into squares: dry 
the horehound, and put it into the sugar finely pow- 
dered and sifiecL 

To make -ailute sugar candy. 

Sugar crystallized by the saturated syrup being 
left in a very warm place, from 90 to 100 degrees 
Fahrenheit, and the shooting promoted by placing 



sticks, or a net of threads at small distances from 
each other in the rnjuor, it is also deposited from 
compound syrup, and does not retain any of the 
foreign substances with which thesjrupis loaded. 
To clarify loaf sugai'. 

Break the same into a copper pan, which will 
hold l-3d more, put half a pint of water to each 
lb. of sugar, mix 1 white of an c2;g to every fi lbs. j 
when it rises in boiling, throw in a little cold wa- 
ter, which must be kept ready in case it should 
boil over; skim it the fourth time of rising, conti- 
nue to throw in a little cold water each time till the 
scum ceases to i-ise, and strain it through a sieve, 
cloth or flannel bag. Save the scum, which, when 
a certain quantity is taken off, may be clarified. 
The latter skimming will do to add to fermented 
wines. 

7 o clarify coarse broim rugar. 

Put 50 pounds of coarse brown si^gar into a pan, 
which will contain one-third more, pour in '20 pints 
of water, well mixed with 5 whiles of eggs; pound 
5 lbs. of small charcoal, mix it in the pan while on 
the fire, and boil it till it looks as black as ink. It 
it rises too fost, add coid water, strain it through 
a bag, and though at first it will be black, continue 
to strain it until it becomes quite clear; which may 
be seen by putting the syrup in a glass. Put it 
back until it comes out as fine as clarified loaf su- 
gar. 

To improz)e and increase sugar. 

To 5 lbs. of coarse brown sugar, add 1 lb. ol 
flour, and there will be obtained 6 lbs. of sugar 
worth 10 per cent, more in colour and quality. 
Starch sugar. 

Mix 100 parts of starch with 200 of water, and 
add to it gradually another 200 of water, previous- 
ly mixed with one of oil of vitriol, and brought to 
a boiling heat in a tinned copper vessel; keep the 
mixture boiling for thirty-six hours, and occasion- 
ally add water to keep up the original quantity, 
then add some powdered charcoal and also some 
ciialk to get rid of the acid; strain and evaporate it 
by a gentle heat to the consistence of a syrup, and 
set by to crystallize. 

Birch sugar. 

Wound the trees in the spring of the year by bor- 
ing a hole under a large arm of the tree quite 
through the wood as far as the bark of the opposite 
side^ collect the sap which flows from the wound, 
and evaporate it to a ])roper consistence: these are 
the native sugars of cold countries, and might be 
made in England for ail the purposes of home con- 
sumption. 

To make pear sugar. 

It is obtained by expressing the juice, adding 
chalk to remove the superabundant acid, and eva- 
porating it to a due consistence; it does not crys- 
tallize, and is a kind of white treacle. One hun- 
dred weight of apides yielus about 84 lbs. of this 
juice, which will produce nearly 12 lbs. of this 
substance. 

Grape sugar. 

The brown sugar obtained from grapes by the 
usual process, being previously freed from the 
acids and sulphate of lime that existed in the 
original juice, yields by refining 75 per cent, of a 
white granular sugar, 24 of a kind of treacle with a 
little gum, and some raalate of lime. 
'J'o candy orange peel. 

Soak the peels in co.d water, which change fre- 
quently till they lose tlveir bitterness; then put them 
into syrup till they become soft and transparent. 
Then they are to be taken out and drained. 
JLemon peel. 

This is made by boiling lemon peel with sugar, 
and then exposing to the air until the sugar crys- 
tallizes. 





82 



UNIVEllSAL RECEIPT BOOK, 



To colmir candied sugar. 

lied. — Boil an oz. of cochineal in half a pint of 
water for 5 minutes, add an oz. of cream of tartar, 
half an oz. of pounded alum, and boil them on a 
slow fire 10 minutes; if it shows the colour clear on 
white paper, it is sufficient Add 2 oz. of sugar, 
and bottle it for use. 

nine. — Put a little warm water on a plate, and 
rub an intligo-stone in it till the colour has come 
to the tint required. 

Yelloiv. — Rub with some water a little gamboge 
on a plate; or infuse the heart of a yellow lily 
flower with milk-warm water. 

Green. — Boil the leaves of spinach about a mi- 
nute in a little wator, and when strained bottle the 
liquor for use. — In colouring refined sugais, taste 
and fancy must guide. 

To make devices in sugar. 

Steep gum tragacanth in rose-water, and with 
donSle refined sugar make it into a paste, and co- 
lour and mould it to fancy. 

Whipt syllabub. 

Rub a lump of loaf sugar on the outside of a 
lemon, and put it into a pint of thick cream, and 
sweeten it to taste. Squeeze in the juice of a 
lemon, and add a glass of Madeira wine, or French 
brandy. Mill it to a froth with a chocolate mill, 
take off the froth as it rises, and lay it in a hair 
sieve. Fill one half of the glass with red wine, 
then lay the froth as high as possible, but take care 
that it is well drained in tlie sieve, otherwise it 
will mix with the wine, and the syllabub be spoiled. 
Solid syllabub. 

To a quart of rich cream put a quart of white 
wine, the juice of two lemons, with the rind of one 
grated, and sweeten it to taste. Whip it up well 
uid take off the froth as it rises. Put it upon a 
hair sieve, and let it stand in a cool place till the 
pext day. Then half fill the glasses with the scum, 
and heap up the froth as high as possible. The 
bottom will look clearand it will keep several days. 
Snow balls. 

Pare and take out the cores of five large baking 
apples, and fill the holes with orange or quince mar- 
r ilade. Then take some good hot paste, roll the 
apples in it, and make the crust of an equal thick- 
ness; put them ill a tin dripping pan, bake them in 
a moderate oven, and when taken out, make iceing 
for them; let the same be a :|^ of an inch thick, and 
set them a good distance from the fire until they 
become hardeneii, but be cautious that they are 
not browned. 

Capillaire. 

Mix six eggs well beat up, with fourteen pounds 
of loaf sugar, and 3 pounds of coarse sugar. Put 
them into three quarts of water, boil it twice, skim 
k well, and add a ;J of a pint of orange flower wa- 
ter; strain it through a jelly-bag, and put it into 
bottles for i«se. A spc^nful or two of this syrup 
put into a draught of either cold or warm water, 
makes it drink exceedingly pleasant. 

To make confectionary drops. 

Take double refined sugar, pound and sift it 
throi:gh a hair sieve, not too fine; and then sift it 
through a silk sieve, to take out all the fine dust, 
which would destroy the beauty of the d^op. Put 
the sugar into a clean pan, and moisten ■ ' with any 
favourite aromatic; if rose-water, pour it in slowly, 
stirring it with a paddle, which the sugar will fall 
from, as soon as it is moist enough, without stick- 
ing. Coloui' it with a small quantity of liquid car- 
mine, or any other colour, ground fine. Take a 
small \)an with a lip, fill it three parts with paste, 
place it on a small stove, the half hole beiiig of the 
size of the pan, and stir the sugar with a little ivoiy 
or bone handle, until it becomes liquid. When it 
almost boils, take it from the fire and continue to 



stir it; if it be too moist take a little of the pow- 
dered sugar, ami add a spoonful to the paste, ant! 
stir it till it is of such a consistence as to run with- 
out too much extension. Have a tin plate, verv 
clean and smooth; take the little pan in the left 
hand, and hold in the right a bit of iron, copper or 
silver wire, four inches long, to take off the drop 
from the lip of the pan, and let it fall regularly on 
the tin plate; two hours afterwards take off th«r 
drops with the blade of a knife. 
Chocolate drops. 

Scrape the chocolate to powder, and put an ounce 
to each pound of sugar; moisten the paste with 
clear water, work it as above, only take car^^ to use 
all the paste prepared, as, if it be put on the fire 
a second time, it greases, and the drop is not of the 
proper thickness. 

O'^ange fioxver drops. 

These ai'e made as the sugar drops, only using 
orange flower water; or instead of it, use the es- 
sence of naroli, which is the essential oil of that 
flower. 

Coffee drops. 

An ounce of coffee to a pound of sugar will form 
a strong decoction; when cleared, use it to mois- 
ten the sugar, and then make the drops as above. 
Peppernmit drops. 

The only requisites to m.ake these are, extreme 
cleanluiess, the finest sugar, and a few drops of the 
essence of peppermint. 

Clove drops. 

These are made as the cinnamon drops, the 
cloves being pounded, or the essence used. Good 
cloves should be black, heavy, of a pungent smell, 
hot to \he taste, and full of oil. 
Ginger drops. 

Pound and sift through a silk sieve the requirec' 
quantity of ginger, according to the strength want- 
ed, and add it to the sugar with clear watur. China 
ginger is the best, being aromatic as well as hot 
and sharp tasted. 

Licpiorice lozenges. 

Take of extract of liquorice, double refined su 
gar, each 10 oz. — tragacanth, powdered, 3 oz. 
Powder them thoroughly, and make them into lo- 
zenges with rose-water. — I'liese are agreeable pec- 
torals, and may be used at pleasure in tickling 
coughs. The above receipt is the easiest aiul best 
mode of making these lozenges. Refined extract 
of liquorice should be used; and it is easily pow- 
dered in the cold, after it has been laid for some 
days in a dry and rather warm place. 
Extract of liquorice. 

The liquorice root is lo be boiled in eight times 
its weight of water, to one half; the liquor is then 
to je expressed, and after the tajces have subsided, 
to be filtered; it is then to be evaporated, with a 
heat between ^00° and :212°, until it becomes thick- 
ish; and, lastly, it is to be evaporated with a heat 
less than 200°, and fre(juently stiried, until it ac- 
quires a coiisistence proper for forming pills. This 
is made into little 'j.astils, or flat cakes, often 
bearing the impression of the places where they 
are made: and a bit now and then put into the 
mouth takes oft' the tickling of a cough. It should 
be sucked to make it pleasant, as much of the juice 
taken at a time is unpleasant. 

To prepare liifiorice juice. 

Take up th? roots in July; clean them perfectly 
as soon as out of the eartli, then hang them up in 
the air, till nearly dry; after this cut them into thin 
slices, and boil them in water till the decoction is 
extremely strong; then press it hard out to obtain 
all the juice from the roots. This decoction is left 
to settle a little, and when it has deposited its 
coarser parts, pour it ofl" into vessels, evaporate it 
over a fire, strong first, but auld afterwards till it 



CONFECTIONARY. 



183 



fte«omes of a thick consistence, then let the fire go !] 
out, and when the extract is cool take out large | 
jwrcels of it at a time, and work them well with 
the liaiids, forming them into cyliiidric masses, \\ 
which cut into sncli lengtlis as required, roll tliem 
over half-dried buy leaves, which adhere to their 
surfiices, and leave them exposed to the sun, till 
{lerfectly (h'ied. Great nicety is to be observed at 
the end of the evaporation, to get the extract to a 
proper consistence without letting it burn. 
Refined lupiorice. 

Tliat deseri[)tion of article which is vended in 
thin, rounded, and glazed pieces, about the thick- 
ness of a crow's quill, is entirely p'-epareU in this 
country. The whole process consists in evaporat- 
ing the liquorice-ball anew, and purifying it by 
rest, with tiie help of isinglass, &c. 

'J'o candy orange marmalade. 

Cut the clearest Seville oi'anges into two, take 
out all the juice and (lulp into a basin, and pick all 
the skins and seeds out of it. Boil tiie rinds in hard 
water till they become tender, and change the wa- 
ter two or three times while they are boiling. 
T'hen pound them in a marble mortar, and add to 
it the juice and jjulp; put them next into a pre- 
serving pan with double their weight in loaf sugar, 
and set it over a slow fire. iJoil itrather more than 
half an hour, put it into pots; cover it with brandy 
paper, and tie it close down. 

To make transparent marmalade. 

Cut vevy pale Seville oranges into quarters; take 
out the pulp, put it into a basin, and pick out the 
skins and seeds. Put the peels into a little salt 
and water, and let them stand all night, then boil 
them in a good quantity of spring water until they 
are tender; cut- them in very thin slices, and ptit 
them into the pulp. To every pound of marmalade 
put one pound and a half of double refined beaten 
sugar; boil them together gently for 20 miiiutes; 
if they are not transparent, boil them a few mi- 
nutes longer. Stir it gently all the time, and take 
care not to breaK the slices. When it is cold, put 
it into jelly and sweetmeat glasses tied down tight. 
JSiirberry marmalade. 

Mash the barberries in a little water, on a warm 
stove; pass them through a hair sieve with a pad- 
dle; weigh the pulp and put it back on the fire; 
reduce it to one half, clarify a pound of sugar and 
boil it well; put in the pulp, and boil it together 
for a few minutes. 

Quince marmaldde. 

Take quinces that are quite ripe, pare and cut 
them in quarters, take out the cores, put them in 
n stew-pan with spring water, nearly enough to 
cover them, keep them closely covered and let 
them stew gently till they are quite soft and red, 
then mash and rub them through a hair sieve. 
Put them in a pan over a gentle fire, with as much 
thick clarified sugar as the weight of the quinces; 
boil them an hour ai\d stir the whole time with a 
wooden spoon to prevent its sticking: put it into 
pots and when cold tie them down. 
Scotch marmalade. 

Take of the juice of Seville oranges, 2 pints, — 
yellow honey, 2 lbs. Boil to a proper consistence. 
Hartshorn jsily. 

Boil half a pound of hartshorn in thi-ee quarts of 
water over a gentle fire till it becomes a jelly; when 
a little hangs on a spoon it is done enough. Strain 
it hot, put it into a well tinned saucepan, and add 
to it iialf a pint of Rhenish wine, and a quarter of 
a pound of loaf sugar. Beat the whites of four eggs 
, or more to a froth, stir it sufiiciently for th.e whites 
to mix well with the jelly, and pour it in as if cool- 
ing it. Boil it two or three minutes, then p^t in 
the juice of four lemons, and let it boil two mi- 
tuiias longei'. When it is finely curdled and of a 



pure white, pour it into a swan-skin jelly bag over 
a China basin, and pour it l>ack again until it be- 
comes as clear as rock- water; set a veiy clean Chi- 
na basin under, fill the glasses, put some thin le- 
mond rind into the basin, and when the jelly is all 
run out of the bag, with a clean spoon fill the rest 
of the glasses, and they will look of a fine amber 
colcui. Put in lemon and sugar agreeable to the 
palate. 

JVhipt cream. 

Mix the wnitcs of eight eggs, a quart of thick 
creaiT), and half a pint of sack, sweeten them to 
taste with double refined sugar. It may be per- 
fumed with a little musk or ambergris tied in a 
rag and steeped in a little cream. Whip it up with 
a whisk, and some lemon-peel tied in the middle 
of the whisk. Then lay the froth witli a spoon in 
the glasses or basins. 

Pistac/uo cream. 

Beat half a pound of pistachio nut keme!s in a 
mortar with a spoonful of brandy. Put them into 
a pan with a pint of good cream, and the yolks of 
two eggs beaten fine. Stir it gently over the fire 
till it grows thick, ai.d then put it into a China 
soup plate. When it is cold stick it over with 
small pieces of the nuts, and send it to table. • 
Ice cream. 

To a pound of any preserved fruit add a quart 
of good cream, squeeze the juice of two lemons 
into it and some sugar to taste. Let the whole be 
rubbed through a fine hair sieve, and if raspberry, 
strawberry, or any red fruit, add a little cochineal 
to heighten the colour; have the freezing pot nice 
and clean; put the cream into it and cover it; then 
put it into the tub with ice beat small, and some 
salt; turn the freezing pot ^uick, and as the cream 
sticks to the sides, scrape it dowu with an ice 
spoon, and so on till it is frozen. The more the 
cream is worked ^o the side with the spoon, the 
smoother and better flavoured it will be. After i* 
is well frozen, take it out an<l put it into ice-shapei 
with salt and ice; then carefully wash the shapef 
for fear of any salt adhering to them; dip them ic 
lukewarm water and send them to table. 

Another method. — Bruise two pottles of straw 
berries in a basin with half a pint of good cream 
a little currant jelly, and some cold clarified sugar, 
rub this well through the tammy, and put it in an 
ice pot well covei-ed; then set it in a tub of broken 
ice with plenty of salt; when it grows thick about 
the sides, stir it with a spoon, and cover it close 
again till it is perfectly frozen through; cover it 
well with ice and salt both ur.der and over, and 
when it is frozen change it into a mould and cover 
well with ice. Sweeten a little pla'.n cream with 
sugar an 1 orange flower water, and treat it the 
same; likewise any other fi'iiit, .vithout cream, may 
be mixed as above. This is called water ice. 
C arrant jelly. 

Take the juice of red currants, 1 lb. sugar, 6 oz. 
Boil down. 

Another method. — Take the juice of red currants, 
add white sugar, equal quantities. 

Stir it gently and smoothly for three hours, put 
it into glasses, and in three days it will concrete 
into a firm jelly. 

Black currant jelly. 

Put to ten quarts of ripe dry black currants, one 
quart of water; put them in a large stew-pot, tie 
paper close over them, and set tliera for two hours 
in a cool oven. Squeeze them through a fine cloth, 
and add to every quart of juice a pound and a half 
of loaf sugar broken into small pieces. Stir it till 
the sugar is melted; when it boils, skim it quite 
clean. Boil it pretty quick over a clear fire, till it 
jellies, which is known by dipping a skimmer in- 
to the jelly and holding it in the air; -when it hangs 



184 



CJXIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



to the spoon in a drop, it is done. If the jelly is 
boiled too long, it will lose its flavour and shrink 
very much. Pour it into pots, cover them \vit!» 
brandy papers, and keep iheni in a dry place. Red 
and while jellies are made in the same way. 
_ Apple jdly. 

Take of apple juice strained, 4 lbs. sugar, 1 lb. 
Boil to a jelly. 

Siravjberry jelly. 

Take of the juice of strawberries, 4 lbs. sugar, 
2 lbs. Boil down. 

Gooseberry jelly. 

Dissolve sugnr in about half its weight of water, 
and boil: it will be nearly solid when cold; to this 
syrup add an equal weight of goosebeny juice, and 
give it a boil, but not long, for otherwise it will 
not fix. 

Raspberi^y cremn. 

Rub a quart of raspberries through a hair sieve, 
and take out the seeds, and mix it well with cream; 
sweeten it with sugar to your ta^te, then put it in- 
to a stone jug, and raise a froth with a chocolate 
mill. As the froth rises, take it off with a spoon, 
and lay it upon a hair sieve. When there is as 
much froth as wanted, put what cream remains in 
a deep (Jbina dish, and pour the frothed cream up- 
on it, as high as it will lie on. 

liaspberry jam. 

Mash a quantity of iine ripe dry raspberries, 
strew on them their own weight of loaf sugar, and 
half their weight of white cun'ant juice. Boil 
them half an hour over a clear slow fire, skim them 
well, and put them into pots or glasses; tie tiiem 
down with brandy papers, and kee[) them dry. 
Strew on the sugar as quick as possible after the 
berries are gathered, and in order to preserve their 
flavour they must not stand long before boiling 
them. 

Strawberry jaiu. 

Bruise very fine some scarlet strawberries, ga- 
thered when quite lipe, and put to them a little juice 
of red currants. Beat and sift their weight in su- 
gar, strew it over them, and put them into a pre- 
serving pan. Set the.-.a over a clear slow fire, skim 
them, then boil them 20 minutes, and put them 
into glasses. 

Raspberry paste. 

Mash a quart of raspberries, strain one half and 
pt.t the juice to the other half; boil (hen. a quarter 
Ot'aii hour, put to them a pint of red currant juice, 
and let tliem boil all together, till the raspberries 
are done enough. Then put 1^ lbs. of double re- 
fined sugar into a clean pan, with as much water as 
will dissolve it, boil it to a sugar again; then put 
in the raspberries and juice, scald and pour them 
into glasses. Put them into a stove to dry, and 
turn them when necessary. 

Damson cheese. 

Boil the fruit in a sufficient quantity of water to 
cover it; strain the pulp through a very coarse 
sieve; to each lb. add 4 oz. of sugar. Boil it till 
it begins to candy on the sides, then pour it into 
tin moulds. Other kinds of plums may be treated 
in the same way, as also cherries, and several kinds 
of fi-uit. 

An omelette soujjie. 

Put 2 oz. of the powder of chesnuts into a skil- 
let, then add 2 yolks of new laid eggs, and dilute 
the whole wim a little cream, or even a little wa- 
ter; when this is done, and tlie ingredients well mix- 
ed, leaving no lumps, add a bit of the best fi'esh 
butter, about the size of an egg, and an equal 
quantity of powdered sugar; tiien put the skillet 
on tlie fire, and keep Stirling the contents; when 
the cream is fixed i.nd thick enough to ad- 
here to the spoon, let it bubble up once or twi"e, 
and take it from the fire; then add a tlurd while of 



an egg to those you have already set aside, and 
wliip them to the consistency of snow; then amal- 
gamate the whipped whites of eggs and the cream, 
btirring them with a light and equ:.! hand, pour tlie 
contents into a deej) dish, sift over with double re- 
fined sugar, and place the dish on a stove, with a 
fire over it as well as under, and in a quarter of an 
hour the cream will rise like an omelette honjfie; as 
soon as it rises about 4 inches, it is fit to serve up. 
(Orgeat paste. 

Blanch and pound three quarters of a pound of 
sweet, and a quarter of a pound of bitter almonds; 
pound them in a mortar, and wet them sufficiently 
with orii.ige flower water, that they may not oil. 
When they are pounded fine, add three quarters of 
a pound of fine powdered sugar to them, and mix 
the whole in a stift' paste, which put into pods for 
use. It will keep six months; wiien wanted to 
be used, take a piece about the size of an egg, and 
mix it with half a pint of water, and squeeze it 
through a napkin. 

Pate de Gidmauve. 

Take of decoction of marshmallow roots, 4 oz. 
water, 1 gallon. Boil 4 pints and strain; then add 
gum arable, ^alb. refined sugar, 2 lbs. Evaporats 
to an extract, then take from the fire, stir it quick- 
ly with the whiles of 12 eggs, previously beaten tor 
a frotli; then add, whi.c stirring, J oz. of orange- 
flower water. 

Another. — Take of very white gum arable, and 
white sugar, each 2^ lbs. with a sufiicient quantity 
of boiling water. Dissolve, strain, and evaporate 
without boiling, to the consister.ee of lioney: beat 
up .he while of six eggs with four drachms of 
orange-flower water, w hich mix gradually with the 
paste, and evaporate over a slow fire, stirring it 
continually till it will not slick to the fingers; it 
should be very light, spongy, and extremely white. 
Pate de jujubes. 

Take of raisins stoned, 1 lb. — currants picked, 
jujubes, opened, each 4 oz. — water, a sufllcieni 
quantity. Boil; strain with expression, add sugar, 
2^ lbs. gum arable, 2-^ lbs. previously made into a 
mucilage with some water, and strain; evaporate 
gently, pour into moulds, finish by diying in i» 
slove, and then divide it. 



PICKUNG. 



This branch of domestic economy comprises a 
great variety of articles, which are essentially ne- 
cessary to the convenience of families. It is at the 
same time too prevalent a practice to make use ot 
brass utensils to give jiiokle a fine colour. I'his 
pernicious custom is easily avoided by healing the 
liquor, and keeping it in a proper degree of warmth 
before it is puuied upon the pickie. Stone jars 
are the best adapted for sound keeping. Pickles 
sliouid never be liandled with the fingers, bat by » 
spoon kepi for the purpose. 

To pickle onions. 

Put a suflicient quantity into salt and water for 
nine days, observing to change the water every Uayj 
next put them into jars and pour fresii boiling salt 
and water over them, cover them close uj) tiii they 
are cold, then make a second decoction of sail and 
water, and pour it on boiling. Wlieii.it is cold, 
drain the onions on a hair sieve, and put them Into 
wide-mouthed bottles; fill them up with distilltrj 
vinegar; put into every bo^ile a slice or two of gin- 
ger, a blade of mace, and a tea-spoonful of sweet 
oil; which will keep the onions wliite. Cork then^ 
well up in a dry place. 

J'o vialce saur kraut. 

Take a large strong wooden vessel, or cask, re- 
sembling a sait-beef cask, and capable of coulaiiv- 



PICKLLVG. 



185 



mg as much as i& sufficient for the winter's con- 
suii)i)tion of M family. Gradunlly break down or 
.shop tlie calibas^ps (<leprivcKl of niilsii)e grecij 
leaves), into -ery sniall j/ieces; begin 'I'itb one nr 
two cabbagcsr at iho b ittoin of t'.ie "ask, and add 
others at intervals, pressin;^; tliem t)y means of a 
wooden snade against tlie side of the cask, until it 
is full. I'heii ;il:'.ce a heav)- weijlit u|toii the top 
of it, nnd ai!o»v il to stand near to a ^\al■m i)laci', for 
foni or iive days. By this time it will have nnder- 
(^oiie fermentation, a;id be reac'y for use. Whilst 
the cal)ba.2;es are passing through the process of 
fermentation, a very disaoreeable, fetid, acid smell 
is exhaled from ibem; now I'emove the cask to a 
cool situation, and keep it always covered up. 
Strew aniseeds an)ong the layers of the cabbages 
(luring its prei)aration, which communicates a pe- 
culiar flavour to tl.e sa\u- kraut at an after period. 

In boiling it for the table, tv.o hours are the- pe- 
riod far it to be on the lire. It forms an excellent 
nutritious and antiscorbutic food for winter i;*!!-. 
J-'eocalllli — India?! method. 

This covisists of all kinds of pickles mixed and 
put into one large jar — girkins, sliced cucumbers, 
button onions, cauliHowers, bpoken in pieces. S^slt 
them, or put them in a large hair sieve in the sun 
to dry for three days, then scald them in vinegar a 
few minutes; when cold put them t igether. Cut 
a large white cabbage in quarters, with the outside 
leaves taken otf and cut tine, salt it, and put it in 
the sun to dry for three or four daj's; then scald it 
in vinegar, the same as cauliflower, carrots, three 
parts, boiled in vinegar and a little bay salt. P"rench 
beans, rack samphire, reddish pods, and mastur- 
chions, all go through the same process as girkins, 
capsicums, bee. I'o one gallon of \inegar put four 
ounces of ginger bruised, two ounces of whole 
white pepper, two ounces of allspice, half an ounce 
of chillies bruised, four ounces of turmeric, one 
pound of the best mustard, half a pound of shallots, 
one ounce of garlic, and half a pound of bay salt. 
Tlie vinegar, spice, and other ingred'ents, except 
the mustard, must boil half an hour; then strain it 
into a pan, put the mustard into a large basin, with 
a little vinegar; mix il quite fine and tree from 
lumps, then add more; when well mixed put il to 
tlie vinegar just strained ofl^, and when quite cold 
put the pickles into a large pan, and the li(|Uor over 
them; stir them repeatedly, so as to mix them all; 
finally, put them into ajar, and tie them over first 
with a bladder, and afterwards with leather. The 
capsicums want no preparation. 

'! pickle sampldre. 

Put what quantity wante<l into a clean pan, throw 
over it two or three handsful of salt, and cover it 
with spring water for twenty-four hours; next put 
It into a clean saucepan, throw in a handful of salt, 
and cover it with good vinegar. Close the pan 
tight, set il over a slow fire, and lef it stand till 
the samphire is green and crisp; then take it oft" 
instantly, for should il remain till it is soft, it will 
be totally spoiled. Put it into the pickling pot 
and cover il close, when it is quite cold tie it down 
with a bla(Uler and leather, and set it by for use. 
Samphire may he preserved all the year by keep- 
ing il in a very strong brine of salt and water, and 
just before using it put it for a few minutes into 
some of the best vinegar. 

JMushruoms. 

Put the smallest that can be got into spring wa- 
ter, and rub them with a piece of new flannel dip- 
ped in salt. Throw them into cold water as they 
are cleaned, which will make them keep their co- 
lour: next put theni into a saucepan with a handful 
of salt ujion them. Cover them close, and set 
them over the fire four or five minutes, or till the 
heat draws the liquor from them; next lay them be- 



twixt two dry cloths till t!iey are cold; ])Ut thp'n 
into glass bottles and fill them up with distilled vi- 
negar, with a blade of mace and a tea-spoonful of 
sweet oil into every bottle; cork them up close and 
set them in a dry cool place; as a sidjstitule for dis- 
tilled vinegar, use white wine vinegar, oi ale. 
Allegar will do, but it must be boiled with a little 
mace, salt, and afew slices of ginger, and it must be 
quite cold before it is poured upon the mush- 
rooms. 

Jljiotlier method. — Bruise a quantity of well 
grown flaps of mushrooms with the hands, and 
then strew a fair proportion of salt over them; let 
them stand all night, and the next day put them 
into stew])ans; set them in a quick oven for 12 
hours, and strain them through a liair sieve. To 
every gallon of liquor put of cloves, Jamaica black 
pep\i^-r, and ginger, one ounce each, -J a lb. of com- 
niiin saU; set it on a slow lire, an '. let it boi^ till 
half the liquor is wasted; then put it into a clean 
pot, and when cold bottle it for use. 
Cuciimben,. 

Let them be as free from spots as possible; take 
the smallest that can be got, |)Ut them into strong 
salt and water for nine days, till they become yel- 
low; stir them at least twice a day; should they be- 
come perfectly yellow, pour the water off and co- 
ver them with plenty of vine leaves. Set the water 
over the fire, and when it boils, pour it over them, 
and set them upon the earth to keep warm. When 
the water is almost cold make it boil again, and 
pour it upon them; proceed thus till they are of a 
fine green, which they will be in four or five 
times; keep them well covered with vine leaves, 
with a cloth and dish over the top to keep in the 
steam, which will help to green them. 

When they are greened put them in a hair sieve 
to (h'ain, and then to every two quarts of white 
wine vinegar put half an ounce of mace, ten or 
twelve cloves, an ounce of ginger, cut into slices, 
an ounce of black pepper, and a handful of sail. 
Boil them all together, tor five mmutes; pour il hot 
on the pickles, and tie them down for use. They 
may also be pickled with ale, ale vinegar, or dis- 
tilled vinegar, and adding three or four cloves oi 
garlic and shallots. 

Walnuts -vkile. 

Pare green walnuts very thin till the white ap- 
pears, then throw them int" spring water with a 
handful of salt, keep them under water six hours, 
then put them into a stew-pan to simmer five mi- 
nutes, hut do not let them boil; take them out and 
put them in coid water and salt; they must be kept 
quite under tlie water with a board, otherwise they 
will not pickle white; then lay them on a cloth and 
cover them with another to dry; carefully rub 
ihenri with a soft cloth, and put them into the jar, 
with some blades of mace and nutmeg sliced thin. 
Mix the spice between the nuls and pour distilled 
vinegar over them; when the jar is full of nuts pour 
mutton fat over them, and tie them close down 
with a bladder and leather to keep out the air. 
Jivtijicial anchovies. 

To a peck of sprats pa. two poun.Is of salt, three 
ounces of bay salt, one po'::id of salt-pttre, two 
ounces of prunella, and a few grains of cochineal; 
pound all in a mortar, put into a stone pan first a 
layer of sprats and then one of the compound, and 
so on alternately to the top. Press them down 
hard; cover them close for six months, and they 
will be ft foi use, and will really produce a most 
excellent flavoured sauce. 

Salmon. 

Boil the fish gently till done, and then take it up, 
strain the liquor, add bay leaveu, pepper corns, 
and salt; give these a boil, and when cold add the 
best vinegar to them; then put the whole su''icicut- 



1R6 



UNINTIRSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



ly oTer the fish to cover it, and let it remain a 
month at least. 

To preserve fish by sitgnr. 

Fish may be preserved in a dry stale, and per- 
fectly fresh, by means of sugar alone, and even 
with a very small quantity of it. 

Fresh tish may be kept in tliat state for some 
days, so as to be as good when boiled as if just 
caught. If dried, and liept free from mouidiness, 
there seems no limit to their preservation; anil 
they are much better in this way than when salted. 
The sugar gives no disagreeable taste. 

This process is particularly valuable in making 
what is called kippjred salmon; and the fish pre- 
served in this manner are far superior in quality 
and flavour to those which are salted or smoked. 
If desired, as much salt may be used as to give the 
taste that may he required; but this substance does 
not conduce to .heir preservation. 

In the preparation it is barely necessary to open 
the fish, and to apply the sugar to the muscular 
parts, placing it in a horizontal position for 2 or 3 
days, that this substance may peneirate. After this 
it may be dried; and it is only further necessary to 
wipe and ventilate it occasionally, to prevent moui- 
diness. 

A table spoonful of brown sugar is sufScient in 
this manner for a salmon of 5 or 6 pounds weight; 
and if salt is desired, a tea-spoonful or more may 
be added. Saltpetre may be used instead, in llie 
same proportion, if it is desired to make the kipper 
hard. 

To salt hams. 

For three hams, pound and mix together half a 
peck of salt, half an ounce of salt prunella, three 
ounces of salt-petre, and four pounds of coarse 
salt; rub the hams well with this, and lay what is 
to spare over them, let them lie three days, tlien 
hang them up. Take the pickle in which the 
haras were, put water enough to cover the hsms 
with more common salt, till it will bear an ^^^, 
then boil and skim it well, put it in the salting tub, 
and tlie next morning put it to tlie hams; keep tliem 
down the same as pickled pork; in a fortnight take 
them out of the liquor, rub them well with brine, 
and hang them up to dry. 

Tu dry salt beef and pork. 

Lay the meat on a table or in a tub with a dou- 
ble bottom, that the bune may drain off as fast as 
it forms, rub tlie salt well in, and be careful to ap- 
ply it to every niche; afterwards put it into either 
of tlie aboAe utensiis, wht n it must be frequently 
turned; after the brine has ceased rumiing, it must 
be quite buried in salt, and kept closely packed. 
Meat which lias liad the bones taken out is the best 
for salting. In some places the salted meat is press- 
e(i by heavy weights or a .screw, to extract the 
moisture sooner. 

To pickle in bri7ie. 

A good brine is made of bay salt and water, 
thoroughly saturated, so that some of the salt re- 
mains undissolved; into this brine the substances 
to be preserved are plunged, and kept covei-ed 
with it. Among vegetaoles, French beans, arti- 
chokes, olives, and tk^ different sorts of samphire 
may be thus preserved, and among animals, her- 
rings. 

To salt by anotlier method. — Mix brown sugar, 
bay salt, common salt, each 2 lbs. salt-petre, 8 oz. 
water, "2 gallons; this pickle gives meats a fire red 
colour, wl»iie the sugar renders them mi.'d and of 
excellent flavour. — Large quantities are to be ma- 
naged by the above proportions. 



TO FHESEllVE FRUITS. 
Some rules aire necessary to be observed iii this 



j branch of confectionary. In the first place, ob- 
serve in making sjrups that the sugar is well 
pounded and dissolved, before it is placed on the 
fire, otherwise their scum wi;i not rise well, nor 
the fruit obtain its fine colour. When stone fruit 
is preserved, cover them with mutton suet render- 
ed, to exclude the air, which is sure ruin to them. 
All wet sweetmeats must be kept dry and cool to 
preserve them from mouidiness and damp. Dip a 
piece of writing paper in brandy, lay it close to 
the sweetmeats, cover them tight with paper, and 
they will keep well for any length of time; but will 
inevitably spoil without these precautions. 

Another method. — The fruit, if .succulent, is first 
soaked for some hours in very hard water, or in a 
weak alum water, to harden it, and then to be 
drained upon the fruit, either prepared or not; poui 
syrup, boiled to a candy iieight, and half cold; nf- 
ter some hours the syrup, weakened bv the sauce 
of the fruit, is to be poured oft', re-boiled, and pour- 
ed on again, and this repeat several times. When 
the syrup is judged to be no longer weakened, the 
fruit is to be taken out of it, and well drained. 
To bottle damsons. 

Put damsons, before they are too ripe, into wide 
mouthed bottles, and cork them down tight; then 
put them into a moderately heated oven, and about 
three hours more will do them; observe that the 
o\en is not too hot, otherwise it will make the 
fruit fly. All kinds of fruits that are bottled may 
be done in the same way, and they will keep twc 
ye.ars; after they are done, they must be put away 
with the mouth downward, in a cofsl place, to keep 
them from fermenting. 

To preserve barberries. 

Set an equal quantity of barberries and sugar in 
a kettle of boiling vvator, till the sugar is melted, 
and the barberries quite soft; let them remain all 
niglit. Put them next day into a preserving pan, 
arid boil them fifteen minutes, then put them into 
jars, tie them close, and set them by for use. 
To presei'T'e grapes. 

Take close bunches, whetlier white or red, not 
too ripe, and lay them in a jar. Put to them a 
quarter of a pound of sugar candy, and fill the jar 
with common brandy. Tie them up close with a 
bladder, and set them in a dry place. 
To dry cherries. 

Having stoned the desired quantity of raorello 
cherries, put a pound and a quarter of fine sugar to 
everj' pound; beat and sift it over the cherries, and 
let them stand all night. Take them out of their 
sugar^ and to every pound of sugar, put two spoons- 
ful of water. Boil and skim it well, and then put 
in the cherries; boil the sugar over them, and next 
morning strain them, and to every pound of syrup 
put half a pound more sugar; boil it till it is a lit- 
tle thicker, then put in the cherries and let them 
boil gently. The next day strain them, put them 
in a stove, and turn them every day till they are 
dry. 

To clarify honey. 

The best kind is clarified by merely melting it 
in a water bath, and taking ott" the scum; the mid- 
dling kind by dissolving it in water, adding the 
while of an egg to each pint of the solution, and 
boiling it down to its original consistence, skim- 
ming it from time to lime. The inferior kind re- 
quires solution in water, boiling the solution with 
one pound of charcoal to 26 lbs. of honey, adding, 
when an excess of acid is apprehended, a small 
quantity of chalk or oyster shell powfier; next by 
straining it several times tlirough flannel, and re- 
ducing the solution to its original consistence by 
evaporation. 

To preserve candied orange flowers. 

Free them from their cups, stamina and pistils, 
put four ounces into one pound of su2;ar, boiled to 



PERFUMERY, &c. 



187 



4 candy height, and poured on a slab, so as to lie 
formed into cakes. 

Seeck in honey for vegetation. 

Seeds of fruits, or tliin stalk strips, maj^ be pre- 
served by being i>ut into honey; and on being taken 
out. washed, and planted, they will vegetate kindly. 
Fruits in brandy or other spirits. 

Gatb?;r plums, apricots, cherries, \)eaches, and 
other jnicy fruits, before they are perfect'/ ripe, 
and soak them for some hours in hard or alum 
water, to make them firm; as the moisture of the 
fruit weakens the spirit, it ought tc be strong, 
therefore, add five ounces of sugar to each quart 
of spirit. 

Seville oranges -whole. 

VjVlX. a hole at the stem end of the oranges, the 
size of sixpence, take out all the pulp, put the 
oranges in cold water for two days, chaugiog it 
twice a day; boil them rather more t'.ian an houi-, 
but do not cover them, as it will spoil the colour; 
have ready a good syrup, into which put tlie 
oranges, and boil them till they look clear; then 
take out the seeds, skins, &c. from the pulp first 
taken out of the oranges, and add to it one of the 
whole oranges, previously boiled, with an equal 
weight of sugar to it and the pulp: boil this toge- 
ther till it looks clear, over a slow fire, and when 
cohl fill the oranges with this marraaiade, aiid put 
on the tops; cover them with fyrup, and p' ♦. bran- 
dy paper on the top of the jar. It is better to take 
out the inside at first, to preserve the fine flavour 
of tiie juice and pulp, which would be iiijured by 
boiling in the water. 

Cucumbers and melons. 

Take large cucumbers, green, and free from 
seed, put them in a jar of strong salt and water, 
with vine leaves on the top, set them by the fire 
side till they are yellow; then wash and .'et them 
over a slow fire in alum and water, covered with 
vine leaves, let them boil till they become green; 
take them oflT, and let them stand in the liquor till 
cold: then quarter them, and take out the seed and 
pulp: put them in cold spring water, charging it 
twice a day for three days. Have ready a syrup 
made thus: to one pound of loaf sugar, half an 
ounce of ginger bruised, with as much water as 
will wet it; when it is quite free from scum, put 
in, when boiling, ijie rind of a lemon and juice; 
when quite cold, pour the syrup on the melons. 
If the syrup is too thin, after standing two or three 
days, boil it again, and add a little more sugar. A 
spoonful of rum gives it the West Indian flavour. 
Girkiijs may be done in the same way. One ounce 
of alum, when pounded, is sufficient for a dozen 
melons of a raiddlins; size. 



Stra-ioberries whole. 

Take an equal weight ot fruitand double re^'^ed 
sugar, lay the form.er in a large dish, and sprinKle 
half the sugar in fine poivder; give a gentle shake 
to the disli, that the sugar may touch the under 
side of the fruit. Next day make a tiiiii syrup with 
the remainder of the sugar; and allow one pint of 
red currant juice to every three pounds of straw- 
berries; in this simmer them until sn(ficie.'-»ly jel- 
lied. Choose the largest scarlets, not dead n^" 
..,ipricots. 

Infuse J'oung apricots before their stones become 
hard, iota a pan of cold spring water, with plenty 
of vine leaves, set them over a slow fire until they 
are quite yellow, then take them out, and rub their, 
with a flannel and suit to take off the lint: put them 
into the pan to the same water and leaves, cover 
them close at a distance from the fire, until they 
are a fine light green, then pick out all the bail 
ones. Boil the best gently two or three times in 
a thin syrun, and let them be quite cold each time 
before you boil them. When they look plump and 
clear, make a syrup of double refined sugar, but 
not too thick; give your apricots a gentle boil in it, 
and then put tliem into the pots or glasses, dip a 
paper in brandy, lay it over them, tie them close, 
and keep them in a dry place. 

To make candied a^igelica. 

The stalks are to be boiled for a quarter of an 
hour in water, to take away their bitterness, and 
some of the strong scent; they are then to be put 
into syrup, boiled to a full candied height, and 
kept on the fire until they appear quite dry, and 
thea taken out and drained. 

Candied eringo 

Is prepared nearly iu the same manner as can- 
died angelica, but the roots are only slit, and wash- 
ed three or four times in cold water, before they 
are put into the syrup. 

To keep gooseberries. 
. Put an ounce of roche alum, beat very fine, into, 
a large pan of boiling hard water; place a few 
gooseberries at the bottom of a hair sieve, and hold 
them in the water till tliey turn white. Then take 
out the sieve, and spread the gooseberries between 
two cloths; put more into the sieve, then repeat it 
till they are all done. Put the water into a glazed 
pot until the next day, then put the gooseberries 
into wide-mouthed bottles, pick out all the crack- 
ed and broken ones, pour the water clea/ out of 
the pot, and fill the bottles with it, cork them 
loosely, and let them stand a fortnight. If they 
rise to the corks, draw them out and let them stand 
two or three days uncorked, then cork them close 
a<;ain. 



FERFUMliR^ AM-D OOtMHTIOS. 



7 make ean de Colog',^. 

Take of essence de bei'gamotte, 3 oz. neroli, l^ 
liracljms, cedrat, 2 do., lemon, 3 do., oil of rose- 
maiT, 1 do., spii'it ot wine, 12 ius., spirit of rose- 
mary, Sj do., eau de melisse de Carmes, 2^ do. 
Mix. Distil in balneum maiije, and keep it in a 
cold cellar or icehouse for some time. It is used 
as a cosmetic, and made v.itn sugar into a ratafia. 
Euit, de melisse de Carmes. 

Take of dried balm leaves, 4 oz. dried lemon- 



peel, 2 do. , nutmegs and coriander seeds, each, 1 
oz. cloves, cinnamon, and dried angelica roots, 
each, 4 dr. spii-it of wine, 2 lbs. biandy, 2 ditto. 
Steep and distil in balneum mari®, re-distil, and 
keep for some time in a oold cellar. 

Original receipt for the same. — Take of spirit 
of balm, 8 pints, lemon peel, 4 do., nutmegs and 
coriander seeds, each 2 'lo., rosemary, marjoram, 
thyme, hyssop, cinnamon, sage, aniseed, cloves, 
angelica roots, each 1 pint. 'Mix, distil and keep 



188 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



it for a year in an icehouse. — This is the original 
rcript of the barefooted Cannelites, now in ]>os- 
session ot the compan}- of apothecaries of Paris, 
who sel! a vast quantity of tiiis celebrated v.atcr. 
Kau de buuquet. 

Take of street scented honey water, 1 oz. eati 
sans pareille, 1^ do. essence de jasmine, 5 drachms, 
syrup of cloves and spirit of violets, each, 4 dr. 
calamus aromaticus, long- rooted cyperus, lavender, 
each, 2 do. essence of neroli, 1 scruple. ?vlix. 
Some add a fev/ grains of musk and ambergris: it 
is sweet scented, and also made into a ratafia with 
sugar. 

Esseiice de jasmin. 

The flowers are stratified with wool or cotton, 
impregnated with oil of behn, or nut oil, in an 
earthen vessel, closely covered, and kept for some 
time in a warm bath; this is repeated wiih frcsli 
flowei's, until the oil is well scented; the wool. Sic. 
IS then put into a sufficient quantity of spirit of 
wine, and distilled in balneum marice. 
The best honey tvater. 

Take of coriander seeds, a pound, cassia, 4 oz. 
cloves and gum benzoin, each, 2 oz. oil of rhodi- 
um, essence of lemon, essence of bergamot, and 
oil of lavender, each, 1 drachm, rectified spirit of 
wine, 20 pints, rose water, 2 quarts, nutmeg wa- 
ter, 1 quart, musk and ambergris, each, 12 grains. 
Distil in a water bath to diyness. 

Another method. — Put 2 drachms each, of tinct- 
ure of ambergris, and tincture of mi.sk, in a quart 
of rectified spirits of wine, and half a pint of water; 
filter and put it up in small bottles. 
Ottar of roses. 

The royal socie'.y of Edinburgh received from 
Dr Monro the following account of the maimer in 
which this costly perfume is prepared in the east. 
Steep a large quantity of the petals of the rose, 
freed from every extraneous matter, in pure wi;te)', 
in an earthen or wooden vessel, which is exiiosed 
daily to the sun, and housed at night, till a scum 
rises to the surface. This is tlie ottar, which, care- 
luliy absorb by a very small piece of cotton tied to 
the end of a sticl^. The oil collected, squeeze out 
of the cotton into a very diminutive vial, stop it for 
use. The collection of it should be continued 
■whilst any scum is produced. 

English milk of J'oscs. 

Take 2 lbs. of i)ordan almonds, 5 quarts of rose 
water, i do. of rectified spirit of wine, ^ an oz. of 
oil of lavender, 2oz. of Spanish oil soap, and 4 oz. 
of cream of roses. — Blanch tlie aimonds in boiling 
water, dry them well in a cloth, then pound them 
in a mortar until they become a paste. Pound in 
the soap and mix it well with the almond paste. 
Then add the cream of roses. Wlien these are 
mixed, add the rose-water and spirits, which stir in 
with a spatula or knife. Strain the whole through 
a clean white cloth, then add the oil of lavender to 
the expressed liquid, drop by drop, and stir the 
whole well. When the mixture has stood for a 
day, cover it over with a cloth from the dust, then 
bottle it for use. 

French milk of roses. 

Mix together 4 oz. of oil of almonds, ^ an oz. 
of English oil of lavender, 2 quarts ot spirit of 
wine, and 10 do. of rose-water. Ne.xt blanch 3 
lbs. of Jordan almonds, and pound them in a mor- 
tar, witii a quarter of a ])Ound of Spanish oil-soap, 
half an oz. of spermaceti, and half an oz. of white 
wax. Put tliese ingredients into a large jar, with 
two ounces of pearl-ash, dissolved in an ounce of 
warm water. Shake the whole well, and then pour 
it into small bottles for sale. 

Cream of '-oscs. 

Take 1 lb. of oil of sweet almonds, — 1 oz. of 
spermaceti, — 1 oz. of white wax, — I pint of rose 



I water, — and 2 drachms of Malta Pose, or n .-relet 
I essence. Put tin oil, spermaceti, and wax, into a 
I well-glazed pij)kin, ovet a clear fire, and, when 
! melted, pour in the rose-wat"r by degrees, and 
keep healing, till the compound becomes like po- 
; matuia. Now .idd the essence, and then (.>ut the 
j cream into small pots or jars, which mu.-f be well 
! covered up with pieces of bladder, and ^otl skin 
I leathc;'. 

Cold cream poynatvm for the complea-lon. 
Take an ouoL-e of oil of sweet almonds, and lialf 
a drachm each, of white wax and S])erinaceti, with 
a little balm. Melt these ingredients in a glazed 
pipkin, over hot ashes, and pour the solution into 
a marble mortar; stir it with the pestle uiitil it be- 
comes smooth iind cold, then add gradually an 
ounce of rose or orsange-flower water; stir all the 
mixture till incorporated to resemble cream. This 
pomatum renders the rkin at once supple arid 
smootli. To prevent marks from the small pox, 
add a little pow<Jer of saffron. The gallipot in 
which it is kept, should have a piece of bladder 
tied over it. 

Another. — Take 4 ounces of clear trotter oil, 
one ounce of oil of jessamine, 2 ounces of sper- 
maceti, and one oanco of white wax, scraped fiae. 
Melt them toi;eiher very gentl\', then pour it into 
a pan, whicli must be kept by the fire. Now beat 
it with jut iutermisjion, till it becomes one con- 
sistent very white body: tlien ])Ut to it 3 ounces of 
I'ose or orang(:-flower water, witti about a drachm 
of spirit of ambergris, or other sweet essence. 
Beat the mixture viell again, u\itil the water and 
spirit be pro[)erly absorbed. This beating will 
add greatly to the whiteriess as well as the flavour 
of the cream, wliich will now be as white as snow; 
jjarticularly if care is taken tiiat the utensils and 
ingredients 2.1 e quite clean. 

In winter, all the utensils, kc. must be kept 
warm, and the process performeil in a »arm room. 
Even the rose-water must be warmed, prev-Dus to 
mixture, otherwise the cream will ci.ingeal into 
knobs, so as to cause the whole to be melted agiin. 
In summer every thing must be kept cool after 
tiie melting and mixing. More wax must Ifke'vise 
be used in summer than in winter. 

When put into pjts, the cold cream is to be kept 
very cool; each having honey-water poured on the 
top, in order to iinpr')\c the flavour. 
Pi.' made divine. 
Put a pound and a half of clear beef marrow into 
an earthen pan of fresh Mater, and change the same 
for ten daj's, then steep it in rose water for 24 hours, 
and drain it in a cloth till dry. Take an ounce of 
storax, gum benjamin, odoriferous Cv()ress pow- 
der, or of Florence, half an ounce ot ciuiiamon, 
two drachms of cloves, and two drachms of nut- 
meg, all finely powdered: mix them with the mar- 
row, then put the ii^gredients into a three-pint 
pewter pot, make a paste of the white of an egg and 
flour, and lay it upon a piece of rag, over that put 
another piece of linen to cover the top close. Put 
the pot into a hrge copper pot witii water, and keep 
it steady that it may not reach to the covering of 
tlie pot that holds the marrow. As the water 
shrinks, add more, for it must boil foiu' Ijours 
without ceasing; strain the oirtment tliro'.gh a' 
linen cloth into small pots, and when cold cover 
them up close with bladder and paper. Lion't 
touch it with any thing but silver. 

Pearl loattr for the face. 
Put half a pound of best Spanish oil soap, scrap 
ed very fine, into a gallon of boiling water. Stir 
it well for some tiin..-, and let it stand till cold. 
Add a quart of rectified spirit of wine, and half an 
ounce of oil of rosemary; stir them again. Tiiis 
compound liquid, when put up in proper phials ia 



PERFUMERY, &c. 



II 



Italy, is callt'd Unctnre of pearls. It is an excel- 
lent cdsmetif. for .-emovitig iri;ckles from tlie lace, 
ami for im^ moving llie complexion. 

V'o prepare almoin' bloom. 
T;;ke of Brazil ilust, 1 oz. water, 3 pints, isin- 
glass, 6 drachms, cochineal, 2 do. aluiu, 1 oz. bo- 
rax, 3 drachms. 

To make almond paste. 
Take of hlanched sweet almonds, 1 lb. blanched 
bittei' do. ^ lb. sugar, 1 lb. Beat up v,,t!i orange 
flower vater. 

Common almond paste. 
To make <his paste, take six pounds of fresh 
almonds, which bhinchand beat in a stone n-.orlar, 
with a sufficient quantitj' of rose water. Now add 
a pound of finely draMied honey, and mix the whole 
well together. This past'', w'r.ich is exceedingly 
good for tlie hands, is to be jiut into small pots for 
sale. If this paste gets dry, i ub it up on a marble 
slab, with rose ^ater. I'o prevent tliis dryness, 
put about half a teaspoonful of this Avater on the 
top of each pot, before tying up. 
Orange potnutum. 
Take 5 pounds of hog's lard, I pound ot mutton 
suet, 3 ouDces of Portugal water, hnlf an ounce of 
essence of Bvrgamot, 4 ounces of yellow wax, and 
h.'dt a iiouud of palm oil. Mi?.. 
Soft pQinatitm. 
Take 25 pounds of hog's lard, 8 pounds of rout- 
ton suet, f) ounces of oil of Bergamot^ 4 ounces of 
■essence of lemons, half an ounce of oil of laven- 
der, and a quarter of an ounce of oil of rosemary. 
These ingredients are to be combined in the same 
maiv.ier as those for tlie hard pomatum. This po- 
matum is to be put up in ^>ots, in the usual way. 
Common pomatum. 
Take 4 pounds of fresh and white mutton suet, 
skinned and shredded I'ery fine; which melt in 
about two quarts of spring water; and, whilst hot, 
put llie whole into a well glazed earthen pan, small 
at bottom, auel wide at the top. Let it star.d until 
llie fat is quite cold, and all the impurities fall to 
the bottom, which carefully scrape oft". Now break 
tlie fj'.t into small pieces, which put into a pan, with 
2 gallons of spring water, for a whole day; stir and 
wash ofien. Next day change the water, and when 
poured otf a second time, at the end of tweuty- 
fpur hours, dry the fat by rubbins^ in a clean linen 
cloth- Now put the suet, with 1 pound and a "lalf 
of fresh hog's lard, into a large pan, and mglt the 
whole over a genil'^ fire. 'When properly com- 
bined, put the whole into an earthen pan, and beat 
it with ;i wooden spatula, until cold. Whilst beat- 
ing, add 6 drachms of essence of lemon, and 39 
drops of oil of cloves previously mixed together. 
Now continue beating, until the mixture be per- 
fectl) white, and afterwards put it up in\.o small pots. 
Leave the pots open un^il the pomat'im is quite 
c)ld; when cover them by pieces of bladder, &c. 
In summer v.se more suet, and mix in a cool place: 
In winter use more hog's lard, and make the ponia- 
luiu in a warm room. 

Hard pomatum, 
'lake SO lbs of suet, 1^ lbs. of white wax, 6 oz. 
of ' ^enco of Bergamot, 4 ounces of lemon, 1 oz. 
of lavenJer, 4 drachms of oil of rosen>ary, and 2 
drachms of essence of ambergris. Shred and pick 
thi; suei clean, and melt it in an earthen pan or 
pi'tkin. Then stir it well and strain; and when 
nearly cold, add the perfumes, stirring well as be- 
fore. When properly mixed, pour it into tin 
moulds. 

Another. — Take 6 oz. of common pomatum, and 
add to it 3 oz. of white virgin wax, .scraped fine. 
Melt them in an earthen pan, immersed hi a largei- 
one containing boiling- water; bolh beirg placed 
over a clear and steady fire. When properly in- 



corporated, keep stirring, until it is nearly cold; 
then put it into small pots, or make it up into 
small rolls. Petfume it according to taste. 
Itosemary pomatum. 
Strip a large double handful of rosemary; boil it 
in a tin or copper vessel, w'th ».aif apound of com- 
mon soft pomr tum, till it comes to about 3 or 4 oz. 
stiain it oif, and keep it in the usual way. 
Feurl powder for the face. 
There are several sons: the finest is made from 
real pearls, and is llie least hurtful to the skin. It 
gi\ cs the most beautiful appearance, but is too dear 
for common use; still the perfumer ought never to 
oewilhout it, for the use of the curious and the rich. 
Bismitth pearl poiuder. 
The next best pearl powdev is made as follows: 
Take 4 ounces of the best magistery of bismuth, 2 
oimces of fine starch pov.'der. Mix them well to- 
gether, and putting tliem into a subsiding glass, 
wide at top and narrow at oottom, pour over them 
a ])int and a half of proof spirit, and shake them 
well; let them remain a day or two. When the 
powder falls to the bottom, pour offthe spirit, leav- 
ing it dry; then place the glass in the sun, to eva- 
porate the moisture. Next turn out the white mass, 
tlij dirty parts of which form the top, whilst the 
pure ingredients remain at the bottom. If there 
be any dirty particles, scrape them otf, and again 
pulverize tlie remaining ;ku'1 of the cake, and pour 
more proof spirit over it. Proceed as before; and, 
if there be any moisture remaining, place i'le cone 
on a large jiiece of smooth chalk, to abi; rb its 
moisture. Cover the whole with a bell-glass to 
preser-e it from dust, and set it in the sun to dry 
and whiten if. Next grind the mass with a muUer 
on a marble stone; and keep the powder in a glass 
bottle, secured by a ground stopper, from air. 
To blacken xvliite oxide of bismuth by Harrotvgate 
-water. 
Place a little oxide of bismuth on a white dish, 
and pour over it some Harrowgate water. Its 
beautiful white colour will instantly be changed to 
black. 

it is well known that this oxide, under the name 
oi pearl xvhite, is used as a cosmetic by those of the 
fair sex who wish to become fairer. A lady thus 
painted was sitting in a lecture room, where chem- 
istry being the subject, water being impregnated 
with sulphuretted hydrogen gas (Hari'uwgate wa- 
ter) was handed round for inspection. On smell- 
ing this liqi'id, the lady in question became sud- 
denly black in the face. Every person was of 
course alarmed by this sudden chemical change; 
but the lecturer explaining the cause of the phe- 
nomenon, the lady received no farther injuiy, than 
a salutary practical lesson to rely more upon na- 
tural than artificial beauty in future. 

Orange fo-iuer paste for the hands. 
Blanch 5 or 6 lbs. of bitter almonds, by boiling 
in water, and then beat them very fine in a marble 
mortar, with 2 lbs. of orange flowers. If the paste 
be too oily, add to it some bean flour, finely sifted, 
but let no water enter the composition. This paste 
is made abroad, but comes here very damaged, the 
sea-air destroying its properties. 

To wake coral tooth powder. 
Take 4 oz. of coral, reduced to an impalpable 
powder, 8 oz. of very light Armenian bole, I oz. 
of Portugil snuff, 1 oz. of Havanah snuff, 1 oi.. ot 
good burnt tobacco ashes, and 1 oz. of gum myrrh, 
well pulveni.ed. Mix them together, and silt them 
twice, 

A good tooth powder. 
To make a good tooth powder le;-ve out the coral, 
and, in its piace, put in pieces of brown stone-ware, 
re<luced to a very fine powder. This is the com- 
I men way of uiakiug it. 



190 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK 



An astringent for the teeth. 
Take of fresh conserve of roses, 2 oz. the juice 
of half a sour lemon, a little very rough clarot, anil 
6 ounces of coral tooth-powder. Make them into 
a paste, which put up in small pots; and if it dry 
by stantiing, moisten with lemon juice and wine, 
as before. 

To prevent the trath-ache. 

Rub well t!ie teeth and ^ums with a hard tootli- 
brush, using the flowers of sulphur as a tooth pow- 
der, every night on going to bed; and if it is done 
after dinner it will be best: this is an excellent pre- 
sei'vative to the teeth, and void of any unpleasant 
smell. 

Jl radical cure for the tooth-ache . 

Use as a tooth powder the Spanish snuff called 
Sibella, and it will clean the teeth as well as any 
other powder, and totally prevent the tootli-ache; 
and make a regular prpctice of washing beliind the 
ears with cold water every morning. The reme- 
dy is infallible. 

To clean the teeth. 

Take of good Svift water, 1 quart, juice of lemon, 
'2 oz. burnt alum, 6 grains, common salt, 6 grains. 
Mix. Hoil them a minute in a cup, then strain 
and bottle for use: rub the teeth with a small bit of 
sponge tied to a stick, once a week. 
To make the teeth white. 

A mixture of honey with the purest charcoal will 
prove an admirable cleanser. 

^71 excellent opiate for the teeth. 

Well boil and skim 1 lb. of honey: add to it a 
quarter of a pound of bol^ ammoniac, 1 oz. of dra- 
gon's blood, 1 of oil of sweet almonds, half an oz. 
of oil of cloves, 8 drops of essence of bergamot, a 
gill of honey water, all mixed well together, and 
put into pots for use. 

Vegetable tooth brushes. 

Take marine marsh-mallow roots, cut them into 
lengths of 5 or 6 inches, and of the thickness of a 
middling rattan cane. Dry them in the shade, but 
not so as to make them shrivel. 

Next finely pulrt'erize two ounces of good dra- 
gon's blood, put it into a flat bottomed glazed pan, 
with four ounces of highly rectified spirit, and half 
an oz. of i'resh conserve of roses. Set it over a 
g(>ntle charcoal fire, and stir it until the dragon's 
blood is dissolved; then put in about thirty of the 
marsh-mallow sticks; stir them about, and care- 
fully turn them, that all parts maj' absorb the dye 
alike. Continue this until the bottom of the pan 
be quite dry, and shake and stir it over the fire, 
until the sticks are perfectly dry and hard. 

Both ends of each root or stick should, previous 
to immersion in the pan, be bruised gently by a 
hammer, for half an inch downwards, so as to open 
its fibres, and thereby form a brush. 

They are generally used by dipping one of the 
ends in the powder or opiate, and then, by rubbing 
them against the teeth, which they cleanse and 
whiten admirably. 

Other vegetable tooth brushes. — There are sev- 
eral cheap sorts of these tooth-brushes, which are 
made in the same manner as the genuine ones, ex- 
cept that, as a basis, rattan cane, or even common 
deal, cut round, is used instead of the marsh-nial- 
Low roots. 

Rose I'p salve. 

Put eight ounces of the best olive oil into a wide- 
mouthed bottle, add two ounces of the small parts 
of alkanet-root. Stop up the bottle, and set it in 
the sun; shake it often, until it be of a beautiful 
crimson. Now strain the oil off very clear from 
the roots, and add to it, in a glazed pipkin, three 
ounces of very fine white wax, and the same quan- 
tity of fresh clean mutton suet. Deer suet is too 



brittle; and alsr apt to turn yellow. Melt this dj 
a slow fire, anr' perfume it when taken off, with for- 
ty drops of oil of rhodium, or of laven.ier. When 
cold, put it into small gallipots, of rather whilst in 
a lii'uid state. 

The coniinon way is to make this salve up into 
small cakes; but in that form the colour is very apt 
to he impaired. 

This salve never fails to cure chopped or sore 
lil)S, if applied pretty freely at bed-time, in the 
course of a da}"- or two at farthest. 

Another method. — Beat the alkanet root in a 
mortar, until its fibres are properly bruised, tiien 
tie it up in a piece of clean linen rag, and put this 
in a clean pipkin with the oil. When the oil has 
begun to boil, it will be foun'1 of a deep red . Tlie 
bag is now to be taken out, pressed, and throwr 
away, and then the other ingredients are to be add- 
ed, as above. 

White lip salve. 
This may be made as above, excejjt in the use 
of alkanet-root, which is to be left out. Though 
called lip-salve, this composition is seldom apidied 
to the lips; its principal use consisting in curing 
sore nipples, for which it is an excellent remedy. 
To stueeten the breath. 
Take two ounces of terra japonica; half an ounce 
of sugar-candy, both in powder. Grind one drachm 
of the best ambergris with ten grains of pure musk, 
and dissolve a quarter of an ounce of clean gum 
tragacanth in two ounces of orange-flower water. 
Mix all together, so as to form a paste, which roll 
into pieces of the thickness of a straw. Cut these 
into pieces, and lay them in clean paper. This is 
an excellent perfume for those whose breath is 
disagreeable. 

To perfume clothes. 
Take of oven-dried best cloves, cedar and rhu- 
barb wood, each one ounce, beat them to a powder 
and sprinkle them in a box or chest, where they 
will create a most beautiful scent, and preserve tlie 
apparel against moths. 

Perfumed bags for drawers. 
Cut, slice and mi v well together, in the state of 
veiy gross powder, the following ingredients: 2 oz. 
of yellow saunders, 2 oz. of coriander seeds, 2 oz. 
of on-is root, 2 oz. of calamus aromaticus, 2 oz. of 
cloves, 2 oz. of cinnamon bark, 2oz. of dried rose, 
leaves, 2 oz. of lavender flowers, and 1 lb. of oak 
shavings. When properly mixed, stutf the above 
into smalllinen bags, which place in drawers, ward- 
robes, &c., which are musty or liable to become so. 

Excellent perfume foi ■ gloves. 
Take of ambergris one drachm, civet the like 
quantity; add flour-butter a quarter of an ounce; 
and with these well mixed, rub the gloves over 
gently with .Ine cotton wool and press the per- 
fume into them. 

Another. — Take of damask or rose scent, half 
an ounce, the spirit of cloves and mace, each a 
drachm; frankincense, a ;^ of an ounce. Mix tljera 
together, and lay them in papers, and when hard, 
press the gloves; they will take the scent in 24 
hours, and hardly ever lose it. 

Tinctxire of musk. 
This excellent spirit requires 6 drachms of Chi- 
na musk, 20 grains of civet, and 2 drachms of red 
rose buds, ifleduce these ingredients to powder 
with loaf sugar, and pour over them 3 pints of spi- 
rit of wiue. 

A perfume to prevent pestilential airs, ^c. 
Take of benjamin, storax, and galbanum, each 
half an oz. temper them; being bruised into pow- 
der, with the oil of myrrh, and burn them in a 
chafing-dish, or else take rosemary, balm, and bay 
leaves; heat them in wine and sugar, and let the 



PERFUMERY, &e. 



191 



snoisiure be consumed; likewise burn them by the 
hpftt of the ])an, and they will produce a very fine 
jcent. 

Pastils for perfuming sick rooms. 

Powder separately the following ingredients, and 
then mix, on a marble slab, 1 11). of gum benzoin, 
8 oz. of gum storax, 1 lb. of frankincense, and 2 
lbs. of fine charcoal. Add to this composition the 
following liquids: 6 oz. of tincture of benzoin, 9. 
oz. of essence of ambergris, 1 oz. of essence ct 
musk, 3 oz. of almond oil, and 4 oz. of clear syrup. 
Mix the whole into a stiff paste, and form into 
pastils, of a conical shape, which (h-y in the heat 
of the sun. If more liquid should be required for 
fhe paste, add warm water. 

Aromatic pastils. 

Beat and sift fine a pound of the four gums left 
after the making of honey-water, one pound also 
of the ingredients left from the spirit of benjamin, 
one pound of the best sealing-wax, and one pound 
of genuine gum benzoin. 

Dissolve some cleat common gum arabic iti a 
quantity of rose-water, of a pretty thick consisten- 
cy, and add to it sixty drops of spirit of musk. 

Mix the whole toi;'et!ier, so as to make a pretty 
stiff paste, which make up into small cones or balls. 
Dry tliem tboroughlv before they are put away, 
otherwise they will uecorae mouldy. 

These ])astilsare particularly useiul for burning 
in rooms, where the sick or the dead have laiti. They 
are used in very considerable quantities in the two 
Houses of Lords .lad Commons; also in various 
halls, assembly rooms, &c. 

Explosive pastils. 

1 here is another sort of these pastils, called 
sweets and sours, which are made thus: Take some 
of the above aromatic paste, and make into cones 
of 2 inches in length, and of the thickness, at their 
bases, of an inch. Whilst moist, scoop out a cavity 
in the bottom of each, capable of containing a large 
pea, fill it up with gunpowder, covering this over 
with the paste which has been scooped out. 

When tj be dried, lay the bottoms of these pas- 
tils uppermost; for if any moisture attacks the gun- 
powder, its effects will be destroyed. 

The design (it can hardly be called a useful pur- 
pose,) for whicn these pastils are made, is to pro- 
duce diversion. During Christmas, or other holi- 
da}' gambols, it is customary with many to light 
one of these with the avowed intention of perfum- 
ing the apartments, and whilst the company are 
please'' with the odour, an unexpected report ter- 
rifies some, whilst it amuses others. 
Hair powder perfume. 

Take half a pound of pulvil powder, made from 
apple-tree moss, half an ounce of grey ambergris, 
thirty grains of musk, and twenty grains of civet. 
Grind the musk and civet with loaf sugar to a very 
fine powder; melt the ambergris, with 6 drops of 
the oil of behn nuts, over a gentle fire, in a clean 
vessel, not brass or copper, add, as it melts, a few- 
drops of the juice of green lemon, and about 4 
drops each of oil of rhodium and lavender. Wiien 
the ambergris is melted, put the above powder in- 
to it, stir and mix it well. Add, by degrees, the 
powder of apple-moss; and when the whole is com- 
bined, pulverize and sift it through a very fine hair 
sieve; what will not pass through, return into the 
mortar, again pouud it with loaf sugar, until the 
whole is reduced to fine powder. 
Ambergris perfume. 

Melt 2 penny-weights of fine ambergris, in a 
brass mortar, very gently, stir in quickly 8 drops 
of green lemon juice, and the same of behn-nut 
oil. Add, rc^dy powdered with fine loaf sugar, 12 
grains of musk, 12 grains ot civet, and 24 erains 



of the residuum from the making of spirit of am- 
bergris. Add one ounce of s])irit of ambergris. Mix. 
and incorporate them well, and add 16 pounds of 
fine dry hair powder. Pass the whole, twice 
through a fine hair sieve; then lay it open for three 
days, in a dry room, stir it often, that the spirit 
may entirely evaporate; otherwise it may turn sour, 
which however will go off by keeping. Bottle and 
stop it close. 

JMzisk and civet perfumes. 

Take 2 penny-weights of i)ure musk, 12 grains 
of civet, and 1 penny- weight of the residuum of 
spirit of ambergris. Make tliis into a paste, wiih 2 
ounces of spirit of musk, made by infusion. Pow- 
der it with loaf sugar, and mix in 16 pounds ot fine 
hair powder. 

Orris perfume. 

Take best dried and scraped orris roots, free 
from mould. Bruise or grind them: the latter is 
best, as, being very tough, tliey require great la- 
bour to pound. Sift the powder through a fine hair 
sieve, and put the remainder in a baker's oven, to 
dry the moisture. A violent hteat will turn the 
roots yellow. When dry, grind again, and sift; 
and repeat the same until the whole has passe(* 
through the sieve; mix notiiing with it, as it woula 
mould and spoil it. 

Violet perfimie. 

Drop twelve drops of ger.uine oil of rhodium or« 
a lump of loaf-sugar; grind tliis well in a glass mor- 
tar, and mix it thorousridy with three pounds of 
orris powder. This will, in its perfume, have a 
resemblance to a well-flavoured violet. If you add 
more rhodium oil, a rose perfume, instead of a 
Violet one, will Le produced; the orris ])owder is » 
most agreeable perfume, and oidy requiring to b« 
raised by the addition of the above quantity of tht 
oil. Kec[) this perfume in the same manner as tht 
others. What is at the druggists' shops is gene- 
rally adulterated. 

Rose perfume. 

Take two pecks of fresh diy damask rose leaves; 
strip them from their leaves and stalks; have ready 
sixteen pounds of fine hair jiowder. Strew a layer 
of rose leaves, on sheets of paper, at the bottom of 
a box, cover them over with a layer of hair pow- 
der; then strew alternately a layer of roses and 
powder, imtil the whole of each has been used. 
When they have lain 24 hours, sift the powder out, 
and expose it to the air 24 hours more. Stir it of- 
ten. Add tresh rose leaves, twice, as before, and 
proceed in the same way; after this dry the pow- 
der well by a gentle heat, and pass it through a 
fine sieve. Lastly, pour ten drops of oil of rho- 
dium, or three drops of otto of roses, on loaf su- 
gar, which triturate in a glass mortar, and stir well 
into the powder, which put into a box, or glass for 
use. This hair powder perfume will be excellent, 
and will keep well. 

Bcrgamot perfume. 

Take sixteen pounds of hair powder, aud forty 
drops of Roman oil of bergamot, and proceed iih 
all respects as before, but do not leave the com- 
pound exposed to the air; for in this case the ber- 
gamot is so volatile, that it will quickly fly otf. 
Ambergris hair po-wder. 

Take twelve pounds of fine starch powder, add 
three pounds of the ambergris perfume: mix them 
well together, and run it twice through a fine hair 
sieve. Put it into a well closed box, or glass, for 
use This is the first and best sort of ambergris 
powder: but for a second, or inferior sort, put only 
a pound and a half of the perfume, to the above 
quantity of starch powder. 

jVIusk and civet hair powder. 

Mix twelve pounds of starch powder, and three 



'92 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



p<oiin(]s of musk peifume, as before. A second 
sort of this liair |i )w<ler may be made by using 
half the quantity of the peifim:e. 
Violet hair powder. 

Mix twelve pounds of liair powder with three 
pounds of the violet perfume, and lay it by for use. 
Hose hair poxvder. 

Mix well twelve pounds of starch powder, with 
three pounds of the rose perfu.ne. Sift; put it up 
in a cedar box, or glass bottle. 

Another. — A second sort cf this powder may be 
made by using half the quantity of tlie perfume to 
twelve pounds of powder, and adding two drops 
of otto of roses, previously dropped on sugar, and 
■well triturated in a glass mortar. 

To destroy superfluous hair. 

Take of fresh lime-stone, 1 oz. pure potass, 1 
drachm, sulphuret of potass, 1 drachm. Reduce 
them to a fine powder in a wedgewood mortar. If 
the hair be first washed, or soaked in warm water, 
^130° Fahr.) for ten minutes, tliis article formed 
into a thin paste, with warm water, and applied 
whilst warm, will so eft'eo.tually destroy the hair in 
five or six minutes, that it may be removed by 
washing the skin with flannel. It is a powerful 
cauElic, and should therefore be removed as soon 
as it b' gins to inHame the skin, by washing it off 
with vinegar. It softens the skin, and greatly im- 
proves its appearance. 

'/jO make Spanish ladies'' rouge. 

Take good new scarlet wool cuttings and spirit 
of wine, or lemon-juice, boil them in a well glaz- 
ed eartlien pot well stopped, till the liquid has 
charged itself with all the colour of the scarlet, strain 
the dye tlirough a cloth, and all the colour there- 
from; boil it afterwards in a little arabic water, till 
the colour becomes very deep. The proportion of 
mt'terialsis, to half a pound of scailel cuttings, a 
quarter of a pint of spirit of wine, and a sufRcient 
quantity of water to assist the soaking. Then, in tlie 
colour extracted, put a piece of gum arabic, of the 
size of a filbert: next steep some cotton in the co- 
lour, and wet some sheets of paper with the dye, 
which repeat several times, as often as they are 
dry, and you will find them sufficiently charged 
with rouge for use. 

Spanish vermilion for the toilette. 

Pour into the alkaline liquor which holds in so- 
lution the colouring part of bastard safiroii, such a 
quantity of lemon juice as may be necessary to sa- 
turate the w'lole alkaline salts. At the time of the 
precipitation, the laiter appears under the form of 
a fecula full of threads, wliich soon falls to the 
bottom of the vessel. Mix this part with wiiite 
talc, reduced to fine powder, and moistened with 
a little lemon-juice and water. Then form the 
whole into a paste; and having put it in small pots, 
expose it to dry. This colour is reserved for the 
use of the toilette; but it has not the dui-abilily of 
that prepared from cochineal. 

Ficonojniral rouge. 

Fine carmine, properly pulverized and prepared 
for the purpose, is the best tiiat can be employed 
with safely and effect; it gives the most natural tone 
to the coiiiplexion, and imparts a brilliancy to the 
eyes, without detracting from the softness of the 
skin. To use it economically, take some of the 
finest pomatum, wit!i(Ut scent, in ^vhich there is a 
proportion of vhite wax, about th« size of a pea, 
just flatten it apon a piece of white paper, then 
take on a pointed penknife, carmine equal to a 
pin's head, mix it gently with the pomatum, with 
your finger, and when you have produced the de- 
sired tint, rub it in a little compicssed cotton, pass 
it over tlie cheeks till colour is clearly ditt'(.„L'd, 
void of grease. Ladies will find, upon trial, that 
this economical rouge will neither injure the health 



nor (he skin; and it imitates perfectly the natural 
colour of the complexion. 

Jinother. — 1 ake o\ French chalk, (powdered) 
4 ounces; oil of almonds, 2 drachms; carmiae, 1 do. 
Ihirkish bloom. 

Infuse 1^ ounces of gum I^enzoin, 2 ounces ot 
red Saunders in powder, and iidiachms of dragon's 
blood, in 12 ounces of reo'.ified spirit of v/ine, and 
4 ounces of river or rain water. Wh n t'le ingre- 
dients have been mixed, stop ho bottle tlose, and 
shake frequently during seven days; then lilter 
tlirough blotting paper. 

A -wash for swi-bwmt faces and han^^s. 

To each pound of ox-gall, add roche alum, 1 
drachm, rock salt, ^ ounce, sugar c^ndy, 1 ouncev, 
borax, 2 drachms, camphor, i drachm. Mix and 
shake weli for fifteen miiutes, then often daily, for 
fifteen days, or till the gall is transparent; filter 
through cap paper; used when exposed to the sun; 
always washing off before sleep. 
JVlacouba smijf. 

The varied flavour of snuffs of diftercnt kinds 
arises less fr( n the state of the original leaf, than 
the factitious a('ditions of manafL.cturers. The 
snuff of Martin;eo, celebrai;?d under the term 
" Macouba," is made f-om the best leaves, which 
being moistened with juice from their excellent su- 
gai'-canes, undergoes rermenlullon, and having 
thrown oft" the offensive fetor in sc jm and residuum"^ 
is evaporated and ground in the usual manner. 
Cephalic snuff. 

Its basis is powdered asarum, (vulgo \sarabae- 
ca), reduced by admixture with a small po-tion of 
powdered dock-leaf, or anj' other innoxious vege- 
table. The finely levigated snutt', known as 
" Scotch," may be added, agreeable to the taste of 
the consumer; and finally ii solution of spirit ot 
wine and camphor, in llie proportion jf one draclim 
of the latter in fifteen of s[)irit, is to be drojiped 
upon the camphor from f ve to ten drops to an 
ounce. Bottle your sniiff immediately. 

Another may be made of a very iiieasur': ilavour 
with the powder prodr^ed from sage, rosemary, 
lilies of the valley, and t0[)S of sweet niaijoram, of 
each 1 ounce, with a drachm of Asarabacca root, 
lavender-tiowers, and nutmeg; it should be very 
line, and it will relieve the head vastly. 
To iimiate Spanish sn-ff. 

Take good unsifted Havtuiah snuff, and grind it 
down to a fine powder. If the tuba co be too 
strong, ;riix it with the fine powder o) Spanish nut- 
shells, which is by far the best mixture wii'ch can 
be used. Over this sprinkle some weak treacle 
water, tnd when, after mixing with the hands, it 
has lain in a heap for some days, to sweat and in 
corporate, pack it up; but taLe care that it be not 
too moist. 

This snuff, in the course of tv/elve months, will 
be of one uniform and agreeable flavour; and will 
keep good and mending, for many years. When 
old, this sort will hardly be inferior t,' any of llie 
plain snulfs made in 3|)ain. 

London imitation of Spanish and other foreign 
snuffs. 

The fine powder, which is the best part uf the 
snuff, as it comes fronj abroad, is sifted from the 
bale-snuff; and the coarse and sUlky pait left, is 
ground down, previously mixed wiiii stu iig cheap 
tobacco powder, or dust, along with. sa-. ine, brick- 
dust, yellow sand, the sweepings of louaL;:L), old 
rotten wood, and with many other filthy vegetable 
substances, both dry and green, to pass as the real 
flavour of tobacco. All cr n^^st if these ingredi- 
ents being mixed into cue body. This is nothing 
more than coloui:ng the filthy compound with red 
ochre, or umber, or other noxious red or broivu 
colour, mixed with water and molasses. 



INKS, &c. 



193 



The whole, when properly incorporated, is now 
passwl through a hair sieve, to mix it more inti- 
mateJy; and is then left for some time to sweat, or 
become equally moist. This nioistness is intended 
to imitate the oiliness which is peculiar to the real 
genuine rancia from Havannah. 

This snuff is packed in barrels, tin canisters, 
«nd stone jars, so that it may come out in lumps, 
like the Spanish snuffs. This is done to deceive 
the purchaser, on whom thij bad compound is im- 
posed for real Spanish snuff. Such is the compo- 
sition of a very great part cf what is made and 
sold for common Spanish snuff. 

To make truiuparent soap. 

Suet is the basis of all the soaps ot the toilette, 
known by the name of Windsor soap, because 
oiive-oil forms a paste too difficult to melt agai'n, 
aiid contains an cdour too strong to be mixed with 
essences. The suet soap dissolved hot in alcoliol 
retakes its solid state by coolinr. To this fact is 
due the discovery of transparent soap, which, if 
well prepared, has the appearance of fine white 
candied sugar; it m.iy also be coloured, and the 
vegetable hues, for this purpose, are preferable to 
mineral; any person may make this soap, by put- 
ting in a thin glass phial the hHlf of a cake of 
Windsor soap-shavi-ngs; fill it with one half of al- 
cohol, and put it near the fire till the soap is dis- 
solved; this mixture placed in a mould to cool, 
produces the transparent soap. 
Windsor soap. 

Melthard cnrd soap, and scent it with oil of karni, 
and essence of bergamot, bought at the druggists'; 
or the essence of bergamot may be omitted. 
Almond stap. 

Upon 1 lb. of qiticklime pour 3 quarts of boiling 
distilled water; add 1 lb. of salt of tartar dissolved 
in I quart of water; cover the vessel, and when 
cold, filter throHgh a cotton cloth: a pint should 
weigh exactly 16 oz. troy; if more, add distilled 
water, and if less, evaporate. Then add one-third 
of oil of almonds, simmer them together for some 
hours, or until the oil formsa jelly; when cool, which 
may be tried on a small quantitj', add common salt, 
and then continue boiling till the soap is solid; when 
cold skim off the water, and then pour into moulds. 

Another method. — Take 2 lbs. of soap ley, made 
of barilla or kelp, so strong that a bottle holding 
half a pint of water will hold 11 ounces of the ley, 
and 4 lbs. of oil of almonds; rub them together in 
a mortar, and put the mixture into tin moulds, 
where let it be for some weeks, till the combina- 
tion IS perfect. 

JMarbled soap balls. 

Take 10 lbs. of white oil-soap and 10 lbs. of Jop- 



pa soap. Cut them into small square pieces, '^vhich 
set to dry for three days: the oil-soap, particularly, 
must be thus dried. 

Scrape, very finely, five pounds of oil soap, 
which diy, for one day, in the open air; mix it 
well in the shaving-box, with five pounds of pow- 
der, add an ounce and a half of the best vermilion. 

In mixing, place pieces of soap and coloured 
powder, in layers in the box, maknvg, in all, four 
alternate layers of CHch. When a layer of each 
has been placed in the box, sprinkle a pint of rose 
water over the cut soap; for if it oe much combin- 
ed with the powder, it will become h>mpy and 
hard, and consequently spoil the wash-', alls. The 
same (juantity of water is to be used for moistening 
each of the other soap layers. Next mix a pint 
of thin starch, which has been well boiled in halt 
a pint of rain water, with half a pint of rose water 
and distribute it, ecpially well mixed, among the 
mass, by turning it over repeatedly, and then press 
it down close with the hands. If a piece be now 
cut out from the mass, the operator will perceive 
.vhether the marbling is sufficiently good; and if so, 
he may proceed immediately to form his wash- 
balls. 

To imitate JVaples soap. 

Take of fresh ley, strong enough to bear an egg, 
eight pounds; and put to it of deer's, goat's, or 
lamb's suet, (which has previously been well cleans- 
ed from all skins, &c. by rose water) two pounds, 
and one pound of olive oil, or rather bchn-nut oil. 
Let all these simmer over the fire in a well glazed 
pot, until it be pretty nearly of the consistence of 
•jrown or Naples soap; then turn it out into a large 
fiat pan, which set on the leads or roof of the house, 
exposed to the heat of the sun for fifty days. "I'he 
pan must be covered over with a bell glass, such 
as the gardeners use, and the mixture must be stir- 
red well once a day, during the whole of this time. 

In about six weeks or two months, the operator 
will have a most excellent ground work for Naples 
soap, which only requires perfuming in the fol- 
lowing manner, to reader it even preferable to the 
foreign sorts. 

Take of oil of rhodium, one ounce, of spirit of 
ambergris, two ounces and a half, spirit of musk, 
half an ounce; mix these well together, and then 
put the compound into the pan ot soap. Stir the 
whole well, and incorporate the perfumes with the 
soap, on a marble stone by means of a muller. Put 
up into small jars, or preserve in a mass in a large 
jar, according to sale or convenience. If kept for 
12 months, this soap will be found by comparison, 
to be far preferable to the best soap that ever came 
from Naples. 



Z^KS, fi&c. 



•SjJne black ink, for common purposes and for the 
copying press. 
Put Aleppo galls, well bruised, 4J oz. and log- 
vood chijtped, 1 oz. with 3 pints soft water, into 
t stoneware mug: slov/ly boil, until one quai-t re- 
Tiaiiis: add, weP powdered, the pure green crys- 
lals ol sulphate ot iron, 2^ oz. blue vitriol or v(;r- 
digi'is, (1 tliink the latter better,) ^ oz. gutn arable, 
8 02. and brown sugar, 2 oz. Shake it occasion- 
ally a week after making; then after standing a 
day, decant and cork. To prevent moulding add a 
-little brandr or alcohol. 



The common copperas will not answer so *ph. 
£3 it has already aLaorbed oxygen. 

To make cominon black ink. 

Pour a gallon of boiling soft water on a pound 
of powdered galls, previously put into a proper 
vessel. Stop the mouth of the vessel, and set it 
in the sun in summer, or in winter where it may 
be warmed by any hre, and let it stand two or three 
days. Then add half a pound of green vitriol pow- 
dered, and having stirred the mlxtere well toge- 
ther with a wooden spatula, let it stand again Tor 
two or three days, repeating tne stirring, when 



194 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



aJd further to it 5 ounces of gum arabic dissolved 
m a quart of boiling water, and lastly, 2 ounces of 
slum, after which let the ink be strained through a 
coarse linen cloth for use. 

Another. — A good and durable black ink maybe 
made by the following (hreclions: To 2 pints of 
water add 3 ounces of the dark coloured rough- 
skinned Aleppo galls in gross powder, and of rasp- 
ed logwood, grten vitriol, and gum arabic, each, 
1 oz. 

This mixture is to be put into a convenient ves- 
sel, and well shaken four or five times a day, for 
ten or twelve days, at the end of which time it 
will be fit f"r use, though it wil! improve by i-e- 
maining longer on the ingredients. Vinegar in- 
stead of water makes a deeper coloured ink; but 
its action on pens soon spoils them. 
Sinning black ink. 

Beat up well together in an iron mortar the fol- 
lowing ingredients in a dry state; viz. 8 oz. of best 
blue gall-nuts, 4 oz. of copperas, or sulphate of 
iron, 2 oz. of clear gura arabic, and 3 pints of clear 
rain water. 

When properly powdered, put to the above: let 
the whole be shaken in a stone bottle three or four 
times a day, for seven days, and at the end of that 
time, pour the liquor off" gently into another stone 
bottle, which place in an airy situation to prevent 
it from becoming foul or raothery. When used put 
the liquor into the ink-stand as required. 
Process for making the best ink. 

Take 6 quarts (beer measure) of clear water, 
soft or hard, and boil in it for about an hour, 4 oz. 
of the best Campeachy logwood, chipped very thin 
across the grain, adding, from time to time, boiling 
water to supplv in part the loss by evaporation; 
strain the liquor while hot, and suffer it to cool. If 
the liquor is then short of 5 quarts, malce it equal 
to this quantity, hy the addition of cold water. 
After which, let 1 lb. of bruised blue galls, or 20 
oz. of the best common galls, be added. Let a 
paste be prepared by triturating 4 oz. of sulphate 
of iron (green vitriol) calcined to wliiteness, and 
let half an ounce of acetite of copper (verdigris) 
be well incorporated together with the above de- 
coction, into a mass, throwing in also, 3 oz. of 
coarse hrown sugar, and 6 oz. of gura Senegal, or 
Arabic. Put the materials into a stone bottle of 
such a size as to half fill it; let the mouth be left 
open, and shake the bottle well, twice or thrioe a 
day. In about a fortnight it may be filled, and kept 
in Will stopped bottles lor use. It requires to be 
protected from the i-'ost, which would considerably 
injure it. 
Indelible black ink -without galls or green vitriol. 

Infuse a pound of pomegranate peels, broken to 
a gross powder, for 24 hours in a gallon and a half 
of water, and afterwards boil the mixture till l-3d 
of the fluid be wasted. Then add to it 1 lb. of 
Roman vitriol, .and 4 oz. of gum arabic powdered, 
and continue the boiling till the vitriol and gum 
be dissolved, after which the ink must be strained 
through a coarse linen cloth, when it will be fit 
for use. 

This ink is somewhat more expensive, and yet 
not so good in hue as that made by the general 
method; but the colour which 't has is not liab'.e 
to vanish or fade in any length of lime. 
Indestructible ink for resisting the action of corro- 
sive substances. 

On many occasions, it is of importance to em- 
ploy an ink indestructible by any process, .hat will 
not equally destroy the material on which it is ap- 
plied. For black ink, 25 grains of copal, in pow- 
der, are to be dissolved in 200 jjrains of oil of la- 
vender, by the assistance of a gentle heat; and aie 
dien to be mixed with 2J grains of lamp black, and 



^ a grain of indigo: for red ink use i20 grains of 
oil of lavender, 17 grains of copal, and 60 grains 
of vermiiion. A little oil of lavender, or of tur- 
pentine, may be added, if the ink be found too 
thick. A mixture of genuine asphaltum dissolve^ 
in oil of turpentine, amber varnish, and lamp-black, 
would be still superior. 

This ink is particularly useful for labelling 
phiais, 8tc. containing chemical or coTosive sub- 
stances. 

liest ink poiuder. 

Infuse a pound of galls powdered, and 3 ounces 
of pomegranate peels, in a gallon of soft water for 
a week, in a gentle heat, and then strain of^' the 
fluid through a coarse linen cloth. Then add to it 
8 oz. of vitriol dissolved in a quart of water, and 
let them remain for a day or two, preparing in the 
meantime a decoction of logwooa, by boiling a 
pound of the chips in a gallon of water, till l-3d 
be wasted, and then straining the remaining fluid 
while it is hot. Mix the decoction and the solu- 
tion of galls imd vitriol together, and add 5 oz. of 
gum arabic, and then evaporate the mixture over 
a common fire to about 2 quarts, when the remain- 
der must be put into a vessel proper for that pur- 
pose, and reduced to dryness, by hanging the ves- 
sel in boiling water. The mass left, at\er the fluid 
has wholly exhaled, must be well powdered; and 
when wanted for use, may be converted into ink 
bj' the addition of water. 

Another. — Compositions were also formerly 
made for portable, or extemporaneous inks, with- 
out galls or vitHol, of one of which the following 
is a i-ecipe: — Take ^ a pound of honey, and the 
yolk of an egg, and mix them well together. Add 

2 drachms of gum arabic finely levigated, and 
thicken the whole with lamp-black to the consist- 
ence of a stiff" paste, which, being put to a proper 
quantity of water, may be used as ink. 

Ink poxvder for immediate use. 
Reduce into subtle powder 10 oz. of gall-nuts, 

3 oz. of Roman vitriol, (green copperas,) with 2 
oz. each of roche alum and gura arabic. Then put 
a little of this mixture into a glass of white wine, 
and it will be fit for instant use. 

Another. — Take equal parts of black rosin, burnt 
peach or apricot stones, vitriol and gall-nuts, and 
2 of gum arabic, put the whole in powder or cake 
as required. 

Exchequer ink. 

To 40 pounds of galls, add 10 pounds of gum, 9 
pounds of copperas, an(l 45 gallons of soft water. 
This ink will endure for centuries. 
Red Ink. 

Take of the raspings of Brazil wood a quarter ot 
a pound, and infuse them two or three days in vi- 
negar, which should be coloui-less where it can be 
so procured. Boil the infusion an hour over a gen- 
tle fire, and afterwards filler it, while hot, through 
paper laid in an earthenware cullender. Put it 
again over the fii l-, and dissolve in it, first § an 
ounce of gum arabic, and afterwards of alum and 
white sugar, each 1-2 an ounce. Care should be 
taken that the Brazil wood be not adulterated with 
the Brasiletto or Campeachy wood. 

Other preparations. — Red ink may likewise be 
prepared, by the above process, of white wine in- 
stead of vinegar; butitshouldbe sour, or disposed to 
be so, otherwise, a third or fourth of vinegar should 
be added, in order to its taking the stronger tinc- 
ture from the wood. Small beer has been some- 
times used for the same purpose, but the ink will 
not be so bright, and when it is used, vinegar 
should be added, the quantity of gum arabic i\\- 
minished, and the sugar wholly omitted. 
Red ink from vermilion. 

Take the glair of four eggs, a tea-spppqftil of 



INKS, &c. 



1. 



white sugar, or sugar candy, beaten to a powder, 
and as much spirit of wine; beat them to.s;ether, 
till they are of the consistence of oil: then add such 
a proportion of vermilion as will produce a red 
colour sufficiently strong; and keep the mixture in 
a small phial or well-stopped ink-bottle for use. 
The composition should be well shaken together 
before it is used. 

Instead of the glair of eggs, gum water is fre- 
quently used; but thin size, made of isinglass, with 
a little honey, .s much better for the purpose. 
Permanent red ink. 

Take of oil of lavender, 120 grains, of copal in 
powder, 17 grains, red sulphuret of mercury, 60 
grains. The oil of lavender being dissipated with a 
gentle heat, a colour will be left on the paper sur- 
rounded with the copal; a subsiance insoluble in 
water, spirits, acids, or alkaline solutions. 

This composition possesses a permanent colour, 
and a MS. written with it, may he exposed to the 
process comnaonlj' used for.,restoring the colour of 
printed books, without injury to the writing. In 
this manner interpolations with common ink may 
be removed. 

Greev. -writing ink. 

Take an ounce of verdigris, and having powder- 
ed it, put to it a quart of vinegar, &c. after it has 
stood two or three d.ays strain oft" the liquid; or, 
instead of this, use th=> crystals of verdigris dis- 
solved in water; then dissolve, in a pint of either 
of these solutions, five drachms of gum arable, and 
two drachms of white sugar. 

Yellov) -writing ink. 

Boil two ounces of the French berries in a quart 
of water, with half an ounce of alum, till one-third 
of the fluid be evaporated. Then dissolve in it 
two draclims of gum arable, and one drachm of 
sugar, and afterwards a drachm of alum powdered. 
Blue ink. 

This may be made by diffusing Prussian blue, 
or indigo, thr'-ugh strong gum-water. The com- 
mon water-colour cakes, dift'used in water, will 
make sufficiently good coloured inks for most pur- 
poses. 

Copper plate pnnters' ink. 

Ink for the rolling-press is made of linseed oil, 
burnt in the same manner as that for common 
printing ink; and is then mixed with Frankfort- 
black, finely ground. There are no certain pro- 
portions which can be determined in this kind of 
ink; every workman adding oil or black to his ink, 
as he thinks proper, in order to make it suit his 
purpose. Some, however, mix a portion of com- 
mou boiled cil which has never been burnt: but 
this must necessarily be a bad practice, as such oil 
IB apt to go through the paper; a fault very com- 
mon in prints, especially if the paper is not very- 
thick. No soap is added; because the ink is not 
cleared off from the copper-plates, with alkaline 
ley, as in common printing, but with a brush dip- 
ped in oil. 

Another method. — Instead of Frankfort, or other 
kinds of black commonly used, the following com- 
position may be substituted, and will form a much 
deeper and more beautiful black, than can be ob- 
tained by any other method. Take of the deepest 
Prussian blue five parts, and of the deepest co- 
loured lake and brown pink, each one part. 
Grind them well with oil of tui-pentine, and aftei-- 
wards with the strong and weak oils in the man- 
ner and proportion above directed. The colours 
need not be bright for this purpose, but they should 
be the deepest of the kind, and perfectly transpa- 
rent in oil, as the whole effect depends on that 
quality. 

Prvnterm^ ink. 

Ten or twei" ■ 'allons of nut-oil are set over the 



file, in a large iron pot, and brought to boil. It 
is then stirred with an iron ladle; and whilst boiling 
the inflammable vapour arising from it either takes 
fire of itself, or is kimiled, and is suftered to burn 
in this way for about half an liour, the pot being 
partially covered, so as to regulate the body of the 
flame, and consequently, the heat communicated 
to the oil. It is frequently stirred during this time, 
that the whole may be heated equally; otherwise, 
a pa.t would be charred, and the rest left imper- 
fect. The flame is then extinguished by entirely 
covering the pot. The oil, by this process, has 
much of its unctuous quality destroyed, and when 
cold is of the consistence of soft turpentine: it is 
then called varnish. After this, it is made into 
ink, by mixture with the requisite quantity of lamp- 
black; of which about 2^ ounces are sufficient for 
16 ounces of the prepared oil. The oil loses, by 
the boiling, about an eighth of its weight, and emits 
ve:y offensive fumes. Several other additions ai-e 
made to the oil during the boiling, such as crusts 
of bread, onions, and sometimes turpentine. These 
are kept secret by the prepai'e-rs. The intention 
r f them is more effectually to destroy part of the 
unctuous quality of oil, to give it more body, to en- 
able it to adhere better to the wetted paper, and to 
spread on the types neatly and uuiforn^h^ 

Besides these additions, others are made by the 
printers, of which the most important is a little 
fine indigo in powder, to improve the beauty of the 
colour. 

Another meth.od. — t lb. of lamp-black, ground 
veiy fine, or run through a lawn sieve, 2 ounces 
of Prussian blue, ground very fine; 4 ounces of lin- 
seed oil, well boiled and skimmed, 4 ounces of 
spirit of turpentine, very clear, 4 ounces of soft 
varnish, or neat's foot oil. To be well boiled and 
skimmed, and, while boiling, the top burned oft'by 
I several times applying lighted paper. Let these 
j be well mixed, then put the whole in a jug, place 
I that in a pan, and boil them very carefully one 
I hour. 

A fine black printing ink. 

Less turpentine and oil, without Prussian blue, 
for common ink. 

JBest printing ink. 

In a secured iron pot, (fire outside when possi- 
ble), boil 12 gallons of nut oil; stir with iron ladle, 
long handle; while boiling, put an iron cover part- 
ly over, set the vapour on fire by lighted paper of- 
ten applied, keep well stirring, and on the fire, one 
hour at least ( or till the oily particles are burnt), then 
add 1 pound of onions cut in pieces, and a few 
crusts of bread, to get out the residue of oil ; also 
varnish, 16 oz. fine lamp-black, 3 ounces, ground 
indigOj ^ ounce. Boil well one hour. 
Good common pnnting ink. 

Take 16 ounces of varnish, 4 ounces of linseed 
oil, well boiled, 4 ounces of clear oil of turpen- 
tine, 16 ounces of fine lamp-black, 2 ounces of 
Prussian blue, fine, 1 ounce of indigo, fine. Boi^ 
one hour. 

Printers^ red ink. 

Soft varnish and vermilion with white of eggs 
not very thick. Common varnish, red-lead, antf 
orange. 

Blue. — Prussian blue, and a little ivory-black, 
with varnish and eggs very thick. Common indigc 
and varnish; then wash off with boiling lees. 
Perpetual iiikfor inscriptions on tomb stones, inar^ 
bles, &c. 

This ink is forrjed by mixing about three parts 
of pitch with one part of lamp-black, and making 
them incorporate by melting the pitch. With thia 
composition, used in a melted state, the letters are 
filled, and will, without extraordinary violence, en 
dui-e as long as the stone itself. 



iOG 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOR. 



Indian ink. 

Let ivovy or lamp-black be tuixed with a small 
portion of Prussian blue ov indigo, for a blue black, 
and let the same blacks be united with raw or 
burnt umber, bistre, Vandyke or any other brown, 
instead of the b'ue, for a brown black. These 
should be mixe.l together in a weak gum-water, 
(perhaps mati-work would answer the purpose bet- 
ter) first levigating tliem very fine, in common wa- 
ter, on- a marble slab. When dried to the consis- 
tence of a paste, let the glutinous matter be well 
mixed with them. That will be found sufficiently 
strong, which binds the ccmpcsitiun, so as to pre- 
vent rubbing off by the touch. Indian ink draw- 
ings should bd ht.ndled as slightly as possible. 
Too much gum in the composition will create an 
offensive gloss. 

Ancther method. — Take of isinglass, 6 oz., and 
12 oz. of soft water; make into size; add 1 oz. of re- 
fined liquorice, ground up with 1 oz. of genuine 
ivory-black, and stir the vvhole well. Evaporate 
ihe water in balneum marise; and form the sticks 
or cakes. 

A substitute for- Indian ink. 

Boil parchment slips or cuttings of glove leather, 
in water til! it forms a size, which, when cool, be- 
comes of the consistence of jelly, then, having 
blackened an earthen plate, by holding it over the 
flame of a candle, mix up with a camel hair pencil, 
the tine lamp-black thus obtained, with some of the 
above size, while the plate is still warm. This 
black requires no grinding, and produces an ink of 
the same colour, which works as freely with the 
pencil, and is as perfectly transparent aj the best 
Indian ink. 

Jr'ermanent ink for marking linen. 

Take a drachm of nitrate of silver (lunar caus- 
tic), dissolve it in a glass mortar in double its 
weight of pure water; add to this solution 10 di'ops 
of nitric acid: this is the ink. In another glass 
vessel dissolve a drachm of salt of tartar in 1^ oz. 
nf water; this is usually named the liquid pounce, 
vvith whicli the linen is wet previously to the ap- 
plication of the ink. 

Another method. Take of lunar caustic, two 
drachms, distilled water, 6 oz. Dissolve, and add 
gum water, 2 dr. Dissolve also prepared natron, 
\ oz. in 4 oz. ot water, and add gum water, ^ 
oz. 

Wet the linen where you intend to write with 
this last solution; dry it, and then write upon it 
with the first liquor, using a clean pen. If potash 
is used instead of natron, the ink will spread. 
Sympathetic inks. 

Sympathetic inks are such as do not appear after 
they are written with, but which may be made to 
appear at pleasure, by certain means to be used for 
that ;>urpose. A variety of substances have been 
used as sympathetic inks, among which are the 
following: 

JYitro-muriaies of gold and tin. 

Write with a solution of gold in aqua regia, and 
let tlie paper dry gently in the shade. Nothing 
'vill appear, but draw a sponge over it, wetted 
with a solution of tin in aqua I'egia, and the writing 
will immediately appear of a purpie colour. 
Gallate of iron. 

Write with an infusion of galls, and when the 
writi'ig is required to appear, dip it into a solution 
of sulphate of iron: the letters will appear black. 
JVitro-m unate of cobalt. 

Pulverise 1 ounce ot cobalt, aiid pour over it 4 
ounces of nitric acid in a retort. Digest in a sane' 
bath for 6 hours. An ounce of muriate of soda, 
diluted in 4 ounces of water, must new be added; 
filter and preserve tlie compound. Wl^en to be 
used, It must be diluted with three times its bulk 



of distilled water, to prevent corrosion of the 
paper. 

Tlse nitric acid, alone, will answer the puri^ose 
without the muriate of soda. The salt here ob- 
tained is seldom a pure salt of cobalt, as iron is so 
often combined with it; the solution of cobalt and 
iron is green when exposed to heat: but when a 
pure blue is wished for, the oxide of cobalt must 
be precipitated by pure potass, which re-dissolves 
the oxide of cobalt, and answers as a sympathetic 
ink. This is of a red colour before it is written 
with, and blue after. 

Sympathetic ink of cobalt. 
Digest zaffre in aqua regia, and dilute the solu- 
tion with four times its weiglit of pure water. Cha- 
racters written with it, do not appear till the paper 
is warmed, when traces of the pen are visible, un- 
der a fine sea-green colour. This colour disap- 
pears as the paper cools, and is renewed on warm- 
ing again: and tlins alternately vanishes and re- 
appears, for an interminate number of times. As 
the solution of regulus of cobalt, or zaffre in spirit 
of nitre, acquires a reddish colour, by the appli- 
cation of heat, so a variety of colours may he giv- 
c.n. Thus landscapes may be sketched with com- 
mon ink, to give a prospect of winter; while tho 
solution of cobalt in aqua regia, on the application 
of heat, gives the verdure of .Tpi'ing; and the ni- 
trous solution may represen*: fruit, flowers, &c. 

Another sympathetic ink. — Write on paper with 
a solution of nitrate of bismuth, and smear the 
writing over, by means of a feather, with some in- 
fusion of galls' The letters wiiich were before 
invisible, will now appear of a brown colour. If 
the previous use of nitrate of bismuth be concealed 
from the spectators, great surprise will be excited 
by the appearance of writing, merely by the dash 
of a feathei'. The same phenomenon will take 
place, when infusion of galls is written with, and 
th;^ salt of bismuth applied afterwards. 

Another. — Write on a sheet of paper, any sen- 
tence with a transparent infusion of gall-nuts, and 
dip the paper in a transparent solution of tlie sul- 
phate of iron. The writing, which wa: before in- 
visible, will now, on a slight exposure to the air, 
turn quite black. A neater way of performing this 
experiment will be by smearing the written parts 
over with a feather dipped in the solution of the 
metallic salt; it may also be reversed, by writing 
with the salt, and smearing with the infusion. 

Another. — If a letter be written with a solution 
of sulphate of iron, the inscription will be invisi- 
ble; but if it afterwards be rubbi d over by a feather, 
dipped in a soluiion of prussiate of potass, it will 
appear of a beautiful blue colour. 

Another. — Write a letter with a solution of ni- 
trate of bismuth. — The letters will be "invisiole. 
If a feather be now dipped in a solution of prus- 
siate of potass, and rubbed over the paper, the 
wi-iting will appear of a beautiful yellow colour, 
occasioned by a formation of prussiate of bismuth. 
To prevent ink from freezing in -winter. 
Instead of water use brandy, with the same in- 
gredients which enter into the composition of any 
ink, and it will never freeze. 

To prevent moidd in inks. 
In order to secui-e the above and other inks from 
growing mouldy, a quarter of a pint or more of 
spirit of wine may be added; but to prevent its 
containing any acid, which may injure the ink, a 
little tartar or pearl-ashes should be added, previ- 
ously, and the spirit poured off from it, which will 
lender it innocent with regard to the colour yf the 
ink. 

Another method.~The most simple, yeteff -^tiud 
method, is to infuse a small piece of salt about the 
size of a hazel-nut to each quart. 



INKS, &c. 



197 



To take out spots of ink. 

As soon as the accident liappei.s, wet the place 
with juice of soirel or lemon, or with vinegar, and 
thebost hard white soap. 

To make neru loriiin^ look old. 

Take a drachra of saffron, i.nd infuse it into half 
a pint of ink, and warra it over a gentle fire, and it 
will cause whatever is written with it to turn yel- 
low, and appear as if of many years standing. 
To write 071 greasy paper or parchme^it. 

Put to a bullock's gall a handful of salt, and a 
quarter of a pint of vinegar, stir it until it is mixed 
well; when the paper or parchment is g.easy, put 
a drop of the gall into the ink, and the difficulty 
will be instantly obviated. 

To restore decayed -vriHngs. 

Cover the letters with phlogisticated or prussic 
alkali, with the addition of a diluted mineral acid; 
upon the application of which, the letters change 
very speedily to a deep blue colour, of great beauty 
and intensity. To prevent the spreading of the 
colour, which, by blotting the parchment, detracts 
greatly from the legibility, the alkali should be put 
on first, and the diluted acid added upon it. The 
method found to answer best has been, to spi-ead 
the alkali thin with a feather or a bit of stick cut 
to a blunt point. Though the alkali should occa- 
sion no sensible change of colour, yet the moment 
the acid comes upon it, eveiy ti'ace of a letter turns 
at once to a fine blue, whicii soon acquires its full 
intensity, and is bej'ond comparison stronger than 
the colour of the original trace, if, then, ilie cor- 
ner of a bit of blotting paper be carefully and dex- 
terously applied near the letters, so as to imbibe 
the superfluous liquor, the staining of the parch- 
ment may be in a great measure avoided; for it is 
tliis superfluous liquor which, absorbing part of the 
colouring matter from the lettei-s, becomes a dye 
to whatever it touches. Care must be taken not 
to bring the blotting paper in contact witii the let- 
ters, because the colouring matter is soft whilst 
wet, and may easily be rubbed otf. The acid chiefly 
employed is the marine; but both the vitriolic and 
nitrous succeed very well. They should be so far 
diluted as not to be in danger of corroding the 
parchment, alter which the degree of sti-ength does 
not seem to be a matter of much nicety. 

To take impressions from recent manuscripts. 

This is done by means of fusible metals. In or- 
der to show the application of it, paste a piece of 
paper on the bottom of a china saucer, and allow 
it to dry; then write upon it with common writing 
ink, and sprinkle some finely powdered gum arable 
ovec the writing, which produces 1i slight relief. 
When it is well dried, and the adhering powder 
brushed oS', the fusible metal is poured into the 
saucer, and is cooled rapidly, to prrvent crystalli- 
zation. The metal then lakes a cast of the writing, 
and when it is immersed in slightly warm water, 
to remove adhering gum, impressions may be taken 
from it as from a cnp])er plate. 

.Another method. — Fut a little sugar into a com- 
mon writing ink, and let the writing be executed 
with this upon common paper, sized as usual. 



When a copy is required, let unsized paper be 
taken and lightly moistened with a jponge. Tiien 
apply the wet paper to the writing, and passing 
lightly a flat-iron, of a moderate iieat, sucii as is ' 
used by laundresses, over the unsized paper, the 
copy will be immediately produced. This method 
requires no machine or preparation, and may be 
employed in any situation. 

To produce a facsimile of any -writing. 

The pen should be ;i:' de of glass enamel; the 
point being small and finely polished; %.i that the 
part above the point may be large enough to hold 
as much ink as, or more than a common writing 
pen. 

A mixture of equal parts of Frankfort black, 
and fresh butler, is now to be smeared over sheets 
of paper, and rubbed oft' after a certain time. The 
paper, thus sineared, is to be pressed for some 
hours; taking care to have sheets of blotting-paper 
between each of the sheets of black paper. When 
fit for use, writing paper is put between sheets of 
blackened paper, and the upper sheet is to be writ- 
ten on, with common writing ink, by the glass or 
enamel pen. By this method, not only the copy 
is obtained on which the p'^n v\ rites, but also, two, 
or more, made by means of the blackened paper. 
Substitute for copying machines. 

In the common ink used, dissolve lump sugar 
(1 drachm to 1 oz. of ink). Moisten the copying-pa- 
per, and then put it in soft can paper to absorb the 
superfluous moisture. — Put the moistened paper on 
the writing, place both between some soft paper, 
and either put the whole in the folds of a cai'pet, 
or roll upon a ruler three or four times. 
To copy -iuriti.ngs. 

Take a piece of unsized paper exactly of the 
size of the paper to be copied; moisten it with 
water, or with the following liquid: Take of dis- 
tilled vinegar, two pounds weight, dissolve it in 
one ounce of boracic acid; then lake four ounces of 
oyster shells calcined to whiteness, and carefully 
freed from their brown crust; put them into the 
vinegar, shake the mixture frequently for twenty- 
four hoars, then let it stand till it deposits its 
sediment; filter the clear part through unsized pa- 
per into a glass vessel; then add two ounces of the 
best Aleppo galls bruised, and jdace the liquor in 
a warm place; shake it frequently for twenty-four 
hours, then filter the liquor again through unsized 
paper, and add to it after filtration, one quart, ale 
measure, of pure water. It must then stand 24 
hours; and be filtered again, if it shows a disposi- 
tion to deposit any sediment, which it generally 
does. When paper has been wet with this liquid, 
put it between two thick unsized papers to absorb 
the superfluous moisture; then lay it over the wrjl- 
ing to be copied, and put a pi-cce c.f clean writing 
paper above it. Put the whole on the board of a 
rolling press, and press them through the rolls, as 
is done in printing conper-plates, and s. copy of 
the writing will appear on both sides of the thin 
moistened paper; on one side in a reversed order 
and direction, but on the other side in the natural 
oi'der and direction of the lines. 



XKEEDICXXXS. 



General rules for treating diseases. 
Rule 1. — In every complaint, whatever it may 
Be called, if you find the pulse quick, hard, full. 



and strong, — the head acVi, — tongue foul, — skin 
hot, or tliose maiks which denote it of an inflam- 
matory nature, remember the plan is to reduce it 

J2 2 



98 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



by bleeding, — purging, — low diet, — drinking plen- 
tifally of cold water and lemonade, — rest, he. 

Hide 2. — If on the contraiy, the pulse be small, 
Boft, feeble, and intermitting, — the tongue dark, 
and great debility or weakness is evident, reverse 
the whole plan; the diet must be generous and 
nourishing, — the bowels opened with gentle laxa- 
tives, — and the strength supported by bark, sul- 
phate of quinine, wine and tonics of various kinds. I 

It is necessary, however, to be careful in distin- 
g^iishing the weakness which is here meant, from 
that state of debility which arises from excessive 
action, from the stuffing up of the vessels, and 
which require;s the lancet. As a mistake might 
prove fai,al, attention should be paid to the pulse, 
by which they can be easily known. In that state 
which requires tonics, the pulse is small, soft, — 
sometimes like a thread and quick. In tlie other, 
it is slower and full, giving considerable registance 
*o the pressure of the finger. 

Huie 3. — If in addition to those symptoms men- 
tioned in the second I'ule, the tongue be covered 
with a black coat, — foul daik looking sores form 
about the gums and insides of the cheeks, — the 
breath be offensive, &e. the same class of reme- 
dies is to be vigorously employed, with a free use 
of acids and other antiseptic articles. 

Hide 4. — Severe local \)ains, as in the head, side, 
&c. require the use of the lancet, purging and blis- 
ters to tlie part. 

Jiule 5. — Incessant and earnest entreaties oh the 
part of the sick, for, or longing after, any particular 
article of diet, if steadily persevered in, may be 
safely indulged, whether the use of it agrees or not 
with our pre-conceived ideas on the subject. 

JRule 6. — In all fevers, where the pulse is quick, 
full and strong, — the skin burning to the touch, 
and there is no perspiration, dash cold water over 
the head and shoulders of the patient, wipe him 
dry and put him to bed. If in consequence of this. 
a chill be experienced, and the pulse sink, give 
warm wine, &;c. and omit the water for the future. 
Should a pleas-int glow, over the whole frame, fol- 
low the aftusion, and the patient feel relieved by 
it, repeat it as often as may be necessarj-. 

Jiule 7. — Observe carefully, the effects of vari- 
ous articles ot fL>od, as well as physic, upon your 
own body, and choose those which experience 
proves to agree best with you. It is a vulgar but 
true saying, that " What is one man's meat is ano- 
ther's poison." 

Jiule 8. — Keep a sick room always well venti- 
lated. Plenty of fresh air is an important reme- 
dial agent in all diseases. 

It is cot meant by this that the patient should 
be exposed to a direct current of air, which should 
be always avoided by well and sick. 



OF THE PULSE. 

The pulse is nothing more than the beating of 
an artery. Every time the heart contracts, a por- 
tion of b.ood is forced into the arteries, which di- 
late or swell to let it pass, pnd then immediately 
regain their former size, until by a second stroke 
of the same organ, a fresh column of blood is push- 
ed through them, when a similar action is repeat- 
ed. This swelling and contracting of the f'-teries 
then constitutes the pulse, and consequently it may 
be found in every purt of the body where those 
vessels run near enough to tlie surtace to be felt. 
Physicians look for it at the wrist, from motives 
of convenience. 

The strength and velocity of the pulse vary much 
in difl'erent persons, even in a sta e of pei-fect 
health. It is much quicker in children tiiaQ in 



adults; anO in old men, it grows more siow and 
feeble, owing to the decreased energy o* the heart. 
The pulse is increased both in strenj?^^ «nd veloci- 
ty by running, walking, riding, a^^ jumping; by 
eating, drinking, singing, speak. ng, and by joy, 
angei, &c. It is diminished in like manner, by 
fear, want of nourishment, melancholy, excessive 
evacuations, or by whatever tends to debilitate the 
system. 

In fseling the pulse then in sick persons, allow- 
ance should be made for these causes, or what is 
better, we should wait until their temporary ef- 
fects hav„ ceased. 

A full, tense and strong pulse, is when the ar- 
tery swells boldly under the finger, and resists its 
pressure more )v less; if, in addition to this, the 
pulsation be very rapid, it is called quick, full, 
and strong; if slow, the contrary. 

A hard, corded pulse, is that in which the arte- 
ry feels like the string of a violin, or a piece of 
tightened cat-gut, giving considerable resistance 
to the pressure of the finger. 

The soft, and intermitting pulses, are easily 
known by their names. In cases of extreme de- 
bility, on the approach of death, and in some par- 
ticular diseases, the artery vibrates under the fin- 
ger like a thread. 

In feeling the pulse, three or four fingers should 
be laid on it at once. The most convenient spot 
to do this, as already mentioned, is the Avrist, but 
it can be readily done in the temple, just before, 
and close to the ear, in the bend of the arm, at the 
under part of the lower end of the thigh, among 
the hamstrings, and on the top of the foot. 

There are two kinds of blood-vessels in the hu- 
man body: arteries and veins. The arteries carry 
the blood from the heart to the extremities of the 
body, where they are connected with the veins 
which bring it back again. An artery pulsates oi 
beats; a vein does not. 



OF FEVER. 

Fever is, by far, the most common complaint to 
which the human body is subject. It maybe brief- 
ly described as a combination of heat, thirst, loss 
of appetite, weakness, and inability to sleep. It 
makes its appearance in two ways: either sudden- 
ly and violently, or gradually and gently. When 
it comes on in the first manner, a cold shaking, at- 
tended with sickness at the stomach, or vomiting, 
marks it access; the cold is more severe than in 
the latter, as is also the pain in the head, and other 
symptoms. Wlien its attack is gradual, a feeling 
of soreness over the whole body, such as is expe- 
rienced after ?> hard day's work by one not accus- 
tomed to it, shows its approach. Nausea, pains in 
the head, chilis, and more or less heat and thirst 
soon follow. 

As these symptoms vary infinitely in their de- 
grees of violence, the vigour of the treatment to be 
pursued, must differ accordingly. Thus the same 
directions that are given for simple inflammatory 
fever, must be adhered to, in one whose symploma 
are lighter, though similar, only there is no ne- 
cessity fur pushing- them to so gx-eat an extent. 

■Simple irvftammatory fever. 

SpnpUmis. — Chills, riushed face, skin hot, eyes 
red,' pulse quick, full, strong, and regular, great 
thirst, tongue white, urine high-coloured and small 
in ijuantity, bowels costive, breatliing quick, &e. 

Causes. — Col'l, violent exercise, while exposed 
to ihe heat of tlie sun, intemperance, the iiidul 
gence of unruly passions. 

Treatment. — ^Bleed the patient at the very be» 



MEDICINE. 



199 



ginning of the attack. The quantity of blood to 
be taken, should be regulated by the strength and 
ao-e of the person, and the violence of tlie symp- 
toms. In this country, where diseases are very 
acute, from 12 to 15 onnces is an average quantity 
for a robust man. If there be great pain in tlie 
nead, shave it and apply a blister, or cloths wrung 
out of iced vinegar and water, frequently renewed. 
The bowels are to be freely opened, with Epsom 
or glauber salts, and the diet should consist of 
plenty of cold water, rice water, or lemonade. If 
the lieat of the body be excessive and burning to 
the touch, and 'h-sre is no perspiration, take the 
patient out of his bed, support him on his feet, and 
let several buckets of cold water be poured over 
his head and shoulders, in rapid succession, then 
wipe him dry and replace him in bed; should he 
not bt- able to stand, lay him on the floor, and dash 
the water over him in that position. If from ex- 
cessive weakness, or a groundless fear of the con- 
sequences, tliis is objected to, sponge the whole 
body with cold vinegar and water. All these re- 
medies are to be repeated, until the disease is over- 
come. If there be intense pain in the head or side, 
apply a blister. The saline mixture, below, will 
he found useful throughout; and to promote per- 
spiration, five or six grains of Dover's powder, 
taking care not to drink any thing for some time 
after it. An emetic, at the very onset, sometimes 
cuts short the disease. The room should be kept 
tjuiet, cool and dark, every source of excitement 
being removed. 

Saline mixture. — Salt of tartar, 2 drachms, wa- 
ter, 6 ounces. When tlie tartar is dissolved, add 
by degrees portions of fresh lemon juice till it 
ceases to effervesce. A table-spoonful may be ta- 
ken every half hour. 

Intennittent , or fever anid ague. 
Of this fever, there are several varieties, which 
dltferfrom each other only in the length of time that 
elapses between their attacks. There is one call- 
ed quotidian, in which it comes on every twenty- 
four liours; another named {ertian, in which it ar- 
rives eveiy forty-eight hours, and the third quar- 
tan, because the interval lasts seventy-twc hours. 
Symptoms. — The symptoms of fever anQ ague 
are, unfortunately, too well known among us, com- 
niet)",ing with yawning, stretching and uneasi- 
ness; this is succeeded by slight chills or shiver- 
ings, that end in a violent or convulsive shaking 
of the whole body. This is the cold fit, and is 
immediately followed by the fever or hot fit. The 
pulse rises, the skin becomes hot, pain in the head, 
tongue white, and all the marks of fever, termina- 
ting in a profuse sweat, which gradually subsiding, 
leaves the patient in his natural state, thougii 
somewhat weakened. 

Treatment. — On the first alarm that is given by 
a chill, or any of those feelings indicative of its ap- 
proach, take 50 or 60 drops of laudanum, in a glass 
of warm wine, with a little sugar and a few drops 
of the essence of peppermint, get into bed, aiid 
cover yourself *ith several blankets; this seldom 
tails to cut short the disease. If the cold fit, how- 
ever, has passed by, the next accession should be 
carefully watche 1, and the same remedy resorted 
to. If the inflammatory symptoms seem to require 
it, bleed and open the bowels with senn« and salts; 
when this is done, in the intervals use a quinine 
pill sf one grain every hour; if it cannot be pro- 
cured, take as large doses of Peruvian bark as the 
stomach will bear; in addition to this, endeavour 
during the cold fit to bring on the hot one, as spee- 
dily as possible, by warm drinks, bladders or bot- 
tles filled with warm water applied to the soles 
0f the teet and the stomach. Weak whiskey puncli i 



answers this purpose very vfesi, it also is of use by 
inducing sweat, when the hot stage is formed. If 
the Jisease resists this treatment, try 6 drops of 
Fowler's solution of arsenic three times a day, 
with the bark, gradually increasing it to 9 or tO 
dro[»s at each dose. As this is a powerful remedy, 
care must be taken to watch its efl^'ects; if it y)roduce 
sickness at the stomach, it must belaid aside. To 
restore the tone of the system when getting belter, 
i-emove to a healthy pure rir, use gentle and daily 
exercise, with a generous diet, wine and bitters. 
If tlie li'^er or spleen become attected, recourse 
must be had to mercury. 

N. B. Much mischief is done by giving either 
the quinine or the bark too early in the disease, 
and before its inflammatory stage is passed. It 
should never be employed until the bowels have 
been well opened and the inflammation reduced. 

liemitteni fever. 

This is a kind of fever which occasionally abates, 
but does not entirely cease, bef\^re a fresh attack 
comes on, so that the patient is never completely 
free from it. Tlie symptoms are of three kinds. 
When bile predominates, it is called Bilious Re- 
mittent or Bilious Fover, which in a highly aggra- 
vated state IS the true yellow fever of the United 
States and West Indies. This constitutes the first 
kind of remittent. 

The second is marked by debility, when it is 
called typhus or low nervous fever. 

The third exhibits all those raai'ks of debility 
and putrescency, which constitute putrid fever. 

Bilious fever. 

Symptoms. — In this disease all the marks of 
great excitement and a superfluity of bile are visi- 
ble; the skin is hot, the pulse tense and full, tongue 
white in the commencement, changi "g to brown, 
as the fever increases, breathing hurried and anx- 
ious, bowels very coative, and skin of a yellowish 
hue. In bad cases, there is great pain in the head, 
delirium, the patient picks at the bed clothes, a 
convulsive jerking of the tendons at the wrist, 
tongue black and furred, a deep yellow skin, vo- 
miting of a dark matter, that looks like coffee 
grounds, and hiccup. When the latter symptoms 
prevail, it is called yellow fever. 

Causes. — A peculiar poisonous vapour from 
ponds, marshes, and decaying vegetable matter. 

I'reatment.- -This must be conducted on our 
a:eneral principles. As the inflammatory and bili- 
ous symptoms are the most prevalent at the com- 
mer-iement, bleed the patient freely, and repeat 
the operation if the pulse seems to require it. The 
next step is to clear.se the stomach with an emetic, 
which having operated, open his bowels witli 
calomel. The lancet and calomel are the two 
sheet-anchors in this disease, and irresolution 
or timidity, in the employment of them at the 
beginning of it, may cost the sufferer nis life. 
From ten to twenty or thirty grains of calomel, 
combined with a portion of jalap, may be given 
in molasses, and repeated until copious evacu- 
ations are produced. The quantity ofthismedi- 
cire (caL.ael) that is required to dislodge the ac- 
cumulation in the bowels, in some cases of this 
complaint, is almost incredible to those who liave 
had no experience of it. If the pain in the head 
be veiy great, shave it and apply a blister. Should 
the skin be very hot, and great thirst and restless- 
ness prevail, dash cold water over the body, as di- 
rected in simple inflammatory fever. The diet 
should consist of rice-water, lemonade, &c. taking 
care to keep up a discharge from the bowels by- 
purgatives, during the whole of the disease. 

It, however, in spite of all endeavours to the 



200 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



contrary, the complaint seems arlvancing, endea- 
voui to bring on a st<livaticn, as quickly as possible. 
To effect this, one of the powders below, No. 1, 
may be ttkeu every three hours. In cases wliich 
bear a threatening aspect from the beginning, it is 
])erhaps the safest plan, having previously bied and 
purged, to salivate at once, and without waiting till 
the secondary and more dangerous symptoms show 
themselves. The moment the mouth is affected, 
and the patient begins t'j spit, omit the medicine. 
As soon as symptoms of pulrescency make their 
appearance, no mercury should be given internally; 
on the contrary, bark, wine, acids, &cc. are neces- 
saiy to support the patient, who should be kei/t 
clean, cool, and comfortable, excluding all ncise. 
The extreme iiTuability of the stomach, which is 
frequently found in bilious fever, may be overcome 
by the srvline draught, in a state of effervescence, 
(to be found in oage 199), and in the latter stage of 
it, when the pulse flags, and the system appears sink- 
ing, the quinine mixture, No. 2, has been found ex- 
tremely useful. B'istersand mustard poultices may 
also be applied in this case to the ankles, thighs and 
wrists, liubbing the body freely with the decoction 
of Spanish flies in turpentine, and the -iternal use 
of the quinine, are invaluable remedies in all such 
cases, and should never be omitted. 

There are in fact two distinct stages in this dis- 
"ease that require two different plans of treatment. 
The first is bilious and inflammatory, and should 
be met by bleeding, vomiting, purging with calo- 
mel, or a salivation, blisters to the head, and the 
affusion of cold water. 

The second is putrid and bilious, and must be 
treated by wine, brandy, the quinine mixture, 
sound porter, and the peculiar ])lan recommended 
in putrid fever; always recollecting that if we can 
bring on a salivation early in the disease, we have 
a fair chance of saving oi'r patient. 

No. I. Salivating poxuders. — Calomel, 6 grains, 
antiraonial powder, 3 grains. 

No. 2. Quinine mixture. — Sulphate of quinine, 
13 grains, powdered gum arable, 1 drachm, loaf 
sugar half an ounce, v ater, 6 oz. essence of pepper- 
mint, -5 drops. Shake the bottle well each time it is 
poured out. The dose is a table-spoonful every hour. 

Typhis, or low nervous fever. 

Symptoms. — Languor, debility, dejection of 
mind, alternate flushes of heat and chills, loathing 
of food, confusion of ideas. These are succeeded 
by vertigo, paiQ in the head, difiici.ltj'^ of breath- 
ing, frequent weak, and sometimes intermitting 
pulse, the tongue dry, and covered with a brown 
f'lr, the teeth and gums being encrusted with the 
same, the forehead is covered with sweat, while 
the hands are dry and glow with heat, the patient 
talks wildly. 

Causes. — Contagion, grief, whatever tends to 
■weaken the system, a poor diet, living in close, 
filthy apartments, inordinate venereal indulgences. 
Distinguish it from putrid fever by the attack cora- 
/ng on more gradually, and by the greater mildness 
of the symptoKiS, by the want of those putrid marks 
mentioned in the former, and by the absence of 
vomiting. 

Treatment. — If the bowels be costive, gi?e some 
gentle laxative, as rhubarb, or six or eight grains 
of calomel, with as many of jalap. As soon as 
this has operated, or even before, (if the weakness 
of thii patient seem to require it) exhibit wine as 
freely as the stomach will bear, not only as a drink, 
but mixed with his food, which should be sago, 
tapioca, panada, jellies, &c. If no wine is to be 
had, brandy, and porter (an important article, when 
good) are to be freely employed, always remem- 
bering, that if the strength of the patient be not 



supported by these means, he will die of debifitr. 
Dashing cold water over the bodv is a remedy m 
this disease of great value. If delirium or insen- 
sibility conie on, shave the head and apply a blister 
to it, or cloths wrung out of iced vinegar and wa- 
ter. If a purging ensue, it must be stopped, or if 
will prove fatal; this may be done by the mixture. 
No. 1, and by opium, which should be given 
throughout the disease in liberal doses evei-y night. 
The Cayenne mixture. No. '2, musk mixture. No. 
3, and the camphor mixture, No. 4, will also be 
found useful. Great reliance is now placed upon 
the sulphate of quinine, which may be taken in 
doses of two or three grains, four times a day, dis- 
solved in a little gum arabic tea, or in pills. 

The order of remedies then, in typhus fever, is 
to open the bowels with laxatives, to use wine, 
brandy, porter and opium, freely, to dash c 'd wa- 
ter over tiie body, to give chicken water, jellies, 
tapioca, sago, &:c. to check purging, keep the room 
cool and clean, use the quinine mixture, one or all 
of tlie different mixtures of campbor, musk oi 
Cayenne [lepper, to giA'e opium every night, and if 
delirium come on, to apply blisters to the head. 
Bleeding is, at best, a doubtful remedy in typhus, 
and should never be allov/ed without being order- 
ed by a physician; nine times out of ten it is cer- 
tain death to the patient. 

No. 1. .^stringent mixture. — Chalk mixture, 
4 ounces, tincture of kino, 1 drachm, lavendet 
compound, 1 draclim, laudanum, 30 drops. Dose, 
a table-spoonful every two or three hours, as may 
be required. 

No. 2. Cayenne mixture. — Cayenne, pepper, 6 
ounces, common .salt, 4 drachms, boiling water 
and vinegar, of each a pint and a half. Let them 
remain in a close vessel for an hour, then strain 
through a fine linen cloth. The dose is n table- 
s[)oonful every one or two hours, according to cir- 
cumstances. , 

No. 3. JMusk 7nixtu'^e. — Musk, one drachm, 
gum arabic, powdered, one drachm, loaf sugar, the 
same, water, six ounces. liub up the rausk and 
sugar, adding the water very gradually. The dose 
is a table-spoonful ever)' two hours. 

No. 4. Camphor mixture. — Camphor, 30 grains 
blancl.-ed almonds, 2 drachms, loaf sugar, IJ 
drachms, peppermint water, 6 ounces, Moistei* 
the camphor with a few drops of spirits of wine, 
and rub it to a powder. The aim. nds and susiar 
beat to a paste, add the camphor, und pour in the 
water gradually. The dose is a table-spoonfui 
every two or three hours. 

Putrid fever. 

Symptoms. — Severe chills, astonishing and sud- 
den loss of strength, countenance livid, and ex- 
pressive of horror and anxiety, the skin sometimes, 
burning to the touch, at others the heat is mode- 
rate, the pulse is quick, small and ha.-d, vomiting 
of bile, violent pain in the head, redness of the 
eyes, low muttering delirium, the tongue is cover- 
ed w ith a dark brown or black looking crust, black- 
ish sores form about th**- gums, the breath is very 
offensive, and, in the latter stage, the urine also, 
which deposits a dark sediment, in extremely 
bad cases blood is poured out under the skin, 
forming purple spots, and breaks out from the 
nose and different parts of the body, the pulse 
flatters and sinks, hiccup comes on, ami death , 
closes the horrid scene. 

Treatment. — As severe cases of this disease are 
apt to run their career with fatal rapidity, no time 
should be loit; bleeding is not admissible, the Joss 
of a few ounces of blood being equivalent to a sen- 
tence of death. A gentle emetic is tbe first medi- 
cine to be given, which having operated, sliould t)« 



MEOICINE. 



20 



lollowed by a mild purgative; 6 or 8 grains of calo- 
niel, witli as many of jalap, answer the purpose. 
Tliis being; ilone, resort imnediately to the cold 
water, tt'Iiich should be dashed over the body, as 
already directed. If the weakness of the patient 
be such, that fears are entertained of his sinking 
under tlie shock, sponge him with vinegar and wa- 
ter. When employed early in the complaint this 
practice produces tlie happiest results. As soon 
(18 he IS wiped dry, and has taken the wine if chill- 
ed, give 10 drops of muriatic acid, with 8 or 9 
drops of laudanum, in a wine glass of the cold in- 
fusion of bark, every four hours, gradually in- 
creasing the quantity of the acid to twenty drops 
or mo;-e at a dose. Wine and water should be 
liberally given in this disease, as soon as the putrid 
and typhus sj^mptoras show themselves; like every 
thing else that is used, it sliould be taken cold. 
Tiie sulphate of quinine, in the same doses as men- 
tioned in typhus, is a valuable remedy. Yest is 
miicli used in putrid fever; the dose is two table- 
spoonsful every two or three hours, or it may be 
mi.xed in porter or beer, and taken in small quan- 
tities very frcjuently. 

As a wash for the mouth, nothing is better than 
ftn ounce of alum dissolved in a pint of water. 
Rest at night must be procured by opium, provided 
there is no delirium. If towards the end of the 
complaint, there arise a gentle looseness, accom- 
panied with a moisture on the skin, that seems 
likely to prove critical, it should not be meddled 
v'ith, but otherwise, it must be stopped by as- 
ti'ingents. As this is a highly contagious disease, 
all unnecessary communication with the sick should 
be forbidden. The chamber should be kept cool, 
clean, and frequently sprinkled with vinegar, and 
all nuisances be immediately removed. Much ad- 
vantage will result from taking the patient, on the 
very commencement of the attack, into a new and 
healtliy atmosphere. 

Hectic fever. 

This is never a primary disease, but is always 
found as a symptom of some other one, as con- 
sumption. 

Symptoms. — Night sweats, bowels costive at 
first, then loose, alternate chills and flushes, a cir- 
cumscribed spot on the cheeks, a peculiar delicacy 
of complexion and emaciation to so great a degree, 
that the patient sometimes looks like a living ske- 
leton. 

Treatment. — Remove the cause, by curing the 
disease of which it is a symptom. 

Ivfiammation of the brain. 

Symptoms. — Intense pain in the head, the eyes 
incapable of bearing the light, delirium, face flush- 
ed, oppression at the breast, the pulse hard and 
very rapid, tongue, at first of a fiery red, then yel- 
low, brown or black. 

Causes. — ^K.sposure to excessive heat of the sun, 
blows on the head, intense application to study, 
>nterjperance. J)istinguish it from inflammatory 
fever by the pulse, which in the one is full, strong 
and regular, in the other, hard, quick and cordetl, 
and by the raving delirium. From typhus by the 
two latter marks. 

Treatment. — Bleed the patient (as quickly as 
possible) until he nearly faints. LTpon the reso- 
lute employment of the lancet in the onset, we 
must place our chief dependence. The bowels 
should be freely opened with Epsom or Glauber 
salts, the head shaved, and a blister, or cloths dip- 
ped in iced vinegar and w?ter, or pounded ice, be 
applied to it, and the room kept perfectly cool, 
dark, and quiet. Rice water, lemonade, or cold 
water, is to be the only diet. Should the violence 
a A 



of the disease not give way to these remedies, re» 
pet>t the bleeding blistering, &c. as utlsn as may 
be necessary. The most vigorous measure? to re- 
duce the inflammation are required, or death will 
be the consequence. 

Ilead-ach. 

Causes. — Some particular disease of M'hich it is 
a symptom. Indigestion, a foul stomacli, tight 
cravats or shirt collars, exposure to the heal of the 
run, a rushing of blood into the head. 

Treatment. — This will vary according to the 
cause. If it arises from indigestion, that must be 
attended to. A. foul stomach is one of the most 
usual causes ol head-ach: such is the connexion be- 
tween these i)arts, that tlie one is seldom out of 
order, without notice being given of it by t!ie other. 
In this case, an emetic should always be adminis- 
tered, which, at a day's interval, is to be followed 
by a purgative. If from the beating of the artery 
in the temples and a sense of fulness in the head, 
we suspect it to originate fiom an undue deter- 
mination to that pait, bleed freely, and ap[)ly cloths 
dipped in cold water to it. Long continued and 
obstinate head-ach has been frequently benefited 
by issues on the back of the neck. 



Inflammation of the eye. 

Sijrrptoms. — Pain, lieat and swelling of the p;frts, 
which appear blood-shot, the tears hot and scald- 
ing, fever, intolerance of light, sometimes when 
the lids are aft'ected, the edges b'^come ulcerated. 

Causes. — External injuries, as blows, particles 
of sand, &c. getting into them, exposure to cold, a 
strong light, intemperance. 

Treatment. — If the complaint is caused by fo- 
reign bodies, they must be removed witii tlie point 
of a paint brush, or the end of a yjiece of wire co- 
vered with lint, or washed out by injecting warm 
rnilk and water into the eye, with a small syringe. 
If particles of iron stick in it, they may bo drawn 
out by a magnet, irom whatever circumstance it 
may originate, the inflammation is to be subdued 
by bleedirig from the arm, and from the neighaour- 
hood of the eye, by a dozen or more leeches. The 
bowels should be freely opened with Epsom salts, 
and a cold lead-water poultice, enclosed in a piece 
of thin gause, be laid over the part. The room 
should be perfectly dark, and the diet extremely- 
low. Weak brandy and water, lead water, or rose 
water, may be used as a lotion. If the pain is very 
severe, a small quantity of equal parts of lauda- 
num and water may be dropped into the eye. If 
the eye lids are ulcerated, touch them with the 
white vitriol ointment. Bathing tlie eye frequent- 
ly with clear cold water, is a refreshing ai.d useful 
practice. 

Dimness of sight. 

Symptoms. — ^The patient imagines he sees par- 
ticles of dust, flies, and cobwebs, floating in the 
air, and cannot distinguish clearly any object, either 
near to him, or at a distance. Though the pupil 
sometimes does not contract, the eye is to all ap- 
pearance unchanged. 

Causes. — Pressure on the optic nerves, within 
the scull, by tumours, or other causes, or an error 
or defect in the formation of the nerves themselves, 
drunkenness, blows on the head, apoplexy, exces- 
sive venereal indulgences. 

Treatment. — Blisters, issues, or a seton to the 
hack of the neck, simfi^ by exciting a discharge 
from the nose, is of use. • Electric sparks passed 
through the forehead, and drawn from the eyes, if 
persevered in for a considerable time, may prove 
effectual. As many causes of this disease are seat- 
ed in the intestines and stomach, a light emetic. 



202 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



may be first given, ami then a succession of purga- 
tives for several days or weeks. 



J^igltt blindness. 

Symptoms. — ^The sight is perfectly clear and dis- 
tinct diiring the day, but completely lost at night. 

Causes. — A diseased liver, exposure to a strong 
light. 

Treatment. — This disease is not common in the 
United States; it is sometimes, however, met with. 
The first thing to be done, is to shade the eyes hy 
a green silk screen, and to avoid any strong light; 
the next, is to bathe the eye very frequently with 
cold water, or a wash, made by dissolving twelve 
or fourteen grains of white vitriol in four ounces 
of rose or common water. Blisters on the tem- 
ples, placed as close to the eyes as possible, are 
higllily useful. 

There are many other diseases incident to the 
eyes, but none that can be managed by any but a 
plij-sician or surgeon. When, therefore, any alte- 
ration in the structure of the eye is perceived, no 
time sliould be lost in having recourse to one or 
the other. 



Inflammation of the ear. 

Symptoms— VviSn in the ear, wliich at last either 
gradually ceases or matter is discharged through 
the opening. 

CaTises. — Tlie accumulation of hard wax, in- 
sects getting into it, injuries trom blows, &c. 

Treatment. — A little warm olive oil, with an 
equal part of laudanum, dropped into the ear, and 
retained there by a piece of wool or cotton, will 
frequently procure almost instant i-elief. [f it be 
caused by hard wax, inject warm soap suds or salt 
water to soften it, and then, with care, endeavour 
to extract it, when the oil and laudanum may again 
be employed. In cases of great severity, a blister 
may be applied behind the ear. A temporary deaf- 
ness frequently results from this complaint, and 
sometimes, wlien matter is formed, the bones 
of the organ are destroyed, and hearing is^lost fur- 



lileeding from the nose. 

Causes. — Fulness of hlood, violent exercise, par- 
ticular positions of the body, blows, &c. 

Treatment. — Keep the patient erect or sitting 
with his head thrown a little backwards, take oft 
his cravat, unbutton his shirt collar, sind expose 
him freely to the cold air; apply ice or cold vine- 
gar and water to his testicles, and the back of the 
neck. If the pulse be full, bleed him from the 
arm. If these ai-e not sufficient, moisten a plug 
of linen with brandy, roll it in powdered alum and 
screM' it up the nostril. A piece of cat-gut may 
also be passed through the nostril into the throat, 
drawn out at the month, and a bit of sponge be fas- 
tened to it and drawn back again, so as to make 
the sponge block up the posterior nostril. In doing 
this it is necessary to leave a piece of the cat-gut 
so as to be got hold of, in order to withdraw tlie 
sponge. It is seldom, however, that the first re- 
medies will not answer the purpose. 

Polypus. 
The nose is subject to two species of this tu- 
mour: — the pear-shaped or pendulous polypus, 
and a flattened irregular excrescence, which is ex- 
treme'y painful, and is o-t'a cancerous nature. As 
soon as «ny affection of this kind is suspected, ap- 
ply to R surgeon. 

Cancer of the lip. 
Tfcjs kind of cancer always commences in a 



small crack, which, after a while, becomes exqui* 
sitely painful. If closely examined, this crack is 
found to be seated in a small hard tumour, which 
soon ulcerates, and if not checked, extends the dis- 
order to the tliroat, thereby endangering life. 

Treatment.' — The knife is the only remedy for 
this, as well as every other species of cancer, and 
no time should be lost in resortins; to a surgeon. 



Mercunal idcers in the mouth. 

Large, dark looking ulcers in the mouth are a 
common effect of tlie abuse of mercury. They may 
be known by the horrid smell of the breath, by the 
teeth being loosened from the gums, and by a cop- 
pery taste in the mouth. 

Treatment. — 'Omit all mercurial preparations, 
wash the mouth frequently with sage tea or vine- 
gar and water, drink freely of sarsaparilla tea, and 
keep the bowels open witii sulphur. 

Ulcers and pimples on the tongue. 
Small pimples are occasionally found on the 
tongue, which at last form ulc^^i-s. Sometimes they 
are occasioned by the rough and projecting edge 
of a broken or decayed tooth: when this is the 
cause, the part must be rounded by a file or the 
tcoth extracted^ when the sore will heal without 
further trouble. Whitish looking specks, which 
seem inclined to spread, are also met with on the 
inside of the cheeks and lips. They are easily re- 
moved by touching their surfaces with burnt alum. 

Cancer of the tongue. 

Cancer of the tongue commences like that of tho 
lip, being a crack or fissure in a small, hard, deep 
Sealed tumour on the side of the tongue. 

Treatment. — No lime should be lost in useless 
attempts to cure it by medicines. The only safety 
for the patient is in the knife, and that at an early 
period. 



Enlargement of the uxnda. 

The uyula is that little tongue-like appendage 
that hangs down from the middle of the fleshy 
curtain which divides the n.outh from the throat. 
It is vei-y subject to inflammation, the consequence 
of which is, that it becomes so long that its point 
touches, and sometinfs even lies along the tongue, 
which creates considerable uneasiness, and is now 
and tiien the cause of a constant cough, which 
finally ends in consumption. It is commonly 
called the falling of the palate. 

Treatment. — -Strong gargles of vinegar and wa- 
ter, or a decoction of black oak bark, or a watery 
solution of alum, will frequently cure tiie com- 
plaint. It happens v?ry frequently, however, tiiat 
in consequence of repeated attacks, it becomes 
permanently lengtiiened, and then the only re- 
source is to cut oli" the end of it. If you are near 
a physician apply to him, if not, the operation is 
so simple that any man of common dexterity can 
perform it, particularly as little or no blood fol- 
lows the incision. All that is requisite, is lO seal 
the patient, seize the part with a hook, or a slendei 
pair of pincers, draw it a little forward, and snij' 
oft' its yoint with a pair of scissors. 

StuelUng of the tonsils. 

The tonsils are two glands situated in the throat, 
one on each side, \v hich are very apt to swell from 
inflammation by colds. They sometimes becorae 
so large as to tiireaten suftijcation. 

Treatment. — In the commencement, this is the 
same as directed for i iflammatory sore throat, 
which see. If it does not succeed, apply to a sur- 
geon to take them awav. 



MEDICINE. 



i!03 



Inflammatory sore throat. 
Symptoms. — Chills and flushes of heat succeed 
ing each other; fever; the inside of the mouth, the i 
throat and tonsils much inflamed; swallowing is 
painful; hoarseness; heat and darting pains in the 
throat. 

Causes. — Cold; sitting in damp clothes; wet 
feet; excessive exertions of voice- 
Distinguish it from putrid sore throat by the 
fever being inflammatory, &c. 

Treatment. — An emetic, taken at a very eai'ly 
stage of this disorder will frequently prevent it 
from forming. The next step is to bleed the pa- 
tient freely, and give hira a large dose of Epsom 
salts. A mustard poultice, or hlistcr tothe throat, 
is an invaluable application, and should never be 
neglected. The room should be kept cool and 
quiet, and the diet consist of barley or rice water. 
The throat may be gargled several times in the 
day with vinegar and water; inhaling the steam of 
hot water, from the spout of a tea pot, is of use. 
If symptoms of putrescency appear, treat it as di- 
rected in putrid sore throat. 



Putrid sore throat. I 

Symptoms. — All the marks of typhus; on the 
second day a difficulty of swallowing; respiration I 
hurried; breath hot; skin dry and burning; a \ 
quick, weak and irregular pulse; starlet patches 
break out about the lips, and the inside of the 
mouth and throat is of a Hery red colour. About 
the third day blotches of a dark, red colour make 
their appearance about the face and neck, which 
soon extend over the whole body. Upon examin- 
ing the throat a number of specks, between an ash 
and a dark brown coHur are observed on the pa- 
late, uvula, tonsils, Sec; a brown fur covers the 
tongue; the lips are ccjvered with little vesicles or 
bladders, which burst and give outathin acrid 
matter, that produces ulceration wherever it 
touches. In bad cases, the inside of the mouth 
and throat become black, and are covered with foul 
slireading ulcers, when all the symptoms that cha- 
racterize putrid fever ensue. 

Distinguish it from scarlet fever, by the fever 
being a typhus and not inflammatory, by the sore 
throat, dark tongue, and putrid symptoms; and 
from measles, by the absence of cough, sneezing, 
watering of the eyes, &c. 

Ti'eatmetit, — Bleeding in this disease is abso- 
lutely forbidden. The same may be said of active 
or strong purgatives. The bowels, however, should 
be kept open by mild laxatives or clysters. If to- 
wards the close of the complaint there is any ob- 
struction, a few grains of calomel and rhubarb 
may be ^'iven. Cold water dashed over the body 
is one ot the most powerful remedies we can em- 
ploy; it should never be omitted; and as soon as 
the patient is dried and in bed, half a pint of 
strong mulled wine should be given to him. This 
practice, boldly followed, frequently puts an end 
to the disease. 

Emetics are used in the beginning with advan- 
tage, but the great and evident indication is to 
prevent and counteract the disposition to putres- 
cency, and to support the strength. For this pur- 
pose the cold infusion of bark, or bark in substance, 
with ten or twelve drops of muriatic acid, and 
eight or nine drops of laudanum, should be taken 
frequently, and in large doses. Cayenne pepper 
is a valuable article; it maj' be taken in pills, or in 
the mixture before described, p. 200. To cleanse 
the throat, gargle frequently -vith vinegar and wa- 
ter. Any looseness of the bowels must be checked 
by poerful astringents. I'he diet should consist 
of ar.ow root, jelly, panada, tapioca, and gruel, 
and the drink of wine whey, wine and water, &c. 



increasmg the quantity of the wine according tc 
the weakness and age of the patient. The greatest 
cleanliness is to be observed in the chamlier. As 
this disease is undoubtedly contagious, all unne- 
cessary communication with the sick room should 
be prevented, and those who are compelled to be 
with then., will do well to take a S])oonful of the 
Cayenne mixture from time to lime, by wav of 
prevention. It is asserted to be a safe-guard. " 

Strictures in the throat. 

Symptoms. — The first mark of an obstruction or 
stricture in tl>e throat, is a slight difiiculty in 
swallowing solids, whi h continues increasing for 
months, or until the passage becomes so contracted 
that the smallest Y)article of ti.od cannot pass, but 
having remained an instant at the strictured part, 
is violently rejected. If the obstacle is not re- 
moved, the patient starves. 

Treatment. — Meddle not with the complaint 
yourself, for you can do nothing to relieve it, but 
apply with all speeil to a surgeon, and remember 
that your life is at stake. 

Catarrh, or cold. 

Symptoms. — A dull p<.in in the head, swelling 
and redness of the eyes, the effusioii of a thin 
acrid mucus from the nose, hoarseness, cough, fe- 
ver, &c. 

Treatment. — If the symptoms be violent, bleed 
and give twenty drops of hartshorn in half a pint 
of warm vinegar whev. Hoarhound and boneset 
tea, taken in large quantities, are very useful. l"he 
patient should be confined to his bed, and be freely 
purged. If there is great pain in the breast, apply 
a blister to it. I'o ease the cough take 2 tea- 
spoonsful of No. 1 every 15 minutes, or till relief 
is obtained. 

The Influenza is nothing more than an aggra- 
vated state of catarrh, and is to be cured by the 
same remedies. No cough or cold is too light to 
merii attention. Neglec'.ed colds lay the founda- 
tion of diseases that every year send thousands to 
the grave. 

No. 1. Co7igh mixture. Paregoric, half an ounce, 
syrup of squills, 1 oz., antinionial wine, 2 drachms, 
water, six ounces. Dose is 2 teaspoousful every fif- 
teen minutes till the coua'h abates. 



Asthma. 

Symptoms. — A tightness across the breast, fre- 
quent short breathing, attended with a wheezing, 
increased by exertion and when in bed. It comes 
on in fits or paroxysms. 

Treatment. — if the cough be violent and fre- 
quent, with great pain in the breast, and the patient 
be young and robust, it vvill be necessary to bleed 
him. In old people it should be resorted to with 
caution. The tincture of digitalis is highly re- 
commended in asthma. It should be taken in doses 
of a very few drops at first, and cautiously increas- 
ed. If the pulse sinks under it, or giddiness, &c. 
is jiroduced, it must be laid aside. In fact, it is 
hardly prudent to take this active and dangerous 
article, "except under a physician's care. The Indian 
tobacco may be safely used in place of it, in doses 
of a tea-spoonful of the tincture* every half hour, 
till relief is obtained. The dried roots of the thorn 
apple and skunk cabbage are sometimes smoked 
tlirough a pipe for the same puipose. Asthma is 
a disease that is seldom completely cured by art; 
nature, however, occasionally effects it. 

* Take a sufficient quantity of the leaves, stem, 
and pods of the plant, jiut them in-to a bottle and 
fill it up with brandy or spirits, and let it remain 
for a few iays. 



204 



UMEVERSAL KECEIPT BOOK. 



Pleurisy. 

Symptoms. — A sharp pain or stitch in the side, 
increased upon breathing-, inabili'.y of lying on the 
affected side, pulse hard, quick and corded, tongue 
white. 

Treatment. — Take f.way at once from twelve to 
fiFteen ounces of blood, place a large Liislt-r over 
the side, and give a full dose of Epsom salts. Re- 
peat the bleeding as of.en as the pulse seems to 
demand it, and if expectoration does not come on, 
apply another blister close to the first one. All 
the remedies, for the reduction of inflammation, 
must be actively employed. Tl>e patient should 
be confined to his bed, w.:h the head and shoul- 
ders a little elevated, and a warm decoction of llie 
twigs and leaves uf the common hemlock taken 
frequently, and in liberal quanities. I'he diet 
should always consist of rice or barley water. 

Spitting of blood. 

Symptoms. — Blood of a' bright red colour, often 
froth}', brought up by coughing. 

Causes. — Consumption and its causes, a fulness 
of blood, r".ptureof a blood vessel from any cause. 
Distinguish it from vomiting of blood, by its blight 
colour, and being brought u;) with coughing. 

Treatment. — Give the patient at once a table- 
spoonful of common salt, ant! direct him to swal- 
low it. If the pulse is full, bleed him. The sugar 
of lead has much rej)utation in this complaint; 2 
or 3 grains df it, with from a half to a whole grain 
of opium, may be taken every 3 or 4 hours, and in 
severe cases, where the blood flows rapidly, 5 cr 
6 grains, with two of opium, may betaken at once. 
The most perfect rest should be strictly enjoined, 
and the diet consist of cold mashed turnips or cold 
rice water. 



Consu-nption. 

Symptoms. — A short, dry cough, languor and 
gradual ioss of strength, pulse small, quick, and 
soft, pain in the br^iist, v^xpectoration of a t. ilhy 
matter, that at last becomes solid and yellow, the 
breathing grows more anxious and luu'ried, the 
emaciation and pain increase, hectic fever, night 
sweats and a looseness of tlie bowels come on, and 
the \)atient, unsuspicious of danger, dies. 

Causes. — Neglected colds, dissipation, &c. Dis- 
tinguish it by the long continued dry cough, pain in 
the breast, and great enjiciation, by the substance 
thrown up being pure pus; in common language, 
matter. It is known by its being opaque, mixing 
with water, and heavier than it, so tiiat if thrown 
Into a vessel containing that fluid, it sinks to the 
bottom. When thrown upon hot coals it yields an 
offensive odour. 

Treatment. — In a confirmed state of consump- 
tion, nothing that art has hitherto been able to do, 
can afford us any solid hopes of a cure. When 
once the disease is firmly seated in the lungs, all 
that is possible, is to smooth the passage to the 
grave, and perhaps for a while to retard it. If, 
however, the disease is taken in its very bud, much 
may be done by a change of climate, a milk diet, 
vigorous and daily exercise on horseback, and by 
carefully avoiding cold and all exciting causes. A 
removal to a warm climate should be the first step 
taken, if practicable: if not, a voyage to sea, or a 
Jong journey on hoi-seback. A complete suit of 
flannel, worn next the skin, is an indispensable ar- 
ticle for every one who is even inclined to this 
most fatal disorder. 



PaltiitatiuH of the heart. 
The sym])toma jf J.is complaint must be obvi- 
ous from its name. When it arises from a dis- 
eased state of the heart or its vessels, nothing can 



be done to cure U. The patient should be careful 
to avoid a full habit of body, and abstain from vio- 
lent exercise and sexual indulgences. I-?e should 
live low, and keep as quiet and couipnsed as pos- 
sible. A fit of ans!;er, or any imprudence, may cost 
hira his life. Tli^re is a milder kind of this dis- 
ease, resulting from debility, which nuist be reme- 
d'ed by restoring the strength of the general sys- 
tmii. It is also symptomatic of other diseases, nnd 
must be treated accordingly. 



Dropsy of the chest. 

Symptoms. — Great ditficulty of breathing, which 
is increased by lying down, oppression and weight 
at the breast, countenance jiale or livid, and ex- 
tremely anxious, great thirst, pulse irregular and 
interniitung, cough, violent palpitation of the 
heai'l, the patient can lie on one side only, or can- 
not lie down at all, so that he is obliged to sleep 
sitting, frightful dreams, a feeling of saffocation, 
Sec. 

Treatment — This is another of those diseases 
that mock the art of man. To sny it is incurable, 
v.'ould be hazarding too much, but as yet, il has near- 
ly always proved so. AH tliat can be done is to fol- 
low the same plan that is laid down for the treat- 
ment of dropsy in general, which consists of purg- 
ing, emetics, and diuretics. When the water ap- 
pears to be confined to one cavity of the chest, and 
the o))pi-ession cannot be borne, some relief may 
be obtained by a surgical operation. 

Infamr.'iaiion of the stomach. 

Symptoms. — A.fixed burning pai!i in the stomach, 
small, verv quick hr.rd [)ulse, sudcien and great 
weakness, the [)ain in the sto'iacb increased on the 
slightest pressure, vomitiiis;, iiicciip. To these 
are sometimes abided ii:i ei_> sipelatoiis inflamma- 
tion, extending from the n>ouib to the stomach, 
fainting, clammy sweats, and death. 

Causes. — Cold suddenly applied to the body op 
stomach, drinking largely of cold water while very 
warm. The striking in of eruptions, poisons, gout, 
rheumatism. Distinguish it from inflammation of 
the bowels l)y the seat of the pain, which is ju.st 
below the breast l)onc, in what is called the pit of 
the stomach, the ()urnmg heat and pain there, by 
the hicc,up and voniiting. 

Treatment. —As you value the life of the patient 
bleed him quickly, largely, and frequently. The 
only safet}' for him is found in tlie fearless use of 
the lancet. 'I'lie softness of the pulse is here no 
rule to go by — for it, and the convulsions, are caus- 
ed by tiie disease. The rule is to bleed every few 
hours till the inflammation is subdued. From twen- 
ty to thirty ounces may be taken in a full stream 
from a robust man at the begiiniing, and ten more 
in 6 or 8 hours, and so on. As soon as he is bled, 
01 while the blood is flowing, put him into a warm 
bath, and have a large blister prepared, whicli, af- 
ter he has remained some time in the bath, shouhj 
he applietl directly over the stomach. A warm 
laxative clyster is now to be thrown up, and when 
the stomach will retain it, give him small quanti- 
ties of arrow root jelly or gum arable tea, from 
time to lime, with a few drops of laudanum. The 
most rigid diet must be observed, and the patient 
kept very quiet. 

When the inflammation is reduced, and the sto- 
mach will bear it, a grain of solid opium may be 
given occasionally wi<,h advantage. If the disease 
has been brought on by poison taken into the sto- 
mach, apply ibe remedies directed in such cases. 
If mortification ensues, death is the inevitable con- 
sequence. It may always be expected to take place, 
when the lancet has not been freely employed a? 
Uie beginning, and known to exist, when froAU tlie 



MEDICINE. 



£06 



state of torture we have just described, there is a 
sxidden change to one of perfect ease. 

Cramp in the stomach. 

Symptoms. — Violent spasraodie pain in the sto- 
mach, which is so severe, as nearly to occasion 
faintiiis;. 

Treatmeiit. — Give 50 or 60 drops of laudanum, 
in a lea-si»oonful of ether, with a little iiot wine. 
Apply bb'.fiders or bottles filh-d with 'Vi.rm water 
vo the stninach and soles of the feet, or put the pa- 
tient into tlie warm bath. If the first dose of lau- 
danum does not relieve the pain, repeat it. 

Hiccups. 

Si'mptoms. — A spasmodic affection of the sto- 
mach and diaphragm, jjroducing the peculiar noise, 
■which gives rise to the name. 

Treattnent. — When hiccups occur at the close 
of any disesse, they may be considered the harbin- 
gers of death; they, however, frequently arise from 
acidity in the stomach and other causes. A ionp; 
draught of cold water, a sudden surprise or fright, 
puts an end to them. A blister over the stomach may 
be applied for the same pur)>ose. I have succeeded 
in relieving a violent case of hiccups, that resisted 
every other remedy, by the oil of amber, in doses 
of five drops every 10 minutes. It may be taken 
in a little mint water. 



Heart-burn. 
This common and distressing affection is most 
generally connected with indigestion. To rel'^ve 
it for the moment, magnesia, soda, cr Seltzer 
■water, and water acidulated with sulphuric acid, 
may be employed. To cure the complaint re- 
quires the digestive powers to be strengiliened by 
tonics, bitters, and the different preparations of 
iron, &c. as directed for indigestion. The appli- 
caticn of a blister over the stomach may be of use. 
The whi.e oxyd of bismuth in G grain doses, three 
'imes a-day, taken in milk, has been found of ser- 
vice. 



Iiidigesiion. 

Symptoms. — Want of appetite; low spirits; pains 
and fulness in the stomach; belching; a sour water 
rising in tlie muuth; heartburn; the bowels are ir- 
regular and generally costive; weakness and ema- 
ciation; pulse small and slow; pain in the head; 
skin dry; gi'eat uneasiness after eating. 

Causes. — All those which induce debility; ex- 
cessive indulgence in the pleasures of the table, or 
intemperance in anyway; a sedentary life, or want 
of exercise; a diseased liver. 

Treatment.-— In eveiy case of indigestion, the 
first tiling the patient should do, is to abstain from 
whatever may have tended to produce it. The 
diet should consist of animal food that is light, 
nourishing-, and easily digested. Roasted mutton 
is perhaps preferable to any other. Countiy air 
and constant exercise on horseback are invaluable 
remedies in this disease, which, as it is generally 
occasioned by a departure from natural habi' s and 
employments, must be relieved by s. i-eturn to 
them. Flannel should be worn next the skin, and 
care taken to avoid cold or exposure to wet. A 
wine glass of the coldiafusion of hsirk and quassia, 
(rnade by placing one ounce of powJered bnrk and 
one of ground quassia ir. a close vessel, to wliich is 
added a quart of boiling water; to be kept simmer- 
ing near the fire until the whole is reduced to a 
pint,) with ten or twelve cirops of the elixir of vi- 
triol, should be regularly taken, three times a day, 
for months. I'he Loivels are to be kept open by 
some warm laxative as rhubarb, and the whole 
frame braced ov the dailv jse of the cold bath. 



The new preparation of b!>rk called sulphate Ot 
quinine, promises to be of much use in the com- 
plaint of wliich we are speaking. It must be taken 
to the amouiit of four grains a day, in divided 
doses, either dissolved in water, or in pills. Weak 
spirits and water, or a sir.gle glass of sound old 
Madeira, may be taken at dinner, but all malt 
liquors should be avoided. Much benefit has been 
found to result froin a long continued use of the 
wine of iron, (made by taking iron filings 4 oz. 
and pouring on it four pints of Madeira wine; let 
it stand for;: month, shaking it frequently,) a glass 
of which may be taken twice a day. If the com- 
plaint arise from a diseased liver, recourse must 
be had to tue plan laid down for its cure. 

Vomiting of blood. 

Symptoms. — A flow ot dais blood from the sto- 
mach, preceded by a sense of weight and oppres- 
sion in that organ. The blood is generally mixed 
with particles of food, &c. 

Distinguish it from spitting of blood, by its dark 
colour and Leing mixed with food. 

'j"reat?nd?it. — If the accompanying symptoms be 
inflammatory, bleed and use some cooling purge; 
if otherwise, try thirty drops of the mariated tinc- 
ture of iron in a glass of water, every hour till the 
hleedi';g ceases. If the cause be a diseased liver 
or tumour in the neighhourhood, treat it accord- 
ingly- 

Infia^matio?!. of the liver. 

Symptoms. — A dull pain in the right side below 
the rib, which is more sensible on pressure; an in- 
ability to lie on the left side; pain in the right 
shoulder; a sallow complexion. Such are the 
symptoms of an acute attack of this disease. There 
is another species of it called chronic, in which its 
approaches are so gradual that it is a difficult mat- 
ter ^0 determine its nature. It commences with all 
the symptoms of indigestion, and ends in jaundice 
or dropsy. 

Causes. — Long continued fever and ague; in- 
flammation; acrid bile; drunkenness, or a free use 
of spirituous liquors is a vei-y common cause; inju- 
ries from blows, &c. 

Distinguish it from pleurisy by the pam not 
being so severe; and by its extending to the top or 
the shoulder; by not being able to rest on the left 
side. 

Treatment. — Bleed the patient according to nia 
age, strength, and the violence of the pain, and if ne- 
cessai-y, apply a blister over the part, which must 
be kept open by dressingit with the savin ointment. 
The bowels should be opened by Epsom salts or 
calomel and jalap. It this does not abate the symp- 
toms in a few days, give a calomel pill of one 
grain every five hours, or rub a drachm of the 
strongest mercurial ointment into the side until the 
gums are found to be a little sore, when the fric 
tions or pills must be discontinued until the mouth 
is well, and then again resorted to as before. It 
an abscess points outwardly, apply bread and milk 
poultices to the tumour, omit the mercury, use 
wine, bark, and a generous diet. As soon as mat- 
ter is to be felt within it, open it at its lowest and 
most projecting part with the point of a sharp lan- 
cet, and let out its contents very slowly, taking 
care not to close the wound till this is completely 
effected. The nitric acid, in doses ot ten or twelve 
drops, three limes a day, gradually increased, and 
steadily persevered in, will sometimes produce a 
cure. The mercurial plan, however, is to be pre- 
ferred. 



Jaundice. 
Symptoms. — Languor; loathing of food; a bittei 



206 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



taste in the mouth; vomiting; the skin and eyes of 
a yellow colour; the stools clayey, and the urine 
giving a yellow tinge to rags dipped in it. There 
is a iluU pain in the right side, under the last rib, 
■which is increased by pressure. When the pain is 
sevf ve, there is fever; the pulse hard and full, &e. 
Causea. — An interruption to the regular passage 
of the bile, which is carried into the blood, bile 
being formed in too great quantities. The first is 
occasioned by gall-stones, a diseased liver, kc. 
Intemperance is a very common cause, hence tip- 
plers are more subject to it than others. 

TreaUnent. — If the pulse be fall and hard, the 
pain great, and other inflammatory symptoms be 
present, blood is to be taken away as tieely as the 
age and strength of the patient, and the violence of 
the pain, seems to demand. He should then be 
placed in a warm bath, and allowed to remain 
there some time; when removed to bed, a grain or 
two of opium may be given every few hours until the 
pain is relieved. Bladders, partly filled with warm 
water, or cloths wrung out of hot decoctions of 
lierbs, may also be applied to the seat of the pain, 
if the stomach be so irritable as not to retain any 
ihing on it, tiy I'oraentations and the effervescing 
mixture, or a blister to the part. As soon as some 
degree of ease is obtained by these means, purga- 
tives must be employed, and steadily persevered 
in; calomel and jalap or Epsora salts, in the ox'di- 
nary doses, answer veiy well. If, however, tnis 
cannot he done, and from the pain being acute at 
one particular spot, there is reasjn to suppose that 
a gall-stone is lodged there, the following remedy 
may be tried, of which one-fifth or a little less may 
be taken everj' morning, drinkingfreely of chicken 
broth, flaxseed tea, or barley-water after it. 

Ether, 3 drachms, spirits of turpentine, 2 drs. 
Mix them. 

Tlie diet ought to be vegetable, and should the 
disease have arisen from a neglected inflammation 
of the liver, it must be treated with mercury. 
(See inflammation of the liver.) If putrid symp- 
toms show themselves, meet them with the reme- 
dies already directed for such cases. Regular ex- 
ercise (on horseback, if possible) should never 
be neglected by persons subject to this disease. 

Ague cake. 
This is the vulgar appellation for an enlarged 
spleen, and expresses, with much brief meaning, 
tilt cause of the complaint, as it generally i-esults 
from ill-treated or obstinate interraittents. It is, 
however, not productive of much uneasiness, and 
frequently disappears of itself. The plan of treat- 
ment, if there is acute pain in the part, is to bleed, 
purge, and blister. If it remains enlarged after 
this, mercury may be resorted to, as directed in 
chronic inflamnoation of the liver. 



Inflammation of the intestines. 

Si/mpto?ns. — Sharp pain in the bowels, which 
shoots round the navel, and which is increased hj^ 
pressure, sudden loss of strength, vomiting of dark 
coloured, sometimes excrementitious matter, cos- 
tiveness, small, quick and hard pulse, high colour- 
ed urine. 

Dis-dnguish it from cholic, by the paia being in- 
creased by pressure, whereas in cholic it is reliev- 
ed by it. 

Treatment. — This is another of those formidable 
diseases tliat require the most actively reducing 
measures in the onset. From sixteen to twenty 
ounces of blood ought to be taken away at once, 
and the patient placed in a warm bath, after which 
a large blister should be applied to the belly. 
Emollient and laxative clysters may be injected 
from time to time, and if the vomiting and ir'^'tu- li 



bility of the stomach permit it to be retained, give 
a lar^e dose of castor oil. If this be rejecteit, try 
the oil mixture, Xo. 1, or fifteen ei-ains of calnmd 
made into smaM pills and taken at once. This 
however, (though one of great importance) is :\ 
secondary consideration To suUuue the inflam- 
mation by large and repeated bleedini;s, being tiie 
great object. To effect this; if in five or six houi's 
after the first bleeding, the pain, &c. be not re- 
lieved, take away ten or twelve ounces moi'e, and 
so on till that desirable object is obtained. Tlie 
diet should consist of small quantities of bat ley or 
rice water only. If in the latter stages of the dis- 
ease, vvlien the inflammation has somewhat subsid- 
ed, an obstinate costivetiess be found to resist all 
the usual remedies, dashing cold water over tlie 
belly will sometimes suece-cd. 

Remember that this complaint frequently runs 
its course in a day or two, and tliat, unless the lan- 
cet be fearlessly employed in the very beginning, 
mortification and death will ensue. If a strangu- 
lated rupture occasion the disease, the same, and 
if possible, still stronger reasons exist for bleed- 
ing; previously to any attemps at reduction. When 
certain quantities are mentioned, it is always to be 
understood, tliat they are applicable to robust men. 
Common sense will dictate the necessity of dimin 
ishing them, as the patient may fall more or less 
short of this descrii:tion. 

No. 1. Oil mixture. — The yolk of one egg, cas- 
tor oil, 2 ounces. Mix them well, and add laven- 
der compound, 2 drachms, sugar, 1 ounce, water 
5 ounces. Mix them well. The dose is a table- 
spoonful every hour till it operates, or half the 
quantity at once, the remainder in divided doses, 
if no passage is obtained after a space of foui 
hours. 

Cholera Morbus. 

Symptoms. — A violent vomiting and purging oi 
bile, preceded by a pain in tlie stomach and bow- 
els, quick, weak and fluttering pulse, heat, thirst, 
cold sweats, hiccups, and sometimes death in a lew 
hours. 

Treatment. — Wash out the stomach and bowels 
with copious draughts of chamomile tea, barley or 
chicken water, &c. and inject chstersof the same 
articles. Bladders or bottles containing hot water, 
should be applied to the feet, and flanuel cloths, 
wrung out of hot spirits, be laid over the stomach. 
When from the quantity of barley water, &c. that 
has been taken, it is supposed that the stomach is 
sufficiently cleared, give two grains of solid opium 
in a pill, and repeat it every few hours as the case 
may require. If the weakness be very great, and 
the spasms so alarming as to cause a fear of the 
immediate result, the quantity of opium may be 
increased to six, eight or ten grains at a dose for 
an adult. If the pill will not remain in the sto- 
mach, give eighty or ninety drops of laudanum, in 
a table-spoonful of thin starch, by clyster, and re- 
peat it as often as may be necessary. Fifty or sixty 
drops of laudanum in a small quantity of strong 
mint tea, or the effervescing draught, will frequent- 
ly succeed in allaying the irritation. If all tnese 
means fail, apply a blister to the stomach. When 
the violence of the attack is over, give castor oil or 
the oil mixture to carry off the bile that may re- 
main in the bowels. To complete the recovery, 
and to guard against a second attack, a complete 
casing of flannel is requisite, together with the use 
of vegetable bitters and tonics. Persons subject 
to this disease, should be cautious in their diet, 
and avoid exposure to moist cold air. 

Dysentery. 
Symptoms. — Fever, frequent small stools, ao- 



MEDICINE. 



207 



corapanied by gripmg, bearing down pains, the 
discharge consisting of pure blood or blood and 
matter, soraetimes resembling the shreds or wash- 
ings of raw flesh, a constant desire to go to stooi, 
vomiting. 

Distinguish it from a diarrhoia or lax, by the fe- 
ver, gi'i[)ing pains, and the constant desire to era- 
cuate the bowels, by the discharge itself being 
blood, or matter streaked witli blood, &c. 

Treatment. — As dysentery or bloody flux is al- 
most always in this country connected with con- 
siderable inflammation, it will be proper, ii> most 
cases, to bleed the patient at the beginni/.g of the 
attack; caution, however, is requisite in repeating 
the operation, as typhus symptoms suraetimes fol- 
low it. Whether it be thouglit prudent to bleed 
or not, repeated doses of castor oil, with clys'ers 
of the same, and the application of blisters to the 
belly, should never be omitted. If there is Liuch 
vomiting at the commencement, the stomach and 
bowels may be cleansed by barley or rice water 
taken b)^ the mouth and in clysters. As soon as 
this is effected, give a grain or two of solid opium; 
if it be rejected, 80 or 90 drops of laudanum in a 
table-spoonful of chicken broth or starch, by clys- 
ter. The stomach may also be bathed with a mix- 
ture of spirits of camphor and laudanum, and the 
irritation reduced by all the means recommended 
for the same symptoms in cholera-morbus. The 
diet should consist of gura arabic dissolved in milk, 
arrow root jelly, barley water, &c. Clysters of the 
same articles, with the addition of an ounce of 
olive oil, and twenty drops of laudanum, may be 
likewise injected several times in the day. To- 
wards the latter end of the complaint, opium and 
astringents are proper and indeed necessary, taking 
care to obviate costiveness by occasional doses of 
castor oil. I say the latter end of it, for in the 
commencement they would he hui'tful. In this 
stage of it also, if a severe tenesmus, (or constant 
desire to go to stool) remains, anodyne clysters will 
oe found useful, or, wliat is more effectual, a comile 
of grains of opium placed just within the tunda- 
me!«:t. The various astringents, which are proper 
for dysentery in its latter stages, are found below, 
and may be used with port wine and wuter, as a 
drink. 

Asirhigents. — Chalk mixture, 4 ounces, tincture 
of kino, 1 drachm, cinnamon water, 2 ounces, lau- 
danum, ^ drachm. The dose is a table-spoonful 
every two hours, or oftener if necessaiy. — Or, 

Tincture of catechu, 2 ounces. Take two tea- 
spoonsful in a little port wine every hour, or often- 
er if required. — Or, 

Extract of logwood, 20 grains, cinnamon water, 
2 ounces, tincture of kino, 1 drachm, sugar, 2 
ilrachms. To be taken at once. 



Diai^hcea or lax. 

Symptoms. — Repeated and large discharges of a 
tJiin excrementiiious matter by stool, attended with 
griping and a rumnling noise in the bowels. 

Treatment. — If the disease arises from cold, a 
few doses of the chalk mixture, No. I, will fre- 
quently put an end to it. It is, however, sometimes 
necessary to begin with an emetic of twenty grains 
of ipecacuanha, and then open the bowels Ly some 
mild pui-gative, as castor oil or rhubarb. Bathing 
the feet in warm water, and copious draughts of 
boneset tea, will be found of great benefit, if it 
originate from suppressed perspiration. For the 
same purpose also, from 6 to 10 grains of Dover's 
powder may be taken at night, being careful not to 
drink any thing for some time afterit. j''"»'orms 
are the cause, treat it as directed. WKsa '; is oc- 
casioned by mere weakness, a'>d in the ialter stages 
of it (proceed from what it may,) when every irri- 



tating matter is expelled, opium, combined with 
astringents, is necessary as in the similar period oi 
dysentery. The diet should consist, in the begin- 
ning, of rice, milk, sago, &c. and subsequently ol 
roasted chicken. Weak brandy and water, or nort 
wine and water, may acconfH)any the cliicken for a 
common drink. Persons subject to complaints 
of this kir.o, sliould defend their bowels from the 
action of cold, by a flannel shirt, the feet and othei 
parts of the body should also be kept warm. 

No. 1. Chalk mixture. — Prepared chalk, 2 drs. 
loaf sugar, 1 drachm, rub them well together in s 
mortar, and add, gradually, of mucilage of gum 
arabic, 1 ounce, water, 6 ounces, lavender com- 
pound, 2 drachms, laudanum, 30 drops. The dost 
is a table-spoonful every hour or oftener. Siiake 
the bottle well before pouring out the liquid, or the 
ahalk will be at the bottom. 



Colic. 

Symptoms. — Violent shooting pain that twisti 
round the navel, the skin of the belly drawn inlti 
balls, obstinate costiveness, soraetimes a vomiting 
of excrement. Distinguish it from inflammation ot • 

the bowels, by the pain being relieved by pressure " 

and froni other diseases by the twisting round the 
navel, the skin being drawn into balls, &c. 

Treatment. — Tlie first thing to be done in this 
disease is to give a large dose of laudanum in a lit- 
tle pepi)ermint water, to open a vein, and apply a 
mustard poultice below the navel. Fifty, sixty oi 
seventy drops of laudanum may be given at once, 
as the pain is more or less violent, and the dose be 
repeated in a half hour, or less time, if ease is not 
procured. The quantity of blood to be drawn will 
also depend on the same circumstance, taking into 
consideration the streng^n of the patient. In severe 
cases, 16 ounces may be about the mark. Duri- g 
this time, if the first doses of laudanum are found 
ineffectual in reducing the pain, and it is very 
great, eight}' or ninety drops may be given as a 
clyster in a gill of gruel, or warm water. One 
great rule in the treatment of colic, wiiere the pain 
is excessive, is, to continue the use of opium in 
such increased doses as will relieve it! — When 
this is obtained, castor oil by the mouth and clys- 
ter must he employed to open the bowels. 

In bilious colic when there is a vonT'ting of 
bile, the eftervescing draught- with thirt' h'ops of 
laudanum may be taken, to quiet the stjmach, to 
which, flannels wrung out of warm spirits may be 
applied. When the vomiting has abated, the oil 
mixture or the pills below should be taken until a 
free discharge is procured. If, notwithstanding 
our endeavours, the dl-ease proceeds to such an 
extent as to induce a vomiting of excrement, the to- 
bacco clyster must be tried, or an attempt be made 
to fill the intestines with warm water. This is done 
by forcibly injecting it in large quantities, at the 
same time the patient swallows as much as he is 
able. In this way, with a proper syringe, two gal- 
lons have been successfully introduced. In all casea 
of colic, when there is oDstinate costiveness, an ex- « 

amination ot the fundament should be made with 
the finger. If there are any hard, dry pieces of 
excrement there, they may be removed either by 
the finger or the handle of a spoon. 

Those who are subject to colic should avoid ^ 

fermented liquors, and as much as possible, ve- 
getable food; be always well clol^aed, and take care 
not to expose themselves to cold and wet. The 
bowels should never be allowed to remain costive. 

Purgative pills. — >0f calomel and jalap, each 10 
grains, opium, one grain and a half, tartar emetic, 
half a grain, oil of aniseed, one drop. Make the 
whole into a mais. To be taken at once, or divide 
it iu pills if the patient prefer it. 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



Painter^s colic. 

Symptoms. — Pain and weight in the belly, belch- 
ing, constant iltsire to go to stool, which is inef- 
fectual, quick contracted pulse, the belly becomes 
painful to the touch, and is drawn iiito knots, con- 
stant colic pains, the patient sits in a bent position, 
after a while palsy of part, or of the whole body. 

Treatment. — This disease is but too apt to end 
in palsy, leaving the hands and limbs contracted 
and nseless. In ever)' case of colic, whose symp- 
toms resemble the above, if the person has been 
exposed to lead in any of its shapes, all doubt on 
the subject vatiishes. 

If from the violence of tlie attack an inflamma- 
tion of the bowels be feared, bleed according to 
the age, &c. of the patient. Give laudanum in 
large doses, and rub the belly well with warm spi- 
rits, and place Iiim in a bath as hot as he can bear 
it. As soon as he is well dried, and has rested in 
bed a few minutes, take him up, and ("ash a bucket 
of cold waier over his belly and thighs, or mix 
an ounce of calcined magnesia in a pint of milk, 
and give a wine-glassful every half hour, until ease 
is obtained. If this, with castor oil by the moutli 
and in clysters, will not ])roduce a stool, apply a 
large blister to the belly. As soon as the symptoms 
are somewhat abated, castor oil or laxative clysters 
may oe I'esorted to for the purpose of keeping the 
body open; and to guard against a return, small 
doses of opium should be taken from time to lime. 
Bitters, the different preparations of iron, bark, 
he. are necessary to restore the sti'cngth of the 
system. A modern physician of great eminence, 
recommends, (in all cases, where the disease is 
clearly owing to lead) a salivation, by rubbing in, 
on the wrists, night and morning, one drachm of 
strong mercurial ointment. 



Worms. 

Symptoms. — Intolerable itching at the nose, 
sometimes at the fundament, disagreeable breath, 
grinding of the teeth and starting during sleep, 
hardness of the belly, gradual emaciation, colic, 
and sometimes convulsions. 

Treatment.— Th\s will vary according to the 
kind of worm that is to be destroyed. They are 
of three kinds: 

The ivhite thread -worm 

Reseir 'es a small piece of white thread, and is 
usually found near the fundament, at the lower end 
of the guts, where it, produces a contraction of the 
parts, and a most intolerable itching. Clysters of 
lime water will frequently bring whole nests of 
them away, and procure nistant relief. The tinc- 
ture of aloes, below, however, is by far the best 
remedy known, for not only this, but the round 
worm. 

Tincture of aloes. — Socotorine aloes, 1 ounce, 
liquorice, 2 ounces, coriander seeds, half an ounce, 
gin, 1 pint. Digest in a bottle for a week, shak- 
ing t'.ie bottle frequently, then r>train. The dose 
for a child is a tea-spooii"'l every morning, for an 
adult two table-spoonsful, with half tWe quantity 
of a strong decoction of the Carolina pink root. 
The round rvorm 

Occupies the small intestines and sometimes the 
stomach. It is of various lengths, from 3 to 8 or 
more inches. If the tincture of aloes fail to re- 
move it, tlie pink root may be taken in decoction, 
or in powder, in doses of 60 or 80 grains, to be fol- 
lowed after three or four days by ten or fifteen 
grains of calomel. Cowhage, in molasses or honey, 
with a dose of castor oil every tliird day, has been 
very highly extolled. In cases where all other 
means have failed, tobacco leaves, pcunded with vi- 
negar and applied to the belly, have produced the | 
desired eftect. I 



The tape worm 

Inhabits the whole of tlie interna! canal, and fre • 
quenly defies all our efforts to get him out of it. 
Large doses of spirits of turpentine, from one to 
two ounces, in barley water, have been advantage- 
ously employed for this purpose. If the spirits of 
turpentine be tried, large quantities of gruel oi 
barley water should be used with it, in order to 
prevent its irritating the stomach and kidneys. 

By whatever means these troublesome guests aro 
got rid of, the patient should be careful to strengthen 
his system and bowels, by a course of bark, bitters, 
wine, &5. and to use a great proportion of animal 
food in his diet. Repeated purging with calomel 
is, perhaps, as effectual a remedj for worms as we 
have, particularly if succeeded by the pink root tea. 

Inflammation of the kidneys. 

Symptoms. — Deep seated pain in the small of the 
hack, urine high-coloured and small in quantity, 
sometimes bloody, sickness at the stomach, vo- 
miting. 

Treatment. — This will depend upon the cause. 
If it proceed from gravel, the plan to be pursued 
will be detailed under that head. If it arise from 
any other, bleed the patient freely, repeat it in ten 
or twelve hours, if necessary, and put him into a 
warm bath. Twenty grains or more of the uva- 
uisi, with half a grain of opium three times a day, 
accompanied by small quantities of warm barley 
or rice water, is one of tlie most valuable remedies 
we are in possession of. The diet, during the at- 
tack, should consist of mucilaginous drinks only, 
which must be frequently taken, notwithstanding 
they may be rejected by vomiting. 

Gravel. 

Symptojns. — A fixed pain in the loins, numbness 
of the tliigh, constant vomiting, retraction of the 
testicle, urine small in quantity, voided with pain, 
and sometimes bloody. As the gravel passes from 
the kidney into the bladder, the pain is so acute as 
to occasion fainting, &;c. &c. 

I'reatment. — Bleed the patient freely, and put 
him i^ito a warm bath, where he should remain 
some time. Meanwhile an emollient and anodyne 
clyster should be got ready, which must be giver> 
to him as soon as he leaves it. Cloths wrung out of 
decoctions of herbs or warm spirits and water, 
should be applied to the part, and small quantities 
of warm gum arabic tea or barley water be taken 
frequently. A grain of opium, every two hours, 
will be found useful. Strong coffee, without sugar 
or cream, someames acts like a charm in soothing 
the pain: twenty drops of the spirits of turpentine, 
taken on a lump of sugar every half hour, is said, 
by high authority, to do the same. If the irrita- 
tion of the stomach is very great, the effervescing 
draught, with 30 or 40 drops of laudanum, may be 
tried. When the pain, &c. is somewhat abated, 
the bowels should be opened with castor oil. The 
uva-ursi, as before mentioned, is one of the most 
valuable remedies in all diseases of the kidneys 
that we have. Blisters in all such cases are never 
to be applied. Persons subject to this oistressing 
complaint, should be careful to avoid acids and 
fermented liquors of all kinds, including tlie red 
wines, beer, pickles, &e. For a common drink, 
soft water, or the seltzer and soda waters are to 
be preferred. When any threatening symptoms 
are perceived, recourse should be had to the uva- 
ursi, in small doses of ten or twelve gi-iias, with 
half a grain of opium three times a day, to je (nm- 
tinued for weeks. 



Inflammation of the bladder. 
Symptoms. — Pain and s-velling of the bladder 



MEDICINE. 



son 



the paJn increased by pressure, a frequent desire to 
make water, which either comes away in small 
tjuantities or is totally suppressed. 

'I'reotment. — Bleetl tlie patient freely, according 
to his age and strength, and put him in the warm 
bath, inject mucilaginous and laxative clysters, 
and pursue the exact [dan of treatment that is re- 
eonimended for the cause from which it may pro- 
ceed. See suppression of urine, Sec. 

Diffi-^ulty oj urine. 

Symptoms. — A frequent desire to make water, 
attended with pain, heat, and difficulty in doing so; 
a fulness in the bladder. 

Trcatinent. — If it arise from simple irritation 
by blisters, &e. plentiful draughts of warm liquids, 
as gum arable or barley water will be sutRcicnt to 
remove it. [f from any other cause, a bladder half 
filled with warm water, or cloths wrung out of a 
warm decoction of herbs, sliould be kept constantly 
applied over the parts, and mild clysters of thin 
starch be frequently injected. 



Suppression of iirine. 

Symptoms. — Fain and sw'elling of the bladder, 
violent and fruitless attempts to make water, at- 
tended with excruciating pain, &c. 

Treatment. — As a total suppression of urine is 
always attended with considerable danger, there 
should be no delay in endeavouring to remove it. 
Tlie first step is to bleed the patient, who should 
immediately after be placed in the warm bath. 
While he is tliere, a laxative and anodyne clyster 
must be got ready, which is to be given as soon as 
he leaves it, and frequently repeated. In the mean 
lime the warm fomentations, and bladder of hot 
ivater must be kept applied, and the mixture below 
toe taken every three or four hours. If there be any 
difficulty in procuring it, twenty drops of laudanum 
m a little warm barley or rice water, or a decoc- 
tion of the dandelion, will answer in stead. Warm 
sweet oil or milk and water may be injected up the 
urethra, and 6 or 8 grains of camphor in a little 
milk be taken every hour. 

If no relief is obtained by these means, apply 
snow or ice to Uie bladder, or make the patient 
stand on a cold brick, or stone pavement, and dash 
cold waler over his thighs, and if tliis fail, try the 
tobacco clyster, which sometimes succeeds after 
every thing else has been resorted to in vain. If a 
catheter can be procured, try to pass it into the 
bladder wliile in the bath. If the patient himself 
cannot do it, let a handy friend attempt it; if foiled 
in one position, try another, success is of the ut- 
most importance, for thare is nothing but an ope- 
ration, in the event of its not being obtained, that 
can save life. 

In every case of suppression of urine, the order 
of remedies tlien are, blood-letting, the warm bath, 
laxatives and anodyne clysters, fomentations, or 
bladders half filled with warm water over the lower 
belly, camphor and milk every hour, or every three 
hours, passing the catheter, dasliing cold water 
over the tiiighs and legs, or applying snow or ice 
to the bladder, and lastly, the tobacco clyster. 

Mixture. — Mucilage of gum arable, 1^ ounce, 
olive oil, 2 drachms. Rub them well together, and 
add ether, 1 drachm, laudanum, 30 drops. 

Incontinency of urine. 
Symptoms. — An involuntary dribbling or flow of 
urine. 

Treatme^it. — If it arises from a relaxation or 
weakness of the parts, use the cold bath daily, ap- 
ply blisters between the fundament am' the bag, 
*nd have recourse to bark aud the different tonics. 
fi B 



as iron, &c. recommended in indigestion. Twenty 
or tliirty grains of the uva ursi, twice or three 
times a day, wilii half a pint of lime water after 
each dose, may also be tried. If the disease is oc- 
casioned by a palsy of the parts, the tincture of 
Spanish flies may be of service. If a stone in the 
blailder is the cause, ajjply to a surgeon to cut it 
out. In the mean time, some kind of vessel should 
be attached to the yard, to receive the urine, in oi^ 
der to prevent it from excoriating the parts. 

Stone in the bladder. 

Symptoms. — A ft-equent desire to make water, 
which comes away in' small quantities at a time, 
and is often suddenly interrupted, the last drops or 
it occasioning pain in the head of the yard, riding 
over a rough road, or any irregular motion or jolt- 
ing, causes excruciating pain and bloody urine, ac- 
companied with a constai»t desire to go to stool, 
itching of the fundament, a nunr^bness in tlie thighs, 
iicc, retraction or drawing up c tne testicle. 

Treatment. — Cutting out the stone is the only 
remedy. 

Diabetes, or an i mm. der ate Jlow of urine. 

Symptoms. — Frequent discharges of large quan- 
tities of urin3, which is sometimes of a sweet taste, 
skin dry, bowels costive, appetite voracious, weak- 
ness, and gradual emaciation of the whole body. 

Treatment. — Tlie principal remedy for the cure 
of this disease, consists in confining the patient to 
a diet composed exclusively of animal food. Blis- 
ters may, also, be applied over the kidneys, and 
kept open with the savin ointment. The prescrip- 
tion below has proved eminently successful. The 
carbonate of ammonia, in doses of II or 12 grains 
three times a day, is strongly recommended, upon, 
high authority. In addi''on to these, opium in li- 
beral doses, exercise on horseback, the flesh-brush, 
and flannel next the skin, are not to be neglected. 
The bowels should be keyt open ty rhubarb. 

Prescription. — Peruvian bark, uva ursi, of each 
20 grains, opium ^ jrain. Make a powder, to be 
taken thi-ee times a day with lime water. 

Dropsy of the belly. 

Symptoms. — A swelling of tlie belly, from wa- 
ter contained in it, preceded by a diminution of 
urine, dry skin, and oppression at the breast. 

Treatment. — One of the most valuable remedies 
for dripsy is found in the elaterium, one-fourth of 
a grain of which is a dose. As it is a most active 
article, it is proper to begin with one-sixteentli i-f 
a prain daily, which may be cautiously increased to 
a iburth, or till it is found to exert its full powers by 
bringing away large watery stools. From an ounce 
to an ounce and a half of cream of tartar, dissolv- 
ed in water, and taken daily, has frequently suc- 
ceeded in removing the complaint. As objections 
are sometimes made to the quantity of this latter 
article, Jan oz. of it, with 1 or 2grs. of gamboge, 
eveiy other day, may be substituted for it. Six 
grains of calomel, with one or two of gamboge, 
taken twice or three times a week, have cured the 
disease. Bathing the feet before going to bed, and 
taking immediately after 20 grains of Dover's pow- 
der, by producing copious sweating, has produced 
the same effect. 

Dropsy is, notwithstanding, a difficult disease to 
cure. It must be attempted, however, by the use 
of S'lch articles as ws have mentioned, beginning 
with the first, ai.d if it fail, proceeding to the next 
and so on If the swelling increases to s-uch an 
extent as to be absolutely insupportable, send for a 
surgeon to draw off the water. At the decline of 
the disease, the stren>th must be supported and 

*2 



210 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK, 



restored by bark, wine, and the tonic plan recom- 
mended for indigestion. 

Tympany, 

Symptoms. — The symptoms of tympany, or a 
collection of air either in the intestines themselves 
or in the cavity of the belly, are more or less gra- 
dual ia their approach. When the disease lies 
within the intestines, it commences with wind in 
the stomach and bovi'els, which keeps up a con- 
stant rumbling, belching, &e., colic, costiveness, 
diminution of urine, want of appetite, &c. Wh' n 
jt is in the cavity of the belly, and outside tlie u\- 
testines, the swelling is much greater, and very 
elastic, when it is struck, giving a hollow sound 
like a drum; there is no belching, &e. 

Treatment. — If the complaint is within the in- 
testines, keep the nozzle of a clyster-pipe up the 
fundament, to permit the wind to pass through it, 
in order to diminish the pressure on the bowels. 
Warm mint tea, ginger, horse-radish, ether, Cay- 
enne pepper, spices and essential oils, with laxa- 
tive medicines and clysters, should be freely used, 
with a moderately tight broad bandage round the 
belly. If these means do not answer the end, warm 
and active purges mast be resorted to, such as the 
compound tincture of senna or jalap. If no relief 
is obtained, and the costiveness continues obstinate, 
apply pounded ice to the belly. Rubbing it with 
turpentine may, also, prove useful. It is very apt 
to terminate in death. 



GonoiTlioea, or dap. 

Symptoms. — ^A tingling sensation at the end of 
the yard, which swells, looks red and inflamed, 
followed by a discharge of matter that stains the 
linen, first of a whitish, tlien of a yellow or green 
colour, a scalding pain in making water, involun- 
tary and painful erections. 

Treatment. — There are two kinds of this affec- 
tion, the mild anri the virulent. The first is of so 
trivial a nature, that plentiful draughts of any 
soothing liquid, as barley water or flaxseed tea, 
with a low diet, are sufficient to remove it. The 
second produces effects more or less violent on dif- 
%rent persons, and occasionally resists for months 
■^very remedy that can be thought of. If there be 
'nuch pain and inflammation in the penis, apply a 
bread and milk poultice to it, take a dose of salts, 
and lose some blood. This is the more necessary 
if in consequence of the swelling of the foreskin it 
cannot be drawn back, or being back, cannot be 
drawn forward. In the mean time, take pretty 
large doses of the balsam copaiva, daily. A very 
low diet should be adhered to, and the patient re- 
main perfectly quiet. 

A painful incurvation of the yard, called a chor- 
dee, may be relieved by dipping it into cold water, 
or surrounding it with cloths soaked in laudanum. 
To prevent it, take 50 or 60 drops of the latter ar- 
ticle on going to bed. 

If in consequence of violent exercise, or strong 
injections, the testicles swell, confine the patient 
on his back, bleed and purge him. Pounded ice 
or snow, or cloths dipped in cold vinegar or water, 
•hould also be applied to the parts, and a very low 
diet strictly observed. If, from the same cause, 
the glands in the groin are enlarged, treat them in 
like manner. 



Gleet. 



Sljfmptoms. — ^The weeping of a thin glairy fluid, 
hke the white of an egg, from the penis, caused by 
a long continued clap. 

Treatment. — A gleet rs exceedingly difficult to 
get rid of, and frequently denes every effort that is 
loade for that purpose. It must be attempted, how- 



ever, by the daily use of the cold bath, and 30 
drops of the muriated tincture of iron, taken three 
times a day, for months, in a glass of the cold in- 
fusion of hark. The best advice to be given in 
this case is to apply at once to an intelligent sur- 
geon. 



Im>olu7itary emissions. 

Symptoms. — An involuntary emission of semen 
during sleep, inducing great emaciation and de- 
bility. 

Treatment. — Abstain from all sexual indulgence 
and lascivious ideas or books, sleep on a hard bed, 
use the cold bath daily, with a generoos and nour- 
ishing diet. Chalybeate water and all the different 
preparations of iron, with the cold infusion of bark 
and elixir of vitriol, as directed for indigestion, 
should be freely employed. 

Strictures. 

Symptoms. — A difliculty in passing water, which, 
instead of flowing in a full stream, either dribbles 
away, twists like a corkscrew, or splits and forks 
in two or three directions. They are occasioned 
by strong injections, long continued or ill treated 
clap. The cause, however, is not always to be 
satisfactorily ascertained. 

Treatment. — Procure several bougies of different 
sizes. Take the largest one, dip it in sweet oil, 
and pass it into the ui-ethra till it meets with the 
stricture, then make a mark on the bougie, so that 
when it is withdrawn, you can tell how far down 
the passage the obstruction exists, and having as- 
certained this, take the smallest one, well oiled, 
and endeavour to pass it an inch or two beyond the 
stricture. If this can be accomplished, let it i-e- 
main so a few minutes. This must be repeated 
every day, letting the instrument remain somewhat 
longer each time it is passed, and after a few days, 
using one a little larger, and so on progressively, 
until the largest one can be introduced. If this 
fails, apply to a surgeon, who will destroy it with 
caustic. 



Syphilis, or pox. 

Symptoms. — Chancres and buboes are among 
the first symptoms of this dreadful malady, which, 
if not checked, goes on to cause an ulcerated 
throat, nodes, a destruction of the bones and cartil- 
ages of the nose, and the palate. The voice is 
lost, the hair falls off, foul spreading ulcers show 
themselves all over the body, the stench of wliich 
is insupportable, and before he dies, the miserable 
victim to it becomes a loathsome mass of corrup- 
tion. 

A chancre at first resembles a pimple, with a 
little pit or depression containing matter, which 
soon becomes an ulcer, with an irregular thickened 
edge, covei-ed with a tough, ash-coloured matter, 
the basis of which is hard and surrounded by in- 
flammat'on. It is generally found on the foreskin 
or head j-^'he yard. 

A bubo is an enlargement of a gland in the 
groin, beginning ir a small hard lump, not bigger 
than abean,and inci^^;ing to the size of a hen's egp 

A node is a hard tumour formed on a bone. 

Treatment. — Apply at once to an intelligent 
physician. If this be impossiule, confine the pa- 
tient to an extraordinary low diet, and keep the 
parts clean. A strong decoction of guaiacum and 
sarsaparilla may be used daily, and all stimulating 
substances must be avoided. Eveiy one has some 
infallible receipt to cure this disorder; but in nine 
cases out of ten the remedy proves worse than the 
disease. As for the chancres, touch them with 
lunar caustic, and apply a little piece of rag to 
them, sme^'ed with ved precipitate ointment tt 



MEDICINE. 



211 



they are situated i>nder the foreskin, wV^ich is held 
over the head of the yard by a permanent phymosis, 
It (the foreskin) must be slit up. If there is a bubo, 
apply thirty leeches, and then cover it with several 
blisters, one after another. If this does not pre- 
vent its increasing, and the formation of matter is 
inevitable, apply poultices to it, and as soon as a 
fluctuation can be felt, let out its contents by seve- 
lal small punctures through the skin with a sharp 
lancet. To assist in the evacuation, press a soft 
sponge gently on the tumour. 



Cancer of the yard. 

Symptoms. — A small tumour, like a wart, upon 
the head of the yard or foreskin, followed by in- 
flammation and ulceration, which discharges a thin 
disagreeable fluid; after a time, a cancerous fungus 
is produced, attended by a most intolerable burn- 
ing and darting pain. 

Treatment. — Apply at once to a surgeon, who 
will cut it out — death is the only alternative. 

Venereal -warts. 
Crops of these animal mushrooms sometimes 
spring up round the head of the yard, or ou the 
foreskin. If flat, they may be destroyed by caus- 
tic, if mounted on a stem or foot-stalli, by tying a 
piece of thread tightly round it. 

Mercurial disease. 

This is a complaint whose symptoms nearly re- 
semble the secondary ones of pox, consisting of 
blotches on the skin, pains at night, ulcers in the 
mouth, &c. &c. Owing to the liberal use of calo- 
mel, it is now a very common disease, which is 
frequently confounded, (even by medical men) 
with genuine syjjhilis. 

Treatment. — Abandon every mercurial prepara- 
tion, use the decoction of guaiacum and sarsaparilla, 
the warm bath, and a mild nourishing diet. If 
poasible, remove lo a healthy situation in the coun- 
try. It is also necessary to take an occasionr.1 pur- 
gative of the flowers of sulpliur or of rhubarb. 

Dropsy of tlie bag. 

Symptoms. — A collection of water, which is first 
perceived at the bottom of the bag, increasing in 
size as it advances upwards, and forming a tumour 
of the shape of a pear. If examined as directed 
for dropsy of the belly, the wavy motion may be 
felt, and if a candle be placed behind it, it becomes 
partly transparent. 

Treatment. — The only certain care is an opera- 
tion, for which, as there is no pressing danger, 
apply to a surgeon. There are three species of 
this dropsy, in oue of which the water is contained 
within the lining of the bag; another, within the 
covering of the spermatic cord, and the third, in 
'he cellular membrane of the bag. The first we 
have mentioned; the second occurs most frequently 
m children, it sometimes, however, is found in 
adults, and very much resembles a rupture. The 
treatment is the same as in the first. The third 
may be distinguished by a doughy feel and irregu- 
lar shape. It is to be cured by small punctures 
with the point of a lancet, to let out the water, and 
by suspending the testicle. 

Enlarged spermatic vein. 

Symptoms. — A hard knotty and irregular swel- 
ling of the ve>n, which sometimes increases to a 
large size. When lying down, the swelling di- 
minishes, -which distinguishes it from a dropsy of 
the parts. 

Treatment. — Suspend the testicles, or keep the 
patient on his back; apply lotions of lead water to 
the parts; the cold batL 



Cancer of the testicle. 

Symptoms.— The testicle is enlarged, hardened 
craggy and imequal in its surface, painful on be- 
mg handled, with irregular pains shooling up the 
groin, into the back, without any previous inflam- 
mation, di!?ease, or external violence. 

Treatment. — Apply immediately to a surgeon- 
Castration, and that at an early stale of the dis- 
ease, is the only remedy that can save life. Be 
careful, however, to distinguish it from sirapte 
swelling of the testicle by inflammation, blows, &c. 
Which see. 



Impotency. 

This IS of three kinds. The first arises from an 
original defect in the organs of generation. The 
second, from local debility of the parts, brought 
on by excessive venery, onanism, or some preced- 
ing disease, while the third originates from fear, 
excess of passion, or want of confidence at the mo- 
ment of coition. 

The first is incurable. The second must be treat- 
ed by the general principles and remedies point- 
ed out for restoring the strength of the system, 
consisting of the cold bath, preparations of iron, 
bark, elixir of vitriol, generous diet, exercise, and 
by steadily avoiding the causes which may have 
produced it. The remedies for the third must be 
sought for in calming excessive agitation, and ac- 
quiring, by habits of intimacv, that confidence they 
are sure to produce. 

Gout. 

Symptoms. — Pain in the small joints, generally 
in the ball of the great toe, the parts swollen and 
red, the attack coming on in the night. Such are 
the striking sym'ptoms of this disease, and general- 
ly the first that are noticed. It is occasionally, 
however, preceded by all those attendant on indi- 
gestion, in the advanced stages chalky lumps are 
formed in the joints. 

Treatment. — If the patient be young, vigorous, 
having the disease for the first time, bleed and 
purge him, confine him to a low diet, and treat it 
exactly as an inflammaiion arising from any other 
cause. To procure sweating, Dover's powder may 
be taken on going to bed. As soon as the inflam- 
mation, by these means, is reduced, use the cold 
bath, and take strong exercise on foot, daily, — 
avoid high seasoned lood, feather beds, wine, acids 
and fermented liquors, for the remainder of your 
life! Gout is the child of indolence and intem- 
perance, and to avoid it, the above means must be 
employed, and steadily persevered in. 

If, however, the patient is old or infirm, and 
subject to regular fits of it, he must not be handled 
"0 roughly. The most perfect rest should be ob- 
served, and the parts lightly covered with fleecy 
hosiery, and flannel cloths wetted with the lotion 
below, made milk-warm. The bowels should be 
opened with some warm laxative. In a regular fit 
ot the gout, this is all that can be done. The de • 
gree of warmth that is applied to the part, must be 
regulated by the feelings of the patient, who, if 
woak, may use a nourishing diet, if strong, a mofe 
abstemious one. 

If from any cause, the disease leaves the extre- 
mities and flies to the stomach, apply mustard 
poultices and blisters to the soles of the feet and 
ankles, give large doses of ether and laudanum, 
hot wine, brandy, &s; and endeavour by all such 
means (including the hot bath) to send it back 
again. 

If the head be the part it is transfen-ed to, and 
apoplexy is produced by it, take away 15 or 2C 
ounces of blood immediately, and give active puiv- 
gatives, as 10 or 1 5 grains of calomel, followed by 



212 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



senna tea or Epsom salts. If, in a few hours, the 
patient is not relieved, the head continuing confus- 
ed and painful, and the pulse full and throbbing, 
bleed him again to the amount of 10 or 12 ounces, 
and apply cold vinegar and water constantly to the 
part. 

Gout lotion. — Alcohol, 3 ounces, camphor mix- 
ture, 9 ounces, render the whole mills-warm by 
adding a sufficient quantity of boiling water. 



Injfammatory rheumatism. 

Symptoms. — Pain, swelling and inflammation in 
some "ne (or several) of the larger joints. The 
pain shifting from one part to another, all the 
symptoms of fever, pulse full and hard, tongue 
white, bovifels costive, and urine high-coloured. 

Treatment. — Bleed the patient freely, or until 
the pulse is sensibly affecteii by it, and purge him_ 
with salts and senna. The Dover's powder should 
be taken to procure sweating, and a very low diet 
be strictly observed. If tiie pain continue severe, 
and the blood already drawn shows a yellow or 
bufly coat, bleed again and again. Tlie inflamma- 
tion must be reduced, and we are not to lay aside 
the lancet till that is done. In severe cases I have 
known it necessary to bleed twice a day, for four 
or five days in succession. Active purging with 
salts and senna must not be neglected. When the 
disease is overcome, if in consequence of the bleed- 
ing, &c. the patient is left very low and weak, 
wrap him up in blankets, give him warm, nourish- 
ing food, wine, &c. &c. 



Chronic rheumatism. 

Symptoms. — A chronic rheumatism is nothing 
more than one of long standing'. It is uiiaccom- 
panied by fever, and makes its .attacks on every 
change of weather, on getting wet, &c. &c. It is 
frequently caused by inflammatory rheumatism, 
and sometimes seems to exist as a primary affec- 
tion. 

Treatment. — I have found no one plan of treat- 
ment in this species of llie disease, so effectual as 
the following: purge with senna and salts, every 
other day, rub the parts well with the vohaile lini- 
ment, and use the Cayenne pepper, and mus'.iu'l 
at dinner, in large quantities, and on going to bed 
30 drops of laudanum, with a tea-spoonful of the 
tincture of guaiacum. It is to be recollected, that 
this is applicable only to clironic cases; if there is 
fever, &c. it will do much damage. Should there 
be any cause to suspect that a venere.al taint is con- 
nected with it, have recourse to the decoction of 
guaiacum and sarsaparilla. A large blister fre- 
quently relieves the whole of the symptoms in the 
course of a night. The best safeguard against the 
complaint is the use of flannel next the skin, win- 
ter and summer. 



Hip-joint disease. 

Symptoms. — ^Excruciating pain in the hip-joint 
and knee, the leg becomes first longer, then short- 
er than its fellow. When lying down tlie foot rolls 
outwards, the buttocks appearing flatter than usual, 
lameness, after a while abscesses in various parts 
of the tliigh, hectic feVer, kc. 

Treatment.- Apply blisters to the part, and if 
there be much inflammation, bleed, make a caus- 
tic issue in the little hollow at the top and out- 
cutside of the thigh, and use all the remedies di- 
rected for scrofuLa. Long continued purging with 
jalap and cream of tartar (every other day) should 
never be neglected. The diet shmdd be vegeta- 
ble, and the limb kept at rest. When matter is 
firmed, bark, wine, and a generous diet must be i 
employed. It mostly proves incurable. 



Dropsy of the knee joint. 

Symptoms. — riie joint swell:, the skin remain- 
ing of a natural colour. By placing tlie hand on 
one side of it, and striking it gently on the other, 
the wavy or fluctuating motion is perceptible, stea- 
dy pressure on one side will raise the other above 
its natural level. 

Treatment. — Keep a perpetual blister on the 
joint, or make a caustic issue below it, on tne in- 
side of the leg, cold water from the spout of a tea- 
kettle is a useful application. Camphorated mer- 
curial ointment to the knee, and mercury taken 
internally, have sometimes been of service. 



White sxuelling. 

Symptoms. — ^Deeply seated pains in the knee, 
unattended at first by swelling, which at last comes 
on with increase of pain. x\fter a while the loint 
enlarges, matter is sometimes discharged, hestio 
fever follows, .and cuts oft the patient. 

Treatment. — If from scrofula, use the general 
remedies directed for that disease, and apply a 
blister to the part, which must be kept open by the 
savin ointment, for months: if from blows, apf ly 
the blister as before, bleed and purge freely, and 
act as directed i.i cases of similar accidents. If in 
spite of these precautions, the disease continues to 
advance, amputation is the only resource. 

Pieces of cartilage in the joints. 
Portions of cartilage are sometimes formed in 
the joints, where they act like any other foreign 
bndv of a similar texture. While in the hollows 
of Oie part, they give no uneasiness, but as they 
frequently slip in between the ends of the bones, 
causing excruciating pain, it is sometimes neces- 
sary to cut them out. For this purpose apply to a 
surgeon. As all openings into the cavities of the 
joints are attended with much danger, unless the 
pail) be insupportable, it is better to endure the 
inconvenience than to run the risk of the operation. 

Sc^ofnla, or king^s evil. 

Symptoms. — Hard and indolent swellings of the 
glands of the neck, that when ripe, instead of mat- 
te", discharge a wiiitish curd. It mostly occurs 
in persons of a fair complexion, blue eyes, and de- 
licate make. In bad cases, the joints swell with 
great pain, the limbs waste away, the ligaments 
and bones art destroyed, when i^^ctic fever soon 
relieves the balient from iiis miserj'. 

Treatment. — Sea-water is generally considered 
".hi: great remedy in scrofula. It is to be used 
daily as a bath, and a small portion of it taken in- 
ternally. Made milk -warm, it forms one of tue 
most excellent local applications that we have. 
When the swellings break, a very strong decoction 
of hemlock may be advantageously used for the 
same purpose. The diet should be mild and nou- 
rishing. Scrofula is seldom, if ever, cm ed. After 
a fair trial, therefore, of the waters of the ocean, 
recourse should be had to a.iy new remedy that 
may seem to promise relief. Fatal as this disease 
generally proves, it is due to humanity to state, 
that among the numerous remedies recommended 
for it, the panacea of Mv Swaim has proved the 
most successful. Be its composition what it may, 
it has succeeded more frequently than any othei 
plan of ti'eatment. 

mfamed glanus. 
Every gland in the body is subject to inflamma- 
tion. Whenever one of them is percei-ed to be 
in this slate, which may be known by the swelling 
and pain, measures should be taken to reduce it, 
fur fear of its proceeding to what is called scir- 



MEDICINE, 



213 



"^Ms, and finally to cancer. Leeches, blisters, and 
all the remedies directed for such purposes, should 
te actively em))loyed, among wliich, purging, 
Dleeding, and a low diet, must not be neglected. 

Scirrhus. 

Symptoms. — A hard tumour, unequal on its sur- 
face, and not very sensible, giving but little or no 
oain on being handled. 

'J'^^eatment .—Do not meddle with the tumour, 
but apply to a surgeon as soon as possible. 

Ca7icer. 

Symptoms. — A tumour, differing from the 
preceding one, by being surrounded with en- 
larged veins. It is, also, more pHinful, the skin 
being sometimes discoloured and puckered. The 
■whole tumour is particularly heavy, and at last 
breaks into a malignant ulcer or sore, whose 
edges are raised, ragged, uneven, and curl over 
like the leaves of a flower; white streaks or 
bands cross it from the centre to the circumference. 
Acute and darting pains accompany both this and i 
the preceding stage of the disease. 

Treatment. — Tiiere is but one i-emedy that can 
be depended on for the cure of this painful and inve- 
terate complaint, and even that should be resorted 
to early, in order to ensure success. All the diseased 
parts must be cut out. Arsenic, corrosive subli- 
mate, phosphate of iron, and a thousand other 
articles, have been recommended, both externally 
and internally, but without any effectual advantage. 
To relieve the pain, opium may be taken in large 
doses. A very low diet, (such as barely sufficient 
to suppoi-t life) of milk and vegetables, will pro- 
duce the same effect. Tlie sore should be defend- 
ed from the air, by some mild ointment. Pow- 
dered chalk, scraped carrots, fresh hemlock leaves, 
and powdered charcoal, may be used for the same 
purpose. 



Goitre, 

Symptoms. — A tumour in the forepart of the 
throat, seated in a gland close to the projection 
calkd " Adam's apple." 

Treatment. — Goitre is incurable. W hen taken 
at the very beginning of the complaint, however, 
and in young persons, it is said to have been dis- 
persed by a course of mercury, joined to frictions 
of the part, with strong mercurial ointment. As 
it seldom causes any inconvenience, and is always 
unattended by pain. It is not a matter of much eon- 
sequence. The inhabitants of the Alps consider it 
a mark of beauty, and there are some cantons 
where every man, woman, and child, is adorned 
with a tumour of iliis nature, of which they would 
feel very sorry to be deprived. The only remedy 
that has ever seemed to be of use is burnt sponge. 
It cannot be cut out, on account of the great num- 
ber of blood-vessels of which it is composed. 

Fainting, 

Causes. — Sudden and violent emotions of the 
mind; bleeding; diseases of the heart and its great 
vessels. 

Treatment. — Lay the person on his back, take 
off his cravat, then open the doors and windows, 
and sprinkle cold water in iiis face. Smelling 
calls may be held to his nose. 

,Mpople.Tcy. 
Symptoms. — Falling without sense or motion, 
profound sleep; face livid or flushed; eyes wide 
1 open or Imlf closed, .and immoveable; breathing 
1 low, labouring, and irregular. 
) Causes. — A rushing of blood to the head, ex- 

cessive fat in persons with a short ueck, gluttony, 



violent exercise, intense heat, anger, hearty meat 
suppers, blows on the head, intoxication, &c. &c. 

Treatment. — If the pulse remains full, the face 
flushed, ike. take away twenty ounces or moie of 
blood on the spot, remove the cravat, unbvtton 
the shirt collar, and place the patient in bed, wilh 
his head and shoulders a little elevated. The 
windows arid doors must be thrown open, and no 
more persons than are necessary, be allowed to 
remain in the room. The head is to be snaved and 
cupped, a blister applied to llie back ot the neck 
and the head, and mustard poultices to the feet. 
An active purgative should always be administered 
as soon as the patient is bled, and its operation 
assisted by repeated clysters. If the patient cannut 
swallow pills, try liquids, if neither, have recourse 
to a strong purgative clyster. If by these means, 
the breathing is not easier, and the pulse softer, 
bleed again and again. 

If, however, the patient is old and infirm, anil 
tbe attack has come on more gradually, if tne 
pulse is weak, and the face pale, bleed moderately, 
and give immediately a warm purgative, apply the 
blistei's, &c. If it arises from swallowicg vegeta- 
ble poisons, give an active emetic, as 30 grains of 
white vitriol, and act as directed in cases of simi- 
lar accidents. In this second kind of apoplexy, 
stimulants, as hartshorn to the nose, Sec. may be 
used; in the first, they are very injurious, and 
should never be employed. 

Stroke of the sun. 
This proceeds from exposure to the sun's rays, 
and exhibits the same symptoms as apoplexy, com- 
mencing with vert'go, loss of sight, ringing in the 
ears, 8tc. and must be treated by large and repeated 
bleedings, and in every other respect as directed 
for apople.xy 

Epilepsy. 
Symptoms. — A fit, in which the patient falls to 
the ground in a convulsion; the eyes are distortea 
and turned up, hands clenched, foaming at the 
mouth, convulsions, the whole ending in a dedp 
sleep. 

Treatment. — Keep the patient from hurting 
himself, by holding his hands, legs, and particu- 
larly his iiead, which he is apt to dash violently 
against the ground, or surrounding objects. A 
piece of soft wood should be placed between his 
teeth, to prevent his tongue from being bitten. 
This is, in general, ah that can be done during the 
fit. If, however, there are symptoms of great de- 
termination of blood to the head, bleeding should 
not be neglected. While vitriol, the misleto, car- 
bonate of iron, Sec. &c. have bec.i recommended 
and tried for the cure of this complaint, but in vain. 

The oxide of zinc may, however, be tried. It is 
taken in ])ills of a grain each, one three times a 
day, gradually increasing this dose to five at a time. 
To reap any benefit from this medicine, it is neces- 
sary to persevere in it for months. If it fails, 
steady and long continued purging should be re- 
sorted to. Large doses of spir'ts of turpentine 
are said to have afforded relief. The diet, in all 
cases, shculd be vegetable, and if symptoms of 
fulness of blood be present, it will be proper to 
bleed. Persor,8 subject to these fi's, should never 
be left alone, or ride on horseback, for obvious 
reasons. 



Palsy, 

Symbtoms. — A partial or complete loss of the 
powers of motion, and the sensibility of particular 
parts of the body; the pulse soft and slow. 

Treatment. — in a young and robust person, it 
will be proper to bleed freely, and give an active 



214 



UNIVERSAL. RECEIPT BOOK. 



purgatives. In old people, or where the powers of 
the body are much weakened, warm laxative medi- 
cines, with stimulating applications, as the flesh 
brush, blisters, mustard poultices, and rubbing the 
spine with the volatile liniment, form the best plan 
of treatment. If it afiect different parts of the 
body at once, horse-radish, mustard, and Cayenne 
pepper should be used liberally, as they are pre- 
pared for table. If a swelling or tumour be found 
on the biick bone, or any injury has been done to 
"it, which may have caused the disease, caustic 
issues must be placed on each side of it, and as 
near the injured part as possible. The diet should 
be light and nourishing. The warm bath must 
not be neglected. 

Tetanus, or cramp. 
There are several very long and very learned 
names affixed to this disease, as it may happen to 
attack one part of the body or another. When it is 
confined to the muscles of the neck and jaws, 
locked-jaw is the common and expressive term tor 
it. The affection, however, is always the same, 
requires similar treatment, and consists in an in- 
voluntary contraction and stiffening of a part of the 
muscles, the senses remaining perfect. 

Locked-jav). 

Symptoms. — A stiffness in the back of the neck, 
which renders it first painful, and at last impossi- 
ble to turn the head round; difficulty in swallow- 
ing; pain in the breast shooting to the back; the 
lower jaw becomes stiiT, and gradually closes. 

Treatment. — If the disease is supposed to arise 
from a wounded nerve, or from an injury done to 
tendinous parts, by a pointed instrument, enlarge 
the wound with a sharp lancet, or penknife, and 
pour laudanum or turpentine into it, as directed 
for similar accidents. Blood-letting to a great ex- 
tent, is often attended with the most happy results, 
and should never be omitted. From a robust man 
take 30 ounces. This being done, give 2 or 3 
grains of opium at once, and repeat it every two 
hours, increasing the dose according to the vio- 
lence of the symptoms and the effects i>roduced by 
It, without regarding the quantity that has been 
taken. Cases are on record, where 60 grains (a 
drachm) of solid opium have been taken at once, 
and with the happiest effect. This, however, is a 
large dose, and should never be ventured on, but 
under the most desperate and alarming circum- 
stances. Active purging with castor oil and senna 
tea, must not be omitted, and if the power of swal- 
lowing be lost, laudanum, kc. must be given in 
clysters. Drawing a tooth is generally recom- 
mended by physicians in those cases where the 
jaws are firmly closed, for the purpose of trans- 
mitting medicines and food to the stomach. This 
has always appeared to me as every way calculated 
to increase the evil. If no opening exists between 
the teeth, access cau always be obtained by clys- 
ters, and in this waj nourishment and remedies 
may be injected. It is always proper, however, 
when the disease is perceived to be coming on, to 
place two small pieces of soft wood between the 
grinders of the upper and lower jaw, one on each 
side, so tliat they may be kept asunder. 

Madeira wine, in doses of a wine glassful every 
hour, continued for several days, and combined 
with the internal use of mercury and the warm 
bath, has been found of great service. Cold water 
dashed freely over the patient, every two or three 
hours, may likewise be tried. After every affusion, 
he should be well wiped, and put into a warm bed, 
when a large dose of lauH-vnum in warm Madeira 
wine, should be given. The tobacco clyster has 
Bometimes succei'ded when every thing else hiS 



failed. During the relaxation wnnJn it occagions 
opium, wine, &c. must be freely administered. 
Blistering the whole length of the spine, and caus- 
tic issues on its sides, as nearly on a line with the 
parts affected as possible, are strongly recom- 
mended. 

Although a valuable addition to our means oi 
cure, the tobacco clyster is not to be employed 
lightly, or on common occasions. It should always 
be reserved to the last moment, never using it until 
every thing else has failed. The prostration of 
the system, and other alarming symptoms, it some- 
times causes, renders this caution necessary. 

Painful affection of the nerves of the face. 
This disease, also called tic-doloureux, neural- 
gia, &c. is of very rare occurrence. As it is, how- 
ever, sometimes met with, it is proper to notice it. 
Symptoms. — A very severe pain darting in par- 
ticular directions, not lasting more than a second, 
hut very rapidly repeated, and excited by the 
slightest touch; during the intervals there is no 
pain whatever. There is no inflammation or swel- 
ling of the cheek, as in tooth ache, nor does the 
pain seem so deeply seated. 

Treatment. — Blisters, leeches, mercurial oint- 
ment, opium, and Fowler's solution of arsenic, 
with many other remedies of the same class, have 
been all recommended and used for the cure of 
this most painful of all the affections to which the 
human body is subject. Where the pains are so 
excessive as not to be borne, two grains or two 
grains and a half of the extract of belladonna, may 
be taken every three hours. When the pain is 
somewhat relieved, this quantity must be diminish- 
ed. For a cure, apply to a skilful surgeon, who 
will divide the nerves. 

Angina pectoris. 

Symptoms.— ^\n acute pain at the lower end of 
the breast bone, shooting into the left arm; great 
difficulty of breathing; anxiety; palpitation of the 
heart; a feeling of suffocation. It usually comeson 
while ascending a hill, or going up stairs. 

Treatment. — During the fit, place the patient on 
his back and bleed him. If fainting, dash cold 
water in his face. Should this not rouse him 
in a few minutes, apply a blister to the chest. 
Strips of linen, moistened with the solution below, 
applied several times a day to the breast bone for 
a mouch, are said to have effected complete cures. 
They act by producing a crop of pimples, on the 
appearance of which the disease declines. 

Persons subject to this complaint, should avoid 
all fermentable food, and excess in eating or 
drinking, taking care to live quietly, and to keep 
the bowels open. Bleeding and purging, followed 
by opium, to lessen the spasm, with the warm 
bath, and a perpetual blister or plaster of the tartar 
emetic ointment to the chest, are perhaps the best 
remedies that can be employed. 

Tartar emetic, one drachm; spirits of camphor 
half an ounce; boiling water, one pint. Mix. 

Dance of St Vitus. 

Symptoms. — Irregular and convulsive motions ol 
the limbs and head, generally of the arm and leg 
of one side only. It varies, however, in different 
persons, and is frequently counterfeited by beg- 
gars. 

Treatment. — The daily use of the cold batli, 
with the Peruvian bark, has often succeeded in 
curing the complaint in young subjects. Inaddi- 
tion to these, any of the preparations of iron com- 
bined with larg^' (loses of musk, opium, camphor, 
&c. may be tried. Active and long continued 
purging sometimes prouuoes the happiest resulK. 



MEDICINE. 



215 



Scarlet fever. 

Symptoms. — Chills; heat; thirst; head ache; the 
skin is marked with large red or scarlet patches, 
which at last unite, disappearing in a kind of 
branny scurf; sore throat. 

Distinguish it from measles by the spots coming 
out on the second day of the fever. In measles 
they seldom appear until the fourth day. By their 
colour, wliich is that of a boiled lobster, whereas in 
measles it is of a dark red. 

Treatment. — An emetic (ipecacuanha) should be 
g;iven on the first appearance of the disease, to be 
followed by a dose of salts, or eight grains of calo- 
mel, with as many of rhubarb. 11 the pulse is full 
and strong, the head aches, and the heat great, 
draw blood, and dash cold water over the body 
very freely and frequently, 'I here is no disease in 
ivhich the advantages of cold affusion are more 
striking. In order to reap the full benefit of it, 
however, it must be freely employed, that is, as 
often as heat, &c. seem to require it, or eight or 
ten times in the twenty-four hours. The saline mix- 
ture, p. 199, is of great use. If there is any soreness 
of the throat, the gargles recommended for that 
complaint, should be used, and a mustard poultice 
be applied to the parts. If symptoms of putres- 
cency appear, have recourse to the plan recom- 
mend for putrid sore throat. As scarlet fever is 
undoubtedly contagious, the usual precautions 
sl)ould of course be adopted. 

Writers on this subject generally consider scar- 
let fever as consisting of three kinds, via. The sim- 
ple fever, the fever with sore throat, and the fever 
with putrid sore throat. The tieatment of the 
first should be like that of any other inflammatory 
fever; that of the second, has been detailed in 
speaking of inflammatory sore throat; and the last 
is precisely that of putrid sore throat. 



Erysipelas, or St Anthony^sjire. 

Symptoms. — Fever, delirium, vomiting, pulse 
strong or weak as the fever inclines to the inflam- 
matory or typlius kind, on the fourth day, some- 
times on the second or third, the skin in some one 
part becomes red and inflamed, which is soon ex- 
tended to others, the parts affected being swollen 
wi-il of a bright scarlet. If the face is attacked, it 
spreads itself on the Scalp, and the eyelids some- 
times swell so as to prevent the patient from see- 
ing; after a longer or shorter period, the eruption 
ends in small watery vesicles, or in branny scales. 
At this period, the fever sometimes pbates, at 
others, drowsiness or delirium comes on, which 
increases it, and destroys the patient by the ele- 
venth day. 

Treatment. — ^This disease is of two kinds. On^j 
of which is principally confined to the skin, while 
the other affects the whole system. If the accom- 
panying fever is inflammatory, bleeding will be 
proper, otherwise not. This operation is to be 
eautiously employed in erysipelas, as it sometimes 
runs into typhus. If, however, the patient is ro- 
bust, his head aches, and great marks of fulness 
and inflammation are evident, which is generally 
the case in this country, bleeding, purging with 
salts, and cooling drinks should be employee!, to 
which, also, ma)"^ be added, Dover's powders, bone- 
set tea, &c. to produce sweating. The room ^should 
be kept cool. If, on the contrary, the fever is a 
typlius, or unaccompanied by general inflamma- 
tion, and (as before observed) the patient is of a 
weak and irritable habit of body, bleeding should 
nevti be resorted to. Opium, wine, bark, elixir 
of vitriol, and decoctions of fhe snake root, as re- 
commendeil for typhus, are necessary in this case, 
to guard against mortification, which sometim*'* 
eaaoes. 



As local applications, bathing the parts with lau- 
danum or lead water, or dusting them with rye 
meal or wheat flour, are the best. Should the dis- 
ease evidently be confined to the skin, the applic:^ 
tion of a olister will sometimes put an end to it 
If abscesses form, large openings must be made U- 
let out the matter and dead parts. When the firs» 
or inflammatory kind prevails, the diet should be 
barley, sago, patiada, &c. with lemonade, tama. 
rind water, &c. for drink. And, on the contrary, 
when the second, or typhus form of it (especiaJly 
ii accompanied by putrid symptoms,) shows itself 
a more generous diet, with a moderate quantity of 
wine, &c. must be employed. 

It may not be useless again to observe, that in 
the United States, erysipelas, nine times out of 
ten, calls for reducing and cooling measures. 
Among the various articles which are employed ia 
this, as well as all inflammatory diseases, none 
ranks higher than lemonade, which should always 
(if possible) be made from the fresh fruit. When 
taken cold, and in liberal quantities, it is not only 
delicious to the palate of the patient, but tends 
powerfully to cure the complaint. 

JMercunal erysipelas. 

Symptoms. — Heat, redness and roughness, com- 
mencing either in the groin, bag, inside of the 
thigh, or bend of the arm, which slowly and gra- 
dually extend over the whole body, which becomes 
slightly swollen, is tender to the touch, and itches 
dreadfully. The roughness is occasioned by small 
vesicles or blisters containing a fluid, which at first 
cannot be seen without a glass, but if not disturb- 
ed, acquire, the size of a pin's head. When they 
are broken, the matter corrodes the skin where- 
ever it touches, so that at last, the patient is raw 
from head to foot. It sometimes occasions the loss 
of the hair in every part of the body. 

Treatment. — Omit all mercurial preparations, 
keep the bowels gently open with Epsom salts, use 
the warm bath frequently, take opium at night, 
and dust the parts with flour or starch. If symp- 
toms of putreseency appear meet them with bark, 
wine, &c. 



Measles. 

Symptoms. — ^Inflammatorj' fever, dry cough anA 
hoarseness, sneezing, watering of the e3'es, which 
itch, a running from the nose, great drowsiness. 
On the fourth day, small red points break out, first 
on the face, and then gradually over the body. 
They are in clusters, and on passing the hand over 
them, are found to be a little raised. On the fifth 
or sixth day the vivid red is changed to a brown, 
and the eruption- goes off. 

Distinguish it from small-pox and all other dis- 
eases, by the dry cough and hoarseness, by the ap- 
pearances of the eyes, which are red, swollen, and 
loaded with tears. 

Treat7nent. — The patient must be confined to a 
low diet, and kept in bed, with as much covering 
(but no more) as may be agreeab/e to his feelings. 
The room should be cool, and if there is much 
fever and pain in the head, bleeding is necessary. 
Should there be pain and oppression at the breast, 
apply a blister. The bowels may be opened by 
salts. The mild form of measles ought to oe •reat- 
ed like any other inflammatoiy complaint, taking 
care, however, not to repel the eruption by cold. 
If this happens, place the patient in a warm bath, 
give him warm wine, &c. internally, and apply 
mustard poultices and blisters to the feet and 
ankles. 

There is another and more dangerous kind ot 
tb/ss disease, which m&y be known by the fever be- 
ing- a typhus, and by all the symptoms showing a 



2W 



UNIVEKSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



pu*rid tendency. The moment this is perceived, 
have recourse to bark, wine, muriatic acid, &c. See. 
as directed in putiid fever. 



Chicken-pox. 

Syn-ptoms. — Fever, inability to sleep, pain in 
differei.t parts of the body, a crop of small pimples 
or poii;t» on the hack, whicli, by the second day, 
are clian.vd into little blisters, which are ripe on 
the third, tmd disappear before the fifth day, with- 
out forming true pus or matter, and leaving no 
marks or pits behinJ them. 

Distinguish it from small-pox, by the eruption 
coming out on the back, by the mildness of the 
fever, by the fluid contained in the vesicles or 
blisters not being true pus, and b)' the whole fall- 
ing off in scales on the fiftii day. 

Ti^eatment. — Confine the patient to his bed, keep 
him cool and quiet, and give him a dose of salts. 
This is all that is necessary. 



C<ru)-pox. 

Symptoms. — A pimple at the spot where the 
matter was inserted, which gi-adually undergoes 
certain regular changes, that characterize the com- 
plaint. 

Changes of gentdiie coiv-pox. — On the second 
day, or sooner, from the time of the oper.^tion, 
a small speck of inflammation is to be peroeiv- 
ed, which, on the fourth day, is a pimple, sur- 
rounded by a circle of inflammation. On the fifth, 
this pimpie changes to a vesicle containing a thin 
fluid. On the sixth, this vesicle is more perfect, 
its margin formmg a regular circle; it is also a lit- 
tle flattened on the top, the centre of which is of a 
dark colour. On the eighth or ninth day, slight 
chills, flushes of heat, &c. are sometimes felt, ac- 
companied by swelling of the pustule, and pains 
shooting up into the arm pit, the glands or kernels 
of which occasionally swell. 

On the tenth or eleventh day, the pustule is sur- 
rounded by a circular, vivid, inflammatory blush 
ttiat is very beautiful. Tliis is regarded as a de- 
cisive proof of the presence of the genuine cow- 
pox. On the eleventh day, the centre of the pus- 
tule begins to gi-ow of a dark colour, which grad- 
ually increases ^o a brown or mahogany one by ihe 
end of the second week, when it begins to leave 
the skin, from which it is finally separated. 

Treatment. — If the pain, inflammation and swel- 
ling, are excessive, reduce them by cold applica- 
tions, a dose of salts, low diet, and rest. 

Small-pox. 

Symptoms. — Inflammatory fever, drowsiness, 
pain in the pit of the stomach, increased by pres- 
sure, pain in the back, vomiting, on the third day 
the eruption breaks out on the face, neck and 
breast, in little red points that look like flea-bites, 
and which gradually appear over the whole body. 
On the fifth day, little round vesicles, filled with a 
transparent fluid, appear on the top of each pim- 
ple. Tlie eruptive fever now declines. On the 
ninth day the pustules are pei'fectly formed, being 
round and filled with a thick yellow matter, the 
head and face also swelling considerably. On the 
eleventh day, the matter in the pustules is of a 
dark yellow colour, the head grows less, while the 
feet and hands begin to swell. The secondary fe- 
ver now makes its appearance. The pustules 
break and dry up in scabs and crusts, which at last 
fall oft", leaving pits, which sufliciently mark the 
cause. 

Such ai'e the svmptoms of the distinct or mild 
small-pox, but it iiequentl)- assumes a more terri- 
ole shape, in what is called the confiuent. In the 
latter, sili the symptoms are more violent from the 



beginning. The fever is a typhus, there is deJ'- 
rium, preceded by great anxiety, heat, thirst, vo- 
miting, &CC. The eruption is irregular, •Bomingout 
on the second day in patclies, the veicles of wliich 
are flatted in, neither does the matter they contain, 
turn to a yellow, but to a brown colour. Instead 
of th° fever going off" on the appearance of the 
eruption, it is increased after the fiflli day, and 
continues throughout the complaint. The face 
swells in a frightful manner, so as to close the 
eyes; sometimes putrid symptoms prevail from the 
commervsement. 

Treatment. — Place the patient in a cool airy 
room, and let him be but liglitly covered with bed 
clothes. Purge him every other day with salts, 
and gi%e him thirty drops of laudanum every night. 
The diet sliould consist of panada, arrow root, &c. 
and his drink consist of lemonade or water. If 
from any cause the eruption strikes in, put him 
into the warm bath, give a little wa.m wine whey, 
or the wine alone, and apply blisters to tlie feet. 
Obstinate vomiting is lo be quieted by the effer- 
vescing draught, with the addition of thirty drops 
of laudanum. 

In the confluent small-pox, the treatment must 
be varied as it inclines more or less to the inflam- 
matory or putrid type. If it inclines to the first, 
act as directed for the distinct kind, if to the last, 
employ all those m^ians directed in putrid fever. 
If the eyes are much affected, it will be necessary 
to bathe them frequently with warm milk, and to 
smear the lids with some simple ointment. 

Itch. 

Symptoms. — An eruption of small pimples be- 
tween the fingers, on the wrists, and over the 
whole body, which form matter, and are attended 
witli an intolerable itching. 

Treatinent. — There are several varieties of this 
troublesome complaint, as the rank, watery, pocky, 
scorbutic, Sec. A vei^ bad kind of it is conti-acted 
by dogs that have the. mange. The remedy is sul- 
phur. It should be used internally with cream of 
tartar, so as to purge freely, and at the same time 
be applied externally, in the form of an ointment. 
Equal portions of white vitriol, flour of sulphur, 
and laurel berries, made into a ihin liniment with 
olive oil, is highly recommended as a local appli- 
cation. The following piactice is said to be eftec- 
tual: Take of flour of sulphur two ounces, and 
mix it well with two drachms of nitre; throw the 
mixture into a warming-pan containing live coals, 
and pass the pan between the sheets in the usual 
manner. The patient, stripped to his skin, now 
gets into bed (taking care not to let the fumes es- 
cape) when the clothes should he tucked in all 
round him. Repeat the , process ten or twelve 
times. The diet in all cases should be very low. 

Herpes. 

Symptoms. — Broad itchy spots of a reddish or 
white colour, breaking out in different places, 
which at last run into each other, forming exten- 
sive ulcers, after a time they become covered with 
scales, which fall oft', leaving the surface below 
red; while the disease heals in one part, it breaks 
out in another. 

Treatment. — The ointment of the oxide ot zinc, 
is a very common application. Washing the par s 
with a solution of corrosive sublimate in water, one 
grain to the ounce, is, however, to be preferred. 
The citrine ointment may also he tried, if these 
fail, apply a strong solution of blue vitriol t'- the 
ulcers, and take a p-ain of calomel morning and 
evening. The decoction of sarsaparilla and guaia- 
cum may be used with them. If the disease resists 
the mercury, try Fowler's solution of arseiiic. La 



MEDICINE. 



21' 



doses of five, drops three times a day, to be cau- 
tiously increased as directed for intermitting fe- 
vers. Tiie V arm bath should never be neglected 
in cutaneous complaints. 

Scald head. 

Syjnptoms. — Inflammation of tlie skin of tlie 
nead, which ends in a scabby eruption that extends 
over the whole scalp. 

CflKses.— Waul of cleanliness, putting on the 
hat, usi:ig tlie comb, or sleeping in the bed of a 
person who has it. 

'J'reutmeiit. — Siiave the head close, w^tsh it well 
with warm soap and water, and cover it thickly 
with fresh powdered charcoal. One or two of he 
pills below should be taken every night, on going 
to bed. The bowels must be kept open by magnesia 
or Epsom salts. If this fiils, t^'y the citrine or tar 
ointment to the ])arts, with a liberal use of the 
compound decoction of sarsaparilla. Tlie diet 
sliould be wholesome and nourishing, avoiding spi- 
rituous liquors and salted meats. The wai'm bath 
should ni)t be neglected. 

Pills for scald head. — Calomel half a drachm, 
tartar emetic 15 grains, opium half a drachm. Rub 
it into a smooth paste with simple syrup, and di- 
vide it into 60 pills. 

Hmg -worm. 

iSymptoms. — An eruption running in curved 
lines, generally in a circle, that itches when rubbed 
or wtien the body is heated. 

Treatment. — Into one ounce of water, throw- 
more blue vitriol than it will dissolve, so as to form 
what is tectiuically called a saturated solution. 
Touching the ulcerated parts with this liquid seve- 
ral times through the day, will alone frequently 
cure It. If this fails, apply the citrine or tar oint- 
ments. In very obstinate cases, recourse may be 
had to the pills for scald head, or to the usual 
doses of Fowler's solution. If it affects the head, 
shave it. In this, as well as all other diseases of 
the skin, the greatest cleanliness is necessary. 

.ATettle-rash. 

Symptoms. — An eruption similar to that caused 
by the stinging of nettles, whence its name. Oii 
rubbing the skin which itches, the eruption will 
suddeidy appear, remain for a moment, and then 
vanish, breaking out in some other spot. The 
parts affected are swelled, at one time presenting 
the apjiearance of welts, a from the sti'oke of a 
whip-lush, and at another, that of white solid 
bumps. 

Treatment. — A few doses of Epsom salts, and a 
little attention to the diet, which should be mild, 
are generally sufficient to remove it. If it proceed 
trom eating poisonous fish, or any unwholesome 
food, take an emetic, 8ic. as directed in such cases. 

blotched face. 

Symptoms.— An eruption of hard, distinct tu- 
bercles or pimples, generally appearing on the face, 
but sometimes on the neck, breast and shoulders. 

Treatment. — There are a great many varieties 
of this affection, sone of whicli have btcn separate- 
ly treated of by Willan and othtr writers on dis- 
eases of the skin, to whom I would refer any ono 
who is particularly interested therein. Notwith- 
standing all that has been said on the subject, there 
is no disease more ilifHcult to get rid of than this. 
Vvhere it arises from suppressed perspiration, high 
seasoned food, or intemperance, it may indeed be 
relieved by the warm bath, oy sweating, piu-ging, 
and a low diet; but when it exists in persons who 
tiave always h d temperate lives, and in whom it 
teems constiluUonal, medicine has but little efiect 
2 C 



on it. In all cases, however, the following plan 
may be adopted, take a dos" of Epsom salts twice 
or thrice a week, use the warm bath daily, live on 
mush and milk exclusively, -ind drink notiiin}; but 
water. The parts may be touched frequently with 
the lotion below. If, after a trial of several months, 
this should not succeed, try Fowler's solution, or the 
pills for scald head, with the decoction of giiaiacum 
sRid sarsaparilla. The various cosmetics and astiin- 
gent applications recommended for these afteclions 
are always prejudicial, for althougli they soms^tiines 
repress the eruption, they occasion more severe 
and dangerous complaints. 

Lotion. — Take of corrosive sublimate 4 grains 
of spirits of wine half an ounce; when the salt i 
dissolved, ad J of common gin and of water, eacl, 
three ounces. 



S'yW vy. 

Syrupto'ins. — Bleeding of the gums, teeth loose, 
spots of various colours on the skin, generally livid, 
debility, countenance pale and bloated, pulse small, 
quick, and intermitting. In its advanced stage the 
jointo swell, and blood bursts out from different 
parts of the body. 

Treatment. — Remove the patient to a new and 
healthy situatioi., where the air is dry and pure; 
give him plenty of fresh vegetables, such as spin- 
nage, lettuce, beets, carrots, and scurvy-grass. A 
small proportion of fresh animal food should be 
taken with them. This, with oranges, lemons and 
sugar, or lemonade, spruce beer, with wine and 
water, are generally sufficient to cure the com- 
plaint. The nitric vinegar is strongly recommend- 
ed for the same purpose. If there is much pain ri 
the bowels, laudanum must be used to relieve it. 
If the breathing is difficult, or there is much pain 
in the breast, apply a blister to it, for on no account 
should blood be drawn in scurvy. A tea-spoonful 
of charcoal, well mixed with half a pint of vinegar, 
forms an excellent gargle to clean the gums and 
ulcers in the mouth. Those on the body may be 
washed with the same, or lemon juice, pure, or 
mixed with water. The yest or charcoal poultice 
may also be applied to them with advantage. To 
restore the tone of the system, recourse must be 
had to the Peruvian bark, with the elixir of 
vitriol, the muriated tincture of iron, exercise^ 
&;c. he. 

JViiric vinegar. — Dissolve three or four ounces 
of nitre ^saltpetre) in one quart of vinegar. The 
dose is trom half an ounce to an ounce. If the 
strength of it occasions any inconvenience, add .'^ 
little water, or diminish the quantity of the dose. 

Of tumoin s. 
liy the word tumour is meant a swelling of awy 
part of the body. They are of difierent kinds, 
arise from various causes, and are more or less 
dangerous, according to the nature of their con- 
tents, and the spot they occupy. 

Of ruptures. 

Ruptures are tumours caused by the protusion 
of a part of the bowels through certain natural 
openings. They are divided into reducible, irre- 
ducible, and strangulated. They mostly occur in 
men in the groin and bag. 

Causes. — Straining in f.ny way, as at stool, 
vomiting, lifting heavy weights, violent exercise, 
as jumping, running, &cc., a natural weakness of 
the parts. 

Reducible ruptures. 

Symptoms. — A small swelling, free from pain, 
and generally soft, the colour of tlte skin over it 
remaining unaltered. . "While standing up, the 
swelling increases, on lying down, it decreases, 



218 



UNIVERSAL RECSIPT BOOK. 



the patient being able to return the parts Isimself, 
while iti that position. The swtiling is also in- 
creased by coughing, sneezing, or straining as if at 
stool. If he is flp*ulent, a rumbling sensation 
may be felt in it. 

Treatment. — The patient should place himself 
on his back, with his head and shoulders a little 
elevated, draw up his knees to his belly, and (if 
in this position the parts do not return of them- 
selves) endeavour to push or knead them up into 
the belly, through the.opening at which they come 
out, and which, il the tumour be in the groin or 
bag, is an oval ring or slit in the groin, at the pre- 
cise spot where the swelling first appeared. When 
this is effected, he should remain quiet until a truss 
can be procured, the spring of which must be pass- 
ed round his body, the pad be applied directly over 
the spot just mentioned, and held there with one 
hand, while the other passes the strap into the 
buckle and draws it sufficiently tight. Having 
done this, he should get up and walk about. If 
the swelling no longer appears, the truss is pro- 
perly appJied, if otherwise, take it oft', return the 
parts as before, and apply it again; when, if on 
rising, walking about, slightly coughing, &c. the 
parts are found to be well kept up, he may resume 
bis ordinary business. The truss should be worn 
night and day, as long as he lives. 
Irreducible ruptures. 

Symptoms. — A rupture in which there is no pain, 
yet that cannot be returned into the belly, caused 
by an increased bulk of the parts, or tiieir having 
formed adhesions, or grown fast to adjoining parts. 

Treatment. — A rupture thus situated must be 
!eft to itself. The patient should be extremely 
cautious in his diet, and in avoiding costiveness, 
by the use of clysters, or if necessary, laxative 
medicines. He should also be very careful to pro- 
tect the tumour from blows, always recollecting 
that it is in danger of strangulation. 
Strangulated ntptures. 

Symptoms. — The first mark of a rupture being 
strangulated, or of pressure being made on it, is 
costiveness. The tunnur, which befDre was in- 
sensible, becomes painful, the pain being most se- 
vere at the spot where the strangulation or stric- 
ture exists, and extending from tlience across the 
belly, which becomes swollen and hard. The pain 
rese'mbles that which the patient would suppose to 
arise if a cord was drawn tightly across it. The 
pain continues to increase, and is augmented by 
pressure; sneezing, coughing, nausea and vomit- 
ing, first of the contents of the stomach, and after- 
wards of the ii.testines, ensue; great anxiety, rest- 
»^ lessness, and a quick hard pulse. Hiccups, cold 
clammy sweats, weakened respiration, and a pulse 
so feeblf as hardly to be perceived, announce the 
approach or presence of mortification. 

Treatment. — Lose not a moment in sending for 
the best mculcai aid that may be within reach. I»i 
the mean lime, having placed the patient as direct- 
ed for reducible ruptures, apply both hands on the 
tumour with gentle, but gradually increasing pres- 
sure, or grasp the tumour gently but steadily with 
one hand, while with the lingers of the other you 
endeavour to knead or pusn up the parts nearest 
the ring in the groin, applying the p essure in the 
same course the parts have taken in their descent. 
If this fails, seize the tumour between the finger 
and thumb of the left hand, close to where it eii- 
ters the belly, and carry them downwards, with a 
moderate pressure, so as to dislodge any excrement 
which may be there, while with the right you en- 
deavour to push in tlie gut. 

If you cannot succeed in two or three attempts, 
place the ]iatient in a warm bath anil try il again. 
if still foiled (you have no time to waste in un- 



availing attempts) cover the tumour with pounded 
ice, snow, or any very cold application. Should 
this fail, bleed the patient until he nearly faints, 
regardless of tl.e small thready pulse; if fainting; 
actually occurs, seize that moment to return the 
parts, as befoi-e directed. 

Should the ruptui-e still remain irreducible, there 
I are but two resources left, the tobacco clyster, anii 
an operation. One half of the clyster should be 
injected; if it occasions sickness and a relaxation 
of the parts, endeavour to return them: if the first 
half does not produce these effects, throw up the 
remainder of it and when relaxation comes on, en- 
deavour, as before, to push up the gut. As re- 
gards the operation, no one should ever attempt it 
but a surgeon. Large doses of laudanum allay 
vomiting, and are otherwise beneficial: in all cases 
of this kind, they should never be omitted. 

Bemnrks. — Ruptures are liable to be confound- 
ed with some other diseases, as dropsy of the bag, 
enlarged spermatic vein, &c. The modes of dia- 
tinguishing them have already been pointed out, 
although it must be confessed that with respect to 
the latter, considerable difficulty exists. If the 
disease is a rupture, by placing the patient on his 
back, returning the tumour, and holding the fin- 
gers firmly over the opening, and then desiring 
iiim to rise, the swelling will not appear. If, on 
the contrary, it is an enlargi^d spermatic vein, it 
will be found to be greater than evei'. The latter 
has also a peculiar ropy feel, as if -a bundle of 
cords were in the bag. 

Ane^trism. 
Symptojns. — A small tumour without pain or 
redness, attended by a peculiar throbbing, it dis- 
i appears on jjrtssure, and returns the moment it is 
I removed. As the tymour increases in size, the 
throbbing or beating of the artery grows less per- 
ceptible. It is generally found in the ham, thigh, 
neck, groin and arm. It is divided into true and 
false. Distinguish it by the beating or throbbing, 
which is diminished by pressing on the artery 
above the tumour, and by the latter disappearing 
on pressure, and returning when it is removed. 

'I'reatment. — In the early sixge, a^jply a soft and 
elastic cushion to the tumour, and bind it tightly 
over it by a bandage. The diet should in all cases 
he extremely low, just sufficient to preserve life, 
and no more. If the patient is of a full habit, he 
should be bled and purged. I'his plan, steadily 
and vigorously pursue ' for a long time, has some- 
limes effected complete cures. There is nothing, 
however, but an operation that can be depended on, 
wherefore, as soon as any swelling of this nature 
is perceived, no time should be lost in procuring 
surgical assistance. If the tumour is left to itself, 
it will finally burst, and death be the inevitabfe 
consequence. 

Fleshy tuviours. 

Symptoms. — Small warty projections, Avhich, 
as they increase in size, drag down the skin from 
the neighbouring parts, which forms a kind of 
stem or foot stalk, on which the tumour hangs. 
They are riard, full of vessels, and are neithei 
painful nor inflamed. 

Trealjnent. — When veiy small, they may he fre ■ 
quetitly touched with caustic, which will destroj 
lliem. If large, the ligature or knife must be em- 
ployed, for which purpose have recourse to a sur- 
g-eon. 

Steatomatous tumours. 

Symptoms. — A small, doughy swelling, which 
gradually increases, and sometimes grows to an 
enormous size. It is soft and free from pain, the 
colour of the skin remaining unaltered. 



MED] CINE. 



219 



Treatment.— These tumours, technically called 
steatomatous, are merely inconvenient from their 
bulk. They can only be removed by the ligature 
or knife, for which purpose apply to a surgeon. 
Encysted tumours. 

Symptoms. — A distinct, hard, circumscribed 
swelling, gradually growing 'arger, until a slight 
inflammation comes on, when it becomes a little 
painful, soon after which a fluctuation is distinctly 
to be perceived. As i. progresses the vessels be- 
come enlarged; it seldom exceeds the size of an 
egg. 

'^r^eatment. — ^Apply to a surgeon. 

Ganglion. 

Symptoms. — A small, moveable, elast! ', swell- 
ing, with little or no pain, or alteration in the skin, 
sitmted under or between tendons or sinews, and 
generally near to a joint; it sometimes hinders the 
motions of the part. 

Treatment. — Apply pressure, blisters, or fric- 
tions of strong camphorated mercurial ointment 
to the tumour. If diese are of no avail, make a 
small puncture in it with the point of a sharp lan- 
cet, let out its contents, and apply pressure to the 
part, so as to make the two sides of the sack or 
bag grow together. 



Symptoms. — A nard, circumscribed, inflamed, 
and very painful tumour, of a conical shape, sel- 
dom exceeding in size a pigeon's egg. 

Treatment. — If the patient is of a full habit, 
bleed and pursue him with Epsom salts. A soft 
poultice of warm bread and milk, or rye meal, 
should always be applied to the bile, and frequent- 
ly changed. If the pain is ex'"essive, a tea-spoon- 
ful of laudanum may be mixed with each one. Ir. 
a few days matter will be formed, when it may be 
let out with a sharp lancet. 



Carhmcle. 

A deeply seated, hard, immoveable and circum- 
scribed tumour, which appears generally on the 
back, shoulders, &c. About the middle it is of a 
dark red or purple colour, being much paler or 
mottled round its edges. It is attended with an 
intolerable itching and burning pain, and at last 
becomes a kind of sloughing ulcer. 

Treatment. — This will depend upon the state of 
the constitution. Most generally there is great 
weakness, in which case the diet must be generous. 
Bark, with the elixir of vitriul and opium, to re- 
lieve the pain, are to be frequently employed. As 
a local remedy, a blister ranks very high. It 
should be placed directly on the part. After being 
cut, it may b<, succeeded by a bas.licon plaster. A 
modern writer strongly recommends the solution 
of arsenic, as a local remedy in this disease. 
Pledgets of linen dipped in the liquor, are to be 
laid on the swelling, and frequently renewed. 
When matter begins to form, apply a bread and 
milk poultice, and treat it in every respect as a 
common ulcer. 



miitloiv, or felon. 
Symptoms. — An inflamed tumour at the end of 
the finger. It is of thre<i kinds. The first is situ- 
ated immediately under the skin, around the nail. 
The second, in the cellular membrane, the pain 
and swelling of which is much greater tlian in the 
first, and the matter much longer in forming. The 
third lies under the sheath or covering of the ten- 
dons of the fingers, and is infinitely more violent, 
, painful, anu dangerous., than either of the others. 
Treatment. — If of the first description, open the 
i'^ijf'' k :*:j<;9*i wilh a neodle, and let out the matter, 



which shuulJ he pi-evented from forming, if possi- 
ble, by bathing (he part with camphoretfed spirits. 
I'he second should be dispersed by purging, and 
by leeches and blisters. If the inflammation is not 
reduced by these means. witl> a very sharp pen- 
knive, make an early an<l free incisioi in the mid- 
v'le of the last joint of the finger down to the bone. 
Suffer the blood to run for a few minutes, and thet 
treat it as a common cut. The si.me practice should 
be followed with jegard to the third. 

Files. 

Symptoms. — A pain in the fundament when 
going to stool; on examination small tumours are 
perceived to project beyond its verge. They are 
of two kinds, the blind and bleeding. They may 
also be internal and external. 
Blind piles. 

Treatment. — A diet of rye mush and milk, 
strictly adhered to for a length of time, will very 
frequently cure the disease. If they project, are 
swelled, and painful, apply twenty or thirty 
leeches to them, and cold applications. The com- 
mon gall ointment is a very soothing application. 
Balsam copaiva, in doses sufficiently large to purge 
freely, is also highly recommended. A radical 
cure, however, is only to be sought for in the knife 
or ligature, for which apply to a surgeon. If the 
pain is very great, laudanum may be taken to ease it. 
Bleeding piles. 

Treatment. — If the bleeding is considerable, in- 
ject a solution of alum or a decoction of oak bark, 
or make pressure upon the vessels by introducing 
a sheep's gut, tied at one end into the fundament, 
and then filling it with any astringent fluid by a 
clyster pipe. This evacuation is sometimes salu- 
tary, and it often requires much judgment to know 
if it should be stopped or not. 



Of Abscess. 

Symptoms. — I'he i' rmation of matter under the 
skin, or in any part of the body, preceded by in- 
flamrPHcion, and mt.iked by a dull heavyweight; 
by the pain becoming more acute and darting; by 
a peculiar throbbing; by the swelling becoming 
more elevated, and soft to the touch. If the tumour 
is not opened it bursts. 

Treativcnt. — Apply a soft and warm bread and 
milk, or Imseed poultice to the part, and endea- 
vour to hasten the formation of matter. When this 
is evident, let it out with a sharp lancet. If the 
patient is weak, let him have a generous diet with 
wine, porter, bark, 8ic. 

Psoas Mscess. 

Symptoms.- -A weakness across the loins, accom- 
panied by a dull pain. After a while, tlie paiu 
shifts from the back to the thigh and hip, becoming 
more darting and severe. The glands in thegroia 
swell, and at last a soft tumour is perceived at the 
lower edge of the groin, or by the side of the fui> 
dament; the swelling increases to a large size, auA. 
sometimes extends iiself down the thigh. 

Treatment. — In the early stage, bleed and purge 
the patient, keep him on a low diet, and apply a 
large blister over the lower part of the back. Con- 
finement in bed is absolutely necessary. V/hen 
matter is formed, make an opening into the tu- 
mour in the following manner: Push a sharp lancet 
first through the skin, then obliquely upwards un- 
der it, a.id then, by depressiiig the point, pierce 
the swelling itself. In this way, the abscess is 
opened without the danger that attends wnunds ol 
large cavit'i-.s. If it is small, the whole of the mat- 
ter may be allowed to flow away at once; if large, 
after drawing a pint, close the wound for a few 
hours, and then finish the operation. The lips ot 
the wound must be kept together by sticking plus- 



§20 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



ter. As there are many vessels of importance in 
the groin, care must be taken to avoid wounding 
them, and ii' a surgeon can be had, he should 
always be applied to for this purpose. 

Of fistula. 

Symptoms. — An abscess or ulcer in the neigh- 
bourhood of the fundament, preceded by an in- 
flamed swelling, whicli gives much pain. If there 
IS no coremiiiication between tlio gut and the sore, 
it is called an incomplete, if there is, a complete 
fistula. 

Treatment As the tumour is often taken for 

piles, attention should be paid to distinguish tiiem. 
In all cases apply forty or fitty leeches to the part, 
keep the bowels pertclly loose by a diet of rye 
mush, and confine the patient to his bed. If, liow- 
ever, the formation of rnutter cannot be hindered, 
the swelling must be opt ned earl}', and a poultice 
applied to it, when tlie disease occasionally heals 
like any other sore; but nine times out of ten it 
forms a callous winding abscess, through which 
(if it 'S complete) excrement, ixe. often passes. 
Wheu it arrives at this point, nothing but an ope- 
ration can ever be of any service. 

There is another species of fistulous opening, 
■"hieh follows the obstruction caused by stric- 
tures, &c. in the urinary passage. The water 
not being able to flow through the natural canal, 
makes its way out between tiie bag and the funda- 
ment, constituting what is called fistula in perineo. 
It may almost be called an incurable disease; at all 
events, none but a surgeon can do any thing lo re- 
Jcve it. 



Of Ulcers. 

By ulcers, are meant holes or sores in tiie skin 
nd flesh, which dischage matter. They are di- 
ided into inflamed, fungous, sloughing, and in- 
dolent ulcers in the nev^hbouihood of carious 
uone, and those attended by a peculiar diseased 
action. 

Inflamed vlce^-s. 

Symptoms. — The margin of the sore is ragged, 
the skin ending in a sharp edge round it. The 
neighbouring parts are red, swelled and painful, 
the bottom of the ulcer is uneven and covered with 
a white spongy substance. In place of healthy 
yellow matter, it discharges a thin fluid; the sur- 
face of it bleeds on the slightest touch. 

Treatment. — Confine the patient to bed, bleed 
and purge him occasionally, let his diet be extreme- 
ly low, and apply a soft bread and milk or linseed 
poultice to the ulcer. When healthy yellow mat- 
ter is formed, omit the poultice, kee^) the sore very 
clean, and apply a plaster of simple ointment. 
Fungous ulcers. 

Symptoms. — The presence of large round gran- 
ulations, rising above the level of the adjoining 
parts, or wliat is commonly called proud flesh, 
marks lliis species of ulcer. 

Treatment. — Sprinkle red precipitate over the 
proud flesh, or touch it with lunar caustic, apply 
dressings of simple cerate to the sore, and pass a 
band'ige tightly over the whole. Burnt alum and 
blue vitriol may also be used to destroy the pioud 
flesh. Pressure by a bandage will often succeed 
when all other means fail. 

Sloughing ulcer. 

Symptoms.— The death of parts of an ulcer whi«h 
mortify and fall oft", generally attended by fever and 
pain. 

Treatment. — The diet should be generous, lau- 
danum must be taken to relieve pain, and bark, 
wine, porter, &c. to strengthen the system. The 
carrot poultice is the best local ap\)licai.ion. The 
sore may also he ivashed with equal parts of a hot 



decoction of poppy heads and spirits of wine. 
When the dead (jortions have all H !len off, treat it 
as a simple ulcer, paymg atteatioi., however, to the 
state of the system. 

Indolent ulcer. 

Symptoms, — The edres of the- skin are thick^ 
raised, smooth and shi.iing. Tlie jHiinls cf newr 
flesh are glossy, and the ai)pear:ince of the whole 
ulcer is that of fa old one, in which the healing 
process is at a stand. 

Treatmejit. — Touch the whole surface rides 
and edges of the sore with caustic, uluc > u ■ or- 
pow Jer it with Spanish flies or rea precipitate t?>d 
endeavoi'r in this way to rouse the parts to acii\>i.. 
If one article fails, try anotlier. Strips of sticking 
plaster i -lay be passed over the ulcer, about an inch 
apart, so as to draw its edges nearer togt-lher, and 
a long bandage be applied over tlie whole. 
Carious idcer. 

Symptoms. — Ulcers situated over or near cari- 
ous (or dead) bones, are thereby prevented from 
healing, they frequently penetrate deep into the 
liarts, forming a canal with haru and indolent sides, 
that discharges an ottensive unhealthy muUer. 

Treatment. — Keep the sore ciuan, ii piea* ft y 
proud flesh that may arise, and i)Hy attention tr>the 
general health of the patient, taking care that his 
strength be kept rp, if necessary, by wine, bark, 
porter, &c. Sec. The ulcer will not Ileal until all 
the pieces of dead uone are thrown oft". Tiiis pro- 
cess sometimes lasts for years, in which case, pa- 
tience IS the only remedy, and nature the best phy- 
sician. 

Cases of ulceration frequently occur, proceeding 
from various causes, whose ravages seem to bid 
defiance to medical power. So many extraordi- 
nary and 'veil attcs'-ui instances of rccoveiy from 
some of these, (in which (U-ath seemed already to 
liave clutched his emaciated victim,) by ineans of 
the Panacea of Mr Swaim, have been Isiid befC^.. 
the public, that it seems due to the unfortunate 
victims who may be afiiicted with it, to state, that 
instances of the above nature iiar : actually hap- 
pened un<ler the eye oi'tlie editor Be its compo- 
sition what it may, its efiects are evident. In all 
cases of ulceration, too much strc .s caniot be laid 
upon the necessity of keeping (i»t; parts clean. 



OF ACC1DE^4TS. 

Whenever a blow has b(- ;n inflicted, whether 
by being thrown from ahorse, out of a carriage, by 
falling from a height, or in any other way, bleed 
the patient to the amount of twelve or fourteen 
ounces, on the si)ol, if practicable, if not, as soon 
after the accident as jjossible. This rule admits 
of but one exception, and that in, when the vio- 
lence has been so great as nearly to extinguish all 
the powers of life, in wlilch case it is proper to 
wait for symptoms of returning animation. To has- 
ten these, a little wine and water, or other stimu- 
lus may be given. 

If, in consequence of a broken bone or other in- 
jury, the patient is unable lo walk, take a door 
from its hinges, lay him caretully on it, and have 
him carried by assistants lo the nearest bouse. If 
no dooi or sofa can be procured, two hoarus, suf- 
ficiently long and broad, should he nailed lo two 
cross pieces, the ends of which must project about 
a foot, so as (o form handles. If in the wooils, oi 
where no boards can be procured, a litter ma}'^ be 
formed from the branches of trees. In this way a 
hand-barrow may be constructed in a few minutes, 
on which the sufrerer may Le properly carried. 

If he has been wounded and bleeds, the bleeding 
must be stoppea «/slore he is removed. 



MEDICINE. 



221 



Having reached a house, lav him on a bed, and i 
aiidress him with care anil gentleness. If any dif- I 
ficuliy at'isjs in getting o.T his coat or pantaloons, ] 
rip up ihe seams, rather than use force. This bc- 
ir.g done, proceed to ascertain the nature of the in- 
juiy. 

This may be either simple or compound; that 
is, it ma" be a contusion or bruise, a wr and, tVac- 
tur<> cr dislocation, or it may be two or all of them 
united in one cr several parts. I 

A contusion is the necessary consequence of 
every blow, and is Known by the swelling and dis- | 
coloration of the skin. ■ 

AVounds are self-evident. | 

Fractures are known by the s'ldden and severe ; 
pain, bv the n:is-shapen appearance of the limb, ; 
somef'ii.es by its being shortened, by the patiunt j 
being unable to move it v.:tliout excruciating pain, ; 
but most certainly, by grasping the limb above and : 
below the spot where the fracture is supposed to i 
exist, and twisting itdiftsrent ways, when a gracing , 
will be felt, occasioned by the broken ends of the j 
tone rubbing against each other. If the swelling, i 
however, is veiy great, this experi^Tient should not j 
be made urtii it is reduced. 

Di-'iocations, or bones beirw out of joint, are | 
known by the deformity of the joint when com;>ar- , 
ed with fts fellow, by the pain and inability to move j 
the limb, by its being longer or shorter than usual, 
and by the impossibility of moving it in particular 
directions. 

Of contusion. 
If slight, ba'he the pare frequently with cold vi- 
negar and w?ter for a few hours, and then rub it 
■well with brandy, or spirits of any kind. Should 
it be verv great, or so as to have affected the whole 
body, which may be known by a general soreness, 
bleeil and purge the patient, and confine him to a 
<'!et of rice water, lemonade, panada, ucc. If fe- 
ver comes r>n, repeat the bleeding, purging, &c. 
In all cases of t!'is nature, be sure the water is re- 
gula' ly evacuated, for it soinetimes happens that 
in consequence of the nerves of the bladder being 
palsied bj' the blow, the patient feels v,". desire to 
pass it, though the bladder be full, ii a sjppres- 
sion ensues, pass a catheter, if possible, or procure 
nssistauce tor that purpose. 



Of sprains. 
Plunge the part s(,iained into very cold water, 
and hold it there ao long at a time as you can bear 
it — for several hours — then rab it well with cam.- 
phorated spirits. If the accident has happenec' to a 
joint, as in the ankle, and it remains weak, pour 
cold water on it from the spout of a tea-kettle, n.^ld 
at a distance, several times in the day. The most 
sericas effects, however, resulting from contusion, 
are when the bl"w is applied to the head, prodiio- 
ing either concussion or compression of the brain. 

Concession of the brain. 

S i/mpiom s. —I'hn patient is stimned, his breath- 
ing slow, drowsiness, stupidity, the pupil of the 
eye rather contracted, vomiting. After a time he 
reco 'ers. 

Treatment. — ^Apply cloths dipped in cold vine- 
gar ai.d water to his bead, and when the stupor is 
gone bleed him, and open his bowels with Epsom 
salts. IT> should be connned to bed, k^ipt on a low 
diet, in a quiet bituation, and every measure taken 
to prevent an intliaiunation of the brain, whi :h, if 
it comes on, must be treated by copious bleeding, 
blisters, 5cc. 



Compression of the brain. 
Symptoms. — Loss of sense and motion, slow, i 



noisy and latjorions breathing, pulse slow and ir- 
regular, the muscles relaxed, as in a person just 
dead the pupil uf the eye enlar?;ed and will not 
contract even by a strong light, the patient lies 
like one in an api.plectic bt, and cannct be roused. 
Treatment. — 0[<-\ a vein and draw oft" sixteen 
or twe;.ty ounces of blood, shave the head, and ii 
possible, procure surgical assistance without delay, 
as there is notiiing but an operation that can be ol 
anv avail. 



Of woimds. 

"Wounds are of three kinds, viz. incised, punc- 
tured and contused; among the latter are included 
gim-shot wounds. The first step in all wounds, is 
To stop tlie bleeding. 

If the flow of blood is but trifling, draw the 
edges of the wound together with your hand, and 
hold them in that position some time, when it will 
frequently stop. If, on the contrary, it is large, 
of a bright red colour, flowing in spirts or with a 
jsrk, clap your finger on the spot it springs from, 
and hold it "tiiere with a firm pressure, while you di- 
rect some one to pass a handkerchief round thelimk 
(su')posing the wound to be in one) above the cut, 
and to tie its two ends together in a hard knot. A 
cane, whip-handle, or stick of any kind, must now 
be passed under the knot, (between the upper sur- 
face of the limb and the handkerchief ) and turned 
round and round until the stick is brouglit down to 
the thigh, so as to make the handkerchief encircle 
it with considerable tightness. You may then take 
off your finger, if the blood still flows, tighten the 
handkerchief by a turn or two cf the stick, until it 
ceases. The patient maj' now be removed (taking 
care to secure the stick in its position) without run- 
ning any risk of bleeding to death by thj way. 

As this apparatus cannot be left on for any length 
of time^ without destroyii.^ the life of the parts, 
endeavour as soon as possible to secure the bleed- 
ing vessels, and take il off. Having waxed toge- 
ther three or four threads of a sufficient length, 
cut the ligature they farm, into as many pieces as 
you think there are vessels to be taken up, each 
piece being about a foot long. "Wash the parts 
with warm water, and then with a sharr> hook, or 
a slender pair of pincers in your hand, fi.Y your 
eye steadfastly upon the wound, and direct the 
handkerchief to be relaxed by a turn or two of the 
stick; you will now see the mouth of the arlei-y 
from whic.ii the blood springs, seize it with your 
hook or pincers, draw it a little out, while someone 
passes a ligature round it, and ties it up tight with 
a double knot. In this way take up in succession 
every bleeding vessel you can see or get hold of. 

If the wound is too high up in a limb to apply 
the handkerchief, don't lose your presence of 
miud, the bleeding can still be commanded. If it 
is the thigh, press firmly in the groin, if in the 
arm, with the hand end or ring of a common door 
key, make pressure above the collar bone, and auout 
its middle against the first rib which lies under it. 
The pressure is to be continued until assistance is 
procured, and tht, vessel tied up. 

If the wound is on the head, press your fingei 
firmly on it, until a compress can be brought, 
which must be bound firmly over the artery by a 
bandage. If the wound is in the face, or so situat- 
ed that pressure cannot be effectually made, or you 
cannot get hold of the vessel, and the blooa flows 
fast, place a piece of ice directly over the wound, 
and let it remain there till the Llood coagulates, 
when it may be removed, and a compress and ban- 
dage be applied. 

Incised lominds. 

Uy an incised wound is meant a clean cut. HaT« 
iug stopped the bleeding, wash away all dirt, &c. 



222 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



tJiat may be in it with a spf^nge and warm water, 
tlien draw the sides of the wound together, and 
keep them in (hat position by narrow sti'^ps of 
Bticking plaster, placed on at ree;iilar distances, or 
from one to two inches apart. A soft compress of 
old linen or lint may be laid over the whole. 

Should much inhammation follow, reniove the 
strips, bled and purge the patient (who should live 
very low, and be kept perfectly quiet) according 
to the exigency of tiie case. If it is plain that 
naatter must form before the wound will heal, ap- 
ply a soft poultice until that event takes place, 
v.'hen dressings of some simple ointment may be 
substituted for it. 

Although Bsrrow strips of linen, spread with 
sticking plaster, form the best means of keeping 
the sides of a wound together, when they can be 
applied, yet in the ear, nose, tongue, lips, and 
eye-lids, it is necessaiy to use stitches, which are 
made in the following manner. Having armed a 
common needle with a double waxed thread, pass 
the point of it through tbe skin, at a little distance 
from the edge of the cut, and bring it out of tlie 
opposite one, at the same distance. If more than 
one stitch is required, cut off the needle, thread it 
again, and proceed as before, until a sufficient 
number are taken, leaving the threads loose until 
all the stitches are passed, when the respective 
ends of each tiiread must be tied in a hard double 
knot, drawn in such a way that it bears a little on 
the side of the cut. When the edges of the wound 
are partly united by inflammation, cut the knots 
carefully, and withdraw the threads. 

From what has been said, it must be evident 
that in ali wounds, after arresting the flow of blood, 
and cleansing the parts, if necessary, the great in- 
dication is to bring their sides into contact through- 
out their whole depth, in order that they may grow 
together as quickly as possible, and without the 
interventton of matter. To obtain this very de- 
sirable result, in addition to tlie means already 
mentioned, there are two things to be attended to, 
the position of the patient and tiie application of 
the bandage. The position of the patient should 
be such as will relax the skin and muscles of the 
part wounded, thereby diminishing their tendencj' 
':o separate. 

A common bandage of a proper width, passed 
'>ver the compresses moderately tight, not only 
serves to keep them in their place, but also tends 
Dy its pressure, to forward the great object already 
mentioned. If, however, the wound is so exten- 
sive and painful that the limb or body of the pa- 
tient cannot be raised for the purpose of applying 
or removing it, the best way is to spi-ead the two 
ends of one or two strips of linen or leather with 
sticking plaster, which may be applied in place of 
the bandage, as follows: attach one end of a strip 
to the sound skin, at a short distance from the 
edge of the compress, over which it is to be drawn 
with moderate firmness, and secured in a similar 
manner on its opposite side. A second or third 
may, if necessary, be added in the same way. 

In all wounds, if violent inflammation come on, 
reduce it by bleeding, purging, See. but if there is 
reason to fear locked-jaw, give wine, porter, bran- 
dy^ upium, and a generous diet. 

Punctured -wounds. 
These are caused by sharp pointed instruments, 
as needles, awls, nails, &c. Having stopped the 
bleeding, witlidraw any foreign body, as part of a 
needle, splinters, bit of glass, isc. that may be in 
it, provided it can be done easily; and if enlarging 
the wound a little will enable you to succeed in 
this, do so. Though it is not always necessary to 
enlarge wounds of this nature, yet in hot weather 
it is a mark of precaution, which should never be 



omitted. As soon as tliis is done, pour a little tur- 
pentine into the wound, or touch it with caustic, 
and then cover it with a poultice, moistened with 
laudanum. This practice may prevent locked- 
jaw, which is but too frequei t ii consequence '^f 
wounds of this description. Wlien matter forms, 
cover the pait with mild dressings, as a commou 
sore. La-idanum may be given in large doses, to 
relieve pain, and should the inflammation be ex- 
cessive, bleed and purge. In hot weather, however, 
bleeding should be employed in gi-eat moderation. 
Contused -wounds. 
\\'ounds of this nature are caused by round or 
blunt bodies, as musket balls, clubs, stones, &c. 
They are in general attended but by little bleed- 
ing; if, however, there should be any, it must be 
stopped. If it arises from a ball which can be easily 
found and withdrawn, it is proper to do so, as well 
as any piece of tlie clothing, ixc. that may be in it: 
or if the ball can be distinctly felt directly under 
the skin, make an incision across it, and take it 
out, hut never allow of any poking in the wound 
to search for such things; the best extractor of 
them, as well as the first and best application in 
contused wounds, proceed from what they m.w, 
being a soft bread and milk poultice. 

Should the inflammation be great, bleed and 
purge. Pain may be relieved by laudanum, and 
if the parts assume a dark look, threatening a mor- 
tification, cover them Avith a blister. 

If the wound is much torn, wash the i>arts very 
nicely with warm water, and then (having secure'o 
every bleeding vessel) lay them all down in as na- 
tural a position as you can, drawing their edges 
gently together, or as much so as possible, by strips 
of sticking plaster, or stitches, if necessary. A 
soft po'^itice is to be applied over the whole. 
Poisoned -wounds from bites of mad dogs, rattle- 
snakes, &c. 
The instant a person is bitten either by a mad 
dog, rattle-snake, or any rabid animal or reptile, 
he should apply a ligature by means of the stick, 
above the wound, as tightly as he can well bear it, 
and without hesitation or delay, cut out the parts 
bitten, taking along with them a portion of the sur- 
rounding sound flesh. The wound should then be 
freely touched with caustic, or have turpentine 
poured into it. A decoction of Spanish flies in 
turpentine, may also be applied to the skin sur- 
rounding the wound. By these means inflamma- 
tion will be excited, and suppuration follow, which 
may prevent the usual dreadful consequences of 
such accidents. As soon as the parts are cut out, 
'take off" the ligature. 

Snould the patient be too timid to allow the use 
ot ihe knife, burn the wound very freely with caus- 
tic, and place in it a tuft of tow or cotton, well 
moistened with the above decoction. The discharge 
of matter that follows should be kept up for some 
time. The only reasonable chance for safety, is 
found in the above plan, all tlie vegetable and mine- 
ral productions that have been hitherto recom- 
mended as internal remedies, being of very doubt- 
ful, if of any efficacy. 

The use of the chlorurets, however, in treating 
wounds from rabid animals, is now becoming gene- 
ral in France and Germany, and many satisfactory 
cases are recorded. M. Schoer-berg, a German 
surgeon, states, that of three persons who were 
bitten by a dog, two used the chloruret of lime, 
and recovered from their wounds, whilst the third, 
who refused to submit to the treatment, died rav- 
ing mad. This gentleman applies to the wounds, 
twice a day, a piece of lint dipped in a solution ot 
the chloruret, and orders his patients to take, three 
times a day, from 2 drachms to 1 ounce of the 
chloruret in water. 



MEDICINE. 



223 



Stings of bees and -wasps, bites of musqidttoes, &c. 
Nothing lelieveslhe pain arising from the sting 
of a liornet, liee, or wasp, so soon as plung^ing the 
part in extremely cold water, and holding it there 
for some time. A cold lead-water poultice is also 
a ?ery soothing application. If a number of tliese 
insects liave attacked you at once, and the parts 
stung are much swollen, lose some blood, and take 
X (lose of salts. 

Musquitto-bifcs may be treated in the same man- 
iiei, althougii 1 hctve found a solution of common 
salt and water, made very strorg, speedy and ef- 
fectual in relieving the pain. Camphorated si)i- 
rits, vinegar, &c. may also be used for the same 
purpose. A solution of Prussian blue in soft v/ater, 
with which the parts are to be kept constantly 
moist, is a highly celebrated remedy for the stings 
of bees, wasjis, &cc. &c. 

Wounds of the ear, nose, &c. 
Wash the parts clean, and di'aw tne edges of the 
wound together by as manj' stitches as are neces- 
sary. If the part is even completely separated, 
and has been trodden under Jeet, by washing it in 
warm water, and placing it accurately in the pro- 
per place, by the same means, it may still ad- 
here. 

Wounds of the scalp. 
In all wounds of the scalp it is necessary to shave 
off the hair. When this is done, wash the parts 
well, and draw the edges of the wound together 
with sticking plaster. It it has been violently torn 
up in several i>ieces, wash and lay them all uown 
on the skull again, drawing their edges as nearly 
together as possible by sticking plaster, or, if ne- 
cessary, by stitches. Cover tlie whole with a soft 
compress, smeared with some simple ointment. 
Wounds of the throat. 
Seize and tie up every bleeding vessel you can 
get hold of. If the wind-pipe is cut only partly 
through, secure it with sticking plaster. If it is 
completely divided, bring its edges together by 
stitches, taking care to pass the needle through 
the loose membrane that covers the wind-i)ipe, 
and not through the wind-pipe itself. The head 
should be bent on the breast, and secured by bols- 
ters and bandages in that position, to favour the ap- 
proximation ot the edges of the wound. 
Woiuids of the chest. 
If it is a simple incised wound, draw the edges 
of it together by sticking plaster, cover it with a 
compress of linen, and pass a bandage round the 
chest. The patient is to be confined to his bed, 
kept on a very low diet, and to be bled and purged, 
in order to prevent inflammation. If the latter 
eomes on, reduce it by copious and frequent 
bleedings. 

Should it be occasioned by a bullet, extract it, 
and any pieces of cloth, &c. that may be lodged in 
it, if possible, and cover the wound with a piece of 
linen smeared with some simple ointment, taking 
care that it is not drawn into the chest. If a portion 
of the lung protrudes, return it without any deiay, 
but as gently as possible. 

Wounds of the belly. 
Close the wound by strips of sticking plaster, 
and stitches passed through the skin, about half 
an inch from its edges, and cover the whole ».vith a 
soft compress, secured by a bandage. Any in- 
flammation that may arise is to be reduced by 
bleeding, purging, and a blister over the whole 
belly. 

Should any part of the bowels come out at the 
wound, if clean and uninjured, return it as quickly 
HS possible; if covered with dirt, clots of blood, 
&c. wash it carefully in warm water previous to so 
doing. If the gut is wounded, and only cut partly 
through, draw the two edges of it togethei' by » 



stitch, and return it; if completely divided, con- 
nect the edges by four Glitches at equal distances, 
and replace it in the belly, always leaving the 
end of the ligature project from the external 
wound, Avhich must be closed by sticking plaster. 
In five or six days, if the threads are loose, with- 
draw them gently and carefully. 
Woznids of joints. 

Bring the edges of the "wound together by stick- 
ing plaster, without any delay, keep v.he part per- 
fectly at rest, bleed, purge, and Jive very low, to 
prevent inflammation. Should kt come on, it must 
be met at ii. first approach by bleeding to as great 
an extent as th2 condition of the patient will war- 
rant, and by a blister covering the whoie joint. If 
a permanent stiffening of the joint seems likely to 
ensue, keep the limb in that position which will 
prove most useful, that is, the leg should be ex- 
tended, and the arm bent at the elbow. Wounds 
of joints are always highly dangerous, and fre- 
quently terminate in death. 

Wounds of tendons. 

Tendons, or sinews, are frequently wounded and 
ruptured. Tney are to be treated precisely like 
any oth'^r wound, by keeping their divided parts 
together. The tendon which connects the great 
muscle forming the calf of the leg, with the heel, 
called the tendon of Achilles, is frequently cut witl» 
tlie adze, and ruptured in jumping from heights. 
This accident is to be remedied by drawL.ig up ihe 
heel, extending the foot, and placing a splint on the 
fore part of the leg, extending from the knee to 
beyond the toes, which bei.ig secured in that posi- 
tion by a bandage, keej) the foot in the position 
just mentioned. The hollows under the splint 
must be filled up with tow or cotton. If the skin 
falls into the space between the ends of the tendon, 
apply a piece of sticking plaster, so as to draw it 
out of the way. It takes five or six weeks to unite, 
but no weight should be laid on the limb for seve- 
ral months. 



Offractures. 

The signs by which fractures may be known, 
having been already pointed out witii sufijcient 
minuteness, it will be unnecessary to dwell there- 
on; it will be well, however, to recollect this gene- 
ral rule: In cases, where, from the accompanying 
circumstances and symptoms, a strong suspicion 
exifts that the bone is fractured, it is proper to act 
as though it were positively ascertained to be so. 
Fractures of the bone o^ the nos".. 

The bones of the nose from t'heir exposed situa- 
tion, are frequently forced in. Any smooth arti- 
cle that will pass into the nostril should be imme- 
diately introduced with one hand, to raise the de- 
pressed portions to the proper level, while the 
other is employed in moulding them into the re- 
quired shape. If violent inflammation follows, 
bleed, purge, and live on a low diet. 
Fracture of the lower jaiv. 

Tl.is accident is easily discovered by looking in- 
to the mouth, and is to be remedied by keeping 
the lower jaw firmly pressed against the upper one. 
by means of a bandage passed under the chin and 
over the head. If it is broken near the angle, oi 
that part nearest the ear, place a cushion or roll of 
linen in the hollow behind it, over which the ban- 
dage must pass, so as to make it push that part of 
the bone forward. The parts are to be confined in 
th'S way for twenty days, during which time, all 
the nourishment that is taken, should be sucked 
between the teeth. If in consequence of the blow, 
a tooth is loosened, do not meddle with it, for if 
let alone, it will grow fast again. 

Fractures of the collar bone. 

This accident is a very common occurrence, and 



224 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK, 



islcnown at once by passing the finger itlong it, and 
by tlie swelling, isia. To reduce it, seit the pa- 
tient in a chaif without any shirt, and place a pret- 
ty stout compress of liuen, mfde in the shape oFa 
wedge, under his arm, the thick end of which 
should press against the arm-pit. His arm, bent 
to a right angle at the elbow, is now to be brought 
down to his side, and secured in tnat position by a 
long bandage, which passes over the arm of the af- 
fected side a .d round the body. The fore-arm is 
to be supported aci'oss the breast by a sling. It 
takes from tour to live weeks to re-unite. 
Fractures of the arm. 

Seat the patient on a chair, or the side of a bed, 
let one assistant hold the sound arm, while another 
grasps the wrist ot the broken one and steadily ex- 
tends it in an opposite direction, bending the fore- 
arm a little, to serve as a lever. You can now 
place the bones in their proper situati m. Two 
splints of shingle or stout paste board, long enough 
to reach from below the shoulder to near the el- 
bow, must then be well covered with tow or cot- 
ton, ard laid along each side of the arm, and kept 
in that position by a bandage. The fore-arm is to 
be supported in a sling. Two smaller splints may 
for bettei- security be laid between the first ones, 
that is one on top, and the other underneath the 
arm, to be sef'ured by the bandage in the same way 
as the others. 

Fr~ctiires of the bones of the fore-arm. 

These are to be reduced precisely in the same 
way, except ing the mode of keeping the upper por- 
tion of it steady, whit-ii is done by grasping the 
arm above the elbow. When the splints and ban- 
dage are applied, support it in a sling. 
Fractures of the wrist. 

This accident is of rare occurrence. When it 
does happen the injury is generally so great as to 
require amputation. If you think the hand can be 
Saved, lay it on a splint well covered with tow^ 
this extends beyond the fingers; place another 
splint opposite to it, lined with the same soft ma- 
terial, and secure them by a bandage. The hand 
is to be carried in a sling. 

The bones of the hand are sometimes broken. 
When this is the case, fill the palm with soft com- 
presses or tow, and then lay a splint on it, long 
enough to extend from the elbow to beyond the 
ends of the fingers, to be secured by a bandage, as 
usual. 

When a finger is broken, extend the end of it 
until it becomes straight, place the fractured por- 
tion in its place, and then apply two small paste- 
board splints, one below and the other above, to 
be secured by a narrow bandage. The top splint 
should extend from the end of the finger over the 
back of the hand. It may sometimes be proper to 
have tv/o additional splints for the sides of the 
finger. 

Fractures of the ribs. 

When, after a fall or blow, the patient complains 
of a pricking in his side, we may suspect a rib is 
broken. It is ascertained by placing the tips of two 
or three fingers on the spot where the pain is, and 
desiring the patient to cough, when the grating 
sensation will be felt. All that is necessary, is to 
pass a broad bandage round the chest, so tight as 
to prevent the motion of the ribs in breathing, and 
to observe a low diet. 

Fractures of the thigh. 

This hone is frequently broken, and hitherto has 
Dcen considered the most difficult of all fractures 
to manage. To the ingenuity, however, of Dr 
Hartshorne, of this city, the world is indebted for 
an apparatus which does away the greatest impe- 
diments that have been found to exisi in treating 
it, so as to leave a straight limb, without lameness 



or deformity; nor is it the least of its merits, that 
any man of common sense can apply it nearly as 
well as a surgeon. 

It consists of two splints made of half or three 
quarter inch well seasoned stuff, from eight t,^ ten 
inches wiae, one of which should reach from a little 
above the hip, to fifteen or sixteen inches beyond 
the foot, while the other extends the same length 
from the gi'oin. The upper end of the inner srdint 
is hollowed out and well jiadded or stufted. Their 
lower endsai-e held together by i cross pif.ee, hav- 
ing two tenons, which enter two vertical mortices, 
one in each splint, and secured there by pins. In 
the centre of this cross piece (which should be very 
solid) is a female screw. Immediauly above the 
vertical mortices, are two horizontal ones of con- 
siderable length, in which slide the tenons of a 
second cross piece, to the np[)er side cf which is 
fast.-ned a foot block, sliaped like the sale of a shoe, 
wiiile in the other is a round hole for the recep- 
tion of the head of the male screw, which passes 
through the female one just noticed. On the top 
of this cross piece, to which the foot block is at- 
tached, are two pins, which fall into grooves at the 
head of the screw, thereby firmly conntctiiigthem. 
The foot block as before observed, is sba|>e<l like 
the sole of a shoe. Near the toe is a slit, through 
which passes a strap and buckle. Near the heel 
are a couple of straps, with tv/o rings, arranged 
precisely like those of a skate, of which, in fact, 
the whole foot block is an exact resemblance. A 
long male screw, of wood or other material, com- 
pletes the apparatus. 

To apply it, put a slipper on the foot of the bro- 
ken limb, and lay the apparatus over tlx leg. By 
turning the screw, vhe foot block will be forced up 
to the foot in the slipper, whic'i is to be firmly 
strapped to it, as boys fasten their skates. By turn- 
ing the screw the contrary way, the padded extre- 
mity of the inner splint presses against he gioin, 
and the foot is gradually drawn down, until the 
broken limb becomes of its natural length and ap- 
pearance, when any projection or little ineqjality 
that may remain, can be felt and reduced by a gen- 
tle pressure of the hand. 

The great advantages of tliia apparatus, I a^^ain 
repeat, are the ease with which it is applied, 
and the certainty with which it acts. The foot 
f nee secured to the block, in a way tliat every 
Echool-boy understands, nothing more is required 
than to turn the screw ui»til the broken limb is 
found to be of the same length as the sound one. 
It 13 right to observe that this should not be eftect- 
ed at once, it being better to turn the screw a lit- 
tle every day, until the limb is sufficiently ex- 
tended. 

As this appai'atus may not always be at hand, it 
is proper to mention Itie next best plan of treating 
the accident. It is found in the splints of Desault, 
improved by Dr Pliysic, consisting of four pieces. 
The first has a crutch head, and extends from the 
arm-pit to six or eight inches beyond the foot. A 
little below the crutch are two holes, and near the 
lower end on the inside, is a block, below which 
there is also a hole. The second re lehesfrom the 
groin, the same length with the first, bein?^ .ibout 
three inches wide above and two below. Two 
pieces of stout paste board, as many handkerchiefs 
or bands of muslin, with some tow, and a few 
pieces of tape, form the catalogue :)f the appi4i'a::'.s. 

it is applied as follows. Four or five pieces jf 
tape are to be laid across the bed, at equal disiiinces 
from each other. Over the u,>i)er two, is placed 
one of the short pasteboai-d splints, well covered 
with tow. Tiie patient is now to be carefully and 
gently placed on his back, so that his thigh may 
rest on the splint. One of the handkerchiefs, or i 



MEDlCrNE. 



strong soft band, is to be passed between the«testi- 
cle and thigh of the affected side, and its ends held 
by an assistant standiiip^ near the head of tlie bed. 
The second handkerctiief istobe passed round the 
ankle, crossed on the instep and tied under the 
soie of tlie foot. By steadily pulling these two 
liandkerchiefs, the limb is to be exteniied, while, 
with the hand, the broken bones are replaced in 
their natural position. The long splint is now to 
be placed by the side of the patient, the crutch 
in the arm-pit, (which is defended with tov,) 
while the short one is laid along the inside of the 
thigh and leg. The ends of the first handkerchief, 
being passed through the upper holes, are to be 
<lrawn tight and secured by a knot, while the ends 
of the second one pass over the block before men- 
tioned, to be fastened in like manner, at the lower 
one. All that remains is Ihe short pasteboard 
splint, which being well covered with tow, is to be 
laid on the top of the thigh. The tapes being tied 
so as to keep the four splints together, completes 
the operation. 

Tow is to be every where interposed between 
the splints and the limb, and a large handful of it 
placed in the groin, to prevent irritation from the 
npper or counter e.xtending band. It is necessary 
to be careful, while tying the two handkerchiefs, 
that they are not relaxed, so that if the operation is 
properly performed, the two limbs will be nearly 
■of an equal lei\gth. 

The superior advantages of Harlshorne's appa- 
ratus over this, as well as all others, must be evi- 
dent to every one acquainted witli the difficulty of 
keeping up that constant extension which is so ab- 
solutely necessary to avoid deformity and lame- 
ness, and which is so completely effected by the 
screw. Next to that, however, stands the one just 
described, which can be made by any carpenter in 
a few minntes, and which, if carefidly applied, will 
be found to answer extremely well. 

Fractured thighs and legs generally re-unite in 
SIX or eight weelis; in old men, however, they re- 
quire three or four months. 

In cases of fracture of the thigh or leg, the pa- 
tient should always, if possible, be laid on a matrass, 
supported by boards instead of the sacking, which, 
from its elasticity and the yielding of the cords, is 
apt to derange the position of the limb. 
Fractures of the knee-pan. 

This accident is easily ascertained on inspection. 
It may be broken in any direction, but is most 
generally so across or transversely. It is reduced 
by bringing the fragments together, and keeping 
them in that position by a long bandage passed 
carefully round the leg,' from the ankle to the 
knee, then pressing the upper fragment down so as 
to meet its fellow, (the leg being extended) and 
placing a thick compress of linen above it, over 
which the bandage is to be continued. 

The extended limb is now to be laid on a broad 
splint, extending from the buttock to the heei, 
thickly covered with tow to fill up the inequalities 
of the leg. For additional security, two strips of 
muslin may be nailed to the middle of the splint, 
and one on eacli side, and passed aboiU the joint, 
the one below, the other above, so as to form a 
figure of eight. In twenty or thirty days the limb 
should be moved a little to prevent stiniiess. 

If the fracture is through its length, bring the 
parts together, place a compress on each side, and 
keep them together with a bandage, leaving the 
limb extended and at rest. Any inflammation in 
this, or other fracture, is to be combated by bleed- 
ing, Jow diet, &c. &c. 

Fractures of the kg. 

From the thinnes.s of the parts covering the 
principal bone of the leg, it is easy to ascertain if 
2 D 



it is broken obliquely. If, however, the fracture 
be directly across, no displacement will occur, but 
the pain, swelling, and the grating sensation, will 
sufficiently decide the nature of the accident. 

If the fracture is oblique, let two assistants ex- 
tend the limb, while the broken parts are placed 
by the hand in their natural position. Two splints, 
that reach from a little above the knee to nine or 
fen inches below the foot, having near the upper 
end of each f:)ur holes, and a vertical mortice near 
the lower end, into which is fitted a cross piece, 
are now to be applied as follows. Lay two pieces 
of tape about a foot long, on each side of the leg, 
just below the knee joint, and secure them there 
by several turns of a bandage; pass a silk handker- 
chief round the ankle, cross it on the instep, and 
tie it under the sole of the foot. The two splints 
are now placed one on each side of the leg, the 
four ends of the pieces of tape passed through the 
four holes and firmly tied, and tlie tross-piece 
placed in the mortice. By tying the ends of the 
handkerchief to this cross piece the business is 
finished. 

If the fracture is across, and no displacement 
exists, apply two splints of stout pasteboard, 
reaching from liie heel to the knee, and well co- 
vered with tow, one on each side of the leg, se- 
curing them by a bandage passing round the limb, 
and outside the splints. 

In cases of oblique fractures of the leg close to 
the knee, Hartsiiorne's apparatus for fractured 
thighs should be ap|tlied, as already directed. 
Fractures of the bones of the foot. 

The bone of the heel is sometimes, though 
rarely, broken. It is known by a crack at the mo» 
ment of the accident, a difficulty in standing, by 
the swelling, and by the grating noise on moving 
the heel. To reduce it, take a long bandage, lav 
the end of it on the top of the foot, carry it over the 
toes under the sole, and then by se\eral turns se- 
cure it in that position. 

The foot being extended as much as possible, 
carry the bandage along the back of the leg above 
the knee, where it is to be secured by several 
turns, and then brought down on the front of the 
leg, to which it is secured by circular turns. In 
this way the broken pieces will be kept in contact, 
and in the course of a month or six weeks will 
be united. 

Fractures of the foot, toes, &c. are to be treated 
like those of the hand and fingers. 

Of dislocations. 

The signs by which a dislocation may be known, 
have been already mentioned. It is well to recol- 
lect that the sooner the attempt is made to reduce 
it, tfce easier it will be done. The strength of on^ 
man, properly applied, at the moment of the acci- 
de.it, will often succeed in restoring the head of a 
bone to its place, which in a few days would have 
required the combined efibrts of men and pulleys, 
if after several trials with the best apparatus that 
can be mustered, you find you cannot succeed, 
make 'be patient drink strong hot toddy of brandy 
or other spirits, until he is very drunk. In this 
way, owing to the relaxed state of the muscles, a 
very slight force will often be sufficient, where a 
very great one has been previously used without 
effect. « 

If any objections are made to this proceeding, or *■ 
if ihe patient will not consent to it, having youi* 
apparatus (which is presently to be mentioned) all 
ready, make him stand up, and bleed him in that 
position until he faints; tlie moment this ha,ipens, 
apply your extending and counter-exteDding torces. 
Another important rule is, to vary the direction of 
the extending force, A slight pull in one way -will 



226 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



often effect what has been in vain attempted by 
great force in anotlier. 

Dislocation of the hiverjaiv. 

This accident, which is occasioned by blows, or 
yawning, is known by an inability to shut the 
mouth, and the pi-ojection of the chin. To reduce 
it, seat the patient in a chair with his head sup- 
ported by the breast of an assistant, who stands 
behind him. Your thumbs being covered with 
leather, are then to be pushed between the jaws, as 
far back as possible, wiiile with the fingers, outside, 
Tou grasp the bone, which is to t)e pressed down- 
wards, at the same time that the chin is raised. 
If this is properly done, the bone will be found 
moving, when the ch'n is to be pushed back- 
wards, and the thumbs slipped between the jaws 
and the cheeks. If this is not done, the)' will be 
bitten by the sudden snap of the teeth as they come 
together. The jaws should be kept closed by a 
bandage tor a few days, and the patient live upon 
soup. 

Dislocation of the collar bone. 

This bone is rarely dislocated. Should it occur, 
apply the bandages, &.c. directed for a fracture of 
the same part. 

Dislocation of the shoulder. 

Dislocations of tlie shoulder are the most com- 
mon of all accidents of the kind. It is very easi- 
ly known by the deformity of the joint, and the 
liead of the bone being found in some unnatural 
position. To i-educe it, seat the patient in a chair, 
place one hand on the prominent part of the shoul- 
der blade, just above the spot where tlie head of 
the bone should be, while witii tlie other you grasp 
the arm above the elbow and pull it outwards. 

Should this not succeed, lay the patient on the 
ground, place your heel in his arm-pit, and steadi- 
ly and forcibly extend the arm, by grasping it at 
the wrist. The same thing may be tried in various 

Eositiofis, as placing yourself on the ground with 
im, laying him on a low bed, while you are stand- 
ing near tiie foot of it, kc. 

If this fails, pass a strong band over the shoul- 
der, carry it across the breast, give the ends to as- 
sistants, or fasten them to a staple in the wall; tlie 
middle of a strong band or folded towel is now to 
be laid on the arm above the elbow, and secured 
there by numerous turns of a bandage. Tiie two 
ends of the towel being then given to assistants, or 
connected with a pulley, a steady, continued, and 
forcible extension is to be made, while witli j'our 
hands you endeavour to push the head of the bone 
into its place. 

Dislocation of the elbow. 

If the patient has fallen on his hands, or holds 
ills arm bent at the elbow, and every endeavour t^ 
straighten it gives him pain, it is dislocated back- 
wards. Seat him in a chair, let one person grasp 
the arm near the shoulder, and another the wrist, 
and forcibly extend it, while you interlock tiie fin- 
gers of both hands just above the elbow, and pull 
it backwards, remembering that under those cir- 
cumstances, whatever degree of force is required, 
should be appliea in this direction. The elbow is 
sometimes dislocated sideways or laterally. To 
reduce it, make extension by pidling at the wrist, 
■while some one secures the arm above, then push 
the bone into its place, either inwards or outwards, 
as may be required. After the reduction of a dis- 
locatod elbow, keep the joint at perfect rest for 
five or six days, and then move it gently. If i > 
flammation comes on, bleed freely, purge, &c. &c. 
Dislocation of trie -wrist, fngers, &c. 

Dislocations of the wrist, fingers, and thumb, 
are readily perceived on examination; they are all 
to be reduced by forcibly extending the lower ex- 
tremity of the part, and pushing Uie bones into 



their*place. If necessarj', small bands may he se.» 
cured to the fingers by a narrow bandage, to facili- 
tate the extension. These accidents should be at- 
tended to without delay, for if neglected for a little 
time, they become irremediable. 

Dislocation of the thigh. 
Notwithstanding the hi]) joint is the strongest 
one in the body, it is sometimes dislocated. As a 
careful examination of the part, comparing the 
length and appearance of the limb with its fellow, 
&c. sufficiently mark the nature of the accident, 
we will proceed to state the renaedy. 

Place the patient on his back, upon a table cov- 
ered with a blanket. Two sheets, folded like cra- 
vats, are then to be passed between the thigh and 
testicle of each side, and their ends (one half of 
each sheet passing obliquely over the belly to the 
opposite shoulder, while the other half passes un- 
der the back in the same direction) given to seve- 
ral assistants, or what is much better, tied very 
firmly to a hook, staple, post, or some immovea- 
ble body. A large, very strong napkin, folded as 
before, like a cravat, is now to be laid along the 
top of the thigh, so that its middle will Le just 
above the knee, where it is to be well secured by 
many turns of a bandage. The two ends are then 
to be knotted. If you have no pulleys, a twisted 
sheet or rope may be passed through the loop 
formed by the napkin. If you can ])rocure the for- 
mer, however, cast the loop over the hook of the 
lower block, and secure the upper one to the wall, 
directly opposite to the hooks or men that hold the 
slieets that pass between the thighs. A steadily 
increasing and forcible extension of the thigh, is 
! then to be made by the men who are stationed at 
the pulleys^ or sheet, while you are turning and 
twisting the limb to assist in dislodging it from its 
unnatural situation. By these means, properly 
applied, the head of the bone will frequently slip 
into its socket with a loud noise. 

If, however, you are foiled, change the direction 
of the extending force, recollecting always, that it 
is not by sudden or violent jerks that any benefit 
can be attained, but by a steady increasing and long 
continued pull. Siiould all your eftbrts prove un- 
availing (I would not advise you to lose much time 
before you resort to it) make the patient, as before 
directed, excessively drunk, and when he cannot 
stand, apply the pulleys. If this fails, or is object- 
ed to, bleed liim till he faints, and then try it again. 
Dislocation of tlie knee-pan. 
When this little bone is dislocated, it is evident 
on the slightest glance. To reduce it, lay the pa- 
tient on his back, straighten the leg, lift it up to a 
right angle with his body, and in that position push 
tlie bone back to its place. The knee should be 
kept at rest for a few days. 

Dislocation of the leg. 
As these accidents cannot happen without tear- 
ing and lacerating the soft parts, but little force is 
required to place the bones in their natural situa- 
tion. If the parts are so much torn that the bone 
sliiis again oat of place, apply Hartshorne's or Dcs- 
sault's apparatus as for a fractured thigh. 
Dislocation of the foot. 
The foot is seldom dislocated. Should it hap- 
pen, however, let one person secure the leg, and 
another draw the foot, while you push the bone ia 
the contrary way to that in which it was forced out. 
The part is then to be covered with compresses 
dipped in lead water, and a splint applied on each 
side of the leg, that reaches below the foot. Ac- 
cidents of this nature are always dangerous; all 
that can be done to remedy them consists in the 
speedy reduction of the bone, keeping the parts at 
rest, and subduing the infiammation by bleeding, 
low diet, Stc. &c. 



MEDICINE. 



227 



i)f compound accidents. 

Having spolcen of the treatment to be pursued 
for a bruise, wound, fracture and dislocation, as 
happening singl)^, it remains to state what is to be 
done when they are united. 

We will suppose that a man has been violentl)' 
thrown from a carriage. On examination, a wound 
IS found in his thigh, bleeding profiisel}', his ankle 
IS out of joint, with a wound communicating with 
its cavity, and the leg broken. 

Ill tiie first place stop the bleeding from the 
wound in the thigh, reduce the dislocation next, 
draw the edges of llie wounds together witli stick- 
ing plaster, and lastly, apply Hartshorne's or Ues- 
sault's apparatus to remedy the fracture. 

If, instead of a wound, fracture and dislocation, 
liiere is a concussion or compression of the brain, 
a dislocation and fracture, attend to the concussion 
first, the dislocation next, and the fracture the last. 



Of amputation. 

As accidents sometimes happen at sea, or in 
situations where it is impossible to obtain a sur- 
geon, and which require the immediate amputa- 
tion of a limb, it is proper to say a few words on 
that subject. To ])erforra the operation, is one 
thing, to know when it ought to be performed is 
another. Any man of common dexterity and 
firmness can out off a leg, but to decide upon tlie 
necessity of doing so, requires much judgment, in- 
stances haviig occurred where, under the most 
seemingly desperate circumstances, the patient 
through fear or obstinacy has refused to submit to 
the knife, and yet afterwards recovered. 

Altbnugh in many cases raueli doubt may exist 
in determining whether it is proper to amputate or 
not, yet in others, all difficult}' vanishes, as when 
a ball has carried awaj' an arm. Supjjose foi- a 
moment while i-oUingin a heavy sea, during a gale, 
the lashings of a gun give way, by wliicli a man 
has his knee, leg, or ankle com|)letely mashed, or 
that either of tiiose parts are crushed by a fall from 
the topgallant yard, a falling tree, &c. The great 
laceration of blood vessels, nerves and tendons, the 
crushiiig and splintering of the bones, almost ne- 
cessarily resulting from such accidents, render im- 
mediate amputation an unavoidable and imperious 
<luty. 

If there are none of the regular instruments at 
hand, you must provide the following, which are 
always to be had, and which answer extremelj' well 
— being careful to have the knives as sharp and 
smooth as possible. 

Instruments. — Tl.e handkerchief and stick, a 
carving or other large knife, with a straight blade, 
a penknife, a carpenter's tenon or mitre saw, a slip 
of leather or linen, tjiree Inches wide and eighteen 
or twenty long, slit up the middle to tlie half of its 
length, a dozen or more ligatures, each about a 
foot long, made of waxed thread, bobbin, or tine 
twine, a hook with a sharp point, a pair of slender 
pincers, several narrow strips of sticking plaster, 
dry lint, a piece of linen, large enough to cover the 
end of the stump, spread with simple ointment or 
lard, a bandage three or four yards long, the width 
of your hand, sponges and warm water. 
Amputation of the arm. 

Operation. — Give the patient sixty drops of lau- 
danum, and seat him ou a narrow and firm table 
or dies';, of a convenient height, so that some one 
can support him, by clasping him round the body. 
If the iiandkerchief and stick have nfet been pre- 
viously applied, place it as high up on the arm as 
possible (tb*: stick being very short) and so that 
the knot may pass on the inner third of it. Your 
nstruments having been placed regularly on a 
table or waiter, and within veach of your hand. 



while some one supports the lower end of the arm,, 
and at tiie same time draws down the skin, take 
the large knife and make one stiaight cut all round 
the limb, through the skin and fat' only, ilien witii 
the ])en knife separate as much of tlie skin from 
the flesh above tiie cut, and all round it, as will 
form a flap to cover the face of the stump; when 
you think there is enough separated, turn it back, 
where it must be held by an assistant, while willi 
tlie large knife you make a second straiglit inci- 
sion round the arm and down to the bone, as close 
as you can to tlie doubled edge of the flap, but tak- 
ing gi-^at care not to cut it. The bone is now to 
be passed through the slit in the piece of linen be- 
fore mentioned, and pressed by its ends against the 
upper surface of the wound by the person who 
holds the flap, while you saw through tiie bone as 
near to it as you can. With the hooks or pincers, 
you then seize and tie up every vessel that bleeds, 
the largest first, and smaller ones nest, until they 
are all secured. When this is done, relax the stick 
a little; if an artery springs, tie it as before. The 
wound is now to be gently cleansed with a sponge 
and warm water, and the slick to be relaxed. If it 
isevident that the arteries are all tied, bring the flap 
over the end of the stump, draw its edges together 
with strips of sticking plaster, leaving tiie ligature 
hanging out at the angles, lay the piece of linen 
spread with ointment over the straps, a pletlget of 
lint over that, and secure the whole by the ban- 
dage, when t!ie patient may be carried to bed, and 
the stump laid on a pillow. 

The handkerchief and stick are to be left loose- 
ly round the limb, so that if any bleeding happens 
to come on, it may be tightened in an instant by 
the person who watches by the patient, when the 
dressings must be taken oft', the flap raised, and 
the vessel be sought for and tied up, after which, 
every thing is to be placed as before. 

It may be well to observe that in sawing through 
t.je bone, a long and free stroke should be used, to 
prevent any hitching, as an additional security 
against which, the teeth of the saw should be well 
sharpened and set wide. 

There is also another circumstance, which it is 
essential to be aware of; the ends of divided arte- 
ries cannot at times be got hold of, or being dis- 
eased their coats give way under the hook, so that 
they cannot be drawn out; sometimes also, they 
are found ossified or turned into bone. In all these 
cases, having armed a needle with a ligature, pass it 
through the flesh round tlie artery, so that when 
tied, there will be a portion of it included in the 
ligature along with the artery. When the liga- 
ture has been made to encircle the artery, cut ofl' 
the needle and tic it firmly in tlie ordinary way. 
■ The bandages, &c. shouhl not be disturbed for 
five or six days, if the weather is cool; if it is very 
warm, they may be removed in three. This is to 
be done with the greatest care, soaking them well 
with warm water until they are quite sott, and can 
be taken away without slicking to the stump. A 
clean plaster, lint, and bandage are then to be ap- 
plied as before, to be removed every two days. At 
the expiration of fourteen or fifteen da3's the liga- 
tures generally come away; and in three or four 
weeks, if every, tiling goes on well, the wouns 
heals. 

Jlmputation of the thigh. 
This is performed in precisely the same manuei 
as that of the arm, with one exception, ii beinj, 
propei to interpose a piece of lint between the 
edges of the flap, to prevent them from uniting un- 
til the surface of the stump has adhered to it. 
Amputation of the leg. 
As there are two .bones in the leg which have a 
thin muscle Ifetween, it is necessaiy to have an 



228 



tTNn^RSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



additional Knife to those already mentioned, to di- 
vide it. It should have a long narrow blade, with 
a double cutting edge, and a sharp point; a carving 
or case knife may be ground down to answer the 
purpose, the blade being reduced to rather less 
than half an inch in width. The linen or leather 
strip should also have tM'o slits in it instead of one. 
The patient is to be laid on his back, on a table co- 
vered with blankets or a matrass, with a sufficient 
number of assistants to secure him. Tlie handker- 
chief and stick being applied on the upper part of the 
tuigh, one person holds the knee, and another tlie 
foot and leg as steadily as possible, while with the 
large knife the operator makes an oblique in>iision 
round the limb, through the skin, and begir.uing 
at live or six inches below the knee-pan, and car- 
rying it regularly round in such a manner that the 
cut will be lov.'er down on the calf than in front of 
the leg. As much of the skin is then to be sepa- 
rated by the penknife as will cover the stump. 
When this is turned back, a second cut is to fte 
made all round the limb and down to the bones, 
■when with the narrow Haded knife, just mention- 
ed, the flesh between tliem is to be divided. The 
mid('le piece of the leatiier strip is now to be pull- 
ed through between the bones, the whole being 
held back by the assistant, who supj)orts the flap 
wliile the bones are sawed, which should b'j so 
managed that tlie smaller one is completely cut 
through by the time the other is only half so. The 
arteries ive then to be taken up, the flap brought 
dcwa and secured by adhesive plasttirs, &c. as al- 
read)' directed. 

Amputation of the fore-arm. 

As the fore-;a-m has two bones in it, the narrow 
bladed knife, and the strip of linen with three tails, 
are t-j be provided. The ii.cision should be straight 
rounil the part, as in the arm, with this exception, 
complete it as directed for the preceding case. 
Amputation offi,igers and toes. 

Draw the skin back, and make an incision round 
tlie finger, a lillle below the joint it is intended to 
remove, turn back a little ti;:p to cover the stump, 
then cut down to the joint, bending it so that you 
can cut through the ligaments that connect the two 
bones, the under one first, then that on the side. 
TI.e head of the bone is then to be turned out, 
while you cut through the remaining soft parts. 
If yoa see an artery spirt, tie it up, if not, bring 
down the flap and secure it by a strip of sticking 
plaster, and a narrow bandage over the wliole. 

Remarks. — To prevent the troublesome conse- 
quences of secondary bleeding, before the strips of 
plaster are applied over the edges of the flap, give 
the patient, if h : is faint, a little wine and water, 
and wait a fev. minutes ta see v/hether tiie increas- 
ed force it giv<;s to the circulation, will occasion a 
flow of blood; if it d.ies, secure the vessel it comes 
from. If tiiere is aconsid^rible flow of blood from 
the hc!'ov/ of the bone, place a small cedar plug 
m it. Should violent spasms of the stump ensue, 
have it carefully held by assistants, and give the 
patient large doses of laudanum; it may, in fact, be 
laid down as ;; general i'ule, tliat after every ope- 
ration of the kind, laudanum should be given in 
greater or less doses, as the patient may be in more 
or less pain. 



Of suspended animation. 
I'rom drowning . — The common methods of roll- 
ing the body of a drowned person on a barrel, or 
holding it up by the heels, ike. aie fviU of danger, 
and should never be permitted. If a spark of life 
should happen to remain, this violence world ex- 
tinguish it for ever. As soon, thei-efore, as the body 
is found, convey it as gently as possible to the near- 
est house, strip it of the wet clothes, dry it well, 



and place it on a bed between warm blankets, on 
the right s^ide, with the head elevated by pillows. 
Every part is now to be well rubbed with flannels 
dipped in warm brandy, or spirits of any kind, 
while a warming pan, hot bricks, or bottles or 
bladders filled with warm water, are applied to the 
stomach, back, and soles of the feet. During these 
operations a certain number of the assistants (no 
more persons are to be allowed in the room than 
are absolutely necessary) should try to inflate the 
lungs, by blowing through the nozzle of a common 
bellows, or a pipe of any kind, placed in one nos- 
tril, while the other with the mouth are kept clos- 
ed. If a warm bath can be procured, place the 
body in it. Clysters of warm brandy and water, 
salt and water, or peppermint water may be in- 
jected. 

All these operations, particularly rubbing the 
body, and trying to inflate the lungs, should be 
continued fir six or eight hours, and when the pa- 
tient has come to himself, small quantities of warm 
wine, wine-whey, li'^iudy and water, &c. may hti 
given to him, from time to time. If, after he has 
recovered, a stupor or drowsiness i-emains, (but 
not before) bleed him very moderately. 

Should the accident occur in winter, and the bo- 
dy feel cold, as if fn ^en, previously to applying 
warmth, rub it well with snow, ice, or very cold 
water. Above all tilings remember that perseve- 
rance for many hours m the remedies pointed out, 
may give you the un.Apeakable pleastwe of restor- 
ing a fellow creature to life. 

From cold. — Take the body into a room, the 
doors and vi-indows of which are open, and where 
there is no fire, and rub it with snow or cold water, 
if this can be procured in plenty, the patient, with 
tlie exception of his face, which should be left out, 
may be completely covered witli it to the thickness 
of two feet. After a while, friction with flannels 
and hot spirits ai'e to be used, as in the preceding 
case, and warmth very gradually applied. The 
lungs are to be inflated, as directed in cases of 
drowning, and when the patient is able to swallow, 
warm wine, ho. may be given in small quantities. 

If a limb is frost-bitten, the cold applications 
should be continued longer, and warmth be more 
gradually applied than when the whole body is 
frozen. Care should be taken to handle the parts 
carefully, so as not to break off the ear, tip of tlie 
nose, &c. 

From hanging. — The remedies for this accident 
are the same as in drov/ning, with the addition of 
taking away a small quantity of blood, by cupping 
glasses, from the neck, or by opening the jugular 
vein. 

From foul air. — Throw open the doors and win- 
dows, or take the patient inio the open £.ir, and 
seat him, undressed, well wrapped in a blanket, 
in a chair, leaning a little to the right side, place 
his feet or whole bofiy in a bath, and sprinkle his 
stomach with cold vinegar or water, and rub itim 
mediately with flannels dipped in oil. Clysters ot 
vinegar and water are to be injected, and whet, 
animation returns, continue the frictions, and give 
warm mint tea, &c. 



Of sivalloTving poisons. 

The first thing to be done when a person is dis- 
covered to have swallowed poison is, to ascertain 
what it is he has taken, the next, to be r\ eedy in 
resorting to its appropriate remedies. If ai.y one of 
these cannot be had, try some other without loss 
of time. 

Acidi. 

Oil of vitriol, aqua fjrtis, spirits of sea salt, ox- 
alic acid. 

Symptoms. — A burning lieat in the mouth, throat, 



MEDICINE. 



s^d 



RnJ stomach, stinking breath, an inclination to 
vomit, or vomiting various matters mixed with 
blood, hiccups, costiveness, or stools more or less 
bloody, pain in the belly, so great that the weight 
of a sheet cannot be borne, burning thirst, difficul- 
ty of breathing, suppression of urine, &c. 

Remedies. — Mix an ounce of calcined magnesia 
•with a pint of water, and give a glassful every two 
minutes. If it is not at hand, use flaxseed tea, 
• rice water, or water alone in large quantities, until 
the former can be procured. If it cannot be ob- 
tained, dissolve an ounce of soap in a pint of wa- 
ter, and take a glassful every two minutes; chalk 
or whiting may also be taken by the mouth, and 
clysters of milk be frequently injected. If the pa- 
tient will not vomit, put him in the warm bath, 
bleed him freely, and apply leeches and blisters 
ever the parts pained. If the cramps and convulsions 
eontinue, give him a cup of common tea, with an 
ounce of sugar, forty drops of Hoffman's anodyne, 
and fifteen or twenty of laudanum, every quarter 
of an hour. No nourishment but sweetened rice 
■water is to be taken for several days. In these 
cases never give tartar emetic, ipecacuanha, or 
tickle the throat with a feather, they oulv increase 
the evil. 

Mkalies. 

Caustic pot-ash, caustic soda, volatile alkali. 

Symptoms. — 'These substances occasion the same 
effects as acids, producing dreadful convulsions. 

Remedies. — Take two table-spoonsful of vinegar 

or lime juice in a glass of water at once, follow it 

up by diinking large quantities of sugar and water. 

Pursue the same treatment as in poisons from acid«. 

JMercury. 

Corrosive sublimate, red precipitate, Termilion. 

Symptoms. — Constriction and great pain in the 
throat, stomach and bowels, vomiting of various 
matters mixed with blood, unquenchable thirst, 
difficulty of urine, convulsions. 

Remedies. — Mix the whites of a dozen or fifteen 
eggs with two pints of cold water, and give a glass- 
ful every two minutes, with as much milk as can 
be swallowed, and large doses of ipecacuanha. If 
»fter the egg mixture is all taken, the vomiting 
loes not stop, repeat the dose, with the addition 
■»f more water. Leeches, the warm bath, blisters, 
kc. are to be used to reduce the pain and inflam- 
nation, as before directed. 

Arsenic. 

Symptoms. — These are the sait.e as produced by 
the mercurial poisons. 

Remedies. — Give large quantities of cold sugar 
and water, until a plentiful vomiting is induced, 
to assist which, ipecacuanha may be taken in con- 
siderable doses at the same time; barle}', rice wa- 
ter, flaxseed tea, milk, 8cc. should afterwards be 
employed. Oil is never to be used in this ease un- 
til the symptoms have considerably abated, or the 
poison has been ejected. 

Copper. 

The- symptoms occasioned by swallowing verdi- 
gris, are nearly the same as those of the mercurial 
poisons. The great remedy is large quantities of 
sweetened water. In addition to this, use all the 
means recommended for corrosive sublimate, Sic. 
Antimony. 

Antimonial wine, tartar emetic, butter of anti- 
mony, &c. 

Symptoms. — Excessive vomiting, pain and cramp 
in the stomach, convulsions, &c. 

Remedies. — Encourage the vomiting by sugar 
and water, and if after awhile it does not stop, give 
a grain of opium in a glass of the sweetened wa- 
ter, every fifteen minutes. To relieve the pain, 
apply leeches to the stomach, throat, or parts af- 
feeied, 



Sa^.ts of tin. 

Give as much milk as can be got down, and if it 
is not at hand, use large quanlilies of cold water 
to iTiduce vomiting. If the symptoms do not abate, 
pursue the plan directed for acids. 

Salts of liismiith, gold and zinc. 

Pursue the plan recommended for arsenic. 
Jjuvar caustic. 

Dissolve two table-spoonsful of common table 
salt in two pints of water; a few glasses of this will 
induce vomiting. If not relieved, drink flaxseed 
tea, apply leeches, &,c. as for acids. 
Sali-petre. 

Pursue the plan recommended for arsenic, omit- 
ting the lirue water. 

Sal ammoniac. 

Symptoms. — Vomiting, pain in the belly, a stiff- 
ness of the whole body, convulsions. 

Remedies. — Introduce your finger or a feather 
into the throat to induce vomiting, and give ])lenty 
of sweetened water. To relieve the convulsions, 
give the tea, laudanum, &c. as for acids, or the lau- 
danum alone, and to ease the pain in the belly, ap- 
ply leeches, &;c. 

Liver of sulphur. 

Symptoms. — They resemble those caused by salt- 
petre. 

Remedies. — Two table-spoonsful of vinegar, in? 
glass of water, are to be frequently taken until 
vomiting is brought on, after which, have recourse 
to leeches, blisters, &,c. 

Phosphorus. 

The symptoms and remedies are the same asbr 
poison from acids. 

Spanish flies. 

Symptoms. — Great pain in the stomach, with ob 
stinate and painful erections, accompanied by a dif- 
ficulty, or sup])ression of urine, or if any is pass 
ed, it is bloody, a horror of swallowing liquids, 
friglitful convulsions. 

Remedies. — Make the patient swallow as much 
sweet oil as he can possibly get down. Milk and 
sugared water are also to be freely used. In addi- 
tion to the plan recommended for acids, solutions 
of gum arable, or flaxseed tea, are to be injected 
into the bla 'der. If no vomiting is induced, put 
iiira in the warm bath, continue the sweetened wa- 
ter, and rub his thighs and legs with two ounces 
of warm oil, in which a quarter of an ounce of 
camphor has been dissolved. Eight or ten grains 
of camphor may be mixed with the yolk of an egg 
and taken internally. If there is acute pain in the 
bladder, apply leeches over it. 

Powdered glass. 

Stuff the patient with thick rice pudding, bread, 
potatoes, or any other vegetable, then give him 
five grains of tartar emetic to vomit him, after 
which, use milk freely, clysters and fomentations 
to the belly, with the warm bath; leeches, kc. are 
not to be neglected. 

Lead. 

Sugar of lead, extract of saturn, white lead, 
litharge, minium. 

Symptoms. — A sweet astringent taste in tlie 
mouth, constriction of the throat, pain in the sto- 
mach, bloody vomiting, &c. 

Remedies. — Dissolve a handful of Epsom or 
Glauber salts in a pint of water, and give it at 
once; when it has vomited him, use sweetened 
water. If the symptoms continue, act as directed 
for acids. 

Opium or laudanum. 

Symptoms. — Stupor, an insurmountable inclina- 
tion to sleep, delirium, convulsions, kc. 

Remedies. — Endeavour to excite vomiting by six 
grains of tartar Emetic, or four grains of blue, or 
thirty of wliite vitriol. Thrust a feather down the 

u 



230 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK, 



throat for the same purpose^ Nsver give -vinegar 
or other acids, until the poison is altogether or 
nearly evacuated. After this has taken place, a 
wine-glassful of lemon juice and water may be 
taken erery five minutes, along with a cup of very 
strong coffee. The coffee, kc. are to be contuiued 
until the drowsiness is gone off, which, if it con- 
tinues, and resembles that of apoplexy, must be 
relieved by bleeding. The patient is to be forci- 
bly kept in constant motion. 

JMushrooms. 

JRemedies. — Give the patient immediately three 
grains of tartar emetic, twenty-five or thirty of 
ipecacuanha, and an ounce of salts, dissolved in a 
glass of water, one third to be taken every fifteen 
minutes, until he vomits freely. Then purge with 
castor oil. If there is great pain in the belly, ap- 
ply leeches, blisters, &c. 
Tobacco, hemlock, night shade, spurred rye, &c. 

Remedies.'—A.n emetic as directed for opium. 
If the poison has been swallowed sometime, purge 
with castor oil. After vomiting and purging, if 
the patient seems drowsy, bleed him, and give 
vinegar and water. 

Poisonous fish. 

Remedies. — An emetic. If it has been eaten 
some time, give castor oil by the mouth and clys- 
ter. After these have operated, twenty drops of 
ether may be taken on a lump of sugar; vinegar 
and water as before mentioned. 



Foreign bodies in the throat. 

Persons are frequently in danger of suffocation 
from fish bones, pins, &c. which stick in the 
throat. The moment an accident of this kind oc- 
curs, desire the patient to be perfectly still, open 
his mouth, and look into it. If you can see the 
obstruction, endeavour to seize it with your finger 
iud thumb, or a long slender pair of pincers. If it 
cannot be got up, or is not of a nature to do any 
injury in the stomach, push it down with the han- 
dle of a spoon, or a flexible round piece of whale- 
bone, tiie end of which is neatly covered with a 
roll of linen, or an}-. thing that may be at hand. If 
you can neither get it up nor down, place 6 grains 
}f tartar emetic in the patient's mouth. As it dis- 
solves, it will make him excessively sick, and in 
consequence of the relaxation, the bone, or what- 
ever it may be, will descend into the stomach or 
be ejected from the mouth. 

]f a pin, button, or other metallic or pointed 
body hasbe.'in swallowed (or pushed into the sto- 
mach) make the patient eat plentifully of thick rice 
pudding, and endeavour to prevent him from going 
to stool for at least twelve hours. 



Of burns and scalds. 

There are three kinds of remedies employed in 
accidents of this nature. Cooling applications, 
such as pounded ice, snow, vinegar, cold water, 
lead water, &c. Stimulants, as warm spirits of 
turpentine, brandy, or any ardent spirits, and 
carded or raw cotton. 

Any one of these articles that happens to be 
nearest at hand, may be tried, although the prefer- 
ence is due to the turpentine or spirits, which being 
made as hot as the patient can bear it, is to be ap- 
plied to all the burned surface (so as not to touch 
the adjoining sound skin) until some common ba- 
silicon ointment can be tninned with spirits of tur- 
pentine to the consistence of cream, in which state 
it is to be spread on a linen rag and laid over the 
part, taking care, as before, not to let it touch the 
sound skin. 

If, however, (the rule is general) thisplan causes 
great pain and inflammation, it mfist be abandoned, 
and one of the others be resorted to, as the pounded 



ice, which can be readily applied in a bladder 
Equal parts of lime water and linseed oil, welv 
mixed, forms one of the most soothing of all appK 
cations. Should much fever prevail, it is to be re- 
duced by bleeding, purging, &c. but if on the con- 
trary the system seems to sink, wine, bark, &c. 
must be employed. 



Of mortification. 

From what has already been stated, it is evident 
that in treating wounds, &c. as well as diseases, 
one g--riit and important indication is to repress ex- 
cessive inflammation, which, if allowed to proceeci 
to a certain point, sometimes produces mortifica- 
tion or the death of the parts. 

Whenever, therefore, from the violence of the 
fever, heat, pain, redness, and swelling, you are 
fearful of its ending in this way, bleed, purge, &c. 
to as gi-eat an extent as the patient can bear. If, 
however, the fever and pain suddenly cease, if the 
part which before was red, swollen, and hard, be- 
comes purple and soft, abandon at once all reduc- 
ing measures, lay a blister over the whole of the 
parts, and give wine, porter, bark, &c. freely and 
without delay. If the blisters do not put a stop to 
the disease, and tlie parts become dead and offen- 
sive, cover them with the charcoal or fermenting 
poultice until nature separates the dead parts from 
the living, during which process, a gene "ous diet, 
bark, &c. must be allowed. 

There is a particular kind of mortification which 
comes of itself, or without any apparent cause. It 
attacks the small toes 6f old 4)eople, and com- 
mences in a small bluish or black spot, which 
spreads to different parts of the foot. To remedy 
it, place a blister over the spot, and give two grains 
of opium night and morning, taking care to keep 
the bowels open by castor oil, and to diminish the 
quantity of opium if it occasions any unpleasant 
effects. 

In extensive mortifications of the fore-arm, it is 
necessary to amputate. This, however, snould 
never be done, until by the repeated application 
of blisters to the sound parts adjoining the morti- 
fied ones, they are disposed to separate, which may 
be easily known by inspection. 

Directions for bleeding. 
Tie up the arm, placing the bandage a*, least two 
inches above the projection of the elbow joint, 
and then feel for the pulse at the wrist. If it is 
stopped, the bandage is too tight, and must be re- 
laxed. Select the most prominent vein, and feel 
with the tip of your finger if an artery lies near it. 
If you feel one pulsating so close to the vein that 
you are fearful of wounding it, choose another. 
Having set your lancet, (I allude, of course, to the 
spring lancet, the only one that can be used with 
safety,) bend the arm intbe precise position it is to 
be kept in while the blood flows. The cutting 
edge of the lancet is now to be placed on the vein, 
while you depress )the handle or frame just aa 
much as you wish the cut to be deep; by touching 
the spring on the side with your thumb, the busi- 
ness is done. To stop the bleeding, relax the ban- 
dage, press the two edges of the wound together, 
place a little compress of linen on it, and bind up 
tbe whole with a bandage passing round the joint in 
a figure of eight. 

Directions for passing tlie catheter. 
Take the penis of the patient near its head be- 
tween the finger and thumb of your left hand, 
(standing beside him) while, with your right, yon 
introduce the pomt of the instrument into the uri- 
nary passage, its convex side towarus his knees; 
while you push the catheter down the urethra, eft- 



deavonr, at the same time, to draw up the penis on 
it. "When you first introduce it, the handle will of 
course be near the belly of the patient, and as it 
descends will be thrown farther from it, until it 
enters the bladder, which will be known by the 
flow of the urine. If you cannot succeed while the 
patient is on his back, make him stand up, or place 
tiim with his shoulders and back on the ground, 
while his thighs and legs are held up by assistants. 
If still foiled, place him again on his back, and 
when you have got the catheter as far down as it 
will go, introduce the forefinger, well oiled, into 
the fundament, and endeavour to push its point 
upwards, while you still press it forward with the 
other hai\d. Force is never, on any account, to be 
used. Vary your position as often as you please, 
let the patient try it himself, but always remember 
it is by humouring the instrument, and not by 
violence, that you can succeed. 

Directions for passing bougies. 
Take the penis between your finger and thumb, 
and pass the point of the instrument, (which should 
be well oiled) down the urethra as directed for the 
catheter; when it has entered three or four inches, 
depress the penis a little, and by humouring the 
bougie with one hand, and the penis with the other, 
endeavour to pass it as far as may be wished. The 
patient himself will frequently succeed, when every 
one else fails. 



MISCELLANEOUS ARTICLES. 

To diminish inordinate inflammation. 

Mix I drachm of Goulard's extract of lead, or 
solution of sugar of lead in water, with 4 oz. of 
rectified spirit, and 6 oz. of distilled water. Make 
a lotion, which is to be applied to those surfaces 
where inflammation is very rapid. 

Another method. — Dissolve 2 drachms of sul- 
phate of zinc (white vitriol) in a pint of distilled 
water. To be applied as above. 

JMavsh-malloia fomentation. 

Boil together for a quarter of an hour, an ounce 
of dried marsh-mallow root, with ^ an oz. of cha- 
momile flowers in a pint of water; strain through a 
cloth. The fomenting flannels should be S[)rink- 
led with S|)irits, just before they are applied to the 
inflamed part. 

Fomentation of poppies. 

Bruise 4 ounces of dried poppy heads, and then 
boil them in 6 pints of water, until a quart only 
remains after straining. This fomentation is to be 
applied to inflamed parts, where there is much 
pain, but which are required to suppurate 
Refrigerant lotion. 

Mix together equal parts of acetated water of am- 
monia aud tincture of camphor; which apply to the 
inflamed joint or other part. 

Another. — Dissolve an ounce of muriate of am- 
monia in 4 ounces of common vinegar, and add 10 
ounces of water, to be applied with or without a 
cloth to inflamed surfaces. 

Another. — Mix together 2 ounces of rectified 
spirit, and 5 ounces of acetated water of ammonia. 
Sedative lotion. 

Dissolve half a drachm of sugar of lead in 4 oz. 
of distilled vinegar, and then add an oimee of com- 
mon spirits with a pint of water. Linen cloths 
dipped in this lotion are to be applied to inflamed 
joints, Ifcc. 

Cold and sedative cataplasm. 

Take of goulard water a tlrachm and a half, rec- 
<fied spirit 2 ounces, water a pint: These are tt > 
e mixed with a sufficient quantitj' of the crumb "ii' 



MEDICINE. 231 

a new loaf, so as to form a cataplasm, to be applied 
at night to inflamed parts. 

Another. — Mix with crumb of brend as above, 1 
drachm of goulard water (or solution of sugar of 
lead) and a pint of common water that has been 
boiled. 

Cataplasm to hasten supfmrution. 

Make 2 parts of finely-powdered bran, and 1 
part of linseed meal, into a poultice, with boiling 
water. A little oil should be spread over the sur- 
face, just before it is applied. 

Another. — Take of crumb of bread and linseed 
meal, equal parts. Make them into a poultice with 
boiling milk. 

Linseed cataplasm. 

Stir linseed flour into boiling water, in sufficient 
quantity to form a cataplasm of proper consistency, 
and before application, smear the surface with a 
little olive or linseed oil. If irritation, with great 
pain and tension, or hardness, should prevail, it 
will be necessary to substitute a decoction of pop- 
py heads for the common water. This poultice 
is in general use in all tne hospitals. 
Embrocation for sprains. 

Shake in a phial, until they become white like 
milk, 10 drachms of olive oil, with 2 drachms of 
spirit of hartshorn (water of ammonia); then add 4 
drachms of oil of turpentine. When properly 
mixed, they may be directly used as an embroca- 
tion for sprains and bruises. 

Where weakness remains in consequence of a 
sprain, cold water ought to be pumped on it every 
morning; and a long calico roller should be bounrf 
firmly (but not too tight) round it immediately af- 
ter. By these means, strength will soon be re- 
stored. 

Another. — Digest 15 ounces of white hard soap 
scraped with a knife, in 4 pints of spirit of wine, 
and 1 pint of water of ammonia, or hartshorn (li 
quor ammonise), previously mixed in a large bot- 
tle. When dissolved, add 5 oz. of camphor. 
When this last is entirely dissolved, the embroca- 
tion is fit for use. 

This elegant and powerful stimulant was se- 
lected from the Pharmacopceia of the Middlesex 
Hospital: — for private use, the above quantities of 
the ingredients are to be reduced in proportion to 
each other, ae'cording to the quantity likely to be 
used in a family. If one-third only is required, 
use 5 oz. of soap, 1 of camphor, 16 oz. of spirit of 
wine, and 4 oz. of water of ammonia. 
Application of leeches. 

In the applying of leeches to the human body, 
success is rendered more certain b}' previously dry- 
ing them, or allowing them to creep over a dry 
cloth. To attract them, the part should be moist- 
ened with cream, sugar, or blood, and if this 
should be insutfioient, the leech may be cooled by 
touching it with a cloth dipped in cold water. The 
escape of leeches from the part is to be prevented 
by covering them with a wineglass or tumbler. 
Mums and scalds. 

Mr Cleghorn, a brewer in Edinburgh, has treat- 
ed burns and scalds with success, by applying, in 
the first place, vinegar, until the pain abates; se- 
condly, an emollient poultice; and thirdly, as soon 
as any secretion of matter or watery fluid appears, 
by covering the sore with powdered chalk. 
Jjinimejit for the same. 

Take of linseed or olive oil, lime water, each 
equal parts, or 3 ounces, by measure;'*mix, by 
shaking them together. This liniment is extreme- 
ly useful in cases of scalds or burns, being singu- 
larly efficacious in preventing, if applied in time, 
the inflammation subsequent to these; or even ia 
rentoving it after it has come on. 



232 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



Another. — Lime water with linseed oil has often 
been used, as a liniment, in the proportion of an 
ounce and a half of the latter, to 3 ounces of the 
former. This is a very excellent application. 

Another. — Many medical men are partial to the 
use of lime water and common spirits immediately 
after the accident, in pi'oportion of 3 ounces of the 
latter to 6 ounces of the former. This mixture 
should be applied cold, and the parts kept con- 
stantly covered with fine linen cloth dipped in it. 

Another. — Raw potatoes, scraped or grated, may 
be advantageously applied to recent burns and 
scalds, if nothing better can conveniently be had. 
But, perhaps, the best application, immediately 
after the accident, is common spirits united with a 
solution of sugar of lead, (liquor acetatis plumbi,J 
in the proportion of 12 ounces of the latter to 4 
ounces of the former. 

Another. — Apply oatmeal and cold water to the 
part affected immediately after the accident; keep 
it on as a poultice all night; next morning, if not 
serious, it will be quite well, neither blister nor 
wounds appearing. 

In all cases of burns and scalds, it is necessary 
to observe, that if fever should ensue, gently laxa- 
tive medicines ought to be administered. The best 
are castor oil and Epsom salts. 

If the injury arising from tiie scald or burn be 
very severe, suppui"ation should be promoted by 
fomentations and emollient cataplasms. The de- 
formity or constriction of muscles and tendons, 
which arises from burns and scalds, is to be ob- 
viated as much as possible by bandage and posi- 
tion. Particular attention must be paid to posi- 
tion where joints are concerned, and in burns in 
the neck. In all, the limbs should be as much as 
possible in their natural situation of rest; but the 
head, in particular, should be kept in a proper po- 
sition. 

Extensive burns and scalds. , 

In several bad cases of burns and scalds, the to- 
pical application of well carded cotton wool has 
succeeded in effecting a cure in a few days. For 
this discovery we arc indebted to chance: — The 
child of a negro in the West Indies, in consequence 
of falling into boiling water, was most dreadfully 
scalded; the mother, being ignorant of any mode 
of treatment, immediately laid the child on the cot- 
ton wool a'fte had been carding, and covered it over 
with it. The cotton wool adhered closely to the 
injured parts, and being caked by the (fischarge, 
completely defended the surface from the action 
of the atmotphere. In the course of a few days 
the whole P'eled off with the injured skin, leaving 
a healtliy stixfaoe covered with a new cuticle. The 
same treatroent has been adopted in Scotland, and 
elsewhere, in several bad cases of burns and scalds, 
with similar happy results. When the discharge 
exudes through the first layer, more cotton must 
be added to absorb it. In order that it may adhere 
to the injured part, the surface should be moisten- 
ed with oil. 

Cataplasmfor ulcers. 

Boil any quantity of fresh carrots until they are 
sufficiently soft to be beaten up into a smooth pulp. 
This cataplasm is equally beneficial in the cure of 
cancerous, as well as scorbutic ulcers. The latter 
are knovi'n by a brown colour, the discharge being 
thin and corroding, whilst .he fungous excrescen- 
ces which shoot out, bleed on the slightest touch. 
The ulcer is surrounded by a livid ring, or areola, 
in which small sjjots are frequently observed. The 
former are known by their very irregular surface, 
from several parts of which blood exudes. They 
are attended by shooting pains, and have a fetid 
discharge. 

Another. — Boi! any quantity of the bottom leaves 



of the common meadow sorrel, until they are saf- 
fieiently soft, then beat them into a smooth pulp, 
which is to be applied as a cataplasm to ulcers of 
the above mentioned nature. 

Another. — Poultices of the pulp of apples have 
been snccessfuly employed on the continent for 
these- ulcers. They are made b)' m'ixing 2 ogjice* 
of the pulp of boiled apples with the same weight 
of the crumb of bread. ■ 

Lotion for scorbutic ulcers. 

Mix from 1 to 2 drachms ot muriat-ic acid (spirit 
of salt) with a pint of water. This lotion is very 
useful in cleansing and stimulating the above men- 
tioned ulcers. 

Another. — Make a lotion by dissolving lialf an 
ounce of nitrate of potass (salt-petre) in half a pint 
of common vinegar; with which cleanse the ulcers, 
in question. 

Lotion for cancerojis ulcers. 

Mix together an ounce and a half of the tincture 
of muriate of iron, with seven ounces of distilled 
water. Apply as a lotion. 
Contagious ulcer, peculiar to soldiers and seamen. 

This ulcer generates a poison capable of con- 
verting other healthy ulcers into its own nature. 
It generally appears on the inner side of the leg, 
near the ankle. It exhales a putrid smell, whilst 
a thin acrimonious humour is discliarged, which 
excoriates the neighbouring parts; and fungous ex- 
crescences frequently shoot out. The limb be- 
comes much swelled and very painful, whilst the 
sore bleeds on the slightest touch. If not checked, 
the most fatal consequences are to be apprehended. 

Treatment. — The following remedies have beea 
found most efficacious, viz. the carrot and yeast 
poultice as mentioned before; a lotion of tincture 
of myrrh, 1 ounce; with 7 ounces of decoction of 
bark, in equal parts; 1 scruple of sulphate of cop- 
per, or blue vitriol, in solution with distilled wa- 
ter, or with 8 ounces of lime water; camphorated 
spirit of wine; camphorated vinegar; the cold salt- 
water bath; and the application of the juice of 
limes. If the sores remain irritable and painful, 
the liemlock and poppy fomentations are to be 
used; accompanied with the internal administra- 
tion of Peruvian bark, and other tonic remedies. 
If leers and sore legs of poor people. 

The lotion made according to the following 
recipe, has been found very beneficial in cases ot 
foul ulcers and sore legs of poor people. It has 
also succeeded (applied warm) in curing a fistu- 
lous ulcer: Take of green vitriol, ^ oz. alum, ^ oz. 
verdigris, ^ dr. crude sal ammoniac, 2 scruples. 

After reducing them to powder, put them into a 
new glazed pipkin, holding about a quart. Set it 
upon a slow fire, and increase by degrees till the 
ingredients boil up to the top two or th"ee times. 
Then take it from the fire and set it to cool. 
Break' the pipkin to get the stone out. Stir them 
round all the time they are on the fire with a lath. 
The dust and the smoke should not come near the 
eyes, nose, or mouth. Put a piece of the stone, 
the size of a walnut, to a quart bottle of soft water. 
To use, shake the bottle and wet a piece of fine 
linen four times doubled. Lay it upon a new burn 
or old ulcer. The linen should always be kept 
wet with it. [For this receipt the late emperor of 
France gave 10,000 louis-d'ors, after it had been 
approved of in his hospitals.] 

Malt pmdtice. 

Mix as much ground malt witl> half a pint of 
veast as will make a cataplasm of moderate con- 
sistence. This poultice is gently stimulating, and 
very serviceable in destroying the fetid aii<l disa- 
greeable smell which arises from foul ulcers and 
gangrenous wounds. 

Another. — A similar poultice, and for the sam» 



MEDICINE, 



233 



jmrpose, is prepared by stirring into an infusion of 
malL, as much oatmeal as may be required to make 
it of a proper thickness, and afterwards adding 
about a spoonful of yeast. 

Strong beer poultice. 

Stir into half a pint of ale, or strong beer-grounds, 
as much oatmeal or linseed-meal, as will make a 
cataplasm of proper thickness. This will prove 
an excellent stimulant and antiseptic for foul ul- 
cers. It should be applied as warm as the parts 
will bear, and should be renewed every six hours. 
Yeast poultice. 

INlix well together 1 pound of linseed-meal, and 
^ pint of ale yeast. Expose this cataplasm to a 
gentle heal, until a certain degree of fermentation 
takes place. This poultice is e.xcellcut for stimu- 
lating and cleansing foul ulcers. 

Charcoal pmdtice. 

1 o ^ a pound of the common oatmeal cataplasm, 
add two ounces of fresh burnt charcoal finely 
l)0uuded and sifted. Mix the whole well together, 
and apply it to foul ulcers a ii1 venereal sores: the 
fetid smell and unhealthy ap^rt;i.rance of which it 
speedily destroys. 

Treatment of ivhitloxv. 

This is a small tumour which appears under, or 
around the finger nail; it is attended with redness 
and pain, and very quickly advances to suppura- 
tion. After thj abscess is evacuated of the w."iite 
matter contained in it, it very soon heals of itself. 
The loss of the nail, however, is sometimes, 
through improper management, the consequence 
of the disease. 

In order to check the inflammation in the first 
Kistanee, and thereby at once stop the disease, it 
will be proper frequently to ap|)ly the following 
lotion, that is, until the pain and heat are abated: 
Dissolve one ounce of sal ammoniac in two ounces 
of common vinegar; adding one of rectified spirit, 
and twelve ounces of distilled water. 

Another application. — It sometimes happens that 
the ulcer, which remains after the discharge of the 
matter, is very indolent and difficult to heal. In 
such a case tlie following application will be of 
great service: Rub ^ an ounce of camphor, in a 
mortar, with an ounce of olive oil. Now melt 
over a gentle fire, 8 oz. of olive oil, with 4 oz. of 
yellow wa^, and stir in it ^ an ounce of a solution 
of sugar of lead (liquor idumbi acetatis); when 
this mixture is cold, pour the camphor and oil, in 
the mortar, into it, taking care to stir the whole 
well until quite cold. If suppuration should en- 
sue, marked by a white prominent spot, an open- 
ing should imiaediately be made, that the matter 
may escape. 

Whitloiu at the extremity of the finger. 

This kind of whitlow being more deeply seated 
than that of the nail, is more severe, and is altend- 
td by throbbing and acute pain. The matter, like- 
wise, often insinuates itself beneath the nail. To 
prevent suppuration it will be proper to keep the 
linger immersed for a long time in warm water, 
and to apply the lotion, recommended for the same 
purpose in common whitlow. If these fail in ef- 
Secting a resolution of the tumour, an early and 
rree incision should be made through the integu- 
ments, and carried to the bottom of the diseased 
part; after which the blood may be allowed to tiow 
*or some time: the opening is to be treated after- 
wards as a common wound, viz. by the application 
of adhesive plaster. 

Another remedy. — Dr Balfour, of Edinburgh, 
has found the application of pressure in incipient 
cases of whitlow to succeed in preventing the for- 
mation of matter, and speedily to cure the disease. 
He applies compression with the hand in a degree 
which the patient can easily bear, with the view of 
2 E 



preventing extensive suppuration, and llien a nar- 
row fillet. This operation, in severe cases, is re- 
peated thi-ee or four times in the course of tv<^ 
days, when the pain and swelling disappear, leav- 
ing a single speck of pus at tl»e point of the thumb, 
immediately under the skin. If vent be given to 
this by the slightest touch of the lancet, the wound 
will heal up immediately. 

White sioellbig. 

Dr Kirkland recommends a volatile plaster fcr 
this disease, made after tiie following manner: 
Melt together in an iron ladle, or earthen pipkin, 
2 oz. of soap and \ an oz. of litharge plaster. 
When nearly cold, stir in I drachm of sal ammo- 
niac in fine powder: spread upon leather, and ap 
ply to the joint as above. 

If the above method fails, and tilceration takes 
fdace, a surgeon should be applied to without delay. 

Ointment for cliaps and erupticns of the shin. 

Simmer ox marrow over the fue, and afterwards, 
strain it througli a piece of muslin into gallipots. 
\^ hen cold, rub the iiart aftected. 
liingivonn. 

Mr T. G. Graham, of Clieltenham, recommend* 
the lime water which has been used for purifying 
gas, as a very eflicacious remedy in the above 
troublesome disease. The head is to be well 
cleansed, morning and evening, with soap and wa- 
ter, and afterwards washed with the lime water 
from the gas works. The above lime water is a 
very heterogeneous compound, so that it is impos- 
sible to say which of its ingredients is effectual. 
It contains lime, ammonia, sulphuretted hydrogen, 
volatile oil, and probably several other compounds 
of a more complex nature. 

Scald head. 

Take of sulphur, 1 oz.; lard, 1 do.; sal ammo- 
niac, 2 drachms: Mix for an ointment, to be rub- 
bed upon the part aftected two or three times a day. 
Ointment for scald head, ring -worm, &c. 

The following ointment for scald head, ring- 
worm, and tetters, has uniformly succeeded in 
speedily eflecting a cure. 

Take of sub-acetate of copper (in very fine pow- 
der), half a drachm; prepared calomel, 1 drachm; 
fresh spermaceti ointment, 1 oz. Mix well to- 
gether. To be rubbed over the parts affected every 
night and morning. This ointment is also veiy 
efiicacious in cases of foul and languid ulcers. 
JjOtionfor leprosy. 

Wash the parts affected every morning and eve- 
ning with the following composition: Take of oxy- 
muriate of mercu.-y, 4 grains; pure pyroligneous 
acid, 1 oz. ; distilled water, 7 do. jNlix. 
Leprous affections of the skin. 

Dr Hufeland praises the excellent effects of the 
oil of the walnut kernel in lepi-ous and other cuta- 
neoL'i complaints. It is one of the safest, simplest, 
and most efiicacious external remedies that can be 
employed, as it mitigates the pains, and that burn- 
ing sensation, sometimes almost insupportable, 
which accompany those obstinate diseases; it never 
seems to have any ill effect, if attention be given to 
the eruption suddenly disappearing, or diving, as 
it is said, byrejiulsion — a circumstance which fre- 
quently happens by the application of metallic 
ointments, and which is often attended with much 
danger to the con.stitution; al-.hough it cures the 
cutaneous affection in a short time, it is not fol- 
lowed by any bad consequences, provided the erup- 
tion does not originate in any obstinate internal or 
general disease. In a child, which v.-as almost 
covered with chronic and suppurating pimples, 
against which internal remedies, baths, and mer- 
curial ointments, had been employed, without pro- 
ducing a perfect cure, the oil of walnut kernel was 
used with complete successi It is likewise an ex- 

U2 



234 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



cellent rsraedy in small cutaneous eruptions that 
are now and then observed in children. The oil 
might to be fresh, expressed without heat, and ap- 
plied to the aft'ected places twice or thrice a day. 
Itch oinUneni. 
Take of powdered white hellebore, 2 drachms; 
flowers of sulphur, 1 oz. ; essence of lemon, 1 oz. ; 
hogs' lard, 2 '^z. Alake it into an ointment. Smear 
all the joints for three nights with this, wash it oft' 
in the morning with soap and water. Repeat the 
smearing three limes at the interv;d of two days, 
and tiie most inveterate itch is certain to disap- 
pear. It w\\\ be well, at the same time, to take, 
night and morning, a tea-spoonful of an electuary 
of flowers of Gulpliur, mixed with honey or treacle, 
'I'o remove chilblains. 
Take an ounce of white copperas, dissolved in a 
quart of water, and occasionally apply it to the af- 
fected parts. This will ultimately remove the 
most obstinate blains. — N. B. This a|)plication 
must be used before they break, otherwise it will 
do injury. 

Another method. — Take a piece of fresh wood of 
the fir, made flat and smooth, and hold it to the 
fire till it becomes moderately warm, and all the 
turpentine begins to exude; then place the part af- 
fected upon this board, and keep it there as long 
as it can be well borne; after which, let the part 
be washed with warm water, wrapped up in flan- 
nel, and kept free from cold. This application is 
improper if the chilblain be broken, but if ap- 
plied before it has arrived at that stage, it has never 
failed in removing the complaint after two or three 
applications. 

Another. — Crude sal ammoniac, 1 oz.; vinegar, 
half a pint; dissolve, and bathe the part, if not yet 
broken, two or three times a day. If sal ammo- 
niac is not at hand, alum or common salt will do, 
but not so efTectually. If the chilblains are of 
very long continuance, and obstinate, touch them 
with equal parts of li(iuid opodeldoc [liniinentum 
saponis), AwiX tincture of Spanisii flies, or rather less 
of the latter. If the chilblains break, poultice or 
dress them with basilicon, and add turpentine if 
necessary. 

Jlnother. — The following ointment for this an- 
noying disease, lias been attended with the most 
beneficial cftect: Take of citron ointment, I oz. ; 
oil of turpentine, 2 drachms; olive oil, 4 do. Mix. 
To be well rubbed over the parts aftected every 
night and morning. 

Another. — The following has also been found 
verv beneficial in the cure of cliilblains, both in 
the incipient or inflammatory stage, or when ad- 
vanced to ulceration. When in the former state, 
the part should be well rubbed over with it by 
means of a warm hand, and afterwards kept covered 
with soft thin leather. When ulcerated, it should 
be applied on lint, sufficiently large to cover the 
surrounding inflammation. Take of spermaceti 
ointment, fi drachms; prepared calomel, 2 scru- 
ples; rectified oil of turpentine, 1 drachm. Mix. 
Trealment of corns. 
When small in size, they are to be removed 
either by stimulants or escharotics, as the appli- 
cation of nitrate of silver (lunar caustic), merely by 
wetting the corn, and touching it vvith a pencil of 
the caustic, every evening. Previous to this, the 
skin may be softened by immersion of the feet in 
warm water. 

Another mode. — Rub together, in a mortar, 2 oz. 
of powder of savine leaves, ^ an oz. of verdigris, 
and ^ an oz. of red precipitate, or nitric oxide of 
mercui-y. Put some of this powder in alinen rag, 
and apply it to the corn at bed-time. 

Jiemozial by cutting, SJc. — If the corn has at- 
rfiiiieil a large size, reinoval by cutting, or by liga- 



ture, will be proper; if it hangs by a small neck, 
the latter method is preferable. It is done by tying 
a silk thrend round the corn, and on its removal 
next day, tying another still tighter, and so on till 
completely removed. When the base is broad, a 
cautious dissection of the corn from tiie surround- 
ing parts, by means of a sharp knife, or razor, is 
necessary. This is done by paring gently, until 
the whole is removed, in all cases of cutting 
corns, th'; feet ought to be previously washed, as 
in case of making a wound in the toe, great danger 
may result from want of cleanliness in this respect. 
Mortification basin some instances been the effect 
of such neglect. 

Prevention, &c. 

Corns should be secured from pressure by me.ins 
of a thick adhesive plaster, in tiie centre of which 
a hole has been made for the reception of the project- 
ing part. This, with frequent immersion i/i water, 
and occasional paring, has often been found to re- 
move them, and always prevents their enlargement. 
An effectual mode of extirpation is by the ajiplica- 
tion of a small blister; tlie eflect of which will be, 
generally, to raise them, with the skin, out of their 
bed. When rest from labour can be obtained, this 
is an excellent method. Dress the blister (which 
need not exceed the size of a silver sixpence) with 
hogs' lard, or simple wax ointment. 
To remove -warts. 

Nitrate of silver (lunar caustic) cures those trou- 
blesome excrescences, called warts, in an extreme- 
ly simple and harmless manner. 

The method of using it is, to dip the end of the 
caustic in a little water, and to rub it over the 
warts. In the course of a few times, by so doing, 
they will b<. gone. The muriate of .immonia (sal 
ammoniac) is likewise a very useful remedy. " Out 
of twenty years' practice," says a medical corres- 
pondent in the Monthly Magazine, " I never knew 
the above remedies to fail. " 

M'^ard's paste for the piles. 

Pulverize finely, in an iron mortar, I oz. of 
black pep[)er, 1 oz. of elecampane-root, and 3 oz. 
of fennel seed, and n..x them intimately together. 
Now melt together, over a clear fire, 2 oz. of sugar 
and 2 oz. of clarified honey, so as to form a clear 
syrup, which add to the mixed powder in the mor- 
tar, and heat the whole into a mass of uniforin con- 
sistence. This medicine is to be taken, when the 
irritation of piles runs so high as to threaten fistu- 
la. The dose is a piece of the size of a nutmeg, to 
be taken three times a day; this is to be washetl 
down by u glass of cold water, or white w'lne. 
Extraneous bodies in the ear. 

These are to be extracted by means of a small 
forceps, or by Si ringing the ear with warm or tepid . 
water. But should such means prove unsuccess- 
ful, they may be suffered to remain without dan- 
ger, if they do not produce pain, as in a very short 
lime they will be forced out by the accumulating 
wax. Insects may be killed by filling the ear with 
oil, and afterwards removed" by syringing with 
warm water. 

To check hzmorrhage consequent on the extraction 
of teeth. 

Mr CuUen, of Sheerness, recommends the follow- 
ing method for the treatment of the above fre([uerit 
and sometimes serious accident: — "Takea small, 
fine, vial cork, of a size adapted to the socket 
whence the tooth has been extracted and ilie hae- 
morrhage proceeds; then, with a small dossil of 
lint, wet with aqua styplica, solution of sugar of 
lead, and put on ihe smallest end of the cork, push 
the cork into the bleeding orifice, pressing it firm- 
ly in, till it be, as it were, wedged in the socket; 
and keep it there as long as may be necessary, de- 
siring the patient to press against it with the teeth 



MEDICINE. 



235 



of the opposite jaw till the bleeding; be stopped, 
which it is almost instantly. This acts as a tour- 
niquet, and gives time to use whatever othei- means 
mav be deemed requisite; but it is seldom that any 
diing else is required." 

Remedies for diseases of the teeth. 

If hollow or decayed, apnly compound tincture 
vt' henjamin, or some essential oil, on cotton, to 
the part; or pills with camphor and opium; or 
chew the roots of pellitory of Spain. Some burn 
the nerve with vitriolic or nitrouff' acid, or a hot 
iron.-^-JUedical Pockei Book. 

Collyria, or eye-waters. 

Take of extract of lead, 10 drcps, rose-water, 6 
02. Mix, and wash the eyes night and morn- 
ing. 

Another. — Take of extract of lead, 10 drops, 
spirit of camphor, 20 drops, I'ose-Avater, half a 
,)int. Mix. This eye water is extremely useful 
in ophthalmia, attended with much inflammation. 

Another. — Taice of opium, 10 grains, camphor, 
6 grains, boiling water, 12 oz. ; rub the opium nnd 
camphor with the boiling water, and strain. This 
collyrium abates the pain and irritation attendant 
on severe cases of inflammation of the eyes. 

Another. — Take of white vitriol, ^ drachn., spi- 
rits of camphor, 1 drachm, warm water, 2 oz. 
rose-water, 4 oz. Dissolve the vitriol in the warm 
water, and add the spirit of camphor and rose- 
water. This is a useful collyrium in the chronic 
state of ophthalmia, or what is generally called 
weakness of the eyes, after inflammation. 

Another. — Dissolve 10 grains of soft extract of 
opium in 6 oz. of warm distilled water; strain 
through fine linen, and then add 2 oz. of liquor of 
acetate of ammonia. Where the pain is great, this 
collyrium will be productive of great relief. 

Another. — Make a lotion for the inflamed eyes 
with 20 drops of tincture of camphor, 10 drops of 
solution of sugar of lead, 1 oi Goulard's extract, 
and 7 oz. of distilled water. If the pain is very 
distressing, a drop of the vinous tincture of opium 
may be conveyed twice a day into the eye, by 
means of a feather. This is an eft'cctual means of 
obtaining relief. 

Another.— -Max. together one ounce of the liquor 
of acetate of ammonia, and 7 oz. of distilled rose- 
water. 

Another. — When the eye is merely weak, fre- 
juent ablation with cold water, either in a basin 
)r by means of an eye-cup, of green glass, will be 
if great use. At night a very cooling cataplasm, 
)r poultice, may be made of crumb of bread soak- 
j(l in a pint and a half of cold water, in which a 
Irachm of alum has previously been dissolved. 
This is to be applied over the eyes in a handker- 
phief when going to bed. 

For injiammation of the eye-lids. 

The following ointment has been found exceed- 
ingly beneficial in inflammations of the eye-ball 
and edges of the eye-lids, which are become v^ry 
prevalent in the metropolis. Take of prepared 
calomel, 1 scruple, spermaceti ointment, ^ oz. 
Mix them well together in a glass mortar; apply a 
small quantity to each corner of the eye, every 
night and morning, and also to the edges of the 
lids, if they are aftected. If this should not even- 
tually remove the inflammation, liie following lo- 
tion may be applied three or four times a day, by 
means of an eye-cup. The bowels should be kept 
in a laxative stale, by taking occasionally a ^ of an 
02. of the Cheltenham or Epsom salts. 

Lotion to be used at the same time. 

Take of acetated zinc, 6 grains, rose-water, 
(fresh) 6 oz. Mix. Before the ointment is applied to 
the corners of the eyes, wash them with this lotion. 
These remedies have uniformly succeeded in every 



case of inflammation of the eyes to which they have 
been applied. 

Treatment of styes. 
These are small abscesses seated in the edge of 
the eyelid, and produced from the obstruction ot 
very minute glands. They are often attended with 
much heat and pain, and "always with great incon 
venience. If they do not suppurate quickly, a 
small poultice of bread and milk is to be applied 
warm. When the matter is formed, an opening 
should be made with the point of a lancet, and a 
small portion of weak citrine ointiaent is after- 
wards to be applied. 

Infusion of senna. 
Take of senna, 3 drachms, lesser cardamom seeds, 
husked and bruised, \ do.; boiling water, as much 
as will yield a filtered infusion of 6 oz. Digest 
for an hour, and filter, when cold. 

This is a well contrived purgative infusion, the 
aromatic correcting the di-astic effects of the sen- 
na. It is of advantage that it should be used fresh 
prepared, as it is apt to spoil very quickly. 
Tartarized infusion oj senna. 
Take of senna, 1 J oz. coriander seeds, bruised, 
J oz. crystals of tartar, 2 drachms, distilled water, 
1 pint. Dissolve the crystals of tartar by boiling 
in the water; then pour the liquor, as yet boiling, 
on the senna and seeds. Macerate for an hour, iti 
a covered vessel, and strain when cold. The addi 
tion of the crystals of tartar renders the taste of 
the senna less unpleasant, and also promotes its 
action. The quantity to take as a purge, is from 
^an oz. to I oz. early in the morning. 
Electuary of senna. 
Take of senna, 8 oz. coriander seeds, 4 oz. li- 
quorice, 4 oz. figs, 1 lb. pulp of tamarinds, cassia 
fistula, and prunes, of each ^ lb. double refined 
sugar, 2^ lbs. Powder the senna with the corian- 
der seeds, and sift out 10 oz. of the mixed pow- 
der; boil the remainder with the figs and liquorice, 
in 4 lbs. of water, to one half; express, and strain 
the liquor, which is then to be evaporated to the 
weight of about l^lb.; dissolve the sugar in it, 
add this syrup, by degrees, to the pulps; and last- 
ly, mix in the powder. 

This electuaiy is a very convenient laxative, and 
has long been in common use among practitioners. 
Taken to the size of a nutmeg, or more, as occa- 
sion may require, it is an excellent laxative for 
loosening the belly in costive habits. 
Compound colocyulh pills. 
Take of pith of colocynth, cut small, 6 drachms, 
hepatic aloes, 1 1-2 oz. soammony, 1-2 oz. lesser 
cardamom seeds, husked and bruised, I drachm; 
Castile soap, softened with warm water, so as to 
have a gelatinoiib consistence, 3 drachms; vvarm 
water, 1 pint. Digest the colocynth in the water, 
in a covered vessel, with a moderate heat, for 4 
days. To the liquor, expressed and fiUered, add 
the aloes and scammony, separately, reduced to 
powder; then evaporate the mixture to a proper 
thickness for making pills, having added, tjwards 
the end of the evaporation, the soap-jelly and pow- 
dered seeds, and mix all the ingredients thorough- 
ly together. 

These pills are much used as warm and stomachic 
laxatives; they arc well suited for costiveness, so 
often attendant on people of sedentary lives, and, 
upon the whole, are one of the most useful articles 
in the materia raedica. 

Aloetic pills. 

Take of socotrine aloes, powdered, 1 oz. extract 

of gentian, ^ oz. oil of caraway seeds, 2 scruples, 

s)'rup of ginger, as much as is suffii;ient. Beat 

them together. The dose is about ten grains. 

Compound aloetic pills. 

Take of hepatic aloes, 1 oz. ginger root in pi "v 



236 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



der, 1 drachm, soap, halt' oz. essence of pepper- 
mint, half drachm. Powder the aloes with the 
gmger, then add the soap and the oil, so as to form 
an intimate mixture. This is an excellent purge 
for costive habits, in the dose of from 5 to 10 grs. 
Compound rhubarb pills. 

Take of rhubarb, in powder, 1 oz. socotrine 
aloes, 6 drachms, mj'rrh, half oz. volatile oil of 
peppermint, half drachm. Make them into a mass, 
with a sufficient quantitj' of sj'rup of orange peel. 
These pills afe intended for moderately warming 
and strengthening the stomach, and gently opening 
the belly. A scruple of the mass may be taken 
night and morning. 
Purgative powder, formerly called hiera picra. 

Take of socotrine'aloes, 1 lb. white canella, 3 
oz. Powder them separately, and then mix them. 
The spicy canella acts as a corrigent to the aloes; 
but the compound is more adapted to be formed 
into pills than to be used in the state of powder. 
It is a convenient medicine for costive habits, not 
suoject to the piles. Dose from 10 grains to a scru- 
ple at bed time. 

Mild purgative emulsion. 

Take of manna and oil of a-lmonds, each 1 oz. 
prepared kali, 12 grs. cinnamon and rose water, 
each 3 oz. Mix carefully the oil, kali, and man- 
na together, gradually pouring the liquids to form 
an emulsion, of which take two table-spoonsful 
night and morning. 

Electuary for the piles. 

Take of the electuary of senna, 1^ oz. washed 
flowers of sulphur, 4drs. vitriolated kali, in pow- 
der, 1 do. syrup of roses, as much as is sufficient. 
Make into an electuary, of which take the size of 
a nutmeg, going to bed, as may be required. This 
is an excellent remedy for persons who have the 
piles, or are subject to their return. 
Castor oil clyster. 

Take of castor oil, 2 ounces, 1 egg; mix them 
well, and then add gruel, 8 oz. which will ojierate 
very mildly, and is efficacious in case of worms. 
Purging clyster. 

Take of manna, 1 oz. Dissolve in 10 oz. by 
measure, of compound decoction of chamomile; 
then add of olive oil, 1 oz. sulphate of magnesia, 
^ ounce. Mix and let it be given directly. 



REMEDIES roR COUGUS AND COLDS. 

Paregoric elixir, or camphorated tincture of opium. 

Take of hard purified opium, in powder, ben- 
zoic acid, each, 1 drachm, camphor, 2 scruples, 
essential oil of aniseed, 1 drachm, proof spirit of 
•wine, 2 pints. Digest for 10 days, and strain. In 
this formula, the virtues of the opium and the cam- 
phor are combined. It derives an agreeable flavour 
from the acid of benzoin and essential oil. The 
latter will also render it more stimulating. It was 
origin.sjlv prescribed under the title of elixir asth- 
maticum', which it does not ill deserve. Ic con- 
tributes to allay the tickling which provokes fre- 
quent coughing, and at the same time, it opens the 
breast, and gives greater liberty of breathing. It 
is given to children against the ohincough, &c. in 
doses of from 5 drops to 20; to adults, from 20 to 
100. Half an ounce, by measure, contains about a 
grain of opium. 

Expectorant pills. 

Take of dried root ot squills, in fine powder, I 
scruple, gum ammoniac, lesser cardamom seeds, in 
powder, extract of liquorice, each 1 di-achm. Form 
them into a mass with simple syrup. This is an 
elegant and commodious form for the exhibition of 
squills, whether for promoting expectoration, or 
witli the other intentions to which that medicine 



is applied. The dose is from 10 grains to 1 scru» 
pie, three times a day. 

J^apohon's pectoral pills. 

The following recipe was copied from one in the 
possession of the late emperor of France, and was 
a very favourite remedy with Napoleon for diffi- 
culty of breathing, or oppression of the chest, 
arising from a collection of mucus in the air cells 
and vessels of tlie lungs, and in the gullet. Con- 
siderable benefit has been derived from them in 
many similar cases. Take of ipecacuanha root, iu 
powder, 30 grains, squill root, in powder, gum 
ammoniac, do. each 2 scruples, mucilage of gum 
arabic, sufficient to form a mass. To be divided 
into 24 pills; 2 to be taken every night and morn- 
ing. 

Dr Ratcliffe^s cough mixture. 

Mix together 4 drachms of syrup of squills, 4 
drachms of elixir of paregoric, 4 drachms of syru|) 
of poppies. Of this take a tea-spoonful in a little 
tea or warm water, as occasion requires. 
Dr JMunro^s cough medicine. 

Take 4dracl»ms of paregoric elixir,. 2 drachms 
of sulphuric ether, 2 drachms of tincture of tolu. 
Mix, and take a tea-spoonful niglit and morning, 
or wuen tiie cough is troublesome,, in a little milk- 
warm water. 

Simple remedy for coughs. 

Take of boiling water, half a pint, black cur- 
rant jelly, a dessert-spoonful, sweet spirit of nitre, 
a tea-spoonful. Mix the jelly in the water first, 
till it is quite dissolved, and add the nitre last. 
Take a dessert spoonful-of the mixture at night, 
going to bed, or when tiie cough is troublesome. 
The mixture should be made and kept in a tea-pot, 
or other covered vessel. 

Remedy for chrnnic cough. 

Ihe following is very serviuenble in common ob- 
stinate coughs, unattended witli fever. Tidie of 
tincture of tolu, 3 drachms, elixii' of jraregoric, 
^ an ounce, tincture of squills, 1 drachm. Two 
tea-spoonsful to be taken in a tumbler of l)arley- 
water going to bed, and when the cough is trou- 
blesome. 

For coughs in aged persons. 

In the couglis of aged persons, or in cases where 
there are lai'ge accumulations of purulent or viscid 
matter, with feeble ex\)ectoration, the following 
mixture will be found liighly beneficial: Pour gra- 
dually 2 drachms of nitric acid, diluted in half u 
pint of water, on 2 drachms of gum anmioniac, and 
triturate them in a glass mortar, until the gum is 
dissolved. A table-spoonful to be taken, in sweet 
eued water, every two or three hours. 
Cough emulsion. 

Take of oil of almonds, 6 drachms, milk of d(., 
5 oz. rose water, gum arabic, and purified sugar, 
equal parts, 2 drachms. Let these be well rubbed 
together, and take 2 table-spoonsful four times a 
day, and a tea-spoonful upon cougnmg. This is 
far preferable to the common white emulsions 
formed by an alkali, which, uniting with the oil, 
produces a kind of soap, and readily mingling with 
water, forms the white appearance observed, and 
is commonly disgusting to patients, and unpleasant 
to the stomach; whereas this suits every palate, 
and removes that tickling in the throat so very dis- 
tressing to patients. 

Emulsion for a cold, £^c. 

Take of milk of almonds, 1 oz. syrup of tolu, 
2 drachms, rose water, 2 do. tincture of squills, 
16 drops. Make into a draught. Four to be taken 
during the day. This is an admirable remedy in 
colds, and also in consumptions, as well as in 
asthma. 

Gargle for thrush. ^ 

Thrush, or aphlhce in the mouth, will be greatly 



MEDICINE. 



237 



benefited by the frequent use of the following 
gargle. Mix together 20 drops of muriatic acid 
(spirit of salts,) I ounce of honey of roses, and 4 
ounces of decoction of barley. 

.Another. — Make a gargie of 2 drs. of borax, 1 
oz. of honey of roses, and " oz. of rose water. To 
-he used three or four times a dny. 

Gargle for sore throat. 

TaVe of decoction of bark, 7 oz. tincturt! oi 
myrrh, 2 drachms, purified nitre, 3 do. Make in- 
to a gargle. This is a sovereign method to dis- 
perse a tumefied gland, or common sore throat. 
By taking upon such occasions a small lump of pu- 
rified nitre, putting it into the mouth, and letting 
it dissolve there, then removing it, and a[>plying it 
again in a few seconds, and swallowing the saliva, 
I have, says Dr Thornton, for many years prevent- 
ed a sore thr'"'at from forming. 

For putrid sore throat. 

Takeof decoction of bark, 6 oz. diluted vitriolic 
acid, 1 drachm, lione}' of roses, 1 oz. Make into 
a gargle; to be used, mixed with port wine, fre- 
quently during the day. 

For iiiJla.mmatory sore throat. 

Take of nitre, 2 drs. Iioney, 4 do. rose water, 
6 oz. Mix. To be used frequently. 

Another. — Take of spirits of salts, 20 drops, 
honey of roses, ^ oz. water, 4 do. Mix. 
For ulcerated sore throat. 

The purified lignic acid, in cases of putrid ulce- 
rattiJ sore tiiroat, has been attended with the most 
decisive success. Its internal exhibition more ef- 
fectually allays thirst, and abates fever, than any 
other acid; and when applied as a gargle to inflam- 
ed or ulcerated sure throats, it has been found to 
disperse the inflammation, and to dete-ge the ul- 
cers more eiTectually than the infusion of rose 
leaves with the sulphuric acid, the gargle general- 
ly resorted to in those cases. The concentrated 
acid may be given in the dose of from 40 to CO 
drops in a glass of water three or four times a day. 
For the purpose of gargling llie throat, -4 drachms 
of the concentr'ited acid may be added to half a 
pint of water. 



MEDICIITE roU WOUMS. 

The male fern. 

The root of male fern lias long been esteem- 
ed a powerful remedy for worms; and its pow'ler 
has been sold under a fictitious name, as an infalli- 
ble specific for the broad or tape worm. Some- 
times it has been ordered to be taken without any 
mixture; atotlier times gamboge, soammony, mer- 
cury, and other purgative medicines, have been or- 
dered to be taken with it. 

In the year 1755, the late king of France pur- 
chased, for a large sum of money, the recipe of a 
medicine which was said to be an effectual cure for 
the tape worm, from the widow of a surgeon in 
Switzerland, whose husband used to adrainister it. 
On discovery it proved to be fern rjot, reduced to 
powder, which is to be taken in the following man- 
ner: The day before the patient is to begin to take 
the fern, he is to take a dose of some opening 
medicine, and after its operation to make a verj' 
light supper; next morning he is to take 3 drachms 
of the powder of the fern-root, in a cup of lime- 
flower water, and after It a little orange-peel, or 
some other grateful arornaiic; and if he vomits it 
up, to take soon after another full dose of the pow- 
der of the fern-root. Two hours a-fter this is swal- 
lowed, the following purging powders are to be 
taken, viz. 12 grains of resin of scammony, mixed 
with as much of the panacea mercuriaXs, (calomel 
Jigested in spirit of wine), and 5 grains of gam- 



boge, in powder; the dose being iViade stronger or 
weaker, aocording to the strength of the patient. 
Soon after taking this dose, the patient is to drink 
tea, and as soon as the physic begins to operate, it 
he perceives that the ttenia is coming away, he \f 
to remain on the close-stool till it has entirely 
passed; if tiie purgative should prove too weak, 
the patient is to take a dose of Epsom salts, and to 
drink freely nf broth. If the first dose of the fern 
powdei", and of the purging medicine, has not the 
desired effect, the powder and purge are to be re- 
peated next day; and if at any time the taenia is 
observed to be coming away, the greatest care mast 
be taken not to break it. 

IForm seed. 

Worm seed is one of the oldest and most com- 
mon anthelmintics, especially in the lumbrici of 
children. On account of their essential oil, ■'hey 
are heating and stimulating. They are given to 
children to tiie extent of 10 grains, or-^ a drachm, 
finely powdered, and strewed on bread and butter; 
or made into an electuary with honey i r trescle; 
or candied witli sugar; or difi'used through milk, 
and taken in the morning when the stomach is 
empty. After they have been used for some 'lays, 
it is customary to give a cathartic; or they are com- 
bined from the beginning with rhubarb, jalap, or 
calomel. 

To destroy ascarides. 

I'ake of socotrine aloes, 2 drachms, new milk, S 
oa. Rub them together for a c]3'sier. I'his is use- 
ful to destroy the ascarides, or little thread- 
worm.' 

Poxeder of tin. 

In a tea-spoonful of honey, or cnrrant jelly, mix 
a drachm of powder of tin, and take it twice a day 
fcr six successive mornings and e/enings, making 
altogether 12 drachms, or 1^^ oz. of the tin. A 
little rhubar'i, rr any mild aperient medicine, may 
be taken each alternafe night of the six. This is 
the quantity for an ad'ilt person, but would not 
prove too much for a child, >ve apprehend, as the 
tin does not act upon the bowels, but upon the 
worm itself. 

Oil ofturpe7itine. 

Dr Gibney, of Cheltenham, observes, that the 
oil of turpentine is almost a specific in every spe- 
cies of worms, and its failure, in tne practice of 
many physicians, he attributes to the improper ex- 
hibition of it. When the dose is not sufficiently 
large, it aifects the kidneys and skin, and produces 
no effect on the worm, or intestinal canal. He pre- 
scribes 1 or 2 drachms, at intervals, for children 
of .3 years of age, and 6 drachms for older children, 
and more for aduUs. He directs it to be taKen 
vdien t!ie stomach is most empty, and enjoins strict 
abstinence during its use. Begin with a gno'd 
dose eajtely in the morning, and repeat it every h' -lir 
for thtw or four hom s, as circumstances may in- 
dicate. Combine with it mucilage of gum arable, 
simple slnnamon water, and syrnp. And, in case 
it should not operate on the bowels as an aperient, 
take a dose of castor oil. This treatment is re- 
newed about every four or five days, for some time 
after the evacuation of worms, or until the faeces 
become healthy. 

Essence of bergamot. 

An Italian physician, of great eminence, has 
found the " essentia de cedra," (essence of berga- 
mot,) in the dose of one or two drachms, (mixed 
with honey,) more efficacious in destroying the 
taps, and also the long round worm, than the oil 
of turpentine or naphtha. 

For tape-worm tn children. 

Beat up 5^ drachms of rectified oil of turpen- 
tine, with the yolk of an egg, and some sugar and 
water, or common syrup. Give this to a child 



238 



UNIVEJISAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



having; tape-worras. Two doses are sure of ex- 
pelling them. 

i^o'' the long- round -worms. 

Take of tartarian southernwood seed, bri-ised, 
tansy seed, ditto, of each, 1 oz. Valerian root, pow- 
dered, a drachms, jalap root, ditto, h drachm, sul- 
phate of potass, l^ ditto, oxymel of squills, sufR- 
t;ient to form an electuary. A dessert-spoonful is 
to be taken morning and evening. 

Chng-^s ivorm lozenges. 

Efficacious as this domestic medicine is, it is still 
dangerous in unskilful hands. With tiiis precau- 
tion, the composition from whicii these lozenges 
are made, is staled as follows: 

'I'lte yellow lozenges. 

Take of saftVon, ^ an ounce: boil it in one gal- 
ton ot water, and having strained it oft", add of 
i&i mel, washed in spirit of wine, 12 ounces; 
w^hite sugar, 28 pounds; mucilage of tragacanth, 
sufficient to make liie mass. lioU this out of a 
sufficient thickness, so that each lozenge may con- 
tain one grain of calomel. If cut of any other 
shape than square, as round or oval, much of the 
mass will requii'e making up again and again; it 
follows, that in the square form, tlie mass would 
make 5760 lozenges, whilst the first cutting, in the 
oval or round, would only produce 2-3ds of that 
number. Dose, from one to six, according to age. 
7'/je brown lozenges. 

Take of the calomel, (as above) seven ounces, 
resin of jalap, 3^ pounds, sugar, pounds, inuci- 
'age of tragacaiitli, as much as may be found suffi- 
eient to form tiie mass, which must be cut out into 
5720 pills, or lozenges; thus, leaving in each, half 
1 grain of the panacea. The dose of these brown 
pills is from one to six, according to age and 
strength. The yellow lozenge is to be taken at 
night, the brown on tlie following morning. (Jold 
is to be avoided duiinirthe course. 



MEUICINKS FOR INBIGESTION. 

Gentian -wine. 

Take gentian root and dried lemon-peel, fresh, of 
laeh 1 ounce, 2 drachms of long pepper, and 2 
pints of iTiounlain wine: infuse without heat for a 
week, and strain out the wine for use. In com- 
plaints of tiie stomach, arising from weakness or 
indigestion, a glass of this wine may be taken an 
hour before dinner and supper. 
Chalybeate tmne. 

Take 2 oz. of filings of iron, cinnamon and 
mace, each 2 drachms, and 2 pints of lllienish 
wine. Infuse for tnree or four weeks, frequently 
shaking the bottle, then pass the wine through a 
filter. This wine is a remedy for obstruptiou of 
the menses. The dose is half a wine gl& taken 
twice or thrice a day. Lisbon wine, if s®i'peued 
with half an oz. of cream of tartar, is also beneficial. 
fovjerfid tonic. 

Take of decoction of bark, 6 oz. compound 

tincture of bark, 1 oz. bark, in powder, I drachm, 

calcined magnesia, 1 do. Form a mixture. Two 

table-spoonsful ai'e to be given three times a day. 

For debility of tlie stomach. 

Take of chamomile flowers, lemon peel, orange 
do. each 4 drachms, boiling water I pint. Let 
them remain for four hours, and strain. To the 
strained liquor add syrup of ginger, 6 dr. The dose 
is a wine-glassful, in the morning earlj", and repeat- 
an hour before dinner, for habits debilitated by 
drinking, or natural weakness of the stomach. 
Stomachic aperient pills. 

The pills made according to the following recipe, 
have been long prescribed as a dinner pill with suc- 
cess: Take of rhubarb root powdered, l^drschms. 



Turkey myrrh, 1 do. socotrine aloes, ^ do. extraai 
of chamomile flowers, 2| do. essential oil of do. 
If) drops. Mix well togetlier, and divide into 80 
pills. Two or three to be taken about an hour Ije- 
fore dinner. 

Tonic draught in cases of grfat debility. 

Take of the decoction of bark, 12dr:ichnis, tinc- 
ture of bark, 1 ditto, syrup of Tolu, g ditto, diluted 
vitriolic acid, 8 drops. Make into a ilrauglit, to 
be taken three times a day. 

Z'" Baiilie^s prescription for indigestion. 

Dissolve three drachms of suli)hate of magnesia 
in half a pint of the infusion of roses (made ac- 
cording to the London Pbarmacopoaia), and tlieu 
add iialf an ounce of the tincture of cascarilla. 
Three table-spoonsful to be taken twice a day; i. e. 
between the hours of breakfast and dinner, and in 
the evening. 

Abernethy^s prescription for indigestion.' 

Take of calomel (or sub-muriate of mercury), 
precipitated sulphurel of antimony, eacli I scruple, 
powder of gum guaiacum, 2 scruples, Spanish 
soap, as much as will be sufficient to form into 20 
pills, which are to be taken night and moi'uing. 
For mdigestion and< costivetiess. 

The following remedies for indigestion, attend- 
ed with heart-burn and costiveness, were piescri'b- 
ed by Dr Gregory, of Edinburgh: Take of carbo- 
nate of potass, 4 drachms, simple cinnamon water, 
pure water, each 6 oz. compound tincture of gen- 
tian, I oz. Mix. Three large spoonsful are to be 
taken twice a day. 

Accompanying purgative. 

Take of compound pill of aloes, with colocyntli, 
2 draciims. To be divided into 24 pills, two to be 
taken twice a week. 

Remedy for flatulency. 

Take of bay berries, 6 draciims, grains of para- 
dise, 2 do. socoU'iiie aloes and filings of iron, each 
2 scruples, oil of turpentine, 2 drachms, simple 
syrup, suflnicient to form an electuary. 
J)r Iteece''s remedy for flatulence and cramp in 
the stomach. 

Take of carbonate of soda, 1 drachm, com- 
])Ound tincture of rhatany, 1 ounce, compound 
tincture of ginger and chamomile, 3 drachms, cam- 
phorated julep, 7 ounces. Mix. Three tai)le- 
spoonsful are to be taken twice a day. 
j\''ight-7nare. 

Great attention is to be paid to regidarity and 
choice of diet. Intemperance of every kind is 
hurtful, but nothing is more jiroductive of this 
disease than drinking bad wine. Of eatables, those 
which are most prejudicial are, all fat and greasy 
meats, most vegetables, fruit, and pastiy. These 
ought to be avoided, or eaten with caution. The 
same may be said of salt meats, for which dyspep- 
tic patients have frequently a remarkable predilec- 
tion, but which are not on that account the less 
noxious. 

Moderate exercise contributes, in a superior de- 
gree, to promote the digestion of food, and prevent 
flatulence; those, however, who are necessarily 
confined to a sedentary occupation, should parti- 
cularly avoid applying to study, or bodily labour, 
immediately after eating. If a strong propensity 
to sleep should occur after dinner, it will be cer- 
tainly better to indulge it a little, as the process of 
digestion frequently goes on much better during 
sleep than when awake. 

Going to bed before the usual hour is a frequent 
cause of night-mare, as it either occasions the pa- 
tient to sleep too long, or to lie long awake in the 
night. Passing a whole night, or part of a night, 
without rest, likewise gives birth to the disease, as 
it occasions the patient, on the succeeding night, to 
sleei) too soundly. Indulging in sleep too late in 



MEDICINE. 



TJ'J 



the morning, is un almost certain method to bring 
on tiie paroxysm, and t'le more frequently itreturns, 
the greater strength it acquires; the propensity to 
sleep at tl)istime is almost irresistible. Those who 
are habitually subject to the attacks of tlie night- 
mare ought nevei' to sleep alone, but to have some 
IJersoiis near thsm, so as to be immediately awoke 
by their groans or struggles; and the person to 
whom this office may be entrusted, should be in- 
strncted to rouse the patient as early as possible, 
that the i)aroxysra may not have time to gain 
strength. 

Digestive pills. 
'Take of soft extract of quassia, 1 dr.; essential 
oil of j)epperrainl, 1 drop. Make into 12 pills, of 
which lake three an hour before dinner. These 
])ills are excellent to create digestion in habits in- 
jured by hard drinking. 

To improve digestion. 
Eat a small crust of bread every morning, fast- 
ing, about an hour before breakfast. 
To restore the appetite. 
Take of shavings of quassia, 2 drachms; boiling 
water, 1 pint. Let this remain in a close vessel 
until cold, when strain oflT, and add to the strained 
liquor, compound tincture of cardamoms, 2 oz. ; 
spirit of lavender, 4 drs. ; powder of rhubarb, 1 
scruple. Take three table-spoonsful an hour before 
dinner to civate an appetite. 

Jlloetic and assafxtida pills. 
Take of socotrine aioes, in powder, assaftEtida, 
soap, equal parts. Form them into a mass with 
mucilage tf gum arabic. These pills, in doses of 
about ten grains twi'e a day, produce the most sa- 
lutary effects in cases of dyspepsia, attended with 
hysteria, flatulence, and costivcness. 
For heartburn. 
This complaint is an uneasy sensation in the sto- 
mach, with anxiety, a heat more or less violent, 
and sometimes attended with oppression, faintness, 
an inclination to vomit, or a plentiful discharge of 
dear lymph, like saliva. 

This pain may arise from various causes; such as 
wind, sharp humours, ami uorms gnawing the 
coats of the stomach; also from acrid and pungent 
food; likewise from rheumatic and gouty humours, 
or surfeits, and from too free a use of tea. 

The diet should be of a light anim.d kind; the 
drink brandy and water, toast and water, Bristol 
water; no vegetables should be allowed; very little 
bread, and that well toasted. 

If heartburn has arisen from acidity in the fto- 
mach, it will be necessary, after a gentle emetic, 
to take 2 table-spoonsful of the following mixture 
three times a day: — 3 dr. of magnesia, I scruple of 
rhubarb, in powder; 1 oz. of cinnamon water, \ a 
dr. of spirit of lavender, and 4 (^. of distilled water. 
For heartburn, atteiuled by pain and flatulence. 

Mix together 12 grains of prepared chalk, ^ an 
oz. of peppermint water, 1 oz. of ])ure water, 2 
drs. of spirit of pimento, and 12 drops of tincture 
of opium. This drauglit is to be taken 3 times a day. 
For heartburn, attended by costive7iess. 
In this case, gentle laxatives, combined with car- 
minatives, are to be administered, mitil the cause 
is entirely removed. Take of coi>fection of senna, 
2 oz.; jalap, in powder, 2 drs.; compound powder 
of cinnamon, 20 grains; cream of tartar, 1 dr., and 
syrup of ginger as much as will form an electuary; 
of which the bulk of a walnut is to be taken eveiy 
iiight on going to bed. 



SIAHRIKEA, GOUT, IIHEUMATISM, &C. 

To check diarrhoea, or looseness. 
Take of the soft extract of bark, 15 grains; puri- 



fied alum, in powder, 5do. ; tincture of opium, 6 
drops. Make into a bolus, to be taken three times 
a day, in ha'f a glass of red wine. 

Another juethod. — Take of tincture of opium, 1£ 
dri.ps; chalk mixture, 6 oz.; cinnamon water, 1 oz. 
Make into a mixture, of which take a large table- 
spoonful every six hours. 

Another. — Take of powde> of rhubaih, 50 grs. , 
powder of chalk, with opium, 1 scruple; do. with- 
out do. 1 dr. TSIake into four ])apers, of which, 
take one night and morning. 

Another. — I'ake of tincture of opium, 20 drops; 
chalk mixture, 4^ oz. ; tincture of cinnamon, \ uz. ; 
cinnamon water, 2 oz. Make a mixture, of whicli 
take two table-spoonsful after every licjuid motion. 
Given in diarrhoea, and the looseness often attend- 
ant upon consumption. 

Treatment of obstinate diarrhcea. 

Take of bark, in powder, 2 scruples; compound 
powder of chalk, with opium, 10 grains. Farm a 
powder, to be taken three oi- four times a day. 
This is excellent in obstinate diarrhcea, first ev;4- 
ouating with rhubarb and coiumbo, equal parts, 3 
grains every four hours. 

Anodyne clyster. 

Take of tincture of opium, 2 drachms; decoction 
of barley, 8 oz. Make a clyster, to be thrown up 
directly. To stop diarrhcea and remove spasm. 
Opiate enema. 

Take of milk of assafretida, 8 oz. ; tincture ot 
opium, 1 drachm. To be injected as a cl\ ster at 
bed time. This is useful in disorders of the anus, 
which induce insufferable pain. 

liemedy for piles. 

Take of galls, in powder, 2 drachms; hogs' lard, 
J an oz. Make into an ointment, to be applied by 
means of lint to the external jiiles, or even pressed 
somewhat up the faiidanient every nigiit. This 
has done wonders in the ])iles, taking, at the same 
time, the following: Take of quassia, in raspings, 
2 drachms; boiling water, 1 pint. Let it remain 
three hours, strain; to 7 ounces of the strained li- 
quor, &dd aromatic confection, 1 drachm; ginger, 
in powder, 2 scruples. Take of this mixture, 2 
table-spoonsful at twelve and seven eveiy day. 
Fills for rlieumatism. 

Take of guaiacum (gum resin) in powder, soap, 
equal parts, I drachm, essential oil of juniper 
berry, 4 drops. Make into 28 pills; take 2 four 
times a day. This is an admirable I'eraedy. 
Ointment for the same. 

In America, an ointment of stramonium, made by 
gently boiling 6 ounces of the recentleaves (bruised) 
in a pound and a half of fresh hog's lard, till they 
become crisp, is in high repute as a remedy for 
this disease. I'he size of a nutmeg, Dr Turner, 
of Philadelphia, has found to remove 'rheumatic 
pains, after electricity and powerful liniments, 
with internal remedies, had totally failed; and I)r 
Zollickoffer says, that he has known the stramo- 
nium ointment to succeed in cases of rheumatism, 
after the internal exhibition oftl^ie tincture of stra- 
monium had no effect. P\r internal use he prefers 
a tincture of the leaves (made in the proportion of 
an ounce and a half of the dried leaves to a pint of 
proof spirit) to the extract. 

Draught for lumbago and sciatica. 

At a recent meeting of the Medical Society of 
Loudon, oil of turpentine was strongly reoom 
mended, as being almost a panucea for acute rheu- 
matism, 8«c. The formula in which it was admin- 
istered is as follows: — Oil of turpentine, 20 drops, 
decoction of bark, 1^ oz. 'I u be taken every 4 
hours. The use of the lancet and purgatives were 
generally premised. No sensible operation ensued 
from the medicine; but the patients were quicklv 
relieved of the complaint. 



240 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



Rhe^amatic paiiis in the face. 

M. Double has administered the sulphate of 
Peruviai; bark in several cases of acute pains in the 
face, ap[)roaehing to tic doloreux, with complete 
success. He advises it to be given in the dos^ of 
6 grains, dissolved in camphorated jalap, thi'ee 
times a day. 

Friction, comp-'essim, and percussion. 

Not only rheun..atism, but the cramp and gout, 
which bear affinity to each other, have lotg been 
greatly relieved l)y friction, wherever it was bear- 
able, but some cures were performed ujjon patients 
slightly attacked, by pertinaciously rubbing the 
parts day after day: to this method of obtaining 
relief, IJr Balfour has recently added those of 
compression and percussion, with complete suc- 
cess. Percussion at the sole of the foot relieves 
pain there and higher up the limb, and compres- 
sion affords a certain degree of ease. Compression, 
'lone upon the tendon of the heel, (grasping by 
the wafm hand between the finger and thumb), is 
sure to afford relief, as long as the pressure is con- 
tinued, at least so far as the knee. A bandage 
round the thigh gives instant relief to that part of 
the member; grasping, or repealed pinchings, leave 
the patient in com])arative ease. Percussion, by 
the patient himself, v ith his crutch, vipon the spot 
most affected, is very beneficial. Dr Balfour 
" pummels" the same part daily, until the cure is 
eiiected. 

Treraor, caused by lifting up the limb, is always 
•o be checked by passing a bandage round the 
ansle; and the reason assigned for this whole series 
of remedies is the excitement of certain ne/ves to 
action, or arresting that of others. I'his practice 
is by no means a novelt": it has long been employ- 
ed by the negroes up jn their European masters, by 
whom it is termed " shampooing." 
Remedy for the gout. 

Take of rhubarb, powdered, guaiac gum, nitrate 
ot potass, flowers of sulphur, each, 1 oz. treacle, 1 
pound. Mix well together. From one lo two 
teaspoonsful (according to its aperient effects) to 
be taken every night, with a little warm gin and 
wster. 

The Chelsea pe?isioner^s remedy for gout and 
rheumatism. 

Gum guaiacum, 2 drachms, rhubarb, pulv. ^ 
drachm, flowers of sulphur, ^ oz. cream of tartar, 
2 drachms, nutmeg, or ginger powder, ^ dr. 
Made an electuary with treacle, and two teasiioons- 
ful taken night am. morning; and if the fit of the 
gout or rlieumatisra is seveie, a gl.nss of hot rum 
and water after being in bed; if mucli fever, white 
wine and water, or hot gruel. To be continued a 
few days. If 2 spoonsful relax the bowels too 
much, then only 1. 

Gout cordial. 

The following is a valuable remedy for gout and 
spasms in the stomach. Take of the lesser carda- 
mom seeds, husked and bruised, caraway seeds, 
bruised, each, 2 oz. the best meadow saft.on, ^ an 
oz. Tiu-key rhubarb, thinly sliced, l^oz. gentian 
root, do. ^ of an oz. Mix, and infuse in a wine 
quart bottle of white brandy for a fortnight. The 
dose is a table-spoonful, with an equal quantity of 
water, to be taken every third day. 
The Portland poitider. 

Take of aristolochia rotunda, or birthwort root, 
gentian root, tops and leaves, germaad^jr, do. 
ground pine, do. centaury, do. Tske of \xA these, 
well dried, powdered, and sifted fine, equal weight: 
mix them well together, and take 1 drachix of this 
mixed powder every morning fasting, in ii cup of 
wine and water, oroth, tea, or any other vehicle 
you like best; keep fasting an hour and a half after 
it; continue this for three months without inter- 



ruption, then diminish the dose to J of a drachrr 
for three months longer, then to ^ a drachm for 
six months more, taking it regularly every morn- 
ing if possible: after the first year, it will be suffi- 
cient to take ^ a drachm every other day. As thia 
medicine operates insensibly, it will perhaps take 
two years before you receive any great benefit, sc 
you must not he discouraged, th-^ugh you do not 
perceive at first any great amendment; it works 
slow, but sure; it doth not confine the patient txj 
any particular diet, so one lives soberly, and ab- 
stains from those meats and liquors that have 
always been accounted pernicious in the gout, as 
champaign, drams, high sauces, &c. 

N. B. In rheumatism which is not habitual, a 
few of tbe drachrn doses may do; but if habitual, 
or of long duration, the powder must be taken as 
for the gout. The remedy requires patience, as if 
operates but slowlyin both distempers. 
Pradier^s cataplasm. 

Pradier's remedy for the gout was purchased by 
the Emperor Napoleon, pro bono publico, for 
ii2500: — Take of balm of Mecca, 6 dr. red bark, 
1 oz. saffron, ^ oz. sarsaparilla, 1 oz, sage, 1 oz. 
rectified spirit of wine, 3 lbs. Dissolve separately 
the balm of Mecca in one-third of the spirit of 
wine; macerate the rest of the substances in tlie 
remainder for fortj'-eight hours, filter, and mix the 
two liquors for use; the tincture obtained is mixed 
with twice or thrice the quantity of lime water; the 
bottle must be shaken in order to mix the precipi- 
tate, settled at the bottom by standing. 
Mode of application. 

The following is the mode of employing the 
remedy. A poultice must be prepared of linseed 
meal, which must be of good consistency and 
spread very hot, ot the thickness of a finger, on a 
napkin, so as to be able completely to surround the 
part aflected; if it be required for both legs, from 
the feet to the knees, it will take about 3 quarts of 
linseed meal. When iiie poultice is prepared, and 
as hot as the patient can bear it, about 2 ounces of 
the prepared liquor must be poured equally over 
the whole of the surface of each, without its being 
imbibed; the part affected is then to be wrapped 
up in it, p.nd bound up with flannel and bandages 
to preserve the heat. The poultice is generally 
changed every 24 hours, sometimes at the end of 
twelve. 



FUMI&ATIOSr AND VENTILATION. 

To purify the air in halls, theatres, and hospitals. 

Dr Van Marum has discovered a very simple 
method, proved by repeated experiments, of pre- 
serving the air pure in large halls, theatres, hospi - 
tals, &c. The apparatus for this purpose is nothing 
but a common lamp, made according to Argand's 
construction, suspended from the roof of the hall, 
and kept burning under a funnel, the tube of which 
rises above the roof without, and is furnished with 
a ventilator. For his first experiment he filled his 
large laboratory with the smoke of oak shavings. 
In a few minutes after he lighted his lt,mp, the 
whole smoke disappeared, and the air was perfectly 
purified. 

Simple mode of ventilation. 

Ships' holds are well ventilated when there is 
wind, by means of a sail, rigged out from the deck 
to below, like a funnel, whose largest orifice points 
to leeward. But in some situations, as prisons, 
where foul air stagnates, this method cannot be 
adopted. Therefore, the plan has been adopted 
of making tw,j holes in the side of the building or 
ship, communicating with the open air by a tin 
tube. Two pair of bellows are fitted up, the nozzle 



MEDICINE. 



241 



■of one being introduced air-tight into one of the 
tin tubes, and a leathern pipe nailed on the wall, 
over the other tube, to which it may be fastened 
'by wax thread. The other end of this pipe is to 
be made fast to the clicker-hole of the second pair 
of bellows: a luting of plaster of Paris, render- 
ing both ends air-tight. A common blacksmith's 
forge bellows will thus empty a space containing 
thirty hogsheads of foul air, and supply its place 
with good fresh air in a very few minutes. 
Air-pipes for ventilating ships, &c. 

Air-pipes are used for drawing foul air out of 
ships, or other close places, by means of tire. One 
extremity is placed in a hole in ihe side of a fur- 
nace, (closed in every part excepting the outlet 
for the smoke); the other in the place which it is 
designed to purify. The rarefaction produced by 
the fire, causes a current of air to be determined 
to it, and the only means by which the air can ar- 
rive at the fire being through the pipe, a quick 
•circulation in the place where the extremity of the 
pipe may be situated, is consequently produced. 
The air trunk. 

This apparatus was contrived by Dr Hales, to 
prevent |he stagnation of putrid effluvia in jails and 
other places, where a great number of people ai-e 
crowded together. It consists merely of an oblong 
trunk open at both ends, one of which is inserted 
into the ceiling of the room, the air of which is to 
be kept pure: and the other extends a good way 
beyond the roof. Through this trunk a continued 
circulation is carried on; and the reason why va- 
pours of this kind ascend more swiftly through 
a long trunk than a short one, is, that the pressure 
of fluids is always according to their different 
depths, without regard to the diameter of their 
basis, or of the vessel that contains them. When 
the column of putrid effluvia is long and narrow, 
the difference between the column of atmosphere 
pressing on the upper end of the trunk, and that 
wliich presses on the lower end, is much greater 
than if the column of putrid effluvia was short and 
wide; and consequently the ascent is much swifter. 
One pan of a single pair of scales, which was two 
inches in diameter, being held within one of these 
trunks over the House of Commons, the force of 
the ascending air made it rise so as to require four 
grains to restore the equilibrium, and this when 
there was no person in the houses but when it was 
fall, no less than 12 grains were requisite to restore 
the equilibrium; which clearly shows that these 
trunks must be of real and very great efficacy. 
German method of cooling and purifying the air 
in summer. 

In the hot days of summer, especially in houses 
exposed to the meridian sun, a capacious vessel 
filled with cold water is placed in the middle of a 
room, and a few green branches (or as many as it 
will hold) of lime, birch, or willow-tree, are 
plunged with the lower ends into the fluid. By 
this easy expedient, the apartment is, in a short 
time, rendered much cooler; the evaporation of 
the water producing this desirable effect in sultry 
weather, without any detriment to health. Be- 
sides, the exhalation of green plants, under the in- 
fluence of the solar rays, greatly tends to purify 
the air; but care must be taken that they do not 
remain in the apartment after night-fall, or in the 
shade. 

To fumigate foul rooms. 

To one table-spoonful of common salt, and a 
little powdered manganese, in a glass cup, add, 
four or five different times, a quarter of a wine 
glass of strong vitriolic acid. Place the cup on the 
floor, and go out,- takmg care to shut the door. 
The vapour will come in contact with the malig- 
nant miasma, and destroy it. 
2F 



Cautions in tnsiting sick rooms. 

Never venture into a sick room in a violent per- 
spiration, (if circumstances require a continuance 
there for any time,) for the moment the body be- 
comes coldi it is in a state likely to absorb the in- 
fection, and receive the disease. Nor visit a sick 
person (especially if the complaint be of a conta- 
gious nature) with an empty stomach; as this dis- 
poses the system more readily to receive the infec- 
tion. In attending a sick person, stand where the 
air passes from the door or window to the bed of 
the diseased, not betwixt the diseased person and 
any fire that is in the room, as the heat of the fire 
will draw the infectious vapour in that direction, 
and much danger would arise from breathing in it. 
Fumigating powder. 

Take of cascarilla, reduced to a coarse powder, 
chamomile flowers, aniseed, each, equal parts, 2 
oz. Put some hot cinders in a shovel, sprinkle 
this gradually on it, and fumigate the chamb^ of 
the sick. It takes off" all smell, and keepsj! TO in- 
fection. 

Preparation of acetic acid. 

Put 4 ounces of acetate of lead, in powder, into a 
tubulated glass retort, and pour over it 4 ounces of 
sulphuric acid. Place the retort in a sand-bath, 
the heat of which should be kept as uniform as pos- 
sible. Adapt a common receiver, over which there 
must be constantly kept a piece of wet flannel or 
cotton for the condensation of the gas as it comes 
over. Sometimes sulphurous acid gas will bc 
found to adulterate the acetic acid; this is easily 
known by the suffocating odour which it emits 
The best way to prevent this, is by a slow distilla- 
tion; or the whole may be distilled a second time. 
The acetic acid possesses a very pungent odour, 
owing to its volatility; consequently it should be 
kept in a well stopped phial. It is used as the 
basis of all the aromatic vinegars. 
Aromatic vinegar. 

Acetic acid may be mixed with camphor and 
aromatics, as in Henr3''s aromatic vinegar, in a 
quantity sufficient for a small smelling bottle, at no 
great expense. But it is the acetic acid which is 
useful in preventing infection, and not the aromat- 
ics, which are added for the pleasure of the perfume. 
Cheap aromatic vinegar for purifying large build- 
ings, manufactories, SJc. 

Take of common vinegar any quantity; mix a 
sufficient quantity of powdered chalk or commoa 
whiting with it, as long as bubbles of carbonic acid 
gas arise. Let the white matter subside, and pour 
off" the insipid supernatant liquor; afterwards let 
the white powder be dried either in the open air or 
by a fire. When dry, pour upon it, in a glass or 
stone vessel, sulphuric acid as long as white acid 
fumes continue to ascend. This product is similar 
to the acetic acid, known in the shops by the name 
of aromatic vinegar. The simplicity of this^ pro- 
cess points it out as a very useful and commodious 
one for purifying ptisons, hospital ships, and 
houses, where contagion is presumed, or suspected, 
the white acid fumes diffitsing themselves quickly 
around. 

I'o prevent and destroy the mephidam of plasterea 
■walls. 

Wherever a number of people are assembled, 
either in health or sickness, the walls become in- 
sensibly impregnated with infectious exhalations. 
Currents of air, when admitted, sweep and cleanse 
the atmosphere, bat do not carry away the mias- 
mata concealed in the porosity of the walls, which 
retain the infectious humidity of the perspiratioa 
of bodies, gradually condensing on their surface 
Quick lime may be substituted to destroy such 
mephitism of walls, and also to prevent the evil 
The most infected tads and sieves lose their snkell, 

r 



242 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



when mixed with the whiting or size of lime. 
Lime enters white-washing, and may become the 
principal substance of it, by substituting it for 
Spanish white. When made the principal ingre- 
dient of white-washing, it will prevent walls from 
being impregnated with infectious miasmata. The 
addition of milk and oil are requisite, for lime has 
no adhesion on walls, nor can a body or substance 
oe given to the layer. The slightest i-ubbing with 
a pencil brush will rub it off, and leave the wall 
naked. The cheesy part of the milk, with the ad- 
dition of oil, which makes a soapy body with lime, 
form, after the evaporation of the humidity, a dense 
coherent layer, or sort of varnished plaster, which 
overcomes the porosity of stone, plaster, brick, 
and wood. This wash has another advantage, that 
of checking the nitrification of walls, which the 
painting of them in water colours has a tendency 
to accelerate. 

To disinfect letters, 
f he best method of disinfecting letters, and 
other articles coming from places that are supposed 
to be visited by the plague, is to expose them to 
the fumes of burning sulphur, mixed with salt- 
petre. 



CAtlTIOlfS TO GLAZIERS, PAtNTERS, AND PLUMBERS. 

The following medical cautions were recom- 
mended by the physicians and surgeons of the Bath 
Hospital, to those who have received benefit by the 
Xise of the Batii waters, in cases where the poison 
(fi lead is concerned, as plumbers, glaziers, paint- 
ers, and other artificers, who work in trades which 
expose them to similar hazards, from the same 
cause; to be observed by them at their return to 
the exercise of tlieir former occupation. 

1. To maintain the strictest temperance, parti- 
cularly respecting distilled spirits, which had bet- 
ter be altogether forborne. 

2. To pay the strictest attention to cleanliness; 
and never suffer paint to stick about to daub their 
hands: and particularly never to eat their meals, 
or go to rest, without washing their liands and face 
with soap, perfectly clean. 

3. Not to eat or drink in the room or place 
wherein they work; and much less to suffer any 
food or drink to remain unused, even for the short- 
est space of time, in any part of a room while 
painting, or where colour stands; and not to work 
on an empty stomach. 

4. As the clothes of persons in this line (paint- 
ers, particularly) are generally much soiled with 
colour, it is recommended for them to perform 
their works in frocks of ticking, which may be fr( - 
quently washed, and c nvenJenlly laid aside when 
the workmen go to their meals, and again put on 
when they resume their work. 

5. Every busings which can, in these branches, 
should be performed with gloves on their hands; 
painters, in performing clean light work, would 
find gloves an inconvenience; but to avoid the evil 
here mentioned, the handle of the brash should be 
often scraped. Woollen or worsted gloves are re- 
commeniied, as they may, and should be often 
washed, after being soiled with the paint, or even 
with much rubbing against the metal. 

6. Caution is necessary in mixing, or even in 
unpacking, the dry colours, that the fine powder 
do not get into their mouths, or be drawn in by the 
breath. A crape covering over the face might be 
of service; but care should be taken to turn always 
the same side of the crape towards the face, and to 
dean or wash it frequently. 

7. All artificers should avoid touching lead when 
qot; and this caution is especially necessary for 



printers or compositors, who hai'e often lost tha 
use of their limbs by hancjling the types, when 
diying by the fire after being washed. 

8. Glaziers' putly should never be made or 
moulded by the hand. An iron pestle and mortar 
would work the ingredients together, at least equal- 
ly as well, and without hazard. It is necessar}' in 
working putty to handle it, nor is it usually per- 
nicious; cleanliness is therefore the best recom- 
mendation. 

9. If any persons,. in any of the above employ 
ments, should feel pain in the bowels, with cos- 
tiveness, they should immediately take 20 drops of 
laudanum, and when the pain is abated, two table- 
spoonsful of castor oil, or an ounce of the bitter 
purging salt, dissolved in warm chamomile tea. 
If this does not succeed, a pint, or two pints, of 
warm soap-suds, should be thrown up as a clys- 
ter. 

10. As a preventive, two or three spoonsful of 
salad oil, taken in a small cup of gruel, is likely 
to be of service, if taken daily, and steadily pur» 
sued. 



DISEASES PECUH AR TO FEMAtKS. 

Hysteric Jits. 

This complaint, called also the hysteric passion, 
appears under various shapes, and is often owing 
to a lax tender habit, obstruction of the menses, 
fluor a! bus, &c. 

In the fit, the patient is seized with an oppres- 
sion in the breast, and difficult respiration, accom- 
panied with a sense of something like a ball as- 
cending into the throat, which puts her under great 
apprehensions of being suffocated; there is a loss 
of speech, and generally violent convulsive mo- 
tions. These, with a train of hypochondriac symp- 
toms, are sufficient to determine the disease; to 
which may be added, frequent laughing and cry- 
ing, and various wild irregular actions: after which 
a general soreness over all the body is felt; the 
spirits are low; the feet are cold. The urine is 
clear and limpid, and discharged in great quantity. 
The hysteric fit may be easily distinguislied from 
fainting; for in this the pulse and respiration are 
entirely slopped; in that they are both perceivable. 
Cure and prevention. 

Nothing recovers a person sooner out of the hys- 
teric fit, than putting the feet and legs in wai-m 
water. 

When low spirits proceed from a suppression of 
the piles or the menses, these evacuations must be 
encouraged, or repeated bleedings substituted. 
When they take their origin from long continued 
grief, anxious thoughts, or other distresses of mind, 
nothing has done more service, in these cases, than 
agreeable company, daily exercise, and especially 
long journeys, and a variety of amusements. 

Regimen. — A light animal food, red wine, cheer- 
'ful company, and a good clear air, with moderate 
exercise, are of great importance in this disorder. 
Drinking tea, and such like tepid relaxing fluids, 
should by no means be indulged. 

The cure consists in whatever tends to strength- 
en the solids, and the whole habit in general; and 
nothing will effect this more successfuily than a 
long-continued use of the mineral chalybeate wa- 
ters, and inding on horseback. 

Anti-hysteric spirits. 

Take of proof spirit, I pint, sal ammoniac, 2 
ounces, assafcEtida, 6 drachms, potash, 3 ounces. 
Mix them, and draw off, by distillation, 1 pint, 
with a slow fire. 

The spirit is pale when newly distilled, but ac^ 
quires a considerable tinge by keeping. I'he dose 



MEDICINE. 



243 



IS a tea-spoonful In some water, during hysterics, 
and the same to be taken occasionally. 
Anti-hysteric pills. 

Take of compound pills of galbanura, 2 drachms, 
rust of iron, 4 scruples, >syrup of ginger, as much 
as is sufficient. Form a mass, which is to be made 
into 40 pills, of which take 4 at noon, and at seven 
in the evening, every day, drinking after tliem half 
a glass of port-wine. These pills are excellent in 
hysteric affections. 

Foetid enema. 

This is made by adding to the ingredients of the 
common clyster, 2 drachms of the tincture of assa- 
fcstida. 

In cases of hysterics and convulsions, the fcetid 
enema is of singular use. 

Opiate draught. 

Mix together, cinramon water, one ounce, spirit 
of caraways, half an ounce, sulphuric ether, half a 
drachm, tincture of castor, do. Let this draught 
be taken every six hours, if the stomach should be 
affected by cramp. If the feet are cold, bottles 
filled with warm water should be applied to them. 
Tonic for debility in females. 

Take of soft extract of bark, 2 drachms, colum- 
bo, rust of iron, each 1 do. simple syrup, as much 
as is sufficient. Make into 50 pills; take 2, and 
gradually increase to 5, three times a day. 
Compound galbanum pills. 

Take of galbanum, opopanax, myrrh, sagape- 
num, each one ounce, assafoetida, half an ounce, 
syrup of saffron, as much as is sufficient. Beat 
them together. These pills are excellent as anti- 
hysterics, and emmenagogues: half a scruple, or 
more, may be taken every night, or oftener. 
Compound spirit of lavender. 

Take of spirit of lavender, three pounds, spirit 
of rosemary, one pound, cinnamon, half an ounce, 
nutmeg, the same, red sanders, ^hree drachms. 
Digest for ten days, and then strain off. This is 
often taken upon sugar, and is a salutary cordial, 
far preferable to drams, which are too often had re- 
course to by persons feeling a great sinking or de- 
pression of the spirits. 

Infusion of senna, luith tamarinds. 

Add to the infusion of senna, before it be strain- 
ed, an ounce of tamarinds; then strain. This forms 
a mild and useful purge, excellently suited for deli- 
cate stomachs, and inflammatory diseases. The 
taste of the senna is well covered by the aromatic 
sugar, and by the acidity of the tamarinds. An 
ounce is a convenient purge. 

Mild purgative. 

Take of manna, 2 oz. tamarinds, 1 oz. rose wa- 
fer, I oz. Boil the rose water and tamarinls to- 
gether for a quarter of an hour, then add the man- 
na. Three table-spoonsful to be taken every 3 
hours, until a motion is obtained. Less is to be 
given to a child. 

Fluor albus, or -whites. 

The fluor albus is a flux of thin matter, of a pel- 
lucid or white colour; sometimes it is greenish or 
yellow, sharp and corroding, often foul and fostid; 
especially if it be of any long standing. 

Tedious labours, frequent miscarriages, immo- 
derate llowings of the menses, profuse evacuations, 
poor diet, an inactive and sedentary life, are the 
causes which generally produce this disease. 
Regimen, &c. 

The diet should be nourishing: milk with isin- 
glass boiled in it, jellies, sago, broths, and light 
meats, red port wine in moderation, chalybeate 
waters, moderate exercise, and frequent ablution 
of the parts should be recommended. A standing 
posture of body long continued, violent dancing, 
or much walking, must be forbidden. 



Astri7igent irv'ection. 

To restore tone to the parts, it will be necessary 
three or four times a day, to inject a portion oi 
the following mixture, by means of a syringe. 

Rub together in a mortar, white vitriol, 1 drachm, 
sugar of lead, 10 grains, water, 2 drachms. Mix 
the whole with a pint of distilled water. 

Another. — Mix together I drachm of powdered 
alum, with I pint of decoction of oak-bark. Inject 
as abotfe. 

Tonic and astringent pills. 

Take of gum kino, and extract of Peruvian 
bark, each, 1 drachm, grated nutmeg, 1 scruple, 
powdered alum, ^ drachm, syrup, in sufficiency to 
form a mass, wiiich is to be divided into 36 pills. 
Three of these are to betaken at eleven, forenoon, 
and five in the afternoon; being taken two hours 
bcifore dinner, three hours afterwards washed 
down by a glassful of good port wine. Recourse 
may at the same time be had to tincture of Peru- 
vian bark, to preparations of steel, and mineral 
waters. 

Prevention. — Females afilicted with this disor- 
der should by no means indulge in the too free use 
of tea, or other warm slops of a relaxing nature. 
They should sleep on a matrass, rise early, and 
take such exercise as may be convenient, and, if 
possible, on horseback. Cold bathing should also 
be used as often as convenient. In winter a flannel 
shift ought to be worn. 

Immodei'ate foiv of the menses. 

When the menses continue too long, or come on 
too frequently fo- the strength of the patient, they 
are said to be immoderate, and are generally occa- 
sioned by weak vessels, thin blood, or a plethoric 
habit. This often happens in delicate women, who 
use enervating liquids too freely, especially tea. It 
also arises in consequence of abortions, and some- 
times attends women who are obliged to work 
hard. . , 

Venesection may be resoi'ted to, when the pa- 
tient is of a full and robust habit; and, where the 
hsemorrhage is excessive, opiates are of great use. 
Astringent fomentatio7is. 

Astringent fomentations may often be very pro- 
perly prescribed. Cloths dipped in decoction of 
oak or Peruvian bark, with the addition of a small 
quantity of brandy, or red wine and vinegar, will 
answer the purpose extremely well. 
Astringent injection. 

Where the hemorrhage is profuse, and resists 
the usual means now recommended, it will be ne- 
cessary to throw up the following astringent injec- 
tion into the uterus from time to time. Take of 
decoction of bark, 1 pint, alum in powder, 3 drs. 
Mix, and use as an injection, three times if ne- 
cessary. 

Regimen, &c. — To confirm the cure, and pre- 
vent a relapse, the body should be strengthened by 
proper exercise, mineral waters, a light but nour- 
ishing diet; such as light broths, red port wine in 
moderation, and an easy cheerful mind. 

When an immoderate flui of the menses, or 
floodings after abortion, is either attended with or 
preceded by acute pain, not inflammatory, in the 
lower part of the back or belly, and returns with 
greater violence, as the discharge comes on, opium 
will, in such a case, answer better than astringents, 
and may be given in clysters, composed of 3 oz. of 
infusion of roses, with a drachm of laudanum. 
Green sickness. 

This disease is commonly attended with pletho- 
ra, lisllessness to motion, a heaviness, paleness of 
complexion, and pain in the back and loins, also 
h«morrhages at the nose, pains in the head, with 
a great sense of weight, across the eyes, loathing. 



244 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



of food, a quick and weak pulse, fluor albus, hec- 
tic heats, coughs, and hysteric fits. 

Tliere is often indigestion and costiveness, with 
a preternatural appetite for chalk, lime, and other 
absorbents. 

Megimen, &c. — The diet ought to be nutritive 
and generous, with a moderate use of wine. Exer- 
cise ought also to be daily used, and particularly 
on horseback. The mind should likewise be kept 
amused by associating with agi'eeable com^iny. 
Chalybeate pills. 
Mix together extract of bai'k, and sulphate of 
iron (green vitriol), each 1 scruple; sub-carbonate 
of soda, 15 grains; powdered myrrh, 30 grains. 
Add syrup of ginger to form the whole into a mass, 
which divide into 34 pills. After the stomach has 
heen cleansed by s gentle emetic, two of these 
are taken two or three times a day, taking care to 
wash them down w^th nearly a wine-glassful of the 
following 

Tonic draught. 
Mix together compound tincture of Peruvian 
bark, and compound tincture of cardamoms, each, 
1 oz.; compound infusion of gentian, 1 pint. 
Chalybeate draught. 
Pour 15 drops of tincture of muriate of iron into 
a glassful of cold water, or a decoction of Peru- 
vian bark. Drink this twice or thrice a day, au 
hour before, or two hours after eating. 
Tincture ofiodins. 
In many cases of green sickness, attended with 
symptoms of approaching consumption, and also 
in incipient phthisis, the saturated tincture of 
.iodine may be administered witl^ great etTect. 

When taken internally, it is very beneficial in 
dispersing wen. Ten drops of the saturated tinc- 
ture, taken three times a day, will effectually re- 
move the complaint, in the course of five or six 
weeks. 

Cessation of the menses. 
The constitution undergoes a very considerable 
change at the critical period when menstruation 
ceases; and it often happens that chronic, and 
sometimes fatal complaints arise, if care is not 
taken when this natural disctiarge terminates. It 
seldom stops all at once, but gradually ceases, 
being irregular both as to quantity and time. 

Regimen, &c. — When the disappearance is sud- 
den, in females of a plethoric habit, malt liquors, 
wine, and animal food, ought, for a time, to be ex- 
cluded from their diet. They should likewise 
avoid all liquors of a spirituous nature. Regular 
exercise should be taken, and the body conslantlv 
kept open by the tincture of senna, Epsom salts, or 
any other mild laxative medicine. 

If giddiness, and occasional pains in the head, 
affect the patient, or if there be a visible fulness in 
the vessels, the application of leeches to the tem- 
ple, will be found very beneficial; and if ulcers 
should break out in theiegs, &c. they ought by no 
means to be healed up, unless a salutar}' drain, by 
means of an issue, be established in some other part. 
Dropsy. 
Dissolve an ounce of saltpetre in a pint of cold 
water; take a wine-glassful every monung and 
evening ; 6 oz. will perfect the ciire m about six 
weeks. 

For vomiting aifiing pregnancy. 
The morning sickness is one of the most painful 
feelings attendant on the pregnant state; and it is 
one of those which medicine commonly fails to re- 
lieve. A cup of chamomile, or peppermint tea, 
taken M'hen first waking, and suffering the patient 
to he still for an hour, will sometimes alleviate the j 
tlistressing sickness: but should it recur dui-ing | 
the day, these means seldom succeed. 
Two or three spoonsful of iJie following mixtui-e I 



should then be taken, either occasionally or when 
the vomiting and heartburn are more continual, 
immediately after every meal: — Take of calcined 
magnesia, 1 dr.; distilled water, 6 oz. ; aromatic 
tincture of rhatany, 6 dr.; water, pure ammonia, 
1 dr. Mix. 

^tiother.—Dr Scellier extols the following mix- 
ture as a remedy for nausea and vomiting, during 
the period of pregnancy. Take of lettuce-water, 
4 oz.; gum arable, 1 scruple; syrup of white pop- 
pies, syrup of marsh-meadow root, each, 2 oz.; 
Prussic acid, 4 drops. Let an apothecary prepare 
the mixture. A table-spoonful is to be taken every 
half hour when the vomiting is present. 

If the lettuce-water cannot be obtained, 8 grains 
of the inspissated v.'hite juice (la-ctuarium), dis- 
solved in 4 oz. of water, may be substituted foi it 
Another. — The saline mixture, in a state of effer- 
vescence, with a pill of one or two grains of lactua- 
rium, is by some preferred to the above composi- 
tion. When the matter brought up is acid, a weak 
solution of the, carbonate of soda may be substituted 
for the saline mixture. 

To r''lieve sickness and qualms in pregnancy. 
Take of infusion of quassia, 1 oz.; cinnamon wa- 
ter, 4 dr.; compound spirit of ammonia, 20 drops 
])repared oyster shells, 2 gr. Make into a draught 
to be taken at twelve and seven o'clock every day. 
For heartburn during pregnancy. 
Take of solution of ammonia, calcined magnesia, 
each, 1 dr.; cinnamon water, 2 oz. ; common wa- 
ter, 6 oz. The dose is a table-spoonful as often as 
required. 

Head-ache. 
When head-ache or drowsiness prove trouble- 
some to a pregnant woman of robust habit, a few 
ounces of blood should be taken from the arm. If 
ehe be of a weak or irritable habit, leeches ought 
to be applied to the temples. In both cases, the 
bowels should be opened by Epsom salts, or some 
other gentle laxative medicine. 
Hysteria. 
When hysteria, or fainting occurs, the pregnant 
patient should be placed in a horizontal position in 
the open air. When she is a little recovered, a 
glass of wine in a little cold water should be ad- 
ministered, or, what is perhaps better, a few drops 
of the spirit of hartshorn in a glass of water. 
Costiveness and piles. 
To prevent these, women in a pregnant state 
should make frequent use of the following elec- 
tuary: 

Mix together in a marble mortar, 2 ounces of 
the electuaiy of senna, half a drachm of powder of 
jalap, two drachms of cream of tartar, and half an 
ounce of syrup of roses. Half a tea-spoonful to be 
taken every night at bed-time, or oftener,. as long 
as the above complaints continue. 

Pregnant women should be particularly careful 
not to use aloes as a pui'gative, this medicine being 
very apt to increase the piles. The same caution is 
necessary with respect to Anderson's and Scott's 
pills, the basis of both which is aloes. If the piles 
should prove so very troublesome as to prevent the 
patient from sitting comfortably, leeches ought to 
be applied to the part; in all other cases, simple 
ablution with cold water, with the use of purga- 
tives as above directed, will be sufficient. 
Troublesome itchings. 
Cooling laxatives are likewise proper in this 
place; also frequent ablution with cold or luke- 
warm water. If the itching does not speedJly 
abate, a lotion is to be applied to the parts, twice 
a day, consisting of a drachm of sugar of lead in a 
pint of distilled water. 

Stuellings of the feet and ancles. 
Pregnant women are usually free from this com- 



MEDICINE. 



Z4b 



plaint in the morning; but suffer a good deal from 
U towards night. 

Prevention. — In the commencement it will be 
merely requisite for the patient to use a foot-stool, 
when sitting, so that her feet may never be in a 
hanging position (or any length of time. 

Remedy. — If there should begi'eat distention, so 
as to give the sensation of almost bursting, slight 
scarification ought to be made with the edge of a 
lancet; and flannels, wrung out of a hot fomentation 
of chamomile, are soon after to be applied. It is 
almost unnecessary to state, that this complaint in- 
variably disappears at the period of delivery. 
Cramp of the legs and thighs. 

This complaint may be speedily relieved by rub- 
bing the part affected with the following liniment: 
Mix together, (by shaking in a phial) laudanum, ^ 
an oz.; tincture of camphor, 1 oz.; and sulphuric 
ether, ^ an oz. 

Cramp in the stomach. 

This is to be avoided by proper attention to diet, 
which should not be of a flatulent nature, or too 
hard of digestion. Attention is likewise to be paid 
to the state of the bowels. 

Distention and cracking of the skin. 

This is very apt to occur in the latter months of 
gestation, accompanied sometimes with considera- 
ble soreness. It is to be relieved by frequent fric- 
tion with warm oil. 

Distention of veins. 

The veins of the legs, thighs, and belly, are apt 
to become enlarged in the latter stages of preg- 
nancy. Although no bad consequence ever attends 
this, it will be necessary sometimes to relieve it by 
moderate bleeding, and by repeated small doses of 
infusion of senna, mixed with Epsom salts; at the 
same time using a spare diet. The distended 
vein may frequently be relieved by the application 
of a pretty tight bandage. 

Incontinency of urine. 

This very uncomfortable complaint is to be re- 
lieved by a frequent horizontal position, butcannot 
be entirely remedied but by delivery. Strict 
attention, however, ought to be paic' to cleanliness, 
and much comfort will be felt by the use of a large 
sponge properly fastened. 

Restless-ness and loant of sleep. 

In this case, cooling laxative medicines, as the 
mfusiou of senna, with Epsom salts, ought fre- 
quently to be used. If relief be not soon obtained, 
small quantities of blood are to be taken from the 
patient. Opiates ought never to be used, as they 
tend only to increase the febrile state of the 
patient. 

Conmdsions. 

\Vhen a female is disposed to tbis complaint 
from a plethoric halyt, there will be great fulness 
and giddiness in the head, in the latter months of 
gestation; also drowsiness, wi'.h a sensation of 
weight in the forehead when she stoops, or bends 
forward, accompanied sometimes by imperft;ct 
vision, and the appearance of atoms floating before 
the eyes. In such a case, 10 or 12 oz. of blood 
ought to be taken from the arm, and the bowels 
are afterwards to be kept open by frequent and 
small doses of infusion of senna, mixed with Ep- 
som salts, until the above symptoms entirely dis- 
appear. Wine, spirituous and malt liquors", and 
solid, or animal food, are likewise to be avoided. 

Wlien convulsions have occurred, and when 
there is reason to believe tliat they are owing to 
irritation, rather than plethora, it will likewise be 
necessary to bleed the patient in a small degree, 
both from the arm, and by the application of 
leeches to the temples. The bowels are also to 
be kept perfectly open, and a common elystur, 
containing from half a drachm to a drachm of 



laudanum, is to be administered. The vrarm bath 
is likewise exceedingly useful; at the same time 
taking care to strengthen the habit as much as 
possible. 

The milk fever. 

This fever generallj arises about the third or 
fourth day after deliveiy. The symptoms are pain 
and distention of the breasts, shooting frequently 
towards the arm-pit. Sometimes the breasts be- 
come hard, hot, and inflamed. It generally con- 
tinues a day or two, and ends spontaneously by 
copious sweats, or a large quantity of pale urine. 
Remedies. 

If it should prove violent, especially in young 
women of a plethoric constitution, we should a'jate 
the inflammation by bleeding; this, however, is 
rarely necessary. But, in every constitution, the 
body must be kept open by gentle cooling laxatives, 
or clysters. The breasts should be often drawn 
either by the child, or, if the mother does not de- 
sign to give suck, by some proper person. Jf the 
breasts are hard, very turgid, or inflamed, emol- 
lient fomentations ought to be applied to them. 
The common poultice of bread and milk, with the 
addition of a little oil, may be used on this occa- 
sion; and warm milk, or a decoction of elder- 
flowers, for a fomentation. 

Regimen. 

The patient should use a thin, slender diet, con- 
sisting only of panada, or some other farinaceous 
substances. Her drink may be barlej'-water, milk 
and water, weak tea, or the like. 
Inflamed breasts. 

When the breasts tumefy, and begin to be un- 
easy, a few days after delivery, from the milk stag- 
nating, gentle diaphoretics, and purgatives are to 
be used, and camphorated spirit of wine is to be 
applied, or warm clothes, dipt in brandy, are to be 
put to the arm pits. Should pain with inflamma- 
tion come on, apply a poultice of bread, milk, and 
oil, and an emollient fomentation; and in case sup- 
puration caniiot be prevented, it must be treated 
accordingly. But, in general, it is much better to 
let the tumour break of itself, than to open it. The 
ulcer is afterwards to be treated according to the 
common rules for disorders of that kind. 

If there be only a hardness in the breast, from 
coagulated milk, emollient cataplasms and fomen- 
tations are to be used, likewise fresh linseed oil, 
by way of liniment. 

Sore nipples. 

Chapped or sore nipples are very frequent with 
those who give suck. In this case the olive oil is 
a very proper application; or fresh cream spread 
upon fine linen; or a solution of gum arable in 
water. 

It is almost needless to observe, that, whatever 
applications be made use of to the nipples, the)' 
ought always to be washed oif before the child is 
permitted to suck. 

Puerperal fever. 

Puerperal fever commonly begins with a rigor, 
or chilliness, on the first, second, or third day after 
delivery; followed by a violent pain and soreness 
over the belly. There is much thirst; pain in the 
head, chieflj' in the forehead, and parts about the 
eyebrows; a flushing in the face; anxiety; a hot dr}' 
skin; quick and weak pulse, though sumetimes it 
will resist the finger pretty strongly; a shortness in 
breathing; high-coloured urine, and a suppression 
of the natural discharge. Sometimes a vomiting 
and purging attend from the first, but in gene- 
ral, in the beginning, the belly is costive: however, 
when the disease nroves fatal, a diarrhoea generally 
supervenes, and the stools at last become involun« 
tary. 

The cause of this fever has been commonly 

r2 



246 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



ascribed either to a suppression of the natural dis- 
charge, an inflammation in the womb, or a reten- 
tion of the milk. 

Kemedies. f 

If the belly be costive, an emollient opening 
clyster is to be administered; and, if stools and an 
abatement of the pain be not procured thereby, 
immediate recourse is to be had to cathartics, and 
repeated bleeding from the arm. Those to be re- 
commended are, Epsom salts and infusion of sen- 
na, or castor-oil; either, in sufRcient quantity. 

After the intestinal canal is sufficiently cleared, 
and the pain abates, a gentle diaphoijsis is to be 
encouraged by such medicines as neither bind the 
body, nor are heating. This intention is best 
answered by small doses of ipecacuanha, tanar 
emetic, or antimonial wine, combined with a few 
drops of laudanum, and given about once or twice 
in ihe course of the twenty-four hours. In the 
intermediate spaces of time, interpose saline 
draughts. 

Heffimen. 

The patient's drink should consist of pure water 
■with a toast in it; barley water, either by itself, or 
with the addition of a little nitre; whey made with 
rennet or vinegar; milk and water; lemonade; a 
slight infusion of malt; and mint or sage tea. 



MASAGEMEIfT AJSH DISEASES OF CHIIDKEIT. 



Infant nursing: 

A child, when it'comes into the world, should 
DC laid (for the first month) upon a thin maUrass, 
rather longer that itself, which the nurse may 
sometimes keep upon her lap, that the child may 
always lie straight, and only sit up as the nurse 
slants tl>e maltrass. To set a child quite upright 
before the end of the first mon'.h, is hurtful. Af- 
terwards, the nurse may begin to set it up and 
dance it by degrees: and it must be kept as dry as 
possible. 

Friction. 

The clothing should be very light, and not much 
longer than the child, that the legs may be got at 
with ease, in order to hive them often rubbed in 
the day with a warm hand or flannel, and in par- 
ticular the inside of them. Rubbing a child all 
over, takes off scurf, and makes the blood cir- 
culate. 

Rubbing the ankle-bones and inside of the knees 
will strengthen those parts, and make the child 
stretch its knees, and keep them flat. 
Position. 

A nurse ought to keep a child as little in her 
arms as possible, lest the legs should be cramped, 
and the toes turned inwards. Let her always keep 
the child's legs loose. The oftener the posture is 
changed, the better. 

Exercise. 

By slow degrees the infant should be accustomed 
to exercise, both within doors and in the open air; 
but he never should be moved about immediately 
after sucking or feeding: it will be apt to sicken 
liim. Exercise should be given by carrying him 
about and gently dandling him in .his mother or 
nurse's arms; but dancing him up and down on the 
knee is very tatiguing for a young child. 
To prevent distortion. 

Tossing a child aboui, and exercising it in the 
open air in fine weather, is of the greatest service. 
In cities, children are not to be kept in hot rooms, 
but to have as much air as possible. Want of ex- 
ercise is the cause of rickets, large heads, weak 
joints, a contracted breast, and aiseased lungs, be- 
sides a numerous train of other evils. 



Hendering' children hardy. 
Endeavour to harden the body, but withont re» 
sorting to any violent means. All attempts to ren- 
der children hardy, must be made by gradual 
steps. Nature admits of no sudden transitions. 
For instance, infants should, by imperceptible de- 
.grees, be inured to the cool, and then to the cold 
bath; at the same time, attention must be paid to 
their previous management. If they have hitherto 
been accustomed to an effeminating treatment, and 
should be suddenly subjected to an opposite ex- 
treme, such a change would be attended with dan- 
ger. When children have once been accustomed 
to a hardy system of education, such a plan must 
be strictly adhered to. 

Cleanliness and bathing. 
The child's skin is to be kept perfectly clean by 
washing its limbs morning and evening, and like- 
wise its' neck and ears; beginning with warm wa- 
ter, till by degrees he will not only bear, but like 
to be washed with cold. 

After he is a month old, if he has no cough, fe- 
ver, nor eruption, the bath should be colder and 
colder, (if the season is mild), and gradually it 
may be used as it comes from the fountain. After 
carefully drying the whole body, head and limbs, 
another dry soft cloth, a little warmed, should be 
used gently, to take all the damp from the wrinkles 
or fat parts that fold together. Then rub the limbs; 
but when the body is rubbed, take special care not 
to press upon the stomach or belly. On these 
parts the hand should move in a circle, because 
the bowels lie in that direction. If the skin is 
chafed, hair-powder is to be used. The utmost 
tenderness is necessary in drying the head, and no 
binding should be made close about it. Squeezing 
the head, or combing it roughly, may cause dread- 
ful diseases, and even the loss of reason. A small 
soft brush, lightly applied, is safer than a comb. 
Clean clothes every morning and evening will tend 
greatly to a child's health and comfort. 
Dress. 
With regard to the child's dress in the day, let 
it be a shirt, a petticoat of fine flannel, two or three 
inches longer than the child's feet, with a dimity 
top (commonly called a bodice-coat), to tie behind. 
Over this put a robe or frock, or whatever may 
bo convenient, provided it is fastened behind, 
and not much longer than the child's feet, that his 
motions may be strictly observed. 

Caps may be worn till the hair is sufficiently 
grown, but by no means till the child has got most 
of its teeth. 

The dress for the night may be a shirt, a blan- 
ket to tie on, and a thin gown to tie over the 
blanket. 

The act of dressing. 
Some people in dressing an infant, seem in such 
haste as to toss him in a way that must fatigue and 
harass him. The most tender deliberation should 
be observed. In addition to this hurried dressing, 
his clothes are often so tight that he frets and roars. 
Pins should never be used in an infant's clothes; 
and every string should be so loosely tied thai one 
might get two fingers between it and the part where 
it is fixed. Bandages round the head should be 
strictly forbidden. Many instances of idiotisra, 
fits, and deformity, are owing to tight bandages. 
Slee[). 
Infants cannot sleep too long: and it is a favoura- 
ble symptom, when they enjoy a calm and long- 
continued rest, of whiuh they should by no means 
be deprived, as this is the greatest support granted 
to them by nature. A child lives comparatively 
much taster liinii an adult; its blood flows more 
rapidly; and every stimulus operates more power- 



MEDICINE. 



247 



fully. Sleep promotes a more calm and uniform 
circulation of tiie blood, and it facilitates assimi- 
lation of the nutriment received. The iiorizontal 
posture, likewise, is the most favourable to the 
growth and bodily development of tlie infant. 
Duration of, mid time for sleep. 

Sleep ought to be in proportion to the age of the 
infant. After an uninterrupted rest of nine montlis 
in the womb, this salutary refreshment should 
continue to fill up the greater part of a child's ex- 
istence. A continued watchfulness of twenty-four 
hours would prove destructive. After the age of 
six months, the periods of sleep, as well as all 
other animal functions, may in some degree be 
regulated; yet, even then, a child sliijuld be suffer- 
ed to sleep the whole night, and several hours both 
in the morning and afternoon. Mothers and 
nurses should endeavour to accustom infants from 
the time of their birth, to sleep in the nig-ht pre- 
ferably to the day, and for this purpose they ought 
to remove all external impressions which may dis- 
turb their rest, such as noise, light, &c. but espe- 
cially net to obey every call for taking them up, 
and giving food at improper times. After the se- 
cond year of their age, they will not instinctively 
require to sleep in the forenoon, though after 
dinner it may be continued till the third and 
fourth year of life, if the child shows a particular 
inclination to repose; because till that age, the full 
half of its time may safely be allotted to sleep. 
From that period, however,' it ought to be shorten- 
ed for the space of one hour with eveiy succeeding 
year; so that a child of seven years old may sleep 
about eight, and not exceeding nine hours; this 
proportion may be continued to the age of ado- 
lescence, and even manhood. 

Awaking suddenly. 

To awaken children from their sleep with a 
noise, or in an impetuous manner, is extremely in- 
judicious and hurtful, nor is it proper to carry them 
from a dark room immediately into a glaring light, 
against a dazzling wall; for the sudden impres- 
sion of light debilitates the organs of vision, and 
lays the foundation of weak eyes, from early in- 
fancy. 

Restlessness at night. 

An infant is sometimes very restless at night, and 
it is generally owing either to cramming liim with 
a heavy supper, liglit night clothes, or being over- 
heated by too many blankets. It may also proceed 
from putting him to sleep too early. He should 
be kept awake till the family are going to rest, and 
the house free from noise. Undressing and bathing 
Tvill weary and dispose him for sleep, and the uni- 
versal stillness will promote it. This habit and all 
others depend on attention at first. Accustom him 
to regular nours, and if he has a good sleep in the 
forenoon and afternoon, it will be easy to keep 
liim brisk all the evening. It is right to ofter him 
drink when a young infant; and more solid, though 
simple food, when he is going to bed, after he is 
two or three months old. but do not force him to 
receive it; and never let any thing but the pre- 
scription of a physician in sickness, tempt the 
nurses to give him wine, spirits, or any (Irug to 
make him sleep. Milk and water, whey, or thin 
gruel, is the only fit liquor for little ones, even 
when they can run about. The more simple and 
light their diet and drink, the more they will 
tlu-ive. Such food will keep the body regular, and 
they cannot be long well if that essential point is 
neglected. 

Amusements, &c. 

The bodily education of boys and girls ought in 
every respect to be uniform. A great difference 
usually prevails in the education of both sexes dur- 
intj infancy. Parents, being too anxious for the 



accomplishment of girls. Imagine that they must 
be kept under a certain restraint. Boys, in gene- 
ral, are not laced, but poor girls are compressed 
tight enough to suffocate them; because it is erro- 
neously supposed, that this injudicious practice 
contributes to an elegant shape, though, ultimate- 
ly, the eontraiy effect is obvious; as it is the surest 
way of making children round shouldered and 
detormed. Girls are, from their cradles, com- 
pelled to a more sedentary life; and, with this 
intention, dolls, and other play things, are early 
procured: yet boys are permitted to take more 
frequent exercise. Thus, girls are confined in 
their apartments, while boys amuse themselves in 
the open air. Such absurd constraints impede the 
free and progressive evolution of the different 
faculties inherent in the human mind. 
The yello-w gum. 
The yellow gum is known by a yellow tinge of 
the skin, with languor and a tendency to sleep. It 
is to be relieved by giving a tea-spoouful or more 
of castor oil, to clear the intestines. When the 
disease does not give way to this traatraent, 8 drops 
of antimonial wine are to be given in a tea-spoon- 
ful of water, so as to prove emetic. In about 
eight or ten hours, this is to be followed by half a 
grain of calomel, or 4 grains of rhubarb. 
Vomiting. 
When the food is vomited in an unaltered state, 
it is generally a sign of over-feeding: but when the 
vomiting is bilious, or when the food is partly 
digested, the diet ought to be changed, and the 
bowels opened by 1 grain of calomel given in 
sugar. This is to be followed by a tea-spoonful of 
castor oil on the following morning. If the vom- 
iting should still continue, give a gentle emetic, 
and the calomel powder (containing 1 or 2 grains, 
according to the age) soon after. If there be much 
irritation, apply a blister to the stomach; and, if 
possible, give a tea-spoonful of the saline medicine, 
in a state of effervescence, and containing 2 drops 
of laudanum. 

Hiccups. 
These generally arise from acidity in the sto- 
mach, and may be remedied by the administration 
of 8 grains of prepared chalk with 2 grains of 
powdered rhubarb, given in a little syrup or gruel. 
If very severe, the stomach is to be rubbed with a 
little soap liniment, or opodeldoc, to which a little 
laudanum has been added. 

Griping andjlatidency. 
These are known by coutiiiual crying, restless- 
ness, and drawing up of the legs. V\ hen attended 
by diarhcea and green stools, it is to be relieved, 
in general, by the administration of a few grains 
of rhubarb and magnesia. If sour belchings, &;c. 
still continue, it will be proper to give a tea -spoon- 
ful every quarter of an hour, of weak solution of 
tartar emetic, until the child vomits. After this, 
particularly if there be any purging, it will be pro- 
per to give a little rhubarb and magnesia again, 
and now and then a little chalk mixture. 
Absorbent inixture. 
If the pains are very great so as to make the 
child scream violently, two tea-spoonsful of the 
following mixture, with 5 or 6 drops of laudanum, 
may be given directly: Mix together, prepared 
chalk, 1 scruple, tincture of caraway seeds, 3 dr. 
compound spirit of lavender, 1 do. and of pepper- 
mint water, 2 oz. 

As soon as there is diminution of pain, a purga- 
tive should be given, particularly if the bowels 
happen to be in a costive state. The best will be 
castor oil. Tiie above mixture may afterwards be 
occasionally continued, but without the laudanum. 
Diarrhoea. 
This may, in general, if the stools are green, 



248 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



be relieved by a brisk purgative^ of from I to 2 
grains of calomel, ■with 4 or 5 of rhubarb, accord- 
ing to the age of the child. The absorbent mix- 
ture is then to be given as before directed. 
Further remedies. 

When the stools are very frequent and are either 
slimy or tinged with blood, it will be proper to 
give 5 grains of rhubarb every 6 hours, the food 
being beef tea, sago, isinglass in milk or calf's 
foot jelly, the body being wvapped in warm flannel. 
A small blister may likewise be applied to th? bel- 
ly; and a dessert spoonful of the following tonic 
and astringent mixture is to be given every six 
hours: Mix together, tincture of rind, 1 drachm, 
chalk mixture, 2 oz. laudanum, 12 drops, and cin- 
namon water, 1 cz. 

Opiate clyster. 

If the fluid stools are ejected with great force a 
clyster should be given, composed of half a tea- 
cupful of boiled starch, and 20 drops of laudanum. 
This may be repeated at an interval of 8 hours, if 
the symptoms do not abate. 

Excoriations of the skin. 

Children are apt to be chafed between the thighs, 
behind the ears, and in the wrinkles of the neck, 
from want of proper attention to cleanliness. In 
such cases it will be necessary to bathe the parts 
twice a day, (or every time tliat the child's things 
are changed) with a little warm milk and water; 
and to apply a puff with a little hair powder im- 
mediately afterwards, so as to keep the parts dry. 
— When discharges take place behind the ears, 
they must not be dried up too suddenly, as such a 
circuinstance might produce a diversion to the 
brain. In such cases it will be always best to give 
frequent doses of castor oil, or calomel, every 
night, in the proportion of 1 grain to 3 grains of 
rhubarb. 

Cutaneous eruptions. 

No real danger attends these eruptions, which 
are generally known by the names of red-gum, 
nettle-rash, &c. All that is required to be done 
is to keep the bowels open by such means as are 
prescribed in the foregoing article, and to guard 
aj;ainst cold, which might drive the eruption in- 
wardly, and so produce internal inflammations of 
a critical naturs. If the milk or food be consider- 
ed the cause, the nurse, or diet, ought to be chang- 
ed: and if sickness and vomiting should prevail, 
it will be proper to give the absorbent mixture 
mentioned under the head Griping and Flatulency, 
The thrush. 

This disease makes its appearance by little ul- 
cerations in the mouth, tongue, &c. of a white 
colour, and sometimes of a yellow appearance. 
They are generally owing to acidities in the sto- 
mach, kc. 

In this disorder nothing avails more than an 
emetic at first, and then a little magnesia and rhu- 
barb, (if there is diarrhosa) with thin chicken- 
water as drink. Testaceous powders, or the ab- 
sorbent mixture (see Griping andFintulency), will 
also be proper, if there is no looseness, it will be 
proper to give a grain or two of calomel, with 3 or 
4 grain: of rhubarb. The mouth and throat should 
at the same time be cleansed by gargles. 
Synip of black currants. 

Take of the juice of black cuirants, strained, 1 
pint, double refined sugar, 24 oz. Dissolve the 
sugar, and boil to make a syrup. 

A tea-spoonful of this to be given to children in 
tlie thrush. 

Falbn^ doivn of the fundament. 

This happens frequently to children who cry 
much, or who have liad a diarrhoea, or from strain- 
ing on going to stool. If it proceed from costive- 
ness, give lenitive clysters. In case the gut be 



swelled or inflamed, foment with warm milk, or 
decoction of oak bark, or wash frequently with 
cold water. The protrauled parts are now to be 
replaced by the finger, and supported by a truss or 
bandage. The internal use of tonics will be proper 
Dejitition. 

When children are about cutting their teeth, 
they slaver much, are feverish, hot, and uneasy; 
their gums swell, and ai-e very painful; they are 
sometimes loose in the bowels, and at other times 
costive; now and then convulsions come on. 

Leeches are often of use applied behind the 
ears; also blisters. 

Scarifying the gums. 

Instead of giving narcotics to children cutting 
their teeth, it is strenuously recommended to have 
the tumid gums divided by a lancet down to the 
tooth; an operation at once safe and unattended 
with pam. If done in time, by removing tlie cause 
of the complaint, all the symptoms will disappear 
of themselves. Instead of giving preparations ol" 
opium, it will be found, in the majority of cases, 
far better to administer calomel, in minute doses, 
as this medicine is well known to possess peculiar 
efficacy in promoting absorption in these parts. 
The body, if costive, should be kept regularly 
open, and if there should be looseness of the bow- 
els, it should by no means be discouraged. Instead 
of coral or any other hard body, let the child nib- 
ble at a piece of wax candle. 

Convulsions. 

Children are particularly liable to convulsions at 
the period of teething, small pox, measles, and 
other eruptive diseases; sometimes, also, from ex- 
ternal causes, such as strait clothes, bandages, &c. 
When they proceed from any of these, bathing the 
feet, or the whole body, in warm water, of 92 or 94 
degrees, and administering a mild clyster, will 
almost immediately relieve them. To shorten the 
duration of the fit, cold water should be poured 
over the face and neck, whilst the rest of the body 
is in the bath. 

The return of convulsions is to be prevented 
only by ttie removal of the cause of the existing ir- 
ritation; but, in general, when the body is kept 
carefully open, there will he little cause to fear a 
return. 

Inxvardjits. 

In these fits the infant appears as if asleep, the 
eyelids, however, are not quite closed, but fre- 
quently twinkle, and show the wnites turned up- 
wards. The muscles of the face are sometimes 
slightly distorted, the mouth having the appear- 
ance of a laugh or smile. The breach is sometimes 
very quick, and at others sto[)S for a time; whils*. 
the eyelids and lips are pale and dark alternately. 
The infant startles on the least noise, and sighs 
deeply or breaks wind. This relieves him for a 
little, but he soon relapses into a dose. Whenever 
the above mentioned symptoms are observed; it 
will be right to awaken the infant, by stirring or 
otherwise, and to rub its back and belly well be- 
fore the fire, until wind escapes. At the same 
time, it will be proper to give hp/f a tea-spoonful 
of drink or pap, containing 2 dro^,s of oil of anise 
or caraways. As soon after as possible, a purgative 
of castor oil, or a grain or two of calomel (accord- 
ing to the age), witti two or three grains of rhu- 
barb, is to be given, to empty the bowels of what- 
ever crude matter may occasion the disorder. ■• 
'J 'he rickets. 

This disoi'der aft'ectsthe bones of children, and 
causesa considerable protuberance, incurvation, or 
distortion of them. It may arise from various 
causes, but more particularly when ])roper care- 
has not been taken with children: when they have 
been too tightly swathed in some parts, and too 



MEDICINE. 



249 



loose in others; keeping them too long in one and 
the same position; and not keeping them clean and 
dry. Sometimes it may proceed from a lax habit, 
at otiiers from costiveness. 

It usually appears about the eighth or ninth 
niontlr, and coiitinues to the sixth or seventh year 
of the child's age. The head becomes large, and 
the fontaiielle keeps long open; the countenance is 
fall and florid; the joints knotty and distorted, espe- 
cially about the wrists; less near the ankles. The 
ribs protuberate, and grow crooked; the belly 
swells; cough and disorder of the lungs succeed; 
and there is, withal, a very early understanding, 
and the child moves but weakly, and waddles in 
walking. 

Regimen, &c. — The regimen should be light 
and properly seasoned; the air dry and clear; exer- 
cise and motion should be encouraged, and ban- 
dages, as well as instruments, contrived to keep 
the limbs in a proper sitaation; but we should take 
care that they be so formed as not to put the child 
to pain, or restrain it too much. 

Cold sea-bathing is of infinite use; after which, 
friction should be used, and tae child placed be- 
tween two blankets, so as to encourage perspiration. 
The back should be well rubbed with opodeldoc, 
or good old rum, every night. 

A few grains of ipecacuanha, or calomel, may 
now and then be proper, and chalybeates are also 
very serviceable. 

_A decoction of Peruvian bark is also good, 
with red wine: it is to be used with moderation in 
the forenoon and after dinner. 

Distortion of the spine. 
Dr Weitch, an eminent physician of Berlin, has 
published in Hufeland's journal, a simple remedy 
for weakness of the back-bone of infants, and which 
he considers capable of preventing distortion. This 
method consists, first, in frequent and close exa- 
mination of the child's back-bone; and secondly, 
on the slightest trace of any distortion, to wash the 
same with brandy every morning and night, and 
to pay the strictest attention to the child's keeping 
a straight posture both sleeping and waking; and if 
it can be bathed from time to time, it will be so 
much the better. 

Jelly from' the raspings of ivory. 
The raspings of ivory impart to boiling water a 
very pleasant jelly, which has been found more 
easy ofdigestion, and more nutritious tlian that of 
the hartshorn shavings, or isinglass. Mixed with 
the jelly of the arrow-root, in tlie proportion of one 
l)art to seven, it is much recommended for weakly 
and ricketty children, and consumptive or ema- 
ciated invalids. 

Ring-worm and scald head. 
It is well known that these disorders, which are 
in many respects similar, are contagious; therefore, 
no comb or hair-brush, used by'a child affected 
by them, is to be used by another child either in a 
school or in the same family. Nor should the hat 
or cap of such a child be worn by any other. 

Treatment.— The intractableness of most chil- 
dren, when attempted to be controlled or governed 
by the accustomed mode of treatment, proves, in 
most instances, a material obstacle in the way of 
Curing this malignant disease; and the quickness 
with which the hair of the scalp grows in children, 
has hitherto, in most instances, rendered every 
effort ineffectual. It was a constant failure, under 
these inauspicious circumstances, that led Mr Bar- 
low, a medical professor in Lancashire, to adopt 
the subjoined lotion: — Take ot sulphate of potass, 
fecentiy prepared, 3 drachms; Spanish wliite soap, 
i^do.; lime-water, 7^ oz. ; and spirit of wine, 2 
drachms. Mix, by shaking well in a phial. 

By bathing the affected "head with this lotion a 
-2 G 



few times, morning and evening, and suffering the 
parts to dry without interruption, the scabs will 
decorticate and peel off from the scalp, and leave 
the parts underneath perfectly healed; without tor- 
turing the iwtient either by shaving the head or cut- 
ting off the hair. 

Ointment for the same. 

Take of spermaceti ointment, 1 oz. ; tar oint- 
ment, 1 oz.; powdered angustura bark, 3 drachms. 
Rub the whole well in a marble mortar, and apply 
to the parts affected. 

Alterative medicines. 

In six cases out often, this disease is aggravated 
by a scrofulous taint of the system; and when this 
is the case, the following alterative medicine acce- 
lerates the cure. 

Take of oxide of zinc, precipitated sulphur of 
antimonj', each, 9 grains; resin of guaiacum, ex- 
tract of bark, e.xtrs.ct of hemlock, each, 2 scruples. 
Mix, and form into 20 pills. 

To children from six to ten years of age, give 
one pill night and morning; under six years, half 
a pill night and morning, mixed in raspberry 
jam. 

Instead of the above, 1 grain of calomel may be 
given going to rest, and repeated every night; alsi. 
the use of salt water externally and internally, as 
an alterative, has been found very useful. 

In all cases the bowels ought to be kept open, 
and the diet should consist of wholesome and nu- 
tritive food; avoiding fish and salt meats. Cleanli- 
ness and occasional use of the warm bath will 
likewise be of service. 

Hooping cough. 

This convulsive cough is occasioned by a viscid 
matter which cannot be easily expectorated. The 
poor infant, in endeavouring to bring it up, strains 
violently, till he becomes almost suffocated and 
convulsed. 

Remedies. — In this complaint, next to occasional 
vomiting, the daily use of. the warm bath is most 
useful. Bleeding may sometimes be useful, to pre- 
vent inflammation of the internal membranes, or 
cupping between the neck and shoulders. Gentle 
antimonial emetics should be given repeatedly, 
because the symptoms are always relieved when 
the child vomits. 

Another. — Dissolve a scruple of salt of tartar in 
a pint of water, add ten grains of cochineal, finely 
powdered; sweeten this with sugar. Give an in- 
fant the fourth part of a table-spoonful four times 
a day. To a child two or three j'ears old, half a 
spoonful; and to a child four years old or upwards, 
a spoonful. The relief will be immediate, and thp 
cure, generally, in three or four days. 

To the above may be added, as auxiliaries, a 
Burgundy pitch plaster on tlie pit of the stomach, 
a flannel waistcoat or siiirt ne.xt the skin, and a 
change of air when practicable. The diet should 
be light and easy of digestion, avoiding every 
thing of a fst and oily nature. 

Embrocation for hooping cough. 

Take of emetic tartar, 2 drachms, boiling water, 
2 oz. tincture of cantharides, 1 drachm, oil of 
wild thyme, 3 drachms. Mix. A dessert-spoon- 
ful to he rubbed upon the chest every night and 
morning. 

Regimen, &c. for hooping cough. 

A frequent change of air is exceedingly useful 
in hosping cough, particularly short voyages at 
sea; at the same time flannel is to be worn next 
the skin. Young children should lie willi their 
iieads and shoulders raised; and when the cough 
occurs, they ought to be placed on their feet and 
bent a little forward, to guard against suffocation. 
The diet siiould be light, and the drink warm and 
mueilasiinous. 



260 



UNIVERSAL llECEIPr BOOK, 



The croup. 

This disease is peculiar to children, and gene- 
rallj" fatal, if care is not taken in the commence- 
ment. It commonly approaches with the usual 
signs of a catarrh, hut sometimes the peculiar 
symptoms occur at the first onset; namely, a 
hoarseness, with a shrill ringing sound both in 
speaking and coughing, as if the noise came from 
a brazen tube. At the same time tiiere is a sense 
of pain about the larynx, and some difficulty of 
respiration, with a whizzing sound in inspiration, 
as if the (passage of air was diminished: which is 
actually the case. The cough is generally dry, 
but, if any thing is spit up, it is a purulent matter, 
sometimes resembling small portions of a mem- 
Brane. There is also a frequent pulse, restlessness, 
and an uneasy sense of heat. The insiile of the 
mouth is sometimes without inflammation, but fre- 
quently a redness, and even a swelling, exist. 
Sometimes there is an appearance of matter on 
them, like that i-ejected by cougliing. 

Remedies. — As soon as possible a brisk emetic 
should be admisistered, for the purpose of freeing 
the patient from the coagulable lymph which is al- 
ready secreted. Topic .1 bleeding, by means of 
leeches, should immediately succeed, and the dis- 
charge be encouraged. As soon as it diminishes, 
a blister, so large as to cover the whole throat, 
should be applied, and suffered to lie on for thirty 
hours or longer. Then warm steam should be 
inhaled, and the bowels should be evacuated by 
calomel. 

As s')on as the emetic has operated sufiicienily, 
opium may be administered, by which means the 
breathing will in general be soon relieved; but 
should it become more difficult in the course of a 
few hours, the emetic is to be aga<n repeated, and 
ai'ter its operation the opium again employed. 
This practice is to be alternately used till such 
time as the patient is out of danger, wi»ich will in 
general be in the course of three or four days. 
The child should be kept nearly upright in bed. 

Aiiotlier remedy. — Administer two grains of 
calomel every four hours, until the decline of 
the disorder's severity. As an adjunct, api)ly an 
ointment to the breast, composed of 5 grains of 
emetic tartar, and 5 grains of powdered opium, to a 
drachm of spermaceti cerate, until eruptions are 
excited on the skin. 



USEFUL DOMESTIC MEDICINES. 

I}over''s sitdorijic poitsder. 

Take of ipecacuanha in powder,opium (purified), 
each 1 part, sulphate of potass, 8 parts. I'riturate 
them together into a fine powder. 

The dose is from -3 to 5 grains, repeated accord- 
ing as the patient's stomacli and strength can bear 
it. It is proper to avoid much drinking immedi- 
ately after taliing it, otherwise it is very apt to be 
rejected by vomiting, before any other effects are 
produced.' Perspiration should be kept up by 
diluents 

Aloetic powder ^Jrith iron. 

Take of socolrine aloei, powdered, 1| oz. 
myi-rh, powdered, 2 oz. ext> act of gentian and 
sulphate, each in powder, I oz. iMix them. 

in this powder we have an aloetic and chalybe- 
ate conjoined. It is an useful medicine, and is par- 
ticularly employed in cases of obstructed men- 
sti-uation. 

Compound assafcetida pills. 

Tate of assatcEtida, galbanum, ami myrrh, each 
1 oz. rectified oil of amber,. 1 drachm. Beat them 
iHto a mass with simple syrup. 

These pills are antihysteric and emmenagogue, 



and are very well calculated for answoring those 
intentions; half a scruple, a scruple, or more, may 
be taken every night, or oftener. 

Compound aloedc pius. 

Take of hepatic aloes, 1 oz. ginger powder, 1 
drachm, soap, ^ oz. essential oil of peppermint, 
\ drachm. 

Let the aloes and the ginger be rubbed well to- 
gether, then add the soap and the oil, so as to form' 
a mass. 

These pills may be advantageously used for ob- 
viating the habitual eostiveness of sedentary per- 
sons. The do£.e is from 10 to 15 grains. 
Aloetic and myrrh pills. 

Take of socotrine aloes, 4 drachms, myrrh, 2 
drachms, saffron, 1 drachm. Beat them into a 
mass with simple syrup. 

Thfse pills have been long employed to stimu- 
late and open the bowels in chlorotic, hypochon- 
driacal, and long diseased nabits. The dose is from 
10 grains to a scruple, twice a day. 
jPlianmer's pills. 

These pills are alterative, diaphoretic, purga- 
tive, and beneficial in cutaneous eruptions, &c. 

Take of calomel, 1 drachm, sulphate of anti- 
mony, 1 do. gum guaiacum, 2 drachms. 

Mix these assiduously with mucilage, and divide 
into 60 pills, two pills forming the dose. To be 
taken at night. 

Compound soap liniment. 

Take of camphor, 1 oz. soap, 3 oz. spirit of 
rosemary, 1 pint. 

Digest the soap in the spirit of rosemary until it 
be dissolved, and add to it the camphor. This is 
useful to excite action on the surface, and is used 
to disperse scrofulous enlargements, and to moist- 
en flannel which is applied to the throat in cases 
of quinsy. 

Cajeput opodeldoc. 

Take of almond soap, 2 oz. alcohol, 1 pint, 
camphor, 1 oz. cajeput oil, 2 oz. 

First dissolve the soap and camphor in the alco- 
hol in a retort, by means of a sand heat, and when 
the solution is about to congeal, or becomes nearly 
cold, add the oil of cajeput: shake them well to- 
gether, and put it into bottles to congeal. 

This composition is a great improvement on tht; 
opodeldocs in general use, and in cases of rheu- 
matism, paralytic numbness, chilblains, enlarge- 
ments of joints, and indolent tumours, where the 
object is to rouse the action of absorbent vessels, 
and to stimulate the nerves, it is a very valuable 
external remedy. 

In several cases of lumbago and deep seated 
rheumatic pains, it has been known to succeed in 
the almost immediate removal of the disease. 
Liniment of ammonia. 

Take of water of ammonia, ^ an oz. olive oil, 
l^oz. 

Shake them together in a phial till th^^y are 
mixed. 

In the inflammatory quinsy, a piece of flannel, 
moistened with this mixture, applied to the throat, 
and renewed every four or five hours, is one of the 
mast efficacious remedies. I5y means of this warm 
stimulating application, the neck, and sometimes 
the whole body, is put into a sweat, which, after 
bleeding, either carries oft' or lessens the inflam- 
mation. Where the skin cannot bear the acrimo- 
ny of this mixture, a larger proportion of oil may 
be used. 

Eau-de-liice. 

Ten or twelve grains of white soap are dissolv- 
ed in 4 oz. of rectified spirit ot wine; after which 
the solution is strained. A drachm of rrctified 
oil of amber is then added, and the whole filtered: 
with this solution should be mixed such a propor- 



MEDICINE. 



251 



don of the strongest volatile spirit of ammonia, in 
a clear glass uottle, as will, when sufficiently shak- 
en, produce a beautiful milk-white liquor. If a 
kind of cream should settle on the surface, it will 
be requisite to add a small quantity of the spiritu- 
ous solution of soap. Those who may wish to have 
this liquor water perfumed, may employ lavender 
or Hungary water, instead of the spirit of wine. 

This composition is, however, seldom obtained 
in a genuine state when purchased at the shops. 
Its use, as an external remedy, is very extensive: 
for it has not only been employed for curing the 
bites of vipers, wasps, bees, gnats, ants, and other 
insects, but also for burns, and even the bite of a 
mad dog, though not always with uniform success. 
Besides, it affords one of the safest stimulants in 
cases of suffocation from mephitic vai>ours, and in 
that state of apoplexy which is termed serous, as 
likewise after excessive intoxication, and in all 
those paralytic complaints where the vessels of the 
skin, or the muscular fibre require to be excited 
into action. 

Simple ointment. 

Take of olive oil, 5 oz. white wax, 2 oz. This 
is a useful emollient ointment for softening the 
«.kiii. 

Ointment of hog^s lard. 

Take of prepared hog's lard, i lbs. rose-water, 
3 oz. Beat tiie lard witli the rose-water until they 
be mixed: then melt the mixture with a slow fire, 
and set it apart that the water may subside; after 
which, pour off the lard from the water, constant- 
ly stirring until it be cold. 

Tliis ointment may be used for softening the 
skin, and healing chaps. 

Lip salve. ■ 

Melt together 2J oz. of white wa,?. 3 oz. of 
spermaceti, 7 02. oil of almonds, 1 dr. of balsam 
of Peru, and 1^ oz. of alkanet root wrapped up in 
a linen bag. 

Pour the salve into small gallipots or boxes, and 
cover with bladder and white leather. 

JBasilicon, or yelloiv resinous ointment. 

Take of yellow resin, 1 lb. 3'ellow wax, 1 do. 
olive oil, 1 pint. Melt the resin and wax with a 
gentle lieat; then a'dd the oil, and strain the mix- 
ture while yet warm. 

This plaster is employed for the dressing of brok- 
en chilblains, and other sores that require stimu- 
lating; it is also used to drive milk away, being 
placed over the tumid breasts when the child is 
■weaned. 

'rumer''s cerate. 

This ointment is known by the vulgar name of 
turner's cerate, as cui-ing the wounds of turners. 
It is generally used for broken chilblains. 

Take of prepared calamine, yellow wax, each 
^ lb. olive oil, 1 pint. 

Melt the wax with the oil, and as soon as they 
begin to thicken, sprinkle in the prepared cala- 
mine and keep it stirring till the cerate is cool. 
Savin ointment. 

Take of fresh savin leaves, separated from the 
stalks, and bruised, \ lb.; prepared hogs' lard, 2 
lbs.; yellow wax, | lb. Boil the leaves in the lard 
until they beccrae crisp; then filter with expres- 
sion; lastly, add the wax, and melt them to- 
getlier. 

This is an excellent issue ointment, being, in 
many respects, (n'eferable to those of cantbarides. 
It is mixed with equal parts of blistering ointment, 
in order to keep up a discharge. 

Mercurial ointment. 

Take of mercury, and mutton suet, each, 1 part; 
hogs' lartl, 3 parts. Hub the mercury diligently 
in a mortar with a little of the hog's lard, until (he 
globules disappear; then add the remainder of the 



lard, and rub until the ointment is completely prfe" 
pared. 

One drachm of this ointment contains twelve 
grains of mercury. 

The preparation of mercurial ointment requirea 
much labour, care, and patience. During tlie tri- 
turation, the mercury is mechanically divided into 
minute globules, which are prevented from running 
together again by the viscosity of ilie fat. These 
globules at length disappear, being oxidized, or 
rendered black by intimate mixture with the lard. 
Whatever tends to favour tliis, (for instance, a 
slight degree of rancidity of the lard,) sliortens 
the time, and lessens the labour required for the 
preparation of the ointment. It is not uncommon, 
however, to use other means, which are not admis- 
sible, to facilitate the process, such as the use of 
sulphur or turpentine. The first may be detected 
by the very black colour of tlie ointment, and also 
by the sulphurous odour exhaled when a paper 
covered with a little of it is held over the flame of 
a candle. The turpentine is detected by its odour 
also, when the ointment containing it is treated in 
the same manner. 

When uewly prepared, mercurial ointment has 
a liglit grey or bluish colour, owing tr> its con- 
taining some unoxidized metal, which separates in 
globules when it is liquefied by a gentle heat: when 
kept for some time, the colour is much deepened, 
and less metallic mercury is seen, owing to the 
more complete oxidizement of the metal. 
Cerate of Spanis/i flies. 

Take of cerate of spermaceti, softened with 
heat, 6 drachms; Spanish Hies, finely powdered, 
one drachm. Mix them by melting over a gentle 
fire. 

Under this form, cantbarides may be made to 
act to any extent lliat is requisite. It may supply 
the place either of the blistering plaster or oint- 
ment; and there are cases in which it is preferable 
to either. It is, particularly, more convenient 
than the plaster .of cantbarides, where the skin to 
which the blister is to be applied, is previously 
much affected, as in cases of small-pox: and in 
supporting a drain under the form of issue, it is 
less apt to spread than the softer ointment. 
Compound Burgundy pitch piaster. 

Take of iSiirguiidy J^jitch, 2 lbs. labdanum, 1 lb. 
yellow resin,,aiul yellow wax, each, 4oz. express- 
ed oil of mace, 1 oz. 

To the pitch, resin, and wax melted together, 
add first the labdanum, and then the oil of mace. 

After a long continued co.igh in the winter, a 
Burgundy pitch plaster should be put over the 
breast bone. 

Compound labdanum piaster. 

Take of labdanum, 3 oz. trankincense, 1 oz; 
cinnamon, powdered, expressed oil of mace, each 
\ oz. essential oil of mint, 1 dr. 

To the melted frdiikinuense add first the labda- 
num, softened by heat, tiien the oil of mace. Mi.x 
these afterwartls with the cinnamon and oil of mint, 
and beat tnem together, in a warm mortar, into 
a plaster. Let it be kept in a close vessel. 

This has been considered as a very elegant sto- 
macli plaster. It is contrived so as to be easily 
niiade occasionally (for these kinds of compositions 
on account of their volatile ingredients are not fit 
for keeping), and to be but moderately adhesive, 
30 as not to ofi:ei)d the skin, also that it may, with- 
out diillculty, be frequently renewed; which these 
applications, in order to their producing any con- 
siderable etfeot, require to be. They keep up a 
perspiration over the part affected, ami create a lo- 
cal action, wliich diverts inflammation; consump- 
tion from colds, in delicate habits, is by such means 
frequently obviated. 



252 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



Adiiesive plaster. 

Take of corarnon, or litharge plaster, 5 parts, 
■white resin, 1 part. 

Melt them together, and spread the liquid com- 
pound thin, on strips of linen, by means of a spa- 
tula, or table-knife. 

This plaster is very adliesive, and is used for 
keeping on other dressings, Ssc. 
Court plaster. 

Bruise a sufficient quantity of fish glue, and let 
it soak for twenty-four hours in a little warm water; 
e.xpose it to heat over the fire, to dissipate the 
greater part of the water, and supply its place b)- 
colourless brand}^ which will mi'c the gelatine of 
the glue. Strain the whole through a piece of 
open linen; on cooling, it will form a trembling 
jelly. 

Now extend a piece of black silk on a wooden 
frame, and fix it in that position by means of tacks, 
or pack thread. Then with a brush made of 
badger's hair apply the glue, after it has been ex- 
posed to a gentle heat to render it liquid. When 
this stratum is dry, which will soon be the case, 
apply a second, and then a third, if necessary, to 
give the piaster a certain thickness, as soon as the 
A'hole is dry, cover it with two or three strata of a 
strong tincture of balsam of Peru. 

This is the real English court plaster: it is plia- 
ble, and never breaks, characters which distinguish 
it from so many other preparations sold under the 
same name. 

Compnund tincture of rhubarb. 

Take of rhubarb, sliced, 2 oz. liquorice root, 
bruised, ^ oz. ginger, powdered, saffron, each 2 
dr. distilled water, I pint, proof spirit of wine, V2 
oz. by {measure. 

Digest for 14 days, and strain. Dose, ^ an oz. 
as an aperient, or 1 oz. iti violent diarrlicea. 
'1 mcture of g-mger. 

Take of ginger, in coarse powder, '2 oz. proof 
spirit, 2 pints. 

Digest in a gentle heat, for 7 days, and strain. 

This tincture is cordial and slimulaal, and is 
generally employed as a corrective to purgative 
draughts. 

Compound tincture of senna. 

Take of senna leaves, 2 oz. jalap root, 1 oz. 
coriander seeds, ^ oz. proof S[)irit, C^ pints. 

Digest for seven days, and to the strained liquor 
add 4 ounces of sugar candy. 

Tliis tincture is an useful carminative and ca- 
thartic, especially to those who have accustomed 
themselves to the use of siiirituous liquors; it often 
relieves flatulent compL.ints and colics, where the 
common cordials iuive little effect; the (lose is from 
1 to 2 ounces. It is a very useful addition to the 
castor-oil, in order to take off its mawkish taste; 
and, as coinciding with the virtues cf the oil, it is 
therefore much preferable to brandy, shrub, and 
such like liquors, whicii otherwise are often found 
necessary to make tlie oil sit on the stomach. 
I)ajfij''s elixir. 

Take of senna, 2 lbs. rhubarb sliavings, 2 lbs. 
jalap root, 1 lb. cara'.*^y seeds, I lb. aniseeds, 2 
lbs. sugar, i lbs. shavings of red sanders wood, 
^Ib. 

Oigest these in 10 gallons of spirit of wine, for 
14 days, and strain for use. 

riiis elixi" possesses almost the same qualities 
as tiie Coiupuund Tincture of Senna. The above 
quantities may be reduced to as small a scale as 
may be required. 

llie black drop. 

Take half a pound of opium, sliced, three pints 
of good verjuice, one and a half ounces of nutmeg, 
and half an oz. of saffron; boil them to a proper 
thickness, then add a quarter of a pound of sugar 



and two spoonsful of yeast. Set the vvhoje in a 
warm place, near the fire, for six or eight weeks, 
tlien place it in the open air until it becomes of the 
consistence of a syrup; lastly, decant, filler, and 
bottle it up, adding a little sugar to each bottle. 

The above ingredients ought to yield, when pro- 
perly made, about two pints of the strained liquor. 
Godfreif's cordial. 

Dissolve ^ an oz. of opium, 1 drachm of oil of 
sassafras, in 2 ounces of spirit of wine. Now 
mix 4 lbs. of treacle, with 1 gallon of boiling 
water, and when cold, mix both solutions. This 
is generally used to soothe the pains of children, 
he. 

Jialsam of honey. 

Take of balsam of Tolu, 2 oz. gum storax, 2 
drachms, opium, 2 do. honey, S oz. Dissolve 
these in a (|uart of spirit of wine. 

This balsam is exceedingly useful in allaying 
the irritation of cough. The dose is 1 or 2 tea- 
spoonsful in a little tea, or warm water. 
Tincture of the balsam of I olu. 

Take of balsam of Tolu, I oz. alcohol, 1 pint. 
Digest until the balsam be dissolved, and then 
strain the tincture through a paper. 

This solution of the balsam of Tolu possesses 
all the virtues of the balsam itself It may be 
taken internally, with the several intentions for 
which that balsam is pi'oper, to the quantity of a 
tea-spoonful or two, in any convenient vehicle. 

Mixed v.'iih simple syrup, it forms an agreeable 
balsamic syrup. 

Tincture of Peiiivian bark. 

Take of Peruvian bark, 4 oz. proof spirit, 2 
pints. Digest for tc! days, and strain. 

It may be given from a lea-spi'onfi.l to -^ an oz. 
or an ounce, according to llic dilferenl purposes it 
is intended to answer. 

Huxhani's tincture of bark. 

Take of Peruvian bark, pow<k'ivd, 2 nz. the 
])eel of Seville oranges, dried, ly do. Virginian 
snake root, bruised, 3 di-achms, saifron, 1 do. co- 
chineal, powdered, 2 scruples, proof spirit, 20 oz. 
Digest for l4 ilays, aiul strain. 

As a corroborant and stomachic, it is given in 
doses of two or three ilrachms; but when euiployed 
for the cure of intermittent fevers, it must be taken 
to a greater extent. 

Tincture of giuuaciim. 

Take of gnaiacum, 4 ounces, rectified spirit of 
wine, 2 pints. Digest for seven days, and filter. 

\\ hat is called gum guiiiaoum is, in fact, a resin, 
and perfectly soluble in alcohol. This solution is 
a powerfid stimulating sudorific, and may be given 
in doses of about j an ounce in rheumatic and 
asthmatic cases. 

Ammijidated tincture of guaiacnm. 

Take of resin of gnaiacum, in powder, 4 oz. 
ammoniated alcohiil, in powiler, Ig lbs. DigesI 
for seven days, and filler through a pa[)er. 

This is a very elegant and efficacious tincture; 
the ammoniated spirit readily dissolving the resin, 
and, at the same time, promoting its medical vir- 
tues. In rheumatic cases, a tea, or even laMe- 
spoonful, taken every morning and evening, in any 
convenient vehicle, jjarticularly in milk, lias 
proved of singular .service. 

Compound tincture of benzoin. 

Take of benzoin, 3 oz. purified storax, 2 oz. 
balsam of Tolu, 1 oz. socotiine aloes, ^ an oz. rec- 
tified spirit of wine, 2 pints. Digest for seven 
days, and filter. 

This preparition may be considered as an ele- 
gant simpliticatlon of some very complicated com- 
positions, which were celebraied under different 
names; such as Baume de Commandeur, Wade's 
Balsam, Friar's Balsam, Jesuit's Drops, iScc. 



MEDICINE 



263 



These, in general, consisted of a confused farrago 
of discordant substances. The dose is a tea-spoon- 
ful in some warm water four times a day, in con- 
sumptions and spitting of blood. It is useful, also, 
when applied on lint, to recent wounds, and serves 
the purpose of a scab, but must not be soon remov- 
ed. Poured on sugar it removes spitting of blood 
immediately. 

Tinctnre of catechu. 

Take of extract of catechu, 3 oz. cinnamon, 
bruised, '2 oz. diluted alcohol, 2 pints. Digest for 
seven days, and strain through paper. 

The cinnamon is a very useful addition to the 
catechu, not only as it warms the stomach, but 
likewise as it covers its roughness and astrtngency. 

This tincture is of service in all kinds of de- 
fluxions, catarrhs, loosenesses, and otiier disorders 
where astringent medicines are indicated. Two 
or three tea-spoonsful may be taken every now and 
then, in red wine, or any other proper vehicle. 
GodbolcVs vegetable balsam. 

A pound of sugar-candy, dissolved by heat, in a 
quantity of wliite wine vinegar, and evaporated to 
the measure of 1 pint, during which operation as 
much garlic as possible is dissolved with it, an- 
swers all the purposes of Godbold's Vegetable 
Balsam, and is probablj' the same medicine. 
Spirit of nutmeg. 

Take of bruised nutmegs, 2 oz. proof spirit, 1 
gsdlon, water sufficient to preveut burning. Distil 
off a gallon. 

This is used to take off" the bad flavour of medi- 
cine, and is a grateful cordial. 

Lavender -water. 

The common mode of preparing this, is to put 

3 drachms of J.he essential oil of lavender, and a 
drachm of the essence of ambergris, into 1 pint of 
spirit of wine. 

Water of pure ammonia. 

Take of sal-ammoniac, 1 lb. quick -lime, 2 lbs. 
water, 1 gallon. Add to the lime two pints of the 
water. Let tliem stand together an hour: then add 
the sal-ammoniac and the other six pints of water 
boiling, and immediately cover the vessel. Pour 
out the liquor when cold, and distil off, with a slow 
P.re, one pint. This spirit is too acrimonious for 
internal use, and has therefore been chiefly em- 
ployed for smelling to, in faintings, &c. though, 
when pi'operly diluted, it may be given inwardly 
with safety. 

Water of acetated ammonia. 

Take of ammonia, by weight, 2 oz. distilled 
vinegar, 4 pints; or as much as is sufficient to sa- 
turate the ammonia. 

This is an excellent aperient saline liquor. 
Taken warm in bed, it proves commonly a power- 
ful diaphoretic or sudorific; and as it operates 
,vithout heat, it is used in febrile and inflammatory 
disorders, where medicines of the warm kind, if 
they fail of procuring sweat, aggravate the distem- 
per. Its action may likewise be determined to the 
kidneys, by walking about in cool air. The com-' 
mon dose is half an ounce, either by itself, or 
along with other medicines adapted to the inten- 
tion. Its strength is not a little precarious, depend- 
ing on that of the vinegar. 

Slack pectoral lozenges. 

Take of extract of liquorice, gum-arabic, each, 

4 oz. white sugar, 8 oz. 

Dissolve them in warm water, and strain: then 
evaporate the mixture over a gentle fire till it be 
of a proper consistence for being formed into lo- 
zenges, which are to be cut out of any shape. 
White pectoral lozenges. 

Take of fine sugar, 1 lb, gum arable, 4 oz. 
starch, 1 oz; flowers of benzoin, ^ drachm. 

Having beaten them all in a powder, make them 



into a proper mass witn rose-water, so as to form 
lozenges. 

These compositions are very agreeable pectorals, 
and may be used at pleasure. They are calculated 
for softening acrimonious humours, and allaying 
the tickling in the throat which provokes coughing. 
Syrup of ginger. 
Take of ginger bruised, 4 oz. boiling distilled 
water, 3 pint's. 

]\lacerate four hours, and strain the liquor; then 
add double refined sugar, and make into a syrup. 

Tiiis syrup promotes the circulation through the 
extreme vessels; it is to be given in torpid and 
phlegmatic habits, where the stomach is subject to 
be loaded with slime, and the bowels distended 
with flatulency. Hence it enters into the compound 
tincture of cinnamon and the aromatic powder. 

Dyspeptic patients, from hard drinking, and 
those subject to flatulency and gout, have been 
known to receive considerable benefit by the use 
of ginger tea, taking two or three cupsful for 
breaklast, suiting it to their palate. 
Syrup of poppies. 

Take of the heads ot white poppies, dried, 3A 
lbs. double refined sugar, 6 lbs. distilled water, 8 
gallons. 

Slice and bruise theheads, then boil them in the 
water to three gallons, and press out the decoction. 
Reduce this, ijy boiling to about 4 pints, and strain 
it while hot through a sieve, then through a thin 
woollen cloth and set it aside for 12 hours, that the 
grounds may subside. Boil the liquor poured oif 
from the grounds to 3 pints, and dissolve the sugar 
in it, that it may be made a syrup. 

I'his syrup, impregnated with the narcotic mat- 
ter of the poppy-head, is given to children in doses 
of two or tliree drachms, and to adults of from ^ 
an oz. to one ounce and upwards, for easing pain, 
procuring rest, and answering the other intentions 
of mild operations. Particular care is requisite 
in its preparation, that it may be always made, as 
nearly as possible, of the same strength. 
Syrup of violets. 

Take of fresn flowers of the violet, 1 lb. boiling 
distilled water, 3 pints. 

Macerate for 25 hours, and strain the liquor 
through a cloth, without pressing, and add double 
refined sugar, to make the syrup. This is an 
agreeable laxative medicine for young children. 
Syrup of sqjiills. 

Take of vinegar of squills, 2 lbs. double I'efined 
sugar, in powder, 3^ lbs. 

Dissolve the sugar with a gentle heat, so as to 
form a syrup. 

This syrup is used chiefly in dvjses of a spoonful 
or two for promoting expectoration, which it does 
very powerfully. It is also given as an emetic to 
children. 

Oxymel of squills. 

Take of clarified honey, 3 lbs. vinegar of squills, 
2 pints. 

Boil them in a glass vessel, with a slow fire, to 
the thickness of a syrup. 

Oxymel of squills is an useful aperient, deter- 
gent, and expectorant, and of great service in hu- 
moral asthmas, coughs, and other disorders where 
thick pnlegra abounds. It is given in doses of tw« 
or three drachms, along with some aromatic water, 
as that of cii-namon, to prevent the great nausea 
which it would otherwise be apt to excite. In 
large doses it proves emetic. 

Vinegar of squills. 

Take of squills, recently dried, 1 lb.; vinegar, 6 
pints; proof spirit, ^ pint. 

Macerate the squill" with the vinegar, in a glass 
vessel, with a gentle heat, for twenty-four hours5 
then express the liquor, and set it aside until the 

W 



254 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



fseces subside. To the decanted liquor add the 
spirit. 

Vinegar of squills is a medicine of great anti- 
quity. It is a very powerful stimulant; and hence 
it is frequently used with great success as a diu- 
retic and expectorant. The dose of this medicine 
is from, a drachm to half an ounce: where crudities 
abound in the first passages, it may be given at 
first in a larger dose, to evacuate them bv vomit- 
ing. It is most conveniently exhibited along with 
cinnamon, or other agreeable aromatic waters, 
which prevent the nausea it would otherwise, even 
in small doses, be apt to occasion. 
Tar-watcr. 

Take of tar, 2 pints; water, 1 gallon. Mix, by 
stirring them with a wooden rod for a <^"iarter of 
an hour, and, after the tar has subsided, stram the 
liquor, and keep it in well corked phials. 

Tab-water should have the colour of white wine, 
and an erapyreuraatic taste. It is, in fact, a solu- 
tion of empyreumatic oil, effected by means of 
acetous acid. It acts as a stimulant, raising the 
pulse, and increasing the discharge by the skin 
and kidneys. It may be drank to the extent of a 
pint or two in the course of a day. 

Decoction of sarsaparilla. 

Take of sarsaparilla root, cut, 6 oz. ; distilled 
water, 8 pints. 

After macerating for two hours, with a heat about 
195 degrees, then take out the root and bruise it; 
add it again to the liquor, and macerate it for two 
hours longer; then boil down the liquor to 4 pints, 
and strain it. The dose is from 4 oz. to half a pint, 
or more, daily. 

Compound decoction of sarsaparilla. 

Take of sarsaparilla root, cut and bruised, 6 oz.; 
the bark of sassafras root, the shavings of guaiacum 
wood, liquorice root, each, 1 oz.; the bark of me- 
zereon root, 3 drachms; distilled water, 10 pints. 

Digest with a gentle heat for 6 hours; then boil 
down the liquor to one half (or five pints), adding 
the bark of the mezereon root towards the end of 
boiling. Strain off the liquor. The dose is the 
same as the last, and for the same purposes. 

These decoctions are of very great use in purifj'- 
ing the blood, and resolving obstructions in scor- 
butic and scrofulous cases; also in cutaneous erup- 
tions, and many other diseases. Obstinate swellings, 
that had resisted the efiect of other remedies tor 
above twelve months, have been cured by drinking 
a quart of decoction of this kind, daily, for some 
weeks. Decoctions of sarsaparilla ought to be 
made fi-esh every day, for they very soon become 
quite fcetid, and unfit for use, sometimes in less 
than 24 hours, in warm weather. 

Decoction of the tvoods. 
Take of guaiacum raspings, 3 oz.; raisins, 
stoned, 2 oz.; sassafras root, sliced, liquorice root, 
bruised, each 1 oz.; water, 10 lbs. 

Boil the guaiacum and raisins with the water, 
over a gentle fire, to the consumption of one half, 
adding, towards the end, the sassafras and liquorice, 
and strain the decoction without expression. 

This decoction is of use in some rheumatic and 
(cutaneous aftections. It may be taken by itself, to 
the quantity of a quarter of a pint, twice or thrice 
% day, or used as an assistant in a course of mer- 
curial or antimonial alteratives; the patient in either 
case keeping warm, in order to promote the opera- 
tion of the medicine. 

Water-gruel. 

Put a large spoonful of oatmeal into a pint of 
water, stir it well together, and let it boil three or 
four times, stirring it often. Then strain it through 

sieve, put in sbme salt according to taste, and if 
necessary add a piece of fresh butter. Stir with 



a spoon, until the butter is melted when it wjii.oe 
fine and smooth. 

Panada. 

Put a blade of mace, a large piece of the crumb 
of bread, and a quart of water, in a clean sauce- 
pan. Let it boil two minutes, then take out the 
bread, and bruise it very fine in a basin. Mix with 
it as much of the warm water as it will require, 
pour away the rest, and sweeten it to tlie taste ot 
the patient. If necessary, put in a piece of butter 
of the size of a walnut, but add no wine. Grate in 
a little nutmeg if requisite. 

Isinglass jelly, &c. 

Put an ounce of isinglass, and half an ounce of 
cloves, into a quart of water. Boil it down to a 
pint, strain it upon a pound of loaf sugar, and when 
cold add a !!ttle wine, when it will be fit for use. — 
A very nourishing beverage may be made by 
merely boiling the isinglass with milk, and sweet- 
ening with lump-sugar. 

Beef tea. 

Take off the fat and skin from a pound of lean 
beef, and cut it into pieces. Then put it into a 
gallon of water, with the under crust of a penny 
loaf, and a small portion of salt. Let the whole 
boil till reduced to 2 quarts, and strain, when it 
will be fit for use. 

Another method. — In some cases, when the pa- 
tient is very weak, the tea must be made thus:— 
Take a piece of lean beef, cut itT across and across, 
and then pour on it scalding water. Cover it up 
close, and let it stand till cold. Then pour it off, 
and warm it as the patient requires, having sea- 
soned it moderately. 

Transparent soup for convalescents. 

Cut tlie meat from a leg Of veal into small pieces, 
and break the bone into several bits. Put the meat 
into a very large jug, and the bones at top, with a 
bunch of common sweet herbs, a quarter of an oz. 
of mace, and half a pound of Jordan almonds, 
finely blanched and beaten. Pour on it four quarts 
of boiling water, and let it stand all night, covered 
close by the fireside. The next day put it into a 
well-tinned saucepan, and let it boil slowly, till it 
is reduced to two quarts. Be careful, at the time 
it is boiling, to skim it, and take ofi^ the fat as it 
rises. Strain into a punch-bowl, and when settled 
for two hours, pour it into a clean saucepan, clear 
from the sediments, if any. Add 3 oz. of rice, 
or 2 oz. of vermicelli, previously boiled in a little 
water. When once more boiled, it will be fit for 
use. 

Sedlitz potuders. 

Take of Rochelle salt, 1 drachm, carbonate ot 
soda, 25 grains, tartaric acid, 20 do. 

Dissolve the two first in a tumbler of water 
then add the latter, and swallow without loss ot 
time. 



SALUTART CAUTIOUS. 

Purification of -water by charcoal 
Nothing has been found so eftectual for preserv- 
ing water sweet at sea, during long voyages, as 
charring the insides of the caslcs well before they 
are filled. Care ought at the same time to be taken 
that the casks should never be filled with sea wa- 
ter, as sometimes happens, in order to save the 
trouble of shifting the ballast, because this tends 
to hasten the corruption of the fresh water after- 
wards put into them. W.ien the water becomes 
impure and otfensive at sea, from ignorance of the 
preservative effect produced on it by charring the 
casks previous to their being filled, it may be ren- 
dered perfectly sweet by putting a little fresh char- 



MEDICINE. 



255 



tpal in powder into each cask before it is tapped, 
or by filtering it through fresh burnt and coarsely 
powdered charcoal. 

No practice has answered better than that of 
charring their water casks on their inside. Three 
casks of water in one of his Majesty's dock yards, 
of three years' standing, were perfectly sweet when 
tapped. There is, therefore, little doubt but that 
water may be preserved fresh and fit for drinking 
for any length of time, in charred barrels. 
Clean&ies^. 
To preserve seamen in health, and prevent the 
prevalence of scurvy, and other diseases, it will be 
further necessary to keep the ship perfectly clean, 
and to have the different parts of it daily purified 
by a free admission of air, when the weather will 
admit of it, and likewise by frequent fumigations. 
This precaution will more particularly be. neces- 
sary for tlie purification of such places as are re- 
markably close and confined. 

I'reventieii of damptiess and cold. 
• The coldness and dampness of the atmosphere 
are to be corrected by sufficient fires. 

Cleanliness on board of a ship is highly neces- 
sary for the preservation of the health of seamen; 
but tiie custom of frequent swabbings or washings 
between the decks, as is too frequently practised, 
is certainly injurious, and greatly favours the pro- 
duction of scurvy and other diseases by a constant 
dampness being kept up. 

Exercise and amusements. 
The men should be made to air their hammocks 
and bedding every fine day; they should wash their 
bodies and apparel often, for which purpose an 
adequate supply of soap ought to be allowed; and 
they should change their linen and other clothes 
frequently. In rainy weather, on being relieved 
from their duty on the deck by the succeeding 
watch, they should take oft" their wet clothes, in- 
stead of keeping them on, and lying down in them, 
as they are too apt to do. Two sets of hammocks 
ought to be provided for them. In fine pleasant 
weather, and after their usual duty is over, they 
should be indulged in any innocent amusement 
that will keep their minds, as well as bodies, in a 
state of pleasant activity, and perhaps none is more 
proper than dancing. This makes a fiddle or a 
pipe and tabor, desirable acquisitions on board of 
every ship bound on a long voyage. 
Effects of climate, &c. 
In warm climates the crews of ships are healthier 
at sea when the air is dry and serene, and the heat 
moderated by gentle breezes, th-an when rainy or 
damp weather prevails; and they usually enjoy 
better health when the ship is moored at a con- 
siderable distance from the shore, and to wind- 
ward of any marshy ground or stagnant waters, 
than when it is anchored to leeward of these, and 
lies close in with the land. Masters of vessels, 
stationed at, or trading to, any parts between the 
tropics, will therefore act prudently, when they 
have arrived at their destined port, to anchor a 
considerable distance from the shore, and as far to 
windward of all swamps, pools, and lakes, as can 
conveniently be done, as the noxious vapours which 
will be wafted to the crew, when the ship is in a 
station of this nature, will not fail to give rise to 
diseases among them. 

Cautinnss to be obsei'ved -when on shore. 
When unavoidably obliged to submit to such an 
inconvenience, some means ought to be adopted to 
prevent disagreeable consequences from ensuing. 
For this purpose a large sail should be hoisted at 
the foremast; or most windward part of the ship, 
so as to prevent the noxious vapours from coming 
abaft; the cabin, steerage, and between the decks, 



should be fumigated now and then, and the seameo 
allowed to smoke tobacco freely. 

Unless absolutely necessary, it will be improper 
to permit any of the crew to sleep from on board, 
when stationed off an nnbeallhy shore; but when 
necessity obliges them to do so, for the purposes 
of wooding or watering, a tent or marquee sijould 
be erected, if a proper house cannot be procured, 
and this should be pitched on tlie dryest and high- 
est spot that can be found, being so situated, as 
that the door shall open towards the sea. Under 
cover of this, a suflicient number of hammocks are 
to be suspended for the accommodation of the men 
by night, as Ihey should by no means be suffered 
to sleep on the open ground. 

If the tent happens unfortunately to be in the 
neighbourhood of a morass, or has unavoidably 
been pitched on flat moist ground, it will be ad- 
visable to keep up a constant fire in it by day as 
well as by night; and asa further preventive against 
those malignant disorders which are apt to arise in 
such situations, the men should be directed to 
smoke freely of tobacco, and to take a wine-glass- 
ful of the compound tincture of Peruvian bark 
every morning, on an empty stomach, and the 
same quantity again at night. 

Cautions -when in tropical climates. 
In tropical climates, the healthiness of seamen 
will much depend upon avoiding undue exposure 
to the sun, rain, night air, long fasting, intempe- 
rance, unwholesome shore duties, especially during 
the sickly season, and upon the attention paid to 
the various regulations and preventive measures. 
The bad effects of remaining too long in port at 
any one time (independent of irregularities, of 
harbour duties, particularly after sunset, as well as 
during his meridian power), cannot be too strongly 
adverted to by the commander of every ship; and 
therefore a measure of the highest importance in 
the navy is the employment of negroes and natives 
of the country, or at least men accustomed to the 
torrid zone, in wooding, watering, transporting 
stores, rigging, clearing, careening ships, &c. ; and, 
in fine, in all su.-jh occupations as might subject 
the seamen to excessive heat or noxious exhala- 
tions, v/hich cannot fail to be highly dangerous to 
the health of the unassirailated seaman. 

The practice of heaving down vessels of war in 
the West Indies, in the ordinary routine of ser- 
vice at least, cannot be too highly deprecated, as 
well from the excessive fatigue and exertion it 
demands, as because it is a process which requires 
for its execution local security, or, in other words, 
a land that is locked, and therefore generally an 
unhealthy harbour. The instances of sickness 
and mortality from the eifects of clearing a foul 
hold in an unhealthy harbour, are too numerous to 
be specified. 

Intoxication. 
A veiy productive source of disease in warm 
climates among seamen, is an immoderate use of 
spirituous and fermented liquors, as they are too 
apt, whilst under a state of intoxication, to throw 
themselves on the bare ground, where, perhaps, 
they lie exposed for many hours to the influence of 
the meridian sun, the heavy dews of the evening, 
or the damp chilling air of the night. The com- 
mander of a ship who pays attention to the health 
of his crew, will therefore take every possible pre- 
caution to prevent his men from being guilty f ' an 
excess of this nature; and likewise that they do not 
lie out in the open air, when overcome by fatigue 
and hard labour. 

The different voyages of that celebrated naviga- 
tor, Captain Cook, as well as that of the unfortu- 
nate La Perouse, incontestably prove that by due 



256 



UMVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



care and a proper regimen, seamen may be pre- 
served from the scurvy and other diseases -which 
have formerly been inseparable from long sea 
voyages; and that they can thus support the fatigues 
of the longest navigations in all climates, and un- 
der a buiHiing sun. 

JYoxioiis vapours. 
Smoking or fumigating ships with charcoal or 
sulphur, is the most effectual means of killing all 
kinds of vermin, and is therefore always resorted 
to; but it is recommended that no sailor nor boy 
be allowed to go under the decks until the hatches, 
and all the other openings, have been for three 
hours uncovered; in that time all noxious vapours 
■will be effectually dissipated. • 
Captain Cook's rules for preserving the health of 
seamen. 

1. The crew to be at three watches. The men 
will by this means have time to shift and dry 
themselves, and get pretty well refreshed by sleep 
before called again to duty. When there is no 
pressing occasion, seamen ought to be refreshed 
with as much uninterrupted sleep, as a common 
day labourer. 

2. To have dry clothes to shift tliemselves after 
getting wet. — One of the officers to see that every 
man, ou going wet from his watch, be immediately 
shifted with dry clothes, and the same on going to 
bed. 

3. To keep their persons, hammocks, bedding, 
and clothes, clean and dry. — This commander 
made his men pass in review before him, one day 
in every week, and saw that they had changed their 

/ linen, and were as neat and clean as;circumstances 
would admit. He had also every day the ham- 
mocks carried on the booms, or some other airy 
part of the ship, unlashed, and the bedding tho- 
roughly shaken and aired. When the weather 
prevented the hammocks being carried on deck, 
they were constantly taken down, to make rooom 
for the fires, the sweeping, and other operations. 
When possible, fresh water was always allowed to 
the men to wash their clothes, as soap will not mix 
with sea-water, and linen washed in brine never 
thoroughly dries. 

4. To keep the ship clean between decks. 

5. To have frequent fires between decks, and 
at the bottom of the well. — Captain Cook's method 
was to have iron pot" with di'y wood, which he 
burned between decks, in the well, and other parts 
of the ship; during which time, some of the crew 
were employed in rubbing, with canvas or oakum, 
every part that had the least damp. Where the 
heat from the stoves did not readily absorb the 
moisture, loggerheads, heated red hot, and laid on 
sheets of iron, speedily effected the purpose. 

6. Proper attention to be paid to the ship's cop- 
pers,' to keep them clean and free from verdigris. 

7. The fat that is boiled out of the salt beef or 
pork, never to be given to the people. 

8. The men to be allowed plenty of fresh water, 
at the ship's return to port; the water remaining on 
board to be started, and fresh water from the shore 
to be taken in its room. 

By means of the above regulations, (in addition 
to rules relative to temperance; and supplying the 
crews as much as possible with fresh meat and 
vegetables), this celebrated navigator performed a 
voy.Hge of upwards of three years, in every climate 
of ue globe, with the loss of only one man. 
To obtain fresh -water from the sea. 

The method of obtaining fresh water from the 
sea by distillation, was introduced into the English 
navy in the year 1770, by Dr Irving, for which he 
obtained a parliamentary reward of £5000. 

In order to give a clear notion of Dr Irving's 
method, let us suppose a teakettle to be made 



without a spout, and with a hole in the lid, in the 
place of the knob; the kettle being filled with se»- 
water, the fresh vajjour, whicii arises from the 
water as it boils, will issue through the hole in 
the lid; into that hole fit the moutlr of a tobacco 
pipe, letting the stem have a little inclination 
downwards, then will the vapour of fresh water 
take its course through the stem of the tube, and 
may be collected by fitting a proper vessel to its 
end. 

This would be an apt representation of Dr Irv- 
ing's contrivanee, in which he has luted or adapted 
a tin, iron, or tinned copper tube, of suitable di- 
mensions, to the lid of the common kettle used for 
boiling the provisions on board a ship; the fresh 
vapour which arises from boiling sea-water in the 
kettle, passes, as by common distillation, through 
this tubo into a hogshead, which serves as a receiv- 
er; and in order that the vapour may be readily 
condensed, the tube is kept cool by being constant- 
ly wetted with a mop dipped in cold sea water. 
The waste water running from the mop, may be 
carried off by means of two boards nailed together, 
like a spout. Dr Irving particularly i-emarks, that 
only three-fourths of the sea-water' should be dis- 
tilled; the brine is then to be let off and the copper 
replenished, as the water distilled from the remain- 
ing concentrated brine is found to have a disagi-eea- 
ble taste; and as the farther continuation of the 
distillation is apt to be injurious to the vessels. 
When the water begins to boil, likewise, tlie va- 
pour should be allowed to pass freely for a minute; 
this will effectually cleanse the tube, and upper 
part of the boiler. 
To render sea-water capable of -washing linen. 
It is well known that sea-water cannot be em- 
ployed for washing clothes. — It refuses to dissolve 
soap, and possesses all the properties of hard 
water. 

This is a great inconvenience to seamen, whose 
allowance of fresh water is necessarily limited, 
and it prevents them from enjoying many of those 
comforts of cleanliness which contribute not a little 
to health. The method of removing this defect is 
exceedingly simple, and by no means expensive. 
It has lately been pointed out by Dr Mitchell, of 
New York: — Drop into sea-water a solution of 
soda, or potash. It will become milky, in conse- 
quence of the decomposition of the earthy salts, 
and the precipitation of the earths. This addition 
renders it soft, and capable of washing. Its milki- 
ness will have no injurious effect. 



PKESERYATIOS FROM BTlOWTfING ASD SHIPWEBCK. 



When a man falls overboard. 

The instant an alarm is given that a man is 
overboard, the ship's helm should be put dow% 
and she sliould be hove in stays; a hen coop or 
other object that can float should also be thrown 
overboard as near the man as possible, with a rope 
tied to it, and carefully kept sight of, as it will 
prove a beacon, towards which the boat may pull 
as soon as lowered down. A primary object is, 
having a boat ready to lower down at a moment's 
notice, which should be hoisted up at the stern if 
most convenient; the lashings, tackle, &c. to be 
always kept clear, and a rudder, tiller, and spai-e 
spar, to be kept in her. When dark, she should 
not be without a lanthorn and a compass. 

There shmdd also be kept in her a rope with a 
running bowline, ready to fix in or to throw to the 
person in danger. Coils of small rope, with ruft- 
ning bowlines, should also be kept in the chains, 
quarters, and abaft, ready to throw over, as it most 
generally occurs, that men pass close to the ship's 



MEDICINE. 



SSI 



BvdC) and have ofteu been miraculously saved by 
clinging to ropes. 

Upsetting' of a boat. 
If a person should fall out of a boat, or the boat 
upset by going foul of a cable, &c. or should he 
fall off the quays, or indeed fall into any water, 
from which he caiuiot extricate himself, but must 
wait some little time for assistance — had he pre- 
sence of mind enough to whip off his hat, and hold 
it b)" the brim, placing his fingers within side of 
the crown, (top upwards) he would be able, by 
this method, to keep his mouth above water till 
•assistance should reach him. It often hapjiens that 
<langer is apprehended long before we are involved 
in tlie peril, although there may be time enough 
to pfepaie this, or adopt any other method. Tra- 
vellers, in lording rivei-s at unknown fords, or 
where shallows are deceitful, might make use of 
this method with advantage. 

Cork -waistcoats. 
Provide a cork waistcoat, composed of four 
pieces, two for the breast and two for the back, 
each pretty near in length and breadth to the quar- 
ters of a waistooal without flaps; the whole is to be 
covered with coarse canvass, with two holes to put 
the arms through. There must be a space left be- 
tween the two back pieces, and the same betwixt 
each' back and breast ])iece, that they may fit the 
easier to the body. By this means the waistcoat 
is open oidy before, and may be fastened on the 
wearer by strings; or if it should bethought more 
secure, with buckles and leather straps. This 
waistcoat may be made up for five or six shillings. 
If those who use the sea occasionally, and espe- 
cially those who are obliged to be almost con- 
stantly there, were to use these waistcoats, it 
would '>e next to impossible that they should be 
drowned. 

Further means. 
It will likewise be proper to prepare an oil skin 
bag, on going to sea, for a temporary supply of 
provisions, in case of shipwreck. If suddenly 
plunged into the water, and unable to swim, it will 
be necessarj' to keep the hands and arms under 
the water — few animals being capable of drowning, 
owing to their inability to lift their fore legs over 
their heads. 

The legs, therefore, being necessarily immersed 
in the water, the di.Terence between the specific 
gravity of the animal and the water^ is sufficient to 
enable it to keep its nostrils and mouth above the 
water, and th?refore it is not suffocated by the 
fluid, but breathes freely. But man, on the con- 
trary, being able to lift his haiuls over his head, 
and generally doing so in case of this accident, his 
hands and arms make up the difference in specific 
gravity, and his head, impelled bj the weight of 
his hands and arms below the water, his body fills, 
and he is consequently choked and suffocated. The 
remedy therefore is, in all such cases, to keep 
down the hands and arms, and as a further secu- 
rity, to act with them under and against the water. 
It will then be impossible to sink, unless the weight 
of clothes or other circumstances operate to the 
contrary. 

The marine spencer. 
The marine spencer is made in the form of a 
girdle, of a proper diameter to fit the body, and 
six inches broad, composed of about 500 old tavern 
corks, strung upon a strong twine, well lashed to- 
gether with lay-cord, covered with canvass, and 
painted in oil so as to make it water-proof. Two 
tapes of cords, about two feet long, are fastened 
to the back of the girdle with loops at the ends. 
Another tape or cord of the same length, having a 
few corks strung to the middle of it, is covered 
with canvass painted. A pin of hard wood, three 
2 H 



inches long and half an inch in diameter is fast- 
ened to the front of the girdle by a tape or cord, 
about three inches long. To use the spencer, it 
should be slidden from tlie feet close up to the arms{ 
the tapes or cords are to be brought one over each 
shoulder, and fastened by the loops to the pin: 
those between tlte legs are. -to be fastened to tlie 
other pin. A person thus equii)ped, though unac- 
quainted with swimming, may safely trust himself 
to the waves; for he will float, head and shoulders 
above water, in any storm, and by paddling with 
his hands, may easily gain the shore. Such a spen- 
cer may also be made of cork shavings put into a 
long canvass bag. 

It has also been suggested, that every part of the 
usual dress of the sailor should be made with a 
view of preserving his life, in cases of accident; and 
for this purpose that a quantitj- of cork shavings 
or clippings sliould be quilted into liis jacket about 
the collar and neck, between the outside and in- 
side lining: or as a belt, of considerable breadth 
across the back and shoulders, then principally 
omitted under the arms, and resumed over the 
chest and stomach, yet not so much as to create in- 
convenience. If in these, and other parts of his 
dress, so much cork could comniodiously be work- 
ed, as would give the sailor an opportunity of re- 
covering himself, and making use of his own pow- 
ers in cases of contingency, many valuable livei 
might be saved. 

Jiamboo habit. 

The baniboo habit is an invention of the Chinese, 
by the use of which, a person unskilled in the art 
of swimming, may easily keep himself above water. 
The Chinese merchants, when going on a voyage, 
are said always to provide themselves with this 
simple apparatus, to save their lives in cases of 
dangerfrom shipwreck. It is constructed by plac- 
ing four bamboos horizontally, two before, and two 
behind the body of each person, so that they pro- 
ject about twenty-eight inches; these are crossed on 
each side by two others, and the whole properly 
secured, leaving an intermediate space for the 
bod)'. "When thus formed, the person in danger 
slips it over his head, and ties it securely to the 
Avaist, by which simple means he cannot possibly 
sink. 

To extricate persons from broken ice. 

Let two or more persons hold a rope or ropes, 
at both ends, stretched over the broken ice; so that 
the drowning person may catch hold of it. 
The life boat. 

The life-boat is generally thirty feet long, and 
in form much resembling a common Greenland 
boat, except the bottom, which is much flatter. She 
is lined with cork, inside and outside of the gun- 
wale, about two feet in breadth, and the seats un- 
derneath are filled with cork also. 

She is rowed by ten men, double banked, and 
steered by two men with oars, one at each end, 
both ends being alike. Long poles are provided 
for the men, to keep the boat from being driven 
broadside to the shore, eitiier in going off or land- 
ing. About six inches from the lower poles, it 
increases in diameter, so as to form aflat surface 
against the sand. The weight of the cork used in 
the boat is about seven cwt. 

She draws very little water, and when full is able 
to carry twenty people. The boat is able to con- 
tend against the most tremendous sea and brokee 
w^ter; and never, in any one instance. Las she 
failed in bringing the crew in distress into a place 
of safety. The men have no dread in going off 
with her in the highest sea and broken water: cork 
jackets were proviaed for them; but their confi— 
fidence in the boat is so great, tliat they do notcuse 
them. 



258 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



Tlie success attending; this expedient for dimin- 
ishing the number of unhappy individuals almost 
daily lost in a watery grave, appears to have been 
more than equal to the most sanguine expectations 
formed of its utility, and the great ohject in \]ew, 
viz. the safety of those persons vifho hazard tlieir 
own security to preserve others, has been fully ac- 
complished. 

Safe and readily conslnicted life-boat. 

In April, 18J6, a model of a life-boat was exhi- 
bited before the Royal Humane Society, which may 
be put together in the space of half an hour, in any 
case of shipwreck, and which cannot sink or over- 
set, let the sea run ever so high. All that is neces- 
sary to be provided is, a keel or plank of any con- 
venient length, and a few pigs of iron, such as 
vessels usually carry out for ballast. The officers 
of the ship are to take care to keep two or three 
empty water-casks, perfectly tight, the bung-holes 
corked up, and a piece of tin or leather nailed 
over them. These casks are to be lashed with 
ropes to the Keel, along with tlie pigs of iron for 
ballast; and any spare poles or spars may be also 
lashed to the sides, so as to give the raft the form 
of a vessel, and at each end to make a lodgement 
for the men. Any of the square sails of the ship 
will form a lug-sail, and may speedily be adapted 
to the new life-boat, and a strong and broad spar 
may be lashed on as a rudder. 

Jlnother. — Let a quantity of ballast, even more 
than what is commonly used for sailing, be laid in 
the bottom of the boat, over this lay bags filled 
with cork, prepared for the purpose, and numbered 
according to their places, and if considerably 
higher than the gunwales so much the better; a sail 
or part of one folded may be thrown over from 
stem to stern, to combine and unite the several 
parts; and lastly, the whole is to be secured to- 
gether by passing ropes by so many turns as may 
be deemed sufficient, round and round over the 
gunwales and under the keel, and these, if neces- 
sary, may be pitched by a turn or two taken 
lengthwise. 

Every person either on board or holding by the 
boat, so prepared, may be absolutely certain of 
being carried safe through any breach whatever. 

"When no such preparation of cork has been 
made, the following is proposed as a substitute: 

Let a quantity of ballast, as coals in canvass, be 
secured in its place, as well as ciixjumstances will 
admit; then take an empty water cask (beer cask, 
or any others that are tight) and fill the boat witfi 
them, and if the bilge of the cask rises considerably 
higher than the gunwales, it will be so much the 
better; let a sail then be thrown in to jam the cask 
and ballast in their places, as well as to combine 
and unite the several parts by covering all fore and 
aft; and lastly, let the whole be lashed and s.ecured 
together, in the manner above stated. It is be- 
fieved the boat in this trim would always continue 
upright on her keel, be livjly and buoyant on the 
water, and have sufficient efficacy to support the 
crew of any ordinary vessel, till drifted within their 
own depth. 

It frequently happens that after men have gained 
the shore, they perish of cold for want of dry 
clothes. As a remedy for this, every man should 
try to secure one or two flannel or woollen shirts, 
by wrapping them up tightly in a piece of oiled 
cloth or silk; and to guard against tearing, the last 
might be covered with canvass, or inclosed in a tin 
uox. 

Further method of preservation in cases of ship- 
ivrecks. 

It being the great object, in cases of shipwreck, 
to establish a communication betwixt the vessel 
tnd the shore with the least possible delay, various 



methods have been invented and pointed out fof 

this purpose. 

A common paper kite launched from the vessel, 
and driven by the wind to the shore has been sup- 
posed capable of conveying a piece of ])ack thread, 
to which a larger rope might be attached and drawn 
on board. 

A small balloon, raised by rarified air might be 
made to answer the same purpose. 

A sky rocket, of a large diameter, has also been 
considered as capable of an equal service, and, in- 
deed, this method seems the best; for besides the 
velocity of the discharge, could it be brought to act 
during the night, it must both point out the situa- 
tion of the ship, and the direction that the line 
took in flying ashore. • 

Useful hints ivhen a leak is spnr\g. 

When a vessel springs a leak near her bottom, 
the M'ater enters with all tlie force given by the 
weight of the column of water without, which force 
is in proportion to the difference of the level be- 
tween the water without and that within. It enters 
therefore with more force at first, and in greater 
quantity than it can afterwards, when the water 
within is higher. The bottom of the vessel, too, 
is narrower, so that the '>qme quantity of water 
coming into that narrow part, rises faster than 
when the space for it is larger. This helps to 
terrify. But as the quantity entering is less and 
less, as the surfaces witliout and within become 
more nearly equal in height, the pumps that could 
not keep the water from rising at first, might after- 
wards be able to prevent its rising higiier, and the 
people might have remained on board in safety, 
without hazarding themselves in an open boat on 
the wide ocean. 

Besides tlie greater equality in the height of the 
two surfaces, there may sometimes be other causes 
that retard the farther sinking of a leaky vessel. 
The rising water within may arrive at quantities of 
light wooden works, empty chests, and particularly 
empty water casks, which, fixed so as not to float 
themselves, may iieli> to sustain her. Many bodies 
wiiich compose a ship's cargo may be specifically 
lighte' than water: all these, when out of water, 
are an additional weight to tliat of the ship, and she 
is in proportion pressed deeper in the water, but 
as soon as these bodies are immersed, they weigh 
no longer on the ship: but, on the contrary, if fixed, 
they help to support her in proportion as they are 
specifically lighter than tlie water. 

Temporary nautical pump. 

Captain Leslie, of the George and Susan, in a 
voyage from North America to Stockholm, adopt- 
ed an excellent mode of emptying water from his 
ship's hold, when tfie crew were insufficient to per- 
form that duty. About 10 or 12 feet above the 
pump, he rigged out a spar, one end of which pro- 
jected overboard, while the oiher was fastened, as 
a lever, to the machinery of the pump. To the 
end which projected overboard, was suspended a 
water-butt, half full, but corked down; so that 
when the coming wave raised tlie butt-end, the 
other end depressed the piston of the pump; but 
at the retiring of the wave, this was reversed, for, 
by the weight of the butt, the piston came up again, 
and with it the water. Thus, without the aid of 
the crew, the ship's hold was cleared of the water 
in a few hours. 

Another. — When a vessel springs a leak at sea, 
which cannot be discovered, instead of exhausting 
the crew by continual working a, the pumps, they 
may form, with very little trouble, a machine to 
discharge the water, which will work itself, with- 
out any assistance from the hands on board. 

Let a spar, or spare top-mast, be cut to the 
length of eiglit or ten feet, or more, according to 



MEDICINE. 



259 



the size of the vessel; mortice four holes through 
the thickest end, through which run four oars, fix- 
ing them tight, exactly in tl>e middle. To the four 
handles nail on four blades, (made of staves) the 
size of the other ends, which will form a very good 
water wheel if the oars be strong: then fix into the 
opposite end what is commonly called a crank: 
the iron liandle of a grindstone would suit extreme- 
ly well: if this is not to be had, any strong bar of 
iron mav be bent into that form, wedging it tiglit 
to prevent its twisting round. Then nail up a new 
pair of chaps on the fore part of the pump, for a 
new handle to be fixed in, which will point with 
its outer end to the bow of the vessel; this handle 
will be short on the outside, but as long on the in- 
side as tbe diameter of the bore of the pump will 
admit, in order lliat the spear may be plunged the 
deeper, and of course the longer stroke. The 
handle must be large encagh to have a slit sawed 
up it, sufficient to admit a stave edgeways, which 
must be fastened with a strong iron pin, on whicb 
it may work. The lower end of the stave must 
be bored to admit the round end of the crank; 
then fix the shaft, with the oars (or arms) over the 
gunwals, on two crotchets, one spiked to the gun- 
wale, and the other near tlie pump, cutting in the 
shaft a circular notch, as well to make it run ea- 
sier, by lessening the friction, as to keep the whole 
steady. A bolt is now to be fixed in each crotchet 
close over the shaft, to keep it from rising. As 
soon as the wheel touches the water it will turn 
round, and the crank, by means of the stave fixed 
on its end, will work the handle of the pump. 
'I'o render the sinking of a ship impossible. 

According to the present plan of ship-building, 
in case of leaks at sea, vhicli cannot be kept under 
by pumping, the ships and crews roust inevitably 
be lost, to the great affliction and loss of thousands 
of families. In order to prevent such accidents in 
future, which hitherto have been too common, a 
gentleman, of tl>e name of Williams, suggests an 
easy arrangement, which, if universally adopted, 
even under the worst circumstances, will enable 
the crew to save not only themselves, but the ship 
and cargo likewise: — 

It is, that every ship should be divided into four 
eijual comjjartments, with partitions of sufficient 
strengtii; the probability, in case of a leak is, that 
it would take place in one of them; and allowing 
it to fill, the safety of the ship would not be endan- 
gered, for 3-4 of the cargo would remain undam- 
aged. To prove this, we will suppose a vessel of 
one hundred tons so divided, (though the plan is 
as applicable to a ship of one thousand tons as a 
canal boat) and, that one of the compartments fill- 
ed with water: this would not increase her weight 
more than from six to eight tons, from the cargo 
previously occupying tiie space, and reducing her 
buoyancy about one-third. The same effect would 
take place, was she sent out of port with only one- 
fourth of her hull above water, though vessels are 
more commonly sent out with one-third, and even 
more. Packets, as they carry little or no cargo, 
may with safely be divided into three compart- 
ments. In cases of fire the advantage is equally 
obvious, as any of the quarters might be inundated 
with safety. 



Art of s-wimming. 
It has been observed before, that men are drown- 
ed by raising their arms above the water; the un- 
buoyed weight of which depresses the head: all 
other animals have neither motion nor ability to 
act in "i. similar manner, and, therefore, swim na- 



turally. \VTien a man therefore falls into deep 
water, he will rise to the surface, and continue 
there if he does not elevate his hands. If he move 
his hands under llie water in any manner he pleases, 
his head will rise so high as to allow him liberty 
to breathe; and if he move his legs, as in the act 
of walking, (or rather of walking up stairs), his 
shoulders will rise above the water, so that he may 
use less exertion with his hands, or apply them to 
other purposes. These plain directions are recom- 
mended to the attention of thrse who have noit 
learned to swim in their youth, and they will, if 
attended to, be found highly advantageous in pre- 
serving life. 

If a ])erson falls into the water, or gets out of 
his depth, and cannot swim — and if he wishes to 
drown himself, let him kick and splash as vio- 
lently as possible, and he will soon sink. On the 
contrary, if impressed with the idea that he is 
lighter than the water, he avoids all violent action, 
and calmly hut steadi'y strives to refrain from 
drawing in his breath whilst under the water, and 
keeps his head i-aised as much as possible; and 
gently, but constantly, moves his hands and feet 
in a proper direction, there will be a great proba- 
bility of his keeping afloat until some aid arrives. 
Cramp in batldng. 
For the cure of the cramp, when swimming, Dr 
Franklin recommends a vigorous and violent shock 
of the part affected, by suddenly and forcibly 
stretching out the leg, which should be darted out 
of the water, into the air, if possible. 
Precautions in bathing. 
Never venture into cold water, when the body 
is much heated. 

Dr Franklin relates an instance, within his own 
knowledge, of four young men, who, having work- 
ed at harvest in the heat of the day, with a view 
of refreshing themselves, plunged into a spring of 
cold water; two died upon the spot, a third the 
next morning, and the fourth recovered with great 
difficulty. 

Be very careful where you bathe, even though 
ever so good a swimmer, lest there should be weeds 
to entangle the feet, or any thing else to endanger 
life. It is hy the neglect of this precaution tnat 
many good swimmers expose themselves to greater 
danger than those who cannot swim at all; their 
very expertness thus becoming fatal to them, by 
tempting them into places where their destruction 
is inevitable. 

Sea-bathing. 
The use of the tepid salt water bath, or indeed 
of sea-bathing itself, when the water is warm, 
(that is,) between 60 and 80 degrees of heat, is in 
many cases beneficial, when a colder temperature 
would be dc-cidedly injurious. 

It may be satisfactory to know, that in situations 
distant from the shore, where sea-water cannot be 
had, artificial sea-water, made hy dissolving i lbs. 
of bay-salt in 16 gallons of fresh water, possesses 
all the properties of the w?ter of the sea, a small 
portion of sulphate of magnesia excepted. 
The shower-bath. 
The cold shower-bath is less alarming to ner- 
vous persons, and less liable to produce cramps, 
than cold immersion; it may be considered as the 
best and safest mode of cold bathing, and is re- 
commended in many nervous complaints. 

It has also afforded relief in some cases of in- 
sanity. 

Substitute for a shoiver bath. 
Where the saving oi' expense is an object, it may 
be effectually answered by filling a common water- 
ing ppt with cold water. Let the patient sit un- 
dressed upon a stool, which may be placed in a 
large tub, and let the hair, if not cut snort, be 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



spread over the shoulders as loosely as possible. 
^5'ow pour the water from the pot over the patient's 
ead, face, neck, shoulders, and all parts of the 
oody, progressively down to the feet, until the 
whole has been thoroughly wetted. 

A large sponge may, in some measure, be sub- 
stituted for the shower bath; particularly in affec- 
tions of the head, which arise from intemperance, 
night watching, study, or other perplexity. Head- 
ache, from these causes, will be greatly alleviated 
by wiping the top and fore-part of the liead with 
a sponge frequei.tly dipped in water. The cold 
thus produced will check the determination of 
blood to tlie head, and has often b 'en known to 
prevent delirium and insanity. 

The tepid-bath. 

On immersing the body in a tepid-bath, which 
takes its range from 85 to 95 degrees, no striivUig 
sensation either of heat or cold i? felt. But a per- 
son much chilled, will, on entering the tepid-bath, 
feel the water warm, while another, who had been 
heated by exercise, will find it insensibly cold. 

The tepid-bath is attended with several advan- 
tages: the suri^ce of the skin is, by it, freed from 
that scaiy matter, wliich always collects more or 
less in the healthiest person; the pores of the skin, 
thus being free, the natural perspiration is pro- 
moted, the limbs are rendered supple, and any 
stiffness, wliich may have been produced by exer- 
tion, or fatigue, is removed. Such immersion has 
been found to allay thirst; a proof that a quantity 
of water is absorbed, and enters the body through 
the skin. 

The tepid-bath seems the best adapted to the 
purposes of cleanliness and healthy exercise. To 
delicate females, and young children, it is of pri- 
maiy importance. Nothing can be more absurd 
than the common practice of mothers and nurses 
in washing children, no matter how sickly or un- 
well, with cold water, under the idea of bracing 
the constitution: whereas, the use of tepid water 
alone, is not only the most agreeable, but the most 
proper fluid to excite the energies of the system 
in young children. 

Affusion with tepid water has generally the 
same result, except, that if the body continue ex- 
posed to the air after the afTusion, a sensation of 
cold is produced, which ought to be avoided, by 
wiping dry the upper part of the body, whilst the 
lower extremities are still covered with water. 

There can be little doubt, that human existence, 
by tepid bathing, temperance, and proper exercise, 
may be made more agreeable, and also be pro- 
longed. 



fiKN^ERAL RULES FOR PRESERVINe LIFE AND HEALTH. 

Sir R. Phillips''s rules. 

1. Rise early, and never sit up late. 

2. Wash the whole body every morning with 
cold water, by means of a large sponge, and rub 
it dry with a rough towel, or scrub the whole body 
for ten or fifteen minutes with tlesh brushes. 

3. Driiik water generally, and avoid excess of 
spirits, wine, and fermented liquors. 

4. Keep the body open by the free use of the 
sj'ringe, and remove superior obstructions by ape- 
rient pills. 

5. Sleep in a room which has free access to the 
open air. 

6. Keep the head cool by washing it when neces- 
jaiy with cold water, and .nbate feverish and in- 
flammator)'^ symptoms when they arise by perse- 
vering stillness. 

7. Correct symptoms of plethora and indigestion 
by eating- und drinking less per diem for a few days. 



8. Never eat a hearty supper, especially of anf- 
mal food; and drink wine, spirits, and beer, if 
these are necessary, only after dinner. 
Dr Boerhaave''s rules. 

This great man left, as a legacy to the world, 
the following simple and unerring directions for 
preserving health; they contained the sum and sub- 
stance of his vast professional knowledge, during^ 
a long and useful life: — " Keep the feet warm; the 
head cool; and the body open." — If these M'ere 
generally attended to, the physician's aid would 
seldom be required . 

Clothing. 

To adapt the dress with a scrupulous nicety to the 
fluctuations of temperature everj^ day, would in- 
deed require such minute attention as hardly any 
person can bestow: but everv person may comply 
with the general rules of clothing, as far as not to 
lay aside too early the dress of the winter, nor to 
retain that of the summer too late; from a neglect 
of which precaution thousands of lives are every 
year sacrificed to mortality. The perfection of 
dress, considered merely as such, is to fit without 
fettering the body, 

Air. 

Nothing is more pernicious than the air of » 
place where a numerous body of people are col- 
lected together within doors; especially if to the 
breath of the crowd there be added the vapours of 
a multitude of candles, and the consumption of the 
vital air by fires in proportion. Hence it happens, 
that persons of a delicate constitution are liable to 
become sick or faint in a place of this kind. These 
ought to avoid, as much as possible, the air of great 
tOM'ns; which is also peculiarly hurtful to the asth- 
matic and consumptive, as it is likewise to hysteric 
women, and men of weak nerves. Where such 
people cannot always live without the verge of 
great towns, they ought, at least, to go out as often 
as they can into the open air, and, if possible, pass 
the night in the wholesome situation of the suburbs. 
Ventilation. 

Air that has long stagnated becomes extremely 
unwholesome to breathe, and often immediately 
fatal. Such is that of mines, wells, cellars, &e. 
People ought tlierefore to be very cautious in en- 
tering places of this description which have been 
long shut up. The air of some hospitals, jails, 
ships, &c. partakes of the same unwholesome and 
pernicious nature; and they o'\ght never to be des- 
titute of ventilators — those useful contrivances for 
expelling foul, and introducing fresh air into its 
place. The same may be said of all places where 
numbers of people are crowded together. 

It is found that most plants have the property 
of correcting bad air within a few hours, when 
they are exposed to the light of the sun; but that, 
on the contrary, during the night, or in the shade, 
they corrupt the common air of the atmospiiere. 
Hence it is a dangerous practice to have shrubs in 
an apartment that is slept in. 

Ventilation of churches. 

Both in public and private buildings there are 
errors committed, whicVi aft'ect in an extraordinary 
degree the salubrity of the air. Churches are sel- 
dom open above once a week; they are nevej" ven- 
tilated by fires, and rarely by opening the windows: 
while, to render the air of them yet more unwhole- 
some, little or no attention is paid to keeping them 
clean. The consequence of which is, that they 
are damp, musty, and apt to prove hurtful to peo- 
ple of weak constitutions; and it is a common re- 
mark, that a person cannot pass through a large 
church or cathedral, even in summer, without a 
strong sense of coolness. 

Ventilation of hoiises. 

The great attention paid to making houses clos« 



MEDICINE. 



S61 



»nd warm, though apparently well adapted to the 
comfort of the inhabitants,*is by no means favoura- 
ble to health, unless care be taken every day to 
admit fresh air by the windows. Sometimes it mav 
be proper to make use of what is called pumping 
the room, or moving the door backward and for- 
ward for some minutes together. The practice of 
making the beds early in the day, however it may 
suit convenietice or delicacy, is doubtless impro- 
per, it would be much better to turn them down, 
and e.Ypose them to the influence of the air admit- 
ted by the windows. 

For many persons to sleep in one room, as in 
the ward of a hospital, is hurtful to health; and 
it is scarcely a less injurious custom, though often 
practised by those who have splendid houses, for 
two or more to sleep in a small apartment, especi- 
ally if it be very close. 

Houses situated in low marshy countries, or near 
lakes of stagnating water, are likewise unwhole- 
some; as they partake of the putrid vapours ex- 
haled in such places. To remedy this evil, those 
who iniiabit them, if they study their health, ought 
to use a more generous diet than is requisite in 
more diy and elevated situations. 

Burying in churches, &c. 
It is almost every where too common to have 
church-yards in the middle of populous towns. 
This is not only reprehensible in point of taste, 
but, considering how near to the surface of the j 
earth the dead bodies in many places are deposited, | 
there nmst necessarily arise putrid vapours, which, I 
however imperceptible, cannot fail to contaminate 
the air. The practice of bui-ying in churches is [ 
still more liable to censure; and not many years 
ago, tiie pernicious effects of this custom were so | 
severely felt in France, as to occasion a positive 
edict against it. 

To dissipate noxious vapours in wells, &c. 
Procure a pair of smith's bellows, affixed on a 
wooden frame, so as to work in the same manner 
as at the forge. This apparatus being placed at 
the edge of the well, one end of a leathern tube, 
(the nose of a fire engine) should be closely adapt- 
ed to the nose of the bellows, and the other end 
thrown into the well, reaching within one foot of 
the bottom. 

If the well be even so infected, that a candle 
will not burn at a short distance from the top; af- 
ter blowing with the bellows o,"ly half an hour, 
the candle will burn bright at tne bottom; then, 
without further difficulty, proceed in the work. 

It is obvious, that in cleaning vaults, or working 
in any subterraneous place subject to damps, the 
same method must be attended with the like bene- 
ficial effects. 

Persons, whose business requires them to attend 
upon large (piantities of fermenting liquors, or to 
work in close places with lighted charcoal, fre- 
quently experience head-ache, giddiness, and other 
disagreeable effects from the noxious vapours 
which these exhale, and often have their Health 
impaired, or their lives endangered by a continu- 
ance in the employment. In some cases, the dan- 
ger, perhaps, cannot be avoided, except by going 
into the 0))en air, as soon as head-ache or giddiness 
begins, and drinking a glass of cold water, or 
washing tlie face and neck with the same. In the 
i-ase of persons whose work requires charcoal fires, 
the dangerous effects of it may be preveated, by 
taking care not to sit near it when burning, or to 
burn it in a chimney, and when there is none, to 
keep the door open, and place a large tub of lime- 
water in the room. 

'To protect gilders, jewellers, and others from the 
peimicious effects of charcoal. 
It ia advisable for ail those who are exposed to 



the vapours of charcoal, particularly gilders, jew- 
ellers, refiners of metals, &c. to place a flat vewel, 
filled with lime-water, near the stove in which the 
charcoal is burnt. 

The lime strongly attacks ihe mephitic gas 
evolved by the ignited charcoal, and preserves the 
purity of the air. When the surface of the water 
becomes covered with a film, or pellicle, it luust 
be changed for a fresh quantity. 
To prevent lamps from proving l>erniciovs to csth- 
' matic persons. 

The smoking of lamps is frequently disregarded 
in domestic life; but the fumes ascending from oil. 
especially if it be tainted or rancid, are highly 
pernicious, wiien inhaled into the lungs of asth- 
matic persons. To prevent this, let a sponge, 
three or four inches in diameter, be moistened 
with pure water, and in that state be suspended by 
a string or wire, exactly over the Hame of the lamp, 
at the distance of a few inches; this substance will 
absorb all the smoke emitted during the evening 
or night, after which it should be rinsed in warm 
water, by which means it will be again rendered 
fit for use. 

To disinfect substances of the plague. 
Chlorine has been successfully used in Spain for 
this purpose, in the following manner. 

Expose four ounces of meat in a saucer, until it 
becomes nearly putrid: suspend bits of paper, fur, 
feathers, cotton, silk, and wool, upon hooks fixed 
in a horizontal piece of wood, attached to a perpen- 
dicular one, which is supported by a pedestal of 
lead; cover the whole with a bell-glass fixed in the 
rim of a piece of wood on which the saucer is 
placed. The edges of the rim should be puttied. 
fix a cork very tiglit in the top aperture of the 
bell-glass, and let the whole rest in a warm room 
for a fortnight. On withdrawing the cork, the de- 
gree of putrefaction may be easily ascertained. 
When sufficiently impregnated, let each substance 
be taken out in succession, and enveloped in a sheet 
of paper folded like a letter; and suspended on a 
hook in another bell-glass, under which materials 
for producing chlorine are placed in a saucer or 
cup. These materials are muriatic acid poured 
over red oxide of lead, or pulverized oxide of 
manganese. In a short time the putrid odour will 
be dispersed, and the papers, which are intended 
to imitate letters supposed to be infected, will smell 
only of chlorine. Each letter should have three oi 
four parallel incisions made in it with a sharp 
knife, to admit the disinfecting gas more rea(fily. 
To protect gilders from the pernicious effects of 
mercury. 
They should have two doors in their workroom, 
opposite to each other, which they should keep 
open, that there may be a free circulation of air. 
I'hey stiould likewise have a piece of gold applied 
to the roof of the mouth, during the whole time 
of the operation. I'his plate will attract and in- 
tercept the mercury as they breathe, and when it 
grows white they must cast it into the fire, that 
the mercury may evaporate, and replace it when 
it is cool again. They should, indeed, have two 
pieces of gold, that one may oe put into the mouth 
whilst the other is purifying and cooling; by these 
means they will preserve themselves from the 
diseases and infirmities which mercury occasions. 
Riding and walking. 
For preserving health, there is no kind of exer- 
cise more proper than walking, as it gives the most 
general action to the muscles of the body; but, for 
valetudinarians, riding on horseback is preferable 
It is almost incredible how much the constitution 
may be strengthened by this exercise, whe.i conti- 
nued for a coi>siderable time; not so much in the 
fashionable way of a morning ride, but of making 



SJ62 



UNIVERSAL, RECeiPT BOOK. 



long journeys, in which there is the farther advan- 
tage of a perpetual change of air. Numbers of 
people, reduced to a state of great weakness, have, 
by this means, acquired a degree of vigour and 
health, which all tiie medical prescriptions in the 
world could not otherwise have procured. But, it 
is of importance, m travelling for health, that one 
should not employ his mind in deep reflections, 
but enjoy the company of an agreeable companion, 
and gratify his sight with the prospect of the va- 
rious objects around him. In this exercise, as 
well as in every other, we ought always to begin 
gently, and to finish gradually, never abruptly. 
Exercise after meals. 
Exercise is hurtful immediately after meals, 
particularly to those of nervous and irritable con- 
stitutions, who are thence liable to heart-burn, 
eructations, and vomiting. Indeed, the instinct of 
the inferior animals confirms the propriety of this 
rule; for they are all inclined to indulge them- 
selves in rest after food. At all events, fatiguing 
exercise should be delayed till digesfion is per- 
formed, which generally requires three or four 
hours after eating a full meal. 

Heading aloud. 
This is a species of exercise much recommended 
by the ancient pliysieians; and to this may be 
joined that of speaking. They are both of great 
advantage to tliose who have not sufficient leisure 
or opportunities for other kinds of exercise. To 
speak very loud, Liowever, or exercise the voice 
immediately after a meal, is hurtful to the lungs, 
as well as to the organs of digestion. Singing, as 
by the vibratory motion of the air it shakes the 
lungs and the bowels of the abdomen or belly, pro- 
motes, in a remarkable degree, the circulation of 
the blood. Hence, tliose sedentary artificers or 
mechanics, who, from habit, almost constantly 
sing at their work, unintentionally contribute much 
to the preservation of their health. 
Wind instruments. 
All these are more or less hurtful to the lungs, 
which the)' weaken, by introducing much air, and 
keeping that organ too long in a state of disten- 
tion. On this account, persons of weak lungs, who 
play much on the flute, hautboy, or French horn, 
are frequently afflicted with spitting of blood, 
cough, shortness of breath, and pulmonary con- 
sumption. Blowing tliose instruments likewise 
checks the circulation of the blood through the 
lungs, accumulates it towards the head, and dis- 
poses such persons to apoplexy. 
Friction. 
One of the most gentle and useful kinds of exer- 
cise, is friction of the body, either by the naked 
hand, a piece of flannel, or what is still better, a 
flesh brush. This was in great esteem among the 
ancients, and is so at present in the East Indies. 
The whole body may be sufjjected to this mild ope- 
ration, but chiefly the belly, the spine, or back- 
bone, and the arras and legs. Friction clears the 
skin, resolves stagnating humours, promotes per- 
spiration, strengtliens the fibres, and increases tlie 
warmth and energy of the whole body. In rheu- 
matism, gout, palsy, and green sickness, it is an 
excellent r'^medy. To the sedentary, the hypo- 
chondriac, and persons troubled with indigestion, 
who have not leisure to take sufficient exercise, 
the daily friction of the belly, in particular, cannot 
be too much recommended as a substitute for other 
means, in order to dissolve the thick humours 
which may be forming in the bowels, by stagna- 
tion, and to strengthen the vessels. But, in rub- 
bing the belly, the operation ought to be per- 
formcvA in a circular direction, as being most fa- 
vourable to the course of the intestines, and their 
natural action. It should be performed in the 



morning, on an empty stomacn, or, lather, in bed, 
before getting up, and Continued, at least, for some 
minutes at a tin\e. 

Getting -wet. 

This accident is at all times less frequent in 
towns than in the country, especially since the use 
of the umbrella has been introduced. 

When a person is wet lie ought never to stand 
but to continue in motion till he arrives at a ])lace 
where he may be suitably accommodated. Here 
he should strip off his wet clotlies, to be changed 
for such as are dry, and have those parts of his 
body which have been wetted, well rubbed with a 
dry cloth. The legs, shoulders, and arms, are 
generally the parts most exposed to wet: they 
should, therefore, be particularly attended to. It 
is almost incredible how many diseases may be 
prevented by adopting this course. Catarrhs, in- 
flammations, rL-umatisms, diarrhoeas, fevers, and 
consumptions, are the foremost among the train 
which frequently follow an accident of this kind. 
Precautions in removing from a hot to a cold situa- 
tion. 

It should be a determined rule to avoid all rapid 
transitions from one extreme to another, and never 
to remove from a room highly heated, to a fresh or 
cold air, while the body remains warm, or till the 
necessary change to a warmer dress has been pre- 
viously made. If, at any time, the body should be 
violently heated, during the warm weather, it is 
sure to suffer by going into vaults, cellars, ice- 
houses, by cold bathing, or by sitting on cold 
stones, or damp earth: many lingering and incura- 
ble maladies have been brought on by such impru- 
dence, nay, present death has, in some instances, 
been tlie consequence of such transgression. Ful- 
monarj' consumption, which makes annually such 
dreadful ravages among the young and middle 
aged, has been frequently induced by such appa- 
rently trifling causes. 

To keep the feet dry. 

The only method that has been found to succeed 
in keeping the feet dry is to wear, over the foot of 
the stocking, a sock made of oil silk. To keep it 
in its proper place, it will be necessary to wear 
over it a cotton or worsted sock. The general 
health being often disturbed by wet feet, the above 
directions ought to be generally attended to. 
7 preserve the eye-sight. 

Never sit for -my length of time in absolute 
gloom, or exposea to a blaze of light. The reason 
on which this rule is founded, proves the impro- 
priety of going hastily from one extreme to the 
other, whether of darkness or of light, and shows 
us that a southern aspect is improper for those 
whose sight is weak and tender. 

2. Avoid reading small print, and straining the 
eyes by looking at u.inute objects. 

3 Do not read in the dusk, nor, if the eyes be 
disordered, by candle light. 

4. Do not permit the eyes to dwell on glaring 
objects, more particularly on first waking in the 
morning; the sun should not of course be suffered 
to shine in the room at that time, and a moderate 
quantity of light, only, should be admitted. For 
the same reasons, the furniture, walls, and other 
objects of a bed-room, should not be altogether 
of a white or glaring colour: indeed, those whose 
eyes are weak, would find considerable advantage 
in hav-ng green for the furniture, and prevailing 
colour, of their bed-chambers. Nature confirms 
the propriety of this fact, for the light of the day 
comes on by slow degrees, and green is the uni- 
versal colour she presents to our eyes. 

5. Those individuals who are rather long-sight- 
ed, should accustom themselves to rtdA with less 
light, and with the book somewhat nearer to tL« 



MEDICINE. 



263 



eye than what they naturally like; while others, 
that are rather short-sighted, should use iheraselves 
to read will) the book as far off a.% possible. By 
These means, both will improve and strengthen 
iheir sight, while a contrary course increases its 
natural imperfections. 

Une of spectacles. 
From wliatever ci\use the decay of sight arises, 
an attentive consideration of the following rules 
will enable any one to judge for himself, when his 
eye-sight may be assisted or preserved by the use 
of proper glasses. « 

1. When we are obliged to remove small ob- 
jects to a considerable distance from the eye in 
order to see them distinctly. 

2. If we find it necessary to get more light than 
formerly, as, for instance, to place the candle be- 
tween the eye and the object. 

3. If, on looking at, and attentively considering 
a near object, it fatigues the eye and becomes con- 
fused, 01- "f it appeai'a to have a kind of dimness 
or mist before it. 

4. When small printed letters are seen to run 
into each other, and hence, by looking steadfastly 
on them, appear double or treble. 

5. If the eyes are so fatigued by a little exercise, 
that we are obliged to shut them from time to 
time, so as to relieve them by looking at different 
objects. 

When all these circumstances concur, or anj- of 
them separately takes place, it will be necessary 
to seek assistance from glasses, which will ease 
the eyes, and in some degree check their tendency 
to become worse: whereas, if they be not assisted 
in time, the weakness will be considerably increas- 
ed, and the eyes be impaired by the efforts they 
are compelled to exert. 

Cosmetics. 

To set off the complexion with all the advantage 
it can attain, nothing more is requisite than to 
wash the face with pure water; or, if any thing 
farther be occasionally necessary, it is oa\r the 
addition of a little soap. 

T/ie teeth. 

An object very subservient to health, and which 
merits due attention, is the preservation of the 
teeth; the care of which, considering their import- 
ance in preparing the food for digestion, is, in 
general, far trom being sufiiciently cultivated. 
Very few persons, comparatively, wash their mouth 
in the morning, which ought always to be done. 
Indeed, this ought to be practised at the conclusion 
of every mi-al, where either animal food or vegeta- 
bles aie eaten; for the former is apt to leave behind 
it a rancid acrim.my, and the latter an acidity, both 
of them hurtful to the teeth. Washing the mouth 
frequently with cold water is not only serviceable 
in keeping the tee'.h clean, but in strengthening 
the gums, the firm adhesion of which to the teeth 
is of great importance in preserving them sound 
and secure. 

Tooth powders. 

Many persons, while laudably attentive to pre- 
serve their teeth, do them hurt by too much offi- 
ciousness. They daily apply to them some denti- 
frice powder, which they rub so hard as not only 
to injure the enamel by excessive friction, but to 
hurt the gums even more than by the abuse of the 
pick tooth. I'he quality of some of the dentifrice 
powders, advertised in newspapers, is extremely 
suspicious; and tliere is reason to tiiink that they 
are not altogether free from a corrosive ingredient. 
One of the safest and best compositions for the 
purpose is a mixture of two parts of scutllefish 
bone, and one of the Peruvian bark, both finely 
pcwdered, which is calculated not only to clean the 



teeth without nurting them, but to preserve the 

firmness of the gums. 

Besides tlie advantage of sound teeth, for their 
use in mastication, a proper attention to their 
treatment conduces not a little to the sweetnsss ot 
the breath. This is, indeed, often affected by 
other causes, existing in the lungs, the stomach, 
and sometimes even in the bowels; but a rotten 
state of the teeth, both from the putrid smell emit- 
ted by carious bones, and the impurities lodged in 
their cavities, never fails of aggravating an unpleas- 
ant breath wherever there is a tendency of that 
kind. 

Loose teeth. 

When the teeth are loosened by extern. 1 vio- 
lence, b)' falls and blows, or by the improper use 
of instruments in pulling diseased teeth in the 
neighbourhood of sound ones, they may again be 
made tolerably fast by pressing them as firmly as 
possible into their sockets, and preserving them 
so with ligatures of cat-gut, Indian weed, or waxed 
silk, and keeping the patient upon spoon meat till 
they are firm. When loose teeth are owing to 
tartar, nothing will fasten them till the cause be 
removed; and this ought to be done early, other- 
wise it will have no effect. Frequently the teeth 
become loose from a sponginess of the gums, 
often, but improperly, attributed to scurvy. The 
best remedy is scarifying the gums deeply, and 
allowing them to bleed freely; this should be re- 
peated till they are fully fastened. Mild astrin- 
gents, as tincture of bark, are here attended with 
good effects, though those of a strong nature will 
certainly do harm. The mouth should be fre- 
quently washed with cold water strongly impreg- 
nated with these, and the patient should not use 
the teeth which have been loose till they become 
firm again. The loosening of the teeth in old age 
cannot be remedied, as it is owing to a wasting of 
their sockets, from which the teeth lose their sup- 
port. 

Foul teeth. 

The teeth sometimes uecome yellow or black 
without any adventitious matter being observed on 
them; at other times they become foul, and give a 
taint to the breath, in consequence of the natural 
mucus of the mouth, or part of the food remain- 
ing too long about them. The most frequent 
cause of f'>ul teeth is the substance called tartar, 
which seems to be a deposition from the saliva, 
and with which the teeth are often almost entirely 
encrusted. When this substance is allowed to re- 
main, it insinuates itself between the gums and 
the teeth, and then gets down upon the jaw in such 
a manner as to loosen the teeth. This, indeed, is 
by far the most common cause of loose teeth; and 
when they have been long covered with this or 
with any other matter, it is seldom they can he 
cleaned without the assistance of instruments. But 
when once they are cleaned, they may generally 
be kept so, by rubbing them with a thin piece of 
soft wood made into a kind of brush, and dipped 
into distilled vinegar; after which the mouth is to 
be washed with comrioa water. 

Cleaning tlie teeth. 

When the teeth are to be cleaned by instruments, 
the operator ought, witti a linen cloth or with a 
glove, to press against the points of the teeth, so 
as to keep them firm in their sockets, with the 
fingers of the one hand, while he cleans them with 
the necessary instruments held in the other; taking 
care not to scrape them si hard as to loosen them, 
or to rub oft" ihe enamel. This bemg done, the 
teeth should be rubbed over with a small brush, or 
a piece of sponge dipped in a mixture uf cream 
of tartar and Peruvian bark. The same applica- 



?64 

tioA roay be made to the teeth for a few days, when 
afterwards they may be kept clean as already di- 
rected. 

The teeth are sometimes covered over with a 
thin dark coloured scurf, which has by some been 
mistaken for a wasting of the enamel, but which 
is only an extraneous matter covering it. My per- 
severance this may be cleaned off as completely 
as where the teeth are covered with tartar; but it 
: s apt, after some time, to appear again. When this 
■s observedj the same operation must be repeated. 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



For the purpose of applying powders or waslie* 
to the teeth, a brush or a sponge is commonly em- 
ployed; the latter is supposed preferable, as being 
in less danger of wearing down the enamel, or ot 
separating the teeth. 

Meas^mng glasses. 
In order to measure quantities of fluids, glasses, 
graduated on their sides (according to the followina 
figures), will be found useful in all families and 
private laboratories; — 



R 


3 


3 


6^. 


7 




_ 


66 


6 




H 


48 


6 




- 


40 


4r 


— 


- 


32 


3 


— 


- 


24 


2 


— 


- 


16 


± 


^ 


= 


1 





3 




I:^^ 



M 



No. 1. represents a glass, calculated to measure 
any quantity from two drachms to eiglit ounces. 

No. 2. From one drachm to two ounces. 

No. 3. From half a drachm to one ounce. — And 

No. 4. Any quantity front five minims (or drops) 
to one drachm. 

Weights and measures. 

By the following tables it will be seen that in the 
Measure of fluids, 
1 gallon measure contains 8 pints, 

1 pint 16 ounces, 

1 ounce 8 drachms, 

1 drachm 60 minims. 

Weight of dry substances. 
1 pound. contains 12 ounces, 

1 ounce . S drachms, 

I drachm 60 grains, 

1 scruple 20 grs. or 

1-3 of a drachm. 

It is customaiy to distinguish quantities of fluids 



from dry substances, byprefixing the letter f (fluidj 
when an ounce or drachm is mentioned in medical 
works, but in the foregoingprescriptions or formulae, 
this was considered to be uimecessary, as the slight- 
est acquaintance with the substances to be used, will 
point out what is implied. 

Scale of medicinal doses. 

The following table of the gradations' of doses 
of medicines for different ages, will in general be 
found pretty correct, and ought never to be deviated 
from, except by professional advice. 

It at the age of manhood the dose be one drachm, 
the proportions will be at 

From 14 tu 21 years, 2 scruples; 7 to 14 years, 
half a drachm; 4 to 7 years, 1 scruple; 4 years, 
15 grains; 3 years, half a scruple; 2years, 8 grains; 
1 year, 5 grains; 6 months, 3 grains; 3 months, 2 
grains; 1 month, 1 grain, 



A aKX^SSXCi &■ 



To cure •aourtds in cattle. 
When horses, cattle, or any of our domestic 
animals are wounded, the tr3atment may be verj' 
simple, and much the same as in the human race. 
It is extremely improper to follow a practice that 
is common in many parts of the country among 
farriei;!, cow doctors, and cven shepherds — that of 
applying to the wound, or putting into the sore 
part. Common salt, powder of blue vitriol, or tar, 
or cloths dipped in sjjirits, as brandy, rum, kc. 
or tur[)entine, or any ot>er stimulant articles; for 
all such vei*y much increase the pain, and by irri- 
tating the sore, may increase the inflammation 
even to the length of inducing mortification. — 
Though the treatment may be varied according to 



circumstances, yet, in most cases, it may be suffi- 
cient to take notice of the following particulars: — 
It will be proper to wash away any foulness or dirt 
about the part, and to examine particularly its con- 
dition. 

To stop the bleeding. 
Should any large blood-vessel be cut, and dis- 
charging copiously, it will be right to stop it, by 
some lint or sponge, with moderate compression, 
or bandaging, at the same time, and not taking it 
off for two or three days. Should the pressure 
fail of effect, caustic applications, such as the lu- 
nar caustic, or even the actual cautery, the point 
of a thick wire, sufficiently heated, may be tried;^ 
or, if a surgeon be at hand, the vessel may be 



UA.RUIEUY. 



265 



taken up by the crooked needle, with waxed thread. 
and then tied. 

Adhesive plaster and sewing. 

VVliere there is no danger of excessive bleeding, 
and a mere division of the parts, or a deep gash 
or cut, it will be right to adjust tlie parts, and keep 
them together i)y a strip of any common adhesive 
plaster; or, when this will not do by itself, the lips 
of the wound, especiallj' if it be a clean cut, may 
be closed by one or more stitches, with a mode- 
rately coarse needle and thread, which in each 
stitch may be tied, and the ends left of a proper 
length, so that they can be afterwards removed 
when the parts adhere. It is advised to tie the 
threads, because sometimes the wounded part 
swells so much that it is difficult to get them cut 
and drawn out, without giving pain and doing some 
mischief. 

Bandages. 

If the part will allow a toiler or bandage to be 
used, to keep tlie lips of it together, this may like- 
wise be employed; for by supporting the sides of 
the wound, it would lessen any pain which the 
stitches occasion. With this treatment the wound 
heals often in a short time, or in a few days, rare- 
ly exceeding five or six, and sooner in the young 
and healthy, than in the old and relaxed, and soon- 
er iu the quiet and motionless, than in the restless 
and active. 

Should the wound be large, and inflammation, 
with the discharge of matter, likely to take place, 
it may still be proper, by gentle means, to bring 
the divided parts near to each other, and to retain 
Ihem in their natural situation by means of a ban- 
dage. This should not be made too tight, hut 
mei-ely to support the part. In this way, and by 
avoiding stimulant applications, the wound will 
heal more readily than otlierwise, and the chance 
of any blemisli following will be diminished. 
Washes of spirits, brandy, and the like. Friar's 
balsam, spirit of wine aim campiior, turpentine, 
or any other such irritating appl'cations, are high- 
ly improper, and sometimes make a fresh clean 
wound, (that would readily heal almost of itself,) 
mflame and perhaps mortity, or become a bad sore. 
Sores and bruises. 

Over the whole sore, or where the part is bruis- 
ed, or where there is a tendency to suppuration, a 
poultice siiouid be applied and kept on by suitable 
bandages. Tlie ])oultice may be made of any kind 
of meal, fine bran, bruised Unseed, or of mashed 
turnips, carrots, &c. The following has been 
found useful as a common poultice. "Fine bran, 
1 quart; pour on it a sufficient quantity of boiling 
water to make a thin paste; to this add of linseed 
powder enough to give it a proper consistence." 
The poultice may be kept on for a week or ten 
days, or even longer, if necessary, changing it 
once or twice a day; and cleaning the wound, when 
the poultice is removed, by washing it by means 
of a soft rag or linen cloth, with water not more 
than blood warm, (some sponges are too rough for 
this purpose); or, where the wound is deep, the 
water may be injected into it by a syringe, in or- 
der to clean it from the bottom. 
Ointment. 

In the course of a few days, when the wound, by 
©are and proper management with the poultices, 
begins to put on a healthy appearance, and seems 
to be clean and of a reddish colour, not black or 
bloody, then there may be applied an ointment 
made of tallow, linseed oil, be'-s' wax, and hogs' 
iard, in sucli yiroportion as to make it of a consis- 
tence somewhat firmer than butter. The ointment 
should be spread on some soft clean tow, and wiien 
applied to the sore, it ought never to be tied hard 
upon it, (which is done too frequently and very 



improperly, ) but only fixed by a bandage of a pro- 
per length and breadth, (for a" mere cord is often 
improper,) so close and securely as to keej) it 
from slipping off. This application may be chang- 
ed once a day; or when nearly well, and discharg- 
ing but little, once in two days. 

Green ointment for -uounds. 

Put into a well glazed earthen vessel, 2 ounces 
of bees' v ax; melt it over a clear fire, and add 2 
ounces of rosin; when that is melted, put in half 
a pound of hogs' lard; to this put 4 ounces of tur- 
pentine; keep stirring all the time with a clean 
stick or wooden spatula. When all is well mixed, 
stir in I ounce of fine'v powdered verdigris. Be 
careful it does not boil over; strain it through a 
coarse cloth, and preserve it in a gallipot. This 
ointment is very good for old and recent wounds, 
whether in flesh or hoof; also galled backs, ci-ack 
ed heels, mallenders, sallenders, bites, brokei 
knees, &c. 

Treatment, according to appearance of the part. 

When the wounded part begins to discharge 
wliitish, thick matter, and is observed to fill up 
the general treatment and dressings to the sore 
now mentioned, should be continued: and in the 
course of the cure, the animal, when free of fever, 
may be allowed better provision, and may take 
gentle exercise. If the animal be feeble, fiom the 
loss of blood originally, or from the long continu- 
ance of a feverish state, produced by the inflam- 
mation attending tlie wound, or from weakness 
arising froai confinement, or connected with its 
constitution naturally; and if the wound appear to 
Lv, in a stationary state, very pale and flabby on its 
edges, with a thin discharge, then better food may 
be given to it; and if s^ill no change should be ob- 
served, along with the better food, the wound may 
be treated somewhat differently from what has 
been already advised. The omtment may be made 
more stimulant, by adding to it some resin and less 
bees' wax, or what would be more stimulant still, 
some common turpentine; for it is only in very rare 
cases that oil of turpentine can be requisite. The 
effects of an altei-ation in the mode of treatment 
should be particularly remarked, and stimulants 
should be laid aside, continued or increased, ac- 
cording as may be judged proper. Before cliang- 
ing the dressings applied to the wound, or befoi-e 
rendering them more stimulant and active by using 
heating applications, the effect of closer bandaging 
may be tried; for sometimes, by keeping the parts 
a little more firmly together, the cure is promoted. 
Food and regimen. 

In case of severe wtmnds, attention should be 
paid to the condition ol the animal in other res- 
pects. There being always when such happen a 
leii-dency to violent inflammation and fever, that 
may end fatally, sjeans should be employed to 
moderate both. The apartment should be cool and 
airy, and so quiet that the animal should not be 
disturbed; the drink should not be warm but rathei 
cold, and given freely^ though not in too large 
quantities at a time; the food should be sparingly 
given, and of a poorer quality than usual, and 
should be rather succulent and laxative, than dry 
or apt to produce costiveness; bleeding may be 
employed either generally from a vein, or in some 
cases, when it can be done, by cupping from the 
hurt part, as in the case of a bi'uise (though this 
last will Seldom be requisite or found convenient), 
and it may be done more than once or twice, as 
i"ay seem proper; laxative medicines also ought 
to oe gvven and repealed, as there may be occasion. 
Abscess. 

These are swellings containing matter, that make 
their appearance in different parts of the body 
The r; medies are, first, to bleed, then to wash 



266 



UNIVERSAL, RECEIPT BOOK. 



the swollen part with a quart of vinegar, in which 
are dissolved iwo ounces of sal aramoniac, and 
iialf an ounce of sugar of lead. If tlie swelling 
does not abate in two or three days, apply the sup- 
purating poultice. When the tumour becomes 
soft and points, open it with a lancet, and let out 
the matter. Then dress it with basilicon ointment. 
Anbi'.ry or itiart. 
Tie a strong silk, or two or three hurse-hairs, 
round the neck, of the wart, tightening it gradual- 
ly till it falls away. Then dip a jjiece of tow in 
alum-water and bind it on the spot for a whole day. 
Heal the sore with the green ointment. 
Tlie star gers. 
Bleed the animal copiously, (the disease is a true 
apoplexy), 2^ quarts at once; then give him half a 
pint of linseed oil, the same of castor oil, 4l) grains 
of calomel, 60 do. of jalaj), and two ounces of 
tincture of aloes. Give him twice a day warm 
bran mashes. 

For loss of appetite. 
Take a quart of blood from the neck, and give 
hira a purging ball made as follows: Aloes, 1 oz. 
■alap, I drachm, rhubarb, 1 do. made into a ball 
with castor oil and half a drachm of ginger. 
Injlamed bladder. 
Make 'he animal drink largely of flaxseed tea, 
barley or rice water, or any mucilaginous liquid, 
and inject a portion of the same frequently. Bleed- 
ing, and a dose of castor oil are never to be 
omitted. After the oil has operated, give the fol- 
lowing ball every sixth hoar: Powdered nitre, half 
an ounce, camphor, 1 drachm, liquorice powder, 
3 drs. honey sufficient to form tlie ball. Should 
these means not relieve the animal, omit the ball, 
and give 1 drachm of opium twice a day. 
Blood spavin. 
Clip off the hair from the swelling, and rub all 
round outside of the swelling witli a piece of hard 
brown soap, then apply to the swelling a blister 
made of the following 

Blistering ointment. 
Hogs' lard, half an ounce, bees' wax, 3 drachms, 
sublimate, in fine powder, half a drachm, Spanish 
flies, 2 drachms. Mix them all well, and spread 
It on white leatlier, and apply it to the spavin. 
Bone sjjavin. 
This may be treated like the former; it is, how- 
ever, generally incurable. The operation of firing 
(which siiould be done by a professed farrier), and 
turning to grass, afford the only reasonable chances 
of relief, 

Eots. 
Three kinds of worms infest the bowels of hor- 
ses, called by the English farriers bots, truncheons, 
aiui maw-worms. Thi bot infests the great gut 
near the anus; it is a small worm with a large 
head, and may be frequently observed in the dung. 
The truncheon is short and thick, wilh a black- 
ish head, and is found in the maw, where, if suf- 
fered to remain, it sometimes pierces through, and 
thus is many a fine horse destroyed. 

The maw-worm is of a pale ivJ colour, i-esem- 
hling an earth worm, from two to three inches long, 
occupying, also, the maw. 

Symptoms of -worms in horses. 
Stamping foi(|;ibly on the ground wilh either of 
Ills fore-feetjg?Lnd frequently striking at his belly 
with his hind ones. Belly projecting and hard — 
looking frequently behind iiim, and groaning as if 
iin great pain. 

Remedies for ivorm^. 
Keep the horse from all kinds of food for one 
day; at night, give him a small quantity of warm 
bran mash, made as usual, and directly after, a ball 
made of 1 scruple of calomel, 1 do. of turpeth 
mineral, »ud as much crumb of bread and honey 



as will form the mass. Next evening g've liim » 
pint of castor, and half a pint of linseed oil. The 
animal is then to be fed as usual for two or three 
days, and the same plan again to be employed. 
Inflammation of the bowels. 
This not very common, but when it does occur 
dangerous, disorder is of two kinds. The first or 
peritoneal inflammation begins with an appearance 
of dulness and uneasiness in the animal; appetite 
diminished or totally gone; constant pawi..g with 
the fore feet, frequently trying to kick the belly;^ 
he lies dcwn, rises suddenly, looks round to his 
flanks — countenance strongly expressive of pain; 
urine small, high coloured, and voided with great 
pain; pulse quick and small; legs and ears cold;^ 
profuse sweats; mortification and death. 

The second species of the disorder is when tbt 
inflammation attacks the internal coat of the intes- 
tines, and is generally accompanied by a violent 
purging and some fever — the symptoms of the lat- 
ter, however, are much less violent, nor does the 
animal appear to be in so much pain. 
Treatment. 
In the first or peritoneal inflammation, the only 
der'endence is on early and large bleedings. In 
addition to this rub the whole belly well with the 
mustard embrocation, clothe the animal warmly 
(with fresh sheep skins if fjossible), insert several 
rowels abouc the chest and belly, putting into them 
the blistering ointment. As the horse is. generally 
costive give him a pint of castor oil, and inject 
clysters of warm flaxseed tea, give hira warm water 
or thin gruel or flaxseed tea to drink, rub his legs 
with the Iiands well, and see that he has plenty of 
clean fresh litter. If in six hours the disease is 
not relieved, bleed him again, and should the cos- 
tiveness continue repeat the oil and clysters. - If, 
after giving all these remedies a faithful and con- 
tinned trial, the pain should continue, recourse 
may be had to the anolyne clyster. 

In the second species of this disorder, bleeding 
need not be resorted to unless the febrile symptoms 
run high. Clothe the horse warmly, use the muS' 
tard embrocation freely, and omit the oil. Give 
him frequently by means of a bottle (if he will not 
drink it) quantities of very thin gruel or flaxseed 
tea. If in spite of this the disease continues, use 
the anodyne clyster; if that fail the astringent 
draught. ' The pain occasioned by physicking, is 
to be relieved by large clysters of thin gruel or 
flaxseed, which produce copious evacuations and 
relief. 

Broken -wind. 
This is an incurable disease; all that can be done 
is to relieve the animal for a time so as to enable 
him to perform a day's work. To do this make 
the following 

Paste ball for broken-ivinded horses. 
Assafoetida two ounces, elecampane two ounces, 
flowers of colt's-foot two ounces, powdered squills 
two drachms, linseed powder one ounce, honey as 
much as will make the mass. Divide it in four 
balls and give one morning and evening. Much 
benefit may result from bleeding in tins disorder 
at an early period of the complaint. His food 
should be carrots or turnips. The hay, oats, or 
whatever is given, should be in small quantities at 
a time, and always sprinkled with clean, soft 
water. 

Broken knees. 
Apply a poultice of breaii and milk or bread and 
warm water to reduce the inflammation, then dress 
the wound with basilicon. 

Burns or scalds. 
' If slight, apply cold lead water; if extensive, a 
liniment made of equal parts of linseed oil aod 
lime water. If there is much fever bleed. 



FARRIERY. 



2f.1 



Canker. 

Cut away freely all the diseased parts, and if 
necessary draw tlie frog, then ai)ply the 
Liniment for canker. 

Warm 6 ounces of tar, mix with it drop by drop 
1 oz. by measure of oil of vitriol, then add 1 oz. 
of oi'. of turpentine. Bind this firmly on the part, 
destroying all the diseased protuberances with lu- 
nar caustic. When the wound looks healthy, dress 
it with the green ointment. 

Capped hocks. 

If the swelling proceed from a bruise or a blow, 
\>atlie it three or four times a day with salt and 
vinegar made warm. If it proceed from a natural 
cause, apply the suppurating poultice, and when 
matter is formed let it out, then use the green 
ointment. 

Cold. 

Take a quart of blood from the neck, then give 
warm mashes with a scruple of nitre in them. 
Purge with castor and linseed oil, and keep the 
stable warm. 

Convidsions. 

Symptoms. — The horse raises his head higher 
fnan usual and pricks up his ears — neck stiff and 
immovable, skin tight. He stands in a straddling 
posture, pants and breathes with difficulty. 

Cure Bleed him if his strength will permit it, 

and liis pulse is high, eye red, 8ic. otherwise not. 
If you observe bots or any other kind of worms, 
pursue the treatment recommended for them. 
Cough. 

Take a quart of blood from the neck, and give 
the following 

Ball for cough. 

Half an ounce of Venice soap, half an ounce of 
nitre, ten grains of tartar emetic, and ten grains 
of opium. Make these into a ball with honey, and 
give one every other night. Keep the horse warm 
and remedy cosliveness by castor oil. 
Corns. 

Let the furrier cut them out with a sharp knife. 
Should they show a disposition to grow again, touch 
them with oil of vitriol or caustic and (h-ess them 
with green ointment. Be careful in shoeing not 
to let the shoe press on the corn. 
Curb. 

Cauterize the curb in a line down its middle and 
then apply the blistering ointment. 
Cracked heels. 

Poultice tlie parts with carrots or turnips boiled 
softthree or four times, then anoint them with yel- 
low basilicon mixed with a little green ointment. 
The gripes. 

As soon as the disease is observed, give the 
draught below, and a clyster composed of 8 oz. 
common salt in six quarts of water gruel or warm 
water. If there is great pain with quick pulse, 
take away three quarts of blood. The belly should 
be well ruoijed with the mustard or other stimu- 
lating embrocation. If no relief is obtained in 
two hours repeat the draught and embrocation, 
and siiould even this fail give him a pint of castor 
oil with one anj a half ounces of laudanum. If 
castor oil cannot be had a pint and a quarter of 
linseed oil may be used. 

Draught for gripes. 

Balsam copaiva 1 oz. oil of juniper I drachm, 
spirit of nitr:)us ether half an ounce, mint water 
1 pint. Mix for one dose. 

Diabetes. 

This disor'l t, which consists in an involuntary 
discharge of tiie urine, wliich is pale and tliin, fre- 
quently proves fatal. To cure it, take a quart of 
blood from the neck and give the following 
Ball for diabetes. 

Peruvian bark four drachms, ginger one draohm, 



it costive after it, give a pint of castor oil. Repe& 
if necessary. 

Eyes. 

Inflammation of the eyes is often cnrcd by sca- 
rifying with a lancet tlie inside of the upper anr 
lower brow, and the distended vessels of the eye 
itself. It is to be remembered that in treating ar 
inflammation of this important organ, we should 
proceed precisely as if treating a human being 
labouring under the same complaint, and keep th« 
animal on short allowance, prevent cosliveness, 
keep the stable cool and dark. 

Soreness or weakness of the eyes is cured by 
bleeding from the neck and using the following 
E,ye-Tvitei\ 

To one quart of water put three dracluns of the 
sugar of lead and two drachms of white vitriol. 
When dissolved let it settle and pour off the clear 
liquor for use. A drop may be put into each eye 
three times a day with a feather. 
Film or cataract. 

There is no remedy for this but an experienced 
farrier. I'here are a variety of washes, &c. re- 
commended by various authors, but they are use- 
less. 

Farcy. 

This disease commences in small hard knots, 
which soon become soft and ulcerous, generally 
situated on the veins and extending upwards. It 
is a contayious disorder, and not unfrequently ends 
in the glanders. 

Cure for farcy. 

Open the ulcers and toucli the inside of the 
edges slightly with powdered verdigrease, by 
means of a camel's liair "pencil. At the same time 
give the following ball: White arsenic eight 
grains, and corrosive sublimate six grains, pow- 
dered and mixed with flour or bread or any otlier 
vehicle that will form a ball with molasses. Iveep 
the animal warm, mix chopped carrots with his 
mashes. Intermit one day and give a similar ball 
— if it purge add 10 grains of opium to it. Attend 
constantly to the ulcers; wash them with warm 
soap-suds, and keep the animal by himself — if the 
disease gains the nostrils and head, and becomes 
glanders, shoot him at once. There is no I'emedy. 
Grease. 

Wash the part well with warm soap-suds twice 
a day, and if the swelling is great apply a poultice 
to it, when the sores are, cleansed touch then* with 
a rag or feather dipped in the vulnerary water. 
Foundered feet. 

This is known by the contraction of the hoof, 
which will appear considerably smaller than the 
sound one. Tlie horse just touches the ground 
with the toe of the foundered foot on account of 
pain, and stands in such a totleriiig way that you 
may shove him over with your hand. 

Ctire. — Take off the slioe, bleed freely from the 
thigh vein, and purge two or three times. Keep 
the hair close trimmed and the parts clean, 
Hoof-boimd. 

Cut down several lines from the coronet down 
to the toe all round the hoof and fill the cuts with 
tallow and soap mixed. Take off the shoes and 
(if you can spare him) turn tiie animal into a wet 
meadow, where his feet will be kept moist. Never 
remove the sole nor burn the lines down, as this 
increases the evil. 

Lampas. 

This consists in a swelling of the Brst bar of the 
upper palate. It is cured by rubbing the swelling 
two or three times a day with half an ounce of 
alum and the same quantity of double refined sugar 
mixed with a little honey. 

Laxity. 
Never attempt to stop the discfc«rge too suddeu- 



268 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



y or too soon; this common but erroneous practice 
has Icillecl many tine horses. To begin the cur", 
give liiui the following 

JMlld purging ball. 

Rhubarb in ])0W(ler I ounce, magnesia half an 
ounce, calomel 1 scruple, oil of aniseed 1 drachm, 
make up a ball with honey and Tiqiiorice powder. 
Next day give the horse I fluid ounce of liquid 
laudanum, with 20 grains of lartar emetic in a pint 
vjf water. On the third day repeat the purge, then 
the dreucli, until the animal is well. 
lajiammation of the lungs. 

Bleed the animal copiously as soon as the com- 
plaint is perceived, and ]epeatitin six hours if the 
fever, quickness of brestliing, &c. do not abate. 
Blister his rdes, rovvei the chest, h id give the 
following ball, which is to be taken morning and 
evening until the staling is considerabl)' increased, 
one a day will then be sufficient. Grass or bran 
mashes should be the food. 

The lull. — Powdered nitre 6 drachms, camphor 
1 drachm, as much syrup and linseed meal as will 
form the ball. 

MLallenders. 

Wash the cracks well with warm soap-suds and 
a sponge, and then with tbe vulnerary water twice 
every day, wipe the parts dry and apply the greeu 
ointment. 

Mange. 

Wash with soap-suds and vulnerary water, and 
purge with castor oil. Feed the horse well and 
work him moderately. 

Molten grease. 

Bleed and purge moderately, feed regularly on 
a diminished allowance. 

Poll evil. 

Bring the swelling to a head as any other tumour 
by. the suppurating poultice, which is made as 
follows: 

Suppurating poultice. 

Take four handsful of bran and three middling 
sized turnips, boil them till soft, beat them well 
togetlier; tben boil them again in milk to a thick 
poultice, adding to it 2 ounces of linseed aiil half 
a pound of hog's lard. 

Quittor. 

Make an opening for the matter to descend 
from all the neighbouring sinuses. Keep the parts 
well cleaned wiih warm soap-suds, then inject the 
vulnerary water into the sinuses. If there is a 
core touch it with caustic, when this is discharged 
dress with the green ointment. 
Jting bone. 

If recent blist";r the part, if an old aftection re- 
course must be had to tiring. 

Sand-crack. 

Remove :he shoe and ascertain carefully the ex- 
tent of tlie injury; if the crack is superficial, fill 
it with the composition below, and keep the foot 
cool and moist. If the crack has extended to the 
sensible parts, and you can see any fungous flesh, 
with a suiail (hawing knife remove the edges of 
the crack id horn that press upon it. Touch the 
fungus with caustic, dip a roll of tow or linen in 
tar and bind it firmly over it. 'The whole foot is 
to be kept in a bran poultice for a few days or 
until the lameness is removed. A shoe may then 
be put on so as not to press on the diseased part. 
The pliidget of tow may now be removed, tbe crack 
filled witb the composition and the animal turned 
into some soft meadow. 

Composition for sand-crack. 

Beeswax four ounces, yeHow resin two ounces, 
common turpentine one ounce, tallow or suet half 
an ounce. To be melted together. 
Sit-fasts 

Aj-e horny substances on the back under the sad- 



dle. Take hold of them with a pair rf pincfci-s 
and cut them out radically: leave no pait behind 
or they will grow again. Dress the wound with- 
t!ie green ointment. 

Sallenders 

Require the same treatment as mallenders, which 
see. 

Strains. 

In whatever part of tlie body this accident oc- 
curs, the treatment should be perfect rest, mode- 
rate bleeding and purging till the inflammation is 
reduced, when any stimulating embrocation may 
be used. 

Strangury. 

Take away a quart of blood and tiu'ow up a 
laxative clyster; then give one ounce of salt-petre 
and one fluid ounce of sweet spirits of nitre in a 
pint of water. 

Strangles. 

This is known by a swelling between the jaw- 
bone and the root of the tongue. If a large tu- 
mour appear under the jaw apply the suppurating 
poultice. Wiien it is ripe open it, squeeze out tbe 
matter and reapply a warm poultice. In a few 
days it will run off". Give warm bran mashes and 
gentle exercise. 

Thriish. 

Remove the shoe and pare off* all the ragged 
parts so as to expose the diseased narts; alter 
cleaning the frog nicely apply a soluaon of blue 
vitriol and shortly after pour some melted tar 
ointment into tbe cleft of the frog and cover its 
whole surface with tow soaked in tbe same, and 
on tbe tow a flat piece of wood about the width of 
the frog, one of its ends jiassing under the toe of 
the shoe, the other extending to the l)ack part of 
the frog and bound down by cross [lirces of wood, 
the ends of which are placed under the slioe. Re- 
peat the dressing every day. 
^^ives. 

This is a disease most common to yoiuig horses, 
and consists in a long swelling of the parotid gland, 
beginning at the roots of the ears and descending 
downwards. If it is painful and inflamed, apply 
*he poultice — if it suppurates open the lump, let 
out the matter and dress with the green ointment. 
If it is hard and indolent apply strong mercurial 
ointment to disperse it and bleed moderately. 
Wind galls. 

These swellings appear on each side of the back 
sinew, above the fetlock. It is dangerous to punc- 
ture them as is sometimes done, as it may produce 
an incurable lameness. Tight bandages and moist- 
ening the parts frequently with a strong solution 
of sal ammoniac in vinegar may do some good. 
Wounds. 

All the rules laid down in this book for the 
treatment of wounds in the human subject, apply 
strictly to horses. As in simple cuts, however, 
sticking ydaster cannot be used, the edges of the 
wound should be neatlj' siitched together. Much 
can be done also by tbe judicious application of 
bandages. Farriers, generally, are in ibe habit of 
pursuing such absurd, cruel, and fatal practices in 
these cases, either by cutting oft' a part that appears 
to be partly torn from its connection, or by using 
stimulating a[)plicatious, that it becomes necessary 
to repeat again, that all the rules laid down for the 
treatment of wounds in this work as applicable to 
man are equally so to tbe noble animal of which 
we are speaking. Read over these rules. Substi- 
tute the word " horse" for " patient '' and you will 
be at no loss how to proceed. 

Bleeding in general. 

Bleeding is often tbe most useful and efficacious 
means of curing diseases in horses, Ike. In in- 
flammatory alfections, it is generally the first reme- 



FARRIERY. 



269 



<!)' resorted to, and its immediate salutary effects 
are often surprising. 

When it is iiecessary to lessen the whole quan- 
tity of bood in the system, open the jugular or 
neck vein. If the inflammation is locj^T, bleed 
■where it can be conveniently done, either from tl»e 
jiai-l affected, or in its vicinity, as by opening the 
l)lHte vein, superficial vein of the thigh, or tempo- 
ral arteries. 

In fevers of all kinds, and M'lien inflammation 
attacks any important organ, as tiie brain, eye.';, 
lungs, stomach, intestines, liver, kidiieys, bladder, 
Jsc. bleeding is of the greatest use. It diminishes 
the quantity of blood in the body; and by this 
means prevents the bad consequences of inflamma- 
tion. The quantity of blood to be taken varies ac- 
cording to the age, size, condition, and constilu- | 
iion of the hor.se, and urgency of tlie s3'mi)toins. 

From a large strong horse, four or si.x quarts | 
will generally be requisite, and this may be re- I 
peaced in smaller quantities if symptoms demand 
it. The blood, in these diseases, must flow from 
a large orifice mad*; in the vein. A horse should i 
never be suffered to hleed upon the ground, but | 
into a measure in order that the proper quantity ! 
may be taken. Young horses, also, while shedding 
their teeth, have sometimes much constitutional i 
irritation, which bleeding relieves. But in these j 
iiffections it is very rarely necessary to bleed to the ' 
same extent as in fevers, fee. ; two or three quarts 
generally sufiice to be taken away. 
Fulness of blood. 

Moderate bleeding, as from two to three or four 
quarts, is also used to remove fulness of habit, or 
plethora, attended with slight inflammatory symp- 
toms. In this case the eyes appear heavy, dull, 
red or inflamed, frequently closed as if asleep; the 
pulse small, and oppressed; the heat of the body 
somewhat increased; the legs swell; the hair also 
rubs oft". Horses that are removed from grass to a 
Ai arm stable, and full fee" on hay and corn, and not 
suflicientl}' exercised, are very subject to one 'or 
more of these symptoms. Regulating the quanti- 
ty of food given to him, proper exercise, and oc- 
casional laxatives, as the following powder, will 
be commonly found suflicient after the first bleed- 
ing, and operation of an aloetic purge. In slight 
affections of this kind, a brisk purge will often 
alone be sufficient. 

Laxative and diaphoretic powder. 

Take of crocus of antimony, finely levigated, 
nitre, cream of tartar, and flower of sulphur, of 
each, 4 oz. 

Powder and mix them well together for use. 

One table-spoonful of this mixture maybe given 
overy night and morning, in as much scalded bran, 
or a feed of corn moistened with water, that the 
powders may adhere thereto. 

This powder will be found excellent for such 
horses as are kept on dry meat, whether they be 
in the stable, or travel on the road; also for stal- 
lions in the spring of the year, as. they not only 
"keep the body cool and open, but cause him to cast 
his coat, and make his skin appear as bright as 
silk. 

Pur^Tiff. 

In obstinate grease an'* swellings of the legs, ac- 
companied with lameness of the joints, dry coughs, 
worms, diseases of the skin, farcy, apoplexy or 
staggers, affections of the liver, and several other 
diseases treated of in this book, mercurial purges 
are of the greatest service. They purge; destroy 
worms; generally increase the flow of urine; ope- 
rate upon the skin, liver, and other viscera in a pe- 
culiar manner; cause a healthful action in these 
parts; and remove many chronic complaints inci- 
dent to the horse. Great caution is uecessaiy dur- 



ing their operation, lest the horse take cold. The 
water given him must be \sarm, and when exer- 
cised he shoulci be ])roperly clothed. 

Horses that are kept on dry meat, and are full 
fed, with little or no exercise, require regular 
purging every six months, with t.vo or three doses 
each time, allowing proper intervals between each; 
and those horses which run in stage-coaches, 
chaises (whose labour is often more than their na- 
tural strength is able to bear), and such who.'e legs 
ai-e inclined to swell — all lequire purgative medi- 
cines; the use of which would be a means of pre- 
venting uiany of the diseases that attack this useful 
animal. 

To prepcirt horses for physic. 

After violent exercise, hor'ses are liable to lose 
their appetite, and to have their stomach loadod 
with crudities and indigested matter; the non- 
removal of which, by the use uf projier physic, is 
the chief cause why so many die daily. Previously 
to administering a purge, the body should Ije pre- 
pared. 

The projier melho<i of preparing a horse for 
physic, is to give hira two or three mashes of the 
scalded bran and oats, and warm water, for three 
or four days tygether. Tliis will soften the fssces, 
and promote the operation of the medici.ie. But 
if a strong purge be given to ahorse of costive ha- 
bit, without preparation, it will probably occasion 
a violent inflammation. 

Purgati-oe balls for horses. 

Take of Barbadoes aloes. 7A oz.; Gastille soap, 
l^oz.; powder ginger, 1-^ czT; oil of aniseed, 2 
drachms; syrup, a sufficient quantity to make 6 
balls, each of which is a dose. 

Drink to check over purging. 

Take of prepared chalk, ginger, and aniseeds, in 
powder, each 1 ounce, essential oil of peppermint 
15 drops, rectified spirit of wine, ^ an ounce. 

Mix the whole in a pint and a half of warm lin- 
seed gruel, and give it. 

Another. — Take of prepared chalk, 2 ounces, 
aniseeds, and caraway seeds, in powder, each 1 oz. ', 
opium, I a drachm. Mix, and give it in a pint of 
linseed gruel. 

Astringent drink after looseness. 

If the looseness continue, after the above drink 
has been administered for 2 or 3 days, the follow- 
ing astringent drink may be given. 

Take of pomegranate shell, iti powder, and pre 
pared testaceous powder, each 1 oz. ; Dover's pow 
ders, and ginger powdered, each 2 drachms. Mix, 
and give in a pint of warm gruel, and repeat twicu 
.'I day. 

Cough drink. 

Take of Barbadoes tar. auisated balsam of sul- 
phur, each 1 oz. Incoi-porate them with the yolk 
of an egg, then add, nitre, 1 oz., ginger, ^ an oz.^ 
tincture of opium, 1 oz. Mix them together. 

Let this drink be gradually mixed in a pint ot 
warm ale or linseed tea, and give it in the morning 
fasting; let the horse stand without meat for two 
hours after, then give him a inash of scalded bran 
and oats and warm water. Repeat every other 
morning, for three or four times. 

Fever ball for lioraes. 

Take of antimonial powder, tartarised artimony, 
and camphor, each 1 drachm; nitre and Castille 
soap, ea;.-h 2 do.; Barbadoes aloes, 2 drachms. 
Mix, and beat them into a ball with syrup of buck- 
thorn. 

Let this ball be given to the horse about 2 hours 
after bleeding; and in 6 hours after giving him the 
ball, let him have the following 
Purgative dnnk. 

Take of Epsom salts, 4 oz ; nitre, § an oz. ; 
coarse sugar, two table-spoonsful. Dissolve them 



270 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK 



ma quart of gruel; then add 10 oz. of castor oil. i 
Mix, and give it while new milk warm. 

After tiie first ball is given, tlie aloes may be 
left out, and then the ball and drink maybe given 
once a <!ay (one in the morning, and the otlier in 
the evening), until a proper passage be obtained. 
Poxoerfid mixture for fevers. 
If the fever still continue to increase, it will be 
proper to tal e a little more blood from him, and 
then to itave recourse to the following fever powder. 
Take of emetic tartar, \ oz.; calcined antimony, 
2 oz.; calcined hartshorn, I oz. Mix, and grind 
them in a mortar to a fine powder; then put them 
in a bottle for use; 2 drachms of these powders 
are a proper dose for a horse. 

A dose of this powder, with one ounce of nitre, 
may be given twice or three times a day, in a pint 
of warm gruel, or b.e made into a ball with con- 
serve of roses. If the fever be vio-ent, and the 
horse in a raging state, ^ an ounce of tincture of 
opium may be added to each dose of powders. 
Drink far an infammalorr/ fever. 
Take of tartar emetic, 1 drachm; prepared kail, 
§ oz. ; camphor, 1 cirachm, rubbed into powder, 
with a few drops of spirit of wine. 

This drink is excellent for all kinds of inflamma- 
tory fevers; especially such as are attended with 
imminent danger. It may be given every four 
hours, or tiiree times a day, in a pint of water- 
gruel. 

Purging ball for jaundice. 
Take of Barbadoes aloes, from 4 to 5 drachms; 
white anlimonial powder, and Caslille soap, each 
2 drachms; calomel, 1 drachm. Mix, and beat 
them into a ball with a sufficient quantity of syrup 
of buckthorn. 

The horse should have a couple of mashes tite 
day before tliis ball is given, by way of prei)ara- 
tion, and the ball should be given fasting the morn- 
ing following; let him fast for two hours after, then 
give him a mash of scalded bran and oats, witli 
warm water, and treat him in the same manner as 
for other physic. 

Restorative balls after jaundice. 
Take of genti.an and caraway seeds, in powder, 
of each, 8 ou«ces; powdered ginger, and precipi- 
tated sulphur of antimony, of each 6 drachms; 
Castille soap, 1^ oz. ; and honey sufficient to form 
into 6 balls. 

One of these balls should be given every other 
day for some time. 

Pectoral balls for broken •coind. 
Take of Barbadoes tar, Venice turpentine, and 
Castille soap, each 2 ounces; squills, in powder, 1 
ounce; calomel, 3 drachms. Beat them well to- 
gether; then add, nitre, 2 oz., aniseeds and cara- 
way seeds, fresh powdered, each 1 oz. Beat them 
into a mass with honey and liquorice powder, and 
divide into ten balls. 

Alterative balls for Turf tit, mange, &c. 
Take of precipitated sulphur of antimony, gen- 
tian root, and socotrine aloes, each 1 oz. in fine 
powder; nitre, 2 oz.; calomel, and cautharides, in 
powder, each 2 drachms. Mix, and. make tliem 
into a mass for balls, with honey or treacle. Each 
ball to weigh 1 ounce and a half. 

These bal!«s will be found very useful in many 
diseases; such as surfeit, hidebound, mange, grease, 
or swelled It^gs, lameness of the joints, molten- 
grease, inflammation of the eyes, and, indeed, in 
all lingering and obstinate diseases. One ball may 
be given every other morning, for a fortnight or 
three weeks together. 

Astringent ball for profuse staleing. 
Take of galls and alum, in fine pov/der, of each 
2 drachms; Peruvian bark, ^ ounce. Make into a 
ball, with honey or treacle. 



It v/ill be proper to repeat this ball every tnor>}« 
ing, and, if the disease is obstinatt, every nigiK 
and morning, and continue until tiie urine is dimin- 
ished to about its natural quantity. 

Restorative balls for pr-ofufsc staleing. 

Take of gentian root, in powder, iialf an ounce; 
ginger, i)owdered, 2 drachms; alum, 1 <h-achmj 
treacle, sufficient to make into a ball. 
Mercurial ball for toorms. 

Take of calomel and Castille soap, of each 1 dr.; 
worm-seed, in powder, half an ounce. Beat them 
into a ball with syrup of buckthorn. 

This ball should be given at night, and the fol- 
lowing drink, or pin-ging ball, the next morning. 
Drink for •worms. 

Take of Barbadoes aloes, from 3 to 6 drachms; 
(according to tlieir size and strength), worm-seed 
and gentian, in powder, each ^ an oz. ; caraway 
seeds, in powder, 1 oz. Mix, and give in a pint 
of strong decoction of wormwood, and repeat in 
about 4 or 5 days; but omit giving the mercurial 
ball after the first time. 

Purging ball for the worms. 

Take of Barbadoes aloes, 8 drachms; ginger, 
Castille soap, and oil of savin, each 2 drachms; 
syrup of buckthorn, sufficient to make them into a 
ball. 

This purge is calculated for a strong horse; but 
it may be made weaker, by lessening the quantity 
of aloes to 6 or 7 drachms, which are, in general, 
suflicient after a meicurial ball. The horse should 
have mashes, warm water, and proper exercise. 
Stomach drink after the expidsion of the -worms. 

Take of compound spirit of ammonia, and sweet 
spirit of nitre, each 1 oz. ; gentian root, in powder, 
1| oz.; Peruvian bark, and hiera picra, in powder, 
each half an ounce, horse-spice, 2 oz. Mix the 
whole in three pints of ale, and divide into three 
parts, and give one every morning fasting. 

Two hours after, give him a mash and warm 
water. The virtues of this drink deserve the high- 
esf commendation in restoring those horses which 
have been much reduced by some long-continued 
disease; as in lowness of spirits; debility, and re- 
laxation of the solids; a loss of appetite; and for 
such also as are over-ridden, either in the field or 
on the road. 

Salts for the staggers. 

Take of James's powders, 2 drachms, turmeric, 
and cream of tartar, each half an o'\nce. Make 
them into a ball with conserve of loses or honey; a 
sufficient quantity. 

Clyster for convidsions. 

Take of linseed, and valerian root, each, 4 oz.; 
boil them in 3 quarts of water to 4 pints; add, Ep- 
som salts, 4oz. ; assafoetida, ^ oz.; opiutn, 2 dr. 
Dissolve the whole in the abo^e while hot, and ap- 
ply it new milk warm. 

This is a most powerful clyster in all disorders 
of the intestines, that are attended with pam and 
convulsions, or spasms, in those parts, such as 
a violent attack ot the colic, proceeding frora an 
obstruction in the Ub nary passage. 

'I'o cure gripes i''i horsf. 

This disorder goes by different names in differ- 
ent districts of the country: as fret, from the unea- 
siness attending it; bots, from its being thought to 
arise from these animals or worms, &i. The 
animal looks dull and rejects his food; becomes 
restless and uneasy, fre<iuently pawing; voids his 
excrements in small quantities, and often tries to 
stale; looks round, as if towards his own flank, or 
the seat of complaint; soon appears to get worse, 
often lying down, and sometimes suddenly rising 
up, or at times trying to roll, even in the stable, 
&c. As the disorder goes on, the pain becomes 
more violent, he appears more restless still, kicks 



FARRIERY. 



271 



at his belly, groans, rolls often, or tumbles about, 
with other marlts of great agitation; Jjecomes fe- 
verish, and has a cold moistui-e at the roots of his 
ears and about his flanks, and when he lies at rest 
a little space, begins to perspire strongly, and to 
g«t covereu with sweat more or less profuse. 

In most cases of ordinary gripes, signs of flatu- 
lence, or of the presence of air confined in tiie 
bowels, occur and constitute a part of the disease, 
or inci-ease it., The removal of it is, therefore, an 
object to wiiich the attention of most grooms has 
been in a chief degree directed; and as it can fre- 
quently be got rid of, and tlie disease cured, by 
exciting tiie powerful action of the intestines, cor- 
dial and stimulating medicines are had recourse to, 
and, no doubt, in many have afforded relief. Some 
farriers, indeed, without much care in distinguish- 
ing cases, almost exclusively rely upon such, and 
employ them too freely. This, however, should 
not be done: for it sometimes happens, that disor- 
<lers not unlike flatulent colic or gripes do occur, 
when there is neither pent up air present, nor any 
relaxation or want of energy and action in the in- 
testines themselves, and stimulating medicines 
might then do no good, but often much mischief. 

When the disorder is early discovered, or has 
newly come on, it will be proper to lose no time 
to get ready a clyster, and likewise a medicinal 
draught for removing the wind and abating the 
pain. After removing witii the hand any excre- 
ment in the great gut that can be reaclied by it, a 
clyster, made of five or six quarts of water, or wa- 
ter-gruel, blood warm, and six or eight ounces of 
sommon salt, may be "njected: and one or other of 
the following draughts may be given, before or 
about the same time: 

Draught for the same. 

Take of Venice turpentine, 1 oz., beat it up 
with the yolk of an egg, and then add of pepper- 
mint water, or even of common water, if the other 
is not at hand, I pint and a half (English measure) 
-and 2 ounces of whiskey or gin. This will serve 
for one dose. 

Another. — Take of table beer, a little warmed, 
1^ pint (English); common pepper or powdered 
ginger, 1 tea-spoonful; gin, whiskey, or rum, from 
2 to i ounces, or from 1 to 2 glasses full; these 
mixed together for one dose. 

Another. — Oil of turpentine, 1 ounce, and water- 
gtuel, I 1-2 pints (English) mixed, for a dose. 

These and the like preparations may be given 
either out of a bottle, or drench-horn, one or two 
persons raising and keeping properly up the horse's 
head.; while another, who administers the medi- 
cine, pulls out, and a little aside, the tongue, with 
his left hand, and with the other pours .ii the 
draught. 

Further treatment. 

Cordial drenches of the kinds recommended, 
with the clyster, will have effect in ordinary casv^s 
to relieve the disorder. But should this not be the 
OMSe, after waiting an hour or two (longer or shorter 
according to the severity of the ailment, or the pe- 
riod since its commencement), then the medicine 
should be repeated, but in a less dose than at first — 
perhaps one-half or two-thirds of the former quan- 
tity. The horse should be occasionally walked out, 
properly covered with clothes, lest the chill air 
brinj5 on ohivering, and give rise to feverishness; 
and his belly should be now and then rubbed a con- 
siderable time at once, five or ten minutes, but 
with intervals of rest, so that it may have time to 
stale or dung. If the disorder does not yield to 
these remedies, then others must be employed of 
•A more aciive nature. Some persons recommend 
castor oil in the proportion of half a pint to a pint 
(JSngUsh,), with an ounce or two of laudanum, or 



tincture of opium, mixed with water-gruel, in the 
quantity of a pint (English) or rather less. In case 
the horse has lain down, and continued so for some 
time, and is covered with sweat, when he rises, 
two or more persons should be employed to rtd) 
him dry, and he should also be kept well clothed. 
The stable should be airy, moderately cool, ami 
his place in it roomy and well littered, to keep him 
from hurting himself should he roll about. 
WMte's ^all for gripes. 

Draughts of litiuid medicine operate more spee- 
dily than any other form; but as the disorder may 
attack a horse during a journey, where such cannot 
readily be procured, Mr White has given a receipt 
for a ball for the convenience of those who travel; 
and if it be wrapped up closely in a piece of blad- 
der, it may be kept a considerable time without 
losing its power. The ball is composed of tlie fol- 
lowing ingreiMents, viz. Castille soap, 3 \\v.:, cam- 
phor, 2 drachms; ginger, 1 drachm and a half; and 
Venice turpentine, 6 drachms; .to be made into a 
ball for one dose. 

Lmidannm draught. 

Laudanum ma}' be used in cases of urgency, es- 
pecially in the wet or lax gripes. Take a quart of 
beer, and make it a very little warmer than blood 
heat; then put a table- spoonful of powdered gin- 
ger into it, and a small wine-glassful of laudanum, 
just before it is given to the horse. This, in most 
cases, will give ease in a short time; but it 
the complaint is exceedingly violent, give about 
half the above quantity again in 15 or 20 minutes. 
As s. on as the pain seems to be abated, if the belly 
is costive, give the horse a purgative. In case of 
looseness no pu''gative must be given, the lauda- 
num, which is of a binding nature, will correct it. 

When pain is occasioned by inflammation, it is 
seldom proper to employ opium, or any medicine'' 
of that kind; but when it depends upon spasm, or 
irritation, no medicines are so beneficial. In in- 
flammation of the bowels, for example, ojiiura 
would certainly do much injury, but in flatulent 
or spasmodic colic, or gripes, it seldom fails of 
success. 

Another anodyne medicine. 

When horses are affected w:th colic, or where 
the use of anodynes are requisite, the following 
preparation may be given: namely, opium, 1 dr. 
or 60 grains; Castille soap, 2 dr., and powdered 
aniseed, half an ounce or 4 dr. ; to be made into a 
ball with syrup, for une dose. 

In speaking of the medicines for gripes, or the 
flatulent colic, sometimes termed fret, Mr White 
mentions, domestic remedies may be employed 
when proper medicines cannot be procured in time. 
For this purpose a draught may be readily made 
up of a pint of strong peppermint water, with 
about 4 ounces of gin, and any kind of spice. 

Another. — A pint of port wine, with spice or 
ginger. 

Another. — Half a pint of gin diluted witli 4 oz. 
of water and a litttle ginger. 

Another. — Take of Epsom salts, 6 oz.; Castille 
soap, sliced, 2 oz. Dissolve them in 1-J pints df 
warm gruel; then add, tincture of opium, J oz. ; 
oil of juniper, 2 drachms. Mix, and give them 
new-milk warm. 

This drink may be repeated every four or five 
hours, till the symptoms begin to abate. 
7 'he same ivhen on a journey. 

Take of tincture of Ojiium, and oil of juniper, 
each 2 drachms.; sweet spirit of nitre, tincture of 
benzoin, and aromatic spirit of ammonia, each J 
oz. Mix them together in a bottle for one drink, 
and give it in a pint of warm gruel. 

For the colic, flatulency, and colicky pains of 
t the intestines, this drink will be found a valuaHle 



£72 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



cordial. It may be Repeated every two hours un- 
til the symptoms abate. 

Anotlier. — The complaint may be removed by 
■warm beer ar.d ginger, or a cordial ball, mixed 
■with warm beer. 

It is neucssarj' to repeat the caution given i-e- 
specting the necessity of distinguishing the flatu- 
lent, or windy, or spasmodic colic, from the in- 
jlammatory one, and from that which depends on 
costiveness. It is always necessary to empty the 
bowels by means of clysters; and, should the horse 
have appeared dull and heavy previous to the at- 
tack, it will be advisable to bleed. If costiveness 
attends it, give a laxative drench after the parox- 
yom, wliicb will prevent its return. 

To cure surfeit or bad coat in horses. 

Take crocus metallorum, or liver of antimony, 
1 oz. ; si)rinkle it with water, or mix it witli moist 
bran. Tiiis may be given to horses s'lbject to this 
disoir'er once a day, among their oats; it relieves 
the appetite, destroys worms, sweetens the blood 
against all obstructions, opens the passages, and 
improves tired and lean horses in a great degree; 
it is also of great service in coughs and shortness 
of breath. It may be given daily from 2 to 4 
■weeks, and will soon produce a fine coat. The 
horse may be worked while lie is taking the medi- 
cine, care being taken not to expose him to wet or 
cold. 

Urine ^allyfor horses. 

Mix together, 1 vi. of oil of juniper, 1 oz. of 
balsam of sulphur, 2 oz. of Venice turpentine, 4 
oz. of sal prunella, 1 lb. of black rosin. 

Melt all together gentl)', over a slow fire, in an 
iron pot, and make up into balls of the size of a 
nutmeg. 

Another. — Take of nitre, 3 lbs. resin, 3 lbs. 
soap, 1^ do. juniper berries, 1 lb. oil of juniper, 
H oz 

To be made up into balls, of the common size, 
with spirits of turpentine. 

To cure diseases in horses' feet. 

Every person may see, upon turning up the bot- 
tom of a horse's foot, an angular projection point- 
ing towards the toe, termed the trog and its bai'S; 
the remainder, or hollow part, being technically 
termed the sole, though the entire bottom of the 
foot might better receive this name. It is certain, 
however, that " the frog and sole" require pressure 
— a congenial kind of pressure without concussion 
— that shall cause the sensible, inside, or quick- 
sole, to perform its functions of absorbing the 
serous particles secreted, or deposited therein, by 
the blood vessels. If the frog and its bars are 
permitted to remain in such a state as to reach the 
ground, wherever the Sod happens to be soft, or 
yielding, the hollow part of the sole receives its 
due proportion of pressure laterally, and the whole 
sole, or surface of the foot, is thereby kept in 
health, or rather, free from canker. 
J*reventio7i. 

Every veterinarian, of sense, will perceive the 
necessity of keeping tne heels apart; yet, although 
the immediate causeof their contracting is so uni- 
versally known and recognized, the injudicious 
method (to call it by no harsher name) of pearing 
away the frog and sole, which prevents the bars 
from ever touching the ground, is still continued 
to an alarming extent. 

So much for prevention. When disease comes 
on, which may be accelerated by two other species 
of mismanagement, another course is usually fol- 
lowed, not less injudicious than the first mentioned 
original cause of all the mischief. 

Horses' hoofs are of two distinct kinds or shane; 
the one being oval, hai-d, dark-coloured and thick, 
the other round, palish, and thin in the wall, or 



crust of the hoof. The first have a different kind 
of frog from the latter; this being broad, thick, 
and soft, whilst the oval hoof has a frog tliat is 
long, acute, and hard. The rags, which hard- 
work and frequent shoeing occasion on the horny 
hoof of the round foot, produce raggef" frogs also, 
both being thus pared away to make a fair bottom 
to receive the shoe (burning hot!), 'he wlsole sup- 
port is so far reduced, and tli« sensible sole coming 
much nearer the ground, becomes tender and lia- 
ble to those painful concussions wliich bring on 
lameness — principally of the fore feel. Contrac- 
tion of those kir.ds of heels which belong to the 
cart-horse, and pommice-foot, are the consequence. 

The oval fool pertains to the saddle-horse, the 
hunter, and bit of blood kind, whose bold project- 
ing frogs the farriers remove, and these being com- 
pelled to perform long and painful journeys, ever 
starting or going off with the same leading-leg, 
and continuing the same throughout, lameness is 
contracted in that foot, which none can account for, 
nor even find out whereabout it may be sealed. 
Applications of " the oyls," (that egregious com- 
pound of folly, ignorance, and brutality,) follow 
the first appearance of lameness, and arc made 
alike to the shoulder, the leg, and the sole, under 
the various pretences of rheumatism, strain in the 
shoulder, and founder. The real cause, however, 
is not thought of, much less removed; but, on the 
contrary, the evil is usually augmented, by remov- 
ing the sluie, and drawing the sole to the quick 
nearly, in search of supposititious corns, surbatings, 

&c pretended remedies, that were never known 

to cure, but which might have been all prevented 
by the simplest precautions imaginable-. These 
are — 

1st. Let the frog and sole acquire their nature 
thickness. — 

2d. Lead oft' sometimes with one leg, sometime.'' 
with the other. — 

3d. Stuff the hollow of the hoofs (all four of 
them) with cow-dung, changing it entirely once 
a day. In every case, it is advisable that he be 
worked moderately; for it is useless to talk to the 
owners of horses, about giving the afflicted animal 
an entire holiday at grass. 

Should the proprietor of the beast be a sordid 
customer, the farrier can expect no fee for such 
simple advice as is here given; sohenrust pi-ocure 
a phialful of water, and putting therein a little 
saltpetre, (nitrated kali of the shops), and a little 
colouring matter, to be either mixed with the 
stuffing, or to wash the sole clean daily, though 
the remedy will do as well (nearly) without such 
addition. A more efiicacious auxiliary will be 
found in procuring a patch of clay, to be kneaded 
on the ground, on which the animal (which is 
worth so much trouble) may be allowed to stand, 
and if a small patch be made for each foot, the 
horse himself will prove their value (in most cases) 
by feeling for them as it were, and showing by his 
manner, how gratified he is at the coldness they 
afford to his heated feet. Herein it must be ob- 
served, that stuffing with clay is not recommended; 
this being one of the numerous blunders of those 
farriers, who, naving found the benefit of any a[>- 
plication or remedy, push it to a ridiculous ex- 
tremity. 

Remedy for lameness in horses. 

Mr Sewell, of the Veterinary College, stated 
his having discovered a method, of curing horses, 
which are lame in the fore-feet. It occurred to 
him, that this lameness might originate in the 
nerves of the foot, near the hoof; and in conse- 
quence he immediately amputated about an inch 
of the diseased nerve, taking the usual precaution 
of guarding the arteries, and passing ligatui'en 



FARRIERY. 



273 



be. By this means the animal was instantly re- 
lieved from pain, and the lameness perfectly cured. 
7(9 aire the thrush in horses'' feet. 
Simmer over the fire, till it turns brown, equal 
parts of honey, vinegar, and verdigris, and apply 
it with a feather or brush occasionally to the feet. 
The horse at the same time should stand hard, and 
all soft dung and straw be removed. 
Shoeing horses in •lointer. 

In Canada, where the winter is never of a less 
duration than 5 months, they shoe their horses in 
the following manner, which serves for the whole 
winter: — The smith fixes a small piece of steel 
on the fore part of each shoe, not tempered too 
hard, which turns up about a J^ of an inch, in tlie 
shape of a horse's lancet; the same to the hinder 
part of the shoe, turned up a little higher than the 
lore-part, tempered in the same manner. In going 
up a hill, the fore-part gives a purchase that assists 
the horse, and in going down prevents liim sliding 
forwards. 

To prevent the feet of horses from balling -with 
snow. 

If the frog in the hoofs of horses and the fetlock 
be cleaned, and well rubbed with soft soap, pre- 
viously to their going out in snowy weather, it 
will effectually prevent their falling, from what is 
termed hailing the snow. A number of accidents 
might be prevented hy this simple precaution. 
Ointment for the mimge. 

Take of common turpentine, 1 pound, quick- 
silver, 4 ounces, hog's lard, ^ a pound, flour of 
sulphur, 4 oz. train oil, ^ a pint. 

Grind the silver with the turpentine, in a mar- 
ble mortar, for five or six hours, until it completely 
disappears: and add a little oil of turpentine to 
make it rub easier; then add the remainder, and 
work them all well together till united. 

This ointment raust.be well rubbed on every part 
affected, in the open air, if the sun:>hine and the 
weather be warm; but if it be winter, take the 
horse to a blacksmith's sliop, where a large bar of 
iron must be heated, and held at a proper distance 
over him, to warm the ointment. 

Liniment for the mange. 

Take of white precipitate, 2 ounces, strong 
mercurial ointment, 2 ounces, sulphur of vivuin, 
1 pound, flour of sulphur, ^ a pound, rape oil, 2 
quarts. 

First grind the white precipitate in a little oil; 
afterwards add the remainder, taking care that they 
are well mixed. 

This liniment must be well rubbed in with a 
hard brush, in the open air, provided the day be 
fine, and the weather warm. If the horse draws 
in a team, the inside of the collar must be washed, 
or the inside of the saddle, if a saddle-horse, for 
the disease is highly contagious. 
Eye-ivater. 

Take of camphor, 2 drachms, dissolved in 2 
ounces of rectified spirit of wine, Goulard's ex- 
tract, 1 oz. rose water, 1 quart. 

Shake all together in a bottle for use. 

Let the eye and the eye-lids be well bathed three 
or four times a day, with a clean linen rag dipped 
in the eye-water. 

For injlammation of the lungs. 

Take of white antimonial powder, 2 drachms, 
prepared kali, \ an ounce, nitre, ^ an ounce, Cas- 
tille soap, 2 drachms, aromatic confection, ^ an 
ounce. 

iieat Ihera into a ball. 

This ball must be given to the horse as soon as 
It can be prepared, after he has been bled; and con- 
tinue it two or three times a day as long as me in- 
flammation continues; — about six hours after, give 
bim a purging drink, and repeat it every night and 



mornin.t until a passage is obtained, or the bowelt 
are sufiiciently oi)ened. 

Embrocation for sprains. 

Take of soap liniment and camphorated spirit 
of wine, of each, 8 ounces, oil of turpentine, half 
an ounce. 

Mix and shake when used. 

This evaporating and discutient embrocation is 
we.l calculated to remove pain and inflammation, 
which is generally effected in the coui-se of a fort- 
night or three weeks; during that time the horse 
s..ould not be allowed to go out of the stable or 
farm-yard. 

Bracing mixture for sprains. 

After the above embrocation, the following 
bracing mixture must be rubbed on the part once 
a day. 

Take of Egyptiacum, 2 oz. oil of turpentine, 
1 oz. 

Shake well together; then add camphorated spirit 
of wine, and compound tincture of benzoin, each 
X oz. vinegar, 11 oz. 

Mix, and shake well together every time they 
are used. 

Paste to slop bleeding. 

Take of fresh nettles, 1 handful, bruise them in 
a mortar; add blue vitriol, in powder, 4 oz. wheat- 
en flour, 2 oz. wine vinegar, ^ oz. oil of vitriol, 
^oz. 

Beat them all together into a paste. 

Let the wound be filled up with this paste, and 
a proper pledget of tow laid over the mouth, in 
order to prevent it from falling out, and then ban- 
dage it on with a strong roller. This dressing 
must remain in the wound 10 or 12 hours. 
Ointinent for sc^atclied heels. 

Take of hog's lard, 1 pound, white lead, 4 oz. 
alum, in fine powder, 2 oz. white vitriol, 1 oz, su- 
gar of lead, ^ oz. olive oil, 3 oz. 

Grind all the powders in a marble mortar with 
the oil, or on a marble slab; then add the lard, and 
work the whole together till united. 

This is a neat composition, and very proper to 
keep in the stable during the winter; it will not only 
be found useful' for greasy and scratched heels, but 
also for stubs and treads of every description. A 
small quantity must be rubbed on the part affected 
every nigh^ and morning, in slight cases; but in 
treads, or wounds upon the heels, it will be best 
to spread the ointment on pledgets of tow, and se- 
cure them with bandages. 

Ointment for greasy heels. 

Take of white ointment, 1 pound, white vitriol, 
blue vitriol, and sugar of lead, in powder, each, 
^oz. 

Mix well together. 

This ointment, when used, must be spread on 
strong brown paper, and applied over the part that 
greases, and bandaged on with listing. He may, 
after dressing, be turned into a dry straw-yard, 
and a few diuretic balls given to him, one may be 
given every third day. Once dressing is in gene- 
ral sufiicient to perform a cure; if not, it may be 
repeated in a week after. 

Astringent embrocation for strains in differera 
parts. 

Take of camphor, 2 drachms, dissolved in halt 
an ounce of strong rectified spirit of wine, nitre, 
I oz. dissolved in half a pint of wine vinegar, 
spirits of turpentine, 4 ounces, white lead, or bole 
armenic, in powder, half an ounce, aqua fortf s, 1 oz. 

Mix, and shake them all together in a bottle for 
use. 

Mixture for canker in the mouth. 

Take of wine vinegar, half a pint, burnt alum, 
and common salt, eacli, one ounce, bole arinenie, 
half an ounce. 



274 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



Mix, and shake them together in a bottle for use. 

It will be proper to dress the horse's mouth with 
this mixture, every morning and evening, in the 
following manner: Take a small cane, or a piece 
of whalebone, half a yard long, and tie a lin^jn 
rag, or a little tow, round one end; then dip it in- 
to the mixture, and pass it up his mouth, and 
gently remove it to all the affected parts: let him 
champ it well about in his mouth; after which lit 
him fast aa hour, then give meat as usual. 

Purging ball for dofs. 
Take of jalap, in powder, 1 scruple, Barbadoes 
aloes, 1 drachm, ginger, in powder, 10 grains, con- 
serve of hips, or syrup, enough to form a ball. 
Ointment for the mange. 
Take of quicksilver, 3 oz. balsam of sulphur, 
2 02. oil of turpentine, 3 oz. soft soap, 1 pound, 
Cape aloes, in powder, ^ oz. 

Rub the quicksilver with the balsam of sulphur, 
in a marble mortar, for three or four hours, or un- 
til the globules completely disappear; and while 
rubbing keep gradually add'ng the oil of turpen- 
tine; having done this, you may then mix the whole 
well together for use. It must be well rubbed in 
on the affected parts, every third day, for three or 
four times. 

Uniment for the mange. 

Take of flour of sulphur, 4 oz. sulphur of vi- 
vum, 4 oz. white precipitate, 1 oz. strong mer- 
curial ointment, I oz. Cape aloes, in powder, ^ oz. 
rieflt's-foot-oil, 1^ pint. 

First rub the powders together in a mortar; then 
put in the ointment, and gradually add the oil; it 
must be stirred when used. The affected parts 
must be well anointed -vith this liniment, every 
third day, for three or four times. 

JMerairial liniments for the red mange. 

Take of mild mercurial ointment, 4 oz. oil of 
turpentine, 3 oz. Cape aloes, in powder, ^ oz. 

Mix well together, and anoint the parts every 
third day for three or four times. Many sports- 
men have their dogs regularly dressed with this 
liniment two or three weeks before the hunting 
season commences; it is supposed to improve their 
scent, and make them more fit for the chase. 
Mild ointments for the mange. 

Take of oil of vitriol, half an ounce, hogs' lard, 
8 ounces. Mix, and anoitit the dog every day for 
three or four times, or ofteiler if required. 

This ointment is used in surfeit, and slight cases 
of mange. 

Lotion for the mange. 

Take of white hellebore root, bruised, 2 oz. 
water, 3 pints, boil down to 2 pints and strain, sal 
ammoniac, 2 drs. sublimate, 1 dr. Cape aloes, half 
an oz. 

Dissolve the sal ammoniac, and other ingredi- 
ents, in the decoction. 

This lotion is sometimes used to cure the mange, 
when greasy a',<plications are objected to. 
Distemper in dog^s. 

The following prescriptions are each about a dose 
for a full-grown pointer. They must, of course, 
be increased or diminished in proportion to the 
size and strength of the dog. 

Take of opium, 3 grains, emetic tartar (an in- 
valuable medicine), 5 grains. To be given at night. 

Repeat the dose every third night, till the dog 
is recovered; taking care to keep him in a warm 
place, and always fed with a warm liquid diet, such 
as broth, gruel, &c. 

If the nostrils should discharge, have them wash- 
ed, or syringed, twice a day, with a lotion of alum, 
or sugar of lead; putting about half an ounce of 
either to ft pint of water. 



Aiiother. — For a half grotun pointer. 

Take of jalap powder, "25 grains, caLmel, 5 
grains. Made into a pill with a little gum water. 
For a full grown pointer. 

Take of jalap powder, 30 grs. calomel, 8 grs. 
Mixed as above. 

One of these doses, mixed with butter, or in a 
small piece of meat, should be given to the dog 
every morning, on an empty stomach. The food 
should be light, and easy to digest; and the lotion, 
if required, for the nostrils, should be observed 
here, as before mentioned. 

Distemper among cattle. 
Examine your cow's mouth, though she appears 
very well; and if you find any pimple in it, or on 
the tongue, or if you perceive any within the skin 
ready to come out, immediately house her, keep 
her warm, and give her warm tar-water. To a 
large beast give a gallon; to a small one three 
quarts. Give it four times every clay; but not 
every time the quantity you first gave. Lessen the 
dose b}' degrees; but never give less than two 
quarts to a large beast, nor less than three pints to 
a small one; and house her every night for some 
time, and give her warm gruel and malt mash. 
To make tar-ioater for cows. 
Take one quart of tar, put to it 4 quarts of wa- 
ter, and stir it very well ten or twelve minutes; let 
it stand a little while, and then pour it off for use. 
You must not put water to the same tar more than 
twice. Let the first dose be made of fresh tar. 
Continue to give it till the beast is well. Don't 
let her go too soon abroad. 

For the garget in cows. 
This disorder is very frequent in cows after ceas- 
inp; to be milked; it affects the glands of the udder 
with hard swellings, and often arises from the ani- 
mal not being clean milked. It may be removed 
by anointing the part three times a day witii a lit- 
tle ointment composed of camphor and blue oint- 
ment. Half a drachm or more of calomel may 
be given in warm beer, from a horn or bottle, for 
three or four mornings, if the disorder is violent. 
'J'o cure the redwater in cattle. 
Take 1 oz. of bole armoniac, half an ounce of 
dragon's blood, 2 ounces of Castille soap, and 1 
drachm of roche alum. Dissolve these in a quart 
of hot ale, or beer, and let it stand until it is blood 
warm; give this as one dose, and if it should have 
the desired effect, give the same quantity in about 
12 hours after. This is an excellent medicine for 
changing the water, and acts as a purgative; every 
farmer that keeps any number of cattle, should al- 
ways have doses of it by him. 

To cure the scouring in cattle. 
The following composi/ion has been found to 
succeed in many cases which were apparently draw- 
ing to a fatal termination. 

Take of powdered rhubarb, 2 drachms, castor 
oil, I ounce, kali, prepared, 1 tea-spoonful. 

Mix well together in a pint of warm milk. If 
the first dose does not answer, repeat it in 36 or 
48 hours. If the calf will suck, it will he proper 
to allow him to do it. 

Cure for cattle swelled with green food. 
When any of your cattle happen to get swelled 
with an over feed of clover, frosty turnips, or such 
like, instead of the usual method of stabbing in the 
side, apply a dose of train oil, which, after repeat- 
ed trials, has been found to prove successful. The 
quantity of oil must vary according to the age or 
size of the animal. For a grown-up beast, of an 
ordinary size, the quantity recommended is about 
an English pint, which roust be administered to 
the animal with a bottle, taking care, at the same 



FARRIERY. 



275 



time, to rub the stomach well, in order to make it 
go down. After receiving this medicine, it must 
be made to walk about until such time as the swell- 
ing begins to subside. 

Treatment of cattle and fo-wls. 
The experiment has often been tried of the bene- 
fit derived to horses from being well combed and 
kept clean: it has been found that a horse neglect- 
ed as to cleanliness, will not be so well condition- 
ed, either for fatness or strength, though he gets 
abundance of corn; at least, it is certain that it 
would be worth trying. This every body knows, 
that the most neglected of the horse race are kept 
cleaner than the cleanest of the horned cattle, par- 
ticularly those shut up in houses. 

"1 have two hints to give," says a contempo- 
rary writer, "as the expense can be nothing, 
and the advantage may be great, I read in a De- 
scription of Norway, that when the cows drink at 
the hot-springs, they give more milk than those 
that drink cold wiater. Cows drink so much at a 
time, that there is no doubt, when the water is 
nearly at freezing, they must feel sensibl)^ cooled 
all over, which will naturally affect their produce 
of milk. I would therefore propose the experi 
ment of warming the water, for milch cows, in 
cold weather." 

The next proposal is, that the corn given to fowls 
should be crushed, and soaked in water; this helps 
the digestion, and hens will lay in winter when so 
fed, that would not otherwise. 

In a time of scarcity, and when the food of man 
is dear, such experiments as proposed are well 
worth making: and the practice proposed with 
the fowls ought to become general, as it costs 
nothing. 

To cure the measles in swine. 

It sometimes happens, tliough seldom, that swine 
have the measles; while tliey are in this state, their 
flesh is very unwholesome food. I'his disorder is 
not easily discovered while the anima! is alive, 
and can only be known by its not thriving or fat- 
tening as the others. After the animal is killed 
and cut up, its fat is full of little kernels, about 
the size of the roe or eggs of a salmon. VVIien 
this is the case, put into the food of e'.ch hog, once 
or twice a week, as much crude pounded antimo- 
ny as will lie on a slnlling. This is very proper 
for any feeding swine, even though they have no 
disorder. A small quantity of the flour of brim- 
stone, also, may be given among their food when 
they are not thriving, which will be found of great 
service to them. But the best method of prevent- 
ing disorders in swine, is to keep their sties per- 
fectly clean and dry, and to allow them air, exer- 
cise, and plenty of clean straw. 

Mupture in sioine. 

Where a number of swine are bred, it will fre- 
quently happen that some of the pigs will have 
what is called a ' rupture;' i. e. a hole broken in 
the rim of the belly, where part of the guts comes 
out and lodges betwixt the nm of the belly and the 
skin, having an appearance similar to a swelling in 
the testicles. The male pigs are more liable to 
this disorder than the females. It is cured by the 
following means: 

Geld the pig afiected, and cause it to bfe held up 
with its head downwards; flay back the skin from 
the swollen place, and from the situation in which 
the pig is held, ihe guts will naturally return to 
their proper place. Sew up the hole with a needle, 
which must have a square point, and also a bend 
in it, as the disease often happens between the 
hinder legs, where a straight needle cannot be 
used. After this is done, replace the skin that 
was flayed back, and sew it up, when the opera- 



tion is finished. The pig should not hwe much 
food for a few days after the operation, until the 
wound begins to heal. 

For the foot-rot in sheep. 
Take a piece of alum, a piece of green vitriol, 
and some while mercury — the ahim must be in the 
largest proportion; dissolve them m water, ana 
after the hoof is pared, anoint it with a feather, 
and bind on a rag over all the foot. 

Another. — Pound some green vitriol fine, and 
apply a little of it to the part of the foot affected, 
binding a rag over the foot as above. Let the 
sheep be kept in the house a few hours after this 
is done, and then turn them out to a dry pasture. 
This is the most common way of curing the foot- 
rot in Middlesex. 

.Another. — Others anoint the part with a feather 
dipt in aqua fortis, or weak nitrons acid, which 
dries i; at once. Many drovers that take sheep to 
Smithfield, carry a little bottle of this about with 
tlicm, which, by applying to the foot with a fea- 
ther, helps a lame sheep by hardening its hoof, and 
enabling it to travel better. Some may think aqua 
fortis is of too hot a nature, but such a desperate 
disorder requires an active cure, which, no doubt, 
is ever to be used cautiously. 

Jl?iothei\ — S[)read some slacked quick lime over 
a house floor pretty thick, pare the sheep's feet 
well, and turn them into this house, where they 
may remain for a few hours, after which turn them 
into a dry pasture. This treatment may be re- 
peated two or three times, always observing to 
keep the house clean, and adding a little more 
quick lime before putting them in. 

The foot must be often dressed, and the sheep 
kept as much as possible upon dry land. Those 
anin^ials that are diseased should be kept separate 
from the flock, as the disorder is very infectious. 
Prevention and cure of the foot-rot in sheep. 
On suspected grounds, constant and careful ex- 
amination ought to take place; and when any fis- 
sures or cracks, attended with heat, make their 
appearance, apply oil of turpentine and common 
brandy. This, in general, produces a very bene- 
ficial effect, but where the disease has been Ion? 
seated, and becomes, in a manner, confirmed — af- 
ter cleaning the foot, and paring away the infectedl 
parts, recourse is had to caustics, of which, the 
best seem to be sulphiirie acid, and the nitrate of 
mercury. After this, pledgets are applied,, the 
foot bound up, and the animal kept in a clean, dry 
situation, until its recovery is effected. 

But it often happens, where the malady is in- 
veterate, that the disease refuses to yield to any, 
or all of the above prescriptions. 

The following mode of treatment, however, if 
carefully attended to, may be depended upon as a 
certain cure. Whenever the disease makes its ap- 
pearance, let the foot be carefully examined, and 
the diseased part well washed, and pared as nigh 
as possible, not to make it bleed; and let the floor 
of the house, where the sheep are confined, be 
strewn three or four inches thiuk with quick lime 
hot from the kiln; and the sheep, after having their 
feet dressed in the manner above described, to 
stand in it during the space of 6 or 7 hours. 

In all cases, it is of great importance, that the 
animal be afterwards exposed only to a moderate 
temperatur" — be invigorated with proper food^ 
and kept in clean, easy, dry pasture; and the dis- 
ease will be effectUE,Uy remedied in the course of 
a few days. 

To prevent sheep from catching cold after being 

shorn. 

Sheep are sometimes exposed to cold winds and 

rains immediately after shearing, which exposure 

frequently hurts them. Thpsefarmers who haxe- 



276 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



access to the sea, shiuld plunge them into tht,- 
salt water, those who have not that opportunity, 
and whose flocks are not very large, may mix salt 
wifh water and rub them all over, which will in a 
great measure prevent any mishap befalling the 
animal, after having been Stript of its coat. 

It is very common in the months of June and 
July, for some kinds of sheep, especially the fine 
Leicester breed, which are commonly thin skinned 
about the head, to be struck with a kind of fly, 
and by scratching the place with their feet, they 
TDake it sore and raw. To prevent this, take tar, 
train oil, and salt, boil them fogether, and when 
cold, put a little of it on the part affected. This 
application keeps ofi^ the flies, and likewise heals 
the sore. The salt should be in very small quan- 
tity, or powdered sulphur may be used instead of 
it. 

To cure the scab in sheep. 

Take 1 pound of quicksilver, | a pound of Ve- 
nice turpentine, 2 pounds of hog's iard, and h a 
pound of oil, or spirits of turpentine. A greater 
or less quantity than the above may be mixed up, 
in the same proportion, according to the number 
of sheep aifected. Put the quicksilver and Venice 
turpentine into a mortar, or small pan, which beat 
together until not a particle of the quicksilver can 
be discerned: put in the oil, or spirits of turpen- 
tine, with the hog's lard, and work them well 
together until made into an ointment. The parts 
of the sheep affected must be rubbed with a piece 
of this salve, about the size of a nut, or rather 
less. When the whol" flock is affected, the shep- 
herd must be careful in noticing those that show 
any symptoms of the disorder, by looking back, 
and offering to bite or scratch the spot; and if 
affected, he must immediately apply the ointmi^ut, 
as it is only by paying early and particular attention 
that a flock can be cured. 

To prevent the scab. 

Separating the wool, lay the before-mentioned 
ointment in a strip, from the neck down the back 
lo tiie rump; another strip down each shoulder, 
and one down each hip; it may not be unnecessary 
to put one along each side. Put very little of the 
ointment on, as too much of it may be attended 
with danger. 

7'o destroy maggots in sheep. 

Mix with one quart of spring water, a table 
spoonful of the spirits of turpentine, and as much 
of th-e sublimate powder as will lie upon a shilling. 
Shake them well together, and cork it up in a bot- 
tle, with a quill througli the cork, so that the 
liquid may come out of the bottle in small quan- 
tities at once. The bottle must always be well 
shaken when it is to be used. When the spot is 
observed where the maggots are, do not disturb 
them, but pour a little of the mixture upon the 
spot, as much as will wet the wool and the mag- 
gots. In a few minutes after the liquor is applied 
the maggots will all creep to the top of the wool, 
and in a short time drop off dead. The sheep 
must, however, be inspected next day, and if any 
of the maggots remain undestroyed, shake them 
off", or touch them with a little more of the mixture. 

A little train oil may be applied after the mag- 
gots are removed, as sometimes the skin will be 
hard by applying too much of the liquid. Besides, 
the fly is not so apt to strike y hen it finds the 
smell of the oil, which may prevent a second 
attack. 

This method of destroying maggots 5s superior 
to any other, and it prevents the animsl from being 
disfigured by clipping ofl' the wool, which is a 
common practice in some countries. 
Cure for the scab in sheep. 

Tlie simnlest aatl most efl^cacious remedy for 



this disease, was communicated to the Society for 
the encouragement of arts, &,c. by the late Sif 
Joseph Banks; and is as follows: 

Take 1 lb. of quicksilver, ^ a lb of Venice 
turpentine, ^ a pint of oil of turpentine, 4 lbs. of 
hog's lard. 

Let them be rubbed in a mortar till the quick- 
silver is thoroughly incorporated with the other 
ingredients. For the proper mode of doing which-, 
it may be right to take the advice or even the as- 
sistance of some apothecary, or other person used 
to make such mixtures. 

The method of using the ointment is this: Be- 
ginning at the head of the sheep, and proceeding 
from between the ears, along the back, to the end 
of the tail; the wool is to be divided in a furrow, 
till the skin can be touched, and as the furrow is 
made, the finger, slightly dipped in the ointment, 
is to be drawn along the bottom of it, where it 
will leave a blue stain on the skin and adjoining 
wool. 

From this furrow, similar ones must be drawn 
down the shoulders and thighs to the legs, as far 
as they are woolly; and if the animal is much in- 
fected, two more should be drawn along each side, 
parallel to that on the back, and one down each 
side, between the fore and hind legs. 

Immediately after being dressed, it is usual to 
tui T the sheep among other stock, without any fear 
of the infection being communicated; and there is 
scarcely an instance of a sheep suffering any injury 
from the application. In a few days the blotches 
dry up, the itching ceases, and the animal is com- 
pletely' cured. It is generally, however, thought 
proper not to delay the operation beyond 31ichael- 
mas. 

The hippobosca ovina, called in Lincolnshire 
Sheep-fagg, an animal well known to all shepherds 
which lives among the wool, and is hurtful to tfie 
thriving of slieep, both by the pain its bite occa- 
sions, and the blood it sucks, is destroyed by this 
application, and the wool is not at all injured. 
Our wool-buyers purchase the fleeces on which 
the stain of the ointment is visible, rather in pre- 
ference to others, from an opinion, that the use of 
it having preserved the animal from being vexed, 
either with the scab or faggs, the wool is less lia- 
ble to the defects of joints or knots; a fault observ- 
ed to proceed from every sudden stop in the thriv- 
ing of the animal, either from want of food, or 
from disease. 

To cure the -water m the heads of sheep. 

Of all the various operations by which this dis- 
temper may be eradicated, I must, from experience, 
give the preference to one which will, perhaps, 
astonish such of your readers as form their opini- 
ons more from theory than practice. A number 
of medical men have already controverted the fact^ 
and, with the utmost presumption, disputed my 
veracity to my face, after I had witnessed its effi- 
cacy in a thousand instances. It is no other than 
that of putting a sharpened wire up the nostril 
q'lite through the middle of the brain, and by that 
means perforating the bag which contains the fluid 
causing the disease. This is, of all other raethods, 
the most certain to succeed: but it has this un- 
pleasant appendage annexed to it, if it do not cure, 
it is certain to kill. 

This method of cure is not only the most expe- 
dient, but it is in every shepherd's power, and one 
which he can scarcely perform amiss, if he attend 
to the following plain directions. 

The operation must be performed with a stiff 
steel wire, such as is used for knitting the coarsest 
stockings. It must be kept clean, and free of rust, 
oiled, and. sharpened at the point. Care must be 
taken, however, that its point be only one-eightb 



FARRIERY. 



f»f an inch in length, for if it is fapered like a 
needle, it is apt to take a wrong direction in going 
Op the nostrils, fix in the gristle below thj brain, 
and torment the animal to no purpose. If blunt 
m the point, it often f„"ils to penetrate the bladder, 
■which is of considerable toughness, shoving it only 
a little to one side; the safest way, of course, is to 
have the poiat of the wire sharp and short. 

The shepherd must first feel with his thumbs 
for the soft part in the skull, which invariably J 
marjcs the seat of his disease. If that is near the '• 
middle of the head above, where, in two cases out < 
of three at least, it is sure to be, let him then fix ' 
tlie animal firm betwixt his knees, hold the head ; 
vith one hand, la)'ing his thumb upon the soft or . 
diseased part, aail with the other hand insert the 
wire by the nostril, most on a parallel with the 
seat of the distemper, aiming directly at the point j 
■where his thumb is placed. The operation is per- J 
formed in one second, for if he feels tlie point of j 
the wire come in contact with his tiiumb, let him j 
instantly set the animal to its feet; and if the 
weather is at all cold, let it stand in the house over- 
night. 

If the disease is seated exactly in that part where 
the divisions of the skull meet, and consequently 
in a right line with the top of the nose, he must 
probe both nostrils; when, should he miss the bulb 
on the one side, he will be sure to hit it on the 
other. If the seat of the disease cannot at all be 
found, and if the animal have all the symptoms of 
the malady, the water is then enclosed among the 
ventricles in the middle of the brain, and must be 
treated as above. Xothing can be done in the last 
rase, save with the wire; but it is hard to cure 
them when so affected. I have found, on dissec- 
tion, the fluid contained in many little cells in the 
centre of the brain; and though the wire had pene- 
trated some of those cells, it had missed others. 

By this simple operation alone, 1 have cured 
hundreds; and though I never kept an exact regis- 
ter, I think 1 have not ktwwn it to fail above once 
in four times at an average, in all the instances 
■which have come under my observation; and some 
of these I knew to he injudiciously performed, 
the disease not being seated in a point which the 
' 'wire could reach. I have at times cured a dozen, 
and ten, in regular succession, without failing once, 
and I have again, in some cold seasons of the 
year, killed three or four successively. 

Sir George M'Kenzie has insinuated, in hisbook 
on sheep, that I was the inventor of this mode of 
cure — but it is by no means the case. The prac- 
tice, I understand, has been in use among shep- 
herds for ages past; but thev were often obliged 
to perform it privately, their masters, like the pro- 
fessors about Edinburgh, always arguing, that the 
giercing of the brain must necessarily prove fatal. 
ir George has, however, misunderstood my ac- 
count in this matter in the Higland Society's 
Transactions; I did not mean to insinuate th~t it 
was with pleasure I discovered the art of curing 
them in this way, but only my success in that art. 
I mentioned in these Transactions, that when I was 
a shepherd boy, for a number of years I probed 
the skull of every slurdied sheep that I could lay my 
hands on, without any regard to whom they belong- 
ed, and likewise took every opportunity of visiting 
my patients as often as possible; and as the coun- 
try around me swarmed with them every spring 
and summer, ray practice, of course, was of pro- 
digious extent. It was several years before 1 was 
sensible of failing in one instance, which, howev- 
er, it was often impossible to ascertain, they hav- 
ing left tlie spot sometimes, before I could again 
go that way: but many a valuable young sheep I 
cured to diftisrent owners, without ever acknow- 



ledging it, having no authority to try such expen- 
meiits. 

The follo'-ving symptoms, after the operation, 
may be depended rn. If the animal becomes con- 
siderably sick, it is a good sign that it will reco- 
ver. If it continues to grow sicker, and abstains 
from feeding for the space of two days, it is likely 
to die; and, if in a condition to be 'fit for family 
use, ought to be killed forthwith. The flesh of 
the animal is nothing the worse for this disease; on 
the contrary, it is universally supposed by the 
country people, that their flesh is sweeter, more 
delicate and palatable, tl in any other. This, I 
suppose, must be owing to their tender age, it being 
unusual to kill any sheep so young, save lambs. 

The first symptom of recovery is their bleating. 
If once they begin to bleat occasionally, they are 
sure to recover, however stuyjid they maj appear at 
that time. It seems that they are then becoming 
sensible of the want of society, the only thing which 
causes sheep to bleat, and which, for a long time 
previous to that, they had totally disregarded. 

I 'must mention here, that the most successful 
curer of this distemper I ever knew, performed the 
operation in a different manner from the one prac- 
tised by me, and above recommended. Instead of 
a wire, he carried always a large corking-pin in 
his bonnet; and, like me, tapped every sturdied 
sheep he found, but always above, putting the point 
of the pin through the skull at the place where it 
was most soft, in the same manner as the trocar is 
used. As this does not at all endanger the sheep's 
life, I frequently tried this plan previous to that of 
probing with the wire; but, as far as I can recollect, 
I never cured one by that means. I remember of 
once conversing with him on the subject, when he 
tolJ me that he seldom or never failed of curing 
them upon their own farms; but that, in sundry 
neighbouring farms, he rarely cured any. From 
this, it would appear that, on different soils, the 
animals are diff^erently affected, I am now con- 
vinced that he must generally have inserted the 
pin so far as to penetrate the bottom of the sac, 
which I never had the sense to try, and which, if 
we reason from analogy, must prove as effective, 
and less hazardous than the other: for, it appears 
to me that, in order to ensure a recovery, it is ne- 
cessary that the bottom, or lowest part of the sac, be 
penetrated. 

Undoubtedly, the best mode of curing this dis- 
ease would be to extract the sac, and all that it 
contains, entirely. There is little doubt that, if this 
were performed by gentle and skilful hands, it 
would prove the most effectual cure; but as it is, I 
can attest that it seldom proves successful. The 
thepherds have not skill and ingenuity sufficient to 
close the skull properly up again, or sort it in such 
a manner as Is requisite to defend it from external 
inj'.iry; of course, I would rather recommend the 
mode in which they cannot easily go wrong, and 
which I have seen prove most beneficial, when per- 
formed by men of like acquirements of themselves. 
— Fanner^s Magazine. 
To prevent the ^^ sturdy,'''' orivater in the heads of 



With regard to the causes inducing water in the 
head of sheep, there is but one opinion entertained 
among shepherds, which is, that it is occasioned by 
a chilliness in the oacK^f t'«e animal, on account 
of its being exposed to the winds, and the sleety 
showers of winter. These cause it to acquire a 
kind -f numbness and torpidity, M'hicti, if often re- 
peated, are apt to terminate in an afi^ection to gid- 
diness, and finally in a water in the bead. 

That the disease is occasioned solely by a chil- 
liness in the back, appears from the following 
facts; 



278 



UOTVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



1. It is always most general after a windy and 
sleety winter. 

2. It is always most destructive on farms that 
are ill-sheltered, and on which the sheep are most 
exposed to those blasts and showers. 

3. It preys only on sheep rising their first year, 
the wool of whom separates above, leaving the back 
quite exposed to the wet and to the cold. 

4. If a piece of cloth or hide is sewed to the 
wool, so as to cover the back, such a sheep will not 
be iitfected with the disease. The experiment is a 
safe, a cheap, and an easy one; and, exclusive of 
its good eifects in preventing the fatal disease un- 
der consideration, it is the most beneficial to a 
young sheep that is not over high in eonditioii, 
and administers the most *o its comfort during the 
winter, of sny other that I know. It keeps the wool 
from opening, and the sheep always dry and warm 
in the back; which, exposed to cold, either in man 
or beast, it is well known, affects the vitals mate- 
rially. When thus shielded, the young sheep will 
feed straight in the wind on the worst days, with- 
out injury, and, indeed, without much regarding 
the weather. This covering keeps them from the 
rain, prevents them from being shelled and loaded 
with frozen snow, and from destruction by cold, 
by leanness, and the water in the head. The ex- 
pense attending it is so trifling, that it is scarcely 
worth mentioning. One pair of old blankets of 
the value of four or five shillings, will furnish 
coats for forty sheep; and if these are carefully 
taken off on the return of spring, and laid aside, 
they w ill serve the same purpose for two or three 
successive years. 

Practice of the Spanish shepherds. 

The first care of the shepherd on coming to the 
spot where his sheep are to spend the summer, is 
to give to his ewes as much salt as they will eat. 
For this purpose he is provided with 25 quintals of 
salt for every thousand head, which is consumed 
in less than five months, but they eat none on their 
journey, or in winter. The method of giving it to 
Ihem is as follows: — The shepherd places fifty or 
sixty flat stones about five steps distance from each 
other; he strews salt upon each stone, then leads 
Ms flock slowly through the stones, and every 
sheep eats »t pleasure. This is frequently repeat- 
ed, observing not to let them eat on those days in 
any spot where there is limestone. When they 
have eaten the salt, they are led to some argilla- 
ceous spots, where, from the craving they have 
acquired, they devour every thing they meet with, 
and return again to the salt with redoubled ardour. 

Cure of dropsy in the crops of young turkeys. 

This kind of dropsy is announced by a dull look, 
paleness of the head, loss of appetite, and aver- 
sion to food. The birds allow themselves to be 
approached and seized with facility, and they are 
without strength. Very soon a slight swelling of 
the crop is added to these symptoms, which, in 
ten days, becomes very considerable. I have taken 
nearly a pint of water from one. By pressing upon 
the crops of some of them, a certain quantity of 
matter is discharged by the bill, but never enough 
entirely tp ease the crop. All these symptoms in- 
crease, and the bird dies at the end of 15 or 18 
days' illness. 

I sought after the cause of this disorder, and it 
was easy to find that it was occasioned by the stag- 
nant water of which these animals had drunk; in 
the course of the year the heat had been great, and 
ihere was little rain. The heat had hatched ri vast 
swarm of small red worms, resembling ascarides. 
It is quite certain that these insects must have been 
swallowed by the turkeys, and from this cause, and 
the bad quality of the water which they had drunk, 
a great degree of iuflammation in the crop would 



ensue, with a stoppage of the passage which con- 
ducts to the gizzard. I divided the turkeys into 
two cla.ses; for those who were still sound I or- 
dered grain and good water; with aJ that were dis- 
eased I practised the oper»tion of tapping with a 
lancet, in the lowest part of the crop. I injected 
at the opening, by means of a small syringe, a 
slight decoction of Jesuit's bark, mixed with a lit- 
tle brandy; which was repeated twice in the course 
of the day. Next day the wound was better 
marked. I made again the same injection, and, 
two hours after, 1 forced them to eat a little of the 
yolk of an egg, mixed with some crumbs of bread. 
At the end of three days, the wound in the crop 
was closed, which I might have prevented, but 
finding a natural opening in the bill, I made them 
take, during eight days, in their drink the same 
substance which had been injected; and they were, 
by degrees, put on their usual diet. I need not 
add, that clear water was given them instead of 
that of the standing pools. Ten of these animals 
had died before my arrival; two perished during 
the treatment, and the rest of the flock, which 
might be about fo-ty, eiti.er escaped the disease 
or were cured. — JH. Ligneau. 

To cure colds of evei^y descnption in catile. 
The first attempt should be to remove the cause, 
by giving to the animal a warm cordial drink; 
which, acting as a stimulant on the stomach and 
intestines, will give fresh motion to these pai-ts, 
and enable nature to resume her former course. 

Take of aniseeds, caraway seeds, grains of para- 
dise, and fenugreek, each 2 oz. in powder. Mix 
them together for one drink. 

Another. — Take of sweet fennel-seeds, and cum- 
min-seeds, each 2 oz. in powJer, long pepper, tur- 
meric, ginger, and Enula Campana (elecampane), 
each 1 ounce, in powder. Mix for one drink. 

The method of giving either of these drinks is 
as follows: — Take one and put it into a pitcher 
with 2 oz. of fresh butter, and 2 table-spoonsful of 
treacle or coarse sugar; then pour one quart of 
boiling ale upon the whole; cover them down till 
new-milk warm, and then give the drink to the beast. 
In two hours after giving the drink, let the ani- 
mal have a good mash made of scalded bran, or 
ground malt, with a handful or two of ground oats 
or barley meal added to \t, and warm water that 
day. In slight colds during the summer, these 
drinks may be given to cattle while in their pas- 
ture: and, where it can be made convenient, let 
them fast two hours after, and then graze as usual. 
It is also necessary to examine the sick animals 
every day, to watch them while they both dung 
and stale, and to see w hether the body be of a pro- 
per heat, and the nose or rauzzel of a natural 
breeze. 

If these be regular, there is not much danger. 
If, however, feverish symptoms should appear, 
(which frequently happen), the animal will be- 
come costive. In such cases give one of the fol- 
lowmg: 

Purging drink. 
Take of Glauber salts, 1 lb. ginger, in powder, 

2 oz. treacle, 4 oz. 

Put all the ingredients into a pitcher, and pour 

3 pints of boiling water upon them. When new- 
milk warm, give the whole for one dose. 

Anol.her. — Take of Epsom salts, I lb. aniseeds 
and ginger, in powder, each 2 oz. treacle, 4 oz. 

I^ct this be given, in the same manner as the pre- 
ceding. 

In most cases these drinks will be sufficient to 
purge a full grown animal of this kind. By strict 
attention to the above method of application, a fe- 
ver may be prevented, and the animal speedily 
restored. 



FARRIERY. 



27:0 



If the fever continue, after the intestines have 
been evacuated (which is seldom the case), it will 
be proper to take some blood from the animal, and 
the quantity must be regulated according to the 
disease and liabit of body. 

7*0 cure the yellows or jaundice in neat cattle. 

As soon as tiiis disease makes its first appear- 
ance, it may, for the most part, be removed by ad- 
ministering the following drink: 

Reduce to powder cummin seeds, aniseeds, and 
turmeric root, each 2 oz. grains of p radise, and 
salt of tartar, each, 1 oz. 

Now slice 1 oz. of Castille soap, and mix it with 

2 oz. of treacle; put the whole into a pitcher, then 
pour a quart of boiling ale upon the ingredients, 
and cover them down till new-milk warm, then 
give the driuk. It will often be proper to repeat 
this, two or three times, every other day, or of- 
tener if required. If the beast be in good condi- 
tion, take away from two to three quarts of blood; 
but the animal should not be turned out after 
bleeding that day, nor at night, but the morning 
following it may go to its pasture as usual. After 
this has had the desired effect, let the following be 
given: 

Take of balsam of copaiva, 1 oz. salt of tartar, 
1 oz. Castille soap, 2 oz. Beat them together in 
a marble mortar; and add of valerian root, in pow- 
der, 2 oz. ginger root and Peruvian bark, in pow- 
der, each 1 oz. treac' :, 2 oz. 

Mix for one drink. 

Let this drink be given in a quart of warm gru- 
el, and repeated if necessary every other day. It 
will be proper to keep the body sufficiently open 
through every stage of the disease; for if costive- 
ness be permitted, the fever will increase, and if 
not timely removed, the disorder will terminate 
fatally. 

Frenzy, or inflammation of the brain, 

Is sometitres occasioned by wounds or contu- 
sions in the head, th^t are attended with violent 
inflammations of the vessels, and if not speedily 
relieved, may terminate in a gangrene or a morti- 
fication, which is very often the case, and that in a 
few days. 

Method of cure. 

In the cure of this disease, the following method 
must be attended to:— First lessen the quantity of 
blood by frequent bleeding, which may be repeat- 
ed daily if required, and by which the great efflu.x: 
of blood upon the temporal arteries will be lessen- 
ed and much retarded. The following purgative 
drink will be found suitable for this disease, and 
likewise for most fevers of an inflammatory na- 
ture. 

Take of Glauber salts, 1 lb. tartarized antimo- 
ny, I "rachm, camphor, 2 drachms, treacle, 4 oz. 

Mix, and put the whole into a pitcher, and pour 

3 pints of boiling water upon them. 

When new-milk warm add laudanum, half an 
ounce, and give it all for one dose. 

This drink will in general operate briskly in the 
space of 20 or 24 hours; if not, let one half of the 
quantity be given to the beast every night and 
morning, until the desired effect be obtained. 
To cure hoven or blown in cattle. 

This complaint is in general occasioned by the 
animal feeding for a considerable time upon rich 
succulent food, so that the stomach becomes over- 
charged, and they, through their greediness to eat, 
torget to lie down to ruminate or chew their cud. 
Thus the paunch or first stomach is rendered inca- 
pable of expelling its contents; a concoction and 
fermentation take place in the stomach, by which 
a large quantity of confined air is formed in the 
part that extends nearly to the anus, and for want 
of vent at tliat part, causes the animal to swell 



even to a state of suffocation, or a rupture of some 
part of the stomach or intestines ensues. As sud- 
den death is the consequence of this, the greatest 
caution is necessary in turning cattle into a fresh 
pasture, if the bite or grass be considerable; nor 
should they be suffered to stop too long at a time 
in such pastures before they are removed into a 
fold yard, or some close where there is but little 
to eat, in order that the organs ot rumination and 
digestion may have time to discharge their func- 
tions. 

If this be attended to several times, it will take 
away that greediness of disposition, and prevent 
this distressing complaint. 

Treatment. 

As soon as the beast is discovered to be either 
hoven or blown, by eating too great a quantity of 
succulent grasses, let a purging drink De given; 
this will, for the most part, check fermentation ia 
the stomach, and in a very short time force a pas- 
sage through the intestines. 

Paunching. 

This is a method frequently resorted to in dan- 
gerous cases. The operation is performed in the 
following manner: — Take a sharp pen-knife and 
gently introduce it into the paunch between the 
haunch bone and the last rib on the left side. 1 his 
will instantly give vent to a large quantity of fetid 
air; a small tube of a sufficient length may then 
be introduced into the wound, and remain until 
the air is sufficiently evacuated; afterwards, take 
out the tube, and lay a pitch plaster over the ori- 
fice. Wounds of this kind are seldom attended 
with danger; where it has arisen, it has been oc- 
casioned by the injudicious operator introducing 
his knife into a wrong part. After the wind is ex- 
pelled, and the body has been reduced to its na- 
tural state, give the following 

Cordial drink. 

Take aniseeds, diapente, and elecampane, in 
powder, each 2 ounces, tincture of rhubarb, 2 
ounces, sweet spirits of nitre, 1 ounce, treacle, 4 
table-spoonsful. 

Mix and give it in a quart of warm ale or gruel 

This drink may be repeated every other day foi 
2 or 3 times. 

Another. — ^I'ake aniseeds, grains of paradise, 
and cummin-seeds, each 2 ounces, in powder, spi- 
rits of turpentine, 2 table-spoonsful, sweet spirits 
of nitre, 1 oz. treacle, 2 table-spoonsful. 

Mix and give them in a quart of warm ale of 
gruel. 

This may he repeated once a day for two or tiiree 
times. 

To cure s^dmmlng m the head. 

This disease mostly attacks animals that have 
been kept in a state of poverty and starvation dur- 
ing the winter season; and which have in the spring 
of the year been admitted into a fertile pasture: 
hence is produced a redundancy of blood and other 
fluids, pressing upon the contracted vessels, while 
the animal economy, on the other hand, is using 
its utmost endeavour to restore reduced nature to 
its original state. If it is not checked in its infan- 
cy by bleeding, evacuaiing, &c. inflammation in all 
probability must take place; in which case the 
beast is attended with all the symptoms of one that 
is raving mad. 

The cure must first he attempted betaking from 
two to three or four quarts of blood from the a..i- 
mal, according to size and strength; two zv three 
hours after give a purging drink. 

Purging is very necessary in this disease, as well 
as in all others of an inflammatory kind; for other- 
wise it will be impossible to check its progress: 
I and as soon as this is effected, tlie foilowJL.g may 
' be given: 



280 



UNIVERSAL RECKIPT BOOK. 



Sudorific drink for tlie same. 

Take of tartar emetic, 1 drachm, volatile salt, 
and camphor, each 2 drachms in powder, nitre, 
and cream of tartar in powder, each 1 oz. treacle, 
4 table-spoonsful. 

Mix and put them in a pitcher, with a quart of 
not gruel, then stir the whole together and give it 
■when new milk warm. 



It will be necessary to repeat this drink twice a 
day, until the symptoms begin to abate: afterward8> 
once a day will be sufficient. But so long as the 
fe\er continues to be attended with delirious symp- 
toms, it will be proper to take from one to two 
or three quarts of blood from the auiraal ewr« 
two or three days. 



AND THE TREATMENT OF LEATHER. 



To tan fades or skins. 

There are many vegetable substances which pos- 
sess the tanning principle: but the chief are the 
oak, alder, valonea, larch, willow, and Peru- 
vian barks. The latter from its high value is only 
used in Medicine; oak bark, from its plentiful sup- 
ply, and the strength of its astringent juices, may 
he properly termed the staple article of the tanning 
business; this bai-k is ground into coarse shreds in 
a mill from which a decoction or liquor is made, 
called ooze, into which the hides or skins, after 
being properly cleared of their extraneous filth and 
juicy redundancies, are immersed, and first sub- 
jected to the action of a weak decoction of tan, in 
which , stage they remain, according to their 
Strength and size, from a fortnight to several 
weeks, during which th^y are frequently handled, 
to createvA more kindly incorporation between the 
vegetable and animal juices, from thence they are 
removed to a vat containing a stronger infusion of 
bark, where they remain a considerable time, until 
they have absorbed all the tan; they are then im- 
mersed in a still stronger infusion of this liquor, 
and frequently taiien out to be handled as before: 
if it is perceived that the liquor does not operate 
upon them with sufficient effect, a plentiful sprin- 
kle of dry bark is thrown betwixt every layer of 
hides, and as soon as the outside and internal parts 
assume a good healthy brown colour, they may be 
said to be converted into leather. Calf skins re- 
quire, according to their size, from 2 to 3 months 
in tanning: cow hides 6 months, and strong ox 
hides from 9 to 12 months. 

The article of valonea, a most powerful vegeta- 
ble astringent, has become a great favourite with 
tanners of late years; it is allowed to give the 
leather more weight than oak bark, but it produces 
a dulness of colour in the article tanned with it: at 
the same time it is the finest basis for blacks the 
dyers possess. The bark of the larch fir gives to 
leather a most beautiful bloom, and since it has 
been proved equal to the tannage of heavy hides, 
is likely to become the best substitute for oak bark. 
7'o tan -Mthout bark or mineral astringents. 

This method does not differ from that in general 
use, except in the saving of time and expense, and 
ti.e preparation of the astringent liquor. The 
hides and skins, previous to their being put into 
the liquor, are plunged into a preparation of bran 
and water for two days. The asti-ingent liquor is 
composed of 17 gallons of water, ^ lb. of Aleppo 
galls, 5 lbs. of tormentil, or septfsil root, and 1^ 
oz. of Bengal catechu. The galls, ike. are to be 
finely powdered, and boiled in the water a certain 



time, and when cool, the skins are to be put m, 

and handled frequently during the first three days, 
afterwards to remain two or three days; then to be 
handled two, three, or more times in one day, and 
finally to remain undisturbed for 25 days, when the 
process is completed. 

This improved method Ol tanning will produce 
a saving of 50 per cent, in monej"^, and at least two 
months in time. 

Improvement in tanning. 

The trunk, roots, limbs, branches, and leaves of 
the oak, whether tree, pollard, coppice, or under- 
wood, possess tanning properties in a sufficient 
quantitj" to be employed with advantage for tanning, 
by reducing them to chips or saw-dust, and theit 
boiling and using them in the following way: 
To tan calf or other thin skins. 

Put 1 cwt. of the limbs oi" branches, chopped as 
above, into a copper containing about 60 gallons 
of water, and boil till the water be reduced to 
from 35 to 40 gallons: draw off the decoction. 

Now add to the same limbs or branches 40 gal- 
lons of water, and agam boil till the water be re- 
duced to about 25 gallons. The liquor thus pro- 
duced by the second boiling is used as a weak ooze, 
in the first process of immersing the calf skins 
after they come from the scouring beam. The 
decoction first produced, is then to be used in the 
same way. 

To tan hides. 

Take 1 cwt. of the limbs or branches, f cwt. of 
oak saw-dust, (the sooner after being made the 
better,) and ^ cwt. of the root; boil in 80 galls, of 
water, till reduced to from 50 to 60 gallons. Draw 
off the decoction, and put it aside for use. To the 
materials left in the copper add 60 gallons tf water 
and again boil, till i-educed to from 30 to 35 gal- 
lons. The liquor produced by this second boiling 
is to be employed in the first stage of tanning hides 
after tliey come from the beam; and afterwards the 
decoction first produced is to be employed. The 
skin and hides having undergone the before-men- 
tioned process, add as much oak bark, or tan-li- 
quor, or both, to the respective decoctions, as is 
necessary to complete the tanning. The quantity 
of each will vary according to the strength of such 
decoctions; which strength will depend on the age 
and size of the tree, and other circumstances. ' 

Another. — As soon as tlie wool or hair is pulleif 
or taken off, let the hide or skin be dipped into 
water and undergo the operation of fleshing. It 
should then bedipped again into water,and undergo 
the operation called skudding; after which it wiU 
be IP a state fi* to be tanned, tawed, or dressed. 



TANNING. 



281 



This process occupies much less time, and occa- 
Stons less labour and expense, than that in general 
practice, which consists in immersing the skins in 
lime-pits, for several weeks, to be afterwards 
drenched and purified. 

JVeta process of tanning'. 

Oak saw-dust and slips of oak, cut thin, and 
even the leaves of that tx-ee, contain a sufficient 
quantity of the tanning principle, to recommend 
it as advantageous in the manufacturing of leather. 
To tan calf and sheep skins, or other light articles, 
take 100 lbs. of thin oak slips, boil them in 60 
gallons of water reduced to '40, leave it to depose, 
and then decant it; afterwards pour 40 gallons of 
fresh water on the residue and boil it till reduced 
to 25 gallons, immerse the skin into the last decoc- 
tion, after receiving the accustomed preparations, 
then put them into the liquor first prepared, and 
let them remain till fully saturated witii the search- 
ing powers of the vegetable liquid. 

To convert slicep skins into leather. 

Sheep skins, which are used for a variety of pur- 
poses, such as gloves, book covers, &c. a. id which, 
■when dyed, are converted into mock Morocco 
leather, are dressed as follows: — They are first to 
be soaked in water and handled, to separate all 
impurities, which may be scraped oft" by a blunt 
knife on a beam. They are then to be hung up in 
a close warm room to putrefy. This putrefaction 
loosens the wool, and causes the exudation of an 
oily and sliray matter, all which are to be re .aoved 
by the knife. The skins are now to be steeped in 
milk of lime, to harden and thicken; here they 
remain for a month or 6 weeks, according to cir- 
cumstances, and when taken out, they are to be 
smoothed on the fleshy side by a sharp knife. They 
are now to be steeped in a bath of bran and water, 
where they undergo a partial fermentation, and 
become thinner in iheir substance. 

The skins, which are now called pelts, are to be 
immersed in a solution of alum and common salt 
in water; iu the proportion of 120 skins to 3 lbs. 
of alum and 5 lbs. of salt. Tliey are to be much 
agitated iu this compound saline bath, in order to 
become firm and tough. From this bath they are 
to be removed to another, composed of bran and 
water, where they remain until quite i)liant by a 
slight fermentation. To give their upper surfaces 
q gloss, they ari, to be trodden in a wooden tub, 
with a solution of yolks of eggs in water, previ- 
ously well beaten up. When this solution has 
become transparent, it is a proof that the skins 
have absorbed the glazing matter. The pelt may 
now be said to be convened into leather, which is 
to be drained from moisture, hung upon hooks in 
a warm apartment to dry, and smoothed over with 
warm hand-irons. 

To prepare sheep leat/ier for various elegant pur- 
poses, by dyeing. 

The skins, when taken from the lime-bath, are 
immersed in one composed of dog and pigeon 
dung, dissolved by agitation in water: here they 
remain until the lime is separated, and until the 
skins have attained tlie state of soft pliable pelt. 
To dye this pelt red, the skins are to be washed 
and sewed into bags, and stuffed with clippings 
and shavings of leather, or any other convenient 
substance; end immersed, with the grain side out- 
wards, in a bath of alum and cochineal, of the 
temperature of 170 or 180 degrees Fahr. wliere 
they are to be agitated until they are sufficiently 
dyed. Each bag is r.ow to be transferred to a 
suraarh bath, where they receive consistency and 
tenacity. From this bath it is customary to remove 
the skins, and to plunge them into a saffron one, 
to improve their colour. 

To dye these skins black, the washed pelt is to 
2 L 



be first immersed in the sumach bath, and then to 
be rubbed over on the grained side, by a stiff brush 
dipped in a solution of acetate, or pyrolignite of 
iron. 

To give these skins the grain and polish of Mo- 
rocco leather, they are first oiled, and then rubbed 
on a firm board, by a convex piece of solid glass, 
to which a handle is attached. The leather being 
now rendered more compact, is rubbed or pressed 
hard, by a sharply grooved boxwood instrument, 
shaped like the glass one just described. 

Lamb and kid skins are dressed, tanned, and 
dyed in a similar manner. 

To manufacture real Morocco leatJier. 

Goat skins are cleansed by soaking them in 
water, have their hair removed, and are lined as 
in the before-mentioned processes. They then un- 
dergo a partial fermentation, by a batti of bran and 
water, and are afterwards immersed in another bath 
of white figs and water, where ihey remain for five or 
six days. It is now necessary to dip them in a so- 
lution of salt and water, to fit them for dyeing. 
To communicate a red colour, the alum and cochi- 
neal bath is to be used as for sheep skins; for 
black, sumach, and iron liquor as before; and for 
yellow, the bath is to be composed of alum and 
the pomegranate bark. 

The tanning, dressing, and graining are the 
same as for sheep skins. 

Original method. 

The skins being first dried in the air, are steeped 
in water three days and nights; then stretched on a 
tanner's horse, beaten with a large knife, and 
steeped afresh in water every day; lliey are then 
ihiv/wn into a large vat on the ground, full of wa- 
ter, where quicklime has been slaked, and there lie 
15 days, whence they are taken, and again returned 
every night and morning. They are next thrown 
into a fresh vat of lime and water, and shifted 
night and morning for 15 days longer; then rinsed 
in clean water, and the hair t»ken oft on the leg 
with the knife, r'^turned into a third vat, and shift- 
ed as before for 18 days; steeped twelve hours in 
a river, taken out, rinsed, put in pails, where they 
are pounded with wooden pestles, changing the 
water twice; then laid on the horse, and the fiesh 
taken off; returned into pails of new water, taken 
out, and the hair-side scraped; returned into fresh 
pails, taken out, and thrown into a pail of a parti- 
cular form, having holes at bottom; here they are 
beaten for the space of an hour, and fresh water 
poured on from time to time; then being stretched 
on the leg, and scraped on either side, they are re- 
turned into pails of fresh water, taken out, stretch- 
ed, and sewed up all round, in the manner of 
bags, leaving out the hinder legs, as an aperture 
for the conveyance of a mixture described below. 

The skins thus sewed are put to luke-warm wa- 
ter, where dog's excrements have been dissolved 
Here they are stirred with long poles for half ai 
hour, left at rest for twelve hours, taken out, riiiset) 
in fresh water, and filled by a »unnel with a prepa- 
ration of water and sumach, mixed and heated ovei 
the fire till ready to boil; and, as they are filled, 
the hina legs are sewed up to stop the passage. Iu 
this state they are let down into the vessel of wa- 
ter and sumach, and kept stirring for four hours 
successively; taken out and heaped on one another: 
after a little time their sides ate changed, and thus 
they continue an hour and a half till drained. This 
done, they are loosened, and filled a second time 
{. with the same preparaiioc, sewed up again, and 
' Ke^t stirring two hours, piled up and drained as 
before. This process is again repeated, with this 
difterence, that they are then only stirred a quar- 
ter of an hour; after which they are left till 
next mornins;, when they are taken out, drained ou 



;a2 



UJVIA'^ERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



a rack, unsewed, the sumach taken out, folded in 
two from head to tail, the hair-side outwards, laid 
over each other on the leg, to perfect their drain- 
ing, stretched out and dried: then trampled under 
foot by two and two, stretched on a wooden table, 
what flesh and sumach remains scraped oft', the 
hair-side rubbed over with oil, and that again with 
water. 

They are then wrung Avith the hands, stretched, 
and pressed tight on the table with an iron instru- 
ment like that of a currier, the flesh-side upper- 
most; then turned, and the hair-side rubbed strongly 
over wltli a handful of rushes, to squeeze out as 
much of the oil remaining as possible. Tiie first 
coat of black is now Inid on the hair-side, by 
means of a lock of hair twisted and steeped in a 
kind of black dye, prepared of sour beer, where- 
in pieces of old rusty iron have been thrown. 
When half-dried in the air, they are stretched on 
a table, rubbed over every way with a paumelle, or 
■wooden-toothed instrument, to raise the grain, 
over which is passed a light couche of water, then 
sleeked by rubbing them with rushes prepared for 
the purpose. Thus sleeked, they have a second 
couche of black, then dried, laid on the table, rub- 
bed over with a paumelle of cork, to raise the grain 
again; and after a light couche of wr.ter, sleeked 
over anew; and to raise the grain a third time, a 
paumelle of wood is used. 

After the hair-side lias received all its prepara- 
tions, the flesh-side is pared with a sharp knite 
for the purpose; the hair-side is strongly rubbed 
over with a woollen cap, having before given it 
a gloss with barberries, citron, or orange. The 
whole is finished by raising the grain lightly, for 
the last time, with the paumelle of cork; so that 
they are now fit for the maiket. 

To prepare red morocco. 

After steeping, stretching, scraping, beating, 
and rinsing the skins as before, they are at length 
IV rung, stretched on the leg, and passed after each 
other into water where alum h"S been dissolved. 
Thus aluraed, they are left to drain till morning, 
then wrung out, pulled on the leg, and folded from 
head to tail, the flesh inwards. 

In this state they receive their first dye, by 
passing them after one another into a red liquor, 
described hereafter. This is repeated again and 
again, till the skins have got their first colour; then 
they are rinsed in clean water, stretched on the 
leg, and left to di^iiu 12 hours; thrown into water 
through a sieve, and stirred incessantly for a day 
with long poles; taken out, hung on a bar across tlie 
water all night, white agaiust red, and red against 
white, and in the morning the water stirred up, 
and the skins I'eturned 'nto it for 24 hours. 
Ingredients for the red colour. 

The following is the quantity and proportions of 
the ingredients required for the red colour, for a 
parcel of thirty-six skins: 

Cochineal, 130 drachms, round suchet (crocus 
indicus), 45 do.; grUa gamba, 15 do.; gum arable, 
10 do.; white alum pulverized, 10 do.; bark of the 
^pomegranate tree, 10 do.; citron juice, 2 do.; com- 
mon water, 1'20 lbs. 

The alum is gradually added to the other arti- 
cles, and boiled in a copper for about two hours, 
till one-tenth part of the water be consumed. 
To inaiiufacture leat/.jr in irrdlation of Morocco, 
Jrom South American horse hides. 

Soften the hides in water; then spread it on a 
tanner's beam, and let it be wrought with a knife 
on the flesh side, and subjected to the action of lime 
water. In the succeeding process it is treated as 
goat-skins for making morocco, i. e. put it into hot 
water, with dog's dung, to purity the animal juices; 
then let it be again wrought with a knife on both 



sides, on a tanner's beam; afterwards pnt it mtc 
blood-warm water with bran; and, finally, tan it 
with srmach. 

7'o mannfacttire Hiissia leathv. 

Calf-skins steeped in a weak bath of carbonate 
of potass and water, ai-e well cleaned and scraped, 
to have the hair. Sec. removed. They are now 
immersed in another bath, containing dog and pi- 
geon's dung in water. Being thus freed from the 
alkali, they are thrown into a mixture of oatmeal 
and water,' to undergo a slight fermentation. To 
tan these hides, it is necessary to use birch bark 
instead of oak bark; and during the operation they 
are to be frequently handled or agitated. When 
tanned, and perfectly dry, they are made pliable 
by oil and much friction; they are then to be rub- 
bed over gently with birch tar, which gives them 
that agreeable odour peculiar to this kind of lea- 
ther, and which secures them against the attacks ol 
moths and worms. This odour will jireserve the 
leather for many years; and, on account of it, Rus- 
sia leather is much used in binding handsome and 
costly bv/oks. The marks, or intersecting lines on 
this leather, are given to it, by passing over its 
grained surface a heavy iron cylinder, bound round 
by wires. 
Use of the wood and bark of the horse-chesnut tree. 

The bark of the horse-chesnut tree contains 
twice the quantity of tanning principle as that of 
the oak, and nearly twice as much colouring mat- 
ter as the best Campeachy logwood: its colouring 
matter is to that of Campeachy exactly as 18 5 7 
is to 1. 

The leather manufactured from it is firmer, 
more solid and flexible, than that from the oak. 
Besides, what renders it particularly valuable is, 
it contains a most powerful basis for black dyes 
and ink. Mixed with iron of copperas it changes 
to a bluish black. Its liquor, extracted by boiling, 
appears blue like indigo, but it produces on paper a 
most excellent black. In dyeing it possesses more 
aflinity with wool than .amach; and its extracted 
colour contains that rare virtue in a dye, perma- 
nency of colour. 

To tan or dress skins in -white for gloves. 

Clean the skins from wool or hair, by laying^ 
them in a vat of slaked lime water for 5 or 6 
weeks. During this operation th"* lime and wpter 
are to be twice changed, and the skins are to be 
shifted every day, and when taken out for good, 
tliey are to be laid all night in a running water, to 
clear them from the forcing qualities of the lime: 
next lay them on a wooden leg by sixes, to get the 
flesh off; then they are to be laid in a vat with a 
little water, and to be fulled with wooden pestles 
for a quarter of an hour, after which rinse them 
well in a full vat of water; place them next on a 
clean pavement to drain, and afterwards cast them 
into a fresh pit of water, rinse them again, and re- 
lay them on the wooden leg, with their hair out- 
side, over which a whetstone is to be briskly 
rubbed, to fit them for further preparations. 
They are next to be put into a pit of water, mixed 
with wheaten bran, and stirred until the bran 
sticks to the wooden poles. They now arrive 
to a kind of fermentation, and as often as they rise 
on the top of the water, are to be ])lunged down; 
at the same time the liquor, now iiighly I'ermented, 
is to be fined. When the skins have done rising, 
take them out, and scrape away the bran with a 
knife on the leg: when "ufliciently drained give 
them their feeding. For 100 large sheep skins, 
take 8 lbs. of alum, and 3 lbs. of sea-salt, and 
melt the whole with water in a vessel. Pour the 
solution out, while lukewarm, into a trough in 
whica is 20 lbs. of the finest wheat flour, with the 
yolk of 8 dozen of eggs, of which mixed materials 



TANNING. 



283 



is formed a kind of p<;ste, somewhat thicker than 
children's pap: next pour hot water into tb^ trough 
where the paste was, mixing two spoonsful of the 
paste with it, with a wooden spoon, which will 
contain a sufficiency for 12 skins, and when the 
whole is well incorporated, put 2 dozen of the 
skins into it, taking care tliat the water is not too hot. 
After they have been in some time, take them se- 
verally out of the trough, and stretch tliem twice 
well out. After they have absorbed the paste, put 
them intotubs, and full as before. Let them lie in 
a vat 6 days, and hang them out to dry; in fair wea- 
ther, on cords or racks. When dry, put them into 
bundles, just dipped in clean water, and drained; 
throw them into an empty tub, and having lain 
some time they are to be taken out and tiampled 
under .'oot; hang them up a second time on the 
cords to dry, and finally smooth them upon a table 
ready for sale. 

To prepare sheep, goat, or kid-skins in oil, in 

imitation of chamois. 

Sheep skills. 

The skins, smeared with quick-lime on the 
fleshy side, are folded lengthways, the wool out- 
wards, and laid on heaps, to ferment 8 days; or if 
they had been left to dry after flaying, for nfteen 
days. 

Then they are washed out, drained, and half 
dried, laid on a wooden horse, the wool stripped 
off with a round staff for the purpose, and laid in 
a weak pit of slaked lime. 

After twenty-four hours they are taken out, and 
left to drain 24 more; then put into another strong 
pit. Then they are taken out, drained, and put in 
again by turns; which begins to dispose them to 
take oil; and this practice they continue for 6 
weeks in summer, or 3 months in winter; at the 
end whereof they are washed out, laid on the wood- 
en horse, and the surface of the skin on the wool 
side peeled oft", to render them the softer; then 
made into parcels, steeped a night in liie river, in 
winter more; stretched 6 or 7, one over another on 
the wooden horse; and the knife passed sti-ongly 
on the fleshy side, to take ofl" any thing superfluous, 
and render the skin smooth. 

Then they are stretched, as before, in the river, 
and the same operation repeated on the wool side; 
then thrown into a tub of water and bran, whJch is 
brewed among the skins till the greater part sticks 
to them; and men separated into distinct tubs, till 
they swell, and rise of themselves above the water. 

By these means, the remains of the lime are 
cleared out; they are then wrung out, hung up to 
dry on ropes, and sent to the mill, with the quan- 
tity of oil uecessaiy to fill them; the best oil is that 
of cod-fish. 

Here they are first thrown in bundles into the 
river for twelve hours, then laid in the mill-trough, 
and fulled without oil, till they are well softened; 
then oiled with tlie hand, one by one, and thus 
formed into parcels of four skins each, which are 
milled, and dried on cords a second time, then a 
third; then oiled again, and dried. 

This is repeated as often as necessar)'; when 
done, if any moisture remains they are dried in a 
stove, and made up in parcels wrapped up in wool; 
after some time they are opened to the air, but 
wrapped up again as before, till the oil seems to 
have lost all its force, which it ordinarily docs in 
twentv-four hours. 

To scour the shins. 

The skins are now returned to the chamoiser, 
to be scourged, by putting them into a lixivium of 
wood-asiies, working and beating thtm in it with 
poles, and leaving them to steep till the ley has had 
itseftect; then wrung out, steeped in anotiier lix- 
ivium, wrung again, and thi.s repeated till the 



grease and oil are purged out. They are then 
half-dried, and passed over a sharp-edged iron in- 
strument, placed perpendicularly in a block, which 
opens and softens ihem: lastly, they are thoro'ighly 
dried, and passed over the same instrument again 
which finishes the preparation. 

jnd and goat skins. 

Kid, and goat-skins, are chamoised in the same 
manner as those of sheep, excepting that the hair 
is taken off" by heat; and that when brought from 
the mill they undergo a preparation called ramal- 
ling, the most difficult of all. 

It consists in this, that as soon as brought from 
the mill they are steeped in a fit lixivium; taken 
out, stretched on a round wooden leg, and the hair 
scraped off^ with the knife; this makes thein smooth, 
and in working cast a fine nap. The difficulty is 
in scraping tiiem evenly. 

To dress hare, mole, or rabbit skins. 

Take a tea-spoonful of aium, and two of salt- 
petre, Doth finely powdered: mix them well; sprin- 
kle the powder on the flesh side of the skins, then 
lay the two salted sides together, leaving ihe fui 
outward; roll the skin exceedingly tight, and tie it 
round with packthread; hang it in a dry place for 
some days, then open it, and if sufficiently diy 
scrape it quite clean with a blunt knife, and keep 
it in a dry situation. I'his finishes the process. 

It may not be generally known, that the bitter 
applj bruised and put into muslin bags, will effec- 
tually prevent furs from being destro}'ed by moths. 
To make parchment. 

This article is manufactured from sheep skins, 
cleared from lime. The skin is stretched on a 
frame where the flesh is pared off" with an iron 
circular knife; it is then moistened with a rag, and 
whiting spread over it; the workman then, with a 
large pumice-stone, flat at the bottom, rubs oveF 
the skin, and scours off* the flesh. He next goes 
over it with the iron instrument as before, and rubs 
it carefully with the pumice stone without clialk; 
this serves to smooth the flesh-side. He drains 
it again by passing over il the iron instrument as 
before; he passes it over the wool side, then stretch- 
es it tight on a frame. He now throws more whit- 
ing and sweeps it over with a piece of woolly 
lamb-skin. It is now dried, and taken off" the 
frame by cu'ting it all round. I'hus prepared, it 
is taken out of the skinner's hands hy the parchment 
maker, who, while it is dry, pares it on a sunnmer, 
(which is a calf-skin stretched in a frame,) with a 
sh- "per instrument than that used by the skinner, 
who, working it with the arm from the top to the 
bottom of the skin, takes away about half its sub- 
stance. It is again rendered smooth by the pumice- 
stone, which leaves the parci/ment finished. 
To convert old parclimejit or vellum into leather. 

Soak and wash the skins well and often in soft 
water for 24 hours; then remove them for the same 
period into a bath composed of 1^ lb. of white 
vitriol, 1 lb. of cream of tartar, and 1 oz. of sal 
ammoniac, dissolved in 20 gallons of water. Next 
add 10 lbs. of vitriolic acid, 1 lb. of nitric acid, 
and 1 pint of spirit of salt, in which steep tl»e skins 
for a short time to purge away the old lime: next 
wash them clear of the acid, and rinse them as di-v 
as possible, without dainaging the skins. They 
are then to be put into a tanning liquor, composed 
of 20 lbs. of oak bark, 7 lbs. of sumach, 5 lbs. of 
elm-bark, 3 lbs. of sassafras, and the same quan- 
tity of lignum vitse shavings, portioned to 20 gal- 
lons of water, and previously warmed for 12 hours, 
and cooled down to a new-milk warmth, before the 
skins are immersed. 

To make vellwii. 

This is a species of parchment made of the skms 
of abortives, or suckling calves: it has a much finei 



284 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



grain, and is white and smoother than parchment, 
but is prepared in the same manner, except its not 
being pAssed through the lime-pit. The article is 
used for binding superior books, and covering of 
drum heads. 

To preserve leather from mould. 

Pyroligneous acid may be used wi(h success in 
preserving leather from the attacks of mouldiness, 
and is serviceable in recovering it after it has re- 
ceived that epecies of damage, by passing it over 
the surface of the hide or skin, first taking due 
care to expunge the mouldy spots by the applica- 
tion of a dry cloth. This remedy will prove of 
equal service if applied to boots, shoes, &c. when 
damaged in the same manner. 

To curry leather. 

This process prepares leather to be made up into 
boots, shoes, saddles, &c. and is performed upon 
the flesh or grain: in dressing on the flesh, the first 
operation is soaking the leather until it be tho- 
rougly wet, then the flesh side is shaved on a 
wooden beam. The knife used is of a rectangular 
form, with a handle at each end, and a double edge; 
after the skin is properly shaved, it is thrown into 
water again and scoured iipon a board by rubbing 
the grain or hair side with a piece of pumice- 
stone, by which means the substance is ])rof'uced 
out of the leather called " the bloom. " The hide 
is then conveyed to the drying place when the sub- 
stance is applied, consisting of a mixture of cod 
oil and Russian tallow, principally upon the flesh 
side; it is now waxed, which is done by rubbing 
it with a brush dipped in oil and lamp black on the 
flesh side; it is then sized with a brush or sponge 
dried and tallowed; this is called wax leather. To 
black leather on the grain the first operation is the 
same till it is scoured. Then a brush dipped in 
urine is rubbed over the leather, and after it is dry 
it is again rubbed over with a brush dipped in 
copperas water, and after, the grain is i-aised by a 
fine graining board, when it is finished and fit for 
the shoe-maker's use. 

To dye Morocco and sheep leather. 

The following colours may be imparted to lea- 



ther, according to the various uses for which it is 
intended. 

Blue. 

Blue is given by steeping the subject a day in 
urine and indigo, then boiling it with alum; or it 
may be given by tempering the indigo with red 
wine, and washing the skins therewith. 

Anothei\ — Boil elder berries, or dwarf elder, 
then smear and wash the skins therewith, and 
wring them out; then boil the berries as bef re in 
a solution of alum water, and wet the skins in the 
same ir inner, once or twice; ury them, and they 
will be very blue. 

Red, 

Red is given by washing the skins, and laying 
them two hours in galls; then wringing them out, 
dipping them in a liquor made with ligastrum, 
alum, and verdigris, in water; and lastly in a dye 
made of Brazil-v/ood boiled with ley. 
JPurple. 

Purple is given by wetting the skins with a so- 
lution of roche alum in warm water, and when 
dry, again rubbing them with the hand, with a de- 
coction of log-wood in cold water. 
Green. 

Green is given by smearing the skin with sap- 
green and alum-water boiled. 
Dark green. 

Dark green is given with steel filings and sal 
ammoniac, steeped in urine till soft, then smear- 
ed over the skin, which is to be dried in the 
shade. 

Yellow. 

Yellow is given by smearing the skin over with 
aloes and linseed oil, dissolved and strained, or by 
infusing it in weld. 

Light orange. 

Orange colour is given by smearing with fustic 
berries, boiled in alum water; or, for a deep orange, 
with turmeric. 

Sky-colour. 

Sky-colour is given with indigo steeped in boil- 
ing water, and the next morning warmed and 
smeared over the skin. 



HORTX^ULTUnH. 



To choose the best soil for a garden. 
Prefer a sandy loam, not less than two feet deep, 
and good earth not of a b-nding nature in summer, 
nor retentive of rain in winter; but of such a tex- 
ture, that it can be worked without difficulty in 
any season of the year. There are few sorts of 
fruit-trees, or esculent vegetables, whicli require 
less depth of earth to grow in than two feet to 
bring them to perfection, and if the earth of the 
kitchen-garden be three or more feet deep, so 
much the better; for when the plants are in a state 
of maturity, if the roots even of peas, spinach, 
Kidney beans, lettuce, fee. be minutely traced, they 
will be found to penetrate into the earth, in search 
of food, to the depth of two feet, provided the soil 
be of s nature that allows them. If it can be done, 
a garden should be made on land whose bottom is 
not of a springy wet nature. If this rule can be 
observed, draining will be unnecessary; for when 
land is well prepared for the growth of fruit-trees 
and esculent vegetables, by trenching, manuring, 
and digging, it is by these means brought into such 



a porous temperament, that the rains pass through 
it without being detained longer than necessary. 
If the land of a garden be of too strong a nature, 
it should be well mixed with sand, or scrapings of 
roads, where stones have been ground to pieces by 
carriages. 

To make gravel -walks. 
The bottom should be laid with lime-rubbisli, 
large flint stones, or any other hard matter, for 
eight or ter» inches thick, to keep weeds from 
growing through, and over this the gravel is to be 
laid six or eight inches thick. This should be laid 
rounding up in the middle, by wliich means the 
larger stones will run ofi^ to the sides, and may be 
raked away; for the gravel sliould never be screen- 
ed before it is laid on. It is a common mistake to 
lay these walks too round, which not only makes 
them uneacy to M'allc upon, but takes off from their 
apparent breadth. One inch in five feet is a suffi- 
cient proportion for the rise in the middle; so that 
a walk of twenty feet wide should be four inches 
higher at the middle than at the edges, and so iu 



HORTICULTURE. 



28? 



f)roportion. As soon as the gravel is laid, it should 
le i-aked, and tlie large stones thrown back again; 
then the whole should be rolled both lengthwise 
and crosswise; and the person who draws the roll- 
er should wear shoes with flat heels, that he may 
make no holes, because holes made in a new walk 
are not easily remedied. The walks should al- 
ways be rolled three or four times afier very hard 
showers, from which they will l)ind more firmly 
than otherwise they could ever be made to do. 
To prepare hot-beds, manures, and compt.sts. 

Stable-dung is in the most general use for form- 
ing hot-beds, which are masses of this dung after 
it has undergone its violent fermentation. 

Bark is only preferable to dung, because the 
substance which undergoes the process of putrid 
"erraentation requires longer time to decay. Hence 
t is found useful in the bark pits of hot-houses, as 
equiring to be seldomer moved or renewed than 
Jung, or any other substance. 

Leaves, and especially oak leaves, come the 
nearest to bark, and have the additional advantage, 
that when perfectly, rotten like dung, they form a 
rich mould, or excellent manure. 

The object of prpi\iration in these three sub- 
stances being to get rid of the violent heat which 
is produced when the fermentation is most power- 
ful, it is obvious that preparation must consist in 
facilitating the process. For this purpose, a cer- 
tain degree of moisture and air in the fermenting 
bodies are requisite; and hence the business of the 
gardener is to turn them over frequently, and ap- 
ply water wiien the process appears impeded, and 
exclude rain, when chilled with too much water. 

Recent stable dung generally requires to lie a 
month in ridges or beds, and be turned over in that 
time thrice before it is fit for cucumber-beds of 
the common construction; but for Mc Phail's hot- 
beds, or for linings, or for frames with moveable 
bottoms, three weeks, a fortnight, or less, will suf- 
fice; or no time at all need be given, but the dung 
forni ',d at once into linings. Tan and leaves re- 
quire, in general, a month. Fermentation is al- 
ways most rapid in summer; and if the materials 
are spread abroad during frost, it is totally imped- 
ed. Itt winter the process of preparation gene- 
rally goes on under the back sheds; which situa- 
tion is also the best in summer, as full exposure to 
the sun and wind dries too much the exterior sur- 
face; but whei'e sheds cannot be had, it will go on 
very well in the open air. Some cultivators have 
devised plans to economize heat by fermenting 
dung in vineries which are just beginoing to be 
forced, or in vaults under pine pits, or plant stoves. 
To form dung beds. 

In general, st^li beds are formed on a level sur- 
face; but MrT. A. Knight's plan is, to form a sur- 
face of earth as a basis, wliich shall incliae to the 
horizon to the extent of 15 degrees: on this he 
forms the dung-bed to the same inclination; and fi- 
nally, the frame, when placed on such a bed, if, hs 
is usual, it be deepest behind, will present its 
glass at an angle of 20 degrees instead of 6 or 8, 
which is, undoubtedly, of great advantage in the 
winter season. 

Ashes are often mixed with the dung of hot- 
beds, and are supposed to promote the steadiness 
and duration of their heat; and at least to revive it, 
if somewhat decayeJ. Tan leaves have also been 
used for the same purpose; and it is generally 
found that about one-third of tan and two-thirds of 
dung will form a more durable and .less violent 
heat, than a bed wholly of dung. The heat of 
dung-beds is revived by linings or collateral and 
surrounding walls or banks of fresh dung, the old 
dung of the bed being previously cut down close 
to the frames; and, ia severe weather, the sides of 



the bed are often protected by bundles of straw or 
faggots. 

Ihe residuum of heats, properly reduced by 
keeping, is a good simple manure for most fruit- 
trees, and excellent in a compost; but where the 
soil is na(nrally cold, a little ashes of coals, wood, 
straw, or burnt turf, or a minute proportion of soot, 
ought to be incorporated with it. Hog-dung has 
a peculiar virtue in invig^orating weak trees. Rot- 
ted turf, or any vegetable refuse, is a general ma- 
nure, excellent for all soils not already too rich. 
One of the best correctives of too rich a soil is 
drift sand. For an exhausted soil, where a fruit" 
tree that has been an old profitable occupant is 
wislied to be continued, a dressing of animal mat- 
ter is a powerful restorative; such as hogs' or bul- 
locks' blood, ofl'al from the slaughter-house, refuse 
of skins and lenthtr, decomposed carrion, &rOk 
The drainings of dung, laid on as mulch, are high- 
ly serviceable. 

It is very proper to crop the ground among new 
planted orchard trees for a few yeai-s, in order to 
defray the expense of hoeing and cultivating it, 
which should be done until the temporary plants 
are removed, and the whole be sown down in grass. 
As the trees begin to produce fruit, begin also to 
relinquish cropping. When by tiieir productions 
they defray all expenses, crop no longer. 
To make composts for manure. 

During hot weather, says Knight, I have all the 
offals in lfie garden, such as weeds leaves of straw- 
berries, and other vegetables, short grass, peas, 
and asparagus haulm, with the foliage of trees and 
shrubs when newly shed, carefully collected into 
a heap. Tiiese are all turned over and mixed dur- 
ing the winter, that they may be sufficiently rotted 
to mix with the dung against the end of summer. 
I have also another heap formed with the prunings 
from gooseberry and currant bushes, fruit-trees, 
raspberry shoots, clippings of box-edgings, and 
loppings from shrubs; also the roots of greens and 
cabbages: which are generally burnt at two different 
periods in the year, viz. in spring and autumn, but 
previous to each burning, I endeavour to pare up 
all the coarse grasses around the garden, with a 
portion of the soil adhering thereto; and when- 
ever these are sufiioiently dried, have them col- 
lected to the heap intended to be burnt. The fire 
is kindled at a convenient distance from the heaps, 
and a portion of sucii as burn most easily is first 
applied, until the fire has gained a considerable 
power. After this, the process of burning is con- 
tinued, by applying lighter and heavier substances 
alternately, that the one may preserve the action 
of the fire, and the other prevent it from reducing 
them too mcMsh to ashes. When the whole are 
thus consumed, a quantity of mould is thrown 
over the heap to prevent the fire from breaking 
through; and whenever it can be broke into with 
safety, it is then mixed up into a dunghill with the 
rotted vegetables, moss-earth, and stable-yard 
dukig, in such proportions as is likely to insure a 
moderate fermentation, which is generally com- 
pleted in three or four weeks; at which time it is 
most advantageously applied, in having it carried 
to the ground, and instantly dug in. 

To make composts for moulds. 

Composts are mixtures of several earths, at 
earthy substances or dungs, either for the improve- 
ment of the g-iieral soil under culture, or for the 
culture of particular plants. 

In respect to composts for the amendment of 
the genei-al soil of the garden, their quality must 
depend upon that of the natural soil: if lliis be 
light, loose, or sandy, it may be assisted by heavy 
loams, clays, &c. from ponds and ditches, clean- 
ings of sewers, &c. On the other hand, heavy. 



286 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



clayey, and all stubborn soils, may be assisted by 
light composts of sandy earth, drift, and sea-sand, 
the shovelings of turnpike roads, the cleansing of 
streets, all kinds of ashes, rotten tanner's bai'k, 
rotten wood, saw dust, an<i^ other similar light 
opening materials, thatiC^n be most cfiuveniently 
procured. 

To make composU for plants. 
These may be reduced to light sandy loam from 
old pastures: strong loam approaching nearly to 
brick earth from the same source: peat earth, from 
the surface of heaths or commons; bog earth, from 
bogs or morasses; vegetable earth, from decayed 
leaves, stalks, cow-dung, &c. sand, either sea- 
sand, drift-sand, or powdered stone, so as to be as 
free as possiole from iron; lime-rubbish; and last- 
ly cpmraon garden earth. There are no known 
plants that will no^ grow or thrive in one or other 
of these earths, alone or mixed with some other 
earth, or with rotten dung or leaves. Nurserymen 
have seldom more than three sorts of earth: loam, 
approaching to the qualities of brick-earth; peat 
or bog-eartli; and the common soil of their nurse- 
ry. With these and the addition of a little sand 
for striking plants, some sifted lime-rubbish for 
succulents, and some well-rotted cow-dung for 
bulbs, and some sorts of trees, they continue to grow 
thousands of different species in as great or greater 
perfection as in their native countries, and many, 
as the pine, vine, camelia, rose, &c. in a superior 
manner. 

To prepare composts. 
The preparation necessary for heavy aad light 
composts for general enrichment, and of the above 
different earths, consists in collecting each soil in 
the compost ground, in separate ridges of three or 
four feet broad, and as high, turning them every 
six >veeks or two months Tor a year or a year and 
a half before they are used. Peat earth, being 
generally procured in the state of turves full of the 
roots and tops of heath, requires two or three years 
to rot; but, after it has lain one year, it may be 
sifted, and what passes through a small sieve will 
be found fit for use. Some nurserymen use both 
these loams and peats as soon as procured, and find 
them answer perfectly for most plants; but for deli- 
cate flowers, and especially bulbs, and all florists' 
flowers, and for all composts in which manures 
enter, not less than one year ought to be allowed 
for decomposition, and what is called t.A'eelening. 
To make a green-house or conservatory. 
The depth of green-houses should never be 
greater than their height in the clear; which, in 
small or middling houses may be 16 or 18 feet, but 
in large ones from 20 to 24 feet; and the length of 
the windows s'.iould reach from about one foot and 
a half above the pavement, and witbia the same 
distance of the ceiling. 

The floor of the green-house, which should be 
laid either with Bremen squares, Purbeck stone, 
or flat tiles, must be raised two feet above the sur- 
face of the adjoining ground, or, if the situatio.i be 
damp, at least three teet; and if the whole is arch- 
ed with low brick arches under the floor, they will 
fee of great service in preventing damp; and under 
the floor, about two feet from the front, it will be 
very advisable to make a flue of ten inches wide 
and two feet deep; this should be carried the whole 
length of the house, and then returned back along 
the hinder part, and there be carrii d up into fun- 
nels adjoining to the tool-house, by whicb the 
smoke may be carried off". The fire-place may be 
conti:ived at one end of the house, and the door at 
which the fuel is put in, as also the ash-grate, m,ay 
be contrived to open into the tool-house. 

Whilst the front of the green-house is exactly 



south, one of the wings may be made to face the 
south-eust, and the other, the south-west. By this 
disposition the heat of the sun is reflected from 
one part of the building to the other all day, and 
the front of the main green-ho)ise is guarded f:-om 
the cold winds. These two wings may he so con- 
trived as to maintain plants of different degrees 
of hardiness, which may be easily effected bv the 
situation and extent of the flre-place, and the man- 
ner of conducting the flues. 

The sloping glasses of these houses sliould be 
made to slide and take off, so that they may be 
drawn down more or less in warm weather to 
admit air to the plants; and the upright glasses in 
the front may be so contrived as that eveiy other 
may open as doors upon hinges, and the alternate 
glasses may be divided into two; the upper part of 
each snould be so contrived as to be drawn down 
like sashes, so that either of them may be used to 
admit air in a greater or less quantity, as there 
may be occasion. As to the management of plants 
in a green-house, open the mould about them from 
time to time, and sprinkle a little fresh mould in 
them, and a little warm dung on that; also water 
them when the leaves begin to wither and curl, and 
not oftener, which would make them fade and be 
sickly: and take off such leaves as wither and grow 
dry. 

7^0 propagate vegetables. 
Plants are universally propagated by seed, but 
partially also by germs or bulbs, suckers, runners, 
slips, and offsets, and artificially by layers, inn- 
arching, grafting, budding, and cutting. 

The propagation by seed is to make sure of live 
seeds; for some lose their vitality verj' earlv alter 
being gathered, while others retain it only for one 
or perhaps two seasons; some seeds also are injur- 
ed, and others improved by keeping. The size of 
seeds requires also to be taken into consideration, 
for on this most frequently depends the depth 
which they require to be buried in the soil; the 
texture of then- skin or covering must be attended 
to, as on this often depends the time they require 
to be buried in the soil previously to germination. 
Oa the form and surface of the outer coating of 
seeds sometimes depends the mode of sowing, as 
in the carrot, and on their qualities in general de- 
pends their liability to be attacked by insects. The 
nature of the offspring expects it, and the proper 
climate, soil, and season, require also to be kept 
in view in determining how, where, when, and in 
what quantity, any seed must be sown. 

Germs or bulbs, cauline or radical, require in 
general to be planted immediately, or soon after 
removal from the parent plant, in light earth, about 
their own depth from the surface. Matured bulbs 
may be preserved out of the soil for some months, 
without itijuiy to their vitality; but infant bulbs are 
easily dried up and injured when so treated. 

Slips are shoots which spring from the collar or 
the upper part of the roots of herbaceous ;)lants, 
as in auricular, and under shrubs, as thymes, &c. 
I'he shoot when the lower part from whence the 
roots proceed, begins to ripen or acquire a finn 
texture, is to be slipped or drawn from the parent 
plant, so far as to bring off a heel or claw of old 
wood, stem, or root, on which generally some 
roots, or rudiments of roots, are attached. The 
ragged parts and edges of this claw or rough sec- 
tion are then to be smoothed with a sharp knife, 
and the slip to be planted in suitable soil and shad- 
ed (ill it strikes root afresh; 

The division of the plant is adopted in many 
species, as in grasses, the daisy, polyanthus, and a 
great variety of others. The plant is taken up, 
the earth shaken from its roots; the whole is then 



HORTICULTURE. 



287 



separated, each piece containing a portion of root 
and stem, which may be planted without farther 
preparation. 

With certain species runners is a convenient and 
sure mode of propagation. All that is requisite 
is, to allow the plantlet on the shoot, or runner, to 
he well rooted before being separated froi the pa- 
rent. U may tiien be planted where it is finally 
to remain. 

Suckers are merely runners under ground; some 
run to a considerable distance, as the acacia, nar- 
row-leaved elm, sea-lime grass, &c.; others again 
are more limited in their migrations, as the lilac, 
syringa, Jerusalem artichoke, saponaria, &c. All 
that is necessary is, to dig them up, cut off each 
plantlet with a portion of root, after which its top 
may be reduced by cutting off from one-fonrth to 
one-half of the shoot, in order to fit it to the cur- 
tailed root, and it may then be planted, either in 
the nursery-department, or, if a strong plant, 
where it is finally to remain. 

Propagation by layering. 

Iq general, the operation of layering in trees 
and shrubs is commenced before the ascent of the 
sap, or delayed till the ascent is fully up. The 
shoot, or extremity of the shoot, intended to be- 
come a new plant, is half separated from the 
parent plant, at a few inches distance from its 
extremity, and while this permits the ascent of the 
sap at the season of its rising, the remaining half 
of them, being cut through and separated, forms a 
dam or sluice to the descending sap, which, thus 
interrupted in its progress, exudes at the wound, 
in the form of a granulous protuberance, which 
throws out roots. If the cut or notch in the stem 
does not penetrate at least half way through, some 
sort of trees will not form a nucleus the first sea- 
son; on the other hand, if the notch be cut nearly 
through the shoot, a sufficiency of alburnum, or 
soft wood, is not left for the ascent of the sap, and 
the shoot dies. In delicate sorts it is not sufficient 
to cut a notch merely, because in that case, the 
descending sap, instead of throwing out granulated 
matter, in the upper side of the wound, would de- 
scend by the entire side of the shoot; therefore, 
besides a notcii formed by cutting out a portion of 
bark and wood, the notched side is slit up at least 
one inch, separating it by a bit of twig, or small 
splinter of stone or potsherd. The operation of 
layering is performed on herbaceous plants, as well 
as trees; and the part to become the future plant 
is, in both cases, covered with soil about a third 
of its length. 

When ihe layers are rooted, which will genei^lly 
be the case by the autumn after the operation is 
performed, they are all cleared from the stools or 
main-plants, and the head of each stool, if to be 
continued for furnishing layers, should be dressed; 
cutting off all decayed scraggy parts, and digging 
the ground round them. Some fresh ricli mould 
should also be worked in, in order to encourage 
the production of the annual supply of shoots for 
layering. 

Propagation by inn-arching. 

A sort of layering, by the common or slit pro- 
cess, iu which the talus, or heel, intended to throw 
out fibres, instead of being inserted in the soil, is 
inserted in the wood, or between the wood and 
bark of another plant, so as to incorporate with it. 
It is the most certain mode of propagation with 
plants difficult to excite to a dic;^)ositioa for rooting; 
and when all other modes fail, this, when a proper 
description of stock or basis is to be found, is sure 
to succeed. 

The stocks designed to be inn-arched, and the 
tree from which the layer or shoot is to be bent or 
arc)ie4 to^rards them, and put in or united, must 



he placed, if in pots, or planted if in the open soil, 
near together. Kardy trees of free growing kinds 
should have a circle of stocks planted round them 
every year in the same circumference, every other 
one being inn-arched the one year, and when re- 
moved, iheir places supplied by others. If the 
branches of the tree are too high for slocks in the 
ground, they should be planted in pots, and ele- 
vated on posts or stands, or supported from the 
tree, &c. 

To perform the operation, having made one of 
the most convenie'^t branches or shoots approach 
the stock, mark, on the body of the shoot, the part 
where it will most easily join to the stock; and in 
that part of each shoot pare away the bark and part 
of the wood 2 or 3 inches in length, and in the 
same manner pare the stock in the proper place 
for the junction of the shoot; next make a slit up- 
wards in that part of the branch or shoot, as in 
laj'ering, and make a slit downward in the stock 
to admit it. Let the parts be then joined, slipping 
the tongue of the shoot Into the slit of the stock, 
making both join in an exact manner^ and tie them 
closely together vith bags. Cover the whole af- 
terward, with a due quantity of tempered or 
grafting clay or moss. In hot-houses, care must 
be taken not to disturb the pots containing the 
plants operated on. 

JBy budding. 

Budding, or as it is sometimes called, gi*afting 
ijy gems, consists in taking an eye or bud attached 
to a portion of the bark of ligneous vegetables, of 
different sizes and forms, and generally called a 
shield, and transplanting it to another or a differ- 
ent ligneous vegetable. The object in view is 
precisely that of grafting, and depends on the same 
principle; all the difference between a bud and a 
scion being, that a bud is a shoot or scion in em- 
bryo. Budded trees are two years later in pro- 
ducing their fruit than grafted ones; but the advan- 
tage of budding is, that where a tree is rare, a new 
plant can be got from ever)' eye, whereas by graft- 
ing it can only be got from every three or four 
eyes. There are also trees which propagate much 
more readily by budding than grafting; and others, 
as most of the stone fruits, are apt to throw out 
gum when grafted. Budding is performed from 
the beginning of July to the middle of August, the 
criterion being the formation of the buds in the 
axillse of thvj leaf of the present year. 

The buds are known to be ready by the shield, 
or portion of bark to which they are attached, 
easily parting with the wood. 

Shie'i budding 

Is performed as follows; — Fix on a smooth part: 
on the side of the stock, rather from than towards 
the sun, and of a height dependmg, as in g'rafting, 
on whether dwarf, half, or whole standaV-d trees 
are desired; then, with the budding knife, make 
a horizontal out across the rind quite through the 
firm wood; from the middle of this transverse cut 
make a slit downward perpendicukJy, an inch or 
more long, going also quite through to the wood. 
Proceed with expedition to take off a bud; holding 
the cutting, or scion, in one hand, with the thickest 
end outward, and with the knife in the other hand, 
enter it about half an inch or more below a bud, 
cutting neai'ly half-way into the wood of the shoot, 
continuing it with one clean slanting cut, about 
half an inch more above the bud, so deep as to 
take off part of the wood along with it, the whole 
about an inch and a half long; then directly with 
the thumb and finger, or point of the knife, slip 
off the woody part remaining to the bud; which 
done, observe whether the eye or gem of the bud ■ 
remains perfect: if not, and a little hole appears 
in that part, the bud has lost its root, and another 



S88 



UNIVERbAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



must be prepared. This done, place the back part 
of the bud or shield between the lips, and with the 
flat haft of the knife, separate the bark of the 
stock on each side of the perpendicular cut, clear 
to the wood, for the admission of the bud, which 
directly slip down close between the wood and bark 
to the bottom of the slit. Next cut oft' the top part 
of the shield even with the horizontal cut, in order 
to let it completely into its place, and to join ex- 
actly the upper edge of the shield with the trans- 
verse cut, that the descending sap may immediately 
entei- the back of the shield, ard protrude granu- 
lated matter between it and the wood, so as to 
effect a living union. The parts are to be bound 
round with a ligament of fresh bass, previously 
soaked in water, to render it pliable and tough; 
begina little below the bottom of the perpendicu- 
lar slit, proceeding upward closely round every 
part, except just over the eye of the hnd, and con- 
tinue it a little above the horizontal cut, not too 
tight, but just sufficient to keep the hole close, and 
exclude the air, sun, and wet. 

Another method of budding. 

Trees are generally budded by making a trans- 
Terse section in the bark of the stock, and a per- 
pendicular slit beneath it; the bud is then pushed 
down to give it the position which it is to have. 
This operation is not always successful, and it is 
better to employ an inverse or contrary method 
by making the vertical slit above the transverse 
section or cut, and pushing the bark containing the 
bud u,")wards into its proper position. This method 
very rarely fails of success, because, as the sap 
descends by the bark, the bud placed above the 
transverse section receives abundance, whereas, 
if it be placed below the section, very little sap 
can ever get to it to promote the growth of the 
bud. Oil rubbed upon the stems and branches of 
fruit trees destroys insects, and increases the fruit- 
buds. Used upon the stems of carnations, it guards 
them against the depredations of the ear-wig. The 
coarsest oil will suit, and only a small quantity is 
required. 

To bud -with double ligatures. 

This is a new and expeditious mode of budding 
by Mr T. A. Knight. The operations are per- 
formed in the manner above stated; but, instead of 
one ligature, two are applied; one above the bud, 
inserted upon the transverse section, through the 
bark; tlie other applied below in the usual way. 
As soon as the buds have attached themselves, I'.e 
lower ligatures are taken off, but the others are 
suffered to remain. The passage of the sap up- 
wards is in consequence m ich obstructed, and the 
inserted buds begin to vegetate strongly in July 
(being inserted in June); and when these have af- 
lorded shoots abouc four inches long, the remain- 
ing ligatures are taken off, to permit the excess of 
sap to pass on; and the young shoots are nailed to 
the wall. Being there properly exposed to light, 
their wood will ripen well, and afford blossoms in 
the succeeding, Spring. 

To graft trees. 

This is a mode of propagation applicable to 
most sorts of of trees and shrubs; but not easily to 
very small under-shrubs, as heath or herbaceous 
vegetables. It is chiefly used for continuing vari- 
■ities of fruit trees. A grafted tree consists of two 
parts, the scion and the stock; their union consti- 
tutes the graft, and the performance of tlie opera- 
tion is called grafting. 

The end of grafting is, first, to preserve and 
multiply varieties and sub-varieties of fruit trees, 
endowed accidentally or otherwise with particular 
qualities, which cannot be with certainty transfer- 
red to their offspring by seeds, and which would 
be multiplied too slowly, or ineffectually, by any 
other mode of propagation. 



Second, to accelerate the fructification of treesy 
barren as well as fruit bearing; for example, sup- 
pose two acorns of a new species of oak, receiveo 
from a distant country; sow both, and after they 
have grown one or two years, cut one of them over, 
and graft the part cut off on a common oak of five 
or six years' growth; the consequence will be, that 
the whole nourishment of this young tree of five 
years' growth being directed towards nourishing 
the scion of one or two years, it will grow much 
faster, and consequently arrive at perfection much 
sooner than its fellow, or its own root left in the 
ground. 

The third use of grafting is to improve the qual- 
ity of fruits ; and the fourth to perpetuate varieties 
of ornamental trees or shrubs. 

JUaterials used in grafting. 

Procure a strong pruning-knite for cutting off 
the heads of the stocks previous to their prepara- 
tions by the grafting-knife for the scion; a small 
saw for larger stocks; and a pen-knife for very 
small scions; chisel and mallet for cleft grafting; 
bass ribbons as ligatures; and grafting clay. 
To prepare grafting-clay. 

Grafting-clay is prepared either from stiff vel- 
low or blue clay, or from clayey loam or brick 
earth; in either case, adding thereto about a fourth 
part of fresh horse dung, free from litter, and a 
portion of cut hay, mixing the whole well together, 
and adding a little water: then let the whole be 
well beaten with a stick upon a floor, or other hard 
substance; and as it becomes too dry apply more 
water; at every beating, turning it over; and con- 
tinuing beating it well at top till it becomes flat ana 
soft. This process must be repeated more or less 
according as the nature of the clay may require to 
render it ductile, and yet not so tough as to be apt 
to crack in dry weather. 

Whip grafting. 

Whip — or, as it is sometimes called, tongue 
— grafting, is the most generally adopted in nur- 
series for propagating fruit-trees. *To effect this 
mode in the best style, the top of the stock, and 
the extremity of the scions, should be nearly of 
equal diameter. Hence this variety admits of be- 
ing performed on smaller stocks than on any other. 
It is called whip-grafting, from the method of cut- 
ting the stock and scions sloping on one side so as 
to fit each other, and thus tied together in the man- 
ner of a whip-thong to the shaft or handle. 

The scion and stock being cut oft" obliquely, at 
coii-esponding angles, as near as the opeiUor can 
guess; then cut off the tip of the stock obliquely, or 
nearly horizontally; make now a slit nearly in the 
centre of the sloped face of the stock downwards, 
and a similar one in the scion upwards. The 
tongue or wedge-like process, forming the upper 
part of the sloping face of the scion, is then inser- 
ted downwards in the cleft of the stock; the inner 
barks of both being brought closely to unite on one 
side so as not to be displaced in tying, which ought to 
be done immediately with a ribband of bass, brought 
in a neat manner several times round the stock, and 
which is generally done from right to left, or in the 
course of the sun. The next operation is to clav the 
whole over an inch thick on every side, from about 
half an inch or more below the bottom of the graft 
to an inch over the top of the stock, finishing thie 
whole coat of clay in a kind of oval globular form, 
rather longways up and down, closing it effectual- 
ly about the scion and every part, so as no light, 
wet, nor wind, may penetrate; to prevent which ig 
the whole intention of claying. 

Cleft grafting. 

This is resorted to in the case of strong stocks, 
or in heading down and re-grafting old trees. The 
head of the stock or branch is first cut off oblique- 
ly, and then the sloped part is cut over horison. 



lANMNG. 



289 



■-t,v near the middle of the slope? a cleft nearly 
Iwo inches long is made with a stout knife or clii- 
Sfl in the crown downwards, at right angles to the 
sloped part, taking cai-e not to (''.vide the pith. 
This cleft is kept open by the knife. The scion 
has its extremity for about an inch and a half, cut 
into the form of a wedge; it is left about the eighth 
of an inch thicker on the outer side, and brought 
\o a fine edge on the inside. It is then inserted 
into the opening prepared for it; and the knife be- 
ing withdrawn, the stock closes firmly upon if. 
CroivH gfafting. 
This is another aiode adopted for thick stocks, 
shortened branches, or headed down trees. It is 
sometimes called grafting in the bai'kor rind, from 
the scion being inserted between the bark and wood. 
This mode of grafting is performed with best ef- 
fect, somewhat later than the others,,as the motion 
of the sap renders the bark and wood of the stock 
much more easily separated for the admission of 
the scions. 

In performing this operation, first cut or saw off" 
the Iiead of the stock or branch horizontally or le- 
vel, and pare the top smooth; then having the sci- 
ons cut one side of each flat, and somewhat slop- 
ing, an inch and a half long, forming a sort of 
shoulder at the top of the slope, to rest upon the 
crown of the stock; and then raise the rind of the 
stock M'ilh the ivory wedge, forming the handle of 
the budding knife; so as to admit the, scion be- 
tween that and the wood 2 inches down; which 
done, place the scion with the cut side next the 
wood, thrusting it down far enough for the shoul- 
■der to rest upon the top of the stock; and in this 
maimer may be put thr'^e, four, five, or more sci- 
ons in one large stock or branch. It is alleged as 
a disatlvantage attending this method in exposed 
situations, that the ingrafted shoots for two or three 
years are liable to be blown out of the stock by vio- 
lent winds; the only remedy for which is, tying 
long rods to the body of the stock or branch, and 
tying up eacli scion and its shoots to one of the 
lOds. 

Side grafting. 
This method resembles whip grafting, but dif- 
fers in being performed on the side of the stock, 
<vithout bending down. It is practised on wall 
trees, to fill up vacancies, and sometimes in order 
to have a variety of fruits upon the same tree. 
Having fixed upon those parts of the branches 
where wood is wanting to furnish the head or any 
part of the tree, then slope off the bark and a lit- 
tle of the wood, a^d cut the lower end of the sci- 
ons to fit the part as near as possible, then join 
them to the branch, and tie them with bass, and 
clay them over. 

Saddle grafting. 
This is performed by first ijutting the top of the 
stock into a wedge-like form, andtliei. splitting up 
the end of the scion, and thinning off each half to 
a tongue-shape; it is then placed on the wedge, 
embracing it on each side, and the inner barks are 
made to join on one side of the stock, as in cleft 
grafting, l his is a very strong and handsome made 
for standard tree3, when grafted at the standard 
height. It is also desirable for orange-trees, and 
rose-standards, as it makes a handsome finish, 
covering a part of the stock, which, by the other 
methods, long remains a black scar, and sometimes 
r.ever becomes covered with bark. The stocks for 
this purpose should not be much thicker than the 
scions, or two scions may be inserted. 
Shoulder or clunk grafting. 
This is performed with a shoulder, and some- 
times also with a stay at the bottom of the slope. 
It is chiefly used for ornamental trees, where the 
■scion and stock are ot the same size. 
2 M 



Root grafting. 
Koot-graftyig is sometimes performed in nurse- 
ries on parts of the roots of removed trees. When 
the proper stocks are scarce; in which case, the 
root of the white thorn has been resorted to as a 
stock both for the apple and pear. In general, 
however, a piece of the root of the tree of the same 
genus is selected, well furnished with fibres, and 
a scion placed on it in any of the ordinary ways- for 
small stocks. Thus united, they are planted so 
deep as to cover the ball of clay, and leave only a 
few eyes of the scion above ground. 

In a month after grafting, it may be ascertained 
whether the scion has united with the stock, by ob- 
serving the progress of its buds; but, in general, it 
is not safe to remove the clay for three months 
or more, till the graft be completely cicatrized. 
The clay may generally be taken oft' in July or 
August, and at the same time the ligatures loosen- 
ed where the scion seems to require more room to 
expand: a few weeks afterwards, when the parts 
have been thus partially inured to the air, and when 
there is no danger of the scion being blown off by 
winds, the whole of the ligatures may be removeti. 
To choose scions. 

Scions are those shoots which,. united with the 
stock, form the graft. They should be gathered 
several weeks before the season for grafting arrives. 
It is desirable that the sap of the stock should be in 
brisk motion at the time of grafting; but by this 
time the buds of the scion, if left on the parent tree, 
would be equally advanced, whereas the scions, 
being gathered early, the buds are kept back, and 
ready only to swell out when placed on the stock. 
Scions of pears, plums, and cherries, are collected 
in the end of January, or beginning of February. 
They are kept at full length sunk in dry earth, and 
out of the reach of frost till Avanted, which is some- 
times from the middle of February to the middle 
of March. Scions of apples are collected any time 
in February, and put in from the middle to the 
end of March. In July grafting, the scions are 
used as gathered. 

To choose cuttings. 

In respect to the choice of cuttings, those 
branches of trees and shrubs which ave thrown out 
nearest the ground, and especially such as recline, 
or nearly so, on the earth's surface, have alwa3-s 
the most tendency to produce roots. Even the 
branches of resinous trees, which are extremely 
difficult to propagate by cuttings, when reclining on 
the ground, if accidentally, or otherwise, covered 
with earth in any part, will there throw out roots, 
and the extremity of the lateral shoot will assume 
the character of a main stem, as maybe sometimes 
seen in the larch, spruce, and silver fir. 

The choice of cuttings then is to be made from 
the sidf shoots of plants, rather than from their 
summits or main stems, and the strength and health 
of side shoots being equal, those nearest the groupd 
should be preferred. The proper time for taking 
cuttings from the mother plant is, when the sap is , 
in full motion, in order that, in returning by the 
bark, it may form a callus or protruding ring of 
granular substance between the bark and wood, 
whence the roots proceed. As this callus, or ring 
of spongy matter, is generally best formed in ri- 
pened wood, the cutting, when taken from tins 
mother plant, should contain a part of the former 
year, or in plants which grow twice a year, of th« 
wood of the former growth; or in the case of plants 
which are continually growing, as riost evergreeu 
exotics, such wood as has begun to ripen or as- 
sume a brownish colour. This is the true princi- 
ple of the choice of cuttings a- to time; but there 
are many sorts of trees, as willow, elder, &e. the 
cuttings of which will grow almost at any season. 



290 



UNIVERSAL RP:CE1PT BOOK. 



and especially if removed from the mother plant in 
wintei", when the sap is at rest. 

These ought always to be cut across, with the 
smoothest and soundest section possible at an eye 
orjoint. And as. buds are in a more advanced 
state in wood somewhat ripened or fully formed, 
than in forming wood, this section ought to be 
made in the wood of the growth of the preceding 
season; or as it were in the point between the two 
growths. It is a common practice to cut off the 
whole or a part of the leaves of cuttings, which is 
always attended with bad effects in evergreens, in 
•which the leaves may be said to supply nourish- 
ment to the cutting till it can sustain itself. This 
is very obvious in the case of striking from buds, 
which, without a leaf attached, speedily rot and 
die. Leaves alone will even strike root, and from 
plants in some instances, and the same may be 
stated of certain flowers and fruits. 
Piping. 

This is a mode of propagation by cuttings, and 
is adopted with plants having jointed tubular 
stems, as the dianthus tribe; and several of the 
grasses, and the arundus may be propagated in 
this manner. When the shoot has nearly done 
growing, its extremity is to be separated, at a part 
of the stem where it is nearly indurated, or ripen- 
ed. This operation is effected by holding the root 
end between the finger and thumb of one hand, be- 
low a pair of leaves, and witli the other pulling tiie 
top part above the pair of leaves, so as to separate 
it from the root part of the stem at he socket, 
formed by the axilla of the leaves, leaving the stem 
to remain witii a tubular termination. These pip- 
ings are inserted without any further preparation 
iu finely sifted earth, to the depth of the first joint 
or pipe. 

To insert cuttings. 

Cuttings, if inserted in a mere mass of earth, 
will hardly throw out roots, while, if inserted at 
the sides of the pots, so as to touch the pot in their 
whole length, they seldom fail to become rooted 
plants. The art is to place them to touch the bot- 
tom of the pot, they are then to be plunged in a 
hark or hot-bed, and kept moist. 

To manage cuttings. 

No cutting r jquires to be planted deep, though 
the lai'ge ought to be inserted deeper than such as 
are small. In the case of evergreens, the leaves 
should be kept from touching the soil, otherwise 
.hey will damp or rot oft"; and in the case of tubu- 
lar stalked plants, which are in general not very 
easily struck, owing to the water lodging in the 
tube, and rotting the cutting, both ends may be ad- 
vantageously inserted in the soil, and, besides a 
greater certainty of success, two plants will be pro- 
duced. Too much light, air, water, heat, or cold, 
are alike injurious. To guard against these ex- 
tremes in tender sorts, the means, hitherto devised, 
is that of inclosing an atmosphere over the cuttings, 
by means of a hand or bell-glass, according to their 
delicacy. This preserves a uniform stillness and 
moisture of atmosphere. Immersing the pot in 
earth has a tendency to pi-eserve a steady uniform 
degree of moisture at the roots; and shading, or 
planting the cuttings, if in the open air in a shady 
situation, prevents the bad eifects of excess of 
light. The only method of regulating the heat is 
oy double or si'.;g-le coverings of glass or mats, or 
both. A hand-glass placed over a bell-glass, will 
preserve, in a shady situation, a very constant de- 
gree of heat. 

What the degree of heat ought to be, is decided 
by the degree of heat requisite for the mother 
plant. Most soeciej of the erica, dahlia, and gei'a- 
nium, strike better when supplied with rather 
more heat than ii raqiiisit.-^ covthe grov'Ji of these 



plants in green-houses. The myrtle tribe nnA 
camellas require rather less; and in general a 
lesser poi'tion of heat, and of every thing else pro- 
per for plants, in their rooted and growing stale, is 
the safest. 

To S01U seeds -with advantage. 

This is the first operation of rearing. Where 
seeds are deposited singly, as in rows of beans or 
large nuts, they are said to be planted; where 
dropt in numbers together, to be sown. The ope» 
ration of sowing is either performed in drills, 
patches, or broad-cast. Drills are small excava- 
tions formed with the draw-hoe, generally in 
straigiit lines parallel to each other, and in depth 
and distance apart, varying according to the size of 
the seeds. In these drills, the seeds are strewed 
from the hand of the operator, who, taking a small 
quantity in the palm of his hand and fingers, regu- 
lates its emission by the thumb. Some seeds are 
very thinly sown, as the pea and spinage; others 
thick, as the cress and small salading. 

Patches are .small circular excavations made 
with the trowel; m these, seeds are either sown or 
planted, thicker or thinner, and covered more or 
less, according to their natures. This is the mode 
adopted in sowing in pots, and generally in flower 
borders. 

In bi'oad-cast sowing, the operator scatters the 
seed over a considei-able breadth of surface, pre- 
viously prepared by digging, or otherwise being 
minutel}' pulverized, 'rhe seed is taken up in 
portions in the hand, and dispersed by a horizon- 
tal movement of the arm, to the extent of a semi- 
circle, opening the hand at the same time, and 
scattering the seeds in the air, so as they may fall, 
as equally as possible, over the breadth taken in by 
the sower at once, and which is generally 6 feet; that 
being the diameter of the circle in which his hand 
moves througi* half the circumference. In sowing 
broad-cast on beds, and narrow strips or borders, 
the seeds are dispersed between the thumb and 
fingers b)' horizontal movements of the hand in 
segments of smaller circles. 

Dry weather is essentially i-equisite for sowing, 
and more especially for the operation of covering 
in the seed, which in broad-cast sowing is done 
by treading or gently rolling the surface, and then 
raking it; and in drill-sowing, by treading in the 
larger seeds, as peas, and covering with the rake; 
smaller seeds, sown in drills, are covered with the 
same implement, without treading. 

To plant slirubs and trees. 

Planting, as applied to seeds, or seed-like roots, 
as potatoes, bulbs, Stc. is most frequently perform- 
ed in drills, or in separate holes made with the 
dibbler; in these, the seed or bulb \% (h-opt from 
the hand, and covered with or without treading, 
according to its nature. Sometimes planting is 
performed in patches, as in pots or borders, in 
which case, the trowel is the chief instrument used. 

Quincunx is a mode of planting in rows, by 
which the plants in the one row are alwa3's op- 
posed to the blanks in the other, so that when a 
plot of ground is planted in this way. the plants 
appear in rows in four directions. 

Planting, as applied to plants already originated, 
consists generally m inserting them in the soil of 
the same depth, and in the same position as they 
were before removal, but with various exceptions. 
The principal object is to preserve the fibrous 
roots entire; to distribute them equally around the 
stem among the mould or finer soil, and to pre- 
serve the plant upright. The plant should not be 
planted deeper than it stood in the soil before re- 
moval, and commonly the same side should be kept 
towards the sun. Planting should, as much as pos- 
sible be accompanied by abundant watering, in 



HORTICUI.TURE. 



291 



aider to consolidate the soil about the roots; and 
where the soil is dry, or not a sl.ff clay, it may be 
performed in the beginning of wet weather, in gar- 
dens; and in forest planting, on dry soils, in all 
open weather during autumn, winter, and spring. 
To -water gardens. 

Watering becomes requisite in gardens for va- 
rious purposes, as aliment to plants in a growing 
state, as support to newly trunsplanted plants, for 
keening under insects, and keeping clean the leaves 
of vegetables. One general rule must be ever kept 
in mind during the emplo3'ment of water in a gar- 
den, that is, never to water the top or leaves of a 
plant when the sun shines. All watering should 
be carried on in the evening or early in the morn- 
ing, unless it be confined to watering the roots, in 
which case, transplanted plants, and others in a 
growing state, may be watered at any time; and if 
they are shaded from the sun, they iray also be wa- 
tered over their tops. Watering over the tops is 
performed \sith the rose, or dispenser attached to 
the spout of the watering-pot, or by the syringe or 
engine. Watering the roots is best done with the 
rose: but in the case of watering pots in haste, and 
ivhere the earth is hardened, it is done with the 
naked spout. In new laid turf, or lawns of a loose 
porous soil, and too mossy surface, the water bar- 
rel may be advantageously used. 

Many kitchen crops are lost, or produced of very 
inferior quality, for want of watering. Lettuces 
and cabbages are often hard and stringy, turnips 
and radishes do not swell, onions decay, cauliflow- 
ers die off, and, in general, in dry soils. Copious 
waterings in the evenings, during the dry season, 
would produce that fulness of succulency, which 
are found in tiie vegetables produced in the low 
countries, and in the Marsh Gardens at Paris; and 
in this country at the beginning and, latter end of 
the season. 

The watering the foliage of small trees, to pre- 
vent tlie increase of insects, and of strawberries, 
and fruit shrubs, to swell the fruit, is also of impor- 
tance. 

To -uiater the foliage of-tvall trees. 

Water is to be supplied to the garden froiin a re- 
servoir, situated on an eminence, a considerable 
height above the garden walls. Around the whole 
garden, four inches below the surface of the ground, 
a groove, between two and three inches deep, has 
been formed in ti\e walls, to i-eceive a three-quar- 
ter inch pipe for conducting the water. About 50 
teet distant from each other, are apertures through 
the wall, 2^ feet high, and ten inches wide, in 
which a cock is placed, so that on turning the han- 
dle to either side of the wall, the. water issues 
from that side. The nozzles of the cocks have 
screws on each side, to which is attached at plea- 
sure a leathern pipe, with a brass cock and direc- 
tor; r les, pierced with holes of different sizes, 
being fitted to the latter. By this contrivance, all 
the trees, both inside and outside the wall, can be 
most effectually watered and washed, in a very 
short space of time, and with very little trou- 
ble. One man may go over the whole in two 
hours. At the same time the borders, and even a 
considerable part of the quarters, can be watered 
with tlie greatest ease, when required. 
To transplant. 

Transplanting consists in removing propagated 
plants, whether from seeds, cuttings, or grafts, ac- 
cording to their kinds and other circumstances, to 
a situation prepared to receive them. Transplant- 
mg, therefore, involves three things; first, the pre- 
paration of the soil, to which the plant is to be 
removed; secondly, the removal ot the plant; 
thirdly, the insertion in the prepared soil. 

The preparation of the soil implies, in all cases. 



stin-ing, loosening, mixing, and comminution: and, 
in many cases, the addition of manure or compost, 
according to the nature of the soil, and plant to be 
inserted, and according as the same may be in open 
ground, or pots or hot-houses. 

The removal of the plant is generally effected 
by loosening the earth around it, and then drawing 
it out of the soil whh the hand; in all cases avoid- 
ing as much as possible to break, or bruise, or 
otherwise injure the roots. In the case of small 
seedling plants, merely inserting the spade, and 
raising the portion of eartli in which they grow will 
suffice; but in removing larger plants, it is neces- 
sary to dig a trench round the plant. 

In some cases, the platit may be lifted wilii a ball 
of earth, containing all its roots, by means of the 
trowel; and in others, as in large shrubs or trees, 
it may be necessary to cut the I'oots at a certain 
distance from the plan*, one year before removal, 
in order to furnish them with young fibres, to enabl^- 
them to support the change. In pots less care is 
necessary, as the roots and ball of earth may be 
preserved entire. 

To accelerate plants in hot-houses. 

There are two leading modes of accelerating 
plants in these buildings; the first is by placing 
them there permanently, as in the case of the 
peach, vine, kc. planted in the ground; and the 
second is by having the plants in pots, and intro- 
ducing or withdrawing them at pleasure. As far 
as respects trees, the longest crops, and with i'nt 
less care, are produced by tlie first method; but in 
respect to herbaceous plants and shrubs, whethei 
culinary, as tlie strawberry and kidnej'-bean, or 
ornamental, as the rose and the pink, the latter is 
by far the most convenient method. Where large 
pots are used, the peach, cherrj', fig, he. will pro- 
duce tolerable crops. Vines and other fruit trees, 
when abundantly supplied with water and manure 
in a liquid state, require but a very small quantity 
of mould. 

To protect vegetables from injuries by means of 
strata ropes. 

This is effected by throwing the ropes in differ- 
ent directions over the trees, and sometimes de- 
positing their ends in pails of water. It has been 
tried successfully on wall-trees, and on potatoes and 
other herbaceous vegetables. As soon as the buds 
of the trees become turgid, idace poles against the 
wall, in front of the trees, at from 4 to 6 feet asun- 
der, thrusting their lower ends into the earth, 
about a foot from the wall, and fastening them at 
the top with a strong nail, either to the wall or 
coping. Then procure a quantity of straw or hay- 
ropes, and begin at the top of one of the outer 
poles, making fast the end, and pass the rope 
from pole to pole, taking a round turn upon each, 
until the end is reached, when, after securing it 
well, begin about 18 inches below, and return in 
the same manner to the other end, and so on till 
within two feet of the grounch Straw ropes have 
also been found very useful in protecting other 
early crops from the effects of frost, as peas, 
potatoes, or kidney-beans, by fixing them along 
the rows with pins driven into the ground. 
The same by nets. 

The nets should be placed out at the distance of 
15 or 18 inches from the tree, being kept off by 
loofed sticks, with their butts placed against the 
wall, and at a distance of about a yard from each 
other. In order to make them stand firmly, tlie 
net should be first stretched tightl}' on, and be fast- 
ened on all sides. If the nets were doubled or 
trebled, and put on in this way. Miey would be a 
more effectual screen, as the mesnes or openings 
would, in that case, be rendered very small. 
Woollen nets are <«e«]fle'd the best, rnd are now ir, 



292 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



peneral use in Scotlanft. In screening with nets of 
any kind, they are always to be left on night and 
day, till all Janger be over. 

'/'he same by i anvass screens. 

This is eftected either by placing mo?eable can- 
vass cases over or around detached trees; portable 
hand-cases over herbaceous plants; tents or open 
sheds over the forests' productions; or franses or 
sheets against trees trained on walls. In all cases 
they should be placed clear of the tree or plant, 
t'itlier by extended, forked, or hooked sticks, or 
any other obvious resource. 

To raise and manage fndt trees. 

In the removal or transplantation of trees, gar- 
deners and nurserymen are generally very careless 
and iu-ittentive in taking them up, and care not how 
much the i-oots are broken or tessened in number, 
provided they have enough left to keep the ti-ee 
alive; the consequence i", that although the 
brandies left on remain alive, there is so great a 
deficiency of sap, from the loss ot roots, that the 
vessels cannot be filled the following spring. 

The roots are broken or cut off at I'andom, and 
generally diminislied more than one-half, or they 
are do\jblfcd back and distorted; and, if there be 
enough left to keep the plant alive, it is thought 
quite sufficient; and, by these means, the appear- 
ance of blossoms and fruit being ])rematurely pro- 
duced, those stinted and deformed jjlants are sold 
as half or full-trained trees for four limes tlie price 
of others; and when sold, they are again taken up, 
and the roots treated and diminished in the same 
careless manner- 

When the soil of a garden, wherein fruit-trees 
are to be planted, is not naturally conformable or 
congenial to the first principle, it must be made so. 

The toi) of a wall should be so formed as to 
.brow off^ water; for otherwise it vill generally be 
lamped, which renders tlie trees unhealtliy; and, 
when the substance against which the bram;hes are 
fixed is dry, the temperature on all sides will be 
more ec|ual. 

In preparing beds or borders, due attention must 
be yjaid both to the soil and subsoil, as eacl> equally 
affects the health and fruitfidness of tr^es: and, 
principally, as it retains or discharges water, — 
stagnant water being at all times particularly detri- 
mental to the fructification of trees. 

For peaches, nectarines, &.c. a border of 10 or 
t'2 feet wide will generally prove suflicient. In 
cases where the soil has been too close and reten- 
tive, and the roots apt to grow deep, on the sub- 
stratum, lay a stratum of six inches of the common 
soil of the garden, and then form a stratum of 
about six inclies for the roots to run and repose in, 
composed of two-third parts of fine drift sand 
(the scrapings of a public road, that has been made 
or repaired with flints), and one-third part of rich 
vegetable mould, well mixed together; and the 
better way to perform this is, first to lay on about 
three inches of the composition, and on this place 
the roots of the plant, and over them spread the 
other three inches; and cover the whole down with 
from nine to twelve inches of the common soil of 
the place. 

Where it is not found necessary to form an arti- 
fi:cial substratum, it will be suflicient to remove the 
soil to the depth oi fifteen or eighteen inches, and 
there form the stratum of the roots, covering;- it 
down with a foot or nine inches of the common 
soil. 

General mode of planting trees. 

The operation of inserting plants in the soil is 
performed in v.irious ways; the most general mode 
recommended by M^rsiial and Nicol is pitting; in 
which two persons are employed, one to operate 
on the soil with a spade, and the otJier to insert 



the plant, and hold it till the earth is put round it 
and then press down the soil with the foot. 

The pit having been dug for several months, the 
surface will therefore be incrusted by the raifls or 
' probably covered with weeds. The man first 
strikes the spade downwards to the bottom 2 or 3 
times, in order to loosen the soil, then poaches it, 
as if mixing mortar for the builder: he next lifts 
up a spadeful of the earth, or, if necessary, 2 
spadesful, so as to make room for all the fibres, 
withoat their being anywise crowded together he 
then chops the rotten turf remaining in the bottom^ 
and levels the whole. The boy now places the 
plant perfectly upright, an inch deeper than when 
it stood in the nursery, and holds it firm in that 
position. The man trindles in the mould gently;^ 
the uoy gently moves the plant, not from side to 
side, but upwards and downwards, until the fibres 
be covered. The man then fills in all the remain- 
ing mould; ana immediately proceeds to chop and 
poach the next pit, leaving the boy to set the plant 
upright, and to tread the mould about it. This, 
in .stiff, wet soil he does lightly; but in sandy or 
gravelly soil he continues to tread until the soil no 
longer retains the impression of his foot. The 
man has by this time got the pit ready for the next 
plant, the boy is also ready with it in his hand, and 
in this manner the operation goes on. 

One general rule, and one of considerable im- 
portance in transplanting, is to set the plant or tree 
no doeper in the ground than it was originally- 
deep planting very often causes a decay, if not 
sudden destruction. 

JMore expeditious method. 

The following mode has been practised for many 
years on the Duke of Montrose's estate in Scot- 
land: — The operator, with his spade, makes 3 cuts, 
12 or 15 inches long, crossing each other in the 
centre, at an angle of 60 degn-es, the whole having 
the form of a stax\ He inserts his spade across 
one of the rays, a few inches from the centre, and 
on the side next himself: then bending the handle 
towards himself, and almost to the ground, the 
earth opening in fissures from the centre in the di- 
rection of the cuts which had been made, he, at 
the same instant, inserts his plant at the point 
where the spade intersected the ray, pushing it 
forward to the centre, and assisting the roots in 
rambling through the fissures. He then lets down 
the earth by removing his spade, having pressed it 
into a compact state with his heel; the operation is 
finished by adding a little earth, with the grass 
side down, completely cover" ng the fissures, for 
the purpose of retaining the moisture at the root; 
and likewise a? a top-dressing, which greatly en- 
courages the plant to put fresh roots between the 
swards. 

Germaii method of forcing trees. 

With a sharp knife make a cut in the bark of 
the branch which is meant to be forced to near, 
and not far from the place where it is connected 
with the stem, or, if it is a small branch or shoot, 
near where it is joined to the large bough — the 
cut is to go round the branch, or to encirclo it, and 
penetrate to the wood. A quarter of an inch from- 
this cut, make a second like the first, round the- 
branch, so that by both encircling the branch, a 
ring is formed upon the branch, a quarter of an 
inch broad, between the two cuts. The bark be- 
tween these two cuts is taken clean away, with a 
knife, down to the wood, removing even the fine 
inner bark, which immediately lies upon the wood, 
so that no connexion whatever rc^mains between 
the two parts of the bark, but the bare and naked 
wood appears white and smooth; but this bark ring, 
to compel the tiee to boar, must be made at the 
time when the buds ai-e strongly swelling or break- 



HORTICULTURE. 



293 



*n<» out into blossom. In the same year a callus 
18 formed at the edges of the ringf, on botli sides, 
and the connexion of the bark (hat had beeu inter- 
rupted is restored again, without any detriment to 
the tree, or the branch operated upon, in which tlie 
artificial wound soon again grows over. By this 
simple (though artificial) means of forcing- every 
fruit-tree with certainty to bear, the most im- 
portant advantages will be obtained. 
To plant small frtdts. 
Currants and gooseberries are often planted in 
lines, by the side of the walks or allej-s of the 
garden; but it is a better method to plant them in 
quarters by themselves, and to make new planta- 
tions every sixth or seventh year. 

Raspberries produce the finest fruil when young; 
that is, about the thii-d or fourth year after plant- 
ing, if properly managed. 

It is proper to plant some of all the above fruits 
on a north border, or other shaded situation, in 
order to prolong the season of them, if that be an 
object, besides planting them out in quarters, as 
hinted above. 

From four to six feet square, according to the 
quality of tiie soil, may be deemed a proper dis- 
tance at whicli to plant the above fruits; that is, in 
good land, six feet; in middling land, five; and in 
poor land, four feet. Some may f,lso very properly 
be planted against vacant places on any of the 
walls, pales, or espaliers. Antwerp raspberries, 
in p'-- "ticular, and some kinds of gooseberries, are 
highly improved in size and flavour, if trained to 
a south wall. 

The cranberry is grown to most advantage in 
bog-earth kept moist. The margins ot ponds are 
good situations for this plant. 

To a:)ose plants. 
No better mode exists at present than having re- 
course for trees to the most reputable nurseries; 
and, with McPhail and Nicol, we would recom- 
mend, instead of maiden plants, " to make choice 
of those not very young, but such as are healthy, 
and have been transplanted several times, and been 
in a slate of training for two or three years at 
least." A safe mode is, to plant partly ma-den, 
and partly trained plants, by which means those 
which «orae early into fruit, should they prove bad 
sorts, may be replaced by others. 

To manage orchards. 
The whole ground ot an orchard should be dug 
in the autumn, and laid up in a rough slate for the 
winter, giving it as much surface as possible in or- 
der that the weather may fully act upon aiid melio- 
rate the soil; thus following it as far as Uie case 
will admit. Observe to dig carefully near to the 
trees, and so as not to hurt their roots and fibres, 
if the soil be shallow^ and if these lie near to the 
surface, it would be advisable to dig with a fork, 
instead of the spade. 

Crop lo within two feet of the trees the first 
year; a yard the second; four feet the third, and so 
on, until finally relinquished; which, of course, 
would be against the e'ghth year, provided the 
trees were planted at 30 or 40 feet apart, with early 
bearing sorts between. By tliis time, if the kinds 
have been well chosen, the temporary trees will be 
in full bearing, and will forthwith defray every 
necessary expense. 

Let a small basin or hollow be made roond the 
stem of each tree, a foot or 18 inches in diameter, 
and 2 or 3 inches deep, according to the extent of 
its roots. Fill this basin with littery dung, to the 
thickness of five or six inches, over which sprinkle 
A Utile earth, just enough to keep it from being 
blowQ abouf, This both nourishes the young 
fibres, and keeps the ground about them moist in 
kot weather, if wetted freely once a week. 



To clothe the stems of etandard'trees. 
This is done by an envelope of moss, or short 
grass, or litter wound round with shreds of mat- 
ting, is of great use the first year after planting, to 
keep *he bark moist, and thereby aid the ascent and 
circiUation of the sap in the alburnum. Tliis 
operation should be performed at or soon after 
planting, and the clothing may be left on till, bv 
decay, it dropsoff of itselt; it is of singular service 
in very late planting; or, when frop.i unforeseen 
circumstances, summer-planting becopics requi- 
site. 

'lo prime orchard trees. 
The object in pruning young tr°es, is to form a 
proper head. The shoots may be prunei' in pro- 
portion to their lengths, cutting clean away such 
as cross one another, and fanning the U-ee out 
towards the extremities on all sides; thereby keei>- 
ing it equally poised, and fit to resist the effects of 
high winds. When it is wish'-d to throw a young 
tree into a bearing stale, which should not he 
thought of, however, sooner than he third or 
fourtii year after planting, the leading branches 
should be very little shorlened, and the lower oi 
side brandies not at all, nor should the knife be 
used, unless to cut out such slioots as cross one 
another. 

The season for pruning orchards is generally 
winter or early in spring. A weak tree ought to 
he pruned directly at the fall of the leaf. To 
prune in autumn strengthens a plant, and will bring 
the blossom buds more forward; to cut the wood 
late in spring tends to check a plant, and is one of 
the remedies for excessive luxuriance. 
To recave7' deformed trees. 
Where a tree is stint.eil, or the head ill sliaped, 
from being originally badly pruned, or barren from 
having overborne itself, or from constitutional 
weakness, the most expeditious remedy is to head 
down the plant within three, four, or five eves (or 
inches, if an old tree) of the top of the slera, in 
order to furnish it with a new head. The recovei7 
of a languishing tree, if not too old, will be further 
promoted h}' taking it up at the same time, and 
pruning the roots: for as, on the one hand, the de- 
priving of too luxuriant a tree of part even of its 
sound, healthy roots, will modei-ate its vigour; so, 
on the other, to relieve a stinted or sickly tree of 
cankered or decayed roots, to prune the extremi- 
ties of sound roots, and especially to shorten the 
dangling tap-roots of a plant, affected bj' a bad 
sub-soil, is, in connexion with heading down, or 
very short pruning, and the renovation of the soil, 
and draining, if necessaiy, of the sub-soil, the 
most availing remedy that can be tried. 

To cure diseases of orchard-trees. 
A tree often becomes stinted from an accumu- 
lation of moss, which aifects the functions of tiie 
bark, and renders the tree unfruitful. This evil 
is to be removed by scraj)ing the stem and branches 
of old trees with the scraper; and on young trees 
a hard brush will effect tlie purpose. Abero om- 
bie and Nicol recommend the finishing of ihis 
operation by washing with soap-suds, or a medi- 
cated w .sh of some of the different sorts for de- 
stroying the eggs of insects. 

Wherever the bark is decayed or cracked, it 
ought to be removed. 

The other diseases to which orchard trees are 
subject are e'liefly the canker, gum, mildew, and • 
blight, which are rather to be prevented by such 
culture as will induce a healthy state, than to be 
remedied by topical applications. Too much lime 
may bring on the canker, and if so, the replaciug 
a part of such soil with alluvial, or vegetable earth, 
would be Oi service. 
The eum may be constitational, arising from ot- 



294 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



fensive matter in the soil, or local, arising from 
external injury. In the former case, improve the 
soil; in the latter, employ the knife. 

The mildew may be eas.ly subdued at its first 
appearance, by scattering flour of sulphur uwon the 
infected parts. 

For the blight and caterpillars, Forsyth recom- 
mends burning of rotton wood, weeds, potatoe- 
haulra, with sti-aw, &c. on the windward side of 
the trees, when tliey are in blossom. He also re- 
commends washing the stems and branches of all 
orchard trees, with a mixture of '■ fresli cow dung 
witli wine and soap-suds, "as a white washer would 
wash the ceiling or walls of a room. The pro- 
raised advantages are, the destruction of insects, 
and fine bark, more especially when it is found 
necessary to take off all the outer bark. 
To pi^eserve apple, cherry, and plum-trees from 
frost, as practised in Russia. 

The severity of the winters at St Petersburgh 
is so great that few fruit-trees will survive it, even 
witb careful matting; to prevent the loss which is 
thus usually sustained, the following mode of 
training has been attended with complete success. 
It consists in leading the branches of the trees on 
horizontal trellises only ten or twelve inches from 
the ground. When the winter sets in, there are 
heavy falls of snow, and as the frost increases, the 
snow generally augments, by which the trees are 
entirely buried, and receive no injury from the 
laost intense frost. 

Another very great advantage of training trees 
in the above method consists in the growth of the 
wood, it being of equal strength, and the fruit pro- 
duced being all alike, the blooms come out much 
earlier, and the crop ripens sooner. The trees 
are always clean, and free from insects. 

The only cherry that does not succeed in that way 
is the black heart; this is attributed to the damps 
which affect the early blossoms, but in a milder 
climate tliis injury would be obviated by placing 
the trellis higher from the ground. When the 
trellis decays under the apples, it is never renew- 
ed, as the trees keep always (from the strength of 
their branches) their horizontal position. 

There are other advantages of treating fruit- 
trees in this manner; they come sooner into bear- 
ing, and their fruit is not affected by high v/inds. 
The apples are never gathered, but suffered to 
'Jrop off, for the distance they fall is not sufficient 
10 bruise ihera. 

To preserve and pack roots, &c. 

Roots, cuttings, grafts, and perennial plants 
in general, are preserved, till wanted, in earth or 
moss, moderately moist, and shaded from the sun. 
The same principle is followed in packing them 
to be sent to a distance. The roots, or root ends 
of the plants, or cuttings, are enveloped in balls of 
;lay or loam, wrapped round with moist moss, 
<nd air is admitted to the tops. In this way 
orange-trees are sent from Genoa to any part of 
Europe and North America in perfect preservation; 
and cuttings of plants sent to any distance which 
can be accomplished in eight months, or even 
longer with some kinds. Scions of the apHe, pear, 
&c. if enveloped in clay, and wrapt up in moss or 
straw, and then placed in a portable ice-house, so 
p.s to prevent a greater heat than 3'2 deg. from 
penetrating to them, would keep for a year, and 
might thus be sent from England to China. The 
buds of fruit-trees may be preserved in a vegetat- 
ing state, and sent to a considerable distance, by 
reducing the leaf-stalks to a short length, and en- 
closing the shoot in a double fold of cabbage-leaf, 
bound close together at each ena, and then enclo- 
sing the package in a letter. It is of advantage to 
place the under surface of the cabhage-leaf inwards. 



by v/hich the enclosed branch is supplied with hen 
midity, that being the perspirating surface of tb'.; 
leaf, the other surface being nearly or wholly iia 
pervious to moisture. 

Skreffii for protecting -wall trees. 

It consists of two deal poles, on which is nailed 
thin canvass, previously dipped in a tanner's bark 
pit, to prevent its being mildewed when rolled up 
wet. At the top the ends of the polls fit into dou- 
ble iron loops, projecting a few inches from the 
wall, immediately under the coping; and at the 
bottom they are fixed, by a Iwle at tbe end of each 
pole, upon a forked iron coupling, which projects 
about 14 inches from the wall, thereby giving the 
skreen a sufficient inclination to clear the branched. 
When it is wished to uncover the trees, one of 
the poles is disengaged, and rolled back to the side 
of the other, where it is fastened as before. The 
most violent winds have no injurious effect upon 
shades of this kind; a wall is very expeditiously 
covered and uncovered, and there is not any dan- 
ger of damaging the blossoms in using them; they 
occupy very little space when rolled up, are not 
liable to be out of order; and, although rather ex- 
pensive at first, seem to be very durable. From 
the facility with which the skreen is put up, it may 
be beneficially used in the seasons when fruit ri- 
pens, to secure a succession, by retarding the crop 
of any particular tree. ' 

The lower ends of the poles are advantageously 
retained in their place, by means of a small iron 
spring key, attached to the coupling by a short 
chain. 

To protect fruits from insects. 

Some species, as wasps, flies, &c. are prevented 
from attacking ripe fruits by gauze or nets, or by 
inclosing the fruit, as gra[)es, in bags. 

Tiie blossoms of the ho^a carnosa drives wasps 
from grapes, in hot-houses; and the fruit of the 
common yew-tree, tlie same in open air. 
To manage pinery. 

The culture of Pine apples (saysNicol)is attend- 
ed with a heavier expense than that of any other 
fruit under glass, especially if they be grown in 
lofty stoves: but, independent of this, pine-apples 
may certainly be produced in as great perfection, 
if not greater, and with infinitely less trouble and 
risk, in fluid pits, if properly constructed, than in 
any other way. 

Tfe« pinery should therefore be detached from 
tlie other forcing-houses, and consists of three pits 
in a range; one for crowns and suckers, one for suc- 
cession, and one for fruiting plants. The fruiting 
pit to be placed in the centre, and the other two, 
right and left, forming a range of 100 feet in length, 
which would give pine-apples enough for a large 
family. 

Tlie fruiting-pit to be 40 feet long, and 10 wide, 
over walls; and each of the others to be 30 feet 
long, and nine feet wide also over walls. The 
breast-wall of the vchole to be on a line, and to be 
18 inches above ground. The hack- wall of the 
centre one to be five feet, and of the others, to be 
4^ feet higher than the front. The front and end 
flues to be separated from the bark bed by a three 
inch cavity, and the back flues to be raised above 
its level. 

The furnaces may either be placed in fi'ont, of 
at the back, according to conveniency; but the 
strength of the heat should be first exhausted in. 
front, and should return in the back flues. The 
fruiting-pit would require two small furnaces, i» 
order to diffuse the heat regularly, and keep up » 
proper temperature in winter; one to be placed at 
each end; and either to play, first in front, and re- 
turn in the back; but the flues to be above, and not 
^on{;sidp of one another. The under one to be 



HORTICULTURE. 



295 



toiisidered merely as an auxiliarjr flue, as it would 
only be wanted occasionalh'. None of these flues 
:ieed be more than five or six inches wide, and nine 
or ten deep. Nor need the furnaces be so large, by 
a third or a fourth part, as those for large forcing 
houses; because tiiere should be proper oil-cloth 
covers for the whole, as guards against severe wea- 
ihe-.-, which would be a great saving of fuel. The 
depth of the pits should l)e regulated so as that the 
average depth of the bark-beds may be a yard be- 
low tfie level of the front flues, as to that level the 
tiark will generally settle, although made as high 
as their surfaces, when new stirrred up. If leaves, 
or a mixture of leaves with durrg, are to be used 
instead of bark, the pits will require to be a foot, 
or half a yard deeper. 

General mode of cultivating the pine. 

The culture of this plant geueraU)|(Commences 
m a common hot-bed frame, heated oy dung; at 
the end of six or nine months, it is removed to a 
larger framed hot-bed, or pit, generally called a 
succession bed; and after remaining liere from 3 to 
I'i months, it is removed to its tinal destination, 
the iruiting-bed. Here it shows its fruit, continues 
in a growing state during a period of irom 6 to 
i'i months, according to llie varieiy grown, mode 
of culture, &e. and finally ripens its fiuit and dies, 
leaving the crown or terminal shoot of the fruit, 
and one or more suckers or side-shoots as succes- 
sors. The production of a single pine-apple, 
therefoi-e, requires a course of exotic cultiu'e, vary- 
ing from 18 months to 3 years. 
Soil. 

The pine-apple plant will grow in any sort of 
rich tarth taken from a quarter of the kitchen gar- 
<len, or in fresh sandy loam taken from a common 
long pastured with sheep, &c. If the earth be not 
of a rich, sandy quality, of darkish colour, it sliould 
ue mixed well with some perfectly rotten dung and 
sand, and if a little vegetable mould is put among 
it, it will do it good, and also a little soot. Though 
pine-plants will grow in earth of the strongest 
texture, yet they grow most freely in good sandy 
loam not of a binding quality. 
Heat. 

Pines do not require so strong a bottom-heat as 
many keep them in; yet there is something in a 
mild tan-heat, so congenial to their natures, that 
they thrive much better in pots plunged in a bark 
bed, if properly managed, than when planted out 
on a bed of earth tliat is heated, and often scorched 
by under flues. The tan or bark-pits are therefore 
essential to the pinery. Bark-pits are filled with 
tan which has previously undergone a course of 
draining and sweating. The heat thus produced 
will last from 3 to 6 months, when it is sifted and 
again put in a state of fermentatioii, by replacing 
the deficiency occasioned by decay, and a separa- 
tion of the dust by sifting witli new tan. In this 
way the bark-\)ed is obliged to be stirred, turned, 
refreshed, or even renewed, several times a year, 
so as to produce and retain at all times a bottom- 
heat of from 75 to 85 degrees in each of the three 
departments of pine culture. 

Propagation of the pine. 

The pine is gpnerally propagated by crowns and 
suckers, though, in common with every other 
plant, it may be propagated by seed. 

To separate cro-ums and suckers. 

When the fruit is served at table, the crown is to 
be detached by a gentle twist, and returned to the 
gardener, if it be wanted for a new plant. Fruit 
stalk suckers are taken off at the same period. 
Suckers at the base of the herb are commonly fit 
for separation when the fruit is mature; though, if 
the stool be vigorous, they mjy be left on for a 
uionth after the fruit is cu^t, the sto»l receiving 



plentiful waterings on their account. The fitness 
of a sucker to be removed, is indicated, at the lower 
l)art of the leaver by a brownish tint; on the ap- 
pearance of which, if the lower leaf be broken oif, 
the sucker is ea«Jy displanted by the thumb. 

If the -lid fruiting-plunt ofi'ers only small bottom 
suckers, or fails to furnish any, good suckers may 
be thus brought out: — having waited till the fruit 
is cut, take the old plant in its pot out of the bark- 
bed: strip off^ the under leaves near the root, and 
with the knife cutaway the leaves to 6 inches from 
the bottom. Take out some of the stale mould 
from the pot, fill up with fresh, and give a little 
water. Plunge the old plant into a bed with a good ' 

growing heat. Let tlie routine culture not be "neg- 
lected, and tiie old plants will soon send out good 
suckers: allow these to grow till they are 4 inches 
long or more; and on the signs of fitness detach them. 

As soon as either crowns or suckers are detach- 
ed, twist off some of the leaves about the base; Che 
vacancy thus made at the bottom of the stem is to 
favour the emission of roots. Pare the stump 
smooth; then lay the intended plants on a shelf 
in a shaded part of the stove or of any dry apartment. 
Let crowns and fruit oflT-sets lie till the part that 
adhered to the fruit is perfectly healed; and root 
suckers in the same manner till the part which was 
united to the old stock is become dry and firm. 
They will be fit to plant in five or six days. 
Treatment of tli£ plants. 

Keep the plants growing gently, and have the 
pots, in general, completely filled with the roots 
by llie time at wliichit is intended to excite them 
into blossom. From the middle of February to 
the 1st of March is a good time to have the main 
crop in flower; as the prospective season is the 
finest. About a month before it is expected to see 
fruit, dress the plants by taking away 2 inches in 
depth from the top of the mould. Twist off some 
of the lower leaves. Fill up with fresh compost, 
round the stem, to the remaining leaves. Tlie 
bark-bed should be revived at the same time, so 
as to make it lively: but no new tan shou.d be 
added, till the time for the fullest heat arrives. If 
it is desired to ripen eminently large fruit, destroy 
the suckers as they spring, by twisting out tlieir 
liearts with an iron sharp pointed instrument form- 
ed for the purpose. Apply this to the lieart of the 
sucker; and, turning it round, bring the heart away, 
on the other hand, when the multiplication of the 
stock is a principal object, the suckers must not be 
extirpated. A yet further advantage may be given 
to the swelling of the fruit, by having a few of the 
lower leaves of the p'ant taken oiF, and by putting a 
rim of tin, or any thing else in the form of a hoop, 
round the top of the pot, sufficient to raist the 
mould 3 or 4 inches. The mould should be of the 
best quality, and constantly k,.pt in a moderate 
moist state: this may ba done by having the surface 
kept covered with moistened moss. The roots of 
the pine plant, especially those produced from tht 
part of the stem just under the leaves, will thes 
make a surprising progress, and the fruit will be 
greatly benefited by this expedient. 
To cut ripe pines. 

The indications of maturity are a diffusive fra- 
grance, accompanied by cL .oge in the colour of 
the fruit; most sorts becoming yellow, or straw 
colour; others dark green, or yellowish tinged 
with green. Cat pine-apples before they are dead- 
ripe, or the spirit of the flavour will be^dissipated. 
Bring aw'ay with the fruit above 5 inches ot stalk, 
and leave the crown adhering to the top. If pine- 
apples be not cut soon after they begin to colour, 
they fall greatly off in flavour and richness, and that 
sharp luscious taste, so much admired, becomes 
insipid. 



296 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT liOOK. 



To destroy insects tn pines. 

If the plants by proper culture be kept healthy 
and vigorous, insects will not annoy, but leave 
them. The coccus hesperides seems to delight in 
disease and decay, as flies do in carrion. The follow- 
ing recipe may safely be applied to pine-apples in 
any state, but certainly, best to crov/ns and suck- 
ers, at st-viking them in August: to others it may, 
at any rate, be used in tlie March shifting, when 
they are shaken out of their pots: 

Take of soft soap, 1 pound; flowers of sulphur, 
I pound; tobacco, half a pound; nux vomica, 1 oz. ; 
soft water, 4 gallons; boil all these together till the 
liquor is reduced to 3 gallons, and set it aside to 
cool. In this liquor immerse the whole plant, after 
the roots and leaves are trimmed for potting. 
Plants in any other state, placed in the bark-bed, 
may safely be watered over head with the liquor 
reduced m strength by the addition of a third part 
of water. As the bug harbours most in the angles 
of the leaves, there is the better chance that the me- 
dicated water wili be effectual, because it will there 
remain the longest, and there its sediment will set- 
tle. The above is a remedy for every species of 
the coccus; and for most insects, on account of its 
strength and glutinous nature. Its application will 
make the plants look dirty; therefore, as soon as the 
intended effects maybe supposed to have followed, 
whatever remains of the liquor on the leaves should 
be washed off with clean water. It would be im- 
proi)er to pour a decoction charged with such of- 
fensive materials, over fruiting plants. 
Other methods. 

Turn the plants out of the pots, and clean the 
roots; then keep them immersed for 24 hours in 
water in which tobacco stalks have been infused: 
the bugs are then to be rubbed off with a sponge, 
and plants, after being washed in clean water and 
dipped, are to be repotted. 

Ill the " Caledonian Horticaltural Transactions," 
a similar mode is described, only in the place of to- 
bacco-juice, flowers of sulphur are directf d to be 
mixed with the water. With a bit of bass-mat, 
fixed on a small stick, and dipt in water, displace 
as many of the insects as can be seen. Then im- 
merse the plants in a tub of water, containing about 
1 lb. of flowers of sulphur to each garden potful. 
Let them remain covered in the water 24 hours, 
then lay them with their tops downwards to dry, 
and re-pot them in the usual manner. 

Tlie experience of Hay, one of the best practi- 
cal gardeners in Scotland, leads him to conclude, 
that even moderate moisture is destructive to these 
insects. For many years, h" regularly watered 
his pine plants over head witli the squirt, during 
the smmer months: this was done only in the 
evening: it never injured the plants; and the bug 
never appeared u^on them. 

To plant vines. 

Vines are commonly either trained against the 
back wall, or on a trellis under the glass roof. In 
the former case, the plants are always placed inside 
the house: but in the latter, there are two opinions 
among practical men, one in favour of planting 
them outside, and the other inside the parapet 
wall. 

Abercrombie says, " Let them be carefully 
turned out of the pr-ts, reducing the balls a little, 
and singling out the matted roots. Then place 
them in the pits, just as deep in the earth as they 
■were before, carefully spreading out the fibres, and 
filling in with fine sifted earth, or with vegetable 
mould. Settle all with a little water; and let them 
have plenty of free air every day, defending them 
from very severe frost or iruch wet; which is all 
the care they will require till they begin to push 
young shoots. 



Composts jor vines. 

The following are the materials and proportions 
of a good compost, recommended by Abereron** 
hie: — Of top-spit sandy loam, from an upland pas- 
ture, one-third part; unexhausted brown loam from 
a garden, one-fourth part; scrapings of roads, free 
from clay, and repaired with gravel or slate, one- 
sixth part; vegetable mould, or old tan reduced to 
earth, or rotten stable-dung, one-eighth part; shell 
marl or mild lime, one-twelfth part. The borders' 
to be from 3 to 5 feet in depth, and, where practi- 
cable, not less than 4 feet wide in surface within 
the house, communicating with a border outside 
the building, of not less than ten feet wide. 
To choose the' plants. 

Vines are to be had in the nurseries, propagated 
either from layers, cuttings, or eyes; and, provided 
the plants be well rooted, and the wood ripe, it is 
a matter of indifference from which class the choice 
is made. 

Speedy mode of storing a nexv grape house. 

This mode is only to be adopted where a vinery 
previously exists in the garden, or where there is 
a friend's vinery in the neighbourhood. 

In the end of June or beginning of Julj^ when 
the vines have made new shoots from 10 to 12 feel 
long, and about the time of the fruit setting, select 
any supernumerary shoots, and loosening therm 
from the trellis, bend them down so as to make then 
form a double or flexure in a pot filled with earth, 
generally a mixture of loam and vegetable mould- 
taking care to make a portion of last year's wood, 
containing a joint, pass into the soil in the pot 
The earth is kept in a wet state; and, at the sarat 
time, a moist warm air is laaintained in the house 
In about ten days, roots are found to have proceed 
ed plentifully from the joint of last year's wood, 
and these may be seen by merely stirring the sur- 
face of the earth; or sometimes they may be ob-* 
served penetrating to its surface. The layer may 
now be safely detached, very frequently it contains 
one or two bunches of grapes, which continue to 
grow and come to perfection. A layer, cut off in 
the beginning of July, generally attains, by the 
end of October, the length of 15 or 20 feet. A 
new grape-house, therefore, might in this way be 
as completely furnished with plants in three 
months, as by the usual method, above described, 
in three years. 

Another mode, 

A mode of more general utility than the forego- 
ing, is to select the plants in the nursery a year 
before wanted, and to order them to be potted in- 
to very large pots, baskets, or tubs, filled with the 
richest earth, and plunged into a tan bed. They 
will thus make shoots, which, the first year after 
removal to the.r final destination, will, under or- 
dinary circumstances, produce fruit. 
To prune and train vines. 

The methods of pruning established vines ad- 
mit of much diversity, as the plants are in differ- 
ent situations. Without reckoning the cutting 
down of young or weak plants alternately, to the 
lowermost summer shoot, which is but a tempora- 
ry course, three different systems of pruning are 
adopted. 

Tlie first is applicable only to vines out of doors; 
but it may be transferred to plants in a ■»'inery, 
without any capital alteration. In this metho(!, 
Oiie perpendicular leader is trained from the stem, • 
at the side of which, to the right and left, the 
ramifications spring. Soon after the growing sea- 
son has commenced, such rising shoots, as are 
either in fruit or fit to be retained, or are eligibly 
placed for mother-bearers next season, are laid in, 
either horizontally, or with a slight diagonal rise, 
at something less than a foot distance, me;isuriug; 



HORTICULTURE. 



291 



from one bearing shoot to the next: the rising 
shoots, intended to form young wood, should be 
taken as near the origin of the branch as a good 
one oftei-s, to allow ot cutting away, beyond tlie 
adopted lateral, a greater quantity of the branch, 
HS it becoi.ies old wood; the new-sprung laterals, 
not wanted for one of these two objects, are pinch- 
ed off. The treatment of tliose retained, during 
the rest of the summer, thus differs: — As t.ie shoots 
in bearing extend in growth, tliey are kept stopped 
about two eyes beyond the fruit: — the coronate 
shoots, cultivated merely to enlarge the provision 
of wood, are divested of embryo bunches, if they 
show any; but are trained at full length as they ad- 
vance during the summer, until they reach the al- 
lotted bounds. In the winter-pruning, tliere will 
thus be a good choice of mother-bearers. That 
nearest the origin of the former is retained, and 
the others on the same branch are cut away : the 
rest of the branch is also taken off, so that the old 
wood may terminate with the adopted lateral: the 
adopted shoot is then shortened to two, three, four, 
or more eyes, according to its place on tiie vine, 
its'own strength, or the strength of the vine. The 
lower shoots are pruned in the shortest, in order 
to keep tlie means of always supplying young wood 
at the bottom of the tree. 

Second method. 

The second method is to head the natural leader, 
80 as to cause it to throw out two, three or more 
principal shoots; these are trained as leading 
branches; and in the winter-pruning ai-e not re- 
iluced, unless to shape thera to the limits of the 
house, or unless the plant appears too weak to sus- 
tain ifiem at length. Laterals from these a^e cul- 
tivated about twelve inches apart, as mothtir-bear- 
ers; those in fruit are stopped in summer, aiid af- 
ter the fall of the leaf are cut into one or two eyes. 
From the i.ppearance of the mother-bearers, thus 
shortened, this is c:dled spur-pruning. 
Thir J method. 

The third plan seems to flow from taking the 
second as a foundation, in having more than one 
aspiring leader; and from joining the superstruc- 
ture of the first system immediately to this, in re- 
serving well-placed shoots to come in as bearing 
wood. Thus, supposing a stem, which has been 
headed, to send up four vigo"ous competing lead- 
ei-s, two are suffered to bear fruit, and two are di- 
vested of such buds as break into clusters, and 
trained to the length of 10, 12, 15 feet, or more, 
for mother-bearers, which have borne a crop, are 
cut down to within two eyes of the stool or legs, 
according to the strength of the plant; while the 
reserved shoots lose no more of their tops than is 
necessary to adjust them to the trellis. 
To prune vines to advantage. 

In pruning vines, leave some new branches every 
year, and take away (if too many) some of the 
old, which will be of great advantage to the tree, 
and much increase the quantity of fruit. Wlien 
you trim your vine, leave two knots, and cut thera 
off the next time; for usually the two buds yield a 
bunch of grapes. Vines, thus pruned, have been 
known to bear abundantly, whereas others, that 
have been cut close to please the eye, have been 
almost barren of fruit. 

To mature grapes by incision of the vine bark. 

It is not of much consequence in what part of 
the tree the incision is made; but in case the "^runk 
is very large, the circles ought to be made in the 
smaller branches. All shoots, which come out 
from the root of the vine, or from the front of the 
trunk, situated below the incision, must be remov- 
et" as often as they appear, unless beating wood is 
particularly wanted to fill up the lower part of the 
wall in which case one or two shoots may be left. 
2 N 



Vines growing \n forcing houses are equally im- 
proved in point of size and flower, as well as made 
to ripen earlier, by taking away circles of bark 
The time for doing this is when the fruit i.s set, 
and the berries are about the size of small shot. 
The removed circles may here be made wider than 
on vines growing in the open air, as the bark is 
sooner renewed in forcing houses, owing to the 
warmth and moisture in those places. Half an 
inch will not be too great a width to take off in a 
circle from a vigorous growing vine; but 1 do not 
recommend the operation to be performed at ail in 
weak trees. 

This practice nay be extended to other fruits, 
so as to hasten their maturity, especially figs, »n 
which there is a most abundant flow of returning 
sap; and it demonstrates to us, wh}' old trees are 
more disposed to bear fruit than young ones. Mil- 
ler informs us, that vineyards in Italy are thought 
to improve every year by age, till tliey are 50 years 
old. For as trees become old, the returning ves- 
sel3 do not convey the sap into the roots with the 
same facility the)' did when young. Thus, by oc- 
casionally removing circles of bark, we only antici- 
pate the process of nature. In both cases, a s*ag- 
nation of the true sap is obtained in the fruiting 
branches, and the redundant nutriment then passes 
into the fruit. 

It often happens after the circle of bark has been 
removed, a small portion of the inner bark adheres 
to the alburimm. It is of the utmost importance 
to remove this, though ever so small, otherwise, 
in a very short space of time, the communication 
is again established with the roots, and little or no 
effect produced. Therefore in about ten days aftei 
the first operation has been performed, look at the 
part from whence tlie bark was removed, and sepa- 
rate any small portion which may have escaped the 
knife the first time. 

To prevent the dropping off of grapes. 

Make a circular incision in the wood, cutting 
away a ring of bark, about the bre:\dth of the 
12th of an inch. The wood acquires greater size 
about the incision, and the operation accelerates 
tlie maturity of the wood, and that of the fruit 
likewise. The incision should not,be made too 
deep, and further than the bark, or it will spoil 
both in the wood and the fruit. 

To retard the sap. 

At "certain periods, preventing or retarding the 
mounting of the sap, tends to produce and ripen 
the fruit. An abundance of sap is found to increase 
the leaf buds and decrease the flower buds. A pro- 
cess to retard sap has long been employed in the 
gardens of Montreuil. The practice is to divari- 
cate the sap as near the root as may be, by cutting 
off" the main stem, and training two lateral branch- 
es, from which the wall is to be filled. — Another 
process of interrupting the rising of the sap, by 
separating the bark, has been long in practice in 
vine-forcing houses; this is done when the grapes 
are full grown, and is found to assist the bark in 
diminishing the aqueous, and increasing the sac- 
charine juice. 

To destroy insects in vines. 

The red spider is the grand enemy to the vine; 
after every winter's pruning and removal of the 
outward rind on the old wood, anoint the branches, 
shoots and trellis, with the following composition, 
the object of which is the destruction of their eggs 
or larvse: — 

Soft soap, 2 lbs. flour of sulphur, 2 lbs. leaf of 
roll tobacco, 2 lbs. nux vomica, 4 oz. turpentine, 
1 English gill. 

Boil the above in 8 English gallons of soft river 
water, till it is reduced to six. 

Lay on this composition, milk war. a, with a 



298 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



painter's brush: then with a sponge carefully anoint 
every branch, shoot, and bud; being- sure to rub it 
well into every joint, hole, and angle. If the 
house is much infected, the walls, flues, rafters, 
&.C. are also to be painted over willi the same 
liquor. Watering over the leaves and fruit at all 
times, except the ripening season, is the preventive 
recommended, and which all gardeners approve. 
To protect grapes from tvasps. 
Plant near the grapes some yew-trees, and the 
watps will so far prefer the yew-tree berries, as 
wliolly to neglect the grapes. 

7'o take off siiperjluous suckers from shrubs. 
Many flowering shrul)S put ort strong suckers 
from the root, such as lilacs, syringa, and some of 
the kinds of roses, which take greatly from the 
strength of the mother plant, and which, if not 
wanted for the purpose of planting the following 
season, sliould be twisted off, or otherwise de- 
stroyed. 

To renovate old apple trees. 
Take fresli made lime from the kiln, slake it 
well with water, and well dress the tree with a 
brush, and the insects and moss will be completely 
destroyed, the outer rind fall ofl", and a new, 
smooth, c'ear, healthy one formed, and the tree 
assume a most healthy appearance and produce 
the finest fi'uit. 

Treatment of apple trees. 
The limbs of apple trees are recommended by 
some to be brushed all over in the midst of sum- 
mer: but it is difficult to brush the branches of 
trees when the fruit is upon them. Instead of 
Drushing the trees in summer, as soon as the leaves 
lave fallen, every tree should V.e caiefuUy and 
freely pruned, this will open a passage to the sun 
and ail-, and will contribute to health in the future 
season. In addition to this, says a correspondent 
of the Monthlj' Magazine for 1820, 1 should re- 
commend brushing otf the moss and cutting out 
the cankered parts at any season this is convenient, 
and 1 further recommend the tree to be anointed 
some feet frora the ground with a composition of 
sulphur and goose oil, and, unless the orchard is 
ploughed, which is very much the case in Shrop- 
shire and Herefordshire, the soil should be opened 
at the roots. 

To render neto pippins productive. 
To render it more hardy, the fari-ia of the pip- 
pin should be introduced to the flower of the Sibe- 
rian crabb, whereby a mule is produced, which 
ripens in cold and exposed situations, yet retaijis 
the rich flavour of the other parent. But these 
hybrid, or mule productions, in a lew generations 
return to the character of the one or the other va- 
riety. A most excellent variety of this apple, call- 
ed the Downtou pippin, has been obtained by 
ititroducing the farir.a of the golden to the female 
flower of the orange pippin, ind the progeny is 
more hardy than either parent. 

To obtain early fruit by exhibiting the trees. 
Mr Knight, having trained the branches of an 
apple tree against a southern wall, in winter 
loosened them to their utmost, and in spring, when 
the flower-buds began to appear, the branches were 
again trained to the wall. Tlie blossoms soon ex- 
panded, and produced fruit, which early attained 
perfect maturity; and, what is more, the seeds from 
their fruits aft'orded plants, which, partaking of the 
quality of the parent, ri-pened their fruit very con- 
siderably earlier than other treer. raised at the same 
time frora seeds of the same fruit, which had grown 
in the orchard. 

To hasten the ripening of luall-fruit. 
Painting the wall with black paint, or laying a 
composition of the same colour, produces not only 
more in quantity, in the proportion of ti ve to three, 



but the quality is also superior in size and llavour 
to that which grows against the walls of the natura 
colour. But the trees must be clear of insects, or 
n»ey will thrive, from the same cause, more than 
the fruit. 

To preserve plants from frost. 

Before the plant has been exposed to the sun, or 
thawed, after a night's frost, sprinkle it well with 
spring- water, in which sal-ammoniac or common 
salt has been infused. 

To engraft the coffee tree. 

Plant in small iiampers, during the rainy season,> 
young plants raised by seed, when they are from 
12 to 18 inches high. Place them in the shade, 
until they are quite recovered, then i-emove them 
in the hampers, respectively, to the foot of the 
cofi^ee trees chosen for the mother plants, which 
ouglit to be of the most healthy and productive 
kind. 

These latter should be cut down to within 3 or 
4 inches of the ground, to make them tlirow out 
new wood near their roots. It is those shoots which 
are grafted, when they are about a foot or 15 in- 
ches long, upon the seedling plants in the hampers 
placed round the mother plants. Tlie han>pers 
should be in part buried in tlie ground, to preserve 
the earth within them moist. 

There are several ways of performing the opera- 
tion of grafting; but we shall give only the two 
following, which seem most likely to answer the 
purpose, without calling upon the cultivator to 
pursue too complex a process: — 

1st. Draw together the stem of the plant in the 
hamper, and one of the branches of the mother 
plant. Then make a longitudinal incision on each 
of them, of the same length: bring the two in- 
cisions together, so that one wound covers the 
other; bind them firmly together, and finally cover 
them with a mixture of clayey earth and cow dung. 
It would be useful to cut off the top of the |)lant in 
the hamper, in order to lorce the sap into the 
branch of the mother plant. 

2d. Draw together the tree in the hamper and 
the branch of the mother plant, as before; and take 
ofl" from 3 to 8 inches of the head of the former. 
Then make a triangular incision upon this cut, and 
a similar one on the branch of the mother plant, 
to unite the two wounds; make them fast together, 
and cover them with the same composition as be- 
fore; then place the brancli upright by means of a 
prop, when the parts are firmly knit together, 
cut the branch away from the mother plant, and 
the engrafting is completed. 

Young trees, thus engrafted, after remaining one 
or two years in the nursery, should be removed to 
the plantation they are designed for. Th'S method 
is highly useful to the fruit trees which Qo not pro- 
pagate, with all their best qualities, by means of 
seed. In the same manner, excellent varieties of 
spice trees may be raised from plants propagated 
by seed. 

To preserve fruit trees in blossom from frost. 

Surround the trunk of the tree in blossom with 
a wisp of straw or hemp. The end of this sink 
by means of a stone tied to it, in a vessel of spring 
water at a Utile distance frora the tree. One ves- 
sel will conveniently serve two trees; or the cord 
•nay be lengthened so as to surround several before 
its end is plunged into the water. It is necessaiy 
that the .esse! should be placed in an open situa- 
tion out of the reach of any shade, so that the frost 
may produce all its eriects on the water by means 
of the cord communicating v/:th it. 

Cliinese mode of propagating fndt trees. 
Strip a "ing of bark, about an inch in width, 
from a bearing branch, surround the place with a 
ball of fat earth, or loam, bound fast to the branci) 



HORTICULTURE. 



299 



with a piece of matting: over this tr.ey suspend a 
pot or horn, -with water, having a small hole in the 
bottom just sufficient to let the water drop, in or- 
der to keep the earth constantly moist. The 
hranch throws new roots into the earth just above 
the place where the ring of bark was sti-ipped 
off. The operation is performed in the spring, 
and the brancli is sawn ofi' and put into the ground 
at the fall of the leaf. The following year it will 
bear fruit. 

This mode of propagating, not only fruit trees 
but plants of every description, received particular 
attention from the editor while in China, and has 
since been practised by him in this country with 
never failing success. The mode he has adopted 
is this: — A common tin cup has a round hole 
punched in the bottom, a little larger than will 
admit the stem of the branch it is intended to re- 
ceive. A slit is tlien to be made from the edge 
down one side and along the bottom to the central 
aperlore. The two sides can thus be separated so 
as to let in the brancli without injury; it is then 
closed up, the cup filled with loom mixed with 
chopped moss, and another cup or gourd pierced 
with a small iiole suspended from a branch above. 
This is to be kept filled wiiti water. The time to 
do this is in the spring just before the sap rises. 
In the fall the limb, as before stated, is to be taken 
off below the cup and planted, with all the earth 
that adheres to the roots. 

7 'o lieal Tvozmds in trees. 

This method consists in making a varnish of 
common linseed oil, rendered very drying, by 
boiling it for the space of an hour, with an ounce 
of litharge to each pound of oil, mixed with cal- 
cined bones, pulverized and sifted, to the consis- 
tence of an almost liquid paste. With this paste 
the wounds are to be covered, by means of a brush, 
after the bai'k and other substance have been pared, 
so as to render the whole as smooth and even as 
possible. The varnish must be applied in dry 
weather, in order that it may attach itself properly. 
Coniposilioii for healing -wouncls in trees. 

Take of dry pounded chalk, 3 measures; and of 
common vegetable tar, 1 measure; mix them tho- 
roughly, and b'oil them, with a low heat, till the 
composition becomes of the consistency of bees- 
wax; it may be preserved for use in this state for 
any length of time. If chalk cannot conveniently 
be got, dry brick-dust may be substituted. After 
the broken or decayed limb has been sawed off, 
the whole of the saw cut must be very carefully 
pared away, and the roug.i edges of the bark, in 
particular, must be made ijuite smooth: the doing 
of this properly is of great consequence; then lay 
on the above composition, liot, about the thickness 
of half-a-croKvn, over the wounded place, and over 
the edges of the surrounding bark; it should be 
spread with a hot trowel. 

To p, opagate herbs by slips and cuttings. 
Many kinds of pot-herbs may, in July, be pro- 
pagated by cuttings or slips, which may be planted 
out to nurse on a shady border for a few weeks, or 
till they have struck root, and may then be planted 
out where they are to remain. If made about the 
middle, or end of the month, they will be ready 
for transplanting before the end of August, and in 
that case will be well established before the winter. 
The kinds are marjoram, mint, sage, sorrel, tansy, 
■•srragons, and thyme. 

'Jo prevent t/ie growlli of -weeds round young fruit 
trees. 
To diminish the growth of weeds i-ound fruit 
trees, spread on the ground round the fresh trans- 
planted trees, as far as the roots extend, the refuse 
stalks of flax after the fibrous parts have been sepa- 
r.Ued. This gives them very surprising vigour, as 



no weeds will grow under flax refuse, and the earth 
remains fresh and loose. Old trees treated in the 
same manner, when drooping in an orchard, will 
recover, and push out vegerian shoots. In place 
of flax stalks, the leaves' which fall from trees in 
autumn may be substituted, but they must be co- 
vered with waste twigs, or any thing else that can 
prevent the wind from blowing them away. 
To avoid the bad effects of iron nails, ^c'. onfrvil 
trees. 

It often happens that some of the limbs of fruit 
trees, trained against a wall, are blighted, and die; 
while others remain in a healthy and flourishing 
state. This has hitherto been erroneously attribu- 
ted to the effects of lightning; but from closer ob- 
servation, and from several experiments, it has 
been found to arise from the corroding tlfects of 
the nails and cramps with which trees in this situa- 
tion are fastened. To avoid this inconvenience, 
therefore, it requires only to be careful in jjrevent- 
ing the iron from coming in contact with the bark 
of the trees. 

To destroy moss on trees. 

Remove it with a hard scrubbing brush in Feb- 
ruary and March, and wash the trees with cow 
dung, urine, and soap-suds. 

To protect trees and shmbs from the attack of 
hares. 

Take three pints of melted tallow to one of tar, 
and mix them well together, over a gentle fire. In 
November, take a small brush, and go over the 
rind or bark of the trees with a mixture, in a milk 
warm state, as thin as it can be laid on with the 
brush. This coating will not hinder the juices or 
sap expanding, in the smallest degree. Its efficacy 
has been proved, by applying the liquid to one tree 
and missing another, when the latter has been at- 
tacked, and the former left. During five years' 
experience, of the besmeared, the first two years, 
not one was injured afterwards. If all the bark 
were properly gone over with the mixture, they, 
probably, would not need any more for some years. 
To prevent the propagation of insects on apple 
trees. 

Let a hard shoe brush be applied to every infected 
limb, as if it were to coach harness, to get ott" the 
dirt, after which, with the tin box and brush, give 
the limbs a dressing, leaving Ihem exposed to the 
sun, to inhale the efficacy of the application. This 
should be repeated occasionally during the sum- 
mer, choosing always a- dry time, and warm clear 
sunshine. 

To prevent the ravages of the gooseberry caterp I 
lar. 

The only remedy is by placing something about 
the stem, or among ihe branches of the bush, the 
smell jf which is obnoxious to flies, and which 
they will not appi'oach; the smell of coal-tar is 
said to keep off" the caterpiJars; the fact is, that 
it kept off" the fly. The practice is to wiap a beam 
or twist of seed, strongly impregnated with this 
strong-scented bitumen, round the stem of the 
bush: and no caterpillar will touch a leaf. 

Other remedies are used, such as soap-suds 
thrown over the bushes, lime, chimney-soot, and a 
strong decoction of elder-leaves; but who can eat 
gooseberries and currants after they liave been be- 
saieared with such filthy materials? keeping oflT the 
f_ by the smell of something which is disagreea- 
ble to it, goes to the root of the evil at once, and 
there is nothing in tlie smell of coal-tar which cao 
excite a prejudice in the most delicate stomach. 
Another method. 

A few small pits or holes, from 12 to 15 inches 
deep, being dug among the bushes, at convenient 
distances, ail the surface mould immediately under 
and near to the bushes, wherein the greatest quan- 



300 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



tity of shells is likely to be deposited, is taken off 
with a common garden hoe, and buried in these 
noles or pits; after which the -whole surface is 
carefully dug over, to a considerable depth. 
Wherever these operations are properly perform- 
ed, no apprehension of loss from this kind of c%ter- 
pillar need be entertained. 

To cure the disease in apple trees. 
Brush oS'the white down, clear off the red stain 
underneath it, and anoint the places infected with 
a liquid mixture of train oil and Scotch snuff. 
Another method. 
Orchards are occasionally much injured by an 
insect appearing like a white efflorescence; when 
bruised between the fingers it emits a blood red 
fluid. Mix a quantity of cow-dung with human 
urine, to the consistence of paint, and let the in- 
fected trees be anointed with it, about the begin- 
ning of Mi^rch. 

To cure the canker in apple trees. 
The only means of preventing the canker worm, 
which destroys the young fruit, and endangers tlie 
life of the tree, when discovered, and which in 
many instances has proved to be effectual, was en- 
circling the tree, about knee high, with a streak 
of tar, early in the spring, and occasionally adding 
a fresh coat. 

In other trees. 
Cut them off to the quick, and apply a piece of 
sound bark from any other tree, and bind it on 
with a flan;.el roller. Cut off the canker, and a 
new shoot will grow strong, but in a year or two 
you will find it cankered. 

To cure idcers in elm trees. 
The remedy consists in boring every tree at- 
tacked by the disease, at the ulcer itself; and in 
applying a tube to the hole occasioned by the 
borer, penetrating about 9 lines in depth. The 
sound trees, whicli are also bored, afford no liquor, 
whereas those that are ulcerated afford it in great 
abundance, increasing particularly in fine weather, 
^nd when the wound is exposed to the south. 
Stormy weather, and great winds, stop the affu- 
sion. In this manner the ulcers dry and heal in 
48 hours. 

To cleanse orchard trees by lime. 
The use of lime has been highly recommended in 
the dressing of old moss-eaten orchard trees. 
Some fresh made lime being slaked with water, 
and some old worn out apple-trees well dressed 
with it with a brush, the result was, that the in- 
sects and moss were destroyed, the outer rind fell 
off, and a new, smooth, clear, healthy one formed; 
the trees, although 20 years old, assuming a most 
healthy appearance. 

To cure blight in f nut trees. ■ 
A smothering straw-fire should be made early in 
October, in calm weather, under each tree, and 
kept up during an nour or more. This done, 
scrape the moss and other impurities from the 
trunk, and from every obscure hole and corner; set 
your ladders to the branches, carefully cleaning 
them in the same way, taking from the i-eraaining 
leaves every web, or nidus, of insects. If need be, 
wash the trunk, and all the larger wood, with a so- 
lution of lime and dung. Last of all, it is neces- 
sary to destroy the insects, or eggs, which may 
have dropped upon the ground, and may be use*"nl 
to loosen the soil in the circumference. In the 
spring, or early blighting season, apply your lad- 
ders, make a careful survey of eveiy degree, and 
act in consequence; j-epeat this monthly, picking off 
all blights by hand, and using the water engine 
where ablution may be necessary. To those who 
have fiuit, or the market profit, thereof, every 
orchard or garden, little or great, will amply repay 
such trouble ^nd expense. 



Another method. 
Trees newly transplanted, in general, escape <*• 
attacks, when other trees, of the same kind ol 
fruit, grown in the same situation, have been neart. 
destroyed. Peach and nectarine trees should b 
dug up, once in every five or six years, and replant 
ed with fresh mould. By this method, a large 
quantity of fruit of a s iperior kind will be ob 
tained. The covering of trees with mats, bj 
almost totally depriving them of light, has a ten 
dency to create blight, which often attends an ex 
cess of heat or cold. 

To presei've apple trees from blight. 
By washing the branches with quick lime it will 
preserve the trees from blight, and insure a crop; 
those which escaped washing suffered from the 
blight, whilst the others produced a good crop. 
To prevent the blight or mildexv from injuring 
orchards. 
Rub tar well into the bark of the apple trees 
about four or six inches wide round each tr_e, and 
at about one foot from the gi-ound. This effectually 
prevents blight, and abundant crops are the conse- 
quence. 

To prevent mildeiv on fruit trees. 
Take one quart of watky (a kussiaii spirit pre- 
pared from the distillation of rye, and resembling 
in every respect the whiskey of Scotland), two 
pounds of powdered sulphur; two ounces of cop- 
peras, and a small quantity of camphor.' Dissolve 
first the camphor, reduced to powder, gradually in 
the spirit, then dissolve also the copperas in it; 
then rub in gradually the powdered sulphur into 
the solution, when the whole will fi)rm a mixture 
of a thickish consistence. The fruit trees, in the 
springof the year, immediately after Isciiig cleaned 
and tied up, are to have llieir trunks nnd all their 
branches completely covered with tliis mixture, 
by means of a large painter's brush. 

'To prevent mildexu on peach trees. 
I In the months of January and February, if the 
trees are in a stunted or sickly state, take away all 
the old mould from the roots as carefully as possi- 
ble, and put in its place fresh rotten tuif from aa 
old pasture, without any dung; and the trees will 
not only recover their health, but produce a crop 
of fine swelled fruit. 

To prevent gumming in fruit trees. 
To prevent gumming, or the spontaneous exuda- 
tion of gum from the trunks of fruit trees, which 
injures, to a considerable extent, the growth and 
strength of the tree. 

Take of horse dung i»ny quantity, mix it well up 
with a quantity of clay and a little sand, so as to 
make a composition; then add ;; quantity of pitch 
tar (what is put upon cart wheels), and form a wet- 
tish composition of tlie whole. The fruit trees, iu 
the spring of the year, after they are cleaned and 
tied up, are to have their trunks and stems com- 
pletely bedaubed or covered with this uiixture. 
To cidtivate the cucumber. 
To produce cucumbers at an early season, is an 
object of emulation with every gardener; and there 
is scarcely any person, who has not his cucumber- 
bed in his garden. Cucumbers are forced in hot- 
beds, pits, and hot-houses, and the heat of tire, 
steam, and dung, have been applied to their cul- 
ture; but dung is the only thing yet found out, 
by the heat of which the cucumber may be advan- 
tageously cultivated. 

Soil. 
Cucumbers, like every other plant, will grow in 
any soil, though not with the same degree of vigour 
provided they be supplied with a sufficiency of 
heatj light, water, and air. 

I'or early forcing. 
Abererorabie recommends a moidd or compos'- 



HORTICULTURE. 



301 



of the following materials: — One -third of rich top- 
spit earth, from an upland pasture, one-half of ve- 
getable mould, and one-sixth of well decomposed 
horse dung, with a small quantity of sand. 

MuPhail used vegetable mould, made from a 
mixture of the leaves of elm, lime, beech, syca- 
more, horse and sweet chesnut, spruce and Scotch 
fir, walnut, laurel, oak, evergreen, oat, ash, &c. 
and amon;jj them withered grass, and weeds of 
various sons. This vegetable mould is preferable 
to any p»Ser. 

Compost used in Kew warden. 
Of light loam, a few months from the common, 
one-third part; the best rotten dung, one-third part; 
leaf mould, and lieath earlh, equal parts, malting 
together one-third part; the whole well mixed for 
use. 

To form the seed. 
If one light frame will be large enough for ordi- 
narj- purposes, choose a di-y sheltered part of tlie 
melon ground, and form a bed. When liigh winds 
are suffered to blow ag;iinsl a cucumber bed, they 
have a very powerful effect on it; llierefore, when 
a cucumber bed is about to be formed, the first ob- 
ject of consideration should he, to have it sheltered 
from the high winds and boisterous stormy wea- 
ther. Having put on the frame, and waited till 
ihe bed is fit for moulding, lay in 5 or 6 inches 
depth of the proper earth or compost. 
Sowing. 
Abercrombie sows sjme seeds in the layer of the 
earth, which he spreads over the bed, putting them 
in half an inch deep. He also sows some seeds in 
two, three, or more smaH pots, of the same kind 
of earth, which may be plunged a little into that of 
the bed. 

To raise plants from cuttings. 
Instead of raising cucumber plants from seed, 
they may be raised from cuttings, and thus kept on 
from year to year, in the following manner: — take 
a shoot which is ready for stopping, cut it ofFbelow 
the joint, then cut smooth the lower end of the 
shoot or cutting, and stick it into fine leaf or other 
rich mould, about an inch deep, and give it plenty 
of heat, and siiade it from the rays of the sun till 
it be fairlj' struck. Hy this method, cucumber 
plants may readily be propagated. 

Treatment till removed to the fndting bed. 
After sowing, continue the glasses on the frame; 
giving occasional vent above for Lhe steam to eva- 
porate. The plants will be up in a few days, when 
it will be proper to admit air daily, but more 
guardedly, at the upper ends of the lights. In 
frosty weather, hang part of a mat over 'he aper- 
ture. When the plants are a little advanced, with 
the seed leaves about half an inch broad, take them 
up, and prick some in small pots of light earth, 
previously warmed by the heat of the bed. Put 
three plants in each pot, and insert them a little 
slopingly, quite to the seed-leaves. Plunge the 
pots into the earlh; and prick some plants also into 
the earth of the bed. Give a very little water just 
to the roots; the water should be previously warm- 
ed to the temperature of the bed. Draw on the 
glasses; but admit air daily, to promote the growth 
. of lhe plants, as well as to give vent to the steam 
rising in the bed, by tilting the lights behind, from 
half an inch to au inch or two high, in proportion 
to the heat of the bed, and the temperature of the 
weather. Cover the glasses every night with gar- 
den mats, and "emove them timely in the morn- 
ing. Give twice a week, once in two days, or 
daily, according to the season, a vei-y light water- 
ing. Keep up a moderate lively heat in the bei, 
Dy requisite linings of hot dung to the sides. 
To guard the seeds from mice. 
Lay a pane of glass over the pot or pan till they 



have come up, and afterwards, at night, cover with a 
pot of equal size, till the seed-leaves have expand- 
ed, and the husks have di-opped; for, until then, 
the plants are liable to be destroyed. The cover, 
however, should always be removed by sun-rise, 
and be replaced in the evening. It is at night 
these vermin generally commit their depredations. 
No air need be admitted till the heat begins to 
rise, and steam begins to ajipear; but after that, the 
light should be tilted a little eveiy day, in whatever 
siMte the weather may be, until the plants break 
ground. Air must then be admitted with more 
care; and if frosty, or very chill, tiie end of a mat 
should be hung over the opening, that the air may 
sift through it, and not immediately strike the 
plants. 

To transplant cucumbers. 

As soon as the seed-leaves of the plants are ful» 
'.y expanded, transplant them singly into pots of 
the 48th size, and give a little water and air night 
and day. The temperature for seedlings is from 
65 to 75 degrees. With this neat and water, as 
the earlh in the pots becomes drj', and a little air 
night and day, so as to keep the internal air in the 
frame sweet and fluctuating between the degrees 
of heat above-mentioned, the plant will be fit for 
finally transplanting out in one month, that is, by 
the 14th of November, into the fruiting frames. 
To form t:.e fruiting bed. 

Begin to make preparations for the fruiting-bed, 
about three weeks before the plants are ready to 
be planted out for good. The (king collected, af- 
ter being well worked, is made up into a bed ol 
about 4 or 5 feet high, and the frames and lights 
set upon it. It is afterwards suffered to stand for 
a few days, to settle, and until its violent heat be 
somewhat abated, and when it is thought to be in 
a fit state for the plants to grow in, its surface is 
made level, and a hill of mould laid in just under 
the middle of each light, and when the mould gets 
warm the plants are ridged out in it. After this, 
if the bed has become perfectly sweet, and there 
be heat enough in it, and the weather proves fine, 
the plants will grow finely. 

To plant out. 

When the temperature is ascertained to be right, 
bring the plants in their pots; turn over the hills 
of mould, forming them again properly, and then 
proceed to planting. Turn those in pots clean 
out one at a time, with the ball of earth whole 
about the roots; and thus insert one patch of three 
plants which have grown together, with t.ie ball 
of earth entire, into the middle of each hill, earth- 
ing them nearly around the stems. Also iny not 
in pots, having been pricked into the ear>..i of the 
bed, if required for planting, may be taken up 
with a small ball of earth, and planted similarly. 
With water warmed to the air of the bed, give a 
very light watering about the roots, and shut 
down the glasses till next morning. Shade the 
plants a little from the mid-day sun a few days, 
till they have taken root in the hills,'and cover the 
glasses every evening with large mats, which 
should be taken off in the morning. 

Mc Phail's method of covering the frames. 

First, lay clean single mats on the lights m 
length and breadth, nearly to cover the sashes, 
taking care not to suffer any part of the mats to 
hang over the sashes on or above the linings, for 
that would be the means of drawing the steam into 
the frames in the night time. On these mats 
spread equally a covering of soft hay, and on the 
hay lay another covering of single mats, upon which 
are laid two, and sometimes three or four, rows 
of boards, to prevent the covering from being 
blown off by the winds. The mats laid on next 
to the glass are merely to keep the seeds and dust 

2 •'S 



302 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



which mny happen to be in the hay from getting 
into the frames among the plants. If the bed be 
high, in covering up, steps or short holders must 
be used by those wViose office it is to cover and un- 
cover; and great care must be taken not to bieak 
or injure the glass. 

Setting the fndt. 

The cucumber bears male and female blossoms 
distinctly on the same plant. The latter only pro- 
duce the fruit, which appears first in miniature 
close under the case, even before the flower ex- 
pands. There is never any in the males; but 
these are placed in tl>e vicinity of the females, and 
are absolutely necessary, by the dispersion of 
their farina, to impregnate the female blossom; 
the fruit of which will not, otherwise, swell to its 
full size, and the seeds will be abortive. The 
early plants under the glass, not having the full 
current of the natural air, nor the assistance ot 
bees and other winged insects to convey the farina, 
the artificial aid of the cultivator is necessary to 
effect the impregnation. 

At the time of fructification, watch the plants 
daily; and as soon as a female flower and some 
male blossoms are fully expanded, proceed to set 
the fruit tlie same day. Take off a male blossom, 
detaching it with part of the foot-stalk; hold this 
between the finger and thumb; pull away the flow- 
er-leaf close to the stamens and central part, which 
apply close to the stigma of the female flower, 
twirling it a little about, to discharge thereon 
some particles of the fertilizing powder. Proceed 
thus, to set every fruit, as the flowers of both sorts 
open, while of a lively full expansion; and gene- 
rally perform it in the early part of the day, using 
a fresh male, if possible, for each impregnation, as 
the males are usuall)' more abundant than the fe- 
male blossoms. In consequence, the young fruit 
will soon be observed to swell freely. Cucum- 
bers attain the proper size for gathering in about 
15 or 20 days from the time of setting; and often, 
in succession, for two or three months or more, in 
the same bed, by good culture. The above artificial 
operation will be found both necessary and effectual 
in forcing the cucumber, between the decline 
of autumn and May, wiiile the plants are mostly 
shut under glass. In plants, more fully exposed 
to the free air, the impregnation is effected mostly 
or wholly by nature. 

To save the seed. 

Select some best summer fruit, from good pro- 
ductive plants; which permit to continue in full 
growth till they become yellow. Then cut them 
from the vine, and place them upright on end, in 
the full sun, for two or three weeks; when they 
may be cut open, and the seed being washed, out 
from the pulp, spread it to dry and harden; then 
put it up in papers or bags for future sowmg. It 
will remain good many years; and seed of three 
or four years' keeping is preferable for early frame 
crops. 

Insects and diseases. 

The thrips sometimes attacks early cucumbers, 
and is to be destroyed by fumigation. Tfie red 
spider rarely makes its appearance; when it does, 
water must have been improperly withheld. Some 
soils produce canker in the shoots, especially 
where they branch from the main stem. When 
this is the case, the only resource is to renew tlie 
soil and the plants. 

To groiu cucumbers U7ider hand glasses. 

The following method is given by Mc Phail 
as that generally practised: — The seeds are sown 
about the middle of April in a cucumber or melon 
bed, and when they come up they are potted out 
vnto small pots, two or three plants in each, and 
kept properly watered, and stopped at the first or 



second joint. About the middle of May, a warm 
situation, where the mould is very rich, is pitched 
on, and a trench dug out about 2 feet deep, 3 broad, 
and the length proiiortioned according to the num- 
ber of lights it is intended for. Tliis breacli is 
filled v/ith good warm dung, and \i hen the (hing 
is come to its full heat, it is coven-d over with 8, 
10, or 12 inches deep of rich mould. Tlie ghisses 
are then set upon it about 3 feet distant from 
each other, and when the mould gets warm under 
them, the plants are turned out of the pCcS, witli 
their balls whole, and plunged in the mould under 
the glasses, and a little water given them to settle 
the mould about their roots, the glasses set over 
them, and after they have made roots, and begin 
to grow, in fine days they are raised a little on one 
side to let the plants have fi-ee air; and, as the 
weather gets warmer, air is given more plenti- 
fully, to harden the plants, so that they may be 
able to bear the open air, and run from under 
the glasses. When the plants begin to fill the 
glasses, they are trained out horizontally, and the 
glasses set upon bricks to bear them from the 
plants. After this the plants rerjcire nothing more 
than to be supplied with water when the summer 
showers are not sufiicient, and to stop them when 
they run too thin of branches, and thin them of 
leaves or branches when they are likely to be 
over crowded. 

In warm summers, and in warm situations, by 

this mode of management, the plants will bear 

plentifully for about two months, provided they be 

not attacked by insects or weakened by diseases. 

To prevent the irregular groxvth of melons. 

Melons frequently, in certain situations, lose 
their circular form, and grow larger on one side 
than the other, and those mis-shapen fruits are 
always bad. To remedy this, take a small forked 
stick, in proportion to the size of the melon, and 
thrust it into the ground as nearly as possible to 
the tail of the fruit, taking the precaution to lay a 
little moss between the two prongs, and suspend 
the melon to the fork. In a few days the melon 
will resume its form, when the fork may be le- 
moved, and the operation is finished; the quality 
of the fruit remains undiminished. 
To produce mushrooms. 

If the water wherein mushrooms have been 
steeped or washed be poured upon an old bed, or 
if the broken parts of mushrooms be strewed 
thereon, there will speedily arise great numbers. 
To produce new potatoes througliout the -winter 
months. 

Prepare a proper quantity of red sand, rather of 
a loamy nature, and mix it up with a portion of 
lime in powder; viz. about one-third, about 14 days 
before using it. This soil is to be spread about 3 
inches thick at the bottom of any old wooden box, 
or on a very dry brick cellar floor — the cellar ought 
not to be exposed to the frost, nor yet too much 
confined from the air. Procure a measure or two 
of large potatoes of a prior year's growth; the sorts 
preferred are, the red apple potatoes, and the pink 
eyes of purple potatoes. Set these on the soil 
whole, about 3 inches apart, with the crown or the 
principal eye to the soil in preference; but put no 
soil over them. Plant about the 20th of Septem- 
ber, which allows from 10 to 12 weeks for their 
growth; the old potatoes also throw out numerous 
sprouts or stalks, with many potatoes growing on 
them. The original potatoes for planting whole, 
for sets in September, should be such as were of 
perfect growth in the October of the preceding 
year, and well preserved during the winter. The 
s-prouts which shoot from them should be removed 
by the end of April, and these sprouts, which will 
be from 6 to 26 inches long, may be planted witl- 



HORTICULTURE. 



303 



all their fibres in a garden, for a first crop; about 
June 15, the potatoe sets may be sprit again, and 
the sprouts planted for a second crop — and in Sep- 
tember, the potatoe sets may ha sprit a third time, 
and the sprouts of the last produce thrown away 

as useless at the end of September, the original 

or seed potatoe is to be gently placed on the soils 
as before mentioned for a Christmas crop. At the 
end of 3 months at farthest, the old potatoes should 
be carefidly twisted from the new ones, and the 
sprouts taken off the old ])Otatoe, and the old po- 
tatoe is then to be placed on its bottom or side, on 
a fresh bed of soil prepared as before, and left to 
produce another crop from fresh eyes placed next 
the soil: as you are to observe, that the old pota- 
toe should not be set or placed twice on the same 
side, and you must take care at that time to remove 
the sprouts, to prevent the moisture from rotting 
the old potatoe. By the above method may be 
had 4 crops of new potatoes from one potatoe, ex- 
clusive of those produced from the sprouts planted 
in the garden in April and June, from which may 
he obtained 2 crops of well grown potatoes in Sep- 
tember and October, weighing from 10 to 12 ounces 
each — the crops were very plentiful in proportion 
to the quantity planted. 

The potatoes are remarkably well flavoured, and 
may be kept longer without prejudice after gather- 
ng, before dressed, than potatoes grown in the 
natural ground. 

To raise peas in autumn. 

The purple-flowered peas are found to answer 
hest for a late crop in autumn, as they are not so 
liable to be mildewed as many of the other sorts, 
and will continue flowering till the first crop stops 
them. Those peas may be sown in July, August, 
or so late as the first week in September, if sown 
in a -warm sheltered situation, and in a soil inclin- 
ing to sand. — Soak the peas in warm milk, and 
after you have drawu the drills, water them before 
you sow the peas: it is best to sow them towards 
the evening. If the autumn should ^rove very dry, 
they will require frequent watering. When peas 
are sown before winter, or early in spring, they 
are very apt to be eaten by mice. To prevent this, 
soak the peas for a day or two in train oil before 
you sow them, which will encourage their vegeta- 
tion, and render them so obnoxious to the mice, that 
they will not eat them. 

To soil) peas in circles instead of straight rows. 

It is a great error in those person's who sow the 
rows of tall-growing peas close together. It is 
much better, in those sorts which grow six or eight 
feet high, to have only one row, and then to leave 
a bed, ten or twelve feet wide, for onions, carrots, 
or any crops which do not grow tall. The advan- 
tages which will be derived are, that the peas will 
not be drawn up so much, be stronger, will flower 
much nearer the ground, and in wet weather can 
be more easily gathered without wetting you. but 
insteiul of sowing peas in straight rows, if you will 
form the ground into circles of three feet diameter, 
with a space of two feet between each circle, in a 
row thirty feet long, you will have six circles of 
peas, each nine feet, in all fifty-four feet of peas, 
instead of thirty, on the same extent of ground. 
If you want more than one row of circles, leave a 
bed of ten or twelve feet before you begin another. 
For the very tall sorts, four feet circles will afford 
more room for the roots to grow m, and care must 
be taken, by applying some tender twigs, or other 
support, to prevent the circles from joining each 
other. This method iTfequally applicable for scar- 
let beans. 

Toprevent mice from destroying early sovm peas. 

The tops of furze, or whins, chopped and thrown 

into the drills, and thus covered up, by goading 



them in their attempts to scratch, is an effectual 
preventive. Sea sand, strewed pretty thick upon 
the surfiice, has the same effect. It gets in their 
ears and is troublesome. 

To cultivate common garden rhubarb. 

It is not enougli to give it depth of good soil, 
but it must be watered in draught; and in winter 
must be well coverecj with straw or dung. If this 
be attended to, your rluibarb will be solid when 
taken out of the ground, and your kitchen, if a 
warm one, when cut into large pieces, will soon 
fit it for use. 

To force rhubarb. 

Cover plants of the rheum hybridum with com- 
iTion garden-pots (number twelve,) having tlieir 
holes stopped. These are covered with ferment- 
ing dung, and the plants come verj fine and quick- 
ly, but are much broken by tlie sides and tops of 
the pots. After it is all well up, the dung and 
pots are entirely taken off, and large hand-^dasses 
are substituted in their stead, thickly covered witii 
mats every night, and in dull weather. This pro- 
cess greatly improves their flavour, and gives a 
regular supply till that in"the open air is ready for 
use. 

Another method. 

Inclose and cover the bed with open frame-work 
around, and on which place the dung, and with 
this treatment, the rhubarb will come up, very 
regularly, be of excellent quality, and want far less 
attention than is required by the former method; 
for the frame-work renders hand-glasses, or anv 
other cover, unnecessary. Care should be taken 
to lay the dung in sucli a manner that the top may 
be partly or wholly taken off at any time for the 
pui'pose of gathering or examination, without dis- 
turbing the sides. 

Tiiis is a superior method of forcing the rheum 
hybridum; but still the forcing b}' pots will answer 
very well for any of the smaller growing species. 
Third method. 

To those who dislike the trouble of either frames 
or pots, it may be useful to know that rhubarb will 
come in much quicker, by being covered about six 
inches thick, with light litter; care should be taken 
in putting it on, and removing it, that no injury be 
done to the plants. 

To dry rhubarb. 

The best method of drying rhubarb, is to strip 
it oft" its epidermis. This is a long operation, but 
both time and expense are spared in the end by the 
promptness and regularity of the drying. Many 
cultivators of rhubarb, on a large scale, have re- 
peated the experiment, and have met with the 
most decisive results. 

To cure rhubarb. 

The method of curing the true rhubarb is as 
follows:— Take the roots up when the stalks are 
withering or dying away, clean t'.em from the 
earth with a dry brush, cut them in small pieces 
of about 4 or 5 inches in breadth, and about 2 in 
depth, taking away all the bark, and make a hole 
in the middle, and string them on pack thread, 
keeping every piece apart, and every morning, if 
the weather is fine, place them in the open part 
of the garden on stages, erected by placing small 
posts, about 6 feet high, in the ground, and 6 feet 
asunder, into which fix horizontal pegs, about a 
foot apart, beginning at the top; and the rhubarb 
being sprung crosswise on small poles, place ttiem 
on these pegs; so that if it should rain, you could 
easily remove each pole with the suspended pieces 
into any covered place. Never suffer them to be 
out at night, as the damp moulds them. 
To cidtivate onions. 

Never use the hoe to the plant except it be tor 
clearing the ground from weeds. When the onions 



304 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



have shot out their leaves to their full size; and 
when they begin to get a little brown at the top, 
clear away all the soil from the bulb down to the 
ring, from whence proceed the fibres of the roots, 
and thus form a basin round each bulb, which 
catches the rain and serves as a receptacle for the 
water, from the watering-pot. The old bulbs will 
then immediately begin to form new ones, and if 
tliey are kept properly moist, and the soil is good, 
the^ cluster will be very large and numerous. This 
is not the only advantage of this mode of treatment, 
as the bulbs thus grown above ground are much 
sounder than those formed beneath the surface, and 
will keep quite as well as any other sort: which was 
not the case until this plan was adopted. 

By a particular mode of culture, the onion in 
this country may be grown nearly in form and size 
like those from Spain and Portugal. The seeds 
of the Spanish or Portugal onion should for this 
purpose be sown at the usual period in the spring, 
very thickly, and in poor soil, under the shade of 
npple or pear trees. In autumn the bulbs will not 
be much larger than peas, when they should be 
taken from the soil and preserved until the suc- 
ceeding spring, and then planted at some distance 
from each other, in a good soil, and exposed to the 
sun. The bulbs will often exceed 5. inches in 
diameter, and will keep throughout the winter 
much better than those cultivated in the usual 
manner. 

The Portuguese mode to cultivate onions. 

They must*first be raised on a nursery bed, in 
the warmest and most sheltered part of the garden, 
as early in the month of February as the season 
will permit; as soon as the plants are strong enough 
to bear removal, that is to say, when they are sbout 
the thickness of a goose-quill, let some puddle be 
prepared with garden mould and water, with a 
small proportion of soot, the whole to be of the 
consistence of thick cream; as the plants are di-awn 
from the seed-bed, let their roots be instantly im- 
mersed in the puddle, and there remain till they 
are transplanted, where they are permanentlj' to 
continue. The plants should be set out about six 
inches apart, and the ground kept perfectly clear 
of weeds, and regularly r'efreshed with water in 
hot and dry weather. On this latter circumstance 
will very much depend their size and mildness; to 
this is owing the supei-iority of onions grown in 
Portugal, which are all cultivated in the way here 
recommended. By keeping the roots in puddle, 
if it were only for a few minutes, during tlie in- 
terval between the taking up and transplanting, 
they are prevented from receiving the slightest 
check from the access of the atmospheric air, and 
will require no immediate watering when first 
transplanted. 

To obtain a good crop of onions. 

In order to obtain a good crop of onions, it is 
proper to sow at different seasons, viz. in light 
soils, in August, January, or early in February; 
and, in heavy wet soils, in March, or early in 
April. Onions, however, should not be sown in 
January, unless the ground be in a dry state, which 
is not often the case at so early a period of the sea- 
son: but if so, advantage should be taken of it. 
To cultivate asparagus. 

That part of the garden which is longest exposed 
to the sun, and least shaded by shrubs and trees, is 
to be chosen for the situation of tf;e asparagus 
quarter. A pit is then to be dug 5 feet in depth, 
and the mould which is taken from it must be sift- 
ed, taking care to reject all stones, even as low in 
size as a filbert nut. The best Qfirts of the mould 
must then be laid aside for making up the beds. 

The materials of the bed are then to be laid in 
the following proportion and order:— 



Six inches of common dung-hill manure, — 8 
inches of turf, — 6 inches of dung as before,— 6 
inches of sifted earth, — 8 inches of turf, — 6 inches 
of very rotten dung, — 8 inches of the best earth. 

The best layer or earth must then be well mixed 
with the last of dung. 

The quarter must now be divided into beds five 
feet wide, by paths eonstr-ucted of turf, two feet in 
breadth, and one in thickness. The aspavagus 
must be planted about the end of March, 18 inches 
asunder. In planting them, the bud, or top of the 
shoot, is to be placed at the depth of an inch and a 
half in the ground, while the roots must be spread 
out as wide as possible, in the form of an umbrella. 
A small bit of stick must be placed as a mark at 
each plant, as it is laid in the ground. As soon as 
the earth is settled and dry, a spadeful of fine sand 
is to be thrown on each plant, in the form of a 
mole-hill. If the asparagus plants should have be- 
gun to shoot before their transplantation, the 
young shoots sh"uld be cut ofl^, and the planting 
will, with these precautions, be equally successful^ 
though it siiould be performed in this country even 
as late as July. Should any of the plants originally 
inserted have died, they also ma}^ be replaced at 
this season. The plants ought to be two years old 
when they are transplanted; they will even take at 
thi-ee, but at four they are apt to fail. 

In three years the largest plants will be fit to cut 
for use. If the buds be sufficiently large to furnish 
a supply in this manner, the asparagus shoots should 
be cut as fast as they appear; otherwise they must be 
left till the quantity required has pusiied forth; in 
which case the variety in colour and size prevents 
them from having so agreeable an appearance. An 
iron knife is used for this purpose. 

The asparagus bed now described will generally 
last thirty years; but if they be planted in such 
abundance as to require cutting only once in twen* 
ty-seven years, half the bed being always in a state 
of reservation, it will last a century or more. The 
turf used in making the beds should be >ery free 
from stones. 

Another method. 

Make the bed quite flat, 5 -feet wide, of good 
soil, without any dung, long orshort:sow it with 
onions. Then sow two asparagus seeds (lest one 
should fail) about 1 inch deep, near each other: 1^ 
inches each way sow two more; and if the spring 
is cold and dry let the weeds grow until i-ain 
comes. In October, cover the bed with manure, 
or i-otten hot-bed. Tiie next spring remove the 
weakest of the two plants, and keep the bed free 
from weeds. To raise seed, select the thickest 
stems: after blossoming sufficient, take off the tops, 
to make the seed strong. This is also ihe best way 
to raise double ten-weeks' and Brompton stocks. 
Six pounds are sufircient for any strong plant: set* 
ting them to flower near double ones is of no use. 
Tne excess in petal arises from cultivation, and 
transplanting into rich soil: wild flowers are sel- 
dom double. Keep all small seeds in the pod 
until you sow them. 

lo force asparagus. 

The pits in which succession pines are kept in 
the summer have at bottom a layer of leaves about 
18 inches deep, covered with the same thicknesa 
of tan, which becomes quite cold when the pines 
are removed. In one of the pits should be spread 
over the entire surface of the old tan a quantity of 
asparagus roots, and cover it with six inches more 
of tan, and apply linings Qjt'hot dung, and succes- 
sively renew it round the sides, keeping up thereby 
a good heat. The above mode was practised in thd 
middle of December, by Mr William Ross, and in 
five weeks the crop was fit for use. As soon as the 
shoots made their appearance, and during the day» 



HORTICULTURE 



305 



time, he took off the lights, introducing as much 
air as possible, which gave them a good natural 
colour, and the size was nearly as large as if they 
had been produced in the open ground, at the usual 
season. 

To insure perfect success, it is expedient to 
have good roots to place in the bed; the usual plan 
of taking them from the exhausted old beds of the 
garden, is bad. If they are past their best, and 
unfit to remain in the garden, they cannot be in a 
good state for forcing. Young roots, four years 
old from the seed, are much preferable: they are 
costly if they are to be purchased every year; 
but where there is sufficient space, a regular sow- 
ing for this particular purpose should be made an- 
nually, and thus a succession of stock secured. 
To render asparagus more productive. 
In the formation of beds the male plants only 
should be selected, which may easily be done by 
not planting from the seed-bed until they have 
flowered. When the plants are one year old, 
transplant them into the other beds, at six inches 
distance; let them remain there until they flower, 
which will be in most of them in the second year; 
put a small stick to each male plant to mark them, 
and pull up the females, unless it is wished to 
make a small plantation with one of tliem, to prove 
the truth of the experiment. 

Towards the end of July, especially if it be rainy 
weather, cut down the stalks of the asparagus, fork 
up the beds, add rake them smooth. If it be dry, 
water them with the draining of a dung-hill; but, 
nistead of leaving them round, leave them rather 
jlat or hollow in the middle, the better to retain the 
.vater or rain. In about twelve or fourteen days 
the asparagus will begin to appear, and if it be dry 
weather, continue watering once or twice a week. 
By this method asparagus may be cut about the end 
of September; at which time the hot-beds wih suc- 
ceed this, so that by making five or six hot-beds 
during the winter, a regular succession of it may 
ue had every month of the year. 
To raise capsicum, and inake Cayenne pepper. 
Capsicum pepper is produced from the capsi- 
cum, which is raised for ornament, with many 
other annual flowers, or for pickling the green 
pods, and is the seed and pod when ripe. In 
March or April procure some pods of any of the 
sorts of capsicums, as there are many varieties of 
them of different shapes; take out the seeds, and 
sow them on a bed not too thick. When they are 
about four inches high, prick them out on the hot- 
bed at six inches asunder; or put each into a small 
pot, or three into a large one, and keep them still un- 
der the glasses. In June,whentheweather is settled, 
plant them all in a warm, situation, in a rich earth, 
■where they are to remain, some on the borders of 
the flower garden, and some into larger pots, which 
you can shelter in bad weather. 

To cultivate the Jlljmie stratoberry . 
The process consists of sowing the seed on a 
moderate hot-bed in the beginning of April, and 
removing the plants, as soon as they have acquired 
sufficient strength, to beds in the open ground. 
They will begin to blossom after midsummer, and 
iiffbrd an abundant, late autumnal crop. This 
strawberry ought always to be treated as our an- 
nual plants. 

To cultivate sea kail. 
The seed is to be sown in the month of April in 
drills, on a good light di-y soil; as the plants rise, 
ihin them, and keep them cle&n. The first winter, 
earth them up to protect them from the frost; the 
following summer thin them to about eighteen 
inches distance, leaving the best plants. At Christ- 
mas, take away the decayed leaves, and cover up 
each plant with a large deep pan or flower-pot, npon 



which lay a quantity of the leaves of tree, to keep 
off the frost, and create heat to the plants. Stable 
htter IS sometimes used instead of /eaves, but it is 
apt to give the plants a rank taste. In the follow- 
ing month of April, the pots will be quite full of 
fine tender blanched shoots, which may be cut over 
by the ground (but not too near) and the stumps 
covered up again for a second crop: this may be 
repeated with the same plants two or three times 
during the spring, before the plants are left for 
summer's growth. With this treatment the sea 
kail, if sufficiently boiled in two waters, will be 
found equal to any asparagus or brocoli, and may 
be eaten with butter, or butter and vinegar, and 
pepper, as may suit the taste. The plant being a 
perennial one, will last for any length of time with 
jiroper culture. 

To cultivate radishes to have them at all seasons. 
Take seeds of the common radish, and lay them 
in rain water to steep for 24 hours; then put them 
quite wet into a small linen bag, well tied at the 
mouth with a packthread. If you have steeped a 
large quantity of seeds, you may divide them intc 
several bags. Then expose the bags in a place 
where they will receive the greatest heat of the sun, 
for about 24 hours, at the end of which time the 
seed will begin to grow, and you may then sow it 
in the usual manner, in earth well exposed to the 
heat of the sun. Prepare two small tubs to cover 
each other exactly. These may be easily provided, 
by sawing a small cask through the middle, and' 
they will serve in winter; in summer one will be 
sufficient for each kind of earth that has been 
sown. As soon as you have sown your seeds you 
must cover them with your tub, and at the end of 
three days, you will find radishes of the sizfe and 
thickness of young lettuces, having at their extre- 
mities two small round leaves, rising from the 
earth, of a reddish colour. These radishes, cut or 
pulled up, will be excellent, if mixed with a salad, 
and they have a much more delicate taste than the 
common radishes which are eaten with salt. 

By taking the following precautions you may 
have them in the winter, and even during the hard- 
est frosts: after having steeped the seeds in warm 
water, and exposed them to the sun as alreadv di- 
rected, or in a place sufficiently hot to make them 
shoot forth, warm the two tubs; fill one of them 
with earth well dunged: sow your seeds, thus pre- 
pared, in one of them, and cover it witli the other 
tub; you must then be careful to sprinkle it with 
warm water as often as may be necessary. Then 
carry the two tubs closely joined, taking care they 
cover each other, into a warm vault or cellar, and 
at the end of 15 days you may gather a fine salad. 
To increase potage herbs. 
The manzel worzel would, if permitted to run 
up, grow to a great height, and afford a good 
plucking of potage vegetables twice a week in win- 
ter (only). It must be planted late, but may con- 
tinue in the ground two or three years, when its 
roots will be wasted, the herbage be'coKie«w««it,i,, 
and it must be renewed by seed. 
To guard cabbages from the depredations of cater- 
pillars. 
Sow with hemp all the borders of the ground 
wherein the cabbage is planted; and, although the 
neighbourhood be infested with catsrnlUars. the 
space inclosed by the hemp will be perfectly iree, 
and not one of these vermin will approach it. 
To banish the red spider. 
Cut off the infected leaf. The leaf once attacked 
soon decays and falls off; but in the mean time the 
animals remove to another, and the leaf, from the 
moment of attack, seems to cease to perform its 
office; but persevere in the amputation, and the 
plants become healthy. 

2/2 2 



306 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



To stop the ravages of caterpillars from shrubs, 
plants, and vegetables. 
Take a chafing dish with' lighted charcoal, and 
place it under the hranches of the tree, or bush, 
whereon are the caterpfillars: then throw a little 
brimstone on the coals. The vapour of the sul- 
phur, which is mortal to these insects, and the suf- 
focating fixed air arising from the charc( al, will 
not only destroy all that are on the tree, but will 
effectually prevent the shrubs from being, at that 
season, infested with them. A pound of sulphur 
will clear as many trees as grow on several acres. 

Another method of driving these insects off fruit 
trees, is to boil together a quantity of rue, worm- 
wood, and common tohacco (of each equal parts), 
in common water. The liquor should be very 
strong. Sprinkle this on the leaves and young 
branches every morning and evening during the 
time the fruit is ripening. 

To destroy insects on plants. 
Tie up some flowers of sulphur in a piece of 
muslin or fine linen, and with this the leaves of 
young shoots of plants should be dusted, or it may 
be thrown on them by means of a common swans- 
down puff, or even by a dredging-box. 

Fresh assurances have repeatedly been received 
of the powerful influence of sulphur against the 
whole tribe of insects and worms which infest and 
Drey on vegetables. Sulphur has also been found 
to promote the health of plants, on which it was 
sprinkled; and that peach trees in particular were 
remarkably improved by it, and seemed to absorb 
It. it has been likewise observed, that the verdure, 
and other healtliful appearances, were perceptibly 
increased; for the quantity of new shoots and 
leaves formed subsequently to the operation, and 
having no sulphur on their surfaces, served as a kind 
of comparative index, and pointed out distinctly 
the accumulation of health. 

To cultivate the sun-flotuer. 
The sun-flower, kidney-beans, and potatoes, 
mixed together, agree admirably; the neighbour- 
hood of the sun-flower proving advantageous to the 
potatoe. It is a well authenticated fact, that, with 
careful attention, the sun-flower will make excel- 
lent oil. 

The marc, or refuse of the sun-flower, after the 
oil is expressed, may be prepared as a light viand 
for hogs and goats, pigeons and poultry, which will 
banquet on it to satiety. Query, would it not make 
good oil cakes for fattening pigs? if brought into 
notice, it might become an object of magnitude. 
Forty-eight pounds of sun-flower will produce 
twelve pounds of oil. In fine, I esteem it as 
worthy of consideration: for 1st. In the scale of 
excellence, it will render the use of grain for feed- 
ing hogs, poultry, pigeons, &cc. completely unne- 
cessary. 2. As it resembles olive oil, would it not 
be found, on examination, competent to supply its 
place? whatever may be the points of diff"erence, it 
certainly may be serviceable in home consumption 
and manufactures. 3. Its leaves are to be plucked 
as they become yellow, and dried. 4. It affords an 
agreeable and wholesome food to sheep and rab- 
bits. To goats, and rabbits, the little branches are 
a delicious and luxurious gratification, as is also the 
disc of the pure flower, atter the grains have been 
taken out. Rabbits eat the whole except the 
woody part of the plant, which is well adapted for 
the purpose of fuel. 5. Its alkalic qualities appear 
to deserve notice, forty-eight quintals yield eighty 
pounds of alkali, a produce four times superior to 
that of any other plant we are acquainted with, 
maize excepted. 6, Might it not be used as a ley? 
And minuter observation might convert it into 
soap, the basis of both being oil. 

Dig and trench about it, as both that and the 



potatoe love new earths. Let the rows be 20 
inches distant from each other, and it will be ad- 
vantageous, as the turnsole loves room. 

Three grains are to be sown distant some inches 
from each other and when their stems are from 
eight to twelve inches high, the finest of the three 
only to Lie left. Two tufts of French beans to be 
planted with potatoes. The French beans will climb 
up the sides of the sunflower, which will act and 
uniformly support like sticks, and the sun-flower 
will second this disposition, by keeping off the 
great heat from the potatoe, and produce more 
than if all had been planted with potatoes. 

Each sun-flower will produce one or two pounds, 
and the acre will bring in a vast amount, or con- 
tain one thousand pounds, being one-third more 
than grain. 

To economize the sun fioiver. 
The cultivation of the annual sun-dower is re- 
commended to the notice of the public, possessing 
the advantage of furnishing abundance of agreea- 
ble fodder for cattle in their leaves. When in 
flower, bees flock from all quarters to gather honey. 
The seed is valuable in feeding sheep, pigs, anc* 
other animals: it produces a striking effect in 
poultry, as occasioning them to lay more eggs, and 
it yields a large quantity of excellent oil by pres- 
sure; the dry stalks burn well, the ashes affording 
a considerable quantity of alkali. 

To remove herbs andflovrers in the^ summer. 
If you have occasion to transplant in the sum- 
mer season, let it be in the evening after the beat 
is passed; plant and water the same immediately, 
and there will be no danger from the heat next 
day; but be careful in digging up the earth you do 
not break any of the young shoots, as the sap v'li 
exude out of the same, to the great danger n£ [he 
plants. 

Method of groiving flotoers in -winter. 
In order to produce this effect, the trees or 
shrubs being taken up in the spring, at the time 
when they are about to bud, with some of their 
own soil carefully preserved among the roots, 
must be placed upright in a cellar till Michael- 
mas; when, with the addition of fresh earth, they 
are to be put into proper tubs or vessels, and pla- 
ced in a stove or hot-house, where they must every 
morning be moistened or refreshed with a solution 
of half an ounce of sal-ammoniac in a pint of rain 
water. Thus, in the montli of February, fruits or 
roses will appear, and with respect to flowers in 
general, if they are sown in pots at or before Mi- 
chaelmas, and watered in a similar manner, they 
will blow at Christmas. 

To preserve -wood from insects. 
In the East Indies aloes are employed as a varnish 
to preserve wood from Avorms and other insects; 
and skins, and even living animals, are anointed 
with it for the same reason. The havoc commit- 
ted by the white ants, in India, first suggested the 
trial of aloe juice to protect wood from them, for 
which purpose the juice is either used as extracted, 
or in solution by some solvent. 
To preserve young shoots from slugs and earwigs. 
Earwigs and slugs are fond of the points of the 
young shoots of carnations and pinks, and are very 
troublesome in places where they abound; to pre- 
vent them they are sometimes insulated in water, 
being set in cisterns or pans. If a pencil dipped in 
oil was drawn round the bottom of the pots once 
in two days, neither of these insects, or ants, would 
attempt them. Few insects can endure oil,_and 
the smallest quantity of it stops their progress. 
Vegetable liquor to hasten the blowing o_f bulbous 
rooted flowers. 
Take nitre, three ounces, common salt, one 
ounce, pot-ash, one ounce, sugar, half an ounce 



HORTICULTURE. 



SOI 



rain water, one pound., Dissolve the salts in a 
gentle heat, in a glaajed earthen pot, and when the 
solution is complete, add the sugar, and filter the 
whole. Put about eight drops of this liquor into 
a glass jar, filled with rain or river water. The 
jars must be kept always full, and the water re- 
moved ever}- ten or twelve days, adding each time 
a like quantity of the liquor: the flowers also must 
be placed on the corner of a chimney-piece, where 
a fire is regularly kept. l"he same mixture may 
be employed for watering flowers in pots, or filling 
the dishes in which they are placed, in order to 
keep the earth or the bulbs or plants which they 
contain in a state of moisture. 

To restore Jlo-wers. 

Most flowers begin to droop and fade after being 
kept dnring twenty-four hours in water; a few may 
be revived b}' substituting fresh water; but all (the 
most fugacious, such as poppy, and perhaps one or 
two others excepted), may be restored by "-he use 
cf hot water. For tliis pui-pose place the flowers 
in scalding water, deep enonghto cover about one- 
third of the length of the stem: by the time the 
water has become cold, the flowers will have be- 
come erect and fresh; then cut off" the coddled ends 
of the stems, and put them into cold water. 
To preserve flotuer seeds. 

Those who are curious about saving flower seeds 
must attend to them in the month of August. 
Many kinds will begin to ripen apace, and should 
be carefully sticked and supported to prevent them 
from being shaken by high winds, and so partly 
lost. Others should be defended from much wet: 
sucli as asters, marygolds, and generally those of 
the class syngenesia; as from the construction of 
their flowers they are apt to rot, and the seeds to 
mould in bad seasons. Whenever they are thought 
ripe, or indeed any others in wet weather, they 
should be removed to an airy shed or loft, gradu- 
ally dried, and rubbed or beat out at conveniency. 
When dried wrap them up in papers or in tight 
boxes containing powdered charcoal. 

To improve all sorts of seeds. 

Charles Miller, son of the celebrated botanist, 
published a recipe for fertilizing seed, and tried it 
on wheat, by mixing lime, nitre, and pigeons' dung 
in water, and therein steeping the seed. The pro- 
duce of some of these grains is stated at 60, 70, 
Bnd 80 stems, many of the ears 5 inches long, and 
60 corns each, and none less than 40. 

To preserve seeds for a long' time. 

When seeds are to be preserved longer than 
the usual period, or when they are to be sent to a 
great distance, sugar, salt, cotton, saw dust, sand 
paper, &c. have been adopted with different de- 
grees of success. Chinese seeds, dried by means 
of sulphuric acid, in Leslie's manner, may be af- 
terwards preserved in a vegetating state for any 
necessary length of time, by keeping them in an 
airy situation in common brown paper, and occa- 
sionally exposing them to the air on a fine day, 
especially after damp weather. This method will 
succeed with all the larger mucilaginous seeds 
Very small seeds, berries, and oily seeds, may 
probably require to be kept in sugar, or among 
eurrants or I'aisins. 

To preserve exotic seeds. 

■ Five years ago, says a correspondent of the 
Monthly Magazine, 1 had a collection of seeds 
sent me from Serampoore, in the East Indies, 
which have been since that period kept in small 
bottles, in a dry situation, without corks; last 
spring some of them were sown, and produced 
strong healthy plants, under the following system; 
but if taken from the bottles and sown in the ordi- 
nary way, I have found them either to fail alto- 
gether, or to produce germination so weak that the 



gi-eatest care can never bring them to any perfec- 
tion. 

1 have long observed that oxygen is necessary to 
animal and vegetable life, and that soil, which has 
imbibed the greatest proportion of that air or gas, 
yields the strongest germination, and with the least 
care produces the best and most healthy plants: 
imder that impression, I prepare the soil, by adding 
to it a compost made from decayed vegetables, 
night soil, and fresh earth, well mixed together 
and turned several times; but should the weather 
be dry, I have generally found the compost better 
by adding water tq keep it moist. On the evening 
before I intended to sow the seeds, I have immers- 
ed them in a weak solution of oxygenated muriatic 
acid, and suffered them to ramain until they begun 
to swell. 

By pursuing this treatment even with our En- 
glish annual seeds, I am gratified with an earlier 
germination, and with generally stronger and more 
healthy plants. 

To dry foiuers. 
They should be dried off" as speedily as possible, 
the calyles, claws, &c. being previously taken 
off^; when the flowers are very small, the calyx is 
left, or even the whole flowering spike, as in the 
greatest portion of the labiate flowers; compound 
flowers, with pappous seeds, as coltsfoot, ought to 
be dried very high, and before they are entirely 
opened, otherwise the slight moisture that remains 
would develope the pappi, and these would form a 
kind of cottony nap, which would be very hurtful 
in infusions, by leaving irritating particles in the 
throat — Flowei's of little or no smell may be dried 
in a heat of 75 to 100 deg. Fahr. the succulent 
petals of the liliaceous plants, whose odour is very 
iugaceous, cannot well be dried; several sorts of 
flowering tops, as those of lesser centaury, lily ot 
the valley, wormwood, mellilot, water germander, 
&c. are tied up in small parcels and hung up, or 
exposed to the sun, wrapped in paper cornets, that 
they may not be discoloured. The colour of the 
petals of red roses is preserved by their being 
quickly dried with heat, after which the yellow 
anthers were separated by sifting; the odour of 
roses and red pinks is conside»5ibly increased by 
drying. 

To dry tops, leaves, *r luhole herbs. 
They should be gatherer in a dry season, cleans- 
ed from discoloured an^i rotten leaves, screened 
from earth or dust, placed on handles covered with 
blotting paper and exposed to the sun, or the heat 
of a stove, in a dr;- airy place. The quicker they 
are dried the be^er, as they have less time to fer- 
ment or growaiouldy; hence they should be spread 
thin and freiuently turned; when dried they should 
be shaken in a large meshed sieve to get rid of the 
eggs of any insects. Aromatic herbs ought to be 
dried quickly with a moderate heat, that their 
odrur may not be lost. Cruciferous plants should 
pjt be dried, as in that case they lose all their an- 
tiscorbutic qualities. Some pei-sons have proposed 
to dry herbs in a water bath, but this occasions 
them, as it were, to be half boiled in their own 
water. 

To dry roots. 
They should be rubbed in water to get rid ot 
the dirt and also some of the mucous substance 
that would otherwise render them mouldy — the 
larger are then to be cut, split, or peeled; but in 
most aromatic roots, the odour residing in the bark, 
they must not be peeled; they are tlieu to be spread 
on sieves or hurdles, and dried in a heat of about 
120 deg. Fah. either on the top of an oven, in a 
stove, or a steam closet, taking care to shake them 
occasionally to change the surface exposed to tho 
air. Thick and juicy roots, as rhubarb, briony. 



308 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



piony, Avater-lily, Sec. are cut in slices, strung upon 
a thread, and hung in a heat of about 90 to 100 
deg. Fahr Squills are scaled, threaded and dried 
round the tube of a German stove, or in a hot 
closet. Rhubarb should be washed to separate that 
mucous principle which would otherwise render 
it black and soft when powdered. Potatoes are 
cut in slices anJ died to form a sago. 
To preserve roots. 
These are preserved in different ways, according 
to the object in view. Tuberous roots, as those 
of the dahlia, pteonia, tuberose, &c. intended to 
be planted in the succeeding spring, are preserved 
through the winter in dry earth," in a temperature 
rather under than above what is natural to them. 
So may the bulbous r->ots of commerce, as hya- 
cinths, tulips, onions, &c. but for convenience, 
these are kept either loose, in cool dry shelves or 
lofts, or the finer sorts in papers, till the season of 
planting. 

Roots of all kinds may be preserved in an ice- 
house till the return of the natural crop. 

After stufling tiie vacuities with straw, and co- 
vering the surface of tiie ice vvith the same mate- 
rial, place on it case boxes, dry ware casks, bas- 
kets, Sec. and fill tl»em with turnips, carrots, beet 
roots, and in particular, potatoes. By the cold of 
the place, vegetation is sj much suspended, that 
all these articles may be thus kept fresh and un- 
injured, till they give place to another crop in its 
natural season. 

To gather vegetables. 
Tliis is, in part, performed with a knife, and 
nart by fracture or torsion with the hand. In all 
cases of using the knife, the general principle of 
cutting is to be attended to, leaving also a sound 
section ou the living plant. Gathering with the 
hand ought to be done as little as possible. 
To preserve vegetables. 
This is effected in cellars or slieds, of any tem- 
perature, not lower, nor much above the freezing 
point. TKus cabbages, endive, chiccory, lettuce, 
&c. taken ou\ of the ground with their main roots, 
in perfectly dry weather, at the end of the season, 
and laid in, or phrtially immersed in sand or di^ 
earth, in a close sliied, cellar, or ice-cold room, 
will keep through the winter, and be fit for use 
till spring, and often ti"J the return of the season 
of their produce in the garden. 

1 'ime fo r gat/ming fruits. 
This should talie place in the middle of a dry 
day. Plums readily part fro<n the twigs when 
ripe: they should not be much handled, as the 
bloom is apt to be rubbed off. Atjncots may be 
accounted ready, when the side next the sun feels 
a little soft upon gentle pressure with the finger. 
They adhere firmly to the tree, and wo«ld over- 
ripen on it and become mealy._ Peaches ai4 nec- 
tarines, if moved upwards, and allowed to de!»;end 
with a slight jerk, will separate, if ready; and tli^y 
may be received into a tin funnel lined with velvet, 
so as to avoid touching with the fingers or bruising. 
A certain rule for judging of the ripeness of 
figs, is, to notice when the small end of the fruit 
becomes of the same colour as the large one. 

The most transparent grapes are the most ripe. 
.\11 the berries in a bunch never ripen equally; it 
is therefore uroper to cut away unripe or decayed 
berries before presenting the bunches at table. 

Autumn and winter pears are gathered, when 
dry, as they successively ripen. 

Immature fruit never keeps so well as that which 

nearly approaches maturity. Winter appl .'s should 

be left on the trees till there be danger of frost; 

they are then gathered on a dry day. 

'1 gather orchard fruits. 

]n respect to the time of gathering, the criterion 



of ripeness, adopted by Porsyth, is their beginning 
to fall from the tree. Observe attentively *hen 
the apples and pears are ripe; and do not pick them 
always at the same regular lime of the year, as is 
the practice with many. A dry season will for- 
ward the ripening of fruit, and a wet one retard it; 
so that there will sometimes be a month's cifter- 
ence in the proper time for gathering. If this ia 
attended to, the fruit will keep well, and be plump; 
and not shrivelled, as is the case with all fruit that 
is gathered before it is ripe. 

The art of gathering is to give them a lift, so as 
to press away the stalk, and if ripe, they readily 
part from the tree. Those that will not come off 
easily should hang a little longer; for when tiiey 
come hardly off they will not be so fit to store, 
and the violence done at the foot-stalk may injure 
the bud there formed for tlie next year's fruit. 

Let the pears be quite dry when pulled, and in 
handlin - avoid pinching the fruit, or in any waj 
bruising it, as those which are iiurt not only decay 
themselves, but presently spread infection to those 
near them; when suspected to be bruised, let tiiera 
be carefully kept from others, and used first: as 
gathered, lay them gently in shallow baskets. 
To p7'eserve green fniits. 
Green fruits are generallj' preserved by pickling 
or salting, and this operation is usually performed 
by some part of the domestic establishment. 
'To preserve ripe fintit. 
Such ripe fruit as may be preserved, is generally 
laid up in lofts and bins, or shelves, when in large 
quantities, and of baking qualities; but the better 
sorts of apples and pears are now preserved in a 
system of drawers, sometimes spread out in them, 
at other times wrapped up in papers; or placed in 
pots, cylindrical earthen vessels, among sand, 
moss, paper, chaff, hay, saw-dust, &o. or sealed 
up in air tight jars or casks, and placed in the fruii 
cellar. 

To preserve pears. 
Having prepared a number of earthen-ware jars, 
and a quantity of dry moss, place a layer of moss 
and pears alternately, till the jar is filled, then in- 
sert a plug, and seal around . with melted rosin. 
These jars are sunk in dry sand to the depth of a 
foot; a deep cellar is preferable for keeping them 
to any fruit room. 

Another method. — Choice apples and pears are 
preserved in glazed jars, provided with covers. 
In the bottom of the jars, and between each layer 
of fruit, put some pure pit-sand, which has been 
thoroughly dried. The jars are kept in a dry airy 
situation, as cool as possible, but secure from frost, 
A label on the jar indicates the kind of fruit, and 
when wanted, it is taken from the jars, and placed 
for some time on the shelves of the fruit room. 

In this way colmarts, and other fine French 
pears, may be preserved till April; the terling till 
June: and many kinds of apples till July, the skin 
remaining. 

To preserve apples and pears. 
The most successful method of preserving apples 
and pears, is by placing them jn glazed earthen 
vessels, each containing about a gallon, and sur- 
rounding each fruit with paper. These vessels 
being perfect cylinders, about a foot each in height, 
stand very conveniently upon each other, and thus 
present the means of preserving a large quantity 
of fruit ih a very small room; and if the space bt;- 
t'vveen the Vop of one vessel and the base of another, 
be filled wit\\ a cement composed two parts of the 
curd of skiiK^med milk, and one of lime, by which 
the air will be excluded, the later kinds of apples 
and pears will be preserved with little change in 
their appearance, and without any danger of decay, 
from October till February and March. A dry 



\ 



HORTICULTURE. 



309 



find cold situation, in which there is little change 
of temperature, is the best for the vessels; but tlie 
merits of the pears are greatly inci cased by their 
being taken from the vessels about ten days before 
thev are wanted for use, and kept in a warm room, 
for "warmth at this, as at other periods, accelerates 
the maturity of the pear. 

To preserve various sorts of fruit. 
By covering some soi'ts of cheny, plum, goose- 
beriy, and currant trees, either on walls or on 
bushes with mats, the fruit of the red and white 
currant, and of the thicker skinned gooseberry- 
trees, may be preserved till Christmas and later. 
Grapes, in the open air, may be preserved in the 
yame mannt-r; and peaches and nectarines may be 
kept a month hanging on the trees after they ai'e 
ripe.' 

Arkwright, by late forcing, retains plump grapes 
on his vines till the beginning of May, and even 
later, till the maturity of his early crops. In this 
way, grapes may be gathered every day in the 
year. 

Another method. — But the true way to preserve 
keeping-fruit, such as the apple and pear, is to put 
them in air-tight vessels, and place them in the 
fruit cellar, in a temperature between 32 and 40 
degrees. In this way all the keeping sorts of these 
fruits may be preserved, in perfect order for eat- 
ing, for one year after gathering. 
To store fruit. 
Those to be used first, lay by singly on shelves, 
or on the floor, in a dry southern room, on clean 
dry moss, or sweet diy straw, so as not to touch 
one another. Some, or all the rest, having first 
laid a fortnight singly, and then nicely culled, are 
to be spread on siielves, or on a dry floor. But 
the most superior way is, to paclc in large earthen, 
or China or stone jars, with very dry long moss at 
the bottom, sides, and also between them, if it 
might be. Press a good coat of moss on the top, 
and then stop the mouth close with cork, or other- 
wise, which should be rosined round about with a 
20lh part of beeswax in it. As the object is eff"ec- 
tually to keep out air (the cause of putrefaction), 
the jars, if earthen, may be set on dry sand, which 
put also between, round, and over them, to a foot 
thick on the top. In all close storing, observe 
there should be no doubt of the soundness of the 
fruit. Guard, in time, from frost those that lie 
open. Jars of fruit must be soon used after un- j 
sealing. I 

To keep apples and pears for market. 
■ Those who keep their fruit in store-houses for ' 
the supply of the London and other markets, as 
well as those who have not proper fruit-rooms, may | 
keep thnir apples and pears in baskets or hampers; ; 
putting some soft paper in the bottoms and round j 
the edges of the baskets, &c. to keep the fruit from [ 
being bruised; then put in a layer of fruit', and over I 
that anotiier layer of paper; and so on, a layer of j 
fruit and of paper alternately, till tne basket or 
hamper be full; cover the top with paper 3 or 4 
times double, to exclude the air and frost as much 
as possible. Every different sort of fruit should 
be placed separ<»tely; and it will be proper to fix a 
label to each basket or hamper, with the name of 
the truit that it contains, and the time of its being 
fit for use. 

Another -way. 
But the best way of keeping fruit, is to pack it 
in glazed earthen jars. The pears or apples must 
be separately wrapped up in soft paper, then put a 
little well-dried bran in the bottom of the jar, and 
over the bran a layer of fruit; then a little more 
bran to fill up the interstices between the fruit, and 
to cover it; and so on, a layer of h'uit and bran 
alternately, till the jar be full: tlien shake it gently, 



which will make the fruit and bran sink a little; 
fill up the vacancy at top with a piece of bladder 
to exclude the air; then put on the top or cover of 
the jar, observing that it fits as closely as possible. 
These jars should be kept in a room where there 
can be a fire in wet or damp weather. 

Nieol considers it an errof to sweat anp'.es, pre- 
viously to storingthem. The fruit ever after retains 
a bad flavour. It should never be laid in heaps at 
all; but if quite dry when gathered, should be im- 
mediately carried to the fruit room, and be laid, 
if not singly, at least thin on the shelves. If the 
finer fruits are placed on any thing else than a clean 
shelf, it should be on fine ]iaper. Brown paper 
gives them the flavour of pitch. The fine larger 
kinds of pears should not be allowed even to touch 
one another, but should be laid quite single arid 
distinct. Apples, and all other pears, should be 
laid thin; never tier above tier. Free air should 
be admitted to the fruit-room always in good 
weather, for several hours every day; and in damp 
weather a fire should be kept in it. Be careful at 
all times to extlude frost from the fruit, and occa- 
sionally to turn it when very mellow. 

To preserve fruits orfoivers. 

Mix 1 pound of nitre with 2 pounds of bole 
ammoniac, and 3 pounds of clean common sand. 
In dry weather, lake fruit of any sort, not fully 
ripe, allowing tiie stalks to remain, and put them 
one by one into an open glass, till it is quite full; 
cover the glass with oiled cloth, closely tied down; 
put the glass- 3 or 4 inches into the earth, in a dry 
cellar, and surround it on all sides, to the depth 
of 3 or 4 inches, with the above mixture. This 
method will preserve the fruit quite fresh all the 
year round. 

To preserve raalmits. 

Walnuts for keeping should be suffered to drop 
of themselves, and afterwards laid in an open airy 
place till thoroughly dried; then pack them in jars, 
box^s, or casks, with fine clean sand, that has been 
well dried in the sun, in an oven, or before the fire, 
in layers of sand and walnuts alternately; set them 
in a dry place, but not where it is too hot. In thi'' 
manner, they have been kept good till the la^tter 
end of April. Before sending them to table, wipe 
the sand clean off": and if they have become shri- 
velled, steep them in milk and water for 6 or S 
hours before they are used; this will make them 
plump and fine, and cause them to peel easily. 
To preserve chesmits and filberts. 

The chesnut is to be treated like the walnut, 
after the husk is renloved, which in the chesnut, 
opens of itself. Chesnuts and walnuts may be 
preserved during the whole winter, by covering 
them with earth, as cottagers do potatoes. 

Filberts may always be gathered by hand, and 
should afterwards he treated as the walnut. Nuts 
intended for keeping should be packed in jars or 
boxes of dry sand. 

To preserve meu,^ : and quinces. 

The medlar is not good till rotten ripe, It is 
generally gathered in the beginning of November, 
and placed between two layers of straw, to forward 
its maturation. Others put medlars in a box on a 
three-inch layer of fresh bran, moistened well with 
soft warm water; then strew a layer of straw be- 
tween them, and cover with fruit two inches thick; 
which moisten also, but not so wet as before. In a 
week or tea days after this operation they will be 
fit for use. 

Quinces are gathered in November, when they 

are generally ripe. After sweating in a heap for 

a few days, they are to be wiped dry, and placed 

on the fruit-shelf, at some distance from each other. 

1 pack fruit for carriage. 

If fruit is to be sent to any considerable distance. 



310 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK 



great care should be taken m packing it: it should 
not be done in baskets, as they are liable to be 
bruised among heavy luggage, and the fruit of 
course will be impaired. Forsyth, therefore, re- 
commends boxes made of strong deal, of diflerent 
sizes, according to the quantity of fruit to be pack- 
ed. The following are the dimensions of the boxes 
in which fruit used to be sent by the coach to 
Windsor and Weymouth, for the use of his late 
majesty and the royal family. 

The larger box is 2 feet long, 14 inches broad, 
and the same in depth. The smaller box is one 
foot nine inches long, one foot broad, and the same 
in depth. These boxes are made of inch deal, and 
well secured with three iron clumps at each corner; 
they have two small iron handles, one at each end, 
by which they are fastened to the roof of the coach. 
In these boxes are sent melons, cherries, currants, 
|)ears, peaches, nectarines, plums, and grapes; they 
aro first wrapped in pine leaves, and then in paper. 
The cherries and currants are first packed in a flat 
tin box, one foot four inches long, ten inches broad, 
and four deep. 

In packin.'j, proceed thus: — ^First put a layer of 
fine long dry moss in the bottom of the tin box, 
then a layer of currants or cherries, then another 
layer of moss; and so on, alternately fruit and 
moss, until the box is so full, that when the lid is 
hasped down, the fruit may be so finely packed as 
to preserve them from friction. Then make a 
layer of fine moss, and short, soft dry grass, well 
mixed, in the bottom of the deal box; pack in the 
melons with some of the same, tight in between all 
the rov/s, and also between the melons in the same 
row, till the layer is finished; choosing the fruit as 
nearly ofa size as possible, filling up every inter- 
stice with the moss and grass. When the melons 
are packed, put a thin layer of moss and grass over 
them, upon which place the tin box with the cur- 
rants, packing it firmly all round with moss to 
prevent it from shaking; then put a thin laj'er of 
moss over tlie box, and pack the pears firmly (but 
so as not to bruise them) on that layer, in the same 
manner as the melons; and so on with the peaches 
nectarines, plums, and lastly the grapes, filling up 
the box with moss, that the lid may shut down 
so tight as to prevent any friction among the 
Iruit. The boxes should have locks and two keys, 
which may serve for them all: each of the persons 
who pack and unpack the fruit having a key. The 
moss and grass should always be returned' in the 
boxes, which, with a little addition, will serve the 
whole season; being shaked up and well aired after 
each journey, and keeping it sweet and clean. 
After the wooden box is locked, cord it firmly. 

If fruit be packed according to the above direc- 
tions, it may be sent to the farthest parts of the 
kingdom, by coaches or wagons, wi'h perfect safely. 
Other methods oj packing fniit. 
Fruits of the most delicate sorts' are sent from 
Siiain and Italy to England, packed in jars witn 
suw-ilust from woods not resinous or otherwise ill 
tasted. One large branch of grapes is suspended 
from a twig or pin laid across the mouth of the 
jar, so as it may not touch either the bottom or 
sides; saw-dust or bran is then strewed in, and 
\i hen full, the jar is well shaken to cause it to set- 
tle; more is then added till it is quite full, when 
the supporting twig is taken away, and the earthen 
cover of the jar closely fitted and sealed, generally 
with fine stucco. 

In the same way grapes maybe sent from the 
remotest parts of Scotland or Ireland to the me- 
tropolis. When the distance is less, they may be 
sent enveloped in tine paper, and packed in moss. 
The simplest mode for sl^ort distances is to wrap 
each bunch in fine soft paper, and lay them on a 



proper 



bed of moss in a broad flat basket with a 



Cherries and plums may be packed in thin lay- 
ers, with paper and moss between each. 

Peaches, apricots, and the finer plums, may each 
be wrapped separately in vine or otlier leaves, or 
fine paper, and packed in abundance of cotton, flax, 
fine moss, or dried short grass. Moss is apt to 
communicate its flavour to fine fruits, and so is 
short grass, if not thoroughly dried and sweetened. 
Cotton best preserves the bloom on peaches and 
plums. 

To preset^e grapes. 
Where there are several bundles in one branch, 
it may be cut off", leaving about 6 inches in length 
or more of the wood, according to the distance 
between the bunches, and a little on the outside of 
tlie fruit at each end; seal both ends with common 
bottle wax, then hang them across a line in a dry 
room, taking care to clip out, with a pair of scissars, 
any of the berries that begin to decay or become 
mouldy, which, if left, would tamt the others. In 
this way grapes may be kept till February; but if 
cut before the bunches are too ripe, they may be 
kept much longer. 

Grapes may be kept by packing them in jars 
(every bunch being first wrapped up in soft pajier), 
and covering every layer with bran, well dried, 
laying a little of it in the bottom of the jar; then a 
layer of grapes, and so on, a laver of bran and of 
grapes alternately, till the jar is filled: then shake 
it gently, and fill it to the top with bran, laying 
some paper over it, and covering the top with a 
bladder tied firmly on to exclude the air; then pu( 
on the top or cover of the jar, observing that it fit; 
close. These jars should be kept in a room wheit 
a fire can be kept in wet damp weatlier. 

French method of presei-uing grapes. 
Take a cask or barrel inaccessible to the exter- 
nal air, and put into it a layer of bran dried in an 
oven, or of ashes well dried and sifted. Upon this 
place a layer of bunches of grapes well cleaned, 
and gathered in the afternoon of a dry day, before 
they are perfectly ripe. Proceed tlius, with alter- 
nate layers of bran and grapes, till tlie barrel is 
full, taking care that the grapes do not touch each 
other, and to let the last layer be of bran; then 
close the barrel, so that the air may not be able to 
penetrate, which is an essential point. Grapes 
thus packed will keep 9 or even 12 months. To 
restore them to their freshness, cut the end of the 
stalk of each bunch of grapes, and put that of 
white grapes into white wine, and that of black 
grapes into red wine, as flowers are put into wa- 
ter to revive or to keep them fresh. 

To pack young trees for exportation. 
The long white moss of the marshes, sphagnum 
palustre, maybe applied for this purpose. Squeeze 
out part of the moisture from the moss, and lay 
courses of it about 3 inches thick, interposed M'iili 
other courses of the trees, shortened in their 
branches and roots, stratum above stratum, till the 
box is filled; then let the whole be trodden down, 
and the lid properly secured. The trees will 
want no care, even during a voyage of 10 or 12 
months, llie moss been retentive of moisture, and 
appearing to possess an antiseptic property, wliitli 
prevents fermentation or putrefaction. Vegetation 
will proceed during the time the trees remain in- 
closed, shoots arising both from the branches and 
roots, which, however, are blanched and tender, 
for want of light and air, to whicli the trees require 
to be gradually inured. This moss is very common 
in most parts of Europe and America. 

Practical directions to gardeners. 

1. Perform every opei'ation in the proper season 

2. Perform every operatior fn the best (P ini>'"r. 



HORTICULTURE. 



311 



This IS to De acquired in pan by practice, and 
partly also by reflection. For example, in digging; 
over a piece of ground, it is a common practice 
with slovens to throw the weeds and stones on the 
dug ground, or on the adjoining alley or walk, with 
the intention of gathering them off afterwards. A 
better way is to have a wheel-barrow, or a large 
basket, in" which to put the weeds and extraneous 
matters, as they are picked out of the ground. 
Some persons, in planting or weeding, whether in 
the open air, or in hot houses, throw down all 
seeds, stones, and extraneous matters on the paths 
or alleys, with a view to pick them up, or sweep 
or rake them together afterwards: it is better to 
carry a basket or other utensil, either common or 
subdivided, in which to hold in one part the plants 
to be planted, in another the extraneous matters, &c. 

3. Complete every part of an operation as you 
proceed. 

4. Finish one joh before beginning another. 

5. In leaving off working at any job, leave the 
work and tools in an orderly manner. 

6. In leaving off work for the day, make a tem- 
porary finish, and carry the tools to the tool-house. 

7. In passing to and from the work, or on any 
occasion, through any part of what is considered 
under the charge of the gardener, keep a vigilant 
look out for weeds, decayed leaves, or any other 
deformity, and remove them. 

8. In gathering a crop, reroave at the same time 



the roots, leaves, stems, or whatever else is of no 
farther use, or may appear slovenly, decaying, or 
offensive. 

9. Let no crop of fruit, or herbaceous vegctaMes, 
go to waste on the spot. 

10. Cut down the flour stalks of all plants. 

11. Keep every part of what is under your care 
perfect in its kind. 

Attend in spring and autumn to walls and build- 
ings, and get them repaired, jointed, glazed, and 
painted where wanted. Attend at all times to 
machines, implements, and tools, keeping them 
clean, sharp, and in perfect repair. See particu- 
larly that they are placed in their proper situations 
in the tool-house. House every implement, uten- 
sil, or machine not in use, both iu winter and sum- 
mer. Allow no blanks in edgings, rows, single 
specimens, drills, beds, and even where practica- 
ble, in broad-cast sown pieces. Keep edgings and 
edges cut to the utmost nicety. Keep the shapes 
of the wall trees filled witli wood according to 
their kind, and let their training be in the first 
style of perfection. Keep all walks in perfect 
form, whether raised or flat, free from weeds, dry, 
and well rolled. Keep all the lawns, by every 
means in your power, of a close texture, and dark 
green velvet appearance. Keep water clear and 
free from weeds, and let not ponds, lakes, or arti 
ficial rivers, rise to the brim in winter, nor sink 
very far under it in summer. 



HUSBAHTDRIT. 



Component parts of soil. 

In general the component parts of the soil, what- 
ever may be the colour, are argil, sand, water, and 
air; for into these original principles may all earths 
be reduced, however blended with apparently fo- 
reign substances. Argil is the soft and unctuous 
part of clay. The primitive eartlis, argil and 
sand, contain each, perhaps in nearly equal degrees, 
the food of plants; but in their union the purposes 
of vegetation are most completely answered. The 
precise quantities of each necessary to make this 
union perfect, and whether they ought to be equal, 
it is neither very easy nor very material to ascer- 
tain, since that point is best determined in practice, 
when the soil proves to be neither too stifiF or ad- 
hesive, from the superabundance of clay, nor of 
too loose and weak a texture, from an over quan- 
tity of sand in its composition. The medium is 
undoubtedly best; but an excess towards adhesion 
is obviously most safe. A stiff or strong soil holds 
the water which falls upon it for a long time, and, 
being capable of much ploughing, is naturally well 
qualified for carrying the most valuable arable 
crops. A light sod, or one of a texture feeble and 
easily broken, is, on the contrary, soon exhausted 
by aration, and requires renovation by grass; or 
otherwise it cannot be cultivated to advantage. 
To distinguish clayey soils. 

A clayey soil, though distinguished by the colour 
which it bears, namely black, white, yellow, and 
red, differs from all other soils, being to<igh, wet, 
and cold, and consequently requiring a good deal 
of labour from the husbandman before it can be 
sufilcientiy pulverized, or placed in a state for bear- 



ing artificial crops of corn or grass. Clay land is 
known by the following qualities, or properties: 

It holds water like a cup, and once wetted does 
not soon dry. In like manner, when thoroughly 
dry, it is not soon wetted; if we except the varie- 
eties which have a thin surface, and are the worst 
of all to manage. In a dry summer, clay cracks, 
and shows a surface full of small chinks, or open- 
ings. If ploughed in a wet state, it sticks to the 
plough like mortar, and in a dry summer, the 
plough turns it up in great clods, scarcely to be 
broken or separated by the heaviest roller. 
To manage sandy soils. 

Soils of this description are managed with infi- 
nitely less trouble, and at an expense greatly infe- 
rior to what clays require; but at the same time, 
the crops produced from them are generally of 
smaller value. There are many varieties of sjnd, 
however, as well as of clay; and in some parts of 
the country, the surface is little better than a bare 
ban'en sand, wherein artificial plants will not take 
root unless a dose of clay or good earth is previ- 
ously administered. This is not the soil meant 
by the farmer when he speaks of sands. To speak 
practically, the soil meant is one where sand is 
predominant, although there be several other 
earths in the mixture. From containing a great 
quantity of sand, these soils are all loose and 
crumbling, and never get into a clod, even in the 
driest weather. This is the great article of distinc- 
tion betwixt sands and sandy loams. A sandy loam, 
owing to the clay that is in it, does not crumble 
down, or become loose like a real sand, but retains a 
degree of adhesion after wetnessordroaght,notwith- 



312 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK 



standing the quantity of sand that is mixed with 
it. Perhaps a true sandy loam, incumbent upon 
a sound subsoil, is the most valuable of all soils. 
Upon such, every kind of grain may be raised with 
advantage, and no soil is better calculated for tur- 
nips and grass. 

The real sands are not favourable to the growth 
of wheat, unless when preceded by clover, which 
binds the surface, and confers a temporary strength 
for sustaining that grain. Much of the county of 
Norfolk, is of this description; and it is well 
known that few districts of the kingdom yield a 
greater quantity of produce. Till Norfolk, how- 
ever, was invigorated by clay and marl, nearly one 
half of it was little better than waste; but by tiie 
success which accompanied the use of these aux- 
iliaries, a new soil was in a manner ci-eated; which, 
by a continuation of judicious management, has 
given a degree of fame to the husbandry of that 
countiy, far surpassing that of other districts natu- 
rally more fertile. . 

Gravelly soils. 

The open porous nature of these soils disposes 
tltem to imbibe moisture, and to part with it with 
great facility: from the latter of which circumstan- 
ces they are subject to burn, as it is termed, in dry sea- 
sons. The main difference between gravel and sand 
is, that the former is chiefly composed of small soft 
stones; though m some instances the stones are of a 
silicious or flinty natui-e, and, in others, of the calca- 
reous or chalky. From these constitutional circum- 
itances arise the propriety of deepening gravelly soils 
by coats of marl or earth, and of keeping them fresh 
by frequent I'eturns of grass, and repeated appli- 
cations of manure. Gravelly soils, from the light- 
Ttess of their texture, are not expensive or difficult 
in the means of cultivation. All the necessary 
business required for gravels may be carried for- 
ward with ease and expedition; and such soils are, 
iu general, soon brought into a proper state for 
the reception of crops. 

The constitutional qualities of gravels point out 
ihe propriety of ploughing them deep, so that the 
surface soil may be augmented, and greater room 
given to the growth of the plants cultivated on 
them. A shallow-ploughed gravel can stand no 
excess of weather, however enriched by manure. 
It is burnt up by a day or two of draught, and it is 
almost equally injured by an excessive fall of rain, 
unless the pan or firm bottom, which such soils 
easily gain, be frequently broken through by deep 
ploughing. 

Uses of different soils. 

Clayey soils, wlien sufficiently enriched with 
manures, are naturally well qualified for carrying 
crops of wheat, oats, beans, and clover; but are 
not fitted for barley, turnips, potatoes, he. or oven 
for being kept under for grass longer than one 
year. Such soils ought to be regularly summer- 
fallowed once in six, or at least once iu eight years, 
even when they are comparatively in a clean state, 
as they contract a sourness and adhesion from wet 
ploughing, only to be removed by exposure to the 
sun and wind during the dry months of summer. 
Soils of this kind receive little benefit from winter 
ploughing, unless so far as their surface is thereby 
presented to the frost, which mellows and reduces 
them in a manner infinitely superior to what could 
he accomplished by all the operations of man. 
Still they are not cleaned or made free of weeds by 
winter ploughing; and therefore this operation can 
only be considered as a good means for procuring 
a seed-bed, in which the seeds of the future crop 
may be safely deposited. Hence the necessity of 
cleaning clay soils during the summer months, and 
of having always a large part of every clay farm 
under summer fallow. AH clayey soils require 



great industry and care, as well as a considcrablg 
portion of knowledge in dressing or management, 
to keep them in good condition; yet when their 
natural toughness is got the belter of, they always 
yield the heaviest and most abundant crops. One 
thing requisite for a clayey soil, is to keep it rich 
and full of manure; a poor clay being the most un- 
grateful of all soils, and hardly capable of repay- 
ing the expense of labour, after being worn out 
and exhausted. A clayey soil also receives, com- 
paratively, small benefit from grass; and when once 
allowed to get into a sterile condition, the most 
active endeavours will with difficulty restore ferti- 
lit}' to it after the lapse of many years. 

Upon light soils, the case is very different. 
These flourish under the grass husbandly; and 
bare summer fallow is rai-ely required, be- 
cause they may be cleaned and cropped in the 
same year, with that valuable esculent, turnip. 
Upon light soils, however, wheat can seldom be 
extensively cultivated; nor can a crop be obtained 
of equal value, either in respect to quantity or 
quality, as on clay sand loams. The best method 
of procuring wheats on light lands, is to sow upon 
a clover stubble, when the soil has got an artificial 
solidity of body and is thereby rendered capable 
of sustaining this grain till it arrives at maturity. 
The same observation applies to soils of a gravel- 
ly nature; and upon both, barley is generally 
found of as great benefit as wheat. 

Thin clays, and peat earths, are more friendly 
to the growth of oats than of other grains, though 
in favourable seasons a heavy crop of wheat may 
be obtained from a thin clayey soil, when it has 
been completely summer-fallowed, and enriched 
with dung. A first application of calcareous ma- 
nure is generally accompanied with great advan- 
tage upon these soils; but when once the eftect 
of this application is over, it can hardly be repeat- 
ed a second time, unless the land has been very 
cautiously managed after the first dressing. Nei- 
ther of tliese soils is friendly to grass, yet there is 
a necessity of exercising fhis husbandry with them, 
because they are incapable of standing the plough 
more than a year or two in the course of a rotation. 

Wheat ought to be the predominant crop 
upon all the rich clays and strong loams, and that 
light soils of every kind are well qualified for tur- 
nips, barley, &c. Upon the thin and moorish soils, 
oats must necessarily preserve a prominent rank; 
and grass seeds may be cultivated upon eveiy one 
of them, though with ditt'erent degrees of advan- 
tage, according to the natural and artificial rich- 
ness of each soil, or to the qualities which it pos- 
sesses for encouraging the growth of clover, in the 
first instance, and preserving the roots of the plant 
afcerwards. 

Ofjeration of tillage. 

Tillage is an operation whereby the soil is either 
cleared from noxious weeds, or prepared for re- 
ceiving the seeds of plants cultivated by the hus- 
bandman. When this operation is neglected, or 
even partially executed, the soil becomes foul, 
barren, and unproductive; hence, upon arable 
farms, tillage forms the prominent branch of work; 
and, according to the perfection, or imperfection, 
with which it is executed, the crops of the hus- 
bandman, whether of corn or grass, are in a great 
measure regulated. 

I'jUage, in the early ages, was performed by 
hand labour; but, in modern times, the plough has 
been the universal instrument used for executing 
this necessary and important branch of rural work. 
In no other way can large fields be turned over, 
because the expense of digging with the spade, the 
only other method of turning over the ground, 
would much exceed any profit that can be reaped. 



HUSBANDRY. 



S13 



Stones lying above or below the surface are the 
most formidable obstruction to perfect tillage. 
On stony ground, the work is not only imperfectly 
executed, ""but in many cases the implement is bro- 
ken to pieces, and a considerable portion of time 
lost before it is repaired, and put in order. The 
removal of stones, therefore, especially of such as 
are brfow the surface, ought to be a primary ob- 
iect with every agriculturist; because a neglect 
of this kind may afterwards occasion him conside- 
rable loss and inconvenience. 

To drain the ground, in other words, to lay it 
dry, also facilitates tillage exceedingly; for plough- 
ing cannot be performed with advantage where 
either the surface or subsoil is wet. 
£est mode of tillage. 

The only sure and certain way by which the soil 
is cleaned or rendered free of weeds, is by plough- 
ing in the summer months, when the ground is 
drv, and when, by the influence of the sun and atr, 
the weeds may be destroyed with facility. Sel- 
dom at any other period is the soil much benefited 
by ploughing^ unless so far as a seed-bed is thus 
procured for the succeeding crop; and though the 
situation or state of the ground, when these inter- 
mediate ploughings are bestowed, is of importance 
in judging of their utility, yet the radical process 
of summer fallow cannot, by any means, be alto- 
gether dispensed with. Though, if the winter and 
spring ploughings are executed under favourable 
<arcumstances, and plenty of manure is at hand, it 
may be delayed for a greater number of years than 
is otherwise practicable, if good husbandry is to 
be maintained. 

Without summer fallow, or, which is the same 
thing, without working the ground in the summer 
months, perfect husbandry is unattainable on all 
heavy or cold soils, and upon every variety incum- 
bent on a close or retentive bottom. 

To keep his land clean will always be a princi- 
pal object with every good farmer; for if this is 
neglected, in place of carrying rich crops of corn 
or grass, the ground will be exhausted by crops 
of weeds. "Where land is foul, everv operation 
of husbandry must be proportionably non-effec- 
tive; and even the manures applied will, in a great 
measure, be lost. 

Tne necessity of summer fallow depends great-? 
ly upon tlie nature and qwality of the soil; as, upon 
some soils, a repetition of this practice is less fre- 
quently required than upon others. Wherever 
the soil is incumbent upon clay or till, it is more 
disposed to get foul, than when incumbent upon a 
dry gravelly bottom; besides, wet soils, from be- 
ing ploughed in winter, contract a stiffness which 
lessens the pasture of artificial plants, and prevents 
them from receiving sufficient nourishment. When 
land of a dry gravelly bottom gets foul, it may ea- 
sily be cleaned without a plain summer fallow; 
since crops, such as turnips, &c. ir.ay be substitu- 
ted in its place, which, when drilled at proper in- 
tervals, admit of being ploughed as often us neces- 
saiy; whereas wet soils, which are naturally unfit 
for carrying such crops, must be cleaned and 
brought into good order, by frequent ploughings 
and liarrowings during the summer months. 
To conduct a fallow. 

Upon all clayey soils (and upon such only is 
a complete summer fallow necessary), the first 
ploughing ought to be given during the winter 
months, or as early in the spring as possible; which 
greatly promotes the rotting of the sward and stub- 
ble. This should be done by gathering up the 
ridge, which both lays the ground dry, and rips 
up the furrows. As soon as seed-time is over, the 
ridge should be cloven down, preparatory to cross 
ploughing; and after lying a proper time, should 



be harrowed and rolled repeatedly, and every par- 
ticle of quickens that the harrows have brought 
above, should be carefully picked off with the hand. 
It is then proper to ridge or gather it up immedi- 
ately, which both lays the land in propei condi- 
dition for meeting bad weather, and opens up 
any fast land that may have been missed in the 
fun-ows when the cross ploughing was given. After 
this, harrow, roll and gather the root weeds again; 
and continue so doing till the field is perfectly clean. 
7'o prepare the ground. 

The above object is most completely accom- 
plished, when the ground is ploughed deep and 
equal, while the bottom of the furrow immediatelv 
above the subsoil is perfectly loosened, and turned 
equally over with the part which constitutes the 
surface. In many places, these properties are alto- 
gether neglected, the ground being; ploughed in a 
shallow way, while the bottom of the ploughed 
land remains something like the teeth of a saw, 
having the under part of the furrow untouched, 
and consequently not removed by the action of the 
plough. While these things are suffered, the ob- 
ject of tillage is only partially gained. The food of 
plants can only be imperfectly procured; and the 
ground is drenched and injured by wetness; these 
ridges, or pieces ot land, which are not cut, pre- 
venting a descent of the moisture from above to 
the open furrows left for carrying it off. Where 
the seed-bed is prepared by one ploughing, the 
greatest care ought to be used in having it closely 
and equally performed. When two are given, they 
should be in opposite directions, so that any firm 
land left in the first may be cut up in the second 
ploughing. It is not profitable to plough twice one 
way, if it can be safely avoided. 

Another important point towards procuring 
good tillage, is never to plough the Jand when in a 
wet state; because encouragement is thus given to 
the growth of weeds, while a sourness and adhesion 
is communicated to the ground, -which is rarely 
got the better of till the operations of a summer fal- 
low are again repeated. 

All soils ought not to be wrought, or ploughed, 
in one manner, liach kind has its particular and 
appropriate qualities; and, theiefore,each requires 
a particular and appropriate mode of tillage. Plough- 
ing, which is the capital operation of husbandry, 
ought, on these accounts, to be administered accord- 
ing to the nature of the soil which is to be operated 
upon, and not executed agreeably to one fixed and 
determined principle. On strong clays and loams, 
and on rich gravels and deep sands, the plough ought 
to go as deep as the cattle are able to woi k it; where- 
as, on thin clays and barren sands the benefit of deep 
ploughing is very questionable; especially wlien 
such are incumbent on a till bottom, or wliere the 
subsoil is of a yellow-ochre nature; such, when 
turned up, being little better than poison to the 
surface, unless highly impregnated with alluvial 
compost, the effect of which expels the poisonous 
substance contained in this kind of subsoil, and 
gives a fertility to the whole mass, more decisively 
permanent, than would follow a heavy application 
of the best rolten dung. 
Tivo sets of ploughs required for perfect tillage. 

On clayey soils, where the ridges must be consi- 
dered acclivated, so that the ground may be pre- 
served in something like a dry condition, the 
plough, used for tillage; ought to have a mould- 
board consideraby wider set than is required for 
light soils, in order that the furrow may be close 
cut below, and duly turned over. This method of 
constructing the plough necessarily makes a iiea- 
vier draugiit than would be the case v/ere the 
mould-board placed differently; though if good and 
sufficient Avork be wanted, the necessity of con- 

2 B 



314 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



Btructing the implement in the way mentioned, is 
absolute and indispensable. The plough to be used 
on light soils, or on all soils that admit of what is 
technically called crown and furrow ploughing, may 
be maJe much straighter below, and yet be capa- 
ble of executing the work in a perfect manner. On 
every farm, consisting of mixed soils, two sets of 
ploughs ought to be kept, otherwise proper work 
cannot be performed. All land ought to be plough- 
ed with a shoulder, and the advantages of plough- 
ing in this way are, that, if ploughed before winter, 
the surface is enabled to resist the winter rains, 
and aflerw.^rds present a face, on which the har- j 
rows can make a proper impression, when the | 
seed process is to be executed. This deserves j 
]iarticular attention when old grass fields are 
broken up; as, by neglecting it, the harrows often | 
are unable to cover the seed. It is perfectly prac- | 
lieable to plough land with a tolerably broad fur- 
row, say 10, 11, or 12 inches, and yet to plough it | 
clean, provided the implement used is properly j 
constructed; but, then, care must be taken Cliat the ; 
furrow be of proportionate deepness, otherwise it 
will be laid on its back, instead of being deposited 
at an angle proper for undergoing the harrowing 
process. 

Implements of hu<,bandry . 

No country in the world is better provided with 
implements for executing rural labour than Great 
Britain; and to this superiority may, in some mea- 
sure, be attributed the increased and increasing 
perfection of agriculture over the whole island. 
We have ploughs of all the different kinds that ever 
were constructed: as for wheel carriages, the va- 
riety is immense; whilst harrows, and other com- 
mon implements, of various constructions and 
dimensions, are equally numerous. But it is in 
the articles more properly allied to machinery, 
that the superiority of British rural implements is 
most conspicuous. Drills for sowing grain and 
small seeds with regularity, have been constructed 
upon scientific principles; and machines for sepa- 
rating grain from straw, have been invented, and 
brought to a degree of perfection which few people 
expected, when these machines were first intro- 
(luced. 

Mv Small's improved Rotherham plough. 

The sock, or share, is made with a fin, or fea- 
ther, whereby the firm earth at the bottom of the 
furrow is cut more completely than was practica- 
ble by the sock of the old ploughs, which acted 
more in the way of mining and forcing than cut- 
ting and removing the earth witli facility or ease; 
and the mo.^ld-board being of cast metal, may be 
set wider or closei" according to the nature of the 
soil on which the plough is to be used, or the 
height of the ridges that are to be ploughed. This 
implement is, therefore, the best constructed swing 
plough in the island; and by means of it a man and 
two iiorses will, with all ease, plough an English 
acre per day, except in particular seasons, when 
the soil, from drought, has become hard and obsti- 
nate. 

No kind of plough will cut the furrow so clean, 
or turn it so nicely over for receiving benefit from 
the atmosphere, and effect from the harrowing 
process; and, what is of greater importance, none 
are more easily dravi'n, taking into account the 
quality of work that is performed, than the one of 
which we are now speaking. A great deal of its 
utiiiiy is determined by the strength of the animals 
employed in the draught; by the dexterity of the 
man to whom the management is committed; and 
bv the order and condition in which the coulter and 
share are preserved; for the best constructed im- 
plement will make had work, when strength 
ur.J dexterity a;'c wanting in the operator. But, 



under a parity of circumstances, it may be affinn- 
ed, that the swing plough, brought into practice, 
and afterwards improved by Mr Small, is fitted 
for executing work to a better purpose, than any 
other of the'numerous varieties of that implement 
employed in the several districts of Great Britain. 

The mould-board, as the sheath or head, is now 
generally made of cast iron. 

It is now universal over Scotland, and perhaps, 
were it better known in England, it might come to 
displace the complicated ploughs, with wheels and 
other trumpery, with which agriculture there is at 
present incumbered; as it is not apt to be put out 
of order, but, simple in the construction, and ef- 
fective in operation, it is adapted to almost every 
situation. The chain, connected with the muzzle, 
by which it is drawn, fixed as far back as the coul- 
ter, is not essential to its formation, serving merely 
to strengthen the beam, which may be made 
stronger of itself at less expense, while the tillage 
is as accurately performed with ploughs that have 
none. The price is from 50s. to 60s. 
VeitcWs improved ploughs. 

Mr James Veitch. of Inchbonny near Jedbin-gh, 
an ingenious artizan, has made very considerable 
improvements on the plough, of which he gives the 
following account: — " It is well known to every 
praclicalfarraer,thatland, when properly ploughed, 
must be removed from a horizontal position, and 
twisted over to a certain angle, so that it may be 
left in that inclining state,one furrow leatiing upon 
another, till the whole field be completely plough- 
ed. The depth and width of the furrow which is 
most approved of by farmers,. and commonly to be 
met with in the best ploughed fields, are in the pro- 
portion of two to three; or if the furroM' be two 
feet deep, it must be three wide, and left in an 
inclining position from 45 deg. to 46 deg. 

" Mr Small's plough is by f,ir the best known 
in this country; but the perpendicular position of 
the sheath, and the too sudden twist of the sock 
and mould-board, together with the mould-board 
not being a proper curve with respect to the different 
resistance that the sock and mould-board will meet 
with in ploughing stift'land, render it, in many re- 
spects, not so perfect an instrument as could be 
wished for. As the sock and fore part of the mould- 
board, entering first into the stiff land, meet with 
the greatest resistance, and consequently must wear 
soonest, to remedy this, I begin at the point of the 
sock, and bring it a great way farther forward than 
that of Small's, and by this means give it a more 
oblique position; which diminishes the angle of the 
furrow's ascension from the horizontal to the ver- 
tical position. The more this angle is diminished, 
where it meets with the greatest resistance, the 
less apt will the plough be to tilt out of the land; 
and the nearer to the perpendicular the sheath and 
sock are with respect to the sole of the plough, 
the less hold v-iU it take of the land; and it will be' 
more apt to start out. If the point of the stock be 
not ma-ie to project a great way below the plane 
of the sole, or point downwards toward the bottom 
of the furrow, the ploughs that are made in this 
fashion grind away the point of the sock below; 
and, as this point is so much inclined, and removed 
from a parallel position with respect to the sole of 
the plough, it increases the friction to that part, 
and makes the plough a great deal more difficult to 
draw. This parallel position I have preserved in 
my plough, as far as the strength ot cast-iron will 
admit; and, as the furrows are laid parallel on one 
another. I have formed the sock, and that part of 
the mould-board (where the furrow, by twistmg 
over, is brought to the perpendicular), by cutting 
away the mould-board pattern, in parallel lines, 
from the sole of the plough to the top ot the 



HUSBANDRY. 



315 



mould-board; and, by these means, I both prociire 
a steadier motion for the plough, and also diminish 
the trietion, by diminishing tlie angle, and conse- 
quently render it easier drawn, and less apt to 
break the furrow. 

" In the framing of this plough, 1 have propor- 
tioned one part to another, so that all parts of it 
may wear alike; the iron work is fixed on the 
plough simply, and at the same time perfectly se- 
cure. I have likewise made a spring steel yard, 
to determine the difference of draught between 
Small's plough and the one which I have con- 
structed. " 

Plough for cleaning beans and turnips. 

Besides the improved Rolherham plough, now in 
general use, and worked by two horses, another 
implement, constructed upon the same principles, 
but of smaller dimensions, and considerably light- 
er, is used for cleaning beans, potatoes, and tur- 
nips. This plough, wrought by one horse, does 
the business completely. It is of advantage to put 
a piece of plate iron betwixt the coulter and sheath 
or head, that the loose earth may not fall through 
upon the young plants. A horse shoe, called a 
scraper, is also used to clean drilled crops on light ■ 
soils, and is very efficacious when annual weeds 
are to be destroyed; but when quicken or otiier 
root weeds are in the ground, a deeper furrow is 
required, and in that case the light Rotherham fur- 
row becomes necessary. 

The universal sowing machine. 

This machine, whether made to be worked by 
hand, drawn by a horse, or fixed to a plough, ami 
used with it, is extremely simple in its construc- 
tion, and not liable to be put out of order; as there 
is but one movement to direct the whole. It will 
sow wheat, barley, oats, rye, clover, coleseed, 
hemp, flax, canary, rape, turnip; besides a great 
variety of other kinds of grain and seeds, broad- i 
cast, with an accuracy hitherto unknown. It is ' 
equally useful when fixed to a plough; it will then ' 
drill a more extensive variety of grain, pulse, and 
seed, (tlirough every gradation, with regard to 
quality,) and deliver each kind with greater regu- 
larity, than any drill plough whatever. 

Among many other valuable and peculiar pro- 
perties, it will not only sow in the broad-cast way, 
with a most singular exactness, but save the ex- 
pense of a seeds-man; the seed being sown (either 
over or under furrow at pleasure,) and the land 
ploughefl at the same operation. 

Another advantage attending the use of this ma- 
chine is, that the wind can have no effect on the 
falling of the seed. 

The machine, when made to be used without a 
plough, and to be drawn by a horse, may be of 
different lengths. The upper part contains the 
hoppers, from which the grain or seed descends 
into the spouts. The several spouts all rest upon 
a bar, whiiih hangs and plays freely by two diagonal 
supporters; a trigger, fixed to this bar, bears a 
catch wheel: this being fixed on the a.xle, occasions 
a regular and continued motion, or jogging of the 
spouts, quicker or slower in proportion to the space 
the person sowing with it drives. At the bottom 
of the machine is placed an apron or shelf, in a 
sloping position, and the corn or seed, by falling 
thereon from the spouts above, is scattered about 
in every direction. 

To sow the corn or seed in drills, there are 
moveable spouts, which are fixed on, or taken off 
at pleasure, to direct the seed from the upper spout 
to the bottom of the furrow. 
Barro-uis. 

These beneficial implements are of various sizes 
end dimensions; but the harrow most commonly 
used consists of four bulls, with cross-mortised 



sheaths, each bull containing five teeth, of from 
five to seven inches in length below the bulls, the 
longest being placed forwards. Harrows of this 
kind, drawn by one horse, are generally used on 
most farms for all purposes, though on others large 
brake-harrows, consisting of five bulls, each con- 
taining six teeth, and worked by two horses, are 
employed during the faUow process, and for reduc- 
ing rough land. Some of these brake-harrows are 
constructed with joints, so as to bend and accom- 
modate their shape to the curvature of ridges. A 
small harrow, with short teeth, is also used for 
covering grass seeds, though we have rarely seen 
any detriment from putting grass seeds as deep into 
the ground as the teeth of ordinary sized harrows 
are capable of going. 

The best methods of harro-wing. 

When employed to reduce a strong obdurate 
soil, not more than two harrows should be yoked 
together, because they are apt to ride and tumble 
upon each other, and thus impede the work, and 
execute it imperfectly. On rough soils, harrows 
ought to be driven as fast as the horses can walk; 
becaiise their effect is in direct proportion to the 
degree of velocity with which they are driven. In 
ordinary cases, and in every case where harrowing 
is meant for covering the seed, three harrows are 
the best yoke, because they fill up the ground more 
effectually, and leave fewer vacancies, than when 
a smaller number is emoloyed. The harrow- 
man's attention, at the &eed process, should be 
constantly directed to prevent these implements 
from riding upon each ether, and to keep them 
clear of every impedimert from stones, lumps of 
earth, or clods, and quickens or grass roots; for 
any of these prevents the implement from work- 
ing with perfection, and sauses a mark or trail 
upon the surface, always unpleasing to the eye, and 
generally detrimental to the braird or vegetation 
of the seed. Harrowing is usually given in dif- 
ferent directions, first in length, then across, and 
finally in length as at first. Careful husbandmen 
study, in the finishing part of the process, to have 
the harrows drawn in a straight line, without suf- 
fering the horses to go in a zig zag manner, and 
are also attentive that the horses enter fairly upon 
the ridge, without making a curve at the outset. 
In some instances, an excess of harrowing has 
been found very prejudicial to the succeeding crop; 
but it is always necessary to give so much as to 
break the furrow, and level the surface, otherwise 
the operation is imperfectly performed. 
Rollers. 

The roller is an implement frequently used for 
smoothing the surface of land when in tillage, es- 
pecially when the processes of summer fallow are 
going forward. Several kinds of rollers are used 
in Britain. Some are made of stone, others of 
wood, according to the nature of the operation in- 
tended to be performed. The only material dif- 
ference in rollers is their weight; but it should be 
attended to, when a roller is made of large diame- 
ter, that its weight ought to be the greater; for in 
proportion to the largeness of its diameter, will be 
the extent of surface upon which the roller rests. 
The weight of a roller ought therefore to be in 
proportion to its diameter, otherwise its effect will 
be proportionably diminished. 

Rolling, however, is a modern improvement, 
and used for different purposes. In the first place, 
it is of great advantage to roll young grasses after 
the ground is stoned, because the scythe can then be 
placed nearer the surface, and the crop cut more 
equally than when the operation is neglected. 
2dly, Land on which turnips are to be cultivated 
can rarely be made fine enough, without the re- 
peated use of this implement. And 3dly, The 



316 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



process of summer fallow, upon strong soils, is 
much advanced by rolling, because, without its aid, 
the large and obdurate clods cannot be reduced, or 
couch-grass eradicated. From these circumstances 
it will readily appeal', thai rollers of various sizes 
and dimensions nre required on every farm, for 
accomplishing ditt'erent purposes. Wooden rollers, 
drawn by one horse, answer veiy well for grass and 
turnip land; but massy stone rollers, drawn either 
by two or three horses, are absolutely necessary 
on clay soils. 

It is obvious, that when a large field is to be 
rolled, a number of rollers ought at once to be set 
at work, otherwise an opportunity may be lost, 
never to be regained. The deficiency is most con- 
spicuous, when barley is taken after turnips in a 
dry season. From poachingthe ground with carts, 
in order to carry off" the crop, and even by the 
treading of sheep, a degree of stiffness is contract- 
ed, which requires the use of the roller before grass 
seeds can be sown. 

On all occasions it is most beneficial to roll 
across, because, when going in length, the imple- 
ment is of small benefit to the furrows, the slight- 
est acclivation of the ridges preventing the work 
from being equally performed. The expedition 
which takes place when rollers are used, compared 
with the tedious and expensive process of break- 
ing clods witli malls, formerly the general custom, 
sufficiently proves the importance of these imple- 
ments, tliougli it deserves to be remarked, that, 
when rolling is bestowed upon a spring-sown field, 
harrowing it afterwards is of great advantage. By 
harrowing when the clods are reduced, the earth 
stands the effects of rain better afterwards, and 
does not consolidate so firmly as when that process 
is neglected. 

The thrashing machine. 
The thrashing machine is the most valuable im- 
plement in the farmer's possession, and one which 
adds more to tlie general produce of the country, 
than any invention hitherto devised. The saving 
cf manual labour, thereby obtaineG, is almost in- 
calculable; while the work is performed in a much 
more perfect manner than was formerly practica- 
ble, even when the utmost care and exertion were 
bestowed. In fact, had net the thrashing machine 
been invented, it is hardly possible to conceive 
what would have been the rate of expense of 
thrashing, cr even whether a sufficient number of 
hands could, at any rate of expense, have been ob- 
tained for thrashing the grain of the country. 

Since the erection of this machine, Mr Meikle 
has progressively introduced a variety of improve- 
ments, all tending to simplify the labour, and to 
augment the quantity of the work performed. 
When first erected, though the corn was equally 
well separated from the straw, yet as the whole of 
"the straw, chaff, and corn, were indiscriminately 
thrown into a confused heap, the work could only, 
with propriety, be considered as half executed. 
By the addition of rakes, or shakers, and two pair 
of fanners, all driven by the same machinery, the 
difterent processes of thrashing, shaking, and win- 
nowing, are now all at once performed, and the 
corn immediately prepared for the public market. 
When it is added, that the quantity of corn gained 
from the superior powers of the machine is fully 
e(iual to a twentieth part of the crop, and that, in 
some cases, the expense of thrashing and cleaning 
the corn is considerably less than what was for- 
merly paid for cleaning it alone, the immense sav- 
ings arising from tlie invention will at once be 
seen. 

The expense of horse labour, from the increased 
value of the animal, and tlie charare of his keenina:, 
being an onject ot great importance, it is recom- II 



mended that, upon all sizeable farms, that is v 
say, where two hundred acres, or upwards, of corn 
are sown, the machine should be wrought by wind 
unless where local circumstances afford the con* 
veniency of water. 

■ Where coals are plenty and cheap, steam may 
be advantageously used for working the machine. 
A respectable farmer, in the county of East Lo- 
thian, works his machine in this way; and, being 
situated in the neighbourhood of a colliery, he is 
enabled to thrash iiis grain at a trifling expense. 
Method of treading corn in Virginia. 
In Virginia and other countries wheat is trodden 
out by horses, nearly in the same way as it was 
formerly done in Palestine by oxen. 

The treading floors are generally from 60 to 100 
feet diameter; but the larger their diameter is, so 
much easier is the work to the horses. The track, 
or path, on which the sheaves are laid, and on 
which the horses walk, is from 12 to 24 feet wide, 
or more. The floors are commonly enclosed by 
fences; and the horses are generally driven between 
them promiscuously and loose, each pressing to be 
foremost, so that fresh air may be obtained, — 
biting, jostling, and kicking each other with Jie 
greatest fury. The labour in tiiis way is extremely 
severe. Upon some small floors a centre-stick is 
placed, to which hangs a rope, or a pole and swivel, 
and four or five horses being fastened together, 
travel round upon the sheaves with the utmost re- 
gularity. Previously to laying down the wheat 
sheaves, the state of the air, and the probability 
of its continuing dry through the day, is fully con- 
sidered. If they resolve to tread, the morning is 
suffered to pass away till the dew is removed. A 
row of sheaves is first laid upon the floors with (he 
heads and butts in a line across the tract of it, as 
a bolster for receiving other sheaves; and these 
sheaves range with the path, or circle, the butts 
resting on the floor. Other sheaves are ranged in 
like manner, with the heads raised on the former, 
till the whole floor is filled, when it appears to be 
filled with nothing but ears of wheat, sloping a 
little upwards. Upon laying down each sheaf, the 
band thereof is cut with a knife. A west wind is 
always desirable while treading is going on, as 
when wind is from the eastward, dampness gene- 
rally prevails. 

In some instances, twenty-four horses are form- 
ed at some distance from the floor into four ranksj 
and when the floor is ready laid, the word is given 
to advance. For the sake of order and regular 
work, a boy mounted on one of the foremost horses 
advances in a walk with the whole rank haltered 
or tied together, and enters upon the bed of wheat, 
walking the horses slowly over it; another rank is 
ordered to follow as sooii as the first is supposed 
to have obtained a distance equal to a fourth part 
of the circumference of the bed, and in the same 
manner the other ranks proceed. They are for- 
bidden to go past a walk, till they have proceeded 
5 or 6 rounds, when the word is given to move at 
a sober trot, and to keep their ranks at a full dis- 
tance from eacli other, regularity and deliberate 
movement being necessary for preventing confu- 
sion. The gentle trot is continued till it may be 
supposed the horses have travelled S or 9 miles, 
whicli is the extent of their first journey; they are 
then led oft' to be foddered and watered, when the 
trodden light straw is taken oft' as cJeep as the place 
where the sheaves lie close, and are but partially 
bruised. 

As soon as this first straw is removed, one-third 
of the width of the bed is turned over on the oilier 
two-thirds from the inner side or circle of the bed, 
whicii narrows the neck of the next journey, 'i'he 
horses are again led on, and trot out their second 



HUSBANDRY. 



317 



journey, till the straw be clear of wheat. The 
outer part of the Led is then turned upon the mid- 
dle part, when tlie h"vses take another journey. 
The loose straw being then taken off, tne whole 
remaining bed is turned up from the floor, and 
shaken with forks, and handles of rakes, after 
which the horses giA'e another tread, which finishes 
the work. The grain is then shoved up from the 
floor with the heads of rakes turned downwards, 
and put into heaps of a conical form, in which 
situation it often remains exposed to the weather 
for several days. The correct American agricul- 
turists, however, have houses adjoining to the 
treading floor, where the grain is deposited till it 
is cleared from the chaff and offal; though as most 
of them continue treading, if the weather be fa- 
vourable, till the whole crop is separated from the 
straw, it is pretty obvious ttiat the grain stands a 
considerable chance of being damaged before the 
several processes are concluded. 
Fanners. 

If thrashing machines are of much advantage to 
the public, by separating corn completely from the 
straw, the introduction of fanners, or the machine 
by which corn is cleaned from chaff, and all sorts 
of offal, may, with justice, be considered as pro- 
portionally of equal benefit to the practical agri- 
culturist. 

Since thrashing machines were introduced, fan- 
ners almost in every case are annexed to them, and 
in some instances, where powerful machines are 
used, fitted internally with suitable riddles, it is 
perfectly practicable to measure and market the 
grain immediately as it comes from the machine. 
Manures. 

The term manure is applied indiscriminately to 
all substances, which are known from experience 
either to enrich the different soils, or contribute 
in any other way to render them more favourable 
to vegetation. 

In an agricultural point of view, the subject of 
manures is of the first magnitude. To correct 
what is hurtful to vegetation in the different soils, 
and to restore what is lost by exhausting crops, 
are operations in agriculture which may be com- 
pared to the curing of diseases in the animal body, 
or supplying the waste occasioned by labour. 
To manage dung upon light lands. 

For soils of this description, where turnips are 
taken as a first crop, dung can hardly be too well 
prepared; because the nature of the crop, to v/hich 
it is applied, renders a complete incorporation 
with the ground absolutely necessary; without 
which the young plants might be starved at their 
very entrance into life. In the best farmed En- 
glis'h counties, dung is often kept more than a year, 
in order that it may be perfectly rotted. 

In general there is not much difficulty in prepar- 
ing dung upon turnip farms; because, in the driest 
season, from the nature of the food used, such a 
quantity of liquid passes from the animals, as to 
prevent burning, provincially fire-fanging, the 
greatest obstacle to the rotting of dung that can be 
experienced. If turnip dung is regularly removed, 
if it is properly mixed with the horse litter, and 
other excrementitious matter accumulated upon 
ttie farm, it will be found an easy task to prepare 
all that is made by the middle of April, at which 
time the fold-yard should be cleared. What is 
produced after'that time should be stored up sepa- 
rately, receive waterings if the weather is dry, and 
be reserved for clover-stubbles, or other fields that 
are to be dunged in autumn. 

The middle of April is a good time for clearing 
the fold-yard; but this does not prevent the work 
from going paitially forward through the winter, 
when suiiable opportunities occur. 



When driven out of the fold-yard, the dung 
should be laid up in a regular heap or pile, not 
exceeding six quarters, or four feet and a half in 
height; and care should be taken not to put either 
horse or cart upon it, which is easily avoided by 
backing the cart to the pile, and laying the dunr 
compactly together with a g-ape or fork. It is 
also useful to face up the extremities with earth, 
which keeps in the moisture, and prevents the sun 
and wind from doing injury. Perhaps a small 
quantity of earth strewed upon the top might also 
prove useful. Dung, when managed in this man- 
ner, generally ferments very rapidly; but if it is 
discovered to be in a backward state, a complete 
turn over, about the 1st of May, when the weathef 
becomes warm, will quicken the process; and thv 
better it is shaken asunder, the sooner will tlie ob- 
ject in view be accomplished. 

A secluded spot of ground, not much exposed to 
wind, and perfectly secure from being floated with 
water, ought always to be chosen for the site of 
such piles or heaps. If the field to which it is to 
be applied is at hand, a little after-trouble may be 
saved by depositing it there in the first instance. 
But it is found most convenient to reserve a piece of 
ground adjacent to the homestead for this purpose. 
There it is always under the farmer's eye, and a 
greater quantity can be moved in a shorter time 
than when the situation is more distant. Besides, 
in wet weather (and this is generally the time cho- 
sen for such an operation), the roads are not only 
cut up by driving to a distance, but the field oo 
wnich the heap is made, may be poached and in- 
jured considerably. 
•' Upon heavy lands. 

Upon clay soils, where wheat forms a principal 
part of the crop, where great quantities of beans are 
cultivated, and few turnips sown, unless for the use 
of milch cows, the rotting of dung is not only a 
troublesome but an expensive affair. Independent 
of what is consumed by the orJinaty farm stock, 
the overplus of the straw must, somehow or other, 
be rotted, by lean cattle kept in the fold-yard, who 
either receive the straw in racks, or have it thrown 
across the yard, to be eaten and trodden down by 
them. According to this mode of consumption, it 
is evident that a still greater necessity arises for a 
frequent removal of this unmade dung; otherwise, 
from the trampling of beasts, and the usual want of 
moisture, it would compress so much as altogether 
to prevent putrefaction. To prepare dung suffi- 
ciently upon farms of this description, is at all 
times an arduous task, but scarcely practicable in 
dry seasons; for if it once gets burnt (fire-fanged), 
it is almost physically impossible to bring it into a 
suitable state of preparation afterwards; and, at all 
events, its virtues are thereby considerably dimin- 
ished. 

Straw flung out in considerable portions to the 
fold-yard, after being compressed by the trampling 
of cattle, becomes rather like a well-packed stack, 
than a mass of dung in a preparatory state. The 
small quantity of water and dung made by the ani- 
mals is barely sufficient to cause a slight fermenta- 
tion; and this slight fermentation, when the heap 
gets into a compressed state, is sure to bring on 
fire-fang, as already said, after which, its original 
powers can rarely be restored. To prevent such 
an injury, no measure can be so successfully used, 
as a frequent removal of this "inraade dung, espe- 
cially if the weather is wet at the time. If people 
can stand out to work, there cannot be too much 
v/etness while executing this operation; for there 
is always such a quantity of the straw that has not 
passed through the entrails of the cattle, as renders 
it almost impossible to do injury, in the first in- 
stance, by an excess of moisture. 

2 B 2 



318 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



It IS therefore recommended, upon eveiy clay- 
land farm, especially those of considerable size, 
that the fold-yard be frequently cleared; and that 
the greatest care be taken to mix tlie stable or 
horse-dung in a regular way with what is gathered 
in tiie fold-yard, or made by other animals, in 
order that a gradual heat or fermentation may be 
speedily produced. Where the materials are of 
the sorts now described, (that is, a small quantity 
of dung, or excrementitious matter, and a large 
store of unrotten straw, only partially moistened), 
110 damage can ensue from putting horses and carts 
upon the heap; nay, a positive benefit will be gain- 
ed from this slight compression. 

The heap or pile, in the case of turnip dung, 
should be formed in a secluded spot, if such can be 
got at hand; because the less it is exposed to the 
influence of the sun and wind, so much faster will 
fermentation proceed. It should be constructed on 
a broad basis, which lessens the bounds of the ex- 
tremities; and separate heaps are necessary, so that 
too much may not be deposited at once. By shift- 
ing the scene frequently, and allowing each cover- 
ing or coat to settle and ferment, before laying on 
any more, the most happy effects will follow, and 
these heaps (at least all such as are completed be- 
fore the fiist of May), may reasonably be expected 
to be in a fit condition for applying to the summer 
fallow fields, in the end of July, or first of August, 
[f the exterual parts get diy at any time during the 
process, it v^ill be proper to water them thorough- 
ly, and in many cases to turn over the heap com- 
pletely. It may be added, that much benefit has 
been experienced from laying a thick coating of 
snow upon such heaps, as, by the gradual melting 
thereof, the whole moisture is absorbed, and a 
strong lermentation immediately follows. 

Upon large farms, wliere the management of 
manure is suiBciently understood and practised, it 
is an important matter to have dunghills of all 
age^ and ready for use whenever the situation of 
a^'field calls for a restorative. No method of ap- 
plication to clay soils, however, is so beneficial as 
during the year of summer fallow, though in such 
situations, a greater stock of manure is often ga- 
thered than is required for the fields under this 
process. 

As to the proper quantity of dung to be used, 
no greater quantity ought to be given at one time 
than is sufficient to fructify the ground; in other 
words, to render it capable of producing good 
crops, before the time arrives when a fresh dose 
can be administered. 

The spreading of dung. 

The increased attention now bestowed, in all the 
cultivated districts, to the spreading of dung, ori- 
ginated from the measure of limiting the quantity 
applied. When 40, 50, nay even 60 double loads 
were applied to an acre, it was not very difficult 
to cover its surface, even with an imperfect sepa- 
ration, though it certainly was impracticable to 
bury the big lumps with a furrow of ordinary size; 
but when the quantity was brought down to 1 8 and 
20 loads, and, more so, when 12 or 14 loads were 
thought sufficient, a different conduct became ab- 
solutely necessary. Another improvement also 
followed, viz. spreading dung when raw or green, 
that is, immediately after the carts; in which way, 
at least during summer, it will be separated at one 
half the expense, and to much better purpose, than 
when it is suffered to lay in the heap for a day or 
two. In short, it is a sure mark of a slovenly far- 
mer, to see dung remain unspread in a field, un- 
less it be in the winter months, when it may hap- 
pen that hands cannot be got for carrying on such 
operations with the usual regularity. At that time 
the injury sustained by losing a few days is not 



great, though as a general rule it will be found that 
the expense is always smallest when the carts are 
regularly followed up. 

Application of dung to turnips. 

When turnip husbandry forms the chief branch 
of fallow process, dung is naturally of a superior 
quality, and requires little artificial management 
for bringing it to a proper slate of preparation. In 
the greatest part of Scotland, and even in England, 
where the drill and horse-hoeing system is prac- 
tised, the common, and undoubtedly the most ap- 
proved, way of applying dung to turnips, is by lay- 
ing it in the intervals of the drills or small ridges, 
which are previously made up by a bout, or two 
furrows of the plough. These drills or ridges are 
formed at a distance of from 24 to 30 inches from 
the centre of each; and by driving the horses and 
cart along the middle one of the space intended to be 
manured, the dung is drawn out either by the car- 
ter, or by another man specially appointed for that 
purpose, in such proportions as the poverty of the 
soil, or the disposition of the occupier, may reckon 
necessary. If the breadth of three drills are only 
taken at a time, the dung stands a better chance 
of being regularly administered; for it often hap- 
pens, that when, a greater number are included in 
one space, the two outside drills receive -a less 
quantity than the intervening ones. Those, there- 
fore, who limit themselves to three drills, gene- 
rally divide the spreaders; as it requires six hands, 
women or boys, to follow up what is usually called 
a head of carts, the number of carts to a head being 
regulated by the distance of the dung-hill, or the 
kind of road over which it is to be carried. 

The quantity of dung usually given for turnips 
is from 12 to 15 double cart loads, of one and a 
half cubic yards each, to a Scots acre. In some 
cases only 10 loads are given: but the land ought to 
be in high condition where such a small quantity 
is bestowed. In fact, no soil can be made too 
rich for turnips or other green crops, peas except- 
ed; but the object to be attended to in this, and 
every other case, is an allotment of the manure 
collected upon the premises, in such a way as that 
the greatest possible return over the whole farm, 
not from a particular field, may he gained by the 
occupier. 

Application of dung to potatoes. 

The culture is in several respects similar to that 
of turnips, but in others it dilFecs materially. Po- 
tatoes are planted earlier in the season than tur- 
nips: the ground rarely receives so much work; 
the soils upon which they are cultivated are more 
variable; and the dung considered to be most suit- 
able for promoting their growth, does not require 
such high preparation. Many farmers, notwith- 
standing these circumstances, follow out the same 
process as described under the head of turnips. 
After the ground receives three, or at most four 
ploughings, the drills are made up, dung deposit- 
ed in the intervals, the seed planted above the 
dung, and the drills reversed; after which, say at 
the distance of 2 or 3 weeks, a slight harrowing is 
given. They avoid making up drills, but duiig the 
ground in what may be called the broad-cast way; 
and, entering the plough, plant the seed in every 
third furrow, into which only the dung is raked; 
and so on till the whole is finished. Before the 
young plants appear, or even after they are above 
the surface, a complete harrowing is given, which is 
considered as equal to a hand-hoeing; and from the 
dung being completely covered, scarce any of it is 
dragged up, while the seed, being undermost, 
none of it is disturbed by the operation. Several 
farmers do not dung their potatoe fields; but, re- 
serving the manure till the crop is removed, find 
the remainder of the rotation greatly benefited. Pa 



HUSBANDRY. 



319 



tatoes scourge severely, and, in general cases, re- 
quire a larger quantity of dung than turnips; but, 
as the extent of land under this culture is not great 
in common fiirraing, few people grudge this extra 
quantity, because, except in a few favoured situa- 
tions, a good crop cannot otherwise be reasonably 
expected. 

To manure clayey soils. 
Upon all soils incumbent on a wet or close bot- 
tom, whether characterized as clay, loam, or moor, 
it may be laid down as a primary principle, that 
dung cannot be so profitably applied, as while the 
ground is under the process of summer fallow. 

When the ground is under the process of sum- 
mer fallow, it is then the best and most appropri- 
ate time for applying manure to clay soils. When 
und'^r this process, the soil, comparatively speak- 
ing, is reduced into minute particles, which affords 
an opportunity of conveying the virtues of manure 1 
through the veins or pores of all its parts. The ! 
soil, at that time, is also freed from its aboriginal 
inhabitants, quickens and other root weeds, who 
claim a preferable right of support; hence the arti- 
ficial plants, afterwards cultivated, possess, with- 
out a rival, such supplies as have been granted, 
without any deduction whatever. In short, with- 
out laying any stress upon elementary effects dur- 
ing the process, it does not admit of a doubt, that 
the same quantity of manure, bestowed upon tne 
ground when summer fallowed, will produce 
a greater return to the occupier, than if it had been 
applied at any other stage of the rotation. 

Dung should not be laid upn fallows before they 
are completely cleaned: though, no doubt, in wet 
summers, that operation is not easily accomplished. 
To make sure work, the fallov/s, if possible 
should be early stirred, and no opportunity slipped 
of putting them forward with the utmost expedi- 
tion; for it rarely happens, that much good can be 
done towards the destruction of root-weeds after 
the month of July. Before that time a judicious 
farmer will have his fallow dressed up, and in a 
suitable state for receiving dung. It should be well 
harrowed, if the weather is favourable, previous 
to the dung being laid on; and if rolled, or made 
smooth, the spreaders will be enabled to perform 
their task with much more precision. 

At the proper season every other operation ought 
to be laid aside, so that dung may be expeditiously 
drove out. To do it in wet weather is attended wiih 
pernicious effects; the horses are oi)pressed, a long- 
er time is required, the land is i)oached, and in 
some measure deprived of all benefit from the pre- 
vious fallow. These circumstances will be reflect- 
ed upon by the attentive farmer; they will stimu- 
late him not to lose a moment when the weather is 
favourable, and prevent him from forcing on the 
work, when injury, rather than benefit, may be 
expected. After all, seasons are sometimes so 
perverse; as to render every rule nugatory. These 
must, however, be taken as they come; avoiding at 
such times to break the land down, acclivating the 
ridges sufficiently, and keeping the water-fuiTows 
completely clear. 

Quantity of duns' for fallotvs. 
The quantity of dung usually applied to fallows 
in ordinary condition is from fourteen to twenty 
double loads per acre; though often good crops are 
reaped when twelve loads only had been given. 
Much, however, depends upon the condition of 
the land, upon the quality of the dung, and the. way 
in which the carts are loaded. A decent load may 
contain one cubic yard and three-fourths, and 
■weigh a ton, or thereabout. It also deserves no- 
tice, that less dung will serve some lands than 
others, especially if they have lately been plough- 
ed from prass; but, at all events, sixteen such loads 



as are mentioned, will answer for any sort of soil, 
unless it has been previously quite wrought out. 
Even if it were in this forlorn state, it is better 
management to dung upon the stubble of the first 
crop, than to give an over-dose when under sum- 
mer fallow. 

Time of spreading the dung. 

All dung laid upon summer fallow ought to be 
spread the moment it is pulled out of the cart. It 
can at no other time be done so well, or so cheap: 
though on many farms, small ones especially, where 
a fulh supply of hands are wanting, this bene- 
ficial practice is much neglected. Four spreaders 
boys or girls, with an attentive oversman to follow 
up and supply any omissions, are sufficient for one 
head of carts; the number included in a bead being 
regulated by the distance of the field from the dung- 
hill. Some farmers employ a person, on whom 
they can depend, to draw the dung from the cart, 
who has judgment to proportion it according to 
circumstances, and is responsible for any failure in 
the execution: but the carter is the person usually 
employed, though, unless a boy is given him to 
drive, a regular distribution can hardly be expect- 
ed. To insure accuracy in laying down, fields are 
sometimes thrown into a dam-broad figure; and, a 
heap being drawn out into each square, you could 
have nearly ascertained the quantity required for 
the whole. The great object, after a regular and 
economical distribution, is to shake and part the 
whole completely; as, by minute attention to this 
circumstance, a much greater effect is necessarily 
produced. 

Intermediate dunging. 

After the fallows are dunged, the remainder in 
hand is reserved for what may be called t'he inter- 
mediate dunging, generally bestowed either upon 
clover stubbles, upon wheat stubbles, previously to 
taking beans, or upon bean stubbles bef'-ire the seed 
furrow is given for wheat. It is obvious, that the 
farmer must be i-egulated, in this intermediate 
dunging, by the weather at the time, though it 
rarely happens but that dung may be got out upon 
clover stubbles at one time of the winter or other. 
When applied to beans, a beneficial practice, the 
dung, as we said above, is by some people laid upon 
the M'heat stubble, and ploughed down before win- 
ter; hence it is in full action in the spring, when 
the seed furrow is given. Others make up drills 
at seed time, depositing the dung in the intervals, 
as for turnips or potatoes; but it seldom occurs that 
weather can then be got, at least on real bean soils, 
for executing this management. 

Many arable farms, under the ftrictest economy, 
are unable to furnish supplies for an intermediate 
dunging, at least to its full extent: but persons so 
circumstanced have it always in their power to 
overcome this defect, au'l preserve a regular rota- 
tion, by keeping certain fields longer in grass, 
■which of course wiJl yield weightier crops when 
broken up, and stand less in need of manure during 
the after rotation. As, for instance, in a rotation 
of six, and it is here that the greatest short-coming 
is felt, gi-ass seeds to a certain extent, say a half, 
may be thrown in with the crop of wheat taken 
after fallow, whicli is the second year of the rota- 
tion; this part may be pastured for three years, and 
broken up in the sixth for oats, which concludes the 
course. Again in a rotation of eight, grass seeds, 
in like manner, may be sown with a ]iart of the 
fallow wheat, which part can be pastured for three 
years, then broken up for oats, succeeded by beans 
and wheat. By such arrangements, made aceoi-d- 
ing to circumstances, it is an easy matter to pre. 
serve a regular rotation, and to proportion the corr, 
crops, to the Quantity of manure collected upon 
the premises. 



320 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



To increase the quantity of dung by soiling. 

The practice of soiling, or feeding horses or cat- 
tle in the house or farm- yard, is eminently calcu- 
la'ed to increase the quantity of manure upon every 
fartr., and to improve its quality. 

The soiling of horses, in the summer months, 
on green clover and rye-grass, is a practice which 
prcviiils in every corn district, where farm labour 
is regularly executed. The utility of the prac- 
tice (ioes not need the support of argument; for it 
is not only economical to the farmer, but saves 
much fatigue to the poor animal: besides, the 
quantity of dung thereby gathered is considerable. 

Oxen and cows, of all sorts, might be supported 
and ted in like manner, during the whole of the 
gr»ss season. It is well known that milch-cows 
have, in several instances, been so kept; but it has 
rarely happened, that other descriptions of cattle 
have been fed for the butcher according to this 
mode, though it is perfectly practicable. 

The chief benefit of soiling may be considered as 
arising from the immense quantity of fins dung 
which would thus be pccumulated, and which can 
be returned to the ground in the succeeding sea- 
son, after being properly fermented and prepared. 
In all corn-farms, at least those of clayey soils, it is 
a work of great difficulty to rot the straw produced 
upon it; and much of it is misapplied, in conse- 
quence of such soils being naturally unfit for rais- 
ing green winter-crops. 

"if a numerous stock of cattle were kept either in 
the house, or in separate divisions of the fold-yard, 
all the straw threslied in the summer months might 
be immediately converted into dung, the quality of 
which would be equal, if not superior, to what is 
made from turnips consumed at the stake. 

Dung is the mother of good crops; and it appears 
that no plan can be devised by which a large quan- 
tity can be so easily and cheaply gathered, or by 
which straw can be so effectually rotted and ren- 
■lered beneficial to the occupier of a clay-land farm, 
»s the soiling of grass in the summer season. In 
a word, the dung of animals fed upon green clover, 
may justly be reckoned the richest of all dung. It 
Qiay, from the circumstances of the season, be ra- 
oidly prepared, and may be applied to the ground 
It a vei-y early period, much earlier than any other 
sort of dung can be used with advantage. 
To make composts. 

The use c*^ manure, in the shape of compost, or 
ingredients of various qualities, mixed together in 
certain proportions, has long been a favourite prac- 
tice with many farmers: though it is only in par- 
'iicular situations that the practice can be exten- 
sively or profitably executed. The ingredients 
^sed in these composts are chiefly earth and Hmer 
sometimes dung, where the earth is poor; but lime 
may be regarded as the main agent of the process, 
ioting as a stimulus for bringing the powers of the 
^eap into action. Lime, in this view, may be con- 
sidered as a kind of yeast, operating upon a heap 
»f earth as yeast does upon flour or meal. It is 
obvious, therefore, that unless a sufficient quantity 
'■s given, the heap may remain untermented: in 
vh'ich case little benefit will be derived from it as 
i manure. 

The best kind of earth for compost is that of 
the alluvial sort, which is always of a rich greasy 
substance, often mixed with marl, and in every re- 
spect calculated to enrich and invigorate barren 
soils, especially if they are of a light and open 
texture. Old yards, deep head-lands, and scourings 
Df ditches, offer themselves as the basis of com- 
post middens; but it is proper to summer fallow 
them before hand, so that they may be entirely free 
of weeds. When the lime is mixed with the soil 
of these middens, repeated turnings are necessary, 



that the whole may be suitably fermented; and sorai 
care is required to apply the fermented mass at t 
proper time to the field on which it is to be used 
The benefit of such a compost in nourishing soils 
is even greater than what is gained by dressing 
them with dung. 

JLord Jlleado-wbank''s directions for making com- 
post of peat-moss. 

Let the peat moss, of which compost is to be 
formed, be thrown out of the pit for some weeks 
or months, in order to lose its redundant moisture. 
By this means, it is rendered the lighter to carry, 
and less compact and weighty, when made up with 
fresh dung for fermentation; and, accordingly, less 
dung is required for the purpose, than if the pre- 
paration is made with peat taken recently from tlie 
pit. The peat taken from near the surface, or at 
a considerable depth, answers equally well. 

Take the peat moss to a dry spot convenient for 
constructing a dunghill to serve the field to be 
manured. Lay the cart-loads of it in two rows, 
and of the dung in a row betwixt them. The dung 
thus lies nearly on an area of the future compost 
dunghill, and the rows of peat should be near 
enough each other, that workmen, in making up 
the compost, m^y be able to throw them together by 
the spade. In making up, let the workmen begin at 
one end; and, at the extremity of the row of dung, 
(which should not extend quite so far at that end 
as the rows of peats on each side of it do,) let thenv 
lay a bottom of peat, six incnes deep and fifteen; 
feet wide, if the grounds admit of it; then throw 
forward, and lay on, about ten inches of peat above 
the bottom of peat; then add from the side rows^ 
about six inches of peat; then four or five of dung/ 
and then six more of peat; then another thin layer 
of dung; and then cover it over with peat at tlie 
end where it was begun, at the two sides, and 
above. The compost should not be raised above 
four feet, or four feet and a half high; otherwise it 
is apt to press too heavily on the under parts, aud 
check the fermentation. When a besrinning is 
thus made, the workmen will proceed working 
backwards, and adding to the columns of compost, 
as they are furnished with the three rows of ma- 
terials directed to be laid down for them. They 
must take care not to tread oh the compost, or 
render it too compact; and, in proportion as the 
peat is wet, it should be made up in lumps, and 
not much broken. 

In mild weather, seven cart-loads of common 
farm-dung, tolerably fresh made, is sufficient for 
twenty-one cart-loads of peat moss; but in cold 
weather, a larger proportion of dung is desirable. 
To every twenty-eight carts of the compost, when 
made up, it is of use to throw on, above it, a cart- 
load of ashes, either made from coal, peat, or 
wood; half the quantity of slacked lime, the moi-e 
finely powdered the better. 

The compost, after it is made up, gets into a 
general heat, sooner or later, according to the 
weather, and the condition of the dung. In sum- 
mer, in ten days or sooner; in winter, not perhaps 
for many weeks, if the cold is severe. In the for- 
mer season, a stick should be kept in it in different 
parts, to pull out and feel now and then; for, if it 
approaches blood-heat, it should either be watered 
or turned over: and, on such an occasion, advantage 
may be taken to mix with it a little fresh moss. 
The heat subsides after a time, and with great va- 
riety, according to the weather, the dung, and the 
perfection of the compost; which should then be 
allowed to be untouched, till within three weeks 
of using, when it should be turned over upside 
down, and outside in, and all lumps broken: then 
it comes into a second heat; but soon cools, and 
should be taken out for use. In this state the 



HLSBANDRY. 



321 



whole, except bits of the old decayed wood, ap- 
pears a black free mass, and spreads like garden 
mould. Use it weight for weight, as farm-yard 
dung; and it will be found, in a course of cropping, 
fully to stand the comparison. 

Peat, nearly as dry as garden-mould in seed- 
time, may be mixed with the dung, so as to double 
tlie volume and more of it. Workmen must begin 
with using layers; but, when accustomed to the 
just proportions, if they are furnished with peat 
moderately dry, and dung not lost in litter, they 
throw it up together as a mixed mass, and make a 
less proportion of dung serve for the preparation. 

The rich coarse earth, which is frequently found 
on the surface of peat, is too heavy 'vO be admitted 
into this compost; but it makes an excellent top- 
dressing, if previously mixed and turned over with 
lime. 

Dr Rennie's method of converting moss into ma- 
nure. 

The importance of moss as a manure is now 
generally admitted by all who have had an oppor- 
tunity of making experiments on that subject. The 
Rev. Dr Rennie, of Kilsyth, having proved the 
utility of filtration, has recommended, in private 
letters, to water tlie collected heap of moss for 
about ten days, once each day, very copiously; and 
when that is done, to trim it up to a compact body, 
allow it to dry, and to receive a gentle degree of 
heat. The degree of heat necessary for accom- 
plishing that end, is sufficient, though not disco- 
verable by the hand. If it only affects the ther- 
mometer a little, it is declared to be a manure. 
The Doctor also declares, that moss can be con- 
verted by filtrating steam through it; and more 
expeditiously still, by exposing it to a running 
stream of water. If the water penetrates the moss, 
it expels its poisonous qualities sooner and more 
effectually than any other mode ever devi^sed. 
When it is sufficiently purified by any of these 
means, it must be laid up to dry, and is in a short 
time ready for applying to the land- 
Use of Ume as manure. 

This r'ineral, after undergoing the process of 
calcinati(y.v, has long been applied by British hus- 
bandmen as a stimulus to the soil, and, in consC' 
quence of such an application, luxuriant crops have 
been produced, even upon soils apparently of in- 
ferior quality, and which would have yielded crops 
of trifling value, had this auxiliary been withheld. 
In fact, the majority of soils cannot be cultivated 
■with advantage till they are dressed with lime; 
and whether this beneficial effiict shall be consid- 
ered as an alterative, or as a stimulant, or as a 
manure, it will be found to be the basis of good 
husbandry, and of more use than all other manures 
put together. Wherever lime has been properly 
applied, it has constantly been found to prove as 
much superior to dung, as dung is to the rakings 
of roads, or the produce of peat mire. 

In respect of operation, it is immaterial whether 
lime be used upon grass land or summer-fallow. 
Upon old grass land, it is perhaps best to plough 
first, and to summer-fallow in the second year, 
when lime can be applied. On new and clean 
grass land, it may be limed at the outset, that is, 
before the plough is admitted. 

To lime moorish soils is a hazardous business, 
unless dung is likewise bestowed: but to repeat the 
application upon such soils, especially if they have 
been severely cropped, is almost a certain loss; a 
compost of lime and rich earth is, in such cases, 
the only substitute. 

Strong loams and clays require a full dose to 
bring them into action; such soils being capable 
of absorbing a greater quantity of calcareous mat- 
ter. Lighter soils, however, require less lime to 
2 Q 



stimulate them, and may be injured by adminis- 
tering a quantity that would prove moderately 
beneficial to those of a heavy nature. 

Upon fresh land, or land in a proper state for a 
calcareous application, lime is much superior to 
dung. Its effects continue for a longer period; while 
the crops produced are of a superior kind, and 
less susceptible of injury from the excesses ot 
drought and moisture. Finally, the ground, par- 
ticularly what is of a strong nature, is much easier 
wrought; and, in many instances, the saving of 
labour would almost tempt a judicious farmer to 
lime his land, were no greater benefit derived from 
tlje application than the opportunity thereby gained 
of working it in a perfect manner. 

It may be added, that though strong soils require- 
to be animated with a strong dose of lime, those 
of a light texture will do well with little more than 
half the quantity requisite on the others, especially 
if they are fresh, or have not already received an 
application of calcareous matter. , 

Application of marl. 

In many parts of this island, the value of latid 
has been much augmented by the application of 
marl. Treating of this article in a practical way, 
it may be divided into shell-marl and earth-marL 
Shell-marl is composed of animal shells dissolved; 
earth-marl is a fossil. The colour of the latter is 
various; its hardness being sometimes soft and duc- 
tile, like clay; sometimes hard and solid, like stone; 
and sometimes it is extended into thin beds, like 
slate. Shell-marl is easily distinguished by the 
shells, which always appear in it: but the similarity 
betwixt earth-marl and many other fossil sub- 
stances, renders it difficult to distinguish them. 

Shell-marl is very different in its nature from 
clayey and stone marls, and from its effects upon 
the soil, is commonly classed among the animal 
manures: it does not dissolve with water as the 
other marls do- It sucks it up, and swells with it 
like a sponge. Dr Home says, that it takes six 
times more of acids to saturate it, than any of the 
other marls which he had met with. But the great- 
est difference betwixt the shell-marl and the other 
marls consists in this, the shell-marl contains oils. 
It is uncertain if the other marls contain any oils; 
but this kind contains them in great plenty. 

This marl, it would occm from the qualities 
which it possesses, promotes vegetation in all the 
different ways. It increases the food of plants; it 
communicates to the soil a power of attracting this 
food from the air; it enlarges the pasture of plants; 
and it prepares the vegetable food for entering 
their roots. 

Shelly sand. 

The shelly sand, often found deposited in beds 
in the crevices and level parts of the sea-coasts, is 
another substance capable of being employed, both 
as a manure and stimulant, not only on account of 
its containing calcareous matter, in greater or less 
proportions, but also from the mixture of animal 
and vegetable substances that are found in it. The 
portion of calcareous matter contained in these 
substances must vary according to circumstances; 
but, when the quantity is any way large, and in a 
reduced or attenuated state, the quality is so much 
the more valuable. On that account the quantity 
which ought to be applied to the soil, must be re- 
gulated by the extent of calcareous matter, sup- 
posed, or found, upon trial, to be contained in the 
article. 

Clayey and stone maris. 

The clayey and stone marls are aisnnguisnc*^ •" 
their colours, viz. white, black, blue, and r»-<« 
The white, being of a soft crumbly nature, is con 
sidered to be the best for pasture land; and the 
blue, whicn is more compact and firm, fjv corn 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



land. In the districts where marl is much used, 
these distinctions of management are attended to, 
though either of the kinds may be employed with 
advantage, if the following rules are adhered to: 

If marl is of the blue kind, or of any kind that 
is compact or firm, lay it upon the land early in the 
season, so as the weather may mellow it down be- 
fore the last plough: and, if on pasture land, let it 
also be early laid on, and spread very thin, break- 
ing any lumps afterwards which are not complete- 
ly separated by the first spreading. If raarl is of 
the white, or any of the loose or crumbling sorts, 
it need not be laid on so early; because these va- 
rieties break and dissolve almost as soon as ex- 
posed to the weather. 

Alffa marina, or sea-tveed. 

Sea-weed, a plant that grows upon rocks within 
the sea, is driven ashore after storms, and is found 
to be an excellent article for manuring light and 
dry soils, though of little advantage to those of a 
clayey description. This article may be applied 
on the proper soil with advantage to any crop, and 
.ts effects are immediate, though rarely of long 
continuance. As the coast side lands of the island 
are, in every case, of superior fertility to those that 
are inland, we may attribute this superior fertility 
to the great quantity of manure found upon their 
shores, after every, storm or high tide, whereby the 
resources of the ocean are in a nianner brought for- 
ward for the enrichment of the 'lands locally situ- 
ated for participating in such benefits. 1 he ut- 
most attention has long been paid to tiie gathering 
and laying ou of this valuable manure; aad, from 
the extensive line of British shores, both of the 
main sea and of the numerous estuaries which in- 
dent, and as it were divide the main land, an im- 
mense quantity of sea-weed must annually be col- 
lected from them. 

JlppUcatio7i of sea-ioeed. 

Sea-weed is applied at all seasons to the surface, 
and sometimes, though not so profitably, it is mix- 
ed with untrodden dung, that the process of putre- 
faction may be hastened. Generally speaking, it 
IS at once applied to the soil, which saves labour, 
and prevents that degree of waste which otherwise 
would necessarily happen. Sea-weed is, in one 
respect, preferable to the richest dung; because it 
does not produce such a quantity of weeds. The 
salts contained in sea-weed, and applied with it, is 
the real cause of the after-cleanliness. This may 
be inferred from the general state of coast-sitle 
lands, where sea- weed is used. These lands are 
almost constantly kept iu tillage, and yet are 
cleaner and freer from weeds than those in theinland 
situations, where corn crops are not so often taken. 

When a coast-side farm contains mixed soils, 
the best management is exercised, by applying sea- 
weed to' dry, and dung to clay-land. In this way, 
me full advantage of manure may be obtained, and a 
farm so circumstanced is of infinitely greater va- 
lue, with respect to manuring and labouring, than 
one which contains no such variety. 
Smelting the surface. 

The practice of burning the surface, and apply- 
ing the ashes as manure to the soil that remains, 
has been long prevalent in Britain; and is consi- 
dered as the most advantageous way of bringing in 
and improving all soils, wliere the surface carried 
a coarse sward, and was composed of peat-earth, 
or other inactive substances. The burning of this 
surface has been viewed as the best way of bring- 
ing such soils into action; the ashes, furnished by 
the burning, serving as a stimulant to raise up 
their dormant powers, thereby rendering them fer- 
tile and productive in a superior, degree, tlaan could 
nthenvise be accomplished.: >iJ oiij -jd o/ [fyy>U\,- 



Mr Curwen''s method of burmng .surf ace soil ana 
clay. 

Mounds of seven yards in length, and three and 
a half in breadth, are kindled with 72 Winchester 
bushels of lime. First, a layer of dry sods or 
parings, on which a quantity of lime is spread, 
mixing sods with it, then a covering of 8 inches of 
sods, on which the other half of the lime is spread, 
and covered a foot thick; the height of the mound 
being about a yard. 

In 24 hours it will take fire. The lime should 
be immediately from the kiln. It is better to suf- 
fer it to ignite itself, than to effect it by the opera- 
tion of water. When the fire is fairly kindled, 
fresh sods must be applied. I should recommend 
obtaining a sufficient body of ashes before any clay 
was put on the mounds. The fire naturally rises 
to the top. It takes less time, and does more 
work, to draw down the ashes from the top, and 
not to suffer it to rise above six feet. The former 
practice of burning in kilns was more expensive; 
did much less work; and, in many instances, cal- 
cined the ashes. 

) think it may fairly be supposed that the lime 
adds full its worth to the quality of the ashes. 
Where limestone can be had, I should advise the 
burning a small quantity in the mounds, which 
would be a great iuiprovement to the ashes, and, at 
the same time, help to keep the fire in. 

The general adopting of the system of surface and 
soil clay-burning, is likely to be the most important 
discovery for the interests of agriculture, that has 
occurred since the introduction of the turnip into 
Norfolk, by Lord Townshend. 

To bum moss with the ashes. 

The following directions for burning moss along 
with the ashes are of considerable importance: 
Begin the fire with dry faggots, furze, or straw, 
then put qn dried moss finely minced and well 
beaten with a clapper; and when that is nearly 
bui'ut down, put on moss less dry, but well minced 
and clapped, making holes with a prong to carry 
on the fire, and so adding more moss till a hill of 
ashes, something of the size of a wagon load, is 
accumulated, which, when cold, carry to the bins, 
or store heaps, before the ashes get wet. 

J^r Roscoe''s method of improving moss land. 

The best method of improving moss land, is by 
the application of a calcareous substance in a suffi- 
cient quantity to convert the moss into a soil, and 
by the occasional use of animal or other extraneous 
manures, such as the course of cultivation, and the 
nature of the crops may be found to require. 

After setting fire to the heap and herbage on the 
moss, and ploughing it down as far as practicable, 
Mr Roscoe ploughs a thin sod or furrow with a 
very sharp horse-plough, which he barns in small 
heaps and dissipates; cohaidering it of little use 
but to destroy the tough woods of the ediophoriis, 
nardus stricta, and other plants, whose matted 
roots are almost imperishable. The moss being 
thus brought to a tolerable dry and level substance, 
then plough it in a regular turrow six inches deep: 
and as soon as possible after it is turned up, set 
upon it the necessary quantit)' of marl, not less than 
two hundred cubic yards to the acre. As the marl 
begins to crumble and fall with the sun or frost, it 
is spread over the land with considerable exact- 
ness; after which, put in a crop as early as po.=sible, 
sometimes by the plough, and at others with the 
horse-scuffle, or scarifier, according to the nature 
of the crop; a quantity of manure, setting on about 
20 tons to the acre. Moss land, thus treated, may 
not only be advantageously cropped the first year 
with green crops, as pptatflfi?».,tHrwps,.^c_j,.but 
with any kind of graini.7;t/p •."jjksij! « ■-iiiti'iCM:dt Ut 



HUSBANDRY. 



323 



Peat ami pem ashes iised as manure. 

In the county of Bedford, peat ashes are sold as 
manure, and are used as a top dressing for clovers, 
and sometimes for barley, at the rate of from 40 
to 60 Winchester bushels per acre. They are 
usually spread, during the month nf March, on 
slover; and on the surface of the barley-lands after 
the seed is sown. Peat ashes are i.Iso adnnirably 
useful as manure for turnips, and are easily drilled 
with or over the seed, by means of a drill-box, 
connected with a loaded cart. 

After the quantity required has been cast, a por- 
tion sufficient to kindle a large heap, (suppose two 
cart-loads,) is dried as much as if intended for 
winter's use. A conical pile is then built and 
fired; and as soon as the flame or smoke makes its 
appearance at any of the crevices, it is kept back 
by fi;esh peat, just sufficiently dry to be free from 
water: and tlius the pile is continually increased, 
until it has burnt tiiirty or forty loads, or as much 
more as may be required. The slower the pro- 
cess the better; but, in case of too languid a con- 
sumption, the heap should be stirred by a stick, 
whenever the danger of extinction seems probable. 

In case of rain, the workmen should be prepared 
with some coarse thick turf, with which to cover 
the surface of the cone. 

Coal ashes used as manure. 

Coal ashes may likewise be made a most useful 
article of manure, by mixing with every cart-load 
of them one bushel of lime in its hottest state, 
covering it up in the middle of the heap for about 
12 hours, till the lime be entirely slaked, and in- 
corporating them well together; and, by turning 
the whole (jver two or three times, the cinders, or 
half-burnt parts of the coal, will be reduced to as fine 
a powder as the lime itself. The coal-ashes should, 
however, be carefully kept dry: this mixture will 
he found one of the best improvers of moorish 
and ben^y land. 

JUei/iod of burning' lime -without kilns. 

The practice of lime-burners in Wales has for- 
merly been to burn lime in broad shallow kilns, 
but lately they have begun to manufacture that ar- 
ticle without any Kiln at all. 

They place the lime stone in large bodies, which 
are called coaks, the stones not being broken small, 
as in the ordinary method, and calcine these heaps 
in the way used for preparing charcoal. To pre- 
vent the iiame from bursting out at the top and 
sides of these heaps, turfs and earth are placed 
against them, and the aperture partially closed; 
and the heat is regulated and transfused through 
the wViole mass, that, notwithstanding the increased 
size of the stones, the whole becomes thoroughly 
calcined. As a proof of the superior advantage 
that lime burnt in these clamps or coaks has over 
lime burnt in tne old method, where farmers have 
an option of taking either lime at the same price, 
a preference is invariably given to that burned in 
heaps. This practice has long prevailedin Yorkshire 
and Shropshire, and is also familiar in Scotland. 

jyir Craig''s ittiproved method of burning clay. 
Make an oblong enclosure, of the dimensions 
of a small house — say 15 feet by 10 — of green 
turf-seeds, raised to the height of 3J or 4 feet. In 
the inside of this enclosure air-pipes are drawn 
iliagonally, which communicate with holes left at 
each corner of the exterior wall. These pipes are 
(brmed of sods put on edge, and the space between 
so wide only as another sod can easily cover. In 
each of the four spaces left between the air-pipes 
jind the outer-wall, a fire is kindled with wood and 
dry turf, «nd then the whole of the inside of the 
enclosure or kiln filled with dry turf, which is 
very soon on fire; and, on the top of that, when 
M'ell kindled, is throM'n on the clay, in small quan- 



tities at a time, and repeated as often as necessary, 
which must be regulated by the intensity of the 
burning. The air-pipes are of use only at first, 
because if the fire burns with tolerable keenness, 
the sods forming the pipes will soon be reduced to 
ashes. The pipe on the weather side of the kiln 
only is left open, the mouths of the other three 
being stopped up, and not opened except the wind 
should veer about. As the inside of the enclosure 
or kiln begins to be filled up with clay, the outer 
wall must be raised in height, at least 15 inches 
higher than the top of the clay, for the purpose of 
keeping the wind from acting on the fire. When 
the fire burns through the outer wall, which it 
often does, and particularly when the top is over 
loaded with clay, the breach must be stopped up 
immediately, which can only be effectually done 
by building another sod wall from the foundation 
opposite to it, and the sods that formed that part 
of the first wall are soon reduced to ashes. The 
wall can be raised as high as may be convenient 
to throw on the clay, and the kiln may be increased 
to any size by forming a new wall when the pre- 
vious one is burnt through. 

The principal art in burning consists in having 
the outer wall made quite close and impervious to 
the external air, and taking care to have the top 
always lightly, but completely covered with clay; 
because if the external air should come in contact 
with the fire, either on the top of the kiln, or by 
means of its bursting through the sides, the fire 
will be very soon extinguished. In short, the kilns 
require to be well attended, nearly as closely as 
charcoal-pits. Clay is much easier burnt than 
either moss or loam; — it does not undergo any 
alteration in its shape, and on that account allows 
the fire and smoke to get up easily between the 
lumps; — whereas moss and loam, by crumbling 
down, are very apt to smother the fire, unless care- 
fully attended to. No rule can be laid down for 
regulating the size of the lumps of clay thrown on 
the kiln, as that must depend on the state of the 
fire. After a kiln is fairly set going, no coal or 
wood, or any sort of combustible, is necessary, the 
wet clay burning of itself, and it can only be ex- 
tinguished by intention, or the carelessness of the 
operator, the vicissitudes of the weather having 
hardly any effect on the fires, if properly attended 
to. When the kiln is burning with great keenness, 
a stranger to the operation may be apt to think that 
the fire is extinguished: If, therefore, any person, 
either through impatience, or too great curiosity, 
should insist on looking into the interior of the 
kiln, he will certainly retard and may possibly ex- 
tinguish the fire; — the chief secret consisting, as 
before-mentioned, in keeping out the external air. 
The above method of burning clay may be con- 
sidered as an essential service rendered to agricul- 
ture; as it shews farmers how to convert, at a 
moderate expense, the most worthless barren sub- 
soil into excellent manure. 

To decompose greeen vegetables for manure. 
The following process for the decomposition ot 
green vegetables, for manure, has been practised 
w'ith great success in the counties of Norfolk and 
Suffolk:^ 

Place a layer of vegetable matter a foot thick, 
then a thin layer of lime, alternately; in a few 
hours the decomposition will begin, and, unless 
prevented by sod.s, or a forkful of vegetables, will 
break out into a blaze; this must be guarded 
against; in 24 hours the process will be completed. 
Weeds of every description will answer for vege- 
tables; two pounds' worth of lime will produce 
manure for four acres. Use the vegetables as soon 
after cutting as possible, and the lime fresh from 
the kiln, as distance will allow. 



324 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK 



Bone manure. 
At Hull there is a mill constructed for the pur- 
pose of bruising (not pounding) bones; and the 
dust riddled therefrom is reckoned a sti J stronger 
manure. The same person selects the best bones, 
which are sawn into pieces, for button-moulds and 
knife-handles: and the saw-dust from this operation 
is particularly useful in gardens and hot beds. It 
suits every vegetable, hot-iiouse, or green-house 
pltnt. 

Bone manure is most used in the west of York- 
shire, Holderness, and Lincolnshire, and is best 
adapted for cold and light sandy land. The usual 
quantity per acre is 70 bushels, when used alone; 
but when mixed with ashes, or common manure 
of any sort, 30 bushels per acre is thought quite 
enough. It is applied at the same periods as other 
manure, and has been found in this way to remain 
7 years in the ground. The rough part of this 
manure, after being 5 years in the ground, has 
been gathered off one field and thrown upon another 
of a different soil, and has proved, even then, good 
manure. 

The bones which are best filled with oil and 
marrow are certainly the best manure; and the 
parts generally used for buttons and knife-hafts are 
the thigh and shank bones. The powdered bones 
are dearer, and generally used for hot-beds in gar- 
dens, being too expensive for the field, and not so 
durable as bruised bones, yet, for a short time, 
more productive. 

A dry, light, or gentle soil, is best adapted for 
the use of bone-manure; as it is supposed that, in 
land which retains wet, the nutritive part of the 
bone washes to the surface of it and does not in- 
corporate sufficiently with the soil. 

Bruised bones are better when mixed with ashes, 
or any other manure, as the juice of the bones is 
then more equally spread over the field. Bone 
manure ought to be ploughed into the land in til- 
lage. On the grass the powder should be sown in 
the hand. 

This manure is used on land before described, 
to the extent of several thousand acres in the higher 
parts of Nottinghamshire, the Wolds (or high 
light land) in Lincolnshire, and the East and West 
Riding of Yorkshire. 

Moss used as manure. 
Moss-earth will, without any preparation what- 
ever, operate as a manure to any other soil. The 
extreme cohesiveness of clay is often a bar to its 
improvement: pure sand is unproductive from a 
contrary cause. If these are mixed with each 
other, or if moss-earth is mixed with either, they 
will be cured of these defects. The tenacious clay 
will be rendered more open; the moisture will 
more easily percolate; a greater scope will be given 
to the roots of plants; they will not be so retentive 
of moisture in wet weather, nor so adhesive when 
dry. 

A mixture of moss among sand Avill deepen the 
soil, render it more retentive of moisture, and 
prevent the urop from being so readily injured by 
the drought. 

But it is much better to bring the moss into a 
course of putridity by some fermenting admixture 
before it is applied to any soil. If no such mixture 
can be procured, let the moss-earth be thrown up 
in heaps, first exposed to the frost, and then to the 
otiicr changes of weather for a year or two; and if 
it is turned, some sand or clay mixed with it, and 
the whole exposed for two seasons to the weather, 
it will form a tolerable manure. 

If moss-earth is minutely mixed with newly 
staked iime, in a powdery state, and laid up for a 
tew months, and once or twice turned over, well 
brok.cn, and a small quantity of new lime thrown 



in when turned over, the antiseptic qualHies of the 
mass, in the course of a year after being so mixed, 
will be overcome, and the moss brought into a state 
of rapid decomposition, and thereby formed into 
as good manure as so much straw, or other vege- 
tables, that bar" been taken from the arable lands. 
To prepare it -with lime. 
Dig up the Uioss, and throw it into heaps after 
harvest, or early in winter, so that the frost may 
operate, and in part reduce its texture, before the 
drought forms it into peat. When dug up, and 
exposed to summer drought, before the frost has 
loosened its adhesion, it becomes a real peat, and 
will not be again so easily broken down by the 
weather. 

After being exposed to the weather for a whole 
winter, the moss-earth may b*e removed in the 
spring to the field to which it is intended to be 
applied, and when it is between wet and dry, 
thrown up, and mixed with about a fifth or sixth 
part of its weight of hot newly-slaked lime, in a 
powdery state. The moss should be as much bro- 
ken as possible, and minutely mixed with the lime. 
Various substances used as manure. 
J. B. Bailey, Esq. lately presented to the Agri- 
cultural Society of Manchester, the following enu- 
meration of substances which may be applied use- 
fully as manures instead of stable dung, viz. mud, 
sweepings of the streets, and coal-ashes; night soil; 
bones; refuse matters, as sweepings and rubbish of 
houses, &c. sea-weed, sea-shells, and sea-gravel, 
river-weeds, sweepings of roads, and spent tanner's 
bark to mix with lime. Peat or moss, decayed ve- 
getables, putrid water, the ashes of weeds, &c. the 
refuse of bleacher's ashes, soap suds, or ley, peat 
ashes, water in-floating, refuse salt. 

Plaster of Paris used as manure. 
Plaster of Paris is used as a manure in Pennsyl- 
vania. The best kind is imported from hills in the 
vicinity of Paris: it is brought down the Seine, and 
exported from Havre de Grace. The lumps com- 
posed of flat shining specula are preferred to those 
which are formed of round particles like sand; thej 
simple method of finding out the quality is to pul-' ' 
verize some, and put it dry into an iron pot over 
the fire, when that which is good will soon boil, 
and great quantities of the fixed air escape by ebul- 
lition. It is pulverized by first putting it in a 
stamping-mill. The finer its pulverization the 
better, as it will thereby be more generally diffused. 
It is best to sow it on a wet day. The most ap- 
proved quantity for grass is six bushels per acre. 
No art is required in sowing it more than making 
the distribution as equal as possible on the sward 
of grass. It operates altogether as a top manure, 
and therefore should not be put on in the spring 
until the principal frosts are over and vegetation 
hath begun. The general time for sowing in Ame- 
rica, is in April, May, June, July, August, and 
, even as late as September. Its effects will gen- 
j erally appear in ten or fifteen days ; after which the 
growth of the grass will be so great as to produce 
a large burden at the end of six weeks after sowing. 
It must be sown on dry land, not subject to bt 
overflown. It has been sown on sand, loam, and 
clay, and it is difficult to say on which it has best 
answered, although the effect is sooner visible on 
sand. It has been used as a manure in this state 
for twelve years; for, like other manure, its con- 
tinuance very much depends on the nature ot the 
soil on which it is placed. 

Mode of applying blubber as a manure. 
This is a very rich ingredient, as well for arable 
as pasture land, when mixed at the rate of one ton 
of blubber to 20 loads of mould, and 1 chaldron of 
lime, per acre. It must be turned over and pul- 
verized; and ^hen it has lain in this state three 



HUSBANDRY. 



328 



or four months, it will become fit for use, and may 
ne put upon the land in such quantities as the qual- 
ity of the land to be manured requires. It is a very- 
strong manure, and very excellent. 

Application of manures to land. 
Early in autumn, after the hay crop is removed, 
18 the most convenient and least objectionable pe- 
riod for the purpose. The common practice is to 
apply manures, during the frost, in the winter. 
But the elastic fluids being the greatest supports 
of vegetation, manures should be applied under 
circumstances that favour their generation. These 
will occur in spring, after the grass has, in some 
degree, covered the ground, the dung being then 
shaded from the sun. After a frost, much of the 
virtues of the dung will be washed away by the 
thaw, and its soluble parts destroyed: and in a 
frosty stale, the ground is incapable of absorbing 
liquids. 

Management of arable land. 

Alternate husbandry, or the system of having le- 
guminous and culmiferous crops to follow each 
other, with some modifications, is practicable on 
every soil. According to its rules, the land would 
rarely getintoa foul and exhausted state; at least, if 
foul and exhausted under alternate husbandry, mat- 
ters would be much worse were any other system fol- 
lowed. The rotation may be long or short, as is 
consistent with the richness of the soil, on which it 
is executed, and other local circumstances. The 
crops cultivated may be any of the varieties which 
compose any of the two tribes, according to the na- 
ture of soil and climate of the district where the 
rotation is exercised, and where circumstances ren- 
der-ploughing not so advantageous as pasturing, the 
land may remain in grass, till these circumstances 
are obviated; care being always taken, when it is 
broken up, to follow alternate husbandly during 
the time it is under tillage. 

In thi'\ way we think it perfectly practicable to 
follow the alternate system in every situation; nor 
do we consider the land being in grass for two, 
three, or four years, as a departure from that sys- 
tem, if called for by a scarcity of manure, poverty 
of soil, want of markets for corn, or other acciden- 
tal circumstances. The basis of every rotation we 
nold to be either a bare summer fallow, or a fal- 
low on which drill turnips are cultivated, and its 
conclusion to be witli the crop taken in the year 
preceding a return of fallow or drilled turnips, 
■when, of course, a new rotation commences. 
First rotatio7i of crops. 

According to this rotation, wheat and drilled 
beans are the crops to be cultivated, though clover 
and rye-grass may be taken for one year, in place 
of beans, should such a variety be viewed as more 
eligible. The rotation begins with summer fallow 
because it is only on strong deep lands that it can 
be profitably practised; and it may go on for any 
length of time, or so long as the land can be kept 
clean, though it ought to stop the moment that the 
land gets into a contrary condition. A considera- 
ble quantity of manure is required to go on suc- 
cessfully; dung should be given to eacli bean crop; 
and if this crop is drilled, and attentively horse- 
hoed, the rotation may turn out to be one of the 
most profitable that can be exercised. 
Second rotation. 

Upon loams and clays, where it may not be ad- 
visable to carry the first rotation into execution, a 
iifferent one can be practised; according to which 
labour will be more divided, and the usual grains 
more generally cultivated; as, for instance: — 

1. Fallow, with dung. 2. Wheat. 3. Beans, 
drilled and horse-hoed. 4. Barley. 5. Clover 
and rye-grass. 6. Oats, or wheat. 7. Beans, drill- 
ed and horse-hoed. 8. Wheat. 



This rotation is excellently calculated to insure 
an abundant return through the whole of it, provi- 
ded diKig is administered upon the clover stubble. 
Without this supply, the rotation would be crip- 
pled, and inferior crops of course produced in the 
concluding years. 

Third rotation. 

This rotation is calculated for clays and loams 
of an inferior description to those already treated 
of. 

1. Fallow, with dung. 2. Wheat. 3. Clover 
and Rye-grass. 4. Oats. 5. Hians, drilled and 
horse-hoed. 6. Wheat. 

According to this rotation, the rules of good hus- 
bandry are studiously practised, while the sequence 
is obviously calculated to keep the land in good or- 
der, and in such a condition as to insure crops of 
the greatest value. If manure is bestowed, either 
upon the clover stubble, or before the beans are 
sown, the rotation is one of the best that can be de- 
vised for the soils mentioned. 

Fourth rotation. 

On thin clays, gentle husbandry is indispensably 
necessary, otherwise the soil may be exhausted, 
and the produce unequal to the expense of cultiva- 
tion. Soils of this description will not improve 
much while under grass; but unless an additional 
stock of manure can be procured, there is a neces- 
sity of refreshing them in that way, even though 
the produce sliould, in the meantime, be compara- 
tively of small value. The fol'lo wing rotation i s an 
excellent one. 

1. Fallow, with dung. 2. Wheat. 3. Grass, 
pastured, but not too early eaten. 4. Grass. .'5. 
Grass. 6. Oats. 

This rotation may be shortened or lengthened, 
according to circumstances, but should never ex- 
tend further in point of ploughing, than when 
dung can be given to the fallow break. Tfiis is the 
key-stone of the whole; and if it is neglected, the 
rotation is rendered useless. 

Fifth rotation. 

Peat-earth soils are not friendly to wheat unless 
aided by a quantity of calcareous matter. Taking 
them in a general point of view, it is not advisable 
to cultivate wheat; but a crop of oats may almost 
be depended upon, provided the previous manage- 
ment has been judiciously e-tecuted. If the sub- 
soil of peat-earth lands be retentive of moisture, 
the process ought to commence with a bare sum- 
mer fallow; but if such are incumbent on free and 
open bottoms, a crop of turnips may be substituted 
for fallow, according to which method, the surface 
will get a body which naturally it did not possess. 
Grass, on such soils, must always occupy a great 
space of every rotation, because physical circum- 
stances render regular cropping utterly impracti- 
cable. 

1. Fallow, or turnips, with dung. 2. Oats, of 
an early variety. 3. Clover, and a considerable 
quantity of perennial rye grass. 4. Pasture for 
several years, till circumstances permit the land to 
be broken up, when oats are to be repeated. 
Sixth rotation. > 

Light soils are easily managed, though to pro- 
cure a full return of the profit which they are ca- 
pable of yielding, requires generally as much 
attention as is necessary in the management of 
those of a stronger description. Upon light soils, 
a bare summer fallow is seldom called for, as 
cleanliness may be preserved, by growing turnips, 
and other leguminous articles. Grass also is ot 
eminent advantage upon such soils, often yielding 
a greater profit than what is afforded by culmifer- 
ous crops. 

1. Turnips. 9. Spring wheat, or barley. 3 
Clover and rye-grass. 4. Oats, or wheat. 

2 C 



326 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



, This rotation would be greatly improved, were 
it extended to eight years, whilst the ground by 
such an extension, would be kept fresh, and con- 
stantly in good condition. As for instance, were 
seeds for pasture sown in the second year, the 
ground kept three years under grass, then broken 
ap for oats in the sixth year, drilled with beans and 
peas in the seventh, STid sown with wheat in the 
eighth, the rotation would be complete; because it 
included every branch of husbandry, and admitted 
a variety in management generally agreeable to the 
soil, and always favourable to the interest of culti- 
vators. The rotation may also consist of six crops, 
were the land kept only one year in grass, though 
few situations admit, of so much cropping, unless 
additional manure is within reach. 
Seventh rotation. 
Sandy soils, when properly manured, are well 
adapted to turnips, though it rarely happens that 
wheat can be cultivated on them with advantage, 
unless they are dressed with alluvial compost, 
marl, clay, or some such substances, as will give a 
body or strength to them which they do not natu- 
rally possess. Barley, oats, and rye, the latter 
especially, are, however, sure crops on sands; and, 
in favourable seasons, will return greater profit 
than can be obtained from wheat. 

1. Turnips, consumed on the ground. 2. Bar- 
ley. 3. Grass. 4. Rye, or Oats. 

By keeping the land three years in grass, the 
rotation would be extended to six years, a measure 
highly advisable. 

From what has been stated, every person capa- 
ble of judging will at once perceive the facility of 
arranging husbandry upon correct principles, and 
of cropping the ground in such a way as to make 
it produce abundant returns to the occupier, whilst 
at the same time it is preserved in good condition, 
and never impoverished or exhausted. All these 
things are perfectly practicable under the alternate 
system, though it is doubtful whether they can be 
gained under any other. 

It may be added, that winter sown crops, or 
crops sown on the winter furrow, are most eligible 
on all clayey soils. 

Ploughing, with a view to clean soils of the de- 
scription under consideration, has little effect un- 
less given in the summer months. This renders 
summer fallow indispensably necessary; and, with- 
out this radical process, none of the heavy and 
wet soils can be suitably managed, or preserved 
in a good condition. 

To adopt a judicious i-otation of chopping for 
every soil, requires a degv :e of judgment in the 
farmer, whicli can only be gathered from observa- 
tion and experience. The old rotations were cal- 
culated to wear out the soil, and to render it un- 
productive; but the modern rotations, such as 
those which we have described, are founded on prin- 
ciples which insure a full return from the soil, 
without lessening its value, or impoverishing its 
condition. Much depends, however, upon the man- 
ner in which the diiferent processes are executed; 
for the best arranged rotation may be of no avail, 
if the processes belonging to it are imperfectly and 
unreasonably executed. 

7'o cultivate wheat. 
On soils really calculated for wheat, though in 
difterent degrees, summer fallow is the first and 
leading step to gain a good crop or crops of that 
gi-ain. The first furrow should be given before 
winter, or as early as the other operations of the 
farm will admit; and every attention should be 
used to go as deep as possible; for it rarely hap- 
pens that any of the succeeding furrows exceed the 
first one in that respect. Tho number of after- 
ploughings must be regulated by the condition of 



the ground and the state of the weather; but, in ge- 
neral, it may be observed, that ploughing in length 
and across, alternately, is the way by which the 
ground will be most completely cut, and the inten- 
tion of fallowing accomplished. 

Varieties of seed. 

Wheat may be classed under two principal di- 
visions, though each of these admits of several sub- 
divisions. The first is composed of all the varieties 
of red wheat. The second division comprehends 
the whole varieties of white wheat, which again 
may be arranged under two distinct heads, -namely, 
thick chaffed and thin chaffed. 

The thick chaffed varieties were formerly in 
greatest repute, generally yielding the whitest and 
finest liour, and, in dry, seasons, not inferioi in 
produce to the other; but since 1799, when the dis- 
ease called mildew, to which they are constitution- 
ally predisposed, raged so extensively, they have 
gradually been going out of fashion. 

The thin chaffed wheats are a hardy class, and 
seldom mildewed, unless the weather be particu- 
larly inimical during the stages of blossoming, 
filling, and ripening, though some of them are 
rather better qualified to resist that destructive 
disorder than others. In 1799, thin chaffed wheats 
were seriously injured; and instances were not 
wanting to show, that an acre of them, with re- 
spect to value, exceeded an acre of thick chaffed 
wheat, quantity and quality considered, not less 
than fifty per cent. Since that time, therefore, 
their culture has rapidly increased; and to this cir- 
cumstance may, in a great measure, be attributed 
the high character which thin chaffed wheats now 
bear. 

MLethod ofaotving. 

Sowing in the broad-cast way may be said to be 
the mode universally practised. Upon well pre- 
pared lands, if the seed be distributed equally, it 
can scarcely be sown too thin; perhaps two bushels 
per acre are sufficient; for the heaviest crops at 
autumn are rarely those which show the most 
vigorous appearance through the winter months. 
Bean stubbles require more seed than summer fal- 
lows, because the roughness of their surface prevents 
such an equal distribution; and clover leas ought to 
be sti).l thicker sown than bean stubbles. Thin sow- 
ing in spring ought not to be practised, otherwise 
the crop will be late, and imperfectly ripened. No 
more harrowing should be given to fields that have 
been fallowed, than what is necessary to cover the 
seed, and level the surface sufficiently. Ground, 
which is to lie in a broken down state through the 
winter, suffers severely when an excessive harrow- 
ing is given, especially it it is incumbent on a 
close bottom; though, as to the quantity necessary, 
noae can give an opinion, except those who are 
personally present. 

To sotu grain by ribbing. 

The ribbing of grain crops was introduced into 
Northumberland, in the year 1810. The process 
is as follows: Suppose the land in fallow, or tur- 
nips eat off, let it be gathered into ridges of twelve 
feel each; then harrow it well, particularly the 
furrows of the ridges; after which take a narrow- 
bottomed swing plough, five inches and a half 
broad at the heel, with a narrow-winged sock, 
drawn by one horse; begin in the furrow, as if you 
intended to gather two ridges together, which will 
make a rib exactly in the middle of the furrow; 
then turn back up the same fuiTow you came 
down, keeping close to the rib made; pursue the 
same mode on the other side, and take a little of 
the soil, which is thrown over by the mould- 
board from the back of each rib, and so on till you 
come near the furrow, when you must pursue the 
same mode as at first. In water furrowing you 



HUSBANDRY. 



82" 



will then have a rib on each side of the furrow, dis- 
tance between the rib, ten or twelve inches. The 
seed to be sown by the hand; and, from the nar- 
rowness or sharpness of the top of the ridges, the 
grain will fall regularly down; then put on a light 
li;iiTow to cover the seed. In wet soils, the ridges 
OM vht to be twice gathered, as ribbingreducesthem. 

li will answer all kinds of crops, but not all 
soils. Strong clayey soils cannot be pulverized 
sufficiently for that purpose; nor can it be effected 
in clover-lea, unless it be twice ploughed, and 
well harrowed. Ribbing is here esteemed pre- 
ferable to drilling;, as you have the same opportu- 
nity of keeping the land clean, and the grain does 
not fall so close together, as by drilling. 

The farmer may hand or horse-hoe his crops, 
and also hoe in his clover-seed: which is consider- 
ed very advantageous. It is more productive of 
grain, especially when it is apt to lodge; and, in ail 
cases, as much straw; and ribbing is often the 
means of preventing the corn lodging. 

In a wet season, ribbing is more favourable to 
harvesting; because the space between the ribs 
admits the air freely, and the corn dries much 
sooner. The reapers, also, when accustomed to 
it, cut more, and take it up cleaner. 

Improved method of drillit'g xuheat. 

The drill contains three coulters, placed in a 
triangular »orm, and worked by brushes, with cast- 
iron nuts, sufficient for one horse to draw, and one 
man to attend to. It will drill three acres per day 
of wheat, barley, or oats, at five inches asunder; 
and five acres per day of beans, peas, &c. at twelve 
inches asunder. The general practice is to drill 
crossways, and to set the rows five or six inches, 
and never exceeding seven inches apart, it being 
found that, if the distance is greater, they are too 
long filling up in the spring; that they afford a 
greater breadth for the growth of weeds; are more 
expensive to hoe, and more liable to be laid in the 
summer. In drilling wheat, never harrow after 
the drill, if it can be avoided; the drill generally 
leaving the corn sufficiently covered; and by this 
plan, the vegetation is quickened, and the ridges 
of soils, h^tween each row, preserve the plants in 
winter, and render the operation of harrowing in 
the spring much more efficacious. The spring 
harrowing is performed the contraiy way to that 
of the drilling, as the harrow working upon the 
ridges does not pull up the plants, and leaves the 
ground mouldy for >he hoe. This point should be 
particularly attended to. The harrowing after the 
drill, evidently leavjjs the ground in a better state 
to the eye; but the advantages in the produce of the 
crop are decidedly in favour of the plan of leaving 
the land in the rough state already described; as 
the operation of the winter upon the clods causes 
them to pulverize, and furnishes an abundant nu- 
trition to the plants in the spring; and followed by 
the hoe, about the time the head or ear is forming, 
it makes the growth of the plant more vigorous, 
and greatly improves the size of the head or ear. 
The drillinn; for wheat should generally commence 
aboat the laiter end of September; at which time 
the farmer may drill about two bushels per acre. 
As the season advances, kt ep increasing the quan- 
tity to three bushels per acre, being guided by the 
quality of the soil and other circumstances. A 
great loss has frequently arisen, through drilling 
too small a quantity of seed, as there can be none 
spared in that case for the rooks and grubs; and a 
thick well planted crop will always yield more 
abundantly than a thin-stooling crop, and ripen 
sooner. 

The drill system would have been in more rjene- 
i-al practice, if its friends had also recommended 
the use of a larger quantity of seed to the acre, 



and the rows to b^ planted nearer together. It is 
impossible to obtain so great a produce per acre 
by the broad-cast system, as by the drill system at 
the same expense, be the land ever so free from 
weeds. Fifty bushels per acre may be raised by 
the drill, but never more than 40 bushels by sow- 
ing broad-cast. The wheat crops should generally 
be lop-dressed in winter with manure compost, or 
some other dressing in frost, or when you can cart 
upon the land; but if that operation is rendered 
impracticable, sooting in March, or any other 
dressing of that description, hoed in at the spring, 
is preferable to a dressing laid on in the autumn, 
and ploughed in. 

The advantages of the drill over the broad-cast 
system are numerous and decisive; as it enables 
the farmer to grow corn without weeds; is sooner 
ready for stacking after the scythe or sickle; pro- 
duces a cleaner and more regular sample for the 
market; and of consequence obtains a better price; 
leaves the land in a belter state for a succeeding 
crop, and materially increases the quantity of food 
for human consumption. 

To pickle the seed. 

This process is indispensablj'- necessary on every 
soil; otherwise smut, to a greater or less extent, 
will in nine cases out of ten assure<lly follow. 
Stale urine may be considered as the safest and 
surest pickle; and where it can be obtained in a 
sufficient quantity, is commonly resorted to. The 
mode of using it does not, however, seem to be 
agreed upon; for while one party contends that the 
grain ought to be steeped in Mie mine, another 
party considers it sufficient to sprinkle the urine 
upon it. But whatever difference of opinion there 
may be as to the kind of pickle that ought to be 
used, and the mode of using it, all admit the utility 
of mixing the wetted seed with hot lime fresh 
slaked; and this, in one point of view, is absolutely 
necessary, so that the seed may be equally dis- 
tribute;'. It may be remarked, thai experience 
justifies the utility of .all these modes, provided 
they are attentively carried into execution. There 
is some danger from the first; for, if the seed steep- 
ed in urine is not immediately sown, it will infal- 
libly lose its vegetative power. The second, viz. 
sprinkling the urine on the seed, seems to be the 
safest, if performed by an attentive hand; whilst 
the last may do equally well, if such a quantity of 
salt be incorporated with the water, as to render 
it of sufficient strength. It may also be remarked, 
that this last mode is often accompanied with smut, 
owing no doubt to a deficiency of strength in ihe 
pickle; whereas a single head with smut is rarely 
discovered wlieu urine lias been used. 
To cultivate Indian corn. 

The land should be a loamy sand, very rich. In 
the beginning of April, the grains should he set 
like hops, at two feet distance, six or eight grains 
in a hill, each grain about an inch deep in the 
ground. The seed from New England is the best. 
In the beginning of May, the alleys should be 
hoed, and the hills weeded and earthed up higher. 
At the latter end of that month all the superfluous 
stalks should be taken away, and only three stems 
of corn left in each hill. By the middle of June 
it will cover the a'ley. li grows much like bul- 
rushes, the lower leaves being like broad fi-gs, 
three or fOur inches wide, and as many feel in 
length; the stems shooting upwards, from seven to 
ten fee'i. in height, with many joints casting off flag- 
leaves at every joint. Under these leaves, and 
close to the stem, grows the corn, covered over by 
many coats of sedgy leaves, and so closed in by 
them to the stem, that it does not show itself easi- 
ly, till there bursts out at the end of the ear a num- 
ber of strings that look like tufts of horse-hair, at 



328 



UNIVERSA.L RECEIPT BOOK 



first of a beautiful green, and afterwards red or 
yellow, the stem ending in a flower. The corn 
will ripen in September; but the sun at that season 
not having strength enough to dry it, it must be 
laid upon racks, or thin open floors, in dry rooms, 
and frequently turned, to avoid moulding; the 
grains are about as big as peas, and adhere in re- 
,^ular rows round a white pithy substance, which 
torms the ear. An ear contains from two to four 
hundred grains, and is from six to ten inches in 
length. I They are of various colours, blue, red, 
white, and yellow. The manner of gathering them 
is by cutting down the stems and breaking off the 
ears. The stems are as big as a man's wrist, and 
look like bamboo cane: the pith is full of a juice 
that tastes as sweet as sugar; and the joints are 
about a foot and a half distant. The increase is 
upwards of five hundred fold. Upon a large scale, 
the seed may be drilled in alleys like peas; and, 
to save digging, the ground may be ploughed and 
harrowed, which will answer very well. It will 
grow upon all kinds of land. The ears which 
grow upon dry sandy land are less, but harder and 
riper. The grain is taken from the husk by hand, 
and when ground upon French stones, makes an 
excellent flour, of which it yields much more, 
with much less bran, than wheat does, and exceeds 
it in crust, pancakes, puddings, and all other uses 
except bread; but a sweetness peculiar to it, which 
in all other cases makes it agreeable, is here nau- 
seous. It is excellent for feeding poultry and hogs, 
and fattens both much better and sooner than peas 
or barley. The stems make better hedges for 
kitchen garden than reeds do. It clears the ground 
from weeds, and makes a good season for any other 
kind of corn. Piso, and other Spanish physicians, 
are full of the medicinal virtues of this grain. It 
was the only bread-corn known in America when 
first discovered by the Spaniards, and is there call- 
ed maize. 

Diseases of ivheat. 
Wheat is subject to more diseases than other 
grains, and, in some seasons, especially in wet 
ones, heavier losses ure sustained from those dis- 
eases, than are felt in the culture of any other cul- 
raiferous crop with which we are acquainted. 
Wheat may suffer from the attack of insects at the 
root; from blight, which, primarily, affects the 
leaf 01 straw, and ultimately deprives the grain of 
sufficient nourishment; from mildew on the ear, 
which operates thereon with the force of an apo- 
plectic stroke; and from gum of different shades, 
which lodges on the chaft" or cups in which the 
grain is deposited. 

Blight originates from moist or foggy weather, 
and from hoa^-frost, the effects cf which, when ex- 
pelled by a hot sun, are first discernible on the 
straw, and afterwards on the ear, in a greater or 
less degree, according to local circumstances. Let 
a field be examined in a day or two after such wea- 
ther, and a careful observer will soon be satisfied, 
that the fibres and leaves of plants are contracted 
and enfeebled, in consequence of what may be call- 
ed a stoppage of perspiration. This disorder may 
take place either earlier or later, but is most fatal 
wlien it appears at the time the grain is forming 
iri the ear. It may appear at an earlier stage; and 
though the productive powers of the plant will there- 
by be lessened, yet, if circumstances are afterwards 
favourable, thequalityofthegrainproducedmay not 
be much impaired; or it may appear after the grain 
is fully formed, and then very little damage will be 
sustained, except by the straw. 
Milderu. 

Mildew may be ranked as a disease which af- 
fects the ear, and is brought on by cause* some- 



what similar to those which occasion blight, though 
at a more advanced period of the season. If this 
disorder comes on immediately after the first 
appearance of the ear, the straw' will also be af- 
fected; but if the grain is nearly or fully formed, 
then injury on the straw is not much discernible. 
We have seen a crop which canied wheat that was 
mildewed, where the straw was perfectly fresh, 
though, indeed, this rarely happens. A' severe 
mildew, however, effectually prevents both corn 
and straw from making any further progress, the 
whole plant apparently going backward every day- 
till existence in a manner ceases altogether. Some- 
thing akin to mildew is the gum or red oaker, 
which, in all warm moist seasons, attaches itself 
to the ear and often occasions considerable dam- 
age. All these different disorders are generally 
a'^ompanied by insects; which animalculse, bymany 
people who take the effect for the cause, are con- 
sidered, though without the least foundation, as 
the authors of the mischief that follows. Their 
appearance, however, may justly be attributed to 
the diseased state of the plant; for wherever putre- 
faction takes place, either in animal or vegetable 
substances, the presence of these insects will never 
be wanting. 

Rust. 
Another disorder which effects wheat, and by 
several people denomi nated the real rust, is brought 
on by excessive heats, which occasion the plants 
to suffer from a privation of nourishment, and be- 
come sickly and feeble. In this atrophical state, 
a kind of dust gathers on the stalk and leaves, 
which increases with the disease, till the plant is 
in a great measure worn out and exhausted. The 
only remedy in this case, and it is one that cannot 
easily be administered by the hand of man, is a 
plentiful supply of moisture, by which, if it is re- 
ceived before consumption is too far advanced, the 
crop is benefited in a degree proportional to the 
extent of nourishment received, and the stage at 
which the disease has arrived. 

Impropriety ofso-aing rrdldexued -wheat. 
Some people have recommended the sowing of 
blighted and mildewed wheat, because ;t will ve- 
getate; though certainly the recommendation, if 
carried into practice, would be attended -vith immi- 
nent danger to those who attempted it. That light 
or defective wheat will vegetate and produce a 
plant, we are not disposed to contradict; but that 
it will vegetate as briskly, or put out a stem of equal 
strength, and capable of withstanding the severe 
winter blasts, as those produced from sound seed, 
we must be excused for not believing. Let it only 
be considered, that a plant of young wheat, unless 
when very early sown, lives three or four months, 
in a great measure, upon the nourishment which it 
derives from the parent seed; and that such nour- 
ishment can, in no view of the subject, be so gre.it 
when the parent is lean and emaciated, as when 
sound, healthy and vigorous. Let it also be re- 
membered, that a plant produced from the best 
and weightiest seed, must, in every case, under a 
party of other circumstances, have a stronger con- 
stitution at the outset, which necessarily qualifies 
it to push on with greater energy when the season 
of growth arrives. Indeed, the economy of nature 
would be over-turned, had any other result follow- 
ed. A breeder of cattle or sheep would not act 
mo' c foolishly, who trusted that a deformed dimi- 
nutive bull or ram would produce him good stock, 
than the corn farmer does who uses uasoand or im- 
perfect seed. 

To remove the mUdew on -wheat. 
A solution of common salt in water, in the pro- 
portion of a pound to a gallon, is an excellent re- 
medy for the mildew on corn. After sprinkling 



HUSBANDRY. 



329 



three or four days, the mildew will disappear, 
•caving only a discoloration on the straw where it 
*-as destroyed. The best and most expeditious 
way of applying the mixture is with a flat brusli, 
such as is used by white washers. The operator 
naviug a pail of the mixture in one hand, with the 
other he dips the brush into it, and makes his re- 
gular casts as when sowing corn broad-cast; in this 
way he will i-eadily get over ten acres in the day, 
and with an assistant a great deal mors. About 
two hogsheads of the mixture will suffice for an 
acre. Wherever the mixture touches, the mildew 
immediately dies. 

To prevent mildew in -wheat. 

Dissolve 3 oz. and 2 drachmsof sulphate of cop- 
per, copperas, or blue vitriol, in 3 gallons and 3 
quarts, wine measure, of cold water, for every three 
bushels of grain that is to be prepared. Into ano- 
ther vessel capable of containing from 53 to 79 
wine gallons, throw from 3 to 4 Winchester bush- 
els of wheat, into which the prepared liquid is 
poured, until it rises 5 or 6 inches above the corn. 
Stir it thoroughly; and carefully remove all that 
swims on the surface. After it has remained half 
an hour in the preparation, throw the wheat into a 
basket that will allow the water to escape, but not 
the grain. It ought then to be immediately wash- 
ed in rain, or pure water, which will prevent any 
risk of its injuring the germ, and afterwards the 
seed ouglit to be dried before it is sown. It may 
be preserved in this shape for months. 
To prevent the smut in -wheat. 

Liming the seed by immersion is recommended 
by a French writer, as the only preventive war- 
ranted by science and sanctioned by experience, 
and the following is given as the method in which 
the process is best performed: 

To destroy the germs of the blight in 4^ bushels 
or 256 lbs. of corn, about 6 or 7 gallons of water 
must be used, as grain may be more or less dry, 
and from 35 to 43 ounces avoirdupois of quick 
lime, according as it may be more or less caustic, 
and according as the seed may have more or less 
of the blight. Boil part of the water, black the 
lime with it, and then add the rest. When joined, 
the heat of the water should be such,' that the hand 
can with difficulty bear it. Pour the lime water 
upon the corn placed in a tub, stirring itiiicessant- 
ly, first with a stick, and afterwards with a sho- 
vel. The liquid should, at first, cover the wheat, 
three or four fingers' breadth; it will soon be ab- 
sorbed by the gi-ain. In this state let it remain co- 
vered over for 24 hours, but turn it over 5 or 6 
times during the day. Such parts of the liquor as 
will drain ofF, may then be separated, when tlie 
corn, after standing a few hours, in order that it 
may run freely out of the hand, may be sown. If 
not intended to be used immediately, the limed 
wheat should be put in a heap, and moved once or 
twice a day till dry. Experience has proved that 
limed grain germinates sooner than unlimed; and, 
as it carries with it moisture sufficient to develop 
the embryo, the seed will not suffer for want ot 
rain; insects will not attack it, the acrid taste of 
the lime being offensive to them; and, as every 
grain germinates, a less quantity is requisite. In 
fact, the grain being swelled, the sower filling his 
hand as usual, will, when he has sown 65 handsful 
of limed corn, have, in reality, only usee! 52. As 
blighted grains preserve, for a long time, the power 
of germinating, the careful farmer, whose grain 
has been touched, should carefully sweep out the 
crevices in the walls, and cracks in the floors of 
'lis barn, and take great pains to clean them tho- 
roughly. 

I Another method. 

tA tub is used that has a hole at bottom, for a 
2 R 



spigot and faucet, fixed in a wisp of straw, to pre- 
vent any small pieces of lime passing (as in brew 
ing). To 70 gallons of water, add a corn bushel 
of unslaked lime, stir it well till the whole is mix- 
ed, let it stand 30 hours, run it off" into another tub 
as clear as possible (as practised in beer); add 42 
pounds of salt, which, with stirring, will scon dis- 
solve; this is a proper pickle for brining and liming 
seed-wheat without any obstacle, and greatly faci- 
litates the drilling. 

Steep the wheat in a broad-bottomed basket, 24 
inches diameter, and twenty inches deep, running 
in the grain gradually in small quantities, from 10 
to 12 gallons; stirring the same. What floats, skim 
off, and do not sow; then draw up the basket, to 
drain the pickle, for a few minutes; this may be 
performed in half an hour, and when sufficiently 
pickled, proceed as before. The wheat will be 
fit for sowing in 24 hours, if required; but for 
drilling, two hours pickled will be best; and pre- 
pared four or five days before. 
Mr Henderson's method of preventing- smut m 
-wheat. 

Take of best soft green soap, made from fish-oil, 
1 pound, and of scalding water, 4 gallons. Put the 
soap into a glazed vessel with a small portion of 
the water; continue stirring it, and add the water 
as it dissolves, till the whole is a perfect ley. It 
should be used about 90 deg. of Fahrenheit's ther- 
mometer, or new-milk warm. Put the wheat into 
a tub, and pour on it a quantity of the liquor suffi 
cient to cover it completely, and throw a blanket 
over it to preserve the heat. Stir it every ten 
minutes, and take off the scum. When it has 
remained in this manner for an hour, drain the 
liquor from the wheat through a sieve, or let the 
tub be furnished v/ith a drain bottom like a brew- 
ing vat. Let the liquor which was drawn oft' stand 
a few minutes to subside, and then pour it off the 
sediment. 'Repeat the operation till the whole 
quantity is steeped, only observe to add, each 
time, as much hot ley as was observed by the for- 
mer steeping. Dry the wheat with quick lime, 
and sow as soon as convenient. It will keep ten 
days after steeping; but should be spread thin on 
a tlry floor. 

Three pounds of soap, and 12 gallons of water, 
will steep half a ball of wheat. If a tub with a 
drain-bottom is used, such as a hogshead, with a 
spigot to draw off the ley, 4 ounces of soap, and 1 
gallon of water scalding hot, will preserve a stock 
of warm ley sufficient for any quantity of wheat; 
and, allowing 5 minutes for draining, five balls may 
be done in 11 hours. The operation should be 
performed in a clean place, at a distance frona 
barns and granaries, the roofs of which may be 
observed hanging full of smut. The refuse of 
smutted wheat should be buried deep in the earth, 
and not thrown to the dung-hill, from which it 
would be conveyed to the field. 
Advantages of reaping com before being perfectly 
ripe. 

M. Cadet de Vaux has lately recommended, as 
an important and useful innovation, the reaping of 
corn before it is perfectly ripe. This practice 
originated with M. Salles, of the Agricultural So- 
ciety of Beziers: grain thus reaped (say eiglit days 
before it is ripe) is fuller, larger, and finer, and is 
never attacked by the weevil. This was proved by 
reaping one half of a piece of corn-field, as recom- 
mended, and leaving the other till the usual time. 
The early reaped portion gave a hectclitre (about 3 
bushels) of corn more for an acre of land, than the 
later-reaped. An equal quantity of flour from 
each was made into bread; that made from the 
corn reaped green gave seven pounds of bread 
more than the other, in two bushels. The weevil 

2 C 2 



33C 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



attacked the ripe corn but not the gi-een. The 
proper time for reaping is when the grain, pressed 
between the fingers, has a doughy appearance, 
like bread just hot from the oven, when pressed in 
the same way. 

'I'o manage the loheat harvest. 

It is advantageous to cut wheat before it is fully 
ripe^ but, in ascertaining the proper state, it is ne- 
cessary to discriminate between the ripeness of the 
straw and the ripeness of the grain; for, in some 
seasons, the straw dies upwards, under which cir- 
cumstai?'",e, a field, to the eye, may appear to be 
completely fit for the sickle, when, in reality, the 
grain is imperfectly consolidated, and perhaps not 
much removed from a milky state. I'hough it is 
obvious that under such circumstances, no further 
benefit can be conveyed from the root, and that nou- 
rishment is withlield the moment that the roots die: 
yet it does not follow that grain so circumstanced 
should be immediately cut; because, after that ope- 
ration is performed, it is in a great measure neces- 
sarily deprived of every benefit from the sun and 
air, both of which have greater influence in bringing 
it to maturity, so long as it remains on foot, than 
when cut down,whether laid on the ground or bound 
up in sheaves. The state of weather at the time 
also deserves notice; for, as in moist, or even va- 
riable weather, every kind of grain, when cut pre- 
maturely, is more exposed to damage than when 
completely ripened. AH these things will be stu- 
died by the skilful husbandman, who will also 
take into consideration the dangers which may fol- 
low, were he to permit his wheat crop to remain 
uncut till completely ripened. The danger from 
wind will not be lost sight of, especially if the 
season of the equinox approaches; even the quan- 
tity dropped in the field, and in the stack-yard, 
when wheat is over ripe, is an object of considera- 
tion. Taking all these things into view, it seems 
prudent to have wheat cut before it is fully ripe, 
as less damage will be sustained from acting in 
this way than by adopting a contrary practice. 

If the weather be dry, and the straw clean, wheat 
may be carted to the stack-yard in a few days; 
indeed, if quite ripe, it may be stacked immedi- 
ately from the sickle, especially when not meant 
for early threshing. So long, however, as any 
moisture remains in the straw, the field will be 
found to be the best stack-yard; and wliere grass 
or weeds of any kind are mixed with the crop, 
patience must be exerted till they are decayed and 
dried, lest heating be occasioned. 
Barley. 

Next to wheat, the most valuable grain is bar- 
ley, especially on light and sharp soils. 

It is a tender grain, and easily hurt in any of the 
stages of its growth, particularly at seed time: a 
heavy shower of rain will then almost ruin a crop 
on the best prepared land; and in all the after pro- 
cesses, greater pains and attention are required to 
insure success, than in the case of other grains. 
The harvest process is difficult, and often attended 
with danger; even the thrashing of it is not easily 
executed with machines, because the awn generally 
adheres to the grain, and renders separation from 
the straw a troublesome task. Barley, in fact, is 
raised at greater expense than wheat, and generally 
speaking, is a more hazardous crop. Except upon 
rich and genial soils, where climate will allow 
wheat to be perfectly reared, it ought not to be 
cultivated. 

Varieties of barley. 

Barley may be divided into two sorts, early and 
late; to which may be added a bastard variety, 
called bear or bigg, which aftbrds similar nutri- 
ment or substance, though of inferior quality. 
Early barley, under various names, was for- 



merly sown, in Britain, upon lands that had been 
previously summer fallowed, or were in high con- 
dition; but this mode of culture being in a great 
measure renounced, the common sort, which ad- 
mits of being sown either early or late, is now 
generally used. 

The most proper seed season is any time in 
April, though we have seen good crops produced, 
the seed of which was sown at a much later period. 
To prepare the ground. 

Barley is chiefly taken after turnips, sometimes 
after peas and beans, but rarely, by good farmers, 
either after wheal or oats, unless under special cir- 
cumstances. When sown after turnips, it is gene- 
rally taken with one furrow, which is given as fast 
as the turnips are consumed, the ground thus re- 
ceiving much benefit from the spring frosts. But 
often two or more furrows are necessary for the 
fields last consumed; because, when a spring 
drought sets in, the surface from being poached by 
the removal or consumption of the crop, gets sa 
hardened as to render a greater quantity of plough- 
ing, harrowing, and rolling necessary, than would 
otherwise be called for. When sown after beans 
and peas, one winter and one spring ploughing 
are usually bestowed: but, when atter wheat op 
oats, three ploughings are necessary, so that the 
ground may be put in proper condition. These 
operations are very ticklish in a wet and backward 
season, and rarely in that case is the grower paid 
for the expense of his labour. Where land is in 
such a situation as to require three ploughings, 
before it can be seeded with barley, it is belter to 
summer fallow it at once, than to run the risks 
which seldom fail to accompany a quantity of 
spring labour. If the weather be dry, moisture is 
lost during the different processes, and an imper- 
fect braird necessarily follows: if it be wet, the be- 
nefit of ploughing is lost, and all the evils of a wet 
seed time are sustained by the future crop. 
Quantity of seed. 

The quantity sown is different in difi^erent cases, 
according to the quality of the soil and other cir- 
cumstances. Upon very rich lands, eight pecks 
per acre are sometimes sown; twelve is very com- 
mon; and, upon poor land, more is sometimes 
given. 

By go»d judges a quantity of seed is sown suflS- 
cient to insure a full crop, without depending on 
its sending out offsets; indeed, where that is done, 
few offsets are produced, the crop grows and ripens 
equally, and the grain is uniformly good. 
M' Jd' Cartney's invention for hummelu?ig barley. 

This invention isexli-emeiy simple, and the cost 
only 3s. It is a bit of notched stick or bar, lined 
on one side with a thin plate of iron, and just the 
length of the rollers, fixed by a screw-bolt at each 
end to the inside of the cover of the drum, about 
the middle of it, so as the edge of the said notched 
stick is about one-eighth of an inch from the arms' 
of the drum as it goes round. Two minutes are 
sufficient to put it on, when its operation is wanted; 
which is when putting through the bear the second 
time; and it is easily taken off. It rubs off the 
awns or spikes to admiration; and by putting the 
grain another time through the mill, it will rub 
the husk off the ends of the pickle so entirely, 
that it is unnecessary to sow it afterwards. 
To harvest barley. 

More care is required in the harvesting of bar^ 
ley, than any of the other white crops, even in the 
best of seasons; and in bad years it is often found 
very difficult to save it. Owing to the brittleness 
of the straw, after it has reached a certain period, 
it must be cut down; as, when it is suffered to stand 
longer, much loss is sustained by the breaking of 
the heads. On that account, it is cut at a time 



HUSBANDRY. 



331 



when the grain is soft, and the straw retains a great 
proportion of its natural juices, consequently re- 
quires a long time in the field, before either the 
grain is hardened, or the straw sufficiently dry. 
When put into the stack sooner, it is apt to heat, 
and much loss is frequently sustained. It is a 
custom with many farmers to have an opening in 
the middle of their barley stacks, from top to bot- 
tom. This opening is generally made by placing 
a large bundle of straw in the centre of the stack, 
when the building commences, and, in proportion 
as it rises, the straw is drawn upwards, leaving a 
hollow behind; which, if one or two openings are 
left in the side of the stacK near the bottom, in- 
sures so complete a circulation of air as not only 
to prevent heating, but to preserve the grain from 
becoming musty. 

Varieties of oats. 
Of this grain the varieties are more numerous 
than of any other of the culmiferous tribe. These 
varieties consist of what is called the common oat; 
the Angus oat, which is considered as an improved 
variety of the other; the Poland oat; the Friesland 
oat; the red oat; the dun oat; the Tartar, or Sibe- 
rian oat; and the potatoe oat. The Poland and 
potatoe varieties are best adapted to rich soils; the 
red oat for late climates; and the other varieties 
for the generality of soils, of which the British 
isles are composed. The Tartar, or Siberian 
kind, though very hardy and prolific, is much out 
of use, being of a coarse substance, and unproduc- 
tive of meal. The dun oat has never been much 
cultivated, and the use of Poland's and Friesland's 
is now much cirbumscribed, since potatoe oats 
were introduced, the latter being considered, by 
the most discerning agi'ieulturists, as of superior 
value, in every respect, where the soil is rich and 
properly cultivated. 

To prepare the ground. 
Oats are chiefly sown after grass; sometimes 
upon land not rich enough for wheat, that had been 
previously summer fallowed, or had carried tur- 
nips; often after barley, and rarely after wheat, 
unless cross-cropping, from particular circumstan- 
ces, becomes a necessary evil. One ploughing is 
generally given to the gi-ass lands, usually in the 
month of January, so that the benefit of frost may 
be gained, and the land sufficiently mello\ved for 
receiving the harrow. In some cases a spring fur- 
row is given, when oats succeed wlieat or barley, 
especially when grass seeds are to accompany the 
crop. The best oats, both in quantity and quality, 
are always those which succeed grass; indeed, no 
kind of grain seems better qualified by nature for 
foraging upon grass land than oats; as a full crop 
is usually obtained in the first instance, and the 
land left in good order for succeeding ones. 
Quantity of seed. 
From twelve to eighteen pecks of seed is gene- 
rally allowed to the Scottish acre of ground, ac- 
cording to the richness of the soil, and the variety 
that is cultivated. Here it may be remarked, that 
land, sown with potatoe oats, requires much less 
seed, in point of measure, than when any of the 
other sorts are used; because potatoe oats both til- 
ler well, much better than Poland ones, and have 
not an awn or tail, like the ordinary varieties. On 
that account, a measure contains many more seeds 
of them than of any other kind. If land is equally 
well cultivated, there is little doubt but that the 
like quantity of seed given when barley is culti- 
vated, may be safely trusted to when potatoe oats 
are to be raised. 

To harvest oats. 
Oats are a hardy grain, and rarely get much 
damage when under the harvest process, except 
from high winds or from shedding, when opened 



out after being thoronghly wetted. The early 
varieties are much more liable to these losses than 
the late ones, because the grain parts move easily 
from the straw, an evil to which the best of grain 
is at all times subject. Early oats, however, may 
I be cut a little quick, which, to a certain extent, 
lessens the danger to which they are exposed from 
high winds; and if the sheaves be made small, the 
danger from shedding after rains is considerably 
lessened, because they are thus sooner ready for 
the stack. Under every management, however, a 
greater quantity of early oats will be lost during 
the harvest process than of late ones; because the 
latter adhere firmly to the straw, and consequently 
do not drop so easily as the former. 
7 b cultivate rye. 

Rye ought never to be sown upon wet soils, nor 
even upon sandy soils where the sub-soil is of a 
retentive nature. Upon downs, links, and all soft 
lands, which have received manure, this grain 
thrives in perfection, and, if once covered in, will 
stand a drought afterwards, that would consume 
any of the culmiferous tribe. The sevferal pro- 
cesses may be regarded as nearly the same with 
those recommended for wheat, with the single ex- 
ception of pickling, which rye does not require. 
Rye may be sown either in winter or spring, 
though the winter-seeded fields are _p-"nerally 
bulkiest and most productive. It may succeed 
either summer fallow, clover or turnips; even after 
oats, good crops have been raised, and where such 
crops are raised, the land will always be found in 
good condition. 

To cidtivate heans. 

Beans naturally succeed a culmiferous crop; and 
we believe it is not of much importance which of 
the varieties are followed, provided the ground is 
in decent order, and not worn out by the previous 
crop. The furrow ought to be given early in win- 
ter, and as deep as possible, that the earth may be 
sufficiently loosened, and room affijrded for the 
roots of the plant to search for the requisite nour- 
ishment. The first furrow is usually given across 
the field, which is the best method when only one 
spring furrow is intended; but as it is now ascer 
tained, that two spring furrows are highly advan- 
tageous, the one in winter ought to be given in 
length, which lays the ground in a belter situation 
for resisting the rains, and renders it sooner dry in 
spring, than can be the case when ploughed acioss. 
On the supposition, that three furrows are to be 
given, one in winter, and two in spring, the fol- 
lowing is the most eligible preparation; 
Approved modes of dnlung: 

The land being ploughed in length as early in 
winter as is practicable, and the gaw and headland 
furrows sufficiently digged out, take the second 
furrow across the first as soon as the ground is dry 
enough in spring to undergo the operation; water- 
furrow it immediately, and dig again the gaw and 
head-land furrows, otherwise the benefit of the 
second furrow may be lost. This being donej 
] leave the field for some days, till it is sufficiently 
dry, when a cast of the harrows becomes necessa- 
ry, so that the surface may be levelled. Then 
enter with the ploughs, and form the drills, which 
are generally made up with an interval of 27 inches. 
In the hollow of this interval, deposit the seed by 
a drill-Uarrow, and reverse or slit out the drills 
to cover the seed, which finishes the process for 
the time. In ten or twelve days afterwards, ac- 
cording to the state of the weather, cross-harrow 
the drills, thereby levelling the field for the hoeing 
process. Water-furrow the whole in a neat man 
ner, and spade and shovel the gaw and the bead- 
land furrows, which concludes the whole process 

This is the most approved way of drilling beans. 



332 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT 1300IL 



Ttie next best is to give only one spring furrow, 
aad to run tlie drill-barrow after every third 
plough, in which "way, the intervals are nearly of 
the same extent as already mentioned. Harrowing 
is afterwards required, before the young plants 
reach the surface, and water-furrowing, &c. as 
above described. 

Dung is often given to beans, especially when 
they succeed wheat which had not received ma- 
nure. The best way is to apply the dung on the 
stubble before the winter furrow is gi^en, which 
greatly facilitates the after process. Used in this 
way, a fore stock must be in hand; but where the 
farmer is not so well provided, spring dunging be- 
comes necessary, though evidently of less advan- 
tage. At that season, it may either be put into the 
drills before the seed is sown, or spread upon the 
surface and ploughed down, according to the na- 
ture of the drilling process which is meant to be 
adopted. Land dunged to beans, if duly hoed, is 
always in high order for carrying a crop of wheat 
in succession. Perhaps better wheat, both in re- 
spect of quantity and quality, may be cultivated in 
this way, than in any other mode of sowing. 
Drilling machines. 
Different machines have been invented for drill- 
ing beans; but the most common and handy is one 
of the jarrow form. This hand drill is pushed 
forward by a man or wroman, and will, according 
as the brush or director is lowered or heightened, 
sow thicker or thinner, as may be expedient and 
necessary. Another machine, drawn by a horse, 
and sowings drills at a time, has been constructed, 
and, upon flat lands, will certainly distribute the 
seed with the most minute exactness. Upon un- 
equal fields, and even on those laid out in high 
ridges, the use of this machine is attended with a 
degree of inconvenience sufficient to balance its 
advantages. The hand-drill, therefore, in all 
probabilit)'', will be I'etained for general use, though 
the other is capable of performing the work with 
minuter regularit)'^. 

Quantity of seed. 
Less than 4 bushels ouglit not to be hazarded, if 
a full crop is expected. We seldom have seen 
thin beans turn out well, unless the soil is particu- 
larly rich: nay, unless the rows close, weeds will 
get away after the cleaning process is finished, 
thereby disappointing the object of drilling, and 
rendering the system of little avail towards keep- 
ing the ground in good condition. 
Hoeing process. 
Beans are cleaned in various ways; 1st. By the 
hand hoe. 2d. By the scraper, or Dutch hoe. 
Sd. By a plough of small dimensions, but con- 
structed upon the principles of the approved swing 
plough. Ploughs with double mould-boards are 
likewise used to earth them up; and, with all good 
managers, the weeds in the drills, which cannot be 
touched by the hoe, are pulled out by the hand, 
otherwise no field can be considered as duly 
cleaned. 

In treating of the cleaning process, we shall 
confine ourselves to the one most suited to the 
generality of bean soils. About ten or twelve days 
after the young plants have appeared above the 
surface, enter with the scraper, and loosen any 
weeds that may have vegetated. At this time, the 
wings, or cutters, of the implement ought to be 
l>arlicularly sharp, so that the scraper may not run 
loo deep, and throw the earth upon the plants. In 
about ten days after the ground is scraped, accord- 
ing to the state of the weather, and other circum- 
stances, use the small swing plough to lay the earth 
away from the sides of the rows; and, in doing so, 
go as near to the plants as possible, taking care, at 
the same time, not to loosen their roots. If any 



vi'eeds stand in the rows, pull them out with the 
hand; afterwards earth-up the plants -with the small 
swing plough, or run the scraper in the intervals, 
as may seem expedient. » 

To manage the harvest. 
Before beans are out, the grain ought to be tol- 
erably well ripened, otherwise the quality is im 
paired, whilst a long time is required to put the 
straw in such a condition as to be preserved in the 
stack. In an early harvest, or where the crop is 
not weighty, it is an easy matter to get beans suffi- 
ciently ripened; but, in a late harvest, and in every 
one where the crop takes on a second growth, it is 
scarcely practicable to get them thoroughly ripen- 
ed for the sickle. Under these circumstances, it 
is unnecessary to let beans stand uncut efter the 
end of September or the first of October; because 
any benefit that can be gained afterwards, is not to 
be compared with the disadvantages that accom- 
pany a late wheat seed time. Beans are usually 
cut with the sickle, and tied in sheaves, either with 
straw ropes, or with ropes made from pease sown 
along with them. It is proper to iet the sheaves 
lie untied several days, so that the winding pro- 
cess may be hastened, and, when tied, to set them 
up on end, in order that full benefit from air may 
be obtained, and the grain kept off the. ground. 
In building bean stacks, it is an useful measure, 
for preserving both grain and straw from injuiy 
to keep an opening in the centre, and to convey 
air from the extremity by a hole, or funnel. Beans, 
on the whjle, are a troublesome crop to the far- 
mer, though of great utility in other respects. 
Without them heavy soils can scarcely be managed 
with advantage, unless summer fallow is resorted 
to once in four years; but, by the aid derived from 
drilled beans, summer fallow may be avoided for 
eight years, whilst the ground, at that period, will 
be found in equal, if not superior condition. 
To cultivate peas. 
Peas are partially sown with beans to great ad- 
vantage ; and, when cultivated in this way, the 
same system of preparation, &c. described under 
the head of beans, is to be adopted. Indeed, upon 
many soils not deep enough for beans, a mixture 
of peas to the extent of one-third of the seed sown 
proves highly advantageous. Tlie beans serve as 
stabs or props to the peas, and the latter, being 
thus kept off the ground, and furnished with air 
and other atmospherical nutriment, blossom and 
pod with much greater effect than when sown ac- 
cording to the broad-cast system. 

Peas agree well with lime and other calcareous 
stimulants, and can hardly be reaped in perfection 
where these are wanting. The varieties cultivated 
are numerous; but those adapted to field culture 
may be divided into two kinds, namely, early and 
late, though these branch out again into several 
varieties. We have white peas both early and late, 
and likewise grey peas, possessed of similar pro- 
perties. The nomenclature is entirely arbitrary, 
and therefore not to be illustrated. As a general 
rule, the best seed time for late peas is either in 
February or March, though early ones, such as the 
Hastings, or Magpiehill pea, may be sown success- 
fully after the Isi; of May. •« 
Peas ought to be sown tolerably thick so thst' 
the ground may be covered as early as possible. ' ' 
To cultivate tares. 
The tare is a plant of a hardy growth, and when 
sown upon rich land will return a large supply of 
green fodder, for the consumption of horses, or 
for fattening cattle. When intended for this use, 
the seed ought to be sown tolerably thick, perhaps 
to the extent of four bushels per Scots acre, 
though, when intended to stand for seed, a less 
quantity is required; because otherwise the thick- 



HUSBANDRY. 



333 



oess of the cvoy will prevent the plants from blos- 
soming and podding in a sufiic'ent way. When 
meant for seed, early sowing ought to be studied, 
otherwise .he return will be imperfect; but when 
for green food, any time betwixt the first of April 
and the latter end of May will answer well, pro- 
vided crops in succession from the first to the last 
mentioned period be regularly cultivated. In- 
stances are not wanting of a full crop being ob- 
tained even when the seed was sown so late as the 
middle of June, though sowing so late is a practice 
not to be recommended. After the seed is sown, 
and the land carefully harrowed, a light roller 
ought to be drawn across, so that the surface may 
be, smoothed, and the scythe permitted to work 
without interruption. It is proper also to guard 
the field for several days against the depredations 
of pigeons, who are remarkabl)' fond of tares, and 
will pick up 1 great part of the seed, unless con- 
stantly watched. 

Horses thrive very well upon tares, even better 
than they do upon clover and rye grass; end the 
same remark is applicable to fattening cattle, who 
feed faster upon this article of green fodder than 
upon any kind of grass, or esculent, with whicii 
we are acquainted. Danger often arises from their 
eating too many, especially when podded; as oolicsj 
and other stomach disorders, are apt to be pro- 
duced by the excessive loads which they devour. 
Potatoes. 

Potatoes, as an article of human food, are, next 
to wheat, of the greatest importance in the eye of 
a political economist. From no other crop that 
can be cultivated will the public derive so much 
food as from this valuable esculent; and it admits 
of demonstration, that an acre of potatoes will 
feed double the number of people that can be fed 
from an acre of wheat. Potatoes are also a nour- 
ishing and healthy food, relished almost by every 
palate; and without them it is believed there is 
hardly a dinner served up for six months of the 
year in any part of the kingdom. 

3'o prepare the ground. 

To work the ground till it is completely reduced 
and free from root weeds, may be considered as a 
desideratum inpotatoe husbandry; though in many 
seasons these operations cannot be perfectly exe- 
cuted, without losing the proper time for planting, 
which never ought to be beyond the first of May, 
if circumstances do not absolutely interdict it. 
Three ploughings, with frequent harrowings and 
rollings, are necessaiy in most cases, before the 
land is in suitable condition. When this is accom- 
plished, form the drills as if they were for turnips; 
cart the manure, .which ought not to be sparingly 
applied, plant the seed above the manure, reverse 
the drills for covering it and the seed, then harrow 
the drills in length, which completes the prepara- 
tion and seed process. 

Quantity of seed. 

It is not advantageous to cut the seed into small 
slips; for the strength of the stem at the outset de- 
pends in direct proportion upon the vigour and 
power of the seed-plant. The seed-plant, there- 
fore, ought to be large, rarely smaller than the 
fourth part of the polatoe; and if the seed is of 
small size, one half of the potatoe may be profita- 
bly used. At all events, rather trr in giving over 
large seed than in making it too small; because, by 
the first error, no great loss can ever be sustained; 
whereas, by the other, a feeble and late crop may 
be the consequence. When the seed is properly 
cut, it requii-es from 10 to 12 hundred weight of 
potatoes to plant an acre of ground, where the rows 
are at 2r incnes distance; but this quantity depends 
greatly upon the size of the potatoes used; if they 
•ire large, a greater weight may be required, but 



the extra quantity will be abundantly repaid by 
the superiority of crop which large seed usually 
produces. 

Advantageous method of raising them. 

The earth should be dug twelve inches deep, it 
the soil will allow it; after this, a hole should be 
opened about six inches deep, and horse-dung, or 
long litter, should be put therein, about three inch- 
es thick; this hole should not be more than twelve 
inches diameter. Upon this dung or litter a pota- 
toe should be planted whole, upon which a little 
more dung should be shaken, and then the earth 
should be put thereon. In like manner the whole 
plot of ground must be planted, taking care that the 
potatoes be at least sixteen inches apart. When 
the young shoots make their appearance, they 
should have fresh mould drawn round them with 
a hoe; and if the tender shoots are covered, it will 
prevent the frost from injuring them; they should 
again be earthed when the shoots make a second 
appearance, but not covered, as in alt probability 
the season will be less severe. 

A plentiful supply of mould should be given 
them, and the person who performs this business 
should never tread upon the plant, or the hillock 
that is raised round it, as the lighter the earth is, 
the more room the potatoe will have to expand. 

A gentleman obtained from a single root, thus 
planted, very nearly forty pounds weight of large 
potatoes; and from almost every other root upon the 
same plot of ground, from fifteen to twenty pounds 
weight; and, except the soil be stony or gravelly, 
ten pounds, or half a peck, of potatoes, may gene- 
rally be obtained from each root, by pursuing the 
foregoing method. 

But note — cuttings, or small sets will not do for 
this purpose. 

Mode of taking up and storing the ci^op. 

Potatoes are generally dug up with a three- 
prong grape, or fork; but at other times, when the 
weather is dry, the plough is used, which is the 
most expeditious implement. After gathering the 
interval, the furrow taken by the plough is bro- 
ken and separated, in which way the crop may be 
more completely gathered than when taken up by 
the grape. The potatoes are then stored up for 
winter and spring use; and as it is of importance to 
keep them as long through summer as possible, 
every endeavour ought to be made to preserve 
them from frost, and from sprouting in the spring 
months. The former is accomplished by covering 
them well with straw when lodged in a house, and 
by a thick coat of earth, when deposited in a pit; 
and the latter, by picking them carefully, at dif- . 
ferent times, when they begin to sprout^ drying 
them sufficiently by exposure to the sua; or by a 
gentle toast of a kiln. 

JMethod of cultivating potatoes in Ireland. 

The drill system, in the cultivation of potatoe? 
in Ireland, is particularly recommended by Lord 
Farnham, in a letter to Sir John Sinclair. The 
small farmers, and labourers, plant them in lazy- 
beds, eight feet wide. This mode is practised oti 
account of the want of necessary implements foi 
practising the drill system, together with a wan; 
of horses for the same purpose. 

They are cut into sets, three from a large pota 
toe; and each set to contain at least one eye. Th<' 
sets are planted at the distance of seven tncheii! 
asunder, 6^ cwt. are considered sufficient seed few 
an English acre. Lord Farnham recommends rot 
ten dung in preference to any fresh dung. If no<. 
to be procured, horse-dung, hot from tht, dunghill , 
In any soil he would recommend the dung beipw 
the seed., ■ ' " 

When the potatoes are A'egetated ten inche* 
above the surface, the scuffler must be introduced. 



334 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK, ^ 



and cast the mould from the potatoe. If any weeds 
are found in the drills, they must be hand-hoed; 
in three days afterwards they must be moulded up 
by the double-breasted plough, as high as the neck 
of the poiatoe. This mode must be practised 
twice, or in some cases three times; particularly if 
the land is foul. I do not (says Lord Farnham) 
consider any mode so good as the drill system. 
General observations. 

To prepare for the drill system either oat or 
wheat stubble, it should be ploughed in October, 
or the br ginning of November; to be ploughed 
deep, and laid up for winter dry. In March let it 
be harrowed, and give it three clean earths. Be 
very particular to eradicate the couch grass. The 
drills .0 be three feet asunder; drill deep the first 
time that there is room in the bottom of the fur- 
row to contain the dung. The best time to begin 
planting the potatoes, is about the latter end of 
April, by this system, k is as good a preparation 
for wheat as the best fallows. 

Three feet and a half for drills, are preferable to 
four feet. Mr Curwen prefers four feet and a 
half He says, the produce is immense. Pota- 
toes ought to be cut at least from two to three 
weeks before being planted; and if planted very 
i;arly, whole potatoes are preferable to cut ones, 
and dung under and over. 

To produce early potatoes in great q^'.antity. 

Early potatoes may be |»toduceu in great quan. 
tity by resetting the plants, after taking off the 
ripe and large ones. A gentleman at Dumfries 
has re-planted them six different times in one sea- 
son, without any additional manure; and, instead of 
falling off in quantity, he gets a larger crop of ripe 
ones at every raising, than the former ones. His 
plants have still on them three distinct crops, and 
he supposes they may still continue to vegetate 
and germinate until they are stopped by the frost. 
By this means he has a new crop every eight days, 
and has had so for' a length of time. 
To groto potatoes constantly on the same piece of 
ground. 

Let the cuttings be made from the finest pota- 
toes, instead of the smallest and worst, usually era- 
ployed for the purpose; and it will be found, con- 
trary to what is supposed by farmers, that they 
will not degenerate. The same will happen with 
respect to the seeds of the watery squash, early 
peas, and several other kinds of vegetables. 
7^0 preserve potatoes from frost. 

This is best done by filling completely the place 
where they are deposited, whether it be a house or 
a pit, and allowing the place to remain shut dur- 
ing the winter. But tlds cannot be done easily 
with a potatoe-house, as it cannot be completely 
packed or filled like a pit. Besides, some potatoes 
are generally wanted daily; and thus air is admit- 
ted, and a greater vacuity constantly making, both 
wiiich are very likely to be the means of proving 
tijurious or destructive to what potatoes may be in 
the house, when a severe frost sets in. There is 
no such thing in nature as a vacuum; therefore, if 
a place is not filled with some substance or other. 
It will be filled with air. For this reason, pits are 
better for preserving potatoes from frost than a 
house^ because a pit can be more effectually filled: 
and, by opening a pit when potatoes are wanted, 
and removing the whole into some part of a house, 
and still keeping over them a covering of straw, 
turf, or divot, the potatoes are kept close. A 
potatoe-house, however, is very useful, and what 
livery farmer ought to have, as in this house he 
may still keep a small quantity of his crop for 
daily use, by emptying a pit occasionally, and 
keeping them always well covered with straw, as 
nias been already wentioned. 



The potatoe-house ought to be well plastered 
with clay, and perfectly dry 'jefore using it. 

Potatoe-pits should be made upon ground that 
has a southern exposure, a deep soil, aiid declining 
to a considerable distance from the pit. In a deep 
soil, the pits can be made suftiriently deep, before 
reaching any cold bottom: and the declivitjr carries 
away water. When the pits have been fully finish- 
ed, and covered, a sod should be cut out all the 
way round the potatoes, and the cut continued a 
little way as the descent points out. A pit of 
about ten feet deep, six wide, and ten long, will 
hold from four to six cart loads of potatoes. The 
covering should consist of straw, fern, rushfes, &c. 
next the potatoe, then the whole of the earth dug 
out should be thrown upon the heap; and, last of 
all, a covering of earth or divot, if done in the best 
way. This covering will be about two feet thick. 
Another method. 

The best and easiest way of preserving potatoes, 
is for the farmer to drive all his potatoes home, 
and to lay them upon dry ground, without break- 
ing the surface, and as near the stables as possible; 
putting them in heaps of about three or four carts, 
Jien covering them with straw, and, above that, 
with turf, where it can be commanded, or with a 
neat thatching of straw. Then let a quantity of 
stable dung, of the roughest kind, and the newest, 
be laid upon each heap, to remain during the win- 
ter, but which must be removed in the spring. 
As the weather appears severe, the quantity of 
dung may be increased at pleasure. If this prac- 
tice were adopted, few or no potatoes would be 
penetrated by the frost, as none would be in ha- 
zard, except one pit, or part of it, when it was re- 
moving, or placed in the potatoe-house, during the 
winter season. 

To remove frost from potatoes. 

The weathe;'whicli soonest injures and destroys 
potatoes, is when the atmosphere is depressed 
with cold to such a degree that it congeals water; 
then potatoes, unless covered, will be frosted; and 
the cover proper to preserve them ought to be 
proportioned to the intenseness of the weather. 

Potatoes, when slightly frosted, so as to have ac- 
quired a slight sweet taste only, often, like an ani- 
mal body suddenly infected by some disorder, 
which it throws off by perspiration, are found 
quite wet, throwing out the frost by a kind of per- 
spiration. When they are in this state, in order 
to recover them, and bring them to a proper taste, 
the whole quantity infected should be turned over, 
and a quantity of mill seeds thrown among them, 
as they are turned, over; this both extracts and ab- 
sorbs the injured moisture from the body of the 
potatoes infected. But there is still a more power- 
ful remedy than simply mixing them with mill- 
seeds, and that is a small quantity of slacked lime, 
perfectly dry, mixed among the seeds to be used; 
which has a very wonderful effect in recovering 
potatoes that have been considerably injured by 
ii-ost. 

When frosted potatoes are to be used, either at 
the table, or given to horses, black cattle, or 
swine, plunging them in cold water, about half a 
day before using them, is of great advantage; and 
if put into runnmg water, so much the better, as it 
has been proved \.o be more powerful in extracting 
the frost, on account of its alterative quality and 
superior purity. 

Another method. 

Another way of removing frost from potatoes, 
when they are to be prepared for the table, is to 
strip them of their skins, and, if large, to cut them 
into two or more pieces; then to plunge them into 
cold water for a considerable time, with a handful 
of salt in the watery and, when put on to be boiled, 



HUSBANDRY. 



33ii 



put as much salt into the water as possible, not to 
make them too salt when boiled. 

This is a powerful way of making the potatoe 
throw off the bad taste and spoiled quality lodged 
in its substance. 

When prepared for horses, black cattle, and 
swine: — Sail, or saltpetre, put among the potatoes, 
and boiled together, will destroy any injitrious 
quality which frost has lodged or brought on. 
Chaff or oats, bruised in a mill, boiled with the 
frosted potatoes, when designed for horses or 
eattle, tends to destroy the bad effects of the frost. 
Uses to vohich frosted potatoes may be benejicially 
applied. 

When potatoes have acquired a disagreeable 
taste by means of frost, they will make good and 
wholesome bread, by. boiling them, as has been 
mentioned, with salt, mashing or bruising them 
small, then kneading them together with oatmeal. 
Not less than two-thirds should consist of meal, 
which will destroy the sweet taste; and the dry and 
generous quality of the meal will effectually cor- 
rect and destroy any thing noxious in the injured 
roots. 

Horses, swine, dogs, &c. may all be fed with 
potatoes, though frosted, by boiling them, and 
mixing them with oats coarsely ground, or with 
oat-meal; always addinga good quantity of salt or 
salt-petre in the mixture. Poultry also may be fed 
with potatoes very much frosted, if mixed with 
oat-meal in about equal proportions, without salt, 
as this species of animal cannot admit of it. 
Further uses of frosted potatoes. 

Potatoes frosted, wnen three times distilled, 
produce a spirit from hydrometer proof to ten per 
cent, over proof; therefore a principal purpose and 
use towhich they may be turned, is the making 
of alcohol; more particularly as that article is use- 
ful for many purposes where strength is its princi- 
pal recommendation. The ordinary strength that 
spirits are run, preparatory to converting them into 
alcohol, is from 40 to 50 per cent, over proof by 
Dieas; which, re-distilled from calcined carbonate 
of potash, will produce alcohol at 825, water being 
1000. 

When potatoes are frosted to such a degree as 
to be useless for food from their sweet taste, they 
are very useful to weavers in dressing their yarn, 
and particularly cotton. They are prepared for 
this purpose by boiling them well; then mash or 
beat them small; then put them into a vessel, 
adding a little barm, drippings of ale or porter 
barrels: allowing them to stand two or three months 
to ferment. 

Shoemakers may use it also; only, as their paste 
requires more solidity and greater strength, flour 
is generally mixed along with the fermented pota- 
toes, in about '•qual proportions. 

Bookbinders also may use this paste, alum being 
mixed to assist the strength of the composition. 
And it may be beneficially used by paper stainers 
and upholsterers, when made up with a mixture 
of flour and alum. 

When potatoes are so penetrated with frost that 
they have become quite soft, they are useless for 
man or beast; but make excellent manure for light 
sharp soils; -nd for this purpose are worth about 
one-fifth or sixth of their o"iginal value. In Ber- 
wickshire, and other places, where it is a great 
object to get their straw turned into dung, the 
value of the frosted potatoe is still greater, as it 
assists the farmer in that operation. 

To make starch, from frosted potatoes. 
f Potatoes much frosted will make very good 
starch; though it is a shade darker in colour. AU 
coarse cloths requiring to be stiffened, where 
whiteness is no object, may be done with stai-ch 



made from potatoes greatly penetrated with frost. 
The best method of making potatoes into starch, 
is to grate them down among water, then to take 
out all the refuse with the hand, and next to strain 
the whole of the water in which the potatoes have 
been grated, through a thin cloth, rather coarse, 
or fin6 sieve, and afterwards frequently putting on 
and pouring off water, until it comes clear from 
the starch, which is always allowed to settle or 
fall to the bottom of the vessel in which the opera- 
tion is performed. An experiment was tried with 
a few potatoes that were put out to frost. They 
were grated down, and made into starch powder: 
The produce of the fresh po'ntoe weighed 876 
grains, while that of the frosted was only. 412,' 
being less than half the quantity. 

The refuse of the potatoe, when taken from the 
sieve, possesses the property of cleansing woollen 
cloths without hurting their colours; and the water 
decanted from the starch powder is excellent for 
cleansing silks, without the smallest injury to their 
colour. In making hair-powder it has long been 
used, and is thsrefore well known. 
Turnips. 

The 'benefits derived from turnip husbandry are 
of great magnitude; light soils are cultivated with 
profit and facility; abundance of food is provided 
for man and beast; the earth is turned to the uses 
for which it is physically calculated: and by being 
suitably cleaned with this preparatory crop, a bed 
is provided for grass seeds, wherein they flourish 
and prosper with greater vigour than after any 
other preparation. 

To prepare the. ground. 

The first ploughing is given immediately after 
harvest, or as soon as the wheat seed is finished, 
either in length or across the field, as circumstan- 
ces may seem to require. In this state,.the ground 
remains till the oat seed is finished, when a second 
ploughing is given to it, usually in a contrary di- 
rection to the first. It is then repeatedly harrowed, 
often rolled between the harrowings, and every 
particle of root-weeds carefully picked off with the 
hand; a third ploughing is then bestowed, and the 
other operations are repeated. In this stage, if 
the ground has not bern very foul, the seed process 
generally commences; but often a fourth plough- 
ing, sometimes a fifth, is necessary, before the 
ground is sufficiently clean. Less labour, however, 
is necessary now than in former times, when a 
more regular mode of cropping was commonly 
followed. 

To sow the seed. 

The next part of the process is the sowing of the 
seed; this, almost in every case since turnips were 
introduced into this country, has been performed 
by drilling machines, of different sizes and con- 
structions, though all acting on the same princi- 
ple. At this time, the machine is drawn by a 
horse in a pair of shafts, sows two drills at a time, 
and answers extremely well, where the ground is 
flat, and the drills properly made up. The weight 
of the machine insures a regularity of sowing 
hardly to be gained by those of a different size and 
construction. From two to three pounds of seed 
are sown upon the acre, though the smallest of 
these quantities will give many more plants, in 
ordinaiy seasons, than are necessary; but as the 
seed is not an expensive article, the greater pait 
of farmers incline to sow thick, which both pro 
vides against the danger of part of the seed perish- 
ing, and gives the young plants an advantage at 
the outset. 

Turnips are sown from the beginning to the end 
of June; but the second and third weeks of the 
month are, by judicious farmers,, accounted thei 
most proper time. Some people have sown. ta* 



336 



UNIVERSAI^ RECEIPT BOOK. 



crly as May, and with advantage; but these early 
fields are apt to run to seed before winter, espe- 
cially if the autumn be favourable to vegetation. 
As a general rule, it may be laid down, that the 
earliest sowings should be, on the latest soils; plants 
on such soils are often long before they make any 
great progress; and, in the end, may be fir behind 
those in other situations, which were much later 
sown. The turnip plant, indeed, does not thrive 
rapidly till its roots reach the dung; and the pre- 
vious nourishment afforded them is often so scanty 
as to stunt tiiem altogether before they get so far. 
Cleaning process. 

The first thing to be done in this process is to 
run a horse-hoe, provincially tfermed a scraper, 
along tne intervals, keeping at such a distance from 
the young plants that they shall not be injured; 
this operation destroys all the annual weeds which 
have sprung up, and leaves the plants standing in 
regular stripes or rows. The hand-hoeing then 
commences, by which the turnips are all singled 
out, at a distance of from eight to twelve inches, 
and the redundant ones drawn into the spaces be- 
tween the i-ows. The singling out of the young 
plants is an operation of great importance, for an 
error committed in this process can hardly be af- 
terwards rectified. Boys and girla are always em- 
ployed as hoers; but a steady and trusty man-ser- 
vant is usually set over them, to see that the work 
be properly executed , 

In eight or ten days, or such a length of time as 
circumstances may require, a horse-hoe of a dif- 
ferent construction from the scraper is used. This, 
in fact, is generally a small plough, of the same 
kind with that commonl)' wrought, but of smaller 
dimensions. By this implement, the earth is 
pared away from the sides of the drills, and a sort 
of new ridge formed in the middle of the former 
interval.- The hand-hoers are again set to work, 
and every weed and surperfluous turnip is cut up; 
afterwards the horse-hoe is employed to separate 
the earth, which it formerly threw into the fur- 
rows, and lay it back to the sides of the drills. 
On dry lands this is done by the scraper; but where 
the least tendency to moisture prevails, the small 
plough is used, in order that the furrows may be 
perfectly cleaned out. This latter mode, indeed, 
is very generally practiseil. 

To cultivate the yellow turnip. 

This variety, as now cultivated in the field, is 
quite different from the yellow garden turnip, be- 
ing larger in size, containing more juice, or nu- 
tritive substance, much easier cultivated, and pre- 
serving its powers till the middle of May, when the 
grass-season may be expected. Upon ordinary 
soils It is superior to ruta baga, because it will 
grow to a considerable weight, where the other 
would be stunted or starved; and it stands the frost 
equally well. No farmer who keeps stock to any 
extent should be without it. The mode of culture 
required is in every respect similar to what is sta- 
ted concerning common turnips, with these ex- 
ceptions, that earlier sowing is necessary, and that 
the plants need not be set out so wide as they do 
not swell to such a size. 

Hiita baga or Swedish turnip. 

The process of management is precisely the same 
■with that of turnips, with this addition, that more 
dung is required, and that seed time ought to be 
three or four weeks earlier. Rich soil, however, 
is required for this article: for it will not grow to 
any size worthwhile, on soils of middling quality, 
whatever quantity of dung may be applied. 

Ruta baga is of great advantage in the feeding of 
horses, either when given raw or boiled, or with 
broken corn. If a sufficient quantity were cultiva- 
ted, a great deal of grain might be saved, while 



the health and condition of the working stock would 
be greatly invigorated and augmented. An even- 
ing feed of this nutritious article would be of in- 
calculable benefit; even most horses are fond of the 
common turnip in a raw state; and it is a subject 
well worthy of every farmer's attention, whether 
it would not be for his interest to raise these escu- 
lents in such a quantity as to serve them during the 
long period when grass cannot be obtained. That 
the health of the animals would thereby be bene- 
fited is unquestionable; and the saving of grain 
would greatly exceed the trouble occasioned by 
furnishing a daily supply of these roots. 
To destroy thefiy on turnips. 

Lime sown by the hand, or distributed by a ma- 
chine, is an infallible protection to turnips against 
the ravages of the fly. It should be applied as soon 
as the turnips come up, and iu the same daily ro- 
tation in which they were sown. The lime should 
be slaked immediately before it is used; if the air 
be not sufiiciently moist to render tnat operation 
unnecessary. 

Another method. — ^Let the farmer carefully watch 
his turnips as they come up, and whenever the fly 
makes its appearance, take a certain quantity of 
brimstone, about 2^ or 3 lbs. to an acre; put this 
into a kettle, and melt it in the turnip-field, in a 
situation the most eligible for the wind to carry the 
fume over the ground; then take any combustible 
matter calculated to make a considerable smoke, 
which, being dipped in the liquid brimstone, must 
be strewed all over the field in a state of ignition, 
and so close together that the fumes of the burning 
matter may completely cover every part of the 
ground. The Decoction of the bitter almqnd is 
more fatal to the lives of insects and worms than 
any other vegetable or mineral poison. It is made 
by infusing the bitter almond powder (the ground 
cakes that remain after expressing the oil) in warm 
water for 24 hours; 28 lbs. (which may be pur- 
chased for 5s.) will malij 40 gallons, a sufficient 
quantity for a large garden. 

Remedy against the bite of the turnip fiy. 

It is upon the principle of creating an offensive 
smell that turnip seed is recommended to be steep- 
ed iu train oil before it is sown. This has been 
found to be a perfect security against the bite of 
the turnip fly. 

To prevent thejly in turnips. 

Sow good and fresh seed in well-manured and 
well-prepared ground. 

To prevent the increase of pismires in graes land* 
newly laid down. 

Make a strong decoction of walnut-tree leaves, 
and after opening several of the pismire's sandy 
habitations, pour upon them a quantity of the li- 
quor, just sufficient to fill the hollow of each heap}^ 
after the middle has been scooped, throw in the 
contents from the sides, and press down the whole 
mass with the foot, till it becomes level with the 
rest of the field. This if not found effectual at first 
must be repeated a second or a third time, when 
they infallibly will be destroyed. 
To prevent growing crops from the devastation of 
vermin. 

The good effects of elder in preserving plants 
from insects and flies, are experienced in the fol- 
lowing cases: — '' 

1. For preventing cabbage and cauliflower 
plants from being devoured and damaged by cater- 
pillars. 

2. For preventing blights, and their effects uii 
fruit-trees. 

3. For preserving corn from yellow flies and 
other insects. 

4. For securing turnips from the ravages of flies. 
The dwarf elder appears to exhale a much more 



HUSBANDRY. 



SSf7 



fetid smell than the common elder, and therefore 
should be preferred. 

To cli3ck the ravages of the turnip fly. 
Suppose ihat the farmer has no objection to be- 
stow 5 lbs. of seed per acre in order to secure his 
crop of turnips. If he sows broad-cast, let him 
medicate one half of the seed, in the mani.erto be 
afterwards explained, leaving the other half unpre- 
pared. The latter may be sown one day, and the 
medicated a da^Jbr two after, so as to give a start 
to the other. The medicated will, in that case, es- 
cape from the attacks of the fly or beetle. If the 
slug, however, does appear, rolling in the night is 
necessary. If the farmer drills his turnips, after 
the land is prepared for the drill, 2^ lbs. of the un- 
medicated seed should be sown broad-cast, and a 
day or two afterwards the medicated seed, sown in 
the drills. In this way a crop may be obtained at 
least by the industrious farmer, who does not 
grudge a little trouble to secure a good one. He 
will "find that the plants sown broad-cast will give 
full employment to the fly, till the less savoury 
plants in the drill pass the mrment of danger. As 
to preparing or medicating the seed; sulphur is so 
obnoxious to the whole insect tribe, and at the 
same time so favourable to vegetation, that it seems 
entitled to a preference. The turnip seed may 
be a little damped, and then mixed with the flour 
of sulphur, at the rate of two ounces of sulphur to 
■ one pound of seed; or let the seed be steeped in a 
liquor, formed by boiling three parts of lime to 
one of sulphur, and 100 parts of water. This steep 
is much approved of for all such purposes. It is 
not improbable that the same liquid in which wheat 
is commonly pickled would prove a preservative 
against the fly. It may be proper to add, that 
when the season is very dry, it has been found a 
most useful practice to moisten the dung well, before 
it is inserted into the drill; to spread the dung very 
rapidly in the rows, and instantly to sow, at the rate 
of four pounds of turnip-seed per acre, upon the 
dung. The ground should then be gathered up 
into bouts, 27 inches wide, by the going and returning 
of the plough. The seeds are thus put in con- 
tact with the wet dung. Many perish, but a suffi- 
cient number escape to produce a good crop. In 
this case, the sowing any un medicated seed broad- 
cast, may be dispensed with. 

To cultivate san-foin. 

Chalky loams and gravelly soils on a calcareous 
bottom are most proper for this grass. It is more 
adapted to hay than pasture; and much heavier 
crops of this grass are obtained from thin lands 
than when clover is sown. San-foin is a hardy 
kind of grass, well worth l.ie attention of cultiva- 
tors in upland districts, where the soil is obdurate 
and shallow, and where clover and rye-grass can 
•with difiieulty be raised to such a height as to stand 
the scythe. When sown, fresn seed ought con- 
stantl)' to be used, as the vegetation of old seed 
cannot be de[)ended upon. Four bushels may be 
used for an acre; and great care ought to be taken 
to cover the seed well, and to put it deeper into 
the ground than the seeds of other grasses. 
'J'o presei've grain from vermin. 

To preserve rye, and secure it from insects and 
rats, nothing more is necessary than not to winnow 
it after it is threshed, and to stow it in the grana- 
ries mixed with the chaff. In this state it has been 
kept for more than three years, without experi- 
encing the smallest alterations, and even without 
the necessity of being turned, to preserve it from 
humidity and fermentation. Rats and mice may 
be prevented from entering the barn, by putting 
some wild vine or hedge plants upon the heaps: 
the smell ot this wood is so offensive to these ani- 
mals that they will not approach it. 
2 S 



To prevent the destruction of corn by insects. 

In laying the floors of a granary, let Italian pop- 
lars be made use of for the timber. Many exper- 
iments show that granaries, after laying down this 
flooring, will no longer be infested' with weevils, 

&CC. 

To destroy slugs upon wheat. 

Collect a number of lean ducks; keep them all 
day without food, and turn them into the fields to- 
wards evening; each duck would devour the slugs 
much faster than a man could collect them, and 
they would soon get very fat for market. 

To prevent the ravages oj mice in cm-n stacks. 

The following simple remedy against the depre- 
dations of mice in corn stacks, has lately been re- 
commended for its undoubted efficacy. Sprinkle 
from 4 to 6 bushels of dry white sand upon the root 
of the slack before the thatch is put on. The sand 
is no detriment to the corn, and stacks thus dress- 
ed have remained without injury. So very effec- 
tive is the remedy, that nests of dead young mice 
have been found where the sand has been used, 
but not a live mouse could be seen. 
To clear barns and oiU-houses from mites and 
■weevils. 

The following method is oractised in Germany, 
for granaries infested with mites and weevils. Let 
the walls and rafters, above and below, of such 
granaries be covered completely with quick-lime, 
slaked in water, in which trefoil, wormwood, and 
hyssop, have been boiled. This composition should 
be applied as hot as possible. A farmer, wlio had 
the granaries empty in Jr.ne last, collected quanti- 
ties of the largest sized ants in sacks, and scatter- 
ed them about the places infested with weevils. 
The ants immediately fell upon and devoured 
them all. 

To destroy slugs on land. 

Procure some fresh lime, and after throwing as 
much water upon it as will reduce it to a powder, 
sow the lime in a hot state upon the land that is 
overrun with the vermin, at the rate of about 12 
bushels to the acre. The lime should be sown to- 
wards the wind, and falling upon them in a fer- 
mented state, it will instantly kill them. 
Jjsefidness of the hedgehog. 

This little animal, the object of persecution, not 
only to little boys, but to the tk.'mer, and game- 
keeper, on account of its supposed mischievous 
propensities, is in fact one which the agricultur- 
ist should endeavour to preserve; as it is the mo 
eflectual destroyer of snails, worms, and insect 
and on which it almost entirely subsists. A garden 
in which a hedge-hog is kept, will, in the course 
of two or three nights, be entirely freed from slugs; 
and that enemy to fruit, the millepede, is a favour- 
ite food to him. The London gardeners are so 
aware of this as often to purchase hedgehogs to put 
in their grounds. The opinion that this animal 
sucks cows is too absurd to require refutation. 
The mouth of the hedgehog is too small to lay 
hold of the teat of a cow, even if it could be be- 
lieved by any reflecting person that she would suf- 
fer its sharp bristles to touch her; and if it ever 
has been found eating poultry or game, as has by 
some been asserted, they must previously have 
been killed by rats, weasels, or some more fero- 
cious animal than the hedgehog, whose habits are 
those of gentleness and timidity, who is not form- 
ed for attack, and whose sole mode of defence i" 
rolling itself up in a ball and opposing its cti-ong 
prickles to the enemy. This staleme:.t is the re- 
sult of two years' observation on the nature and 
mode of life of the hedgehog; and is given in the 
hope irf rescuing a harmless and useful creature 
from the general abhorrence in which it is held, 
and the unmerciful treatment it meets with. 

2 n 



338 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



To destroy weeds. 
To clear the ground of weeds is an operation no 
less necessary in husbandry, than the disposing it 
to produce vegetables of any kind in plenty. 

Annual weeds, or such as spring from seed, and 
die the same year, are most easily destroyed. For 
this purpose, it will be sufficient to let them spring 
up till near the time of ripening their seed, and 
then plough them down before it comes to maturi- 
ty. It is also of service to destroy such weeds as 
grow in borders, or neglected corners, and fre- 
quently scatter their seeds to a great distance; such 
as the thistle, dandelion, rag-weed, &:c. ; for these 
are sufficient to propagate their species through a 
deal of ground, as their seeds are carried about 
with the wind to very considerable distances. A 
farmer ought also to take care, that the small seeds 
of weeds, separated from corn in winnowing, be 
not sown again upon the ground; for this certainly 
happens when they are thrown upon a dung hill; 
because, being the natural offspring of the earth, 
they are not easily destroyed. The best method of 
preventing any mischief from this cause is to burn 
them. 

Perennial -weeds are such as are propagated by 
the roots, and last for a number of years. They 
cannot be effectually destroyed, but by removing 
the roots from the ground, which is often a matter 
of some difficulty. The only method that can be 
depended upon in this case, is frequent ploughing, 
to render the ground as tender as possible; and 
harrowing with a particular kind of harrow, in or- 
der to collect these pernicious roots. When col- 
lected, they ought to be dried and burnt, as the 
only effectual method 'of insuring their doing no 
farther mischief. 

To destroy broom, furze, and thorns. 

Besides those kinds of weeds, which are rf an 
herbaceous nature, there are others which are 
woody, and grow to a very considerable size; such 
as broom, furze, and thorns. The first m.^y be de- 
stroyed by frequent ploughing and harrowing, in 
the same manner as other perennial weeds are. 
Another method cf destroying broom, is by pas- 
tui'ing the field where it grows with sheep. 

The best method of extirpating furze, is to set 
fire to it in frosty weather; for frost has the effect 
of withering and making them burn readily. The 
stumps must then be cut over with a hatchet; and 
when the ground is well softened by rain, it may 
be ploughed up, and the roots taken out by a har- 
row adapted to that pui-pose. If the field is soon 
laid down to grass, lliey will again spring up; in 
this case, pasturing with sheep is an effectual 
remedy, 'rhe thorn, or bramble, can only be ex- 
tirpated by ploughing up the ground and collecting 
the roots. 

Usefidness of moving -weeds. 

In the month of June weeds are in their most 
succulent state, and in this condition, after they 
have lain a few hours to wither, hungry cattle will 
eat greedily almost every species. There is 
scarcely a hedge, border, or a nook, but what at 
that season is valuable; and it certainly must be 
good management to embrace tlie transient oppor- 
tunity; for in a few weeks they will become nui- 
sances. 

To banish crows from a field. 

Machinery of various kinds, such as wind-mills 
in miniature, horse-rattles, &c. to be put in motion 
by the wind, are often employed to frighten crows: 
but with all of these, they soon become familiar; 
when they cease to be of any use whatever. 

The most effectual method of banisliing them 
li'om p field, as far as experience goes, is to com- 
bine with one or other of the scare-crows in vogue, 
the frequent use of the musket. Nothing strikes 



such terror into these sagacious animals, as tho 
sight of a fowling piece, and the explosion of gun- 
powder, which they have known so often to be 
fatal to their race. Such is their dread of a fowl- 
ing-piece, that if one is placed upon a dyke, or 
other eminence, it will for a long time prevent 
them from alighting on the adjacent grounds. 
To cultivate carrots. 
To command crops of this root, manure the land 
with 25 or 30 loads of dung per acre, pretty rotten; 
plough it in, and then cover the seed by harrow- 
ing. The dung neither injures the taste of the 
carrot, makes them grow deformed, nor causes the 
canker. A farmer's object is to produce as great 
a quantity as possible from every acre, which must 
undoubtedly be accomplished by manure. In con- 
firmation of this opinion, the following statement 
is given: — 

U7imanured carrots, sown March 31, 1808. 
Ton, Stone. 

Roots 9 137 per acre. 

Tops 4 24 do. 

JUanwed after potatoes, sown April 7, 1808. 
Ton. Stone, 

Roots 12 113 per acre. 

Tops 5 71 do. 

The soil in both were exactly the same; and the 
dung half rotten. The preceding crop had in both 
instances been potatoes, and the quality of the car- 
rots was similar in both cases. An extensive col- 
lection of such well authenticated experiments aro 
better calculated to extend the boundaries of agri- 
cultural knowledge, than all the theories and mere 
reasonings upon them, yet published. 

JHode of cultivating parsnips in Guernsey. 
Although this rofit is cultivated in almost all the 
soils of that island, that is esteemed the best whicli 
consists of a good light loam, the deeper the bet- 
ter. If the loamy soil is not deep, the under soil 
at least 'should be opened, to allow of the free 
penetration of the roots. 

If the land is not perfectly clear from couch grass 
and other weeds, it is pared with the paring-plough 
in October, and harrowed to remove the weeds. 
About the middle of February, the land is prepared 
for sowing by means of 2 ploughs. A small 
plough precedes, and opens the furrow to the depth 
of four inches, and is followed by a large plough 
drawn by four or six oxen and as many hortes, 
which deepens the furrow to ten or fourteen 
inches. As soon as the clods are capable of being 
broken, the harrowing commences, and is repeatec' 
till the soil is pulverized, and reduced nearly to 
the state of garden mould. The whole of the pro- 
cesses are intended to lOOsen the soil to as great a 
depth as possible. 

The seed should not be more than a year old, as 
it is uncertain when of a greater age. It is sown 
broad-cast, and on a day just so windy as to insurt 
its regular spreading over the surface. The see(* 
is then covered by the harrow. The quantitj 
sown is from 2 to 4 quarts. 

As soon as the plants are sufficiently strong, they 
are hand-weeded and thinned, and this operation 
must be repeated at least three times during the 
summer. The distance -between the plants is ul- 
timately about nine inches; and to save a portion 
of the labour, a harrowing is sometimes given be- 
tween the first and second weedings. 

The first weeding is performed about the middle 
of May, and repeated when necessary, till the be- 
ginning of July. 

The roots are dug up nbout the middle of Au- 
gust, when they are thought to be Uiost nutritious 
and to fatten animals better than after the leavej 
are decayed. The quantity dug up at this season 
is not more than is required for two or three days' 



HUSBANDRY. 



339 



consumption. It is only in October tliat the root 
is fully ripe, when it may be dug up with forks, 
and preserved diy in sheds during the winter; but 
it is usually left in the ground in Guernsey, where 
frost is rare, and taken up as it is wanted. 

The parsnip is considered by the Guernsey far- 
mers to be the most nutritious root known, superior 
even to the carrot and the potatoe. When small, it 
is given to the animals whole, but when large, it 
is sliced longitudinally. Hogs preler this root to 
all others, and it makes excellent pork. Horses 
are equally fond of the parsnip, although from 
eatirfg it with too much avidity it sometimes sticks 
in the throat. But this may easily be prevented by 
cutting the roots into pieces before they are given. 
1 cultivate hemp. 
The soil. 

The soils most suited to the culture of this plant, 
are those of the deep, black, putrid vegetable kind, 
that are low, and rather inclined to moisture, and 
those of the deep mellow, loamy, or sandy descrip- 
tions; The quantity of produce is generally much 
greater on the former than on the latter; but it is 
said to be greatly inferior in quality. It may, how- 
ever, be grown with success on lands of a less rich 
and fertile kind, by premier care and attention in 
their culture and preparation. 

To prepare the ground. 

In order to render the grounds proper for the 
reception of tlie crop, they should be reduced into 
a fine mellow state of moulo', and be perfectly 
cleared from weeds, by repeated ploughing. When 
it succeeds grain crops, the work is mostly accom- 
plished by three ploughings, and as many harrow- 
ings: the first being given immediately after the 
preceding crop is removed, the* second early in the 
spring, and the last, or seed ■earth, just before the 
seed is to be put in. In the last ploughing, well 
rotted manure, in the proportion of 15 or 20, or 
good compost, in the quantity of 25 or 33 horse 
cartloads, should be turned into the land; as with- 
out this it is seldom that good crops can be pro- 
duced. The surface of the ground being left per- 
fectly flat, and as free from furrows as possible; as 
by these means the moisture is more effectually re- 
tained, and the growth of the plants more fully 
promoted. 

Quantity of seed, &c. 

It is of much importance in the cultivation of 
hemp crops, that the seed be new, and of a good 
quality, which may in some measure be known by 
its feeling heavy in the hand, and being of a bright 
shining colour. 

The proportion of seed that is most commonly 
employed, is from two to three bushels, according 
to the quality of the land; but, as the crops are 
greatly injured by the plants standing too closely 
together, two bushels, or two bushels and a half, 
may be a more advantageous quantity. 

As the hemp plant is extremely tender in its 
early growth, care should be taken not to put the 
seed into the ground at so early a period, as that it 
may be liable to be injured by the efteets of frost; 
nor to protract the sowing to so late a season, as 
that the quality of the produce may be affected. 
The best season, on the drier sorts of land, in the 
southern districts, is, as soon as possible after the 
frosts are over in April, and, on the same descrip- 
tions of soil, in the more northern ones, towards 
the close of the same month, or early in the ensu- 
ing one. 

JMethod ofsotuing. 

The most general method of putting crops of 
this sort into the soil is the broadcast, the seed 
being dispersed over the surface of the land in as 
even a manner as possible, and afterwards covered 
in by means of a very light harrowing. In many 



cases, however, especially where the crops are to 
stand for seed, the drill method in rows, at small 
distances, might be had recourse to with advan- 
tage; as, in this way, the early growth of the 
plants would be more effectually promoted, and 
the land be kept in a more clean and perfect state 
of mould, which are circumstances of importance 
in such crops. In whatever method the seed is 
put in, care must constantly be taken to keep the 
birds from it for some time afterwards. 

This sort of crop is frequently cultivated on the 
same pieces of ground for a great number of years, 
without any other kind of intervening; but, in such 
cases, manure must be applied with almost every 
crop, in pretty large proportions, to prevent the 
exhaustion that must otherwise take place. It may 
be sown after most sorts of grain crops, especially 
where the land possesses sufficient fertility, and is 
in a jjroper state of tillage. 

After culture. 

As hemp, from its tall growth and thick foliage, 
soon covers the surface of the land, and prevents 
the rising of weeds, little attention is necessary 
after the seed has been put into the ground, espe- 
cially where the broadcast method of sowing is 
practised; but, when put in by the drill machine, a 
hoeing or two may be had recourse to with advan- 
tage in the early growth of the crop. 

In the culture of tliis plant, it is particularly 
necessary that the same piece of land contains both 
male and female, or what is sometimes denominated 
simple hemp. The latter kind contains the seed. 

When the crop is ripe, (which is known by it? 
becoming of a whitish-yellow colour, and a few of 
the leaves beginning to drop from the stems; thij 
happens commonly about 13 or 14 weeks from the 
period of its being sown, according as the seasoB 
may be dry or wet (the first sort being mostly ripe 
some weeks before the latter), the next operation 
is that of taking it from the ground; which is ef- 
fected by pulling it up by the roots, in small par- 
cels at a time, by the hand, taking care to shake off 
the mould well from them before the handsful are 
laid down. In some districts, the whole crop is 
pulled together, without any distinction being 
made between the different kinds of hemp; while, 
in others, it is the practice to separate and pull 
them at different times, according to their ripeness. 
The latter is obviously the better practice; as by 
pulling a large proportion of the crop before it is 
in a proper state of maturity, the quantity of pro- 
duce must not only be considerably lessened, but its 
quality greatly injured by being rendered less 
durable. 

After being thus pulled, it is tied up in small par- 
cels, or what are sometimes provincially termed 
baits. 

Where crops of this kind are intended for seed- 
ing, they should be suffered to stand till the seed 
becomes in a perfect state of maturity, which is 
easily known by the appearance of it on inspection. 
The stems are then pulled and bound up, as in the 
other case, the bundles being set up in the same 
manner as grain, until the seed becomes so dry and 
firm as to shed freely. It is then either immedi- 
ately threshed out upon large cloths for the pur- 
pose in the field, or taken home to have the opera- 
tion afterwards performed. 

Process of grassing hemp. 

The hemp, as soon as pulled, is tied up in small 
bundles, frequently at both ends. 

It is then conveyed to pits, or ponds of stagnant 
water, about six or eight feet in depth, such as 
nave a clayey soil being in general preferred, and 
deposited in beds, according to their size, and 
depth; the small bundles being laid both in n 
straight direction and crosswise of each other, so 



340 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



as to bind perfectly together; the whole being 
loaded ■with timber, nr other materials, so as to 
keep the beds of hemp just below the surface of 
the water. 

It is not usual to water more than 4 or 5 times 
in the same pit, till it has been filled with water. 
Where the ponds are not sufficiently large to con- 
tain the whole of the produce at once, it is the 
practice to pull the hemp only as it can be admit- 
ted into them, it being thought disadvantageous to 
leave the hemp upon the ground, after being pull- 
ed. It is left in these pits four, five, or six days, 
or even more, according to the warmth of the sea- 
son, and the judgment of the operator, on his ex- 
amining whether the hempy material readily sepa- 
rates from the reed or stem; and then taken up and 
conveyed to a pasture field, which is clean and 
even, the bundles being loosened, and spread out 
thinly, stem by stem, turning it eveiy second or 
third day, especially in damp weather, to prevent 
its being injured by worms or other insects. It 
should remain in this situation for two, three, four, 
or more weeks, according to circumstances,. and 
be then collected togetlier when in a perfectly dry 
state, tied up into large bundles, and placed in 
some secure building, until an opportunity is af- 
forded for breaking it, in order to separate the 
hemp. By this means the process of grassing is 
not only shortened; but the more expensive ones 
of breaking, scutching, and bleaching the yarn, 
rendered less violent and troublesome. 

After the hemp has been removed from the field, 
it is in a state to be broken and swingled, opera- 
tions that are mostly performed by common la- 
bourers, by means of machinery for the purpose, 
the produce being tied up in stones. The refuse, 
collected in the latter processes, is denominated 
sheaves, and is in some districts employed for the 
purposes of fuel. After having undergone these 
different operations, it is ready for the purposes of 
the manufacturer. 

To cultivate Jlax. 

The soils most suitable for flax, besides the al- 
luvial kind, are deep friable loams, and such as 
contain a large proportion of vegetable matter in 
their composition. Strong clays do not answer 
well, nor soils of a gravelly or dry sandy nature. 
But whatever be the kind of soil, it ought neither 
to be in too poor nor too rich a condition; because, 
in the lattei case, the flax is apt to grow too luxu- 
riant, and to produce a coarse sort; and, in the for- 
mer case, the plant, from growing weakly, affords 
only a small produce. 

To prepare the ground. 

When grass land is intended for flax, it ought to 
be broken up as early in the season as possible, so 
that the soil may be duly mellowed by the winter 
frosts, and in good order for being reduced by the 
harrows, when the seed process is attempted. If 
flax is to succeed a corn crop, the like care is re- 
quired to procure the aid of frost, without which 
the surface cannot be rendered fine enough for re- 
ceiving the seed. Less frost, however, will do in 
the last, than in the first case; therefoie the grass 
land ought always to be earliest ploughed. At seed 
time, harrow the land well before the seed is dis- 
tributed, then cover the seed to a sufficient depth, 
by giving a close double time of the harrows. 
Water-turrow the land, and remove any stones and I" 
roots that may remain on the surface, which 
fiui^nes the seed process. 

Quantity of seed. 

When a crop of seed is intended to be taken, 
thin sowing is preferable, in order that the plants 
may have room to fo.-k or spread out their leaves, 
and to obtain air for the blossoming and filling sea- 
sons. But it is a mistiike to sow thin, when flax 



is intended to be taken; for the crop then becomes 
coarse, and often unproductive. From eight to 
ten pecks per acre is a proper quantity in the last 
case; but when seed is the object, six pecks will 
do very well. 

To save the flax and seed. 

Flax should be pulled when the lower part of the 
plant begins to turn yellow, and when, on opening 
the pods, the most forward of the seeds are found 
in a soft state, and the middle of the seeds is green; 
while the seed is quite soft, the flax should be 
spread on the ground, in bundles about as much as 
a woman can grasp with both hands, and it should 
remain so, till the upper part is dry: in fine weather 
it will be dry in 24 or 48 hours; the bundles should 
be then made up, with the A\j part inside, and 
then set up in stocks, of ten bundles each, and 
stand on the ground till the whole is dry, pods and 
all; the seed will then be ripe, and the flax in the 
best state; it may then be stacked, housed, or 
worked; great care should be taken to keep the 
root-ends even. 

JMethod of watering. 

When flax is pulled, it ought to be immediately 
put into the water, so that it may part with the 
rind or shaw, and be fi for the manufacturer. 
Standing pools, for many reasons, are most proper 
for the purpose, occasioning the flax to have a bet- 
ter colour, to be sooner ready for the grass, ^nc* 
even to be of superior quality in every respect. 
When put into the water, it is tied up in beets, or 
small sheaves; the smaller the better, because it is 
then most equally watered. These sheaves ought 
to be built in the pool, in a reclining upright pos- 
ture, so that the weight placed above may keep 
the whole firm down. In warm weather, ten days 
of the watering process is sufficient; but it is pro- 
per to examine the pools regularly after the seventh 
day, lest the flax should putrify or rot, which some- 
times happens in very warm weather. Twelve 
days will answer in any sort of weather; though it 
may be remarked, that it is better to give rather 
toe little of the water, than too much, as any de- 
ficiency may be easily made up, by suffering it to 
lie long-;r on the grass, whereas an excess of water 
admits of no remedy. After lying on the grass 
for a due time, till any defecf of the watering pro- 
cess is rectified, the flax is taken up, tied when 
dry in large sheaves, and carried to the mill to be 
switched and prepared for the liackle. 
Mr Lee^s invention for dressing flax. — Instruc- 
tions for using the machinery. 

The process is divided into two parts; the first 
part is intended for the farmer, or flax-grower, to 
bring the flax into a fit state for general or common 
purposes. This is performed by three machines; 
one for thrashing out the seed, one for breaking 
and separating the wood from the fibre, and one 
for further separating the broken wood and matter 
from the fibre. In some cases, the farn.ers will^ 
perhaps, thrash out the seed in their own mill, and 
therefore, in such cases, the first machine will be, 
of coiirse, unnecessary. 

The second part of the process is intended for 
the manufacturer to bring the flax into a state foe 
the very finest purpc^es, such as lace, cambric, 
damask, and very fine linen. This second i>art is 
performed by the refining machine only. 
The thrashing mai kine. 

Take the flax in small bundles, as it comes frnn» 
the field or stack, and holding it in the left hand, 
put the seed end between the thrashing machine, 
and the bed or block, against which the machine 
is to strike; then take the handle of the machine 
in the right hand, and move the machir.e backward 
and forward, to strike on the flax, until the seed 
is all tiii'ashed out. 



HUSBANDRY 



.941 



The breaking machine. 

Take the flax in small handsful in the left hand, 
8|)rea(l it flat between the third and little finger, 
with the seed end downwards, and the root-end 
above, as near the hand as possible; then put it 
\'r\ ween the beater of the breaking machine, and 
I 'Hi it gently till the three or four inches, which 
lia\t; been Under the operation of the machine, ap- 
pear to be soft; then remove the flax a little higher 
in the hand, so as to let the soft part of the flax 
rest upon the little finger, and continue to beat it 
till all is soft, and the wood is separated from the 
fibre, keeping the left hand close to the block, and 
the flax as flat upon the block as possible. The 
other end of the flax is then to be turned; and the 
end which has been beaten is to be wrapped round 
the little finger, the root-end flat, and beaten in 
the machine till the wood is separated, exactly in 
the same way as the other end was beaten. 
The cleansing 7nacMne. 

Is to be used in the same way, in all respects, as 
the breaking machine; first cleansing one end of 
the flax, and then turning the other, keeping the 
flax all the while flat in the hand. 
The hackle. 

A common hackle will be found useful, in this 
stage, for opening the ends; and may be placed, 
for greater convenience., at the side of the breaking 
and cleansing machine. 

This concludes the first process of the machinery 
intended for the farmer, or flax-grower. The se- 
cond, or manufacturer's process requires 
The refining machine. 

Take a small piece of flax, as it comes from the 
breaking or cleansing machine; pass the seed end 
through the fluted rollers of the refining machine, 
and bring it round, laying it flat on the root-end 
of the flax, forming it into a skein. A few fibres 
of the end brought round, and looped in the flax 
on which it is lai<l, will keep the skein together. 
It must be kept flat and even on the machine, 
■which may continue to go round, and work the 
flax, till it is brought to any degree of fineness that 
may be required, and this will not require more 
than from two to six minutes. 

Washing or xvlutening. 

The flax, when prepared by these machines, 
•without having been water-steeped, or dew-rotted, 
may be washed in small quantities at a time, either 
in water only, or with soap and water, without any 
other mixture, and brought by these simijle means 
to the purest white. It is to be wrung several 
times in water till the water becomes no longer 
coloured from the matter; and care is to be taken 
that the flax is laid flat like tape, and then spread 
upon tl>e grass; but it is recommended that the 
flas should be spun in the yellow state, and Ihfen 
washed in warm water and soap, or boiled, with 
care, in water and soap, from 10 to 15 minutes, 
which, when dried, will be perfectly white. If 
the weather should be favourable, it would be well 
to have it dried on the grass. 

As to the labour required, the machines are 
easily wrought by women or girls, and without any 
assistance from men. 

The produce. 

As to the produce, of difterent degrees of fine- 
ness, from a given weight of the raw material, we 
subjoin the following statement. 

112 lbs. of flax from the stack, after the seed 
was thrashed out, produced 30 lbs. in the state 
No. 1; refined to No. 3, it produced 20 lbs. of flax 
and 3 lbs. of common low; '■2ii lbs. of No. 3 pro- 
duced 14^ lbs. of No. 4 The loss in weight is 
caused by the discharge iX matter; there is no loss 
.')f fibre. 
An average crop will produce about two tons to 



the acre, after the seed is thrashed out. This will 
produce one-fourth fibre, making 10 owt. to the 

acre No. 1. 

To cultivate hops. — Tlie soil, &c. 

The hop is planted on various soils, and chiefly 
in valleys. Hops are generally of the best quality 
from strong clay land. The crop, however, is 
lir^re very precarious. Those on peat are much 
more productive, but are liable to be aftecteil by 
the mould in some seasons, which reduces their 
value considerably. The best plantations are on a 
deep loamy soil, where the produce of the latter, 
and the quality of the former, are sometimes ob- 
tained. Those which are grown on sandy and 
gravelly lands are seldom remarkable for either 
great produce, or superior quality. 

The plant is extremely liable to disasters, from 
its first putting up in the spring, until the time of 
picking the crop, which is in September. Snails 
or slugs, ants and flies, are formidable enemies in 
the first instance. Frosts are inimical to its 
growth, and the vines are frequently blighted, even 
after they have reached the top of the poles. Small 
green flies, and other insects, which make their 
appearance in the montjis of May and June, when 
the wind is about north-east, often greatly injure 
them; and they are subject to take damage by -.igh 
winds from the south-west. The best situation 
for a plantation, therefore, is a southern aspect, 
well shaded on three sides, either by hills or plant- 
ing, which is supposed to be the chief protection 
that can be given them. 

To plant hops. 

In the winter time provide the soil and manure 
for the hop-grourd against the following spring. 
If the dung be rotten, mix it with two or three 
parts of common earth, and let it incorporate to 
gelher, till there is occasion to make use of it in 
making the hop-hills; but if it be new dung, then 
let be mixed as before till the sjiring .n the next 
year, for new dung is very injurious to nops. Hops 
require to be planted in a situation so open that the 
air may freely pass round and between them, to 
dry up and dissipate the moisture, which often de- 
stroys the middles of large plantations, while the 
outsides remain unhurt. 

The bills should be 8 or 9 feet asunder. If the 
ground be intended to be ploughed with horses be- 
tween the hills, it wili be best to plant them in 
squares, chequerwise: but if the ground is so sraal. 
that it may be done with the breast-plough, ot 
spade, the holes should be I'anged in a quincunx 
form. Which way soever is made use of, a stake 
should be stuck down at all the places where the 
hills are to be made. 

'Jo choose hops. 

Be very particular in the choice of the plants as 
to kind; for if the uop-garden be planted with a 
mixture of several sorts of hops, that rijien at 
several times, it will cause much trouble, and great 
detriment. 

The two best sorts are the white, and the grey 
bino; the'latter is a large square hop, more hardy 
bears more abundantly, but ripens later than the 
former. There is another sort of the white bind, 
which ripens a week or ten days before the com- 
mon; but this is tenderer, and a less plentiful bear- 
er; though it has ihis advantage, that it comes first 
to market. If there be a sort of hop you value, 
and would wish to increase, the superfluous binds 
may be laid down when the hops are tied, cutting 
off the tops, and burying them in the hill; or when 
the hops are dressed all the cuttings may be saved; 
for almost every part will grow, and become a 
good set the next spring. 

Seusons of plantings 

The Kentish planters approve the months of Oo- 
3 /)2 



9-12 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



tober and March. The most usual time of pro- 
curing the cuttings is in March, when the hops are 
cut and dressed. As to the manner of planting 
the sets, there should be five good sets planted in 
every liill, one in the middle, and the rest round 
about, sloping. Let them be pressed close \vitl» 
the h»nd, and covered with fine earth; a stick shoi»lcJ 
be placed on each side of the hill to secure it. 
To form a new plantation. 

The best method is, to have cuttings from ap- 
pi'oved stock, planted out the year before they are 
vianted, in the hop-ground; as the use of plants 
instead of cuttings, not only gains a year, but are 
(iiore certain to nourish. A small piece of moist 
'and is sufficient to raise plants for many acres, 
and at little expense. If the ground be in grass, 
pare and dig in the pods; work the land with a 
spade, and set it out into ridges of 3jt yards wide, 
and two yards between each; having a strip of grass, 
(called a pillar,) next every ridge, and an open 
di-ain between every two pillars, the depth of 
which must vary according to the soil, sonje being 
less than one foot, and others nearly four feet in 
depth. Three rows of plants, or, as they are 
termed, hills, are made ypon each ridge, which 
should intersect each other; they are generally 2 
yarJs distant in the rows, so that about 1300 are 
the usual number of hills in a statute acre. Small 
sticks are proper to tie the binds up to, the first 
year, then small poles for a year or two; the size 
of which should be gradually increased. Some 
set 2 poles to every hill, which is proper for ground 
producing luxuriant binds; but on clay land three 
poles are set in a triangular form to the hills on 
the two outside rows of each ridge, and only two 
in the middle row. Many additional poles, longer 
than the rest, called catch-poles, are also set to 
take the binds as they run beyond the lesser poles. 
Where the bind is weak, three heads are commonly 
trained up each pole; though two are better, if 
strong. If the ground intended for a new planta- 
tion is not clean from couch-grass, a complete fal- 
low is essential, whether it is grass or stubble; and 
a crop of turnips may be taken to advantage, if 
the land is proper lor their growth, and can be 
made clean, as hops are planted in March. 
To take up hop-ground. 

The following are termed the annual orders: — 
Digging the ground completely over; hoeing the 
earth from the hills, and cutting oft' the stock a 
little above the root, which are called pickling and 
cutting; poling, which is carrying the poles from 
the stacks, and setting them down to the hills with 
a round implement, shod with iron, and called a 
poy, having a crutch at the top, and a peg thi-ough 
the middle to tread upon; tying the binds round 
the poles with rushes, and pulling up the super- 
fluous binds; hoeing the ground all over with a hoe 
of large dimensions; wheeling and laying manure 
upon every hill; covering the manure with the soil, 
which is done by scraping the ground over with a 
hoe, and is called hilling; and stacking, which is 
carrying and setting up the poles into heaps or 
stacks, after the crop has been taken. 
Extra-works. 

As the preceding are termed the ordinary, so 
the following are called the extra-works, as not 
being included in the yearly bargain with the men 
by t!ie generality of planters, and some of them 
are done only by the very best managers. On 
clayey ground, either the earth ought to be bared 
off the hills, and a covering of good manure ap- 
plied to them previous to digging, which will re- 
quire from 12 to 15 tons per acre; or from 20 to 
25 tons of manure, or a greater quantity of fresh 
earth (whon the ground wants condition) should 



be wheeled and spreaa all over the ridges. It is 
not improper, in some cases, to pursue these 
methods alternately; but on boggy and very rich 
ground, the earth only can be applied with advan- 
tage. The drains should be scoured out yearly on 
very wet ground; and wliat is thrown out is always 
intermixed with the soil in digging; on drier soils 
this is done every second or third year, and on 
very di-y land it is scarcely necessaiT' to do it at 
all. Recruiting the stock by i)lanting, where any 
hills have failed, is done at little cost in well-man- 
aged plantations, as there are seldom many at once 
in those, if there is any couch-grass, it should be 
digged out with three-pronged forks in Marcn, 
and carried oft' the ground. The renewal of poles 
requires from one to two hundred per acre every 
year. If, when t'ae binds first appear, they are 
eaten by slugs, a handful of malt culm, or saw 
dust, is sometimes laid round each hill, which they 
cannot travel over; and should flies or ants attack 
them, soot is the best preventive. The canying 
in and setting catch-poles varies much as to num- 
ber, as some set fewer than one hundred, and 
others five or six hundred per acre. Moving the 
drains and pillars is generally done once, but twice 
moving is better, (whether the grass be made into 
fodder, or is suffered to fall into the drains for 
manure,) as then no seeds scatter on the ground. 
Extra-hoe once before the hilling, and once after. 
After high wmds, many poles are broken down, 
which should be set up again soon. 

JMamire proper for hop-culture. 

As to the manure most proper for the hop-cul- 
ture, good stable dung is much used, and is pre- 
ferred to the manure made by beasts, as the lattei 
encourages ants on strong ground. Woollen rag? 
are the best for forcing a luxuriant bind, and if 
used with judgment, are excellent for clayey 
ground; but they are apt to make the hops small, 
if too many are used. Malt culm, and dove ma- 
nure are excellent, and one complete dressing with 
lime is very serviceable for strong ground. 
'J'o pick hops. 

When the crop is ripe, a proper number of 
pickers are procured, for whom are provided light 
wooden frames, called binges; they are clothed with 
hop-bagging, into which the hops are picked oft' 
the poles by women and children, having them 
brought by men, who take them up by cutting the 
binds about a foot above the ground, and drawing 
up the poles by an instrument called a dragon. 
Each binge has from 4 to 6 pickers, and a man at- 
tends to one or two binges, according to the crop; 
he strips the binds from the poles as Ihey are pick- 
ed, and lays them in heaps ready for stocking; he 
also carries the hops to the kilns, if near; or to a 
cart, as they are measured from the binge. The 
number of binges employed vary with the crop 
and kiln-room; about one to an acre is usual. The 
hops are taken out of the binges with a basket 
which holds 6 Winchester pecks. 
Another mtihod. 

The most convenient way of picking them is 
into a long square frame of wood, with a cloth 
hanging on tenter-liooks within it, to receive the 
hops as they are picked. 

They must be picked very clean, free from leaves 
and stalks; and as there shall be occasion, 2 or 3 
times in a da)', the frame must be emptied into a 
hop bag made of coarse linen cloth, and carried 
immediately to the oast or kiln, in order to be 
dried: for if they should be too long in the bag, 
they will be apt to heat and be discoloured. If the 
weather be hot, there should no more poles be 
drawn than can be picked in an hour, and they 
should be gathered in fair weather, if it can be. 



HUSBANUUY. 



S43 



wid when the hops are (Iry^ this will save some ex- 
pense in firing, and preserve their colour better 
when they are dried. 

To dry hops. 

The best method of drying hops is with char- 
coal on an oast or kiln, covered with hair-cloth of 
the same form and fashion that is used for drying 
malt. The kiln ought to be square, and may be of 
10, 12, 14, or 16 feet over at the top, where the 
hops are laid, as the plantation requires, and the 
room will allow. There ought to be a due pro- 
portion between the heigh: and breadth of the kiln, 
and the beguels of the steddle where the fire is 
kept, viz. if the kiln be 12 feet square on the top, 
it ought to be 9 feet high from tlie fire, and the 
sleddle ought to be 6 feet and a half square, and so 
proportionable in other dimensions. 

The hops must be spread even upon the oast, a 
foot thick or more, if the depth of the curb will 
allow il; but care is to be taken not to overload the 
oast if the hops are green or wet. The oast ought 
to be first warmed with a fire before the hops are 
laid on, and then an even steady fire must be kept 
under them; it must not be too fierce at first, lest it 
scorch them; nor must it be suffered to sink or 
slacken, but rather be increased, till the hops are 
nearly dried, lest the moisture or sweat which the 
fire has raised, fall back or discolour them. 

When they have lain about nine hours they must 
be turned, and in 2 or 3 hours more they may be 
taken off. It may be known when they are well 
dried, by the brittleness of the stalks, and the easy 
falling off of the hop-leaves. 

To bag hops. 

As soon as the hops are taken ofT the kiln, lay 
them in a room for three weeks or a month to cool, 
give, and toughen; for if they are bagged immedi- 
ately they will powder, but if they lie awhile, (and 
the longer they lie the better, provided they are co- 
vered close with blankets to secure them from the 
air), the)' may be bagged with more safety, as not 
being liable to be broken to powder in treading; 
and this will make them bear treading the better, 
and the harder they are trodden the better they 
will keep. 

To dress hops. 

When the ground is dug in January or Februaiy, 
the earth about the hills, and very near them, 
ought to be taken away with the spade. About the 
end of February, if the hops were planted the 
spring before, or if the ground be weak, they 
ought to be dressed in dry weather; but if the 
ground be strong and in perfection, the middle of 
March will be a good time; and if it is apt to pro- 
duce over-rank binds, the beginning of April may 
be soon enough. Then having with an iron 
picker cleared away all the earth out of the hill, so 
as to clear the stock to the principal roots, with a 
sharp knife, cut ofiF all the shoots wliich grew with 
the binds the last year; and also all the young 
suckers, that none may be left to run in the alley, 
and weafeen the hill. It will be proper to cut one 
part of the stock lower than the other, and also to 
cut that pan low that was left highest the preceding 
year. In dressing those hops tliat have been planted 
the year before, cut oft' both the dead tops and the 
young suckers which have sprung up from the 
sets, and also cover the stocks with fine earth, a 
f.nger's length in thickness. 

To pole hops. 

About tlie middle of April the hops are to bo 
poled; when the shoots begin to sprout up, tlie 
poles must be set to the hills deep in the ground, 
with a square iron picker or crow, that they may 
the better endure the wind; three poles are suffi- 
cient for one hill. These should be placed as near 
the hill as possible, with their bending tops turned 



outwards from the hill, to prevent the binds from 

entangling; and a space between two poles ought to 

be left open to the south, to aiimit the sunbeams. 

To tie hops. 

The buds that do not clasp of themselves to the 
nearest pole when they are grown to three or four 
feet high, must bo guided to it by the hand, turn- 
ing them to the sun, whosfc course they will always 
follow. They must be bou,id with withered rushes, 
but not so close as to hinder them from climbing 
up the pole. This continue to do till all the poles 
are furnished witL oinds, of which two or three 
are enough for a pole; and all the sprouts and 
binds that there are no occasion for, are to be 
plucked up; but if the ground is young, then none 
of these useless binds should be plucked up, but 
should be wrapped up together in the middle of 
the hill. 

To gather hops. 

About the beginning of July, hops begin to blow, 
and will be ready for gathering about Bartholo- 
mew-tide. A judgment may be made of their 
ripeness by their strong scent, their hardness, and 
the brownish colour of their seed. When by these 
tokens they appear to be ripe they must be picked 
with all the expedition possible; for if at this time 
a storm of wind should come, it would do them 
great damage, by breaking the branches, and bruis- 
ing and discolouring the hops; and it is very well 
known that hops, being picked green and bright, 
will sell for a third more than those which are 
discoloured. 

7'o cultivate the madder plant. 

The ground is ploughed deep in autumn, and 
again in March; and then laid up in ridges, eight- 
een inches asunder, and about a foot higTi, About 
the beginning of April the ground is opened where 
the old roots are planted, and the side shoots taken 
off, which are transplanted immediately upon the 
new ridges, at about a foot distance, where they re- 
main two seasons; at Michaelmas, when the tops 
of the plants are decayed, the roots are taken up. 
This method of planting in ridges, is only neces- 
sary in wet land. If all the horizontal roots are' 
destroyed from time to time, it will cause the large 
downright roots to be much bigger, in which the 
goodness of tliis plant chiefly consists. After the 
madder roots, the only parts of the plant used by 
dyers, are taken up, tliey are kiln-dried, and then 
reduced to powder by a mill. Previously to the 
grinding they are carefully assorted. 

The fine quality of madder is distinguished by 
its being of a bright, lively, light colour, well 
ground, without acj coarse parts proceeding from 
the peelings. Fresh is always more valuable than 
old madder. It should be kept close to prevent 
the access of air, as its virtue evaporates when ex- 
posed. 

Madder is principally cultivated in Holland, 
Germany, and France, especially the former place, 
where it grows in greater abundance than in any 
other part of the world. The turkey madder root 
is principally cultivated about Smyrna. This plant 
may be propagated either by offsets or seeds. On 
a light thin soil the culture cannot be carried on to 
any profit: that soil in which the plant delights is 
a rich sandy loam, three feet or more in depth. 

The ground being first made smooth, is divided 
into beds four feet wide, with alternate alleys, halt 
as broad again as the beds. In each alley is a shal- 
low channel for irrigating the whole field, &c. that 
that part of the alley that is njt otherwise engaged 
may be sown with legumes. The madder-seed is 
sown broadcast in the proportion of from 25 to 3C 
lbs. per acre about the end of April, lu a fort- 
night or three weeks the young plants begin to 
appear, and from this time to the month ot Sep- 



344 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



tember, care must be taken to keep the ground 
well watered and free frcm weeds. If the plants 
are examined in autumn they will be found to be 
surroundefi with small yellow offsets at the depth 
of two inches, and early in September, the earth 
from- the alleys is to be dug out and laid over the 
plants of madder to the height of two or three 
feet; with this the first year's operation finishes. 

The second year's work begins in May, with 
giving the beds a thorough weeding; and care muat 
be taken to supply them with plenty of water dur- 
ing summer. In September, the first crop of seed 
will be ripe, at which time, the stems of the plants 
may be mown down, and the roots covered a few 
inches with earth, taken as before out of the alleys. 

The weeding should take place as early as possi- 
ble in the spring of the third year; and the crop, 
instead of being left for seeds, may be cut three 
times during summer for green fodder, all kinds of 
cattle being remarkably fond of it. In October, 
the roots are taken up, the off^sets are carefully 
separated, and immediately used to form a new 
plantation; and the roots, after being dried, are sold 
either without further preparation, or ground to a 
coarse powder, and sprinkled with an alkaline ley. 
The roots lose four-fifths of their weight in dry- 
ing, and the produce of an acre is about 2000 lbs. 
of dry saleable madder. 

Use of madder. 

The principal use of madder is in dying. It 
gives out its colour both to water and rectified spi- 
rit; the watery tincture is of a dark dull red; the 
spirituous of a deep bright one. It imparts to 
woollen cloth, prepared with alum and tartar, a 
vei-y durable, though not a very beautiful red dye. 
As it is the cheapest of all red drugs, that give a 
durable colour, it is the principal one commonly 
made use of for ordinary st'iffs. Sometimes its 
dye is heightened by the addition of Brazil-wood, 
and sometimes it is employed in conjunction with 
the dearer reds, as cochineal, for demi-scarlets, 
and demi-crimsons. Madder-root is sometimes 
employed in medicine as an emmenagogue. When 
the madder is given to animals with their food, it 
produces a curious phenomenon, namely, tinging 
their bones with red. The bones of young pigeons 
will be thus tinged of a rose-colour in twenty-four 
hours, and of a deep scarlet in three days; but the 
bones of adult animals will be a fortnight in ac- 
quiring a rose-colour. 

Best method of hay-making. 

Instead of allowing the hay to lie, as usual in 
most places, for some days in the swathe, after it 
is cut, never cut hay but when the grass is quite 
dry; and then make the gatherers follow close 
upon the cutters; put it up immediately into small 
cocks about three feet high each, and of as small a 
diameter as they can be n.ade to stand with; al- 
ways giv'ng each of them a slight kind of thatch- 
ing, by drawing a few handsful of the hay from the 
bottom of the cock all round, and laying it lightly 
ujion the top, with one of the endti hanging down- 
wards. This is done with the utmost ease and ex- 
pedition; and when once in that State, the hay is, 
in a great measure, out of danger; for unless a vio- 
lent wind should arise immediately after the cocks 
are put up, nothing else can hurt the hay; as no rain, 
however violent, can penetrate into these cocks 
but for a very little way; and if they are dry put 
up, they never sit together so closely as to heat; 
although they acqu're, in a day or two, such a de- 
gi'ee of firmness, as to be in no danger of being 
overturned by wind after that time, unless it blows 
a hurricane. 

In these cocks allow the hay to remain until, upon 
nspection, the farmer judges it will keep in pretty 
■arge tramp cocks (which is usually in a week or 



two according as the weather is more or less fa- 
vourable), when two men, each with a long pronged 
pitchfork, lift up one of these small cocks between 
them with the greatest ease, and cai-ry them one 
after another, to the place where the tramp-cock is 
to be built: and in this manner proceed over the 
' field, till the whole is finished. 

JMode of hay-making in Yorkshire. 

Rippling clover or seeds, has been ])ractiseQ 
about forty years, in the neighbourhood of Borough- 
bridge. It is found to answer much better than 
the method of making ii.to cocks. 

The clover is cut, and after it has lain four or 
five days in the swathe, till it is sufficiently dry, 
the hay-maker, with a rake, rolls up a sufficient 
quantity to form a ripple, which is set up in the 
form of a cone. Taking a few of the longest straws, 
he twists them round the top, which forms the 
point of the cone, keeps the ripple compact, and 
shoots off the rain. In taking up the clover from 
the swathe, and forming the ripple, it is necessary 
to keep the upper or dry part inwards: fey that 
means it is much sooner dry, and in a fit state for 
the stack. It is generally necessary for clover to re- 
main 5 or 6 days in the ripple before it is put into 
the stack; but that depends on the state of the 
weather. There is no occasion to untie the rip- 
ples. The method of rippling is not so expensive 
as cocking; it is much superior both in wet and 
dry seasons — not so liable to be injured by the 
wet— much sooner dry, and, of course, of a better 
quality, and more nourishing for cattle. Each 
ripple will weigh, when dry, about 4 or 5 lbs. they 
should not be made too large. Except where 
meadow grass is veiy long it would not be practi- 
cable to ripple it, and is very rarely done in York 
shire. Tiie practice of rippling is simple; attended 
with little trouble or expense; and whenever tried, 
will recommend itself. 

To manage cut grass for hay. 

Grass, when cut for hay, ought to be quickly 
raked, in order that its powers may neither be ex- 
hausted by the sun, nor dissipated by the air. In 
the first sta^'*", small cocks are preferable, and on 
after days, these may be gathered into large ones 
or hand ricks, by which method, the hay is equal- 
ly made, and properly sweetened. After standing 
8 or 10 days in these ricks, according to the nature 
of the weather, hay may be carted home, and built 
in stacks of sufficient size for standing through the 
winter months. 

Importance of strata in husbandry. 

This is a subject that has not hitherto been so 
much attended to as its importance deserves. 

Though many useful observations on straw are 
occasionally introduced in agricultural writings, 
and though its value, as the basis of future crops 
is fully admitted by every intelligent farmer, yet 
the subject has seldom been professedly treated of 
at any length: we shall endeavour, therefore, to 
compress the most important particulars connected 
with it, under the following heads: — 

1. The weight of straw produced on an average 
of the different crops of grain and pulse, per stat- 
ute acre. 

2. The value of the different kinds of sti-aw, 
and 

3. The various uses to which each kind of straw 
is applicable. 

Weight ofstraiu produced by the different crops. 
The quantity of straw per acre, differs according 
to a variety of circumstances; as, I. The species of 
grain, whether wheat, barley, oats, &c.; 2. The dif- 
ferere: kinds of the same grain; 3. The season (for 
in dry seasons the quantity is less than in moist); 
4. The soil, for in fertile soils the straw is more 
abundant than in poor ones; 5. The season when 



HUSBANDRY 



345 



the sck'd is sown, for spring sown wheat has less 
sti'aw than the winter sown; and, 6. The manner 
in which the straw is cut, for an inch or two at the 
root-end of the straw makes a great addition to the 
dunghill. 

From a statement by Mr Young, it would appear, 
that the average produce, in straw, of all the dif- 
ferent crops, stubble included, may be calculated at 
1 ton, 7 cwt. per English acre; but that is rejecting 
the weaker soils. 

It is calculated by Mr Brown, of Markle, that 
on an average of years, the produce of straw in 
good land, and under tolerable management, will 
be nearly in the following proportion, per English 
acre: 







Stones. 


Wheat, 




160 


Beans and 


peas. 


130 


Oats, 
Barley, 




130 

100 



Total 520 

Or, at an average of these crops, 130 stone per 
acre, 22 lbs. avoirdupois, per stone; in all 2860 lbs. 
or 1 ton, 5 cwt. 2 quarters and 4 lbs. 

It may be safely estimated, that on an average of 
years, well cultivated and fertile soils, when the 
crop is carefully cut down, will annually produce, 
on the average of the crops above mentioned, and 
taking the average of the kingdom, 1 ton, 5 cwt. 
per English acre. 

Value of the different kinds of straw. 

The intrinsic value of straw must vary materi- 
ally, according to its leading properties, the quan- 
tity of manure into which it may be converted by 
littering, or its fitness to be employed as thutch, 
these being the chief uses to which it is applica- 
ble; but, in general, its price depends on its vicinity 
to large towns. It is only in situations where 
foreign manure can be procured easily, and at a 
cheaper rate than by converting the straw raised 
upon the farm into dung, that the sale of straw is 
ever permitted. Straw is generally dearer in Lon- 
don, and its neighbourhood, than in any other part 
of the kingdom. It is sold there by the load, 
which consists of 36 trusses, of 36 lbs. each, or 
1296 lbs. in all. Two loads of wheat-straw per 
acre are reckoned a tolerable crop. 

As straw is rarely permitted to be sold, being 
usually employed iu maintaining winter stock, the 
real value of the article, to the farmer, is but in- 
considerable, depecding upon the quantity and 
quality of the dung it produces. So little is it 
thought necessary accurately to ascertain the value 
of straw, that in several cases it has been given by 
the outgoing to the incoming lenant, as an equiva- 
lent for the expense of harvesting, thrashing, and 
marketing the last crop. It is often thought in- 
sufficient to cover even that expense, and a farther 
abatement is allowed on the price of the grain. 

Various purposes to -uiMch straw is applicable. 

The subject of feeding with straw will be better 
understood by considering the specific properties 
of the difierent kinds of straw employed in feed- 
ing stock, and the rules that ought to be observed 
when stock are fed with that material. 
Wheat straw. 

This kind of straw, from its strength, is con- 
sidered to be peculiarly calculated both for litter 
and thrashing; and, indeed, wherever the practice 
of cutting straw into chaflj for mixing with corn 
for horses, prevails, wheat straw is preferred. 
When given to cattle or horses, itissoinetim:iscut 
into chaff, and either given raw in that state, or, 
what is greatly preferred, steamed with other food, 
in particular with potatoes. 

In order to improve wheat straw as fodder, it is 
2 T 



the practice, in some parts of England, to cut the 
grain rather greener than in Scotland, which pre- 
serves more of the natural juices, and consequently 
makes the fodder better. Some of the best farmers 
were accustomed to cut wheat much earlier th^iu 
common in their respective , districts. One of 
these was a miller in Norfolk, who occupied a large 
farm, where he always cut his wheat several days 
before any one else thought of beginning, well 
knowing the good consequences in the value of the 
grain. It must also be less apt to be injured by 
shaking or harvesting. 

Oat straw. 

Among the culraiferous grains, the straw of the 
oat is considered to be tlie best jfodder, when given 
uncut. It is well known, indeed, that oat straw, 
during the winter season, is almost universally 
given instead of hay, in all the best cultivated 
counties of Scotland, during the winter months, 
though that of 7>eas and beans is certainly pre- 
ferred where both are grown. 

In some districts farmers cut oats in the straw 
into a species of fodder, which is called "cut 
meat." This is given not only to horses, but to 
cattle, especially fattening cattle. It is thought to 
give not only fatness but a fineness of skin to all 
sorts of stock. 

JBean straw. 

If well harvested, this straw forms a very hearty 
and nutritious kind of food for cattle in the winter 
season, Both oxen and horses, when duly supplied 
with oats, in proportion to the work they have to 
execute, thrive well on it; and the reduced parts, 
or what is termed in England the coving-chaff, 
is found valuable, as a manger food, for the labour- 
ing teams; when blended with other substances, it 
is probable that, in particular cases, the stems 
might be cut into chaff with advantage; but when 
made use of in these methods, it should be used as 
fresh as possible after being thrashed. A mixture 
of bean straw, (which by itself is rather dry,) and 
of peas-haum, which is sweet and nourishing, 
wakes excellent fodder. 

But though this straw, more especially when 
mixed with peas-haum, is of great value aTs fodder 
to the working stock of the farm, it does not suit 
well with riding-horses, as it is apt to hurt their 
wind. In some horses, both bean-straw and peas- 
haum are apt to occasion colic pains, or the dis- 
ease which is provincially called botts, probably oc- 
casioned by flatulency. For this disease, aoout 
half an ounce, or a table-spoonful of laudanum, is 
found to be a good remedy. 

Peas straw. 

In Scotland, the haum of peas is used as fodder 
for working-horses instead of hay; and wnen well 
harvested, forms a very excellent provender, inso- 
much that it is considered to be of almost equal 
value to the grain itself. 

Tare-straw or hay. 

This is an article strongly recommended by some 
farmers; for when the land has been dunged, ard 
the seed good, the produce is considerablt;. The 
crop should be cut as soon as the blossoms begin to 
fall off, or the pods to form; and the whole, convert- 
ed into hay-tares, require a great deal of sun to 
cure, and i-ain is very injurious to them, h would 
be a good plan to mix them with dry straw, which 
would improve both. 

Rules regarding the consumption of straw in feed- 
ing cattL. 

Straw is much used in \he feeding of cp.ttle in 
Scotland; and, there can be no doubt that oxen will 
feed well on straw and turnips, if the straw be good. 
It is recommended, in all cases, that for a mouth 
or six weeks after a bullock is put to turnips, straw 
only should be given with them. But in the more 



546 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



advanced siages of fattening, hay is so much supe- 
rior, that it should if possible be supplied. It is 
rertain, at the same time, that hay is a vei7 expen- 
sive food for stock, and ought to be saved as much 
as possible where it can prudently be done. It is 
well known that a full allowance of turnips and 
straw, during the winter months, will latten better 
than a small allowance of hay in place of the straw. 
In the spring hay, which retains its nutritive juices 
longer than straw, is much more valuable, both for 
fattening stock and feeding horses; and it is there- 
fore the practice to reserve hay for abjut three 
months' consumption of these kinds of stock, and 
for no others. 

liules for feedinp horses -with strain. 

In regard to horses, they seldom get any hay for 
three months in winter; but with straw and the 
corn, wJiich must always be given them, whether 
they get straw or hay, they not only plough three- 
fourths of an English acre per day, or work from 
seven to eight hours at other labour, but are actu- 
ally full of flesh and vigour when sowing commen- 
ces. They must, however, have hay instead of 
straw, when the severe labour of spring takes 
place. 

When, therefore, farmers' horses are so much 
reduced in condition as to be unable to go through 
the severe labour of spring, it is owing to their 
not having got a sufficient quantity cf corn. Peas 
and bean-straw certainly make the best fodder, 
when not injured by rain; but if that kind of straw 
is damaged in harvest, white straw is to be pre- 
ferred. 

Jiide? for feedijig sheep -with straiv. 

There is no food of which sheep are fonder than 
peas-straw. The soil of the pastoral districts in 
Scotland, being rarely of a kind calculated for 
peas, any extensive cultivation of that grain is im- 
practicable; but where circumstances are favoura- 
ble to that crop, peas ought to be cultivated, were 
it merely for the straw, as it would enable the store- 
farmers to carry on their system of sheep-farming 
with much more advantage. Indeed, the same 
plan migh* be advisable in other districts. It might 
be proper to add, that for ewes at yeaning time, 
lentil-hay is better than tare-hay or even peas- 
fiaum. 

Miscellaneous rules mid observations regarding the 
cojisnmption of straw. 

On turnip farms in Scotland, it is the usual prac- 
tice to feed horses till March, where the labour is 
not severe, and cows through the winter, witli oat- 
straw, whilst the fattening and straw-yard cattle 
get the straw of wheat and barley. If any peas or 
beans be cultivated on the farm, that straw being 
given to the horses, a part of the oat-straw may be 
left for the fattening and strr.w-yard cattle. Upon 
turnip farms, it is not thought profitable to cut the 
greater part of the clovers for hay. These are usual- 
ly eaten by sheep, and no more hay saved, than what 
may serve the horses, cows, and fattening stock, for 
eight or ten weeks, immediately before grass, with 
a small quantity occasionally given to the sheep fed 
on turnips. 

Tiie expense of feeding even the horses alone, 
for eight months, on haj', would be more than a 
farmer can well afford; at the same time it is a rule 
with the best farmers, to give hay to their horses 
in the early part of winter; then peas or bean straw, 
till seed-time commences in the spring; and after- 
wards hay. 

Str&iv keeps much better unthrashed, in a large 
stack, man in a barn. Straw in general, more es- 
pecially white straw, is found to lose its value as 
fodder, in whatever way it may be kept, after the 
sharp dry breezes of the spring months have set in. 

It is a general rule, that straw, when intended to 



be used as food for stock, should be given, as 
speedily as possible, after it is thrashed. 'I'he 
thrashing separates and exposes it so much, that if 
kept long, it is, comparatively speaking, of little 
value as fodder. Lisle, an intelligent writer on 
agriculture, and a practical farmer, states, that he 
found cows did not eat straw so well on a Monday 
morning, as they did the rest of the week, because 
the straw was not fresh from the flail. Straw, 
therefore, should be constantly made use of, as 
soon after it is thrashed as possible; for by keep- 
ing, it becomes either musty, or too dry, and cat- 
tle do not eat it, nor thrive on it so well. It can- 
not be doubted that air has a very injurious effect 
upon all kinds of fodder, and the more it can be 
kept from the influence of the sun and the atmos- 
phere, so much the better. It is seldom given as 
fodder, unless to straw-yard cattle, after the month 
of March. 

When clover is sown with grain crops, the clover 
has often arrived at such a length, as to mix with 
the straw in cutting the crop. This certainly im- 
proves the straw in good harvests; but as little clo- 
ver as possible should be cut with the straw, as it 
makes it very difficult to secure the crop, unless it 
be left upon the ground for several days. 
Straiv as applicable to litter. 
Straw, when mixed with the dung and the urine 
of cattle, horses, &c. &c. is a rich and excellent 
manure; but even alone, when ploughed in, or de- 
composed by pure simple water, it is of use. All 
the various sorts of straw answer the purposes of 
litter. Some farmers contend that rye straw is the 
best litter; others prefer the straw of wheat, which 
absorbs, it is said, so much urine and moisture, 
that a cart of wheat straw is supposed equal in value 
to three carts of well made dung. In England, th-j 
straw of peas and beans is extremely valuable, 
forming, it is said, when well broken by thrashing, 
a desirable litter for working horses, hogs, and 
other stock; but in Scotland, it is never used as 
litter, unless it has been spoilt by bad management, 
or a most unseasonable season in harvest, as its 
feeding properties are there so well known. Lit- 
tering is of use, not only for converting straw into 
manure, but for keeping the animals warm and dry. 
In fact, cattle cannot be soiled on clover, or fed on 
turnips, without abundance of litter. 

There are four modes of converting straw into 
dung, by littering stock: — I. In stalls or stables; 
2. In hammels; 3. In fold-yards; and 4. In open 
folds, where sheep are littered with straw. 

The quantity of dung produced from a given 
quantity of straw, depends a good deal upon the 
kind of straw that is used (as some kinds absorb 
much more moisture than others), and upon the 
degree of care employed in preparing the dung. 
Speaking generally, the original weiglit Ci straw 
may be tripled, if the manufacturing process be 
properly conducted, and the dung applied to the 
ground before its powers are lessened or exhausted. 
The quantity of dung which may be made from an 
acre, especially if the dung arising from clover, 
turnips, and hay, consumed on a farm, is included 
in the general stock, will be something more than 
four tons; consequently, any farm of decent soil 
may be manured at the rate of 12 tons per acre, 
every third year, from its own produce, provided 
the corn crops are cut with accuracy, and the straw 
manufactured into dung, in a husbandraan-liku 
manner. 

Straiv as applicable to thatching. 
For many ages straw was the common material 
for roofing farm-buildings and cottages, and was 
formerly made use of even in towns. The expense 
of a thatched roof is not great, in so far as respects 
labour; and the value of the straw is, to the grower 



HUSBANDRY. 



347 



either the price he could obtain for it, or that of 
the dung that could be made from it, as the kind 
used tbr thatch is seldom used as fodder. Where 
economy must be attended to in the building of 
cottages, straw is taken as the least costly material; 
but in these days, when manure is so extremely 
valuable, as little straw as possible should be spared 
for other purposes. 

The durability of a thatched roof is likewise 
maintained. A good coat of thatch will need very 
little repair during an ordinary lease. But cave 
must be taken that the straw is very clean thrashed. 
If it is not, the grain left will soon spring, and in- 
troduce putrefaction, and encourage vermin. The 
thrashing mill renders straw less fit for thatch than 
when it is. thrashed by the flail. 

In Somersetshire, wheat is seldom thrashed with 
the straw, but the ears are cut off, and the straw, 
bound in sheaves, and tied very tight, is used for 
thatching. 

Miscellaneous uses of strew. 

It is well known that various articles are manu- 
factured from straw, such as bonnets, and Other or- 
naments for the ladies. Even in the remote county 
of Caithness, the straw manufacture is carried on. 
The straw is prepared in London, and the plait is 
returned to that market. Straw-plaiting is the 
principal manufacture iff Bedfordshire. The quan- 
tity thus used is very considerable, and it furnishes 
employment for numbers of persons who might 
otherwise with difficulty find the means of subsist- 
ence. 

In some districts straw mixed with clay is used 
for building the walls of houses or gardens, and 
with the same mixture for the roofs of houses, in- 
stead of the common mode of thatching. 

In districts on the sea-shore, it is common for 
experienced farmers to keep in reserve a conside- 
rable proportion of their wheat or barley straw, and 
to make it into a dunghill, alternately with the sea- 
wsre, stratum upon stratum, till both are exhausted. 
This is an excellent plan, where the sea-weed can- 
not be immediately applied; but it is the best sys- 
tem to plough it in, when obtained. 

Near Gloucester great quantities of bean-haum, 
as well as common straw, are bought up at a potash 
manufactory, and burnt for the ashes. 

Straw is also used for stutiing beds. For that 
purpose, the chaff of oats is found to be a material 
not much inferior to ordinary feathers; and being 
so inuch cheaper, chaff beds are almost universally 
used by the lower orders in Scotland. 

Another purpose to which straw is applied, is 
that of packing; and it is proper to observe, that 
the quantity used in packing china and stoneware, 
in the districts where these manufactories prevail, 
as in Staffordshire, is found to be a serious injury 
to the farmer. 

The most recent discovery, connected with any 
straw production, is that of the Rev, James Hall, 
who has ascertained that every bean-stalk, accord- 
ing to Its size, contains from 20 to 35 filaments, 
which are of a nature among the strongest, and 
most durable hitherto discovered. He calculates 
that on an average there are about 200 lbs. weight 
of such filaments on an acre, capable of being ap- 
plied to various useful purposes, where durability 
and strength, rather than fineness and delicacy, are 
required. 

To under-drain clay lands. 

This operation is always best performed in spring 
or summer, when the ground is dry. Main drains 
ought to be made in eveiy part of the field where 
a cross-cut or open drain was formerly wanted; 
they ought to be cut four feet deep, upon an ave- 
rr^e. This completely secures them from the pos- 
sibility of being damaged by the treading of hor- 



ses or cattle, and being so far below the small 
drains, dear the water finely out of them. In evei-j 
situation, pipe-turfs for the niain drain, if they 
can be had, are preferable. If good stiff clay, a 
single row of pipe-turf; if sandy, a double row. 
When pipe-turf cannot be got conveniently, a good 
wedge-drain may answer well, when the sub-soil 
is a strong, stiff clay; but if the sub-soil be only 
moderately so, a thorn-drain, with couples below, 
will do still better; and if the sub-soil is very sandy, 
except pipes can be had, it is in vain to attempt 
under-draining the field by any other method. It 
may be necessary to mention liere, that the size of 
the main drains ought to be regulated according to 
the length and declivity of the run, and the quan- 
tity of water to be carried off by them. It is al- 
ways safe, however to have the main drains large, 
and plenty of them; for economy here seldom 
turns out well. 

Having finished the main drains, proceed next 
to make a small drain in every furrow of the field, 
if the ridges formerly have not been less than 15 
feet wide. But if that should be the case, first 
level the ridges, and make the drains in the best 
direction, and at such a distance from each other 
as may be thought necessary. If the water rises 
well in the bottom of the drains, they ought to be 
cut three feet deep; and in this case would dry the 
field sufficiently well, although they were from 25 
to 30 feet asunder; but if the water does not draw 
well to the bottom of the drains, two feet will be a 
sufficient deepness for. the pipe drain, and 2^ feet 
for the wedge drain. In no case ought they to be 
shallower where the field has been previously lev- 
elled. In this instance, however, as the surface 
water is carried off chiefly by the water sinking 
immediately into the top of the drains, it will Lvi 
necessary to have the drains much nearer each 
other — say from 15 to 20 feet. If the ridges are 
more than 15 feet wide, however broad and irregu- 
lar they may have been, follow invariably the line 
of the old furrows, as the best direction for the 
drains; and, where they are high-gathered ridges, 
from 20 to 24 inches will be a sufficient depth for 
the pipe-drain, and from 24 to 30 inches for the 
wedge-drain. Pai-ticular care should be taken in 
connecting the small and main drains together, so 
as the water may have a gentle declivity, with free 
access into the main drains. 

When the drains are finished, the i-idges are 
cleaved down upon the drains by the plough; and 
where they had been very high formerly, a second 
clearing may be given; but it is belter not to level 
the ridges too much, for by allowing them to re- 
tain a little of their former shape, the ground being 
lowest immediately where the drains are, the sur- 
face water collects upon the top of the drains; and, 
by shrinking into them, gets freely away. After 
the field is thus finished, run the new ridges across 
the small drains, making them about nine or ten 
feet broad, and continue afterwards to plough the 
field in the same manner as dry land. 

It is evident from the above method of draining, 
that the expense will vary very much, according to 
the quantity of main drains necessary for the field, 
the distance of the small drains from each other, 
and the distance the turf is to be carried. In gene- 
ral, when the drains are about 20 feet asunder, the 
cost will be about '2U 2s. per acre, for cutting, &c., 
and VI. Is. per acre for cartage of turf. 

The advantage resulting from under-draining, is 
very great; for besides a considerable saving annu- 
allj^ of water furrowing, cross cutting, &c. the land 
can often be ploughed and sown to advantage, both 
in the spring and in the fall of the year, when other- 
wise it would be found quite impracticable; every 
species of drilled crop, such as beans, potatoes, 



348 



LTNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



turnips, &c. can be cultivated successfully; and 
every species, both of gi'een and white crops, is 
less apt to fail ia wet and untoward seasons. 
To drain lands. 

Wherever a burst of water appears in any parti- 
cular spot, the sure and certain way of getting quit 
of such an evil is tn dig hollow drains, to such a 
depth below the surface as is required by the fall 
or level that can be gained, and by the quantity of 
water expected to proceed from the burst or 
spring. Having ascertained the extent of water to 
be carried off, taken the necessary levels, and 
cleared a mouth, or leading passage for the water, 
begin the drain at the extremity next to that 
leader, and go on with the work till the top of the 
spring is touched, which probably will accomplish 
the intended object. But if it should not be com- 
pletely accomplished, run off from the main drain 
with such a number of brandies, as may be required 
to intercept the water, and, in this way, disap- 
pointment will hardly be experienced. Drains, to 
be substantially useful, shouL^. seldom be less tban 
three feet in depth, twenty or twenty-four inches 
thereof to be close packed with stones or wood, 
according to circumstances. The former are the 
best materials, but in many places are not to be 
got in sufficient quantities; recourse, therefore, 
must often be made to the latter, enough not so 
effectual or durable. 

It is of vast importance to fill up drains as fast 
as they are dug out; because, if left open for any 
length of time, the earth is not only apt to fall in, 
but the sides get into a broken, irregular state, 
which cannot afterwards be completely rectified. 
It also deserves attention, that a proper covering 
CX straw or sod should be put upon the top of the 
materials, to keep the surface earth from mixing 
with them; and where wood is the material used 
for filling up, a double degree of attention is ne- 
cessary, otherwise the proposed improvement may 
be effectually frustrated. 

Pit draining. 

The pit method of draining is a very effectual 
one, if executed with judgment. When it is suffi- 
ciently ascertained where the bed of water is de- 
posited, which can easily be done by boring with 
an auger, sink a pit into the place, of a size whix/h 
will allow a man freely to work within its bounds. 
Dig this pit of such a depth as to reach the bed of 
the water meant to be carried off; and when this 
depth is attained, which is easily discerned by 
the rising of the water, fill up the pit with great 
land-stones, and carry oft' the water by a stout drain 
to some adjoining ditch or mouth, whence it may 
proceed to the nearest river. 

JMr Baylet/'s directions for draining land. 

First make tlie main drains down the slope pr 
fall of the field. When the land is \cry wet, or 
has not much fall, there should in general be two 
of these to a statute acre; for the shorter the nar- 
row drains are, the less liable they are to acci- 
dents. The width of the trench for the main 
drains should be thirty inches at tep, but the width 
at the bottom must be regulated by the nature and 
size of the materials to be used. If the drain is to 
be made of bricks ten inches long, three inches 
thick, and four inches in breadth, then the bottom 
)f the drain must be twelve inches: but if the com- 
mon sale bricks are used, then the bottom must be 
proportionably contracted. In both cases there 
must be an interstice of one inch between the bot- 
tom bricks and the sides of the trench, and the va- 
cuity must be filled up with straw, rushes, or loose 
mould. For the purpose of making these drains, 
the bricks should be moulded ten inches long, 
four broad, and three thick; which dimensions 
always make the best drain. 



To construct main drains. 

When the ground is soft and spongy, the botforp 
of the drain is laid with bricks placed across. On 
these, on each side, two bricks are laid flat, one 
upon the other, forming a drain six inches high, 
and four broad, which is covered with bricks laid 
flat. When stones are used instead of bricks, the 
bottom of the drain should be about eight inches 
in width; and in all cases the bottom of main 
drains ought to be sunk four inches below the 
level of the narrow ones, whose contents they re- 
ceive, even at the point where the latter fall into 
thrm. 

The main drains should be kept open or unco- 
vered till the narrow ones are begun from them, 
after which they mav be finished; but before the 
earth is returned upon the stones or bricks, it is 
advisable to throw in straw, rushes, or brushwood, 
to increase the freedom of the drain. The small 
narrow drains should be cut at the distance of six- 
teen or eighteen feet from each other, and should 
fall into the main drain at very acute angles, tJ 
prevent any stoppage. At the point where they 
fall in, and eight or ten inches above it, they should 
be made firm with brick or stone. These drains 
should be eighteen inches wide at the top, and six- 
teen at bottom. 

To Jill drains. 

The completest method yet known, is to cut the 
strongest willows, or other aquatic brushwood, 
into lengths of about twenty inches, and place 
them alternately in the drain, with one end against 
one side of the bottom, and tiie other leaning 
against the opposite side. Having placed the 
strong wood in this manner, fill up the space be- 
tween them, on the upper side, with the small 
brush Wood, upon which a few rushes or straw 
being laid, as before mentioned, the work is done. 
Willow, alder, asp, or beach boughs, are exceed- 
ingly durable if put into the drain green, or before 
the sap is dried; but if they are suffered to beco!'-.e 
dry, and then laid under ground, a rapid decay is 
the consequence. 

As in some situations it is an object of great "m- 
portance to save the expense of materials commonly 
used in filling drains, a variety of devices have, 
with that view, been adopted. One of these, is of 
the following nature: A drain is first dug to tlie 
necessary depth, narrow at bottom. Into the trench 
is laid a smooth tree, or cylindrical piece of wood, 
twelve feet long; six inches diameter at the one end, 
and five at tlie other, having a ring fastened into 
the thickest end. After strewing a little sand upon 
the ujiper side of the tree, the clay, or toughest 
part of the contents of the trench, is first thrown 
in upon it, and after that the remainder of the 
earth is fully trodden down. By means through 
the ring, the tree is then drawn out to within a 
foot or two of the smaller or hinder end; and the 
same operation is repeated till the whole drain is 
complete. Such a drain is said to have conducted 
a small run of water a considerable way under 
ground for more than twenty years, without any 
sign ot failure. 

To -water meadows. 

The water should be set on in the month of Oc- 
tober; and also as early in that month as possible. 
The effects of this watering are very important in 
strengthening the roots and stalks of the plants, 
and preparing them for shooting up strong and vi- 
gorous, next spring; and the blades that now rise, 
form a rough coat against winter, protecting the 
vital powers of the plants from the seve: ity of that 
season. It sometimes happens,, also, that by de- 
laying the watering process too long, early frosts 
supervene, and very much impede or prevent the 
operation. The floods of autuma are very earich 



HUSBANDRY. 



349 



ing to meadows; but thJsr benefit is lost sight of, to 
a ceitain degree, when the process of watering is 
delayed too long. Inc^eed the latter pasturage of 
Tneaiiows may genera^iy be consumed early in Oc- 
tober; and what may then remain is of no impor- 
tance, compared with the advantages to be derived 
from early watering. Besides, if the meadow must 
be watered in separate divisions, and at different 
periods, it must happen, that by delaying the ope- 
ration till November,some partsoftlie meadow may 
receive no water sooner than December or Janu- 
ary; and if these months are very severe, it may 
be wliolly impracticable to complete the process at 
that season. 

If the land is fine and rich, it will generally be 
found, that three weeks may be sufficient for the 
first turn; if sour and coarse, four weeks may be 
necessary. The verdure will then be fine, and the 
soil rich and yielding. If scum appear on the 
grass, the water must be instantly removed. 

Sliould the water not overflow properly, stops 
must be placed in the small feeders. These are 
either of stones or stakes, either of which are firm 
and durable. Sods rise and float away, and boards 
are seldom firm enough, though at times they may 
answer well. If the water, after all, does not flow 
properly over, notches must be cut, in order to 
make passages for it. 

Separate divisions of meadow occupy the water 
in succession throughout winter; during which, 
they ought all to have received one turn of the wa- 
ter, as above recommended, if not given in later 
than autumn. 

In severe frosts, it is not very safe to remove the 
water, as it operates so far to protect the grass; and 
if exposed wet to frost, it might be greatly in- 
jured. If it be necessary to alter the water in 
such weather, let it be done in the morning of a 
dry day. 

In spring every division of the meadow requires 
to be again watered; and the fine rich verdure that 
appeals, with the soft unctuous tread of the soil, 
are indications of advantage being obtained; but the 
appearance of a white scum warns the floater in- 
stantly to remove the water. 

To form inclosures. 

Inclosures, with some trifling exceptions, are 
/ormed in Great Britain by building stone walls, or 
planting thurn hedges. According to the first me- 
thod, tlie walls are either of dry stone, or of stone 
and lime; and in the last instance lime is either 
used only in bedding tlie outward part of the wall, 
or applied to the whole of it, as circumstances may 
render necessary. These walls are either coped 
with sod, or have a cope which tapers to the top, 
elosely built with stone and lime, or the coping is 
executed witli large irregular stones, according to 
the taste and dis|)ositions of the persons by whom 
they are erected. A wall built with stone and 
lime is undoubtedly the preferable fence; but the 
exi)ense far exceeds the value of the interest which 
a tenant generally has in the premises. Such walls 
ouglit, therefore, in every case, to be erected by 
the proprietor, who thus increases the value of iiis 
properly, in a direct proportion w'th the increased 
value given to the land, by the erection of such 
feitces. 

To render a stone wall useful as a fence, its 
height ought never to be less than 5 feet, 3 inches, 
otherwise it will not keep in many of 'he breeds 
of sheep which prevail in the country. In erecting 
the fence, great care ought to be taken to bui'id 
upon a solid foundation, otherwise tlie wall is apt 
to incline to a side, and gradually to fall down. 
The coping should be made close; for if the wa.er 
gels down the inside of the wall, i: will bulge out, 
and finally go to ruin 



To plant thorn hedges. 

When a thorn hedge is to be planted, it is of 
advantage to fallow the ground a year before hand; 
and if the soil is poor, to dress it with dung, so that 
the young plants may not be oppressed with weeds, 
or stunted for want of food, when weak and una- 
ble to send forth their fibres in search of nourish- 
ment. These things being attended to, and the 
hedge planted, an ar.nual cleaning ought to be 
given; sometimes two cleanings are necessary be- 
fore the hedge will thrive. It is also necessary to 
fence it at the back with paling, that beasts may be 
restrained from going over it, and to switch it over 
when 2 or 3 years of age, in order that it may be 
kept close at the bottom. 

As the hedge grows up, repeated cuttings are 
necessary, so that a wide bottom may be gained, 
without which no hedge can be considered as a 
suitable fence; and some attention is required to 
give a proper shape to the top. which is a matter 
of much importance to the welfare of the hedge. 
When thorns are allowed to grow to unequal 
heights, the strong plants are sure to smother the 
weak ones; and when the hedge 'becomes broad at 
the top, it retains water and snow to the great injury 
of the i)lant. \11 these evils n\ay be avoided by 
proper management: though 12 years must elapse 
before the best-managed hedge can be considered 
as a sufficient fence. 

To protect young thorn hedges. 

The expenses of protecting young hedges from 
cattle, by paling and railing, have always appeared 
to be too great, and, at the same time, an unne- 
cessary oonsumption of wood and nails. It occur- 
red to Mr Moore, steward to the Marquis of Bute, 
that a more economical protection might be effect- 
ed, by forming a small earthen dike upon the side 
of the ditch, opposite the line of thorns, suflSciently 
high to prevent cattle getting into the ditch. Ac- 
cordingly, some years ago, he tried the experiment, 
and found it completely to answer his expecta- 
tion. 

The materials of this sort of protection being 
always on the ground, it is attended with no ex- 
pense but the workmanship, and the want of the 
use of the land occupied by this small ditch, for 
the time required, will be much more than com- 
pensated by the saving of paling, railing, work- 
manship, and nails. Mr Moore has also practised 
with success, in parts where dead thorns, or brush 
for cocking, are scarce, the placing of stones across 
the top of ihe dike, instead of the usual cocking. 
Those stones, after having served their purpose, 
will be useful for drains or dikes where improve- 
ments are carrying on. 

To form a plantation. 

When a plantation of timber is to be formed, 
the first step necessary is to fonce the ground that 
is to be planted, so that cattle of all kinds may be 
kept from making inroads. The ground to be 
planted ought to be completely fallowed on the 
preceding year, and, if in a rough or waste state, 
two years tallowing will be useful. If wet or bog- 
gy, open drains are to be dug through all the hol- 
low places, so that superfluous moisture may be 
! removed. I'hese operations being per.'brmed, the 
planting may 4)roceed, in executing which great 
care should be taken to make the pits of a proper 
size; and, in filling them up, that the best earth 
be returned nearest the roots. A mixture of tim- 
ber, in the same plantation, is always advantageous, 
and thick planting is eligible for the purpose of 
aff"ording shelter. As the plantation gels forward 
attention must be paid to thinning and pruning 
the trees, removing always those first that are 
eithe'- sickly or debilitiited; and, in this way, and 
bv exercising constant attention in the management, 

2 E 



.S60 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



timber trees will advance with double rapidity, 
than when neglected and overlooked. 

Much ex;)enseis often incurred in planting trees, 
which is afterwards lost by neglecting to train them 
up. Trees indeed are, in most cases, put into 
the earth, and then left to themselves, to grow or 
die; whereas with them, as with all other plants, 
the fostering hand of man is indispensably called 
for in every stage of growth, otherwise they will 
rarely arrive at perfection, or make that return to 
the owner which may b*^ .'easonably expected, 
when the several processes of planting, pruning, 
and thinning, are duly exercised. 

Planting trees in hedge-rows is not only preju- 
dicial to fences, bui of great detriment to corn 
crops cultivated in fields surrounded by these 
hedge-rows, especially if the fields are of a small 
size. If shelter is wanted for a field, the best way 
of procuring it is to form belts, or strips of plant- 
ing, from 50 to 60 feet wide; for timber trees 
thrive much better than when planted in rows, or 
narrow strips. All cold, or moorish, soils are 
greatly benefited by being inclosed in this way; 
though it may be remarked, that small inclosures 
ought to be avoided, because they occasion a great 
waste of ground without affording a benefit in other 
respects proportioned to the heavy expense en- 
tailed upon the proprietor or tenant, for supporting 
such a number of unnecessary fences. 

The best method of raising oaks. 

The Dutchess of Rutland has received the gold 
medal of the Society for the encouragement of 
Arts, Manufactures, and Commerce, for experi- 
ments in raising oaks. After five several experi- 
ments, her grace is of opinion that the best method 
is, " to sow the acorns where they are to remain, 
and, after hoeing the rows two years, to plant po- 
tatoes, one row only between each row of oaks, 
for three years. The benefit to the oaks from 
planting potatoes is incalculable; for, from the 
said experiments, and from others made at the 
same time, and with the same seedling oaks, plant- 
ed with a mixture of larch, spruce, beech, birch, 
and other forest trees, and also with oaks only — in 
all cases she has found that potatoes between the 
rows are so superior to all other methods, that the 
oaks will actually grow as much the first four years 
witli them, as in six without them. "It appears," 
she observes, "that the great secret in raising 
plantations of oaks is, to get them to advance ra- 
pidly the first 8 years from seed, or the first 5 years 
from planting, so as the heads of the trees are 
completely united, and become a smothering crop; 
after this is effected, the trees will appear to strive 
to outgrow each other, and will advance in height 
rapidly; they will be clean straight trees, to any 
given height: experiments have proved the fact, 
which may be verified by viewing Belvoir." 



DIRECTIONS FOR THE REARING 0?SILK 
WORMS. 

Procure eggs in February and March, and 
choose those of a pale slate or clay colour; avoid 
all which aie yellow, as they are imperfect. Keep 
them in a cold dry place, (where water will, how- 
ever, not freeze,) until the leaf buds of the mul- 
berry begin to swell. If the eggs be soiled, dip 
the paper or cloth to which they adhere, in water 
once or twice, to wash off the coat with which 
they are covered, and which will impede the hatch- 
ing of the worms. It is not uecessary to scrape 
oft" the eggs from the paper or cloth on which they 
have been deposited. Dry them quickly in a 
draught of air, and put them in one or more shal- 



low boxes, lined with paper; which place, if pos- 
sible, in a small room, of the temperature of 64°, 
and keep it up to that degree for the two first days, 
by means of a fire in the chl.-nney, or still better, 
in a brick, tile, or porcelain stove; or for want of 
these in an Iron stove; and use tanners' waste-bark, 
turf, or charcoal for fuel, to promote and keep up 
a regular heat day and night. The third day in- 
crease the heat to 66°, the fourth to 68°, the fifth 
to 71°, the sixth to 73°, the seventh to 75°, the 
eighth to 77°, the ninth to 80°, the tenth, eleventh 
and twelfth to 82°. It is impossible to expect re- 
gularity in hatching, if reliance be placed upon 
our variable weather; and it is the regularity ot the 
worms coming forth, which will ensure their uni- 
form growth, save much trouble in feeding and 
attending those of various- ages, and cause the 
whole, or the greater part, to form their cocoons 
at the same time, provided proper care be given 
during their progress. 

When the eggs assume a whitish hue, the worm 
is formed: cover the eggs with white paper, (never 
use a newspaper) pierced full of holes, the size of 
a large knitting needle; the worms, when hatched, 
will creep through them; turn up the edges of the 
paper to prevent their crawling off. Lay twigs of 
the mulberry, having two or three dry and young 
leaves on the paper, to collect the worms, and 
more as they continue to mount. For want of 
mulberry leaves, feed for a short time upon lettuce 
leaves perfectly dry; if large, they should be cut 
in strips, and the mid-rib thrown away: or, still 
better, feed with the twigs of the white mulberry 
tree cut rp fine. The worms first hatched are the 
strongest; nevertheless, if only a few come out on 
the first day, give them away, to save trouble, and 
depend upon those which appear on the second and 
third days. Give away also the produce of the 
fourth day, and then the whole stock will go on 
regularly. If it be wished to rear all that are 
hatched, endeavour to keep the produce of each 
day separate, by numbering the boxes and shelves. 
When the leaves on the twigs are loaded with 
worms, they are to be gently placed on clean stout 
white paper laid on frames with crossed rattans, 
giving them plenty of room. The shelves, over 
which these frames should slide, may be four feet 
square, and fixed to upright posts; they may be 
multiplied as required. Whether a distinct build- 
ing or apartment in a dwelling-house be devoted 
to a large parcel, it is absolutely necessary to se- 
cure the command of a gentle circulation of air, 
by having ventilators in the windows, floors, and 
doors. 

One or more tin circular ventilators in place of 
panes of glass, would always ensure a regular cir- 
culation in the apartment: they may be stopped 
when their motion is not reqilired. Red ants are 
deadly enemies to silk worms; to prevent their at- 
tacks, the posts containing fixed shelves must not 
touch the ceiling, nor must the shelves reach the 
walls; the lower parts of the posts should be smear- 
ed with thick molasses. If the worms are fed on 
tables or moveable frames, their legs may also be 
smeared with molasses, or put in a dish of water; 
guard also against cockroaches, mice, and other 
vermin. 

The worms being all hatched, whether they are 
to remain in the first apartment, or be removed to 
another room, or distinct building, the heat must 
be reduced to 75°; for, as the worms gi Jw older, 
they require less heat. 

It is impossible to insure the regular hatching of 
the worms without the use of a thermometer 
winch may be bought for $2 50 at M'Allister'a 
Chesnut street. Philadelphia. 



HUSBANDRY. 



351 



first age — that is, until the ivorms have passed 

their Jirst mouUhiff or changed their first skin. 

The apartment must be light, but the sun must 
not shine on the worms in any stage. 

Feed the worms with the most tender leaves, 
four times a day, allowing six hours between each 
meal; give the sm.-illest quantity for the first feeding, 
and gradually increase it at each meal between the 
moultings. 

Tn about an hour and a half, the silk worms de- 
vour their portion of leaves, and then remain more 
or less quiet. Whenever food is given, widen the 
spaces for them; scattered food may be swept iato 
its place. 

Experiments may be made as to the comparative 
advantages of using chopped or whole young leaves. 
If chopped, a sharp knife must be used, to prevent 
the leaves from being bruised, and thereby causing 
the exudation of water from them, which would 
prove injurious. On the fourth day the skin be- 
comes of a hazel colour and looks shining, their 
heads enlarge and assume a silvery bright appear- 
ance; these are marks of their approaching first 
change. Their food on this day, thei'efore, may 
be diminished, or, when these appearances take 
place, but not before. Enlarge the spaces as the 
worms ino/rease in size. The leaves ought to be 
gathered a few hours before they are used, that 
they may lose their sharpness: they keep very 
well in a cool cellar three days; the leaves ought 
to be gathered over night, for the morning's meal, 
to prevent the danger of collecting them in rainy 
weather. The leaves must be pulled carefully, and 
not bruised. On the fourth day the appetites of 
the worms begin to decrease, preparatory to their 
first moulting, and their food must be diminished 
in proportion as the previous meal has not been 
completely eaten. If the precarious heat of the 
weather has b^rn depended v.pon, the first change 
may not appear until the sixth or seventh day. 

In the course of the fifth day all the worms be- 
come torpid; during this period, and in the subse- 
quent moultings, they must on no account be dis- 
turbed. A few begin to i-evive at the close of the 
filth day; some leaves may be then given. After the 
first moulting, the worms are of a dark ash colour. 
Second age. 

As the worms are fond of the young twigs, some 
of these should be spread over them with the leaves 
attached, upon which the worms will immediately 
fasten, and they may then be removed to a cleau 
paper; or lay a strip of chopped leaves near the 
vorms, and they will leave the old food. 

The litter is to be taken away; but as some of 
the worms often remain among the old leaves, they 
ought to be examined. To this end, the litter 
should be removed to another room, spread out on 
a table, and a few twigs placed over it, on which 
the worms, if ary, will mount, when they may be 
added to the others; this rule must be attended to 
after every moulting. Ten per cent, is generally 
allowed for loss of young worms. The two first 
meals of the first day should be less plentiful than 
the two last, and must consist of the most tender 
leaves; these must be cor.tinued for food until after 
the third moulting. 

If between the moultings any worms should ap- 
pear sick, and cease to eat, they must be removed 
to anotl er room, where the air is pure and a little 
warmer than thattiiey have left, put on clean paper, 
and some fresh leaves, chopped fine, given to them; 
they will soon recover, and then may be added to 
the others. 

On the third day, the appetite of many worms 
will be visibly diminished; and, in the course of it, 
many will become torpid — the next day ..11 are 



toi-pid; on the fifth day they will all have changed 
their skins and will be roused. 

The colour of the worms in the second age be- 
comes a liglit grey, the muzzle is white, and the 
hair hardly to be seen. 

It must never be forgotten, that, during the time 
the worms are occupied in moulting, the food 
should be greatly diminislied, and no more given, 
than will satisfy those which have not yet become 
torpid on the first day, or those which have chang- 
ed their skins before the others. 
T/drd age. 

During this age the thermometer must range be- 
tween 71° and 73°. The revived worms are easily 
known by their new aspect. The latest worms 
should be plactd apart, as their next moulting will 
be a day later a'so, or they may be put in the hot- 
test part of the room to hasten their growth. This 
rule must be observed in the next moulting — in- 
crease the spaces. 

Tiie second day, the two first meals are to be 
the least copious, the two last the greatest, because, 
towards the close of the day, the worms grow very 
hungry. The third day will require about the 
same quantity as the preceding last meals; but on 
the fourth day, as the appetites of the worms sen- 
sibly diminish, not more than half the former feed 
will be required. The first meal is to be the 
largest: feed those that will eat at any time of the 
day. The fifth day, still less will suffice, as the 
greatest part are moulting; the sixth day they 
begin to rouse. Remove the litter, or even before 
they have moulted, if tne worms are numerous. 
Fourth age. 

The thermometer should range between 68° and 
71°. If the weather be warm, and the glass rise 
several degrees higher, open the ventilators, ex- 
clude the sun, and make a slight blaze in the 
chimney, to cause a circulation of the air. Widen 
the spaces for the worms. The leaves mu^t now 
be regularly cliopped in a straw-cutting box, or 
with a chopping-knife. The food is to be greatly 
increased on the second, third, and fourth days. 
On the fifth, less will be required, as i.i the course 
of this day many become torpid; the first meal on 
this day should therefore be the largest. On the 
sixth, they will want still less, as nearly the whole 
will be occupied in effecting their last change of 
skin. Renew the air in the apartment by burning 
straw or shavings in the chimney, and open the 
ventilators. If the evenings be cool, after a hot 
day, admit the external air tor an hour. None but 
full grown leaves should be hereafter given to the 
worms, and they must be all chopped; avoid the 
fruit, as they ^vould prove injurious, and add 
greatly to the litter. On ihT seventh day, ail the 
worms will have roused, and thus finish their 
fourth age. The litter must be again removed. 
Fifth age, or until the ivorms prepare to mount. 
■ The thermometer should be about t)8°. The 
constitution of the worms being now formed, they 
begin to elaborate the silk- vessels, and fill them 
with the silky malerial, which they decompose, 
and form from the mulberry leaves. Give abun- 
dance, of room: do not let the worms lie so close as 
to touch one another, for their respira'ion will be 
thereby impeded: continue to feed regularly and 
fully, as the appetite of the worms now becomes 
voracious: give food rather five times a day than 
four; even six meals will not be too many. The 
Jast meal should be late at night, and the first the 
next day in the morning, at an early hour. The 
worms are not again to be moved, a.'id the hurdles, 
or feeding frames, must be cleaned. On the seventh 
day of the fifth age, they have attained their largest 
size, viz. three inches long, and begin to giow 



352 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



shining and yellow. Tlie appetites of some dimi- 
nish, but that if others continues, and must be 
su|)plied, to hasten their maturity. The litter 
must be removed every two days, during the fifth 
age, but not when the worms are moulting, unless 
it can De done witliout disturbing them. 

The preservation of the proper temperature of 
the apartment at this stage, cannot be too seriously 
impressed upon the cultivator. If sudden and 
great heat in the weather should take place, as 
often happe.rs at this time, serious loss may be 
suffered, without proper precautions. The in- 
• creased heat to which the worms are exposed, 
causes them to cease eating, to leave their feeding 
shelves, and to wan 5er about the room, in order to 
find corners and places to form tb^ir cocoons in 
before the silk fluid has been ful'y elaborated, or 
matured; thus defeating, in a great measure, all 
the care previously bestowed upon them. In the 
summer of the year 1825, vast numbers of worms 
were killed by hot weather, in Mansfield, Conrec- 
ticut. To guard against sudden heat in the wea- 
ther, close the window shutters while the sun is 
beating on theni, and keep the ventilators in the 
ceiling or otiier parts of the room open; and, if 
possible, tubs of ice should be brought into the 
apartment, until the thermometer shows a diminu- 
tion of temperature to the proper degree. The 
windows must also be kept open every evening, and 
until sunrise next morning, and water sprinkled 
on the floor, to promote evaporation, and conse- 
quently a freshness in the air. If the worms should 
become diseased during the fourth or fifth ages, oak 
leaves ma)' be given to them. These were slated 
to have been found very beneficial in the year 
l77'-2, in Bucks county; but the species of oak was 
not mentioned. The white oak may be tried. 
Of the rearing of si '^■ -worms in the last period of 

tiie fifth age, that is, until the cocoon is per- 
fected. 

The fifth age can only be looked on as termi- 
nated, when the cocoon is perfect. 

The cleanliness of the feeding frames in these 
last days of 'he fifth age, requires great attention, 
tc jjreserve the health of the silk worm«. 

About the tenth day of the fifth age, the worms 
attain perfection, which may be ascertained by the 
following indications. 

Ist. When on putting some leaves on the wick- 
ers, tlie insects get upon the leaves without eating 
them, and rear their heads as if in search of some- 
thing else. 

2(1. When looking at them horizontally, the 
light shines through them, and they appear of a 
A'hitish-yellow transparent colon*". 

3d. When numbers of the worms which were 
fastened to the inside of the edges of the wickers, 
and straightened, now get upon the edges and move 
slowly along, instinct urging them to seek change 
of place. 

4ih. When numbers of worms leave the centre 
of the wickers, and try to reach the edges and 
crawl upon them. 

5ih. When their rings draw in, and their green- 
ish colour changes to a deep golden hue. 

6th. When their skins become wrinkled about 
the neck, and their bodies have more softness to 
the touch than heretofore, and feel like soft dough. 

7th. When in taking a silk worm in the hand, 
and looking through it, the whole oody has assum- 
ed the transparency of a ripe yellow plum. When 
these signs appear in apy of the insects, every 
thing should be prepared for their rising, that 
those worms which are ready to rise may not lose 
their strength and silk in seeking for the support 
they require. Handle the worms at this stage with the 
greatest gentleness, as the slightest pressure injures 



them. When moved, they should be left on th» 
twigs or leaves to which tliey are fastened, to i)r& 
vent their being hurt by tearing them off. A blun' 
hook should be used to take up those not adhering 
to leaves or twigs. 

Preparation of the hedge. 
A week or ten Jf>ys before the worms are ready t< 
mount, bundles of twigs of chesnut, hickory, oak 
or of the birch of which stable brooms are made, 
must be procured, prepared, and arranged ir 
bunches, so that the worms may easily climb uj. 
them, to work their cocoons. As soon as it is ob- 
served that the worms want to rise, the bundles of 
twigs must be arranged on the feeding trays, leav- 
ing fifteen inches between them. The top branches 
should touch the low^r part of the tray above that 

j on which they are placed, so as to form an arch — 
and be placed a little aslant, that the worms, when 
climbing, may not fall off. The i/ranches should 
be spread out like fans, that the air may penetrate 
through all parts, and the worms work with ease. 
When the worms are too near one another, they 
do not work so well, and form double cocoons, 

I which are only worth half a single round cocoon. 
Leave openings at the tops of the curves, for the 
worms to form their cocoons in. 

As soon as the worms are prepared to rise, the 
feeding frames should be cleaned thoroughly, and 
the apartment well ventilated. Put the worms 
which are ready to rise near the hedges, and give 
a few leaves to those that &re still inclined to eat. 
After they have begun to rise, those tiiat are weak 
and lazy do not eat, do not seem to be inclined to 
rise, and remain motionless on the leaves. These 
should be taken away, and put in a clean drj' room, 
of at least 75° of heat, where there are hurdles co- 
vered with paper, am. the hedge prejjared foi 
them. The increased heat will cause them to rise 
directly. All the silK. worms being jft'the hurdles,, 
they should be immediately cleaned. The tem- 
perature of the room should be between 68° and 
71°. When the worms are forming their cocoons, 
the utmost silence must be preserved in the room, 
as they are very sensible to noise, and, if disturbed, 
will for a moment cease to spin; thus the continuity 
of the thread will be interrupted, and the value 
of the cocoon diminished. When the cocoons have 
attained a certain consistency, the apartment may 
be left quite open. 

Sixth age, beginning in the chrysalis state, and 
ending tvhen the moths appear. 
The following are the necessary things to be done: 

I. To gather the cocoons. 

II. To choose the cocoons which are to be pre- 
served for the eggs. 

III. Preservation of cocoons until the appearance 
of the moth. 

. /. Gathering of the cocoons. 
Strong, health)', and well mana^^ed silk worms, 
will complete their cocoons in three days and a half 
at farthest, reckoning from the moment when they 
first begin casting the floss. This period will be 
shorter, if the silk worm? spin the silk in a high- 
er temperature than that which has been indicated, 
and in very dry air. 

It will be better not to take off the cocoon be- 
fore the eighth or ninth day, reckoning from the 
time when the silk worm first rose. They may be 
taken offon the seventh, if the laboratories k we been 
conducted with such regularity, that the time may 
be known with certainty, when this may be done. 
Begin on the lower tier of hurdles, and take the 
cabii« down gently, giving them to those who are 
to gather the cocoons; place a basket between two 
of the gatherers to receive the cocoons; another 
person "should receive the stripped bushes, which 
I may be laid by for another year. All the cocoon- 



HUSBAIVDRY, 



353 



that want a certaia consistency, and feel sott, 
should be laid aside, that they may not be mixed 
with the better. Empty the baskets upon hurdles 
Of tvpvs placed in rows, and spread the cocoons 
about 'four fingers deep, or nearly to the top of 
the feeding frame. When the cocoons are detach- 
ed, the down or floss in which the silk worms 
have formed the cocoon, should be taken off. If 
the cocoons are for sale, weigh them, and send 
them to the purchaser. The baskets, the floor and 
all things used, should be cleaned. 

When gathering the cocoons, make four assort- 
ments: — ist. Those designed for breed. 2d. The 
dupions, or double ones. 3d. The firmest of those 
which are to be reeled. 4th. Those of a looser 
texture. 
II. Choosing the cocoons for the production of eggs. 

About two oundes of eggs may be saved out of 
one pound and a half of male and female cocoons. 

The small cocoons of a straw colour, with hard 
ends, and fine webs, and which are a little de- 
pressed in the middle, as if tightened by a ring or 
circle, are to be preferred. There are no certain 
signs to distinguish the male from the female co- 
eoons: the best known are the following. 

The small cocoons sharper at one, or both ends, 
and depressed in the middle, generally produce 
the male. The round full cocoons without ring 
or depression in the middle, usually contain the 
female. 

These may be distinguished from the dupions 
by the extra size, the clumsy shape, rather round 
than oval, of the latter. As however, all marks 
may fail, an extra number may be kept, of the 
best of those which are spun double; and when the 
moths come out, the males and females being easily 
distmguished, an addition can be made from them 
to the defective side. 

By shaking the cocoon close to the ear, we may 
generally ascertain whether the chrysalis be alive. 
If it be dead, and loosened from the cocoon, it 
yields a sharp sound. When dead, it yields a 
muffled sound, and is more confined in the co- 
coon. 

HI. Preservation of cocoons intended for seed, or 
until the appearance of the moth. 

Experience shows that where the temperature 
of the room is above 73 deg. the transition of the 
chrysalis to the moth state would be too rapid, and 
the coupling will not be productive; if below 66 
deg. the development of the moth is tardy, which 
is also injurious. Damp air will change it into a 
weak and sickly moth; the apartment should there- 
fore be kept in an even dry temperature, between 
66 deg. and 73 deg. Wlien collected, spread the 
cocoons on a dry floor, or on tables, and strip 
them clean of down or floss, to prevent the feet 
of the moth from being entangled in it when com- 
ing out. While cleaning them, all those that ap- 
pear to have any defect should be laid aside; this 
is the lime, also, to separate the male and female 
cocoons, as far as we can distinguish them. 

Select an equal number of males and females, 
and keep the cocoons of the same day's mounting 
separate, that the moths may pierce them at the 
same time. If the good cocoons taken from the 
whole parcel, are all first mixed, and the selection 
for those intended for breeding be made from this 
general heap, many will be set aside, which were 
tormed by worms that had mounted upon different 
days, and which will be pierced by the moths un- 
equally, and hence there will not be an equal num- 
ber of males and females produced at the same 
time; this irregular appearance may cause the loss 
of a great many moths, or of several thousand 

When th2 selection has been made, the sorted 
2 U 



cocoons must be put on tables, in layers of about 
two inches, allowing the air to pass freely through 
them, that it may not be necessary to stir them 
frequently; but it is beneficial to stir them i-ound 
once a day, if the air be moist. WTien the seed 
cocoons are not very numerous, they may be strung 
upon threads, and hung against a waft, or suspend- 
ed from a beam. Just so much of the middle of 
the cocoon is to be pierced with a needle as is suf- 
ficient to attach it to the thread. The middle is 
chosen, because it cannot be ascertained at which 
end the moth will pierce the cocoon. Place a male 
and female cocoon alternately upon the thread, that 
they may be near each other when they come out. 

If the heat of the apartment is above 73°, every 
method of diminishing the heat should be tried: 
such as keeping all the apertures to the sunny side 
carefully closed, to cause thorough drafts of air to 
dry the humidity that exhales from the chrysalides. 
Should the temperature rise to 78° or 82°, the co- 
coons must be put in a cooler place, as a dry cellar 
Seventh age of the silk -worm. 

The seventh, and the last age of the silk worm, 
comprises the entire life of the moth. 

The formation of the moth, and its disposition 
to issue from the cocoon, ma)' be ascertained when 
one of its extremities is perceived to be wet, which 
is the part occupied by the head of the moth. A 
few hours alter, and sometimes in one hour after, 
the moth will pierce the cocoon and come out; oc- 
casionally the cocoon is so hard, and so wound in 
silk, that the moth in vain strives to come forth, 
and dies in the cocoon. Sometimes the female de- 
posits some eggs in the cocoon before she can get 
out, and often perishes in it; this circumstance has 
induced some to extract the chrysalis from the co- 
coon by cutting it, that the moth may have only to 
pierce its thin envelope; but the experienced Dan- 
dolo disapproves of the practice (although he has 
performed the operation with success) because it 
is tedious; and should the moth be put on a plain 
surface, five in a hundred will not be able to get 
out, but will drag the envelope along, and at last 
die, not being able to disencumber themselves. 
If the surface be not smooth, the moths will issue 
with greater ease; it is very favourable to the moths 
when they put forth their head and first legs, to 
find some substance to which they may fasten, and 
thus facilitate clearing out of the cocoon by the 
support. For this reason, they should be spread 
out veiy thin on tables covered, with a muslin or 
linen cloth. The life of the moth lasts, in Italy, 
ten, eleven, or twelve days, according to the 
strength of its constitution, and the mildness of 
the atmosphere. With Mr Dusar, of Philadel- 
phia, the moths lived from five to eight days; a hot 
temperature accelerates their operations and the 
drying which precedes their death. 

Hatching of the moths, and their preservation. 

Cocoons kept in a temperature of 66 degrees be- 
gin to be hatched after fifteen days; those kept in 
a heat between 71 and 73 degrees, begin to come 
forth after eleven or twelve days. The room in 
which the moths are produced should be dark, or 
at least there should be only sufiicient light to dis- 
tinguish objects. This is an important rule, and 
must be carefully attended to. The moths do not 
come forth in great numbers the first or the second 
day, but are chiefly hatched on the fourth, fifth, 
sixth, and seventh days, according to the degree 
of heat in which the cocoons have been kept. The 
hours when the moths burst the cocoons in the 
greatest numbers, are the three and four hours af- 
ter suni'ise, if tLe temperature is from 64 to 66 de- 
grees. The male moths, the very moment they 
come out, go eagerly in quest of the female; when 
they are united, they must be placed on frames 

2 £ 2 



354 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



covered with linen, and made in such a manner as 
to allow the linen to be changed when soiled. 
Much care must be taken in raising the united 
moths; they must be held by the wings in order 
not to separate them. When one small table is 
filled with Qioths in a state of union, they are to 
be carried into a small room, sufficiently airy and 
fresh, and which can be made very dark. Having 
employed the first hours of the day in selecting 
and carrying the united moths, the males and fe- 
males which are found separate on the tables, are 
to be brought into contact, put on frames and car- 
ried into the dark room. It is easy to ascertain if 
there are more females than males. The body of 
the female is nearly double the size of that of the 
male; besides, the male which is single, beats 
about its wings at the least approach of light; the 
hour must be noted at which the tables containing 
the united moths are placed in the dark room. 

If, after this operation is over, there still remain 
some moths of each sex, they are to be placed in 
a small box with a perforated covet", until the mo- 
ment favourable for their union arrives. From 
time to time, they must be looked at, to see if they 
separate, in order that they may be brouglit anew 
into contact. 

When any thing is to be done in the dark cham- 
ber, as little light as possible must be admitted; 
lonly sufficient to distinguish objects. The more 
light there is, the more the moths are disturbed 
and troubled in their operations, as light is too 
stimulating for them. The boxes are very con- 
venient to keep quiet the males which remain, and 
thus prevent the fine powder adhering to their 
wings from flying about, and the destruction of their 
wings, and consequently their vital power. The 
cocoons must be removed as fast as they are pierced 
Dy the moth, for being moist, they communici.te 
their humidity to those which are still entire. The 
paper, also, on the trays, when soiled, is to be re- 
moved, and fresh supplied. Constant attention is 
required during the whole day, as there is a suc- 
cession in the process of hatching, and union of 
the moths, which occasiopally vary in relative 
proportion to one another. Instead of a frame, 
papei may be used for receiving the eggs. A few 
good cocoons will not produce a moth, owing to 
their hardness, which prevents the moth from 
making a hole by which to come forth. 

Separation of the moth, and laying the eggs. 
If there be an- excess of males, they must be 
thrown away; if of females, males must be allotted 
to them, which have already been in a state of 
anion. Great care must be taken, when the cou- 
ples are separated, not to injure the males. I'he 
male ought not to remain united more than six 
nours; after the lapse of that time, take the moths 
by the wings and body, and separate them gently. 
All the males which are no longer in union, must 
be placed upon a frame; the most vigorous after- 
wards selected, and united with those females 
which have not yet had a mate. Other vigorous 
males must be preserved in a separate box, and 
kept in darkness. When there is a want of males, 
let them remain united to the female the first tiftie 
only five hours instead of six; the feuales are not 
mjured by watiting for the male even many hours; 
the only loss sustained is that of some eggs, which 
are not impregnated. Before separatir^^ the two 
sexes, prepare, in a eool, dry, airy chamber, the 
linen on which the moth is to deposit its eggs. 

Six hours, as just said, is the usual time for the 
moths to remain united, for in that time the eggs 
of the female will be fully irap:ognated. It is 
also the general practice not to use the male for 
another female; but Mr Delonchamps assures us, 
that in the event of having more femal« tb^" male 



moths, the latter may be again used to profit. In 
the year 1824, he raised many worms from eggs 
the produce of a sixth coupling, which were fully 
equal to those produced from eggs at the first; the 
union continued never less than from 20 to 24 
hours; the male after a sixth union appeared as 
lively and brisk as at first, but he had no more 
females. The eggs from even a thiricenth union 
of the same male M'ith different females, had all 
the characters of those of the best quality. In 
these cases, the disunion of the pair was, moreover, 
never spontaneous, but always required to be ef- 
fected by the hands. , 

The following is the manner in which the cloth 
must be arranged: — 

At the bottom of a tressel or frame, which must 
be proportioned to the number of moths, place 
horizontally, on each side of the length, tvvc 
boards, so arranged, that one of their sides may 
be nailed to the tressel, about five inches and a 
half high above the ground, and that the other 
side of the board shall be a little higher, and pro- 
ject outwards. Upon the tressel lay a cloth, so 
that it may hang equally on each side. The ends 
of the cloth must cover the boards below; the more 
perpendicular the lateral parts of the tressel are, 
the less soiled will be the cloth by the evacuation 
of the liquid from the moths. The moths which 
have been united six hours are then to be gently 
separated, the females placed on the frame, and 
carried to the tressel and placed on the cloth, one 
over another, beginning at the top and going down- 
wards. Note the time at which the moths are 
placed on the cloth, and keep those which are 
placed afterwards separate, to avoid confusion 
The females that have had a virgin mate must 
be treated in the same manner as those which have 
been united with one that had been coupled pre- 
viously five hours. The females should be left on 
the cloth SC or 40 hours, without being touched; 
at this time, if it be observed that the linen has 
not been well stocked with eggs, other females 
must be placed upon it, in order that the eggs 
may be equally distributed. When the heat of the 
room is 77 or 79 degrees, or when at 63 or 65 de- 
grees, the eggs will be yellow, that is unirapreg- 
nated; or of a reddish colour, that is imperfectly 
impregnated, and will not produce worms: the 
temperature of the room must therefore be kept 
between these extremes. Sometimes a female 
moth will escape from its mate before impregna- 
tion, and produce many useless eggs. 

The female cocoons, as before noted, are gene- 
rally larger than the males, and not so much pointed 
as these are, and are without the ring or depression 
in the middle, which commonly distinguishes the 
cocoons containing the latter. 

Eight or ten days after the deposition of the 
eggs, the jonquil colour peculiar to them will 
change to a reddish gray, and afterwards into a 
pale clay hue; they are of a lenticular form, and on 
both surfaces there i. a slight depression. 
Preservation of the eggs. 
Collect the eggs which have fallen on the cloth 
cohering the shelves of the tressel, when quite dry, 
put them in a box, and, if numerous, in layers not 
more than half the breadth of the finger. The 
cloths raised from the tressel when qnitedry, are 
to bo folded and placed in a dry room, the tempe- 
rature of which does not exceed 65°, nor below the 
freezing point, 32°. 

During the summer the cloths must be examined 
everv month, to remove insects; and to preserve 
the cloths alv/ays in fresh air, if the quantity be 
large, place them on a frame of cord attached to . 
the ceiling, or a rafter. A barrel-hoop, crosseO 
with stout pack-tiiread, will make a good frame 



HUSBANDRY, 



355 



A small quantity may be Kept in a tin case. If a 
»oard box be used, the joints and edges of the top 
should be pasted with paper to exclude ants. 

There exists a notion that every two or three 
years the eggs should be changed. It requires lit- 
tle to be said on this egregious error. To suppose 
that the good cocoons of a cultivator, after a few 
years, are no longer fit to produce seed, and yet 
that these cocoons can give good seed for the use 
of another, would be to admit a superstitious con- 
tradiction, which reason, practice, and science, 
alike condemn. A change of seed can only be 
necessary, when from great neglect, for a series of 
years, of the worms, a diminutive race has been 
produced. Worms properly treated, will never 
degenerate. On the subject of the degeneracy of 
silk worms, in the United States, the most posi- 
tive information can be given. 

Mr Samuel Alexander, of Philadelphia, says, 
'* I am convinced that silk worms, cultivated in 
Pennsylvania, instead of degenerating, improve; 
proof of which I possess, in comparing the cocoons 
of four years since, with those of the last year. I 
can say with truth, the worms hatched from the 
eggs 1 brought from the south of Europe, have 
produced annually better silk." The testimony 
of Mr Sharrod M'Call, of Galaden county, Flo- 
rida, is still more decisive. 

A sample of beautiful sewing-silk, sent with his 
communication to the Secretary of the Treasury, 
was part of a parcel produced by worms, the stock 
of which he has had thirty years; and they wei-e 
obtained from a maternal ancestor, who had pos- 
sessed them many years before. 

During all this long period, no degeneracy has 
been observed. Let proper care be taken of silk 
worms, and no deterioration will take place. 

The time has passed when the idle reveries of 
Buffon, Robertson, De Pauw, and others, respect- 
ing the tendency of nature " to belittle" aud de- 
generate every thing foreign in the new world, were 
received as truths. Facts, proud facts, demon- 
strate not only the absurdity of their positions, but 
the superiority of every American animal and vege- 
table, when compared with similar productions in 
the old world. 

To bake cocoons. 

Cocoons reel more readily, and yield silk of a 
superior quality, without killing the insect by either 
steam of hot water, or by baking them; but those 
who have not the means of reeling off their co- 
coons in two or three days after they are formed, 
or of selling them, must kill the insects they con- 
tain, or they will eat through, and spoil the cocoons 
by breaking the continuity of the thread. The 
easiest way to do this, is to bake them in an oven, 
which must be about as hot as when bread has been 
taken out of it. After picking out all the spotted 
cocoons, put the rest in flat baskets, filling them 
within an inch of the top: cover' them with paper, 
and a wrapper over it: put these baskets in the 
oven, and after an hour, draw them out, and cover 
them with a woollen rug, leaving the wrapper as it 
was. Let them stand five or six hours, to keep in 
the heat and stifle the chrysalis. Then spread 
them in thin layers on shelves, and move them 
every day (to prevent their becoming mouldy) un- 
til perfectly dry. It may be important to state, 
that the birth of the moth may be prolonged a 
month by keeping the cocoons in a very cold dry 
cellar. If the cocoons are kept over summer, they 
must be protected from ants, mice, and cockroches. 

N. B. Mr D. Tees, No. 150, North Front street, 
and B. F. Pomeroy, corner of Walnut and Dock 
streets, Philadelphia, are i-ecommended to those 
who wish to have silk-reels made. 



On the cidture of the white mulberry tree. 

The proper soils for this tree are diy, sandy, or 
stony: the more stony the better, provided the 
roots can penetrate them. The situation should be 
high: low, rich, and moist lands never produce 
nourishing leaves, however vigorously the trees 
may grow. They are always found to be too watery 
The same remark may be made upon the leaves ot 
young seedling plants, which will not produce good 
or abundance of silk, and are only proper when 
the worms are young; say in their two first ages. 
It may be useful to have a parcel of these growing 
in a warm situation, that they may come forward 
before large trees, and serve for early food. 

Mulberry trees may be propagated by — 1st, seed; 
2d, grafting; 3d, budding; 4th, layers; 5th, cut- 
tings; 6th, suckers. 

The ripe fruit may be sown in drills, in ground 
previously prepared; or the seeds may be washed 
out of the pulp, and mixed with an equal quantity 
of sand or fine mould, and then sown. They 
should be covered about a quarter of an inch deep. 
The seeds will soon vegetate if the ground be rich, 
and will live through the winter, unless the cold 
should be unusually severe. A quantity of plants 
from seeds thus treated, lived through the cold 
winter of 1825 — 6, in Philadelphia. In very cold 
weather, the young plants may be covered with 
straw, or long manure. The following spring, thin 
the plants so that they may stand one foot apart at 
least. Seeds intended to be sown in the spring, 
or to be kept, should be washed out, as they are 
apt to heat, or to mould, if permitted to remain in 
the fruit. Land destined for spring sowing should 
be dug or ploughed in the preceding autumn, left 
rough all winter, and be harrowed or raked fine, as 
soon as the season will permit, and the seed sown 
in drills. The young plants must be watered in 
dry weather, and weeds carefully kept down. 
Weeds will not only stint the growth of the plants 
but cause disease in them, which may affect the 
future vigour and health of the tree. In the second 
year transplanfrthem to two feet distance from one 
another, to give room for cleansing and dressing 
the land. When transplanting, cut off some of the 
roots, especially those that are ragged or decayed, 
and the tap root, to force out lateral roots; and also 
the tops, at six or seven inches from the ground. 
When the plants in the nursery have sprung, strip 
off the side buds, and leave none but such as are 
necessary to form the head of the tree. The buds 
which are left should be opposite to one another. 
If the plant-s in the nursery do not shoot well the 
first year, in the month of March following cut 
them over, about seven inches from the ground, 
and they will grow briskly. They should be wa- 
tered with diluted barn-yard water. 

When the plants have grown to the size of one 
inch in diameter, plant them out in fields or places 
where they are to remain, and make the hole six 
feet square: trim the roots, and press the earth on 
the roots as the holes are filled. During the first 
year of planting out, leave all the buds which the 
young trees have pushed out on the top till the fol- 
lowing spring, when none are to be left, but three 
or four bran«3ies to form the head of the tree. The 
buds on those branches should be on the outside of 
them, that the shoots may describe a circle round 
the stem, and that the interior of the tree may be 
kept open: and as the buds come out, rub off all 
those on the bodies of the trees. For several years 
after, every spring, open the heads of the trees 
when too thick of wQod, and cut off any branch 
which crosses or takes the lead of the rest, leaving 
two buds on the outside of every trimmed branch. 
Count Veri'i, of Italy, an experienced cultivator of 



356 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



the mulberry tree, recommends to leave only one 
bud at the end of every branch, preferring those 
which are outside, and opposite to each other; and 
when three buds appear together, to leave the mid- 
dle one, which is always most vigorous, and to de- 
tach the two on each side of it. If the superior 
buds do not push well, the two next lower ones 
must be left. Every farmer knows the very great 
importance of dressing ground round young trees 
twice in the course of a year, and of securing them 
to stakes, to insure an upright straight growth, and 
to prevent their being shaken by winds, or levelled 
by storms. The trees may be planted at the usual 
distances of apple trees. The intervals may be 
cultivated in cabbages, turnips, or mangel wurtzel. 
The attendance necessary to Indian corn would en- 
danger the young trees. 

It is so much the practice in the United States 
to let trees take their chance for growing, after they 
have been planted, or sprung up from seeds or 
stones, that tiiese particular directions may be dis- 
regarded. But let a comparative experiment be 
made with mulberry trees permitted to grow at 
will, and others treated as here directed, and the 
difference in their beauty and growth will be ob- 
vious. The advi.ntage, in tliese respects, will be 
decidedly in favour of trees which have been at- 
tended to. 

Without deciding upon the superiority of the 
various modes of propagating mulberry trees, it is 



thought proper to mention the great advarstage of 
the mode of budding. In the year 1823, Mr Mil- 
lington, of Missouri, "budded the white mulberry 
on stocks of native trees; and such as were done 
before July, were fox-ced out immediately by cut- 
ting off the stocks above the buds. Some of these 
buds made limbs more than two feet long by the 
2/th October. The buds put in after the middle 
of July, he did not intend to force out until the 
following spring. He thinks budding more expe- 
ditious and surer than engrafting, and when it fails, 
does not injure the stock so much as this mode. 
Native stocks, to engraft or bud on, can be pro- 
cured with ease; and the trees thus raised would 
not be liable to disease in their roots, like foreign 
trees: and these engrafted or budded trees would 
grow much faster, and furnish leaves much sooner, 
and of a larger size, and better quality. This will 
not be doubted by those who have observed how 
much faster an engrafted tree grows, and how much 
larger its leaves are than those of a seedling tree." 
Experietice has fully shown that the leaves of the 
native mulberry tree produce good and strong silk^ 
although not so fine as that from the white mul- 
berry. Those, therefore, who have only the na- 
tive tree, may begin their operations with it: and 
they will acquire a knowledge of the business of 
rearing silk worms, while the foreign species is 
growing. 



BVnikli AND DOMESTIC BCOTiOmiT. 



TO MANAGE A DAIRY. 

Improved mode of feeding and milking cows, near 
Farnham in Siirry. 
Directions to the co-w feeder. — Go to the cow- 
stall at 6 o'clock in the morning, winter and sum- 
mer; give each cow half a bushel of the mangel- 
wurzel, carrots, turnips, or potatoes, cut; at 7 
o'clock, the hour the dairy maid comes to milk 
them, give each some hay, and let them feed, till 
they are all milked. — If any cow refuses hay, give 
her something she will eat, such as grains, carrots, 
&c. during the time she is milking, as it is abso- 
lutely necessary the cow should feed whilst milk- 
ing. As soon iiS the woman has finished milking 
in the morning, turn the cows into the airing 
ground, and let there be plenty of fresh water in 
the troughs; at 9 o'clock give each cow 3 gallons 
of the mixture, (as under: to 8 gallons of grains 
add 4 gallons of bran or pollard;) when they have 
eaten that, put some hay into the cribs; at 12 
o'clock give each 3 gallons of the mixture as be- 
fore; if any cow looks for more, give her another 
gallon; on the ^ontraiy, if she will not eat what 
you gave her, take it out of the manger, for never 
at one time let a cow have more than she will eat 
up clean. — Mind and keep the mangers clean, that 
they do not get sour. At 2 o'clock give each cow 
half a bushel of carrots, mangel-wurzel, or tur- 
nips; look the turnips, &c. &c. over well, before 
giving them to the cows, as one rotten turnip will 
give a bad taste to the milk, and most likely spoil 
a whole dairy of butter. At 4 o'clock put the cows 
into the stall to be milked; feed them on hay as 
you did at milking-time in the morninp' keeping 



in mind that the cow whilst milking must feed on 
something. At 6 o'clock give each cow 3 gallons 
of the mixture as before. Rack them up at 8 
o'clock. Twice in a week put into each cow's 
feed at noon, a quart of malt-dust. 

* * The daily expense of subsisting each cow 
on tlie above feed will be about two shillings. 

Directions to the dairy 7naid. — Go to the cow- 
stawl at 7 o'clock; take with you cold water and a 
sponge, and wash each cow's udder clean before 
milking; dowse the udder well with cold water, 
winter and summer, as it braces and repels heats. 
Keep your hands and arms clean. Milk each cow 
as dry as you can, morning and evening, and when 
you milk each cow as you suppose dry, begin again 
with the cow you first milked, and drip them each; 
for the principal reason of cows failing in their 
milk is from negligence in not milking the cow 
dry, particularly at the time the calf is taken from 
the cow. Suffer no one to milk a cow but 3'ourself, 
and have, no p-ossiping in the stall. Every Satur- 
day night give in an exact account of the quantity of 
milk each cow has given in the week. 
To make oats prove doubly nutritious to horses. 

Instead of gnnding the oats, break thorn in a 
mill; and the same quantity will prove doubly nu- 
tritious. Another method is, to boil the corn, and 
give the horses the liquor in which it has been 
boiled; the result will be, that instead of 6 bushels 
in a crude state, 3 bushels so prepared will be 
found to answer, and to keep the animals in supe- ' 
rior vigour and condition. 

Cheap method of rearing homed cattle. 

After having expressed the, oil from the linseed, 
make up the remaining husks ot dross into round 



liURAL AND DOMESTIC ECONOMY. 



867 



balls of the size of a fist, and afterwards dry them; 
infuse and dissolve two or three of these balls in 
hot water, and add in the beginning a third or 
fourth part of fresh milk, but afterwards, when the 
calves are grown, mix only skim milk with the 
infi:sion. 

To rear calves. 

The best method of rearing calves, is to take 
them off the cows in three weeks or a month, and 
to give them nothing but a little fine hay, until 
they begin through necessity to pick a little: then 
cut some of the nay and mix it with bran or oats 
in a trough, and slice some turnips about the size 
of a crown piece, which they will soon by licking 
learn to eat: after which give them turnips enough. 
To rear calves -without milk. 

In two or three days after they are calved take 
the calves from the cows, put them in a house by 
themselves, then give them a kind of water gruel, 
composed of about one-third of barley and two- 
thirds of oats ground together very fine, then sift 
the mixture through a very fine sieve, put it into 
the quantity of water below mentioned, and boil 
it half an hour, when take it off the fire, and let it 
remain till it is milk-warm; then give each calf 
about a quart in the morning, and the same quantity 
in the evening, and increase it as the calf grows 
older. It requires very little trouble to make them 
drink it; after the calves have had this diet about a 
week or ten days, tie up a little bundle of hay and 
put it in the middle of the house, which they will 
by degrees come to eat: also put a little of the 
meal above mentioned in a small trough for them 
to eat occasionally; keep them in this manner until 
they are of proper age to turn out to grass, before 
which they must be at least two months old. 

Another method. — Make an infusion of malt, or 
fresh wort as a substitute for milk; in summer it 
may be given to the calves cold, but in winter it 
must have the same degree of warmth as the milk 
just coming from the cow; the quantity is the same 
as the milk commonly given at once to a calf, and 
to be increased in proportion as the calf grows. 
To fatten poultry. 

An experiment has lately been tried of feeding 
geese with turnips cut in small pieces like dice, 
but less in size, and put into a trough of water; 
with this food alone, the eflfect was that 6 geese, 
each when lean weighing only 9 lbs., actually 
gained 20 lbs. each in about 3 weeks fattening. 

Malt is an excellent food for geese and turkeys, 
grains are preferred for the sake of economy, un- 
less for immediate and rapid fattening: the grains 
should be boiled afresh. 

Other cheap articles for fattening are oatmeal 
and treacle; barley-meal and milk; boiled oats and 
ground malt. 

Corn before being given to fowls should always 
be crushed and soaked in water. The food will 
thus go further, and it will help digestion. Hens 
fed thus have been known to lay during the whole 
of the winter months. 

To choose a milch cow. 

As to a choice of breeds for a private family, 
none in ?<lngland, (says Mr Lawrence,) probably 
combine so many advantages as the Suffolk dun- 
oows. They excel both in quantity and quality of 
milk; they feed well after they become barren; 
they ate small-sized, and polled or hornless; the 
lasta great convenience. The hornsof cows which 
butt and gore others, should be immediately broad 
tipped. There is a breed of polled Yorkshire or 
Holderness cows, some of them of middling size, 
great milkers, and well adapted to the use of fami- 
lies, where a great quantity of milk is required, 
and where price is no object, and food in plenty. 
If richer milk and a comparison of the two famous 



breeds be desired, one of each may be selected, 
namely, the last ment'cned, and the other of the 
midland county, or long horned species, Colqur 
is so far no object, that neither a good cow nor a 
good horse can be of a bad colour; nevertheless, 
in an ornamental view, the sheeted and pied stock 
of the Yorkshire short-horns, make a picturesque 
figure in the grounds. 

The Alderney cows yield rich milk npon less 
food than larger stock, but are seldom large milk- 
ers, and are particular.y jcanty of produce in the 
winter season. They are, besides, worth little or 
nothing as barreners, not only on account of their 
small size, but their inaptitude to take on fat, and 
the ordinary quality of their beef. 

To determine the economy of a cow. 

The annual consumption of food per cow, if turn- 
ed to grass, is from one acre to an acre and a half 
in the summer, and from a ton to a ton and half of 
iiay in the winter. A cow may be allowed 2 pecks 
of carrots per day. The grass being cut andi car- 
ried will economize it full one-third. The annual 
product of a good fair dairy cow, during several 
months after calving, and either in summer or 
winter, if duly fed and kept in the latter season, 
will be an average of seven pounds of butter per 
week, from five to three gallons of milk per day. 
Afterwards, a weekly average of three or four lbs. 
of butter from barely half the quantity of milk. 
It depends on the constitution of the cow, how 
nearly she may be milked to the time of her calv- 
ing, some giving good milk until within a week or 
two of that period, others requiring to be dried 8 
or 9 weeks previously. I have heard (says Mr 
Lawrence) of 20 lbs. of butter, and even 22 lbs. 
made from the milk of one long-horned cow in se- 
ven days: but I have never been fortunate enough 
to obtain one that would produce more than 12 lbs. 
per week, although I have had a Yorkshire cow 
which milked seven gallons per day, yet never 
made 5 lbs. of butter in one week. On the aver- 
age, three gallons of good milk will make 1 lb, of 
butter. 

To breed pheasants. 

Eggs being provided, put them under a hen that 
has kept the nest three or four days: and if you set 
twr or three hens on the same day, you will have 
the advantage of shifting the good eggs. The hens 
having set their full time, such of the young phea- 
sants as are already hatched, put in a basket, with 
a piece of flannel, till the hen has done hatching. 
The brood, now come, put under a frame with a 
net over it, and a place for the ben, that she can- 
not get to the young pheasants, but that they may 
go to her: and feed them with boiled egg cut 
small, boiled milk and bread, alum curd, ants' 
eggs, a little of each sort, and often. After 2 or 3 
days they will be acquainted with the call of the 
hen that hatched them, may have their liberty to 
run on the grass-plat, or elsewhere, observing to 
shift them with the sun and out of the cold winds; 
they need not nave their liberty in the morning till 
the sun is up; and they must be jhut in with the 
hen in good time in the evening. You must be 
very careful in order to guard against the distem- 
per to which they are liable, in the choice of a sit- 
uation for breeding the birds up; where no poultry, 
pheasants, or turkeys, &c. have ever been kept; 
such as the warm side of a field, orchard or plea- 
sure ground, or garden, or even on a common, or 
a good green la.ie, under circumstances of this 
kind; or by a wood side; but then it is proper for a 
man to keep with them under a temporary hovel, 
and to have two or three dogs chained at a proper 
distance, with a lamp or two at night. 

The birds going on as before mentioned, should 
so continue till September, or (if very early bred\ 



3:^8 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



the middle of August. Before they begin to shift 
the long feathers in the tail, they are to be shut up 
m the basKet with the hen regularly every night. 
For such young pheasants as are chosen for breed- 
ing stock at home, and likewise to turn out in the 
following spring, provide a new piece of ground, 
large and roomy for two pens, where no pheasants 
&c. have been kept, and there put the young birds 
in as they begin to shift their tails. Such of them 
as are intended to be turned out at a future time, 
or m another place, put i.ito one pen netted over, 
and leave their wings as they are; and those want- 
ed for breeding put into the other pen, cutting one 
wing of each bird. The gold and silver phea- 
sants pen earlier, or they will be off. Cut the 
wing often; and Svhen first penned fee(J ^11 the 
young birds with barley-meal, dough, corn, plenty 
of green turnips, and alura curd, to make whi.ch, 
take new milk, as much as the young birds require, 
and boil it with a lump of alum, so as not to make 
the curd hard and tough, but custardlike. 

A little of this curd twice a day, and ants' eggs 
after eveiy time they have had a sufficient quanti- 
ty of the other food. If they do not eat heartily, 
give them some ants' eggs to create an appetite, but 
by no means in such abundance as to be consider- 
ed their food. 

Not more than four hens should be allowed in 
the pens to one cock. Never put more eggs un- 
der a hen than she can well and closely cover; the 
eggs being fresh and carefully preserved. Short 
broods to be joined and shifted to one hen; common 
hen pheasants in close pens, and with plenty of co- 
ver, will sometimes make their nests and hatch their 
own eggs: but they seldom succeed in rearing their 
brood, being so naturally shy; whence should this 
method be desired, they must be left entirely to 
themselves, as they feel alarm even in being looked 
at. Eggs for setting are generally ready in April. 
Period of incubation the same in the pheasant as in 
the common hpn. Pheasants, like the pea-fowl, will 
clear grounds of insects and reptiles, but will spoil 
all wall-trees within their reach, by pecking off 
every bud and leaf. 

Strict cleanliness to be observed, the meat not 
to be tainted with dung, and the water to be pure 
and often renewed. Food for grown pheasants, 
barley or wheat; generally the same as for other 
poultry. In a cold spring, hemp seed, or other 
warming seeds, are comfortable, and will forward 
,he breeding stock. 

To manage young chickens. 

The chickens first hatched, are to be taken from 
the hen, lest she be tempted to leave her task un- 
finished. They may be secured in a basket of 
wool or soft hay, and kept in a moderate heat; if 
Che weather be cold, near the fire. They will require 
.10 food for 24 hours, should it be necessary to 
iteep them so long from the hen. The whole 
■jrood being hatched, place the hen under a coop 
abroad, upon a dry spot, and, if possible, not with- 
in reach of another hen, since the chickens will 
mix, and the hens are apt to maim and destroy 
those which do not belong to them. Nor should 
they be placed near young fowls, which are likely 
to crush them, being always eager for their small 
meat. 

The first food should be split grits, afterwards 
tail wheat; all watery food, soaked bread, or pota- 
toes, being improper. Eggs boiled hard, or curd 
chopped small, is very suitable as first food. 
Their water should be pure, and often renewed, 
and there are pans made in such forms, that the 
chickens may drink without getting into the water, 
which, by wetting their feet and feathers, numbs 
and injures ihem; a basin in the middle of a pan 
pf water will answer the end; the water running 



round it. There is no necessity for cooping th« 
the brood beyond two or three days; but they may 
be confined as occasion requires, or suffered to 
range, as they are much benefited by the foraging 
of the hen. They should not be let out too early 
in the morning, whilst the dew lies upon the 
ground, nor be suffered to range over wet grass, 
which is a common and fatal cause of disease in 
fowls. Another caution requisite is to guard them 
against unfavourable changes of the weather, parti- 
cularly if rainy. Nearly all the diseases of fowls 
arise from cold moisture. 

For the period of the chickens quitting the hen, 
there is no general rule: when she begins to roost, 
if sufiiciently forward, they will follow her; if 
otherwise, they should be secured in a proper 
place, till the time arrives when they are to asso- 
ciate with the other young poultry, since the larger 
are sure to overrun and drive from their food the 
younger broods. 

I'o hatch chickens in the Egyptian mode. 

The tnamals or ovens of Egypt are scarcely above 
nine feet in height, but they have an extent in 
length and breadth which renders them remarka- 
ble, and yet they are more so in their internal 
structure. The centre of the building is a very 
narrow gallery, usually about the width of three 
feet, extending from one end of the building to the 
other, the height of which is from eight to nine 
feet; the structure for the most part of brick. The 
entrance into the oven is through the gallery, whitU 
commands the whole extent of it, and facilitates 
the several operations that are necessary to keep 
the eggs to the proper degree of heat. The oven 
has a door, not very wide, and only as high as it 
is broad; this door, and many others in use in the 
mamals, are commonly no more than round holes. 

The gallery is a corridor; with this difference 
from our common corridors, which have only one 
row of rooms, whereas that of the mamal has al- 
ways two rows of them on both sides; namely, one 
on the ground floor, and another above. Eyery 
one upon the ground floor has one above, perfectly 
equal, both in length and breadth. The rooms of 
each row on the ground floor, are all oqual, in 
length, breadth, and height. Reaumur observes, 
we know of no other rooms in the world, so low 
as these, being only three feet in height. Their 
breadth, which is in the same direction with tlie 
length of the gallery, is four or five feet; they are 
very narrow in proportion to their length, which 
is 12 or 15 feet. 

Every one of these rooms has its door or round 
aperture, about a foot and a half in diameter, open- 
ing into the gallery, thv bole being wide enough 
for a man to creep through. AH the eggs to be 
hatched are first ranged in these rooms. Four or 
five thousand eggs are put into each of them. These 
are the real ovens, so that the whole edifices, which 
is denominated a chicken oven, is an assemblage 
of many ovens set together, side by side, opposite 
and over each other; and in the course of tiie pro- 
cess a part of the eggs are warmed in the upper 
rooms, after having been previously in the lower. 

Forty or fifty thousand eggs are hatched at once, 
or another extends the number to eightj thousand. 
The eggs are spread on mats, flocks or flax, in each 
room upon the ground floor, where they contract 
their first and general warmth, during a certain 
number of days. 

The heat of the air in the inferior rooms, and 
consequently that of the eggs, would rise to an ex- 
cessive degree, were the fire in the gutter inces- 
santly kept up. Tney keep it up only an hour ii^ 
the morning, and an hour at night, and they style 
these heatings the dinner and supper of the chick- 
ens: tliey receive, however, two more meals, that 



RURAL AND DOMESTIC ECONOMY. 



359 



is, luncheon and afternoon meal, the fire being 
lighted four times a day. 

On the day on which they cease to light the 
fires, part of the eggs of each inferior room are 
alwa3's conveyed into the room above. The eggs 
had been too much heaped in the former, and it is 
now time to extend and give them more room. 

The proper number of eggs from each inferior 
room having been removed into the room above, 
all the apertures of the rooms and of the gallery 
are closely and exactly stopped with bungs of tow, 
excepting, perhaps, half the apertures in the 
arches or ceilings of the upper rooms; which are 
left open in order to procure there a circulation of 
air. This precaution is sufficient to preserve in 
the ovens, for many days togethf^r, the temperature 
which has been obtained; which indeed would be 
the case with ovens upon so considerable a scale in 
any country, more especially one so hot as Egypt. 
Three hundred and eighty-six ovens are kept in 
Egypt annually, during four or six months, allow- 
ing more time than is necessary to hatch eight suc- 
cessive broods of chickens, ducks, and turkeys, 
making on the whole yearly, threie thousand and 
eighty-eight broods. The number in each hatch- 
ing is not always equal, from the occasional diffi- 
culty of obtaining a sufficient number of eggs, 
which may be stated at a medium between the two 
extremes of forty and eighty thousand to each oven. 
The overseer contracts to return, in a living brood, 
to his employer, two-thirds of the number of eggs 
set m the ovens: all above being his own perquisite, 
in addition to his salary for the season, which is from 
SO to 40 crowns, exclusive of his board. Accord- 
ing to report, the crop of poultry tlms artificially 
raised in Egypt, was seldom, if ever, below that 
ratio, making the enormous annual amount of nine- 
ty-two million six hundred and forty thousand. 

The chickens are not sold from the stove by tale, 
but by the bushel, or basket full ! 

Excellent substitute for candles. 
Procure meadow-rushes, such as they tie the 
hop shoots to ttie poles with. Cut them when they 
have attained their full substance, but are still 
green. The rush, at this age, consists of a body 
of pith, wLh a green skin on it. Cut off both ends 
of the rush, and leave the prime part, which, on an 
average, may be about a foot and a half long. Then 
take oft'all the green skin ""xcept for about a fifth part 
of the way round the pith. Thus it is a piece of 
pith all but a little strip of skin in one part all the 
way up, which is necessary to hold the pith to- 
gether. 

The rushes being thus prepared, the grease is 
melted, and put, in a melted state, into something 
that is as long as the rushes are. The rushes are 
put into the grease; soaked in it sufficiently; then 
taken out and laid in a bit of bark, taken from a 
young tree, so as not to be too large. This bark is 
fixed up against the wall by a couple of straps put 
round it; and there it hangs for the purpose of hold- 
ing the rushes. 

The rushes are carried about in the hand; but 
to sit by, to work by, or to go to bed by, they are 
fixed in stands made for the purpose, some of 
which are high, to stand on the ground, and some 
low, to stand on a table. These stands have an 
iron part something like a pair of pliers to hold the 
rush in, and the rush is shifted foward from time 
to time, as it burns down to the thing that holds it. 
These rushes give a better light than a common 
small dip candle; and they cost next to nothing, 
though the labourer may, with them, have as much 
light as he pleases. 

To cultivate mustard. 
A yard square of ground, sown with common 
tnustard, the crop of which, ground for use in a 



little mustard-mill, as wanted, would save some 
money, and probably save life. The mustard 
would look brown, instead of yellow; but the for- 
mer colour is as good as the latter; and, as to the 
taste, the real mustard has certainly a much better 
taste than that of the drugs and flour which go un- 
der the name of mustard. Let any one trj' it, and 
he will never use the drugs again. The drugs, if 
taken freely, leave a burning at the pit of the 
stomach, which the real mustard does not. 
To cure herriiigs, pilchards, mackerel, sprats, &c 
Reservoirs of any size, vats, or casks, perfectly 
water-tight, should be about half filled with brine, 
made by dissolving about 28 parts of solid salt in 
72 of fresh water. The fish, as fresh as possible, 
gutted or not, must be plunged into this fully-satu- 
rated brine in such quantity as nearly to fill the 
reservoir; and, after remaining quite immersed foi 
five or six days, they will be fit to be packed a; 
usual, with large grained solid salt, and exported 
to the hottest climates. As brine is always weak- 
est at the upper part, in order to keep it of a uni- 
form saturation, a wooden lattice-work frame, of 
such size as to be easily let into the inside of the 
reservoir, is sunk an inch or two under the surface 
of the brine, for the purpose of suspending upon it 
lumps of 1 or 2 pounds, or larger, of solid salt, 
which effectually saturates M-hatever moisture may 
exude from the fish; and thus the brine will be 
continued of the utmost strength, so long as any 
part of the salt remains undissolved. The solid- 
ity of the lumps admits of their being applied 
several times, or whenever the reservoirs are re- 
plenished with fish; and tlie brine, although repeat- 
edly used, does not putrify; nor do the fish, if kept 
under the surface, ever become rancid. 

All provisions are best preserved by this method, 
especially bacon, which, when thus cured, is not 
so liable to become rusty, as when done by the 
usual method of rubbing with salt- 
Portable ice-house. 
Take an iron-bound butt, or puncheon, and 
knock out the head; then cut a very small hole in 
the bottom, about the size of a wine-cork. Place 
inside of it a wooden tub, shaped like a churn, 
resting it upon two pieces of wood, which are to 
raise it from touching the bottom. I'm the space 
round the inner tub with pounded charcoal; and fit 
to the tub a cover, with a convenient handle; hav- 
ing inside one or two small hooks, on which the 
bottles are to be hung, during the operation. Place 
on the lid a bag of pounded charcoal, about 2 feet 
square; and over all, place another cover, which 
must cover the head of the outer cask. 

When the apparatus is thus prepared, let it be 
placed in a cold cellar, and buried in the earth 
above four-fifths of its height; but, though cold, 
the cellar must be dry; wet ground will not answer 
and a sandy soil is the best. Fill the inner tub, or 
nearly so, with pounded ice; or, if prepared in 
winter, with snow well pressed down, and the ap- 
paratus will be complete. 

Whenever it is wished to make ices, take off the 
upper cover, then the sack or bag of pounded char- 
coal, and suspend the vessel containing the liquid 
to be frozen to the hooks inside of the inner cover j 
then close up the whole as before, for half an hour, 
when the operation will be complete, provided 
care be taken to exclude external air. 

To produce ice for culinary pu-poses. 
Fill a gallon stone bottle witli hot spring water, 
leaving ajout a pint vacant, and put in 2 oz. of re- 
fined nitre; the bottle must then be stopped very 
close, and let down into a deep well. After 3 or 
four hours it will be completely frozen; but the 
bottle must be broken to procure the ice. If the 
bottle is moved up and down, so as to be sometimes 



360 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



in and sometimes out ot the water, the consequent 
evaporation will hasten the process. The heating 
of the water assists the subsequent congelation; 
and experience has proved, that hot water in win- 
ter will freeze more rapidly than cold water just 
drawn from a spring. 

To make ice. 

The following is a simple and speedy method of 
congealing water: — 

Into a metal vase half filled with water, pour 
very gently an equal quantity of ether, so that no 
mixture may take place of the two liquids. The 
vase is placed under the receiver of an air-pump, 
which is so fixed upon its support as to remain 
quite steady when the air is pumped out. 

At the first strokes of the piston, the ether be- 
comes in a state of ebullition; it is evaporated to- 
tally in less than a minute, and the water remains 
converted into ice. 

To procure ice from a porvder. 

This is made by pulverizing and drying the 
shivery fragments of porphyritic trap, which will 
absorb one-fifth of its own weight of water. Two 
quarts of it, spread in a large dish, will, in a few 
minutes, in an exhausted receiver, freeze half of 
three quarters of a pound of water, in a cup of 
porous earthen ware. After each process its power 
will be restored by drying it before a fire, or in the 
sun; of course, ice may always be procured fronj 
it in hot climates. Experiments tried with oat- 
meal, have produced equal results. 

To char peats at the moss. 

The best method of charring peats where they 
are dug, is — when the peats are properly dried, 
wheel to the outside of the moss a single horse cart 
load of them. Level a spot of ground, about 7 feet 
in diameter, near to a drain, and drive a stake of 
wood into the ground, about 5 feet long; roll some 
dry heather or pol (the refuse of flax), round the 
stake, and lay some also upon the ground where 
the peats are to be placed; then set the peats upon 
and all round the stake, inclining to the centre, 
with a little dry heather or pol between each floor 
•f peat, until near the top, or last course: then 
'sy are laid in a horizontal direction; and the 
>cack when finished, is in the form of a bee-hive. 
The next operation is to set the stack on fire, 
which is done at the bottom all round; the fire will 
soon run up the post in the centre; and wlien the 
heather or pol is all consumed, the space forms a 
chimney, and occasions the stack to burn regularly. 
If the windward side should burn too fast, apply 
some wet turf. When the peats are thought to be 
sufiiciently burnt, which is easily known from the 
appearance of the smoke, apply wet turf and wa- 
ter from the adjoining drain as fast as possible, un- 
til the whole be extinguislied: — the charcoal may 
be removed upon the following day. 

To char peats for famly use. 

When charcoal is required for cookery, or any 
other purpose in the family, take a dozen or fif'een 
peats, and put them upon the top of the kitchen 
fire, upon edge; they will soon draw up the coal 
fire, and become red in a short time. After being 
turned about once or twice, and done with smoking, 
they are charred, and may be removed to the stoves; 
if more char is wanted, put on another supply of 
peats. By following this plan, the kitchen fire is 
kept up, and thus, with very little trouble, a sup- 
ply of the bf St charred peat is obtained, perfectly 
free from smoke; and the vapour by no means so 
noxious as charcoal made from wood. Peats char- 
red in this way may be used in a chafer, in any 
room, or even in a nursery, without any danger 
arising from the vapour. It would also be found 
"ery fit for the warming of beds; and much better 



than live coals; which are, m general, used full of 
suli)hur, and smell all over the house. 

Peats charred in a grate, and applied to the pur- 
pose of charcoal immediately, without being ex- 
tinguished, make the purest and best char^ and 
freest of smoke. When peats are charred in a 
large quantity, and extinguished, any part of the 
peat that is not thoroughly burnt in the heart, will 
imbibe moisture; and, when used, will smoke, and 
have a disagreeable smell, which would at once 
hinder charred peat from being used in a gentle- 
man's family. 

To make a cheap fuel. 

Mix coal, charcoal, or saw-dust, one part, sand 
of any kind, two parts, marl or clay, one part, in 
quantity as thought proper. Make the mass up 
wet, into balls of a convenient size; and when the 
fire is sufiiciently strong, place these balls, accord- 
ing to its size, a little above the top bar; and they 
will produce a heat considerably more intense than 
common fuel; and insure a saving of one half the 
quantity of coals. A fire then made up, will re- 
quire no stirring, and will need no fresh food for 
ten hours. 

To clean -water casks. 

Scour the inside well out with water and sand, 
and afterwards, apply a quantity of charcoal dust; 
another and better method is, to rinse them with 
a pretty strong solution of oil of vitriol and water, 
which will entirely deprive them of their foulness. 
To preserve eggs. 

Apply with a brush a solution of gum-arabic to 
the shells, or immerse the eggs therein, let them 
dry, and afterwards pack them in dry charcoal dust. 
This prevents their being affected by any altera- 
tions of temperature. 

Another method. 

Mix together in a tub, or vessel, one bushel, 
Winchester measure, of quick lime, thirty-two 
ounces of salt, eight ounces of cream of tartar, 
with as much water as will reduce the composition 
to a sufficient consistence to float an egg. Then 
put, and keep the eggs therein, which will pre- 
serve them perfectly sound for two years at least. 
A substitute for milk and cream. 

Beat up the whole of a fresh egg, vn a basin, 
and then pour boiling tea over it gradually, to pre- 
vent its curdling. It is difficult from the taste to 
distinguish the composition from rich cream. 
To cure butter. 

Take two parts of the best common salt, one 
part of sugar, and one part of salt-petre; beat them 
up and blend the whole together. Take one ounce 
of this composition, for every sixteen ounces of 
butter, woik it well into the mass, and close it up 
for use. 

Butter cured this way, appears of a rich mar- 
rowy consistence, and fine colour, and never ac- 
quires a brittle hardness, nor tastes salt. It will 
likewise keep good three years, only observing, 
that it must stand three weeks or a month, before, 
it is used. 
To remove the Aimip flavour from milk and butter 

Dissolve a little nitre in spring water, which 
keep in a bottlgj and put a small tea-cupful intc 
eight gallons of milk, when warm from the cow. 
To make butter, Dumbarton method. 

First scald the churn with boiling water to en- 
sure cleanliness, then, having put in tl»e cream, 
work it till the butter is separated from the milk, 
and put the former into a clean vessel. Next 
draw a corn sickle several times cross ways through 
it, for the purpose of extracting any hairs or su- 
perfluities which may adhere to i-t. IiCt the but- 
ter be put into spring water during this operation; 
which will prevent its turning soft; and which will 



ruraIj and domestic economy. 



361 



clear it likewise from any remn&nts of milk. 
Next mix with eveiy stone of butter, ten ounces 
of salt. Incorporate it well, otherwise the butter 
will not keep. In May and June, each stone cf 
butter will take one ounce more of salt, but after 
the middle of August, one ounce less will suffice. 
When made, put it into a well-seasoned kit, and 
shake a handful of salt ou the top, which will pre- 
serve it from mouldiness. In this way continue 
to make and salt the butter, placing one make upon 
the other, until the kit is full. Observe that the 
kit does not leak, as the liquor oozing through 
would occasion the butter to spoil. 

To make Cheshire cheese. 
It is necessary in making the best cheese to put 
m the new milk without skimming, and if any 
overnight's milk be mixed with it, it must be 
brought to the same natural warmth; into this put 
as much rennet as is just sufficient to come to the 
curd, and no more; for on this just proportion the 
mildness of the cheese is said to depend, a piece 
dried of the size of a worn sixpence, and put into 
a tea-cupful of water with a little salt, about twelve 
hours before it is wanted, is sufficient for 18 gal- 
lons of milk. The curd is next broken down, 
and, when separated from the whey, is put into a 
cheese vat, and pressed very dry; it is next broken 
very small by squeezing it With the hands. New 
curd is mixed with about half its quantity of yes- 
terday's, and which has been kept for that purpose. 
When the curds have been thus mixed, well press- 
ed and closed with the hands in a cheese-vat, till 
ney become one solid lump, it is put into a press 
for four or five hours, then taken out of the cheese- 
vat and turned, by means of a cloth put into the 
same for this purpose, and again put into the press 
for the night. It is then taken out, well salted, 
and put into the press again till morning, when it 
is taken out and laid upon a flag or board till the 
salt is q "ite melted, then it is wiped, put into a 
diy room, and turned every day, till it becomes 
dry enough for the market. 

To correct damaged grain. 

Put the injured article into an oven, from which 
the bread has been just drawn. Spread it in a bed, 
of from three to four inches in thickness, and stir 
it frequently with a shovel or rake, to facilitate the 
disep<^agement of the vapour. In ten or fifteen 
minutes, according to its humidity, withdraw it; 
when perfectly cool and aired, it will be restored 
to its wholesome qualities. 

Another method. 

Musty grain, totally unfit for use, and which can 
scarcely be ground, may be rendered perfectly 
. sweet and sound by simply immersing it in boiling 
water, and letting it remain till the water becomes 
cold. The quantity of water must be double that 
of the corn to be purified. The musty quality 
rarely penetrates through the husk of the wheat; 
and in the very worst cases, it does not extend 
through the amylaceous matter which lies imme- 
diately under the skin. In the hot water, all the 
decayed or rotten grains swim on the surface, so 
that the remaining wheat is effectually cleaned from 
all impurities, without any material loss. It is 
afterwards to be dried, stirring it occasionally on 
the kiln. 

To improve new seconds Jtour of bad quality. 

Mix common carbonate of magnesia well, in 
proportions of from 20 to 40 grains to a pound of 
flour; calcined magnesia will improve the bread, 
but not nearly to the same extent as the carbonate. 
It will improve the colour of bread made from new 
seconds flour, while it impairs the colour of bread 
from fine old and new flour. 

To preserve flour. 

Attach a number of lofts to every mill, so that 
2V 



the flour, in place of being thrust into sacks, the 
moment it escapes from the ft-iction of the stones, 
may be taken up by the machinery, and spread out 
to cool in the most careful manner. The violent 
friction if the stoies necessarily creates a great 
heat and steam; and if flour is thrust into sacks in 
this state, a chemical action will make it moist, 
soft, and'clammy. 

To preserve -wheat. 

Kiln dry it and put it in cubical cases of earthen- 
ware, glazed on the outside, and filled full as pos- 
sible; cover them by a piece of the same ware 
made to fit close, and secured with a mixture of 
pitch, tar, and hemp cloth, till the whole be made 
air tight. A case of this kind might be made 
which would hold four bushels or a quarter of 
wheat. 

To correct moist flour. 

In preparing the dough, let one-third of thefloui 
be kept unmixed, till the dough begins to rise, 
then add a little of the flour, and when it rises 
again, add a little more, and so on for four or five 
hours, till the whole of the flour is used. In this 
manner the mixture, which occasions a glistening 
appearance in the dough, will be taken up, and the 
bread, as is already mentioned, will be highly im- 
proved. 

To remove flies from rooms. 

Take half a tea-spoonful of black pepper, in 
powder, one tea-spoonful of brown sugar, and one 
table-spoonful of cream; mix them iveti together, 
and place them in the room, on a plate where the 
flies are troublesome, and they will soon disappear. 
To make excellent bread. 

Mix seven pounds of best flour, with three 
pounds of pared .boiled potatoes. Steam off the 
water, and leave them a few minutes on the fire, 
mash them fine, and mix them whilst quite warm 
in the flour, with a spoonful or more of salt. Put 
a quart of water, milk warm, with three large 
spoonsful of yeast, gradually to the potatoes and 
flour. Work it well into a smooth dough, and let 
it remain four hours before it is baked. 
To make bread iviih a very small quantity of yeast. 

Put one bushel of flour into the trough, mix 
three quarters of a pint of warm water, and one 
tea-spoonful of thick yeast well together; pour a 
small quantity in a hole made in the centre of the 
flour large enough to contain two gsllons of water; 
then stir with a stick, about two feet long, some 
of the flour, until it is as thick as pudding^ batter. 
Strew some of the dry flour over it, and let it rest 
for an hour, then pour about a quart more water, 
and having stirred it as before, leave it for two 
hours, and then add a gallon more of warm water. 
Stir in the flour again, and in about four hours 
more, mix up the dough, and cover it warm; in 
about four hours more you may put it in the oven, 
and as light bread will be obtained as though a pint 
of yeast had been used. 

To prepare bread in the method of the London 
baker's. 

Sift a sack of flour into the kneading trough; 
add six pounds of salt, and twu pounds of alum, 
dissolve them separately in a paleful of water 
(cooled to 90 degrees Fahr. ) with two quarts of 
yeast. Stir it well, and strain it through a cloth 
or sieve; afterwards mix it with the flour into a 
dough, next cover it up with cloths'and shut down 
the trough lirt close to retain the heat. In two 
hours more, mix in another pailful of warm water 
with the sponge, and again cover it up for two 
hours. After this knead it for more than an hour, 
with three pailsful of warm water. Keturn the 
dough to the trough, sprinkle it with dry flour, and 
in four hours' time, knead it well for about hjilf 
an hour, when it will be fit to mould into loaves. 

2 F 



362 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



To prepare household bread. 

Mix four ounces of salt, three quarts oi water, 
s pint of yeast, and a peck of seconds flour, in a 
trough; -when properly fermented, knead and di- 
vide it into loaves. Sometimes a portion of lye- 
meal, rice, flour, or boiled potatoes, are mixed 
witli the flour previous to the kneading, the two 
former serve to bind the bread, the latter cause it 
to be open and spongy. 

'To produce one-third more bread from a given 
quantity of corn. 

Boil a bushel of the coarsest bran, in seven gal- 
lons of water for one hour, keep stirring it, that 
it may not stick to the bottom, then pour it off 
into a trough, or tub full of holes, over which lay 
a coarse cloth or sieve. On the top of the whole 
put a wooden cover, with a weight sufficiently 
heavy to press out the liquor from the bran, which 
will sink to the bottom of the tub in a thick pulp. 
This liquor will contain the essential oil of the 
corn, and when kneaded in with a proper propor- 
tion of flour, it will yield one-third more than the 
same quantity would, made with water in the usual 
way. 

To make French bread. 

Put a pint of milk into three quarts of water. 
In winter let it be scalding hot, but, in summer, 
little more than milk- warm: put in salt sufficient. 
Take a pint and a half of good ale yeast, free from 
bitterness, and lay it in a gallon of water the night 
before. Pour oft' the yeast into the milk and water, 
and then break in rather more than a quarter of a 
pound of butter. Work it well till it is dissolved; 
then beat up two eggs in a basin, and stir them in. 
Mix about a peck and half of flour willi the liquor, 
and, in winter, make the dough pretty stiflT, but 
more slack in summer; mix it well, and the less 
it is worked the better. Stir the liquor into flour, 
as for pie-crust, and after the dough is made, co- 
ver it with a cloth, and let it lie to rise, while the 
oven is heating. When the loaves have lain in a 
quick oven about a quarter of an hour, turn them 
on the other side for about a quarter of an hour 
longer. Then take them out, and chip them with 
a knife, which will make them look spongy, and 
of a fine yellow, whereas rasping takes off this 
fine colour, and renders their look less inviting. 
To make -wholesome mixed bread. 

Take of rice 3 lbs.; boil it in a sufficient quan- 
tity of water till reduced to a soft pulp, then rub 
it with 6 lbs. of mealy potatoes, cooked by steam, 
and, when well blended, add 6 lbs. of flour; make 
the whole into a dough with water, and ferment 
with yeast, in the usual manner. 

To make bran bread. 

To four pounds ot best household flour, put two 
table-spoonsful of small beer yeast, and a half pint 
of warm water; let it stand two hours in a warm 
place. Add half a pound of bran, and a tea-spoon- 
ful of salt; make the dough with skim milk or 
warm water; cover it up, and let it stand an hour. 
Put the loaves into warm dishes, and let them 
stand 20 minutes before thev go into the oven. 
Jj.nother method. 

Mix with half a peck of flour, containing the 
whole of the bran, a quarter of a pint of small 
beer ycust, and a quart of lukewarm water; stir it 
well with a wooden spoon until it becomes a thick 
batter, then put a napkin over the dough, and set 
. t about three feet from the fire, until it rises well. 
Add, if requisite, a little more warm water, strew 
over it a table-spoonful of salt, and make the whole 
into a stiff paste. Put it to the fire, and when it 
rises, again knead it into the dough. If baked in 
tin$, the loaves will be improved. 

To make leaven bread. 

Take ab'jut two pounds of dough of the last 



making, which has been raised by barm • keep it 
in a wooden vessel, covered well with flour. This 
will become leaven when sufficiently sour. Work 
this quantity into a peck of flour with warm water. 
Cover the dough close with a cloth, or flannel, and 
keep it in a warm place; further mix it next morn- 
in with two or three bushels of flour, mixed up 
with warm water and a little salt. When the 
dough is thoroughly made, cover it as before. As 
soon as it rises, knead it well into loaves. Ob- 
serve in this process, that the more leaven is put to 
the flour, the lighter the bread will be, and the 
fresher the leaven, the less sour it will taste. 

To make four quartern loaves for family use. 

Procure a peck of flour, with which mix a hand- 
ful of salt to three quarts of water, and add half a 
pirt of good fresh yeast. Work the whole well 
together, and set it to I'ise at a moderate distance 
from the fire, from two to three hours. Then di- 
vide it into four equal parts, put it into tins, and 
send it to the baker's. 

The London bakers, to give their flour a facti- 
tious whiteness, boil alum in the water; but such 
means will not be resorted to in any private fa- 
mily. 

To make cheap bread. 

Take pumpkins, and boil them in water until it 
is quite thick, and, with the decoction mix flour so 
as to make dough. This makes an excellent 
bread. The proportion is increased at least one 
fourth, and it keeps good a length of time. 
Another method. 

Birkenmayer, a brewer of Constance, has suc- 
ceeded in manufacturing bread from the farina- 
ceous residue of beer. Ten pounds of this species 
of paste, one pound of j'east, five pounds of ordi- 
nary meal, and a handful of salt, produce 12 pounds 
of black bread, both savouiy and nourishing. 
To make bread of Iceland moss and flour. 

This vegetable may be used alone, or ^ith flour 
in the making of bread. Boil seven pounds of li- 
chen meal in 100 pints of water; and afterwards 
mix the same with 69 lbs. of flour, and when bak- 
ed, the product will be 160 lbs. of good house- 
hold bread. Whereas, without this addition, the 
flour would not produce more than 79 lbs. of bread. 
To prepare it, use 1 lb. of lichen meal in the form 
of paste, to about 3J lbs. of flour. 

To make bread on JMr Cobbet's plan. 

Suppose the quantity be a bushel of flour. Put 
this flour into a trough that people have for the 
purpose, or, it may be in a clean smooth tub of 
any shape, if not too deep, and sufficiently large. 
Make a pretty deep hole in the middle of this heap 
of flour. Take (for a bushel) a pint of good fresh 
yeast, mix it and stir it well up in a pint of 
soft Avater milk-warm. Pour this into the hole in 
the heap of flour. Then take a spoon and work 
it round the outside of this body of moisture, so 
as to bring into it by degrees flour enough to make 
it form a thin batter, which must be stirred about 
well for a minute or two. Then take a handful 
of flour and scatter it thinly over the head of this 
batter, so as to hide it. Then cover the whole 
over with a cloth to keep it warm; and this cover- 
ing, as well as the situation of the trough, as to 
distance from the fire, must depend on the nature 
of the place and state of the weather, as to heat 
and cold. When the batter has risen enough to 
make cracks in the flour, begin to form the whole 
mass into dough, thus: begin round the hole con- 
taining the batter, working the flour into the bat- 
ter, and pouring in as it is wanted to make the 
flour mix with the batter, soft water, milk-wai-m, 
or milk. Before beginning this, scatter the salt 
over the heap, at the rate of half a pound to a bush- 
el of flour. When the whole is sufficiently moist. 



RURAL AND DOMESTIC ECONOMY. 



363 



<rnead it well. This is a grand part of the busi- 
ness; for, unless the dough be well worked, there 
will be little round lumps of flour in the loaves; 
and besides the original batter, which is to give 
fermentation to the whole, will not be duly mixed. 
It must be rolled over, pressed out, folded up, and 
pressed out again, until it be completely mixed, 
and formed into a stiff and tough dough. 

When the dough is made, it is to be formed into 
« lump in the middle of the trough, and, with a 
little dry flour thinly scattered over it, covered 
over again to be kept warm and to ferment; and 
in this state, if all be done rightly, it will not have 
to remain more than about 15 or 20 minutes. 

The oven should be hot by the time that the 
dough has remained in the lump about 20 minutes. 
When both are ready, take out the fire and wipe 
the oven clean, and at nearly the same moment, 
take the dough out upon the lid of the baking 
trough, or some proper place, cut it up into pieces 
and maKe it up into loaves, kneading it again in 
these separate parcels: shaking a little flour over 
the board, to prevent the dough adhering to it. 
The loaves should be put into the oven as quickly 
fts possible after they are formed; when in, the 
oven lid or door should be fastened up very close- 
ly; and, if all be properly managed, loaves, of 
•bout the size of quartern loaves, will be sufiicient- 
fy baked in about ^ hours. But they usually take 
iown the lid, and look at the bread, in order to see 
aow it is going on. 

To detect adulteration in bread. 

Run into the crumb of a loaf, one day old, the 
olade of a knife considerably heated; and if adul- 
terated with alum, it will show its unwholesome 
adherenees on the surface: and it may be further 
detected by the smell. Bone-dust or plaster of 
Paris may be discovered, by slicing the soft part 
of a loaf thin, and soaking it in a large quantity 
of water in an earthen vessel, placed over a slow 
fire three or four hours. Then having poured off 
the water and pap, the obnoxious matter will be 
found at the bottom. 

To preserve houses from vermin. 

Bugs, in particular, may readily be destroyed by 
dissolving half a drachm of corrosive sublimate in 
a quarter of an ounce of spirit of salts, mixing it 
with one quart of spirit of turpentine. Shake 
these well together, dip a brush in it, and wash 
those places where bugs are supposed to resort: 
this will remove them to a greater certainty than 
any other mode now practised. 



MANAGEMENT OF BEES. 

To work bees in glass hives. 

To produce the finest virgin honey, without the 
cruel practice of destroying the bees, and having 
the opportunity of seeing them at their labours, a 
double-topped straw hive has been invented by Mr 
John Molton, and is so constructed as to support 
four glasses; which may be removed with safety, 
and the bees kept warmer and more secure than 
in any other hives. 

Hive a swarm in the lower part of the hive in 
the usual way. The board at- the top must be 
kept close by taking care to secure the openings; 
this is done by turning the top board by means of a 
thumb screw, so that when first hived, the holes 
of both boards shall not correspond, and by thus 
turning the upper board, it will prevent the bees 
from passing through, while hiving. At night, 
bring the hive into the bee house, or where it is 
intended to stand; in about two days afttr place on 
the glasses, (which should be clean) over their re- 
tsective openii'gs, and stop them round with mor- 



tar: after which, turn the board to admit the bees 
to ascend for the purpose of working, cover the 
glasses with the small upp^r hive, and do not look 
at them for a few days. Indeed, nothing will then 
be necessary, but to ascertain when they are filled, 
which is known by the cell being sealed over, which 
may be expected in about 20 days after a swarm 
has been hived. 

When the honey is to be taken, and all the 
glasses removed, it will be requisite first to turn 
the board to exclude the bees; then with a thin 
knife loosen them from the adapter; leave them 
thus for about an hour; then can-y the glasses in- 
verted a short distance from the hive into the shade; 
or raise the glasses with a small wedge, and what 
few bees remain will readily leave and return to 
their original hive. This, if effected early in the 
season, will afford the opportunity of immediately 
replacing the same, or another set of glasses to be 
again f. -led. 

Observe, if wanted at any time to take only 
one or two of the glasses with honey, do not turn 
the board; as by so doing the combs are disunited, 
and the bees themselves will then empty the re- 
maining glasses (although afterwards re-fill them, 
which might occasion a loss of time in the best 
part of the season for working); to simplify which, 
only loosen such glasses as are wished to be re- 
moved, with a thin knife, set them on a divider, 
and replace others in their stead. The middle of 
a fine day is the best time to remove glasses. 

It will not be advisable to take any honey from 
the hive after the end of Jul}', as the remaining 
part of the season misjht not prove favourable to 
their gathering enough for their winter support; 
therefore, it will be necessaiy, about this time, or 
early in August, to remove all the glasses and turn 
the board, to finally shut them up. 

Those glasses, only partly filled with combs, 
should be carefully set aside, to be placed on again 
the following April; if, however, the stock will 
require feeding, leave one or more of the glasses 
with honey for that purpose, which is by far the 
best mode. 

Thus much for the swarm which is left ti.i the 
following April — the time to commence again 
working the glasses, as hives are now full of combs 
and brood, should the season prove favourable, 
work the glasses twice or more, and equal success 
will attend every subsequent corresponding year; 
but the first season a swarm cannot be expected to 
fill, the glasses more than once, wLich will produce 
8 pounds of the finest honey. — This method of 
management will not prevent the bees from swarm- 
ing. 

The honey thus obtained, being fresh from the 
hive, will be of the finest quality, pure, perfectly 
free from the young brood, of remarkably fine 
fragrance, clear in coloui, and very far superior to 
any produced from common hives; it may also be 
taken at pleasure without injury to the bees — espe- 
cially without being obliged to resort at any time 
to the painful and execrable process of smothering 
these industrious and valuable insects. 
To work bees in straw hives. 

The double cottage straw hive will answer many 
purposes in the keeping of bees, as either a glass 
or a small straw hive may be worked on the top of 
it, which gives it an advantage over the common 
hive, although the method of muaagement is sim- 
ple, and the price easy. 

Prepare this hive for a swarm by spreading mor- 
tar round the crown of it, to carry the adapter to 
support a glass or small straw hive, as it may be 
worked with either. Hive the swarm as usual, 
taking care to secure the opening at the top; after 
removing it to its api'^nte'*! place, let t*ie swan^ 



364 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



work for ten days; then clear the opening at top, 
and affix on either a glass or a small straw hive — 
the bees will then ascend for working.. Stop the 
upper hive round with mortar to the adapter, and 
darken it with a common hive; m the course of 
from fifteen to twenty days examine it, and if full, 
take the honey as here directed: — pass a knife or 
wire between the adapter and small hive to sepa- 
rate the combs; after which remove the small hive 
of honey on a divider (a brass plate about twelve 
inches square); it will then be immediately neces- 
sary to place a small hive on the adapter, or stop 
the opening till another hive is to be worked. 
Carry the small hive now on the divider a short dis- 
tance away, or rather inio a darkened room; invert 
it, and place over it a small empty hive of the same 
size; keep them steady, and, by tapping round 
the bottom hive, the bees, in a few minutes, will 
ascend to the hive above; carry them to within 
about two yards of their original stock, shake them 
out, and they will enter again as usual. 
To tvork bees in a box hive. 

This elegant box hive consists of three divisions, 
and is so ingeniously constructed, that the finest 
honey may be taken without destroying the bees; 
work a glass hive on the top, and inspect the whole 
of their curious and interesting labours without 
disturbing them. 

When a swarm is placed in this hive, shut the 
slider of the adapter; tie a small cord round to se- 
cure the parts; hive the swarm in the usual man- 
ner; at night bring it into the bee-house, or place 
appointed; open the entrance at bottom anc^Semove 
the cord; if a glass hive is worked on the top, 
place it on the same evening; stop it round, then 
draw back the slider to clear the grate, leave it a 
few minutes, and the bees will ascend for working. 
Then raise the two upper divisions to be able to 
remove the bottom division, and by the compres- 
sion the bees are obliged to work in the glass hive, 
which should be darkened with its proper cover, 
snd left for a few days without being looked at; it 
will be necessary to replace the unemployed divi- 
sion at the bottom four or five days previous to the 
removal of the glass of honey: in removing which 
shut the slider and leave it in this state for one 
hour; then follow those plain directions laid down 
for the removal of glass hives. 

If more honey is wanted from this hive than the 
glass affords, examine the divisions early in Sep- 
tember; if the ':hree are full, viz. the two upper 
hives of honey and the bottom of combs; and not 
otherwise, proceed to remove the fillets of the top 
division, and pass the brass divider between those 
parts, where ii should remain for an hour; then 
raise the division with a wedge, and draw back the 
slider of the adapter to let the bees out, and when 
clear, which will be in a few miinutes, remove this 
division and place the adapter to the next division, 
and by withdrawing the divider it will fit close 
down; when the combs of honey are taken out 
from this division, it should be replaced at the bot- 
tom; consequently, evei^r year, or once in two 
years, gives them, as it were, a fresh division, or 
part of a hive to rebuild in, which keeps the bees 
constantly at work, and the combs in a good state 
of preservation. 

To ■work bees in a hexagon box hive and straw 
hive. 

This box hive is admirably constructed with sli- 
der and grating, having large glass windows, and 
supporting a glass hive on the top, that, when well 
supplied with bees, it aflfords the pleasing opportu- 
nity of viewing the progress of their labours, and 
exhibits avwy interesting and beautiful appear- 
ance. 



To hive a swarm, it is only necessar)' to shut the 
slider over the grating, and then proceed as before 
directed. (When a glass hive is to be worked, fol- 
low the instructions given with the superior box 
hive.) This hive is the best calculated to work 
bees from other hives, especially when they are in 
a state of decay, particularly the common hive — it 
is effected merely by withdrawing the slider clear 
of the grate, and placing the common hive over it 
in the evening, taking care to stop the entrance of 
the former witn mortar. The bees will of course 
then enter at bottom, and when they have worked the 
bottom hive nearly fuL, which is ascertained by 
means of the windows, carefully lift them up, and 
place under them another hexagon hive; conse- 
quently, this colony consists of three hives, and it 
will not be safe to remove the upper hive, unless 
the bees have worked combs into the bottom hive, 
which, if effected at the end of the season, the 
common hive may be safely taken with its contents. 
To -work bees in the common hiv&. 

This hive being in such general use in this coun- 
try for many years, requires but little observation, 
except on some essential points; which, to benefit 
the cultivator, ought to be attended to. First, care 
should be taken to have the hive made of clean 
and good straw, and manufactured of a suitable 
thickness. Some hives are so thin and loose, as 
to require many days of the most valuable time of 
the swarm to render the hive fit for their use. 

Secondly, a hive should be chosen in proportion 
to the size of the swarm; and when a good hive is 
obtained, and a swarm placed in it, which should 
fill it to within a rim or two of the bottom, shel- 
ter it from cold winds and rain; for, if once the 
wet penetrates a hive, it affects the combs, and the 
bees, getting a distaste for their home, will work 
very slowly, and often desert it altogether; where- 
as, if they have a hive to their liking, leave them 
unmolested, and they will soon furnish it with 
combs and honey. It is not material in what as- 
pect the stock stands, provided the sun shines on 
the hive once in the course of the day. Well peo- 
pled hives, kept dry, will thrive in most situations. 

One of those fatal accidents to which this hive is 
subject, occurs, through covering it with a hackle or 
turf, by which their great enemy, the mouse, is 
enticed, who will make a nest on the top, and ulti- 
mately eat its way through the crown of the hive, 
and destroy both combs and bees. 

About August the robbing commences by bees 
and wasps, which is but little regarded; an im- 
portant benefit will be derived by destroying the 
queen wasp, seen about April, which is tlie mo- 
ther of thousands; much therefore depends on the 
preservation of those hives which are to stand the 
winter. To protect them, apply the guard invent- 
ed by Mr Espinasse, which is calculated to prove 
highly beneficial in its effects. 

In September, attention should be directed to 
weigh the stocks; none of those of less than from 
1,5 to 20 lbs. in weight can safely be relied on to 
stand the winter, without feeding; and stop all 
hives down to the board with mortar. 
To establish an apiary. 

The best time to establish an apiary is about 
February, as the stocks have passed through the 
winter in safety — the combs are then empty of 
brood, light of honey, and the removal safe and 
easy. Stocks should be selected by a competent 
judge, as the weight alone cannot always be re- 
lied on; but such as weigh 12 lbs. and upwax-ds — 
the number of bees must also be . observed, and 
that they are well combed to near the bottom — 
these may be safely chosen. 

When they are brought home set them in the 



RURAL AND DOMESTIC ECONOMY. 



36 h 



bee-house, being particularly careful to keep tliem 
dry. The next day, plaster the hive to the board, 
leaving an entrance the size of the little finger. 

If tliis season has passed, purchase the first and 
early swarms; for late ones or casts are not worth 
keeping, unless two or three have been united. 

To remove stocks, the evening is the best time; 
the ■;■'"" should be raised by wedges some hours 
previutii, iSijl^Rs the floor be also moveable with 
the hive — otherwise, many bees will remain on 
the floor at the time, and prove very troublesome. 
But when the door is moveable, plaster the hive 
with mortar to the board; pin a card pierced with 
holes before the entrance, securing the hive to the 
board firmly; in this way it would travel any dis- 
tance. 

Swarms purchased should be brought home the 
same evening; for if delayed for a day or two, 
combs will be worked, and subject to be broken in 
removing. 

" To cultivate bee-Jloivers. 

Bees are most fond of those places where their 
favourite flowers are to be found; .nerefore bee- 
keepers should encourage the growth of such 
shrubs and flowers as are known to supply honey 
and wax in the greatest abundance; in most situa- 
tions bees do not fly far for food, generally not 
more than half a mile; they may be observed to 
return with great precipitation to the hive when 
rain or a storm approaches. The following are the 
most favourable for pasturage, and those which 
blossom early are the most desirable; 



Shrubs, £Jc. 

Sallow, or the gray wil- 
low. 

Rosemary. 

Barberry-tree. 

Gooseberry. 

Raspberry. 

Apricot and all other 
fruit-trees. 

Lime-trees. 

Furze. 

Broom. 

lieath. 



Flowers. 
Mignonette. 
Lemon thyme. 
Garden and wild thyme. 
Borage. 
Winter savory. 
Hyssop. 

Mustard. ^1 ^.^^„ 

Turnips. U^^^^^^ 

Cabbage. r^^^ 

White clover. J 
Scarlet and other beans 
when in bloom. 



Mignonette, borage, and lemon thyme are the 
principal, as they continue very long in bloom, and 
afibrd the finest honey. Rosemary is also a great 
favourite, but seldom supplies much honey in this 
country, unless the weather proves very hot and 
dry when it is in blossom, yet it is worth cultivat- 
ing, especially in a southern sspect, being one ef 
the principal aromatic plants from which the bees 
in the neighbourhood of Narbonue collect their 
honey, which is esteemed the finest in Europe. 
Fields of beans, white clover, and buck wheat, are 
of great benefit. Rivers or streams of water are 
also very beneficial, as bees make use of a great 
deal of water. 

To swarm bees. 

Swarming depends on the increase of bees, and 
a queen being ready to lead them. Their breed- 
ing begins sooner or later, according to the for- 
wardness of the spring, the fruitfulness of the 
queen, and the populousness of the hive. When 
bees carry in farina or pellets on their thighs, it 
denotes they have commenced breeding, which 
may be as early as February, and not finish till 
October; and when their numbers are much in- 
creased they show indications of swarming, by 
tlieir clustering in great quantities below the rest- 
ing board. They never rise but on a fine day, and 
sometimes will settle, and for some cause return 
to the stock, probably for want of a queen being 
with them. Some Lives will cast three times, but 
mostly only twice. Thi> second east may be ex- 



j pected within three or fouf days, and never later 
than ten days after the first. Should a stock over- 
! swarm itself it will perish, unless strengthened} 
this may be ascertained by observing the quantity 
! cf bees afterwards seen to enter. It is necessary 
m the swarming season, from April to July, parti- 
cularly in May and Jure, to observe the hives on 
a fine day; in general the bees issue forth about 
noon — from 9 to 2 o'clock, or about 3 in the after- 
noon. 

To hive bees. 

Bee keepers should have spare hives by them, 
prepared to hive the bees as soon as they are set- 
tled: for should the sun shine hot upon the swarm 
it may take another flight, and may poss'My be lost 
entirely. The manner of hiving tiiem must be 
regulated by the nature of the place on which they 
settle. The custom of preparing hives varies; a 
clean new liive only requires the loose straw to be 
rubbed off" with a cloth: if any dressmg be used, 
fennel dipped in ale and sugar will best answer the 
purpose. Have ready a cloth whereon to place the 
hive, and a wedge to raise it: if the swarm should 
settle on a branch, shake the best part of it into 
the hive, place it on the cloth on the ground, and. 
continue to disturb the swarm where it settled, and 
the hive being left underneath, they will all go in; 
or cut the branch off, and gently place it in the 
hive. Should the bees settle on the ground, place 
the hive over them; and though bees are not apt to 
sting at this time, the hiving should be performed 
quietly. Avoid talking and breathing on them, 
and if any of them are crushed, they will resent 
it; therefore, to prevent accident, invariably use 
the bee-dress, which will give confidence. All 
swarms are to be sheltered and left near to where 
they settle till the evening; thence to be removed 
very gently to the appointed place. 

To mdte swarms, aiid reinforce stocks. 

It is essential when there are weak swarms of 
bees, that they should be strengthened. The idea, 
so prevalent, of the greatest number of hives pro- 
ducing the most honey and wax, is erroneous; for 
great part of the bees are necessarily employed in 
rearing the young, and therefore 'ne number of 
those who are occupied in collecting honey is not 
near so great as has been imagined; for every 
swarm, the least as well as the greatest, is pro 
vided with a queen, equal in fecundity to the queen 
of the lai'ger stock, and as the brood she brings 
continually demands the labour and attendance of 
nearly half the bees, this circumstance renders the 
other moiety, from the smallness of their number 
unable to accumulate a large quantity of honey in 
the short time it mostly abounds, and therefore 
honey cannot be obtained in glass hives or other- 
wise, but from a strongly-peopled hive. 

Hive the swarms or casts in the usual way, and 
i at about 8 o'clock the same evening spread a cloth 
on the ground, near to the hive required to be re- 
inforced; bring the new swarm, and strike it down 
rather hard, flat on the ground. The bees will 
then fall in a cluster; quickly place over them the 
stock to be reinforced; in ten minutes they will 
have united and become as one family, to be remov- 
ed the same evening to its former situation. 

Or, each cast or swarm m:<y be hived separately. 
In the evening, turn the crown of the hive into a 
pail, and set the other hive exactly over it; in the 
morning, the bees from the bottom hive will have 
ascended. 

The system of u;.iting, so very important, is but 
little practised, and has been overlooked by many 
cultivators; but it is absolutely necessary to have 
the hives well peopled and completely sheltered 
from wet, which are the principal and main objects 
to bn particularly attended to in the art of bee 

o, p 2 



366 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



keeping; and the advantages of uniting swarms 
will be found particularly beneficial in working 
the glasses with the newly invented double-topped 
hives. 

To feed bees. 
With the aid of feeding it is perfectly easy to 
bring any hive of bees through the winter; but to 
ensure the success of a very light stock, it is es- 
sential to keep it also very warm and dry. Feed- 
ing is absolutely necessary when more honey has 
been taken than the hive can afford, by means of 
small hives or glasses. Such stocks as are intend- 
ed to be kept through the winter should weigh 20 
pounds or upwards, at the end of September; but 
casts and 'ate swarms seldom attain this weight, 
unless two or more should have been united. The 
composition for feeding consists of moist sugar and 
new beer, the proportion of one pound of sugar to 
a pint of beer, simmered to the consistency of 
treacle: to be inserted into the hives, by means of 
small troughs, at night, and removed the next 
morning early. Should a hive be very poor and 
weak, it is better to feed in larger quantities each 
time. 

, Anr,:her method. 

" Have a thick wooden hoop about six inches deep, 
to set upon the board when the hive is taken up, 
and set honey-combs, with the natural honey in 
them, or filled with sugar a little moistened, and 
set the hive upon it. A piece of an old hive will 
make a good hoop. Old empty combs should be 
carefully kept covered up with a piece of thin linen 
or muslin, in a very clean place for feeding the 
bees. Weak hives should be removed at a dis- 
tance from the rest, when tLey must be fed; if 
near, the strong will rob them. Remove them in 
the following manner: — take up the board with 
the hive, tie a cloth firm over it, and with a hand- 
barrow, carry it gently between two where it is in- 
tended to be placed. Troughs of pithy wood, fil- 
led with moistened sugar or honey, and thrust in 
at the aperture of the hive, is a good method of 
feeding. Be sure when raising a hive from the 
board, to fix it down again with plaster lime. 

Be not hasty in concluding a hive is dead though 
the bees seem inactive. Expose them at mid-day, 
turned upon a white sheet, where the sun is most 
powerful, for half an hour; then house them in a 
warm place, where neither noise, bad smells, nor 
light can annoy them. 

If wanted to purchase a hive, defer it till May. 
Set careful persons to watch at several stalls that 
they may reckon, by watch time, every loaded bee 
that comes in for 10 or 15 minutes. That which 
has most labourers should be the choice. All the 
refuse honey, after draining the best in jars, should 
be kept in a clean place for feeding the bees. 
Improved machine for feeding bees. 
Prepare a board a little larger than the bottom 
of the hive, in the centre of which make an open- 
ing about 10 inches diumeter; then form a frame 
of half inch deal, to consist of four sides, each 
about twelve inches by three inches; make the an- 
gles firm with small wooden blocks, to which affix 
the before-mentioned board. A door should then 
be made in a side of the frame, sufiicienviy large 
to admit a deep plate, or small dish, to contain I'je 
%od. By the use of this machine, the bees are 
ied quietly, and protected from the cold weather 
and the intrusion of other bees. It is scarcely ne- 
cessary to observe further, that the door of the 
machine should face such part of the bee-house as 
.^eat suits convenience. The dish of food to be 
placed under should be covered with a piece of 
'.hick paper the size of the plate or dish, pierced 
in holes, through which the bees will feed; and a 
quantity of short pieces of straw also put into 



the dish will prevent the bees from daubing them, 
selves. They should be fed at night, and the dish 
only taken away early on the following morning, 
to do this, the face and hands should be covered. 
The autumn and early partof th<; spring are times 
proper to examine if any hives require feeding; 
but always commence before the stock is in abso- 
lute want of food, otherwise the bees will be so 
poor and weak as to be unable to come down. 
To manage honey. 
To judge of the best honey, it should be of a 
bright pale colour, thick, and a little aromatic. 
To obtain it from the combs in its pure state, it 
must be left to run from them without pressing. 
The colour shows whether it is fine or inferior. 
If wanted to press some in the comb, choose the 
fairest and such as have not been broken: wrap 
each comb in white paper, such as lines the blue 
cover of loaf sugar. Set it edgeways as it stood 
in the hive, and it may be preserved many months. 
The combs meant to be drained, must be cut in 
slices. Lay them on a hair-search, supported by 
a rack over the jar, in which the honey is to remain; 
for the less it is stirred after draining, it keeps the 
better. Fill the jar to the brim, as a little scum 
must be taken oft' when it has settled. A bladder, 
well washed in lukewarm water, ought to be laid 
over the double fold of white, paper with which it 
is covered. 

To take the honey xuithout destroying the bees. 
The following easy method of takin'g the honey 
without destroying the bees, is generally practised 
in France. In the dusk of the evening, when the 
bees are quietly lodged, approach the hive, and 
turn it gently over. Having steadily placed it in 
a small pit, previously dug to receive it, with its 
bottom upwards, cover it with a clean new hive, 
which has been properly prepared, with a few 
sticks across the inside of it, and rubbed with aro- 
matic herbs. Having carefully adjusted the mouth 
of each hive to the other, so ihat no aperture re- 
mains between them, take a small stick, and beat 
gently round the sides of the lower hive for about 
ten minutes, or a quarter of an hour, in which 
time the bees will leave their cells in the lower 
hive, ascend, and adhere to the upper one. Then 
gently lift the new hive, with all its little tenants, 
and place it on the stand from which the other 
hive was taken. This should be done some time 
in the week preceding midsummer day, that the 
bees may have time, before the summer flowers, 
are faded, to lay in a new stock of honey, which 
th'^y will not fail to do for their subsistence' through 
winter. 

To manage bees generally. 
The best situation for bees is to the north, with 
a range of hills wooded on the summit, and toward 
the base, enriched with heather, skirted to the 
east with a stream from the rocks. To confine 
this rivulet, the bee-master should sow the sandy 
beech with the seed of furze, and cover it with a 
light surface of earth. The furze would soon 
vegetate; and blooming, in the course of three 
years, overpay his labour, by providing the bees 
with pasture on soil otherwise barren, and the mar- 
gin of the brook would gradually rise to restrain 
its encroachment on fertile lands. Suppose a white 
clover field to the south of the hills, and south 
from the field a large garden, where hardy winter 
greens have been allowed to flower, as early food 
for the bees. White mustard should also be sown 
very early in patches near tne hive; but not nearer 
than one yard. A few dwarf flowers may come 
within two feet, but tall grown ones would assist 
insects to get up. To the west, it would be de- 
sirable to have a shrubbery, a wood, a broomy. 
common, or heather moor. 



RURAL AND DOMESTIC ECONOiMY, 



367 



The stations for the hives must be six yai-ds 
asnnder, and never nearer than three yards. The 
board on which they are placed ouglit to be of one 
piece; or, if joined, the under side of the joining 
should be lined with a thinner board fixed closely 
with wooden pins. The edges of this rounded 
standard should project four inches all round from 
the hive. Place it on three wooden pillars sixteen 
inches long, ten inches above the ground, but six 
inches of its length should be firmly thrust into 
the earth, in all its length to be sixteen inches. 
The pillar in front should be an inch shorter than 
the other two, and the three pillars should be with- 
in twelve or fourteen inches of the outer edge of 
the board, to exclude rats and mice. For the same 
reason no tall-growing plant, no wall, iior any 
means for ascent should be within three or four 
feet of the hive. In fine weather, the entrance to 
the hive must be four inches long, and an inch and 
a half in depth. 

In the beginning of the fine season, when the 
bees can get food, or have stores remaining, the 
bee-master has nothing to do but to keep the 
ground about the hives clear from weeds, and from 
whatever might enable vermin to climb there. 
Yet as a thriving stock inclines very soon to swarm, 
the hives must be frequently looked after, from 
eight in the morning till five in the afternoon. 
The symptoms are generally thus: The little city 
seems crowded with inhabitants. — They are con- 
tinually in motion during the day; and after work- 
ing-time, they make loud noises. The drones may 
be seen flying a'uout in the heat of the day, and the 
working bees go with a reeling motion and busy 
hum. When the bees come regularly out of the 
hives, let no noise, no interruption incommode 
them: but if they fly long, as if they were unset- 
tled, some tinkling noise or the loud report of a 
f;un, will make the fugitives repair to the nearest 
lodgings. If there is an empty hive with combs 
and some honey in it, they will readily go there. 
If a new hive is used, remember to smooth it well 
■within, and singe off" loose straws. Perpendicu- 
lar sticks should never hi employed. Pour cross 
sticks at equal distances will support the combs. 
Old hives do very well for late swarms that are 
not to be preserved tlirough the winter; but box 
hives are best for them, as the bees work fastest 
there. They are not, however, fit for being kept 
through the cold seasons. 

It is to be observed that great haste in forcing a 
swarm into the hive may disperse them. Give 
them time to settle undisturbed, though keep a 
steady eye on their motions: but whenever they 
gatlier into a cluster, lose no time in placing the 
hive over them. If the swarm rest on any thing 
that can be brought to the ground, spread a clean 
linen cloth: lay two sticks on it, two feet asunder; 
lay the body, on which the swarm have fixed, gent- 
ly on the sticks; covering it with the hive by a 
motion the least perceptible; and taking care that 
the edges of the hive rest upon the sticks. Cover 
hive and all with a cloth; for the sun might allure 
the bees to rise again. When they have gone into 
the hive, cover it with its own board, and carrj'' it 
cautiously to its station. Bees are apt to leave 
their hive even after they begin to ■w^ork, so they 
must be watched till evening, and throughout the 
ensuing day. Whenever they are sure to remain, 
fix the hive to its board with a little lime round 
the edges; and crown it with green sods to keep 
out too great heat or rain. 

If a hive divides into two swarms, it is a sign 
that each swarm has a queen. Put each into old 
hives or boxes; but they must be kept separate. 
If a cluster of bees about the size of a small plum 
are seen together, the queen will generally be found 



there. Separate them, and with a drinking glass 
turned down, you may seize the queen. Put her, 
a.id a score or two of her subjects into a box full 
of holes, large enough to admit air, and yet not to 
■allow the bees to escape. Feed her with honey 
combs, and keep her in reserve in case of the 
death of a queen in one of the hives. When a 
hive ceases to work, it is a sure sign the queen is 
no more. Then the bee-master may wait an ho\U' 
and not see a loaded bee enter the habitation. But 
if the spare queen be taken late in the evening, 
wetting her wings to prevent her escape, and in- 
troduce her to the desponding society, they will 
receive her gladly, and begin to work. 

If a hive fights among themselves, be assured 
there are two queens: and they will destroy eacb 
other, if one is not taken away to keep. 

When bees are to swarm a second, or mor*) 
times, they do not come out in clusters: but they 
make a sound called bellings, which may behearu, 
ceasing for a little, and renewed again and again 
If there are different tones, it is certain there an 
several young queens in the hive. It is only bj 
putting the ear close to it, that the sound can hi 
heard distinctly. 

To keep large hives for -winter. 

They must not be more than three years old 
and well stocked with bees. A hive for preserving 
should weigh from thirty to forty pounds. Place 
them in October where they are lo remain, observ- 
ing the usual precautions against vermin, or winds; 
and giving them if possible a distance of six or 
eight yards asunder, that they may not rob each 
other. Set the hive after sun-set. Plaster the 
edge firmly round with plaster lime, all except 
the entrance. Fit a piece of hard wood to the 
aperture; cut two lioles a quarter of an inch square, 
and fix the board as a door with plaster lime. 
Cover the hive with drawn straw tied together at 
the top; and fix it with straw ropes around. Cut 
the straw a quarter of an inch below the board, 
for a few lengths may conduct vermin into the tor- 
pid community. Once in four or five weeks raise 
the hive from the board after sun-set. Scrape the 
board clean, and brush away dead bees. Observe 
when turning them up if they move their wings; 
if not, bring them into a warmer situation, free from 
noise, and the light excluded. Keep them there 
till the extreme rigour of the season is past, and 
then return them to their old situation after sun- 
set. 

Sunshine in snow is destructive to bees if they 
get out. Put a platting of twigs across the hoks 
to give air, and yet confine the inmates. Never 
confine them more than eight or ten days, and ex- 
cept in snow in the sunshine, their own sagacity 
will direct when it is safe to go out. It is abso- 
lutely necessary for their health, to have leave for 
going in and out in tolerably mild weather. 
To manage bee-hives of Mv J'horley's construction. 

The bottom part is an octangular bee box, made 
of deal boards, about an inch in thickness, the 
cover of which is extern:dly 17 inches in diameter, 
but internally only 15 inches, and its height 10. 
In the middle of the cover of this octangular box 
is a hole, which may be opened or shut at pleasure 
by means of a slider. In one of the pannels is a 
pane of glass, covered with a wooden door. I'he 
entrance at th3 bottom of the kox is about three 
and a half inches broad, and half an inch high. 
Two slips of deal, about half an inch square cross 
each other in the centre of the box, and are fasten- 
ed lo the pannel by means of small screws: to 
these slips the bees fasten their combs. In this 
octangular box, the bees are hived, after swarming 
in the usual manner, and then suffered to continue 
till they have built their combs, and filled theio 



SfiP 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



with honey; which may he known by opening the 
door, and viewing their works through the glass 
pane, or by the weight of the hive. When ti..e 
bee-master finds his laborious insects have filled 
their habitation, he is to place a common bee-hive 
of straw, made either flat on the top, or in the 
common form, on the octarjgular box, and drawing 
out the slider, a communication will be opened 
between the box and the straw hive; in consequence 
of which the bees will fill this hive %lso with the 
product of their labours. 

"When the straw-hive is well filled, the slider 
may be pushed in, and the hive taken away, and 
another placed in its room, with the slider drawn 
out. This new hive will also be filled in the same 
manner. 

Mr Thorley assured the Society of Arts, that 
he had taken three successive hives, filled with 
honey and wax, from a single hive during the same 
summer-; and that the food still remaining in the 
octangular box, was sufficient for the support of 
the bees during the winter. He says, that if this 
method was pursued in every part of the kingdom, 
instead of the cruel method of destroying these 
useful insects, he is persuaded, from long experi- 
ence, that wax would be collected in such plenty, 
that candles made with it might be sold as cheap 
!»s those of tallow are sold at present. 

Mr Thorley has also added another part to his 
bee-hive, consistk.ig of a glass reservoir, 18 inches 
high, 8 inches in diameter at the bottom, and in 
the greatest part 13; this receiver has a hole at the 
top, about one inch in diameter, tfirough which a 
square piece of deal is extended nearly to the bot- 
tom of the vessel, having two cross bars, to which 
the bees fasten their combs. Into the other end 
of this square piece is screwed a piece of brass, 
which serves as a handle to the receiver or glass 
hive. When the bees have filled their straw liive, 
which must have a hole in the centre, covered with 
a piece of tin, Mr Thorley places the glass re- 
ceiver upon the top of the straw hive, and draws 
out the piece of tin. The bees, now finding their 
h'.bitation enlarged, pursue their labours with such 
alacrity, chat they fill their glass hive likewise with 
their stores, the whole progress of their works. 
It will, however, be necessary to cover the glass 
with an empty hive of straw, or at least with a 
cloth, lest too much light prevent their working. 
In this way Mr Thorley, in a good season, has had 
a glass hive filled in thirty days, containing 38 
pounds of fine honey. When the glass is com- 
pletely filled, slide a tin plate between the hive or 
box, so as to cover the passage, and in half an hour 
the glass may be taken away with safety. The 
few be^s that remain will readily go to their com- 
panions. 

Mr Thorley has added a glass window to his 
straw hives, in order to observe the progress of the 
bees; and this contrivance is useful, especially if 
one hive is to be removed whilst the season con- 
tinues favourable for their collecting of honey; for, 
when the combs are filled with honey, the cells are 
sealed up, and the bees forsake them, and reside 
mostly in the hives in which their works are chiefly 
earned on. Observing also, that the bees were 
apt to extend their combs through the passafo of 
communication into the upper hive, which render- 
ed it necessary to divide the comb, when the up- 
per hive was taken away, he puts in the passage a 
wire screen for netting-, the meshes of which are 
large enough for a loadeii bee to pass easily through 
(hem; and thus he prevents the junction of the 



combs from one box to the other, and consequently 
obviates the necessity of cutting them, and of 
spilling some honey, which running down among 
a crowd of bees, incommoded them much. 
To manage bees on Mr CobbeU's plan. 

The best hives are those made of clean, cnblight- 
ed rye-straw. A swarm shoidd always be put into 
a new hive, and the sticks should be new that are 
put into the hive for the bees to work on; for, if 
the hive be old,, it is not so wholesome; and a thou- 
sand to one but it „«ontains the embryos of moths 
and other insects injurious to bees. Over the hive 
itself there should be a cap of thatch, made also 
of clean rye-straw ; and it should not only be new 
when first put on the hive, but a new one should be 
made to supply the place of the former one every 
three or four months; for, when the straw begins 
to get rotten, as it soon does, insects breed in it, 
its smell is bad, and its effect on the bees is dan- 
gerous. 

The hives should be placed on a bench, the legs 
of which mice an.l rats cannot creep up. Tin 
round the legs is best. But even this will not keep 
down ants, which are mortal enemies of bees. To 
keep tliem away, if they infest the hive, take a 
green stick and twist it round in the shape of a 
nng, to lay on the ground, round the leg of the 
bench, and at a few inches from it; and cover this 
stick with tar. This will keep away the ants. 

Besides the hive and its cap, there should be a 
sort of shed, with top, back, and ends, to give ad- 
ditional protection in winter; though, in summer, 
hives may be kept too hot, and, in that case, the 
bees become sickly, and the produce light. Tha 
situation of the hive is to face the south-east; or, 
at any rate, to be sheltered from the north and the 
west. From the north always, and from the west 
in winter. If it be a very dry season in summer, 
it contributes greatly to the success of the bees, to 
place clear water near their home, in a thing that 
they can conveniently drink out of; for, if they 
have to go a great way for drink, they have not 
much time for work. 

It is supposed, that bees live only a year; at any 
rate, it is best never to keep the same stall, or 
family, over two years, except it be wanted to in- 
crease the number of hives. The swarm of this 
summer should be always taken in the autumn of 
the next year. It is whimsical to save the bees 
when the honey is taken. They must be fed; 
and, if saved, they will die of old age before the 
next fall; and though young ones will supply the 
place of the dead, this is nothing like a good 
swarm put up during the summer. 

A good stall of bees, that is to say, the produce 
of one, is always worth about two bushels of good 
wheat. The cost is nothing to the labourer. He 
must tje a stupid countryman indeejd, who cannot 
make a bee-hive; and a lazy one indeed, if he will 
not if he can. In short, there is nothing but care 
demanded; and there are very few situations in 
the country, especially in the south of England, 
where a labouring man may not have half a dozen 
stalls of bees to take every year. The main things 
t are to keep away insects, mice, and birds, and es- 
! pecially a little bird called the bee-bird; and to 
keep all clean and fresh as to tlie hives and cover- 
ings. Never put a swarm into an old hive. If 
wasps, or hornets, annoy you, watch them home 
in the day time; and, in the night, kill them by 
fire, or by boiling water. Fowls should not go 
where bees are, for they eat them. 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



369 



POTTERY. 



To manufacture English stone -ware. 

Tobacco-pipe clay from Dorsetshire, is beaten 
much in water; by this process, the finer parts of 
the clay remain suspended in the water, while the 
coarser sand and other impurities fall to the bot- 
tom. The thick liquid, consisting of water and 
the finer parts of the clay, is further purified by 
passing it through hair and lawn sieves of different 
degrees of fineness. After this, the liquor is mix- 
ed (in various proportions for various ware) with 
another liquor of the same density, and consisting 
of flints calcined, ground, and suspended in water. 
The mixture is then dried in a kiln; and being af- 
terwards beaten to a proper temper, it becomes fit 
for being formed at the wheel into dishes, plates, 
bowls, &c. When this ware is to be put into the 
furnace to be baked, the several pieces of it are 
placed in the cases made of clay, called seggars, 
which are piled one upon another, in the dome of 
the furnace: "» fire is then lighted; when the ware 
is brought to a proper temper, which happens 
in about 48 hours, it is glazed by common salt. 
The salt is thrown into the furnace, through 
holes in the upper part of it, by the heat of which 
it is instant'.y converted into a thick vapour; which, 
circulating through the furnace, enters the seggar 
through holes made in its side (the top being co- 
vered to prevent the salt from falling on the ware), 
and attaching itself to the surface of the ware, it 
forms that vitreous coat upon the surface, which is 
called its glaze. 

To make yelloto or queen's -ware. 

This is made of the same materials as tiie flint 
ware; but the proportion in which the materials 
are mixed is not the same, nor is the ware glazed 
in the same way. The flint ware is generally made 
of 4 measures of liquid flint, and 18 of liquid clay; 
the yellow ware has a greater proportion of clay in 
it; in some manufactories they mix 20, and in 
others 24 measures of clay with 4 of flint. The 
proportion for both sorts of ware depends very 
much upon the nature of the clay, which is very 
vari"\ble even in the same pit. Hence a previous 
trial must be made of the quality of the clay, by 
burning a kiln of the ware. If there be too much 
flint mixed with the clay, the ware, when exposed 
to tlie air after burning, is apt to crack; and if there 
be too little, the ware will not receive the proper 
glaze from the circulation of the salt vapour. 
To manufacture English porcelain. 

The iron-stone, which contains a portion of argil 
and silex, is first roasted in a common biscuit kiln, 
to facilitate its trituration, and to expel sulphur and 
other volatile ingredients which it may contain. 
A large earthen crucible is constructed after the 
exact model of an iron forge, a part of the bottom 
of which is filled with charcoal or cokes : these, 
having been previously strewed with ore, and about 
one-third part of lime, are raised to an intense heat 
by a strong blast of air, introduced under the cokes 
at the bottom. By this heat the ore is fused, and 
the fluid iron drops through the fuel to the bottom: 
then follows the scoria, which floats upon the top 
of the fluid iron. This latter scoria, or, as the 
workmen call it, ^lag, is the material used in the 
manufacture of the china, and is much impregnat- 
ed with iron, and of a compact and dense struc- 
ture. Tfie slag is next let off^, by a hole through 
the forge, into a clean earthen vessel, where it 
2W 



cools. This last vessel is then broken, in order to 
detach the slag from it, with hammers. The sco- 
ria is next pounded into small pieces and ground in 
water, to the consistence of a fine paste, at the 
flint mills of the country. This paste is then eva- 
porated to dryness, on a slip kiln, well known 
amongst potters. Thus evaporated to dryness, it 
is used with the other ingredients in the following 
proportions, viz. 

Prepared iron stone, 3 cwt. — ground flint, 4 cwt. 
— ground Cornwall stone, 4 cwt. — Cornwall clay, 
4 cwt. — blue oxide of cobalt, ?. pound. 

These having been mixed together with water 
by the slip-maker, are again evaporated en the 
slip kiln to the proper consistency for use. The 
clay, thus prepared, is of course used in the usual 
manner in the fabrication of the several kinds of 
vessels. 

Black glazing. 
Take 8 parts of red lead, 3 parts of iron filings, 
3 parts of calcined copper, and 2 parts of zaffre. 
This, when fused, will produce a brown black; 
but if wanted a truer black colour, the proportion 
of zaffre must be increased. 

To make porcelain or china. 
Porcelain, or china, is a semi-vitrified earthen 
ware, of an intermediate nature between commoi' 
ware and glass. Chinese porcelain is composed 
of two ingredients, one of which is a hard stone, 
called petunse, which is carefully ground to a very 
fine powder; and the other, called kaolin, is a 
white earthy substance, which is intimately mixed 
with the ground stone. The former is of the sili- 
ceous, and the latter of the aluminous genus. 

Several compositions of mingled earth maj /-ield 
a true porcelain, by being burnt; and the porce- 
lains of various countries differ in their mixtures. 
But the principal basis of any true porcelain is 
that kind of clay which becomes white by baking, 
and which, either by intermingled heterogeneous 
earth, or by particular additions, undergoes in the 
fire an incipient vitrification, in which the. true na- 
ture of porcelain consists. Feldspar and gypsum, 
if added, may give that property to infusible clay 
When porcelain is to be made, the clay is pro- 
perly selected, carefully washed from impurities, 
and again dried. It is then finely sifted, and most 
accurately mingled with quartz, ground very fine; 
to which, then, is added some burnt and finely pul- 
verized gypsum. This mass is worked with wa- 
ter to a paste, and duly kneaded; it is usually suf- 
fered to lie in this state for years. The vessels and 
other goods formed of this mass are first mode- 
rately burnt in earthen pots, to receive a certain 
degree of compactness, and to be ready for glaz- 
ing. The glazing consists of an easily melted 
mixture of some species of earths, as the petro- 
silex or chert, fragments of porcelain and gypsum, 
which, when fused together, produce a crystalline, 
or vitreous mass, which, after cooling, is very fine- 
ly ground, and suspended in a sufficient quantity of 
water. Into this fluid the rough ware is dipped, 
by which the glazing matter is deposited uniform- 
ly on every part of its surface. After drying, 
each article is thoroughly baked or burned in the 
violent heat of the porcelain furnace. It is usual 
to decorate porcelain by paintings, for which pur- 
pose enamels or pastes, coloured by metallic ox- 
ides, are used, so easy of fusion as to run in a heat 



370 



UNIVERSAL Rt<CEIPT BOOK. 



less intense than that in which the glazing of the 
■ware melts. 

To make delft-ware. 
This is a kind of pottery made of sand and clay, 
and but slightly baked, so that it resists sudden 
applications of heat. Articles made of this are 
glazed with an enamel, composed of common salt, 
sand ground fine, oxide of lead, and oxide of tin. 
The use of the latter is to give opacity to the glaze. 
To make cfana -ware. 
The composition of the eastern or proper china- 
ware, according to accounts that have great marks 
of authenticity, is from two earths; one of which 
is, as was before mentioned, vitrescent, and is 
called pelunse: the other a refractoiy, or a pyrous 
earth, and called kaolin. 

The preparation of the petunse, or alummous 
;arth, is by pounding the stone till it is reduced to 
a very fine powder, and then washing it over to 
bring it to the most .rapalpable state, which is thus 
performed: After the stone is rendered as fine as it 
can be by pounding or griiiding, the powder must 
be put into a large tub full of water, and, being 
stirred about, the upper part of the water must be 
laded out into another tub, by which means the 
finest particles of the powder will be carried into 
it. The water in the second tub must be then suf- 
fered to stand at rest till the powder be subsided, 
and as much as can be laded off clear must be put 
back into the first tub, and there being again stir- 
red about, and loaded with a fresh quantity of the 
most subtle part of the powder, must be laded 
again into the second tub as before, and ihis must 
be repeated till none be left in the first tub but tlie 
. grosser part of the stone; which, not l)eing of a 
due fineness, must be again pounded, and treated 
as at first. The fine powder obtained in the se- 
cond tub, must be then freed from the water, by 
. lading off the clear part, and suffering what re- 
mains to exhale, till the matter become of the con- 
sistence of soft clay, when it will be fit to be com- 
mixed with the kaolin for use. 

The kaolin, or mica, is prepared in the same 
manner by washirr over, but some specimens are 
so fine, that there is no occasion for this or any 
other purification. 

From these two mixed together, the clay or paste 
IS formed; but it is said, that the proportion of the 
respective quantities is made to vary according to 
the intended goodness of the ware, the best being 
made from equal quantities, and the worst from 
two of the kaolin to one of the petunse. 

To make Saxon or Dresden cfdna. 
Thf Saxon composition, of which the china- 
ware is formed, is greatK similar to that of the 
eastern. In the place of the petunse, a stone is 
used, which is improperly called in the German 
language, bleyspatt, or spar of lead. It is a stone 
of a very contrary nature, as spars are calcareous, 
and will, on calcining, become lime ; on the other 
hand, this stone is of a vitreous nature, though it 
is said no fire will fuse it without some mixture. 
This spar is of a very hard texture, and of a light 
flesh colour, or pale whitish red. It is prepared 
by pounding and washing over, which may be done 
as above-directed, and it is then ready for com- 
pounding with the mica. The mica is employed 
III the Saxon composition for the other ingredients: 
and is likewise prepared by grinding and washing 
over, when it is not in a perfect and pure state; but 
when it is entirely clean, it maybe tempered with 
the texture, thoroughly broken, and it will be of 
the consistence of soft clay. 

The two kinds of earth being prepared in the 
state of a soft paste, they 9i-e to be incorporated 
and blenued into one masj. which is done by rol- 
.ingand stirring them wea after they are in the 



same vessel, and then kneading them with the feet 
til! they are thoroughly united. When the com- 
pound mass is formed, it is made into cakes, or 
square pieces, and put by layers into cases of wood 
or stone, which must be placed in a moist situa- 
tion, and left for two or three months; during 
which time a kind of putrid ferment enters into 
the mixture, by which the parts of the different 
matter combine and form a substance with new 
qualities, unknown while separate. ^^ This change 
shows itself upon the whole mass by a fetid 
smell, and a greenish or bluish colour, and a te- 
nacity like that of clay, or the argillaceous 
moistened earths. If the time of keeping the 
paste in this condition be prolonged to a year 
or inore, it will further improve its qualities, 
but great care must be taken to prevent its 
becoming dry; to prevent which, there may 
be occasion to water it. When, however, the 
described qualities are found in the matter, it is fit 
for use, and vessels, &c. may be wrought of it 
without any other preparation, the case below ex- 
cepted. 

Composition of English china. 
The following composition will produce wares, 
which will possess the properties of the true china, 
if judiciously managed. 

Mix the best white sand, or calcined flints, fine- 
ly powdered, twenty pounds, of very white pearl 
ashes five pounds, of perfect white calcined bones 
two pounds. Temper the whole with the gums 
arable or Senegal, dissolved in water. 

This requires a considerable force and continu- 
ance of heat to bring it to perfection, but it will bt 
very white and good when it is properly treated. 
Where mica can be obtained, it is preferable to 
calcined bones, and as it will form a kind of paste 
for working, a weaker gum-water will answer the 
purpose. 

To bake china -ware. 
The furnace for this purpose may be construct- 
ed in the same manneras the potter's kilns usually 
are; and Windsor bricks, with mortar of Windsor 
loam, or Stourbridge clay, should be emplo3'ed in 
its fabrication. Where they are not to be procured, 
use bricks and clay nearest in their qualities of re- 
sistance. The size of the furnace shoiild be ac- 
cording to the quantity of ware required to be 
baked; but it must not be too small, lest the body 
of fire may not be sufficient to produce the requi« 
site heat. 

The caffettes, or coffins, to contain the pieces 
when placed in the furnace, are the most material 
utensils. They should be of Stourbridge, or other 
good potter's clay, with a third of sand, and are 
generally made of a round form, with a flat bottom, 
the rim forming the sides, being adapted to the 
height of the pieces to be mclosed. 

The furnace and caffettes being prepared; the 
ware to be baked must be sorted in the caffettes 
in the most advantageous manne** as to room, and 
as many caffettes must be set upon them as the fur- 
nace will conveniently contain, leaving space for 
the free passage of the fire betwixt the piles: take 
care to cover over the uppermost caffettes in each 
pile, then close the mouth of the furnace, and i-aise 
the fire so as to heat the caffettes red hot in every 
part, atid keep them red hot for twelve or fourteen 
hours. It is then to be extinguished, and the fur- 
nace left to cool gradually; and when little or no 
heat remains, the mouth may be opened, and the 
pieces taken out of the caffettes; when the}' will be 
in a condition to receive the glazing, or to be 
painted with such colours as are used under the 
glaze. 

To make tobacco pipes. 
These require a very fine, tenacious, and refrac 



r OTTERY. 



371 



V 'J clay, which is either nuliirar.'y of a perfectly 
» *ile colour, or, if it have somewhat of a gray 
•»«t, will necessarily burn white. A clay of this 
kind must contain no calcareous or ferruginous 
earth, and must also be carefully deprived of any 
sand it may contain by washing. It ought to pos- 
sess, besides, the property of shrinking but little 
in the fire. If it sliould not prove sufficiently duc- 
tile, it may be meliorated by the admixture of ano- 
ther sort. Last of all, it is beaten, kneaded, ground, 
washed, and sifted, till it acquires the requisite de- 
gree of fineness and ductility. When, after this 
preparation, the clay has obtamed a due degree of 
ductility, it is rolled out in small portions to the 
usual length of a pipe, perforated with the wire, 
and put, together with the wire, into a brass mould, 
rubbed over with oil, to give it its external form; 
after which it is fixed into a vice, and the hollow 
part of the head formed with a stopper. The pipes, 
thus brought into form, are cleared of the redun- 
dant clay that adheres to the seams, a rim or bor- 
der is made round the head, they are then marked 
with an iron stamp upon the heel, and the surfaces 
smoothed and polished. When they are well 
dried, they are put into boxes, and baked in a fur- 
nace. 

To make crucibles. 
Mr Charles Cameron, Glasgow, has published a 
description of a new method of forming crucibles. 
The Dutch have long enjoyed an almost exclusive 
monopoly in the manufacture of the small melting- 
pot, or clay crucible, used by the jeweller and sil- 
versmith. I established a small manufactory of 
them, as follows: for each of the difierent sizes of 
the crucibles, 1 formed ten or twelve dozen of 
moulds of stucco, burnt and powdered in the usual 
manner. For the first mould of each size, I form- 
ed a piece of soft pipe clay into the shape of the 
intended crucible, and laid it with its mouth down- 
wards on a flat surface, and enclosed it with a cy- 
linder of white iron, distant about half an inch 
from the angular points of the crucible, and about 
an inch and a half higher than its bottom: then 
mixing the stucco with water, poured it into the 
cylinder. When the stucco was sufficiently set, I 
removed the white-iron, picked out the clay, and 
dried the mould. 1 then squeezed soft clay into 
the mould, which, on standing a few minutes, easily 
came out again. It was inclosed in the cylinder, 
and stucco poured round it, which formed a second 
mould, continuing to do so until I had procured 
the number wanted. They were then all put into 
a stove, and completely dried ready for use. In 
the preparation of the fire-clay for the crucibles, I 
followed precisely the same process used at the 
potteries, by mixing it with a very large quantity 
of water, and putting the whole through a No. 9 
silk scarce. On allowing the whole to stand a few 
hours, the clay subsided, and, in pouring off the 
clear water, I procured the clay or slip of the con- 
sistence of thick cream. On weighing a gallon of 
It, I found the proportion of clay it contained, and 
added sand to the whole in the proportion of seven 
of sand to seventeen of clay; I then stirred and 
mixed the whole completely, when it was ready 
for use. I next took my moulds, previously dried, 
^nd arranged them in parallel rows on a table, and 
successively filled them with the prepared slip. By 
■'he time I had filled four or five dozen, I returned 
'o the one first filled, and began alternately to pour 
ihe sl'p out of them, leaving a small quantity un- 
joui-ed out, which subsided, and gave the requisite 
liickness to the bottom. In each of the moulds so 
Ailed, a crucible is completely formed by the ab- 
straction of the water of the slip, in contact with, 
and adjoining to, the porous substance of the stucco 
mould. The crucible will be either thicker or 



thinner in proportion to the time the slip has re- 
mained in it. Five or six dozen will not require 
more than fifteen minutes in being formed. The 
moulds with their contents are then removed to a 
store, placed on their side, and built one above the 
other. In a short time, from the contraction of 
the clay, the crucibles easily part from the moulds, 
and are removed by introducing the finger into 
them. The moulds are allowed to remain in their 
situation until the water they had absorbed is com- 
pletely evaporated, when they are again ready for 
re-filling, and will last for years. The crucibles 
remain in the stove until dry, after which they are 
burned in a kiln in the usual manner. 
To make -white glaze. 

Take 26 parts of glass, 7 do. litharge, 3 do. ni- 
tre, 1^ do. arsenic, | do. blue calx; — either fritted 
in a glass oven or not. 

To make glaze. 

Take 93 parts of lead, 45 do. stone, 25 do. flint, 
and 9 do. frit. 

To make china glaze for printing bltie fnt. 

Take 10 parts of glass, 2 do. lead, and 3 or 3^ 
do. blue calx, as required. 

To make -white frit. 

Take 16 parts of glass, 5 do. lead, 1 do. arsenic, 
2J do. nitre. 

Take 11 parts of white frit to the whole of blue 

frit, and grind them together. Then take of the 

mica frit, 8 parts of the above, 5 do. flint, 13 do. 

Cornish stone, 23 do. lead, and 6 oz. common salt 

To make cream coloured glaze. 

Take 60 parts of Cornish stone, 20 do. flint, and 
120 do. white lead. Stained with 1 oz. of smalts, 
as above. 

To form a yellow glaze.' 

Take 2 parts of litharge, 2 do. tin-ash, and i v?o . 
antimony. 

To prepare white g.^isc. 

Take 15 parts of Cornish stone, iOdo. fiir.t giaas, 
5 do. anica flint, 5 do. nitre, 5 do. b vraXj i do. com- 
mon salt, and 1 do. sal soda; frittet ir, a glass oven. 
Then add 2 parts frit, as above, to I <*(>. white lead. 
Send to mill to grind veiy fine, and str\n with 7 oz, 
of blue calx. 

To make a mixture for glaze. 

Take 20 lbs. of white frit, 10 do. flint, 26 do. 
stone, 50 do. lead, and 4 oz. of blue. 

To make a mixture of glaze for printing blue. 

Take 6 parts of white frit, 5 do. flint, 13 do. 
stone, 25 do. lead, and 55 do. glass. 

To make a shirdng black glaze. 

Take 100 parts of lead, 18 do. flint, and 40 do 
manganese. 

To make a purple under glaze. 

Take \ oz. of fluxed blue, I oz. manganese, 1 oz. 
red lead, and 1 oz. flint. 

To prepare an orange sponge dip. 

Take 1 quart of yellow slip, to 1 oz. zaffre. 
To prepare a brown under glaze. 

Take 8oz. of glass antimony, 16 oz. litharge, 3 
oz. manganese, and 4 drs. blue calx. 
To prepare a china glaze. 

Take 42 parts of flint glass, 3 oz. blue calx. 
Stain. 16 oz. flint glass, 1 do. red lead, 1 arsenic 
and 1 nitre. — White enamel. Run down in glas 
oven; then send with the above stain to the mill 
8 parts of white enamel, dry it and it will be fi\ 
for use. 8 parts of the above mixture (stain and 
white enamel), 6 do. dry flint, 14 do. Cornish stone 
24 do. white stone, which, when sifted, is fit foi 
use. 

To prepare a china glaze for flotts. 

Take 27 parts of flint, 15 do. nitre, 4§ do. lime, 
3^ do. stain. This run dot.'n in a glass oven, and, 
when sent to the mill, add 75 parts of glass, 15 do 
lead, 10 do. white enamel; add 2 pailsful of lime. 



372 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



and, when it comes from the mill, add 135 parts 
of lead. Stain to the above, 10 parts of glass, and 
5 oz. of blue. 

To prepare -white enamel. 
Take 7 oz. of arsenic, 12 do. potash, 6 do. nitre, 
5 do. glass, 2 do. flint, and 3 do. white lead. 
To prepare china glaze. 
Take 56 parts of stone, 46 do. borax, 18 do. glass, 
15 do. flint, and 40 do. lead. 

To prepare green edge glaze. 
Take 20 parts of lead, 60 do. stune, 20 do. flint, 
and 10 do. ground glass. 

' To prepare materials for common -ware. 
Take 25 parts of flint, 60 do. store, 95 do. lead, 
and S do. frit. 

To prepare glaze for green edge. 
Take 175 parts of lead, 100 do. stone, and 35 do. 
flint. 

To prepare, fluxes for blue printing. 
Take 5 parts of blue calx, 5| do. coak stone, 1^ 
do. glass, and 1 do. flint. 

To prepare flux for black printing. 
Take 7^ parts of flint glass, 2^ do. red lead, and 
2 do. borax. 

To prepare red flux. 
Take 5 parts of lead, 1 oz. of borax, and 12 do. 
of glass. 

To prepare black for printing. 
Take 1 part of calcined copper, 1^ do. red flux. 
Passed through the enamel kiln, 1| of calx, sent 
to the mill for grinding. 

To prepare copper black. 
Take 1 lb. of calcined copper, pound fine, and 
put into the ,enarael kiVi, and it will come out 
black. Then 1^ oz. of red flux, put through the 
enamel kiln, second time; then 1 of the above, and 
1^ of flux, ground fine for use. 

To prepare red for printing. 
. Take green copperas calcined to a fine powder, 
wash it well 10 rr 12 days, and dry it; 1 of the 
above to 6 of red flux. 

To prepare umber black. 
Take 5 oz. of umber, 2 do. borax, 1 do. blue 
calx. One of the above to 2 flux, as under; 7^ 
flint glass, 2^ red lead, and 2 borax. 
To prepare black. 
Take 3 oz. of calcined umber, 1 do. borax: run 
down together. This will fine with gold. 
To prepare oil for black printing. 
Take half a pint of linseed oil, boiled well until 
of a proper consistence, ti which add a small quan- 
tity of Barbadoes tar, prepared the same way. 
Another, 
Take 1 quart of linseed-oil, 4 oz. flowers of sul- 
phur, 4oz. balsam of sulphur, 8 oz. black rosin. 
To form a cream colour body. 
Take 2cwt. blue clay, I do. black do. 3 qrs. flint, 
and I qr. Cornish stone. 

To form another common body. 
Take S cwt. black clay, 2 do. brown do. 2 do, 
blue do. 1 do. flint, 40 lbs. Cornish stone. 
To form a blue printing body. 
Take 2 parts black clay, 2 brown do. 4 blue do. 
2 china do. 2 flint, and ^ Cornish stone. 
Another, 
Take 20 cwt. blue clay, 5 do. black do. 2§ do. 
brown do. 2 do. china do. 2 do. flint, and ^ do. Cor- 
nish stone. 

To make a chalk body. 
Take 3| parts Moor clay, 3 do. raw pulverized 
flint, 2 do. blue ball clay, 4 drs. smalt. — fbit. — 
Flint 2 part., bone 3J, lime \, and potash \. 
Another. 
Take 2 parts blue clay, 2 do. china do. 3 do. 
flint, and l-8th Cornis.i stone. — Fbit. — 10 parts 
i;lass, 15 do. stone, 5 do. flint, 3 do. borax. 



To form a cane body. 

Take 4 parts black marl, 2 do. CornUh stone, 
and 1 do. cream-coloured clay. 

To form a jasper body. 

Take 3 parts coke stone, 2 do. Cornish do. \\ 
do. blue clay, ^ d-o. flint, and 1 dr. blue calx. 
To form a drab body. 

Take 2 parts blue clay, 1 do. China do. 3 do. 
composition, ^ do. Bradwell wood clay. 
To form a pearl body. 

Take 6 parts Cornish stone, 2 do. Derbyshire 
clay, 1 do. flux. Fiux, 8 parts glass, 2§ do. red- 
lead. 

To form a atone body. 

Take 2 parts hlue clay, 2 do. china do. 4 do, 
composition. 

To form an Egyptian black body. 

Take blue clay, 30 parts, black marl, 5 do. cal- 
cined car, 25 do. manganese, 2 do. 
To form a china body. 

Take blue clay, 12 parts, china do. 6 do. bone, 
12 do. Cornisii stone, 12 do. flint, 6 do. flint glass 
2 do. 

Common glazing for earthen -ware. 

Take of white sand, 40 lbs. red lead, 20 lbs. 
pearl ashes, 20 lbs. common salt, 12 lbs. Powder 
thi» sand by grinding before it be mixed with the 
other ingredients, and then grind them together, 
after which, calcine them for some time with a 
moderate heat, which must be less than will make 
them melt and run to glass; and when the mix- 
ture is cold, grind it to- powder again, and, when 
wanted, temper it with water, and it will then be 
fit for use. 

The proportions of these ingredients may be 
varied occasionally, for, where tne glazing can be 
fluxed conveniently with a very strong fire, the 
quantity of sand may be increased to 60 or 70 lbs. 
which not only renders the glazing stronger, but 
makes a saving in the expense. The proportion 
of pearl-ashes may likewise be diminished, or ihey 
may be wholly omitted where the ware is designed 
for very coarse purposes, and not for domestic 
uses, where the lead is very improper, being ex- 
tremely apt to be corroded by acids, and to pro- 
duce a very unwholesome substance. On this ac- 
count, where good manufactories are established, 
the lead ought to be excluded from the composition 
of the glazings, and other fluxes used in its stead, 
as in the following: 

Transparent glazing for earthenvmre. 

Take of white sand, 40 lbs. of pearl-ashes, 21 lbs. 
and of common salt, 15 lbs. Calcine, and proceed 
as above. 

Where the expense is no object, this glazing may 
be improved by adding one or two pounds of bo- 
rax, and diminishing the pearl-ashes, in the pro- 
portion of six pounds for one pound of borax ad- 
ded, or ten pounds for two; in the latter case, two 
pounds of salt may be also kept out of the compo- 
sition. The reason for this chang-e is, that if the 
composition contain so large a proportion of salt, 
and the glazing be not fluxed for a long time after 
it is laid on the ware, it will be apt to be dissolved 
by boiling water, and peel off, if it be exposed to 
the action of it for any long time. 
Another, 

Take of sand, 40 lbs. of wood ashes, perfectly 
burnt, 50 lbs. of pearl-ashes, 10 lbs. of common 
salt, 12 lbs. 

This will make an admirable glazing, where the 
ashes are pure, and a strong fire can be given to 
flux it when laid on the ware. It will be perfectly 
free from the imperfection of the above, and will 
be very hard and glossy, and where the expense 
can be aflbrded, it may be made more yielding to 



POTTERY. 



873 



tne fire by the addition of borax, in which case no 
alteration need be made in the proportion of the 
other ingredients. 
Toprepare masticot ttsed as the qround of glazing: 

Take of clean sand, one hundred weight; of so- 
da, 44 lbs. and of pearl-ashes, 30 lbs. Calcine the 
mixture. 

This is the Dutch method, but the soda not be- 
ing employed in this country, those who would use 
masticot must increase the quantity of pearl-ashes 
in an equivalent proportion, and therefore 70 lbs. 
should be employed instead of the 30. 
Masticot for white glazing. 

Take of masticot, prepared as in the preceding, 
one hundred pounds, calx of tin, 80 lbs, and of 
common salt, 10 lbs. Calcine and powder this 
composition three several times. 

The calx of tin is prepared and sold under the 
name of putty. Its goodness consit.- .s in its white- 
ness and purity; the first of which is easily known 
by comparing it with a specimen of any that is 
known to be good. 

Another preparation. 

Take of mastic 10 lbs. red lead, 60 lbs. calcined 
tin or putty, 20 lbs. and of common salt, 10 lbs. 
Mix them, and calcine and powder the mixture 
several times. 

Another. 

Take 2 lbs. of lead, and somewhat more than 1 
lb. of tin. Calcine the two metals till reduced to 
a powder, by the means used by potters. Then 
take two parts of these ashes, one part of white 
sand, calcined flints, or broken white glass, and 
half a pint of common salt. Mix well together 
the several ingredients, and set the matter to bake 
in a proper furnace, and urge it at lengih to melt. 

The trouble of calcining the tin and lead may 
be saved here, as well as on the occasions above- 
mentioned, by procuring them already reduced to 
a proper state. 

Another. 

Take 1| lbs. of lead, and 1 lb. of tin. Reduce 
them to tiie state of a calx, and then take of the 
calcined matter, 8 parts, and of calcined flints and 
common salt, each 4 parts. Bring the mixture, 
by heat, to a state of fusion. 
Another. 

Take of lead, 3 parts, and of tin, 1 part. Cal- 
cine them, and then take of this matter, and of 
calcined flints, and common salt, each 3 parts. 
Fuse them as above. 

Another. 

Take of lead, 4 lbs. tin, 1 lb. Calcine them, 
and take of the matter, 8 parts, of calcined flints, 
7 parts, and of common salt, 4 parts. Fuse them 
as the others. 

White glazing for copper vessels. 

Take of lead, 4 lbs., of tin, 1 lb., of flints, 4 
lbs., of common salt, 1 lb., and of Venetian glass, 
1 lb. Melt the mixture, and it will be fit for use. 
Another. 

Take of lead, 4 lbs., and of tin, 1 lb. Calcine 
them, and take of the matter, 12 parts, of flints, 
t4 parts, and of common oult, 8 parts. Fuse them 
as the others. 

Veryfne white glazing. 

Take of lead, 2 parts, and of tin, 1 part. Cal- 
cine them, and take of the matter, one part, of 
flints and common salt, each one part. Fuse the 
mixture. 

Enamel for earthenware. 

Take of tin, any quantity, and enclose it in clay 
or loam, and put it in a crucible. Place the cru- 
cible in the fire, that the tin may calcine, and then 
break it. There will be a pound of calx very 
#hite, and when it is used to paint with, on a 



white ground, the colour will come fortn and be 
much whiter than that of the ground. 

Yellow glazing. 

Take of tin and antimony, each 2 lbs., of lead, 
3 lbs., or, according to some, equal quantities of 
all the three ingredients. Calcine the whole, and 
put them at last in fusion, that they mar be vitri- 
fied. This glazing will run very soon, and be of 
a fine yellow colour. 

The calcining the tin, lead, and antimony to- 
gether, as here directed, would be a very tedious 
operation. The calcined tin, and red lead, should 
therefore be used, and the antimony calcined alone. 
B'lt it is not to be understood that the antimony 
is to be calcined for this purpose to wh"'eness, or 
the state of a perfect calx, wliich is not easily prac- 
ticable without nitre, and, if effected, would ren- 
der the antimony incapable of producing any other 
colour than white. The operation must therefore 
be performed with a slow fire, by roasting, as it 
were, the antimony till it lose its metallic appear- 
ance, and become a greenish powder, as is prac 
tised in making the glass of antimony. 
Another, 

Take 5 parts of red lead, 2 parts of powdered 
bark, 1 part of sand, 1 part of any of the preceding 
white glazings, and 2 parts of antimony. This 
mixture must be calcined, and then fused, and :t 
will give a fine yellow glazing. 
Another. 

Take 7 parts of the mixture of the calxes of tin 
and lead, mentioned before in the recipe for pre- 
paring the masticot for a white glazing. Add 1 
part of antimony, and fuse them together. 
Another. 

Take 4 parts of white glass, 1 part of antimony, 
3 parts of red lead, and 1 part of iron scales. Fuse 
the mixture. 

Another. 

Take 16 parts of flints, 1 part of filings of iron, 
and 24 parts of litharge. P'use the mixture. 
Lemon-coloured glazing. 

Take of red lead, 3 \)arts, of powdered bricks, 
very red, 3 parts and a half, and of antimony, 1 
part. Calcine the mixture day and night for the 
space of 4 days, in the ash-hole of a glass house 
furnace. Urge it at last to fusion, and it will pro- 
duce a very fine lemon-coloured glazing. 

The success of this operation depends greatly on 
the,fineness of the colour of the bricks that are 
powdered. Those which are of a fine red, and 
very brittle, are the best; but such as are grey will 
not at all answer the end. The same attention 
should be paid to this matter, wherever bricks are 
used in these kinds of preparations. 
Light yellow glazing. 

Take of red-lead, 4 |)arts, of antimony, 3 parts, 
of the mixture of the cal...'s of lead and tin, be- 
fore-mentioned in the masticot for white glazing, 
8 parts, and of glass, 3 parts. 

When the red-lead and calx of tin are used, the 
proportion of the ingredients will be, of red-lead, 
10 parts, of antimony and glass, each 3 parts, and 
of calcined tin, 2 parts. 

Gold-coloured glazing. 

Take of red lead, 3 parts, of antimony, 2 parts, 
and of saffron of Mars, I part. Fuse the mixtuie, 
and, having powdered the mass, melt it again, and 
repeat this operation till the fourth tin^e, and a 
fine gold-coloured yellow will be produced. 

Any pre[iaralion of the calcined iron may be 
used in the place of the safiri^on of Mars, and the 
repeated fusions and levigsitions seem unnecessary. 
Another. 

Take of red lead and white flints, each 12 parts 
and of tilings of iron, 1 part. Fuse them twice. 

2 G 



>]4 



OMVERSAI. RECEIPT BOOK. 



This glazing will be transparent Care must 
therefore be taken what ground it be laid upon, or 
it will not answer the end of a yellow, but com- 
oine with that of the ground; and, indeed, the 
body of colour is too weak to produce any other 
than a faint yellowish cast even on a pure white 
ground. 

Green glazing' to be laid on a -white ground. 

Take of calcined copper, 1 part, and 2 parts of 
any of the preceding yellow glazings. Fuse them 
twice, but when the composition is used, it must 
not be laid on too thick, for that would render the 
colour too deep. . 

Fine green glazing. 

Take of the Bohemian granite, I part, of filings 
of copper, 1 part, of red lead, 1 part, and of Ve- 
netian glass, 1 part. Fuse the whole, and it will 
afford a very fine green. But the mixture may be 
used without'being previously melted. 
Fine blue glazing. 

Take of red lead, 1 lb. powdered flints, 2 lbs. 
common salt, 2 lbs. tartar, 1 lb. Calcine till it be 
almost white. White of Venetian glass, ^ lb. and 
zafFre, ^ lb. Fuse the whole mixture, and quencli 
the melted mass in water. Repeat the same ope- 
ration several times. The same proceeding must 
be adhered to in all the compositions where the 
lartar enters, othervi^ise they would be too? much 
charged with salt, and the colour would not prove 
fins. It is proper, moreover, to calcine the mix- 
ture gently, day and night, for 48 hours, in a glass- 
house furnace. 

Jlnother. 

Take 1 lb. of tartar, ^ of a lb. of red lead, ^ an 
oz. of zaffre, and ^ of a lb. of powdered flints. 
Fuse the whole, and proceed in the manner stated 
above. 

Violet-blue glazing. 

Take 12 parts of tartar and an equal quantity 
of flints and zafFre. Proceed as with the above. 
Another. 

Take 4 oz. of tartar, 2 oz. of red lead, 5 oz. of 
nowdered flints, and ^ a drachm of magnesia. 
Proceed as with the above. 

Fine red glazing. 

Take 3 lbs. of antimony, 3 lbs. of red lead, and 
1 lb. of rust of iron. Grind the whole as fine as 
possible, and then paint with it. 
Another. 

Take 2 lbs. of antimony, 3 lbs. of red lead, and 
1 lb. of calcined saftVon of Mars. Proceed as 
with the above. 

Another. 

Take pieces of while glass, and reduce them to 
an impalpable powder. Take afterwards, vitriol 
cakined to redness, or rather the caput mortuum 
which is left after the distillation of the oil of vi- 
triol. Edulcorate the: calcined vitriol, or caput 
mortuum, by washing with water to free it from 
the salts, and then mix as much of it as there may 
be occasion for with the powdered glass. By this 
means a very fine red will be obtained, that may 
be used for painting; after which the work must be 
burnt. 

To prepare varnish for pottery luare, free from 
lead. 

Melt and keep in fusion, for 15 minutes, a mix- 
ture of an oz. of fire-stone and pounded glass; 2 
drachm ~ of salt, half an oz. of pipe clay, and an 
oz. and a lialf of borax. Varnish the pots over 
with this matter, after they have been in the fire, 
and put them again in it tor about 18 hours. 
Varnish for earthenware. 

This varnisli is made of equal parts of wliite- 
glass and soda, finely pulverfzed, carefully sifted, 
and mixed. 



Chinese mode of glazing china. 

They take the finest pieces of the petunse and 
treat them as before mentioned, by pounding and 
washing over; but extract by repeated washings 
over the very finest part of the powder, which 
keeps so moist with the water, that the mixture 
forms a liquid mass, which they call the oil of 
petunse. With this oil they mix an equal weight 
of borax, they then slake a quantity of quick lime, 
and form layers of that and dried furze; which 
they set on fire. When they have raised a large 
heap, after the first one is burnt to ashes; they col- 
lect them and the lime, and form layers of them 
again, with a fresh quantity of the furze, which 
they burn as before, and they repeat this five or 
six times. They then put the ashes and lime into 
a vessel with water, adding some borax in the pro- 
portion of one pound to a hundred weight of the 
ashes; they ri'xt wash over the finer part of this 
mixture, and pour off at last all fluid from the 
dregs, which they keep together with the solid 
part, washed over. They mix this composition of 
lime, ashes, and salts, with the mixture above 
mentioned, of an equal quantity of the oil of pe- 
tunse and borax, and this compound forms the mat- 
ter for glazing tiie ware. 

Instead of the petunse, the spar of lead used in 
the Saxon manufacture may be employed for form- 
ing a similar glazing, by treating it in the same 
manner: and it is said, tliie glazing of the Dresden 
china is actually made in this way. 

English glazing for china. 

Take of the finest white sand, or calcined flints, 
20 pounds; of red lead, 18 pounds; of pearl-ash, 10 
pounds; and of common salt, decrepitated, 4 
pounds; levigate the sand or calcined flints and red 
lead well together; and afterwards mix them tho- 
roughly with the pearl-ash and common salt, fuse 
the compound in the manner directed for the 
treatment of glass, till it be perfectly vitrified. 
Then, separate the fragments of the pot carefully 
from it, and reduce it in a flat agate, or porphyry 
mortar, to an impalpable powder; finally temper it 
with water to the proper consistence for painting or 
glazing. 

Modification of the above. 

When this glazing is used for embossed, or other 
fine work, it should be mixed with a third of its 
weight of the spar of lead, or other vitrescent 
earth, in lieu of the petunse, in the composition of 
the ware paste. Take care that this earth is form- 
ed of the best pieces of spar, or other substance 
used: and that it is rendered to an extreme fine- 
ness, by washing over. The design of this addi- 
tion is to weaken the fluxing powder of the glaze; 
which, if used alone, would run the corners and 
edges of the smaller part, and impair the sharp- 
ness and spirit of the work. It is necessary to pur- 
sue the same method with pieces that are to be 
painted with more delicate designs; for the glaz- 
ing, melting otherwise again, in the burning in 
of the colours, would become too fluid, and 
spread them so as to take away the effect of the 
fine touches. 

To glaze without lead. 

M. Westrumb, a German chemist, in conse- 
quence of numerous experiments, has published 
the successful result of several compositions, in 
which not a particle of lead is employed, and 
which in his opinion will prove an useful glazing 
for ordinary vessels. First, 32 parts of sand; 11, 
15, or 20 paixs of purified potash; and from 3 to 5 
parts of borax. Second, 32 parts of glass (we sup- 
pose flint-glass), 16 parts of borax, and 3 parts ot 
pure potash. Third, 150 parts of crystallized 
Glauber's salt, with 8 parts of pulverized charcoal. 



POTTERY. 



375 



previously roasted, till it has acquired a grey co- 
lour; 16 parts of sand, and 8 parts of borax. 

Another method of glazing without lead has 
Deen invented by a potter at Leipzig; it consists of 
half a pound of saltpetre, half a pound of potash, 
and 1 pound of common salt. This composition is 
not ve.y expensive, and is said to produce an ena- 
mel not inferior to that prepared with lead. 
To apply on every kind of hardware, colours 
vr/vich produce herborisations. 
Herborisations can be of all colours; but the 
most agreeable is that called bistre, which is com- 
posed in the following manner: — 

A pounl of calcined manganese; 6 oz. of burnt 
iron straw, or a pound of iron ore; and 3 oz. of 
flint-powder. 

The jnanganese and straw or iron ore must be 
pounded separately in a mortar, after which the 
whole is calcined together in an earthen-pot. This 
mixture, thus prepared, is all pounded together, 
and then mixed in a small tub of water. 

The blue, green, and other colours must be 
composed of the divers substances known to pro- 
duce them, and mixed, calcined, and pounded in 
the same manner as for the bistres. 

To make the application of these various co- 
lours to the pieces, it is necessary, instead of di- 
luting them with water, as is practised for ordinary 
painting, to make use of any kind of mordant. 
The most advantageous, and which are employed 
with the greatest success, are urine, and the es- 
sence of tobacco. 

If the essence of tobacco is made use of, infuse 
2 oz. of good tobacco in leaves, during 12 hours, in 
a bottle of cold water, or very simply infuse the 2 
oz. of tobacco in a bottle of hot water. 

The pieces of clay, after taking a little consist- 
ency, are steeped in white or coloured worm-seed, 
unt.) the bath puts them in a state of moisture. 
To produce herborisations, it will be sufficient, 
M'hilst the worm-seed is still fresh, and at the mo- 
ment when the piece is taken down from the tub, 
to lay on slightly, and with a brush, one or several 
drops of other colours: each drop produces a tree 
more or less great, according as the workman has 
charged his brush with colours. 
To omametit all kinds of glass in imitation of en- 
graving, &c. 
The method heretofore known for engraving on 
glass, has been by means of a macliine with 
wheels, of different substances, which have been 
employed with sand, &c. to grind off some parts 
of the surface of the glass which is to be engraved 
on, and then by means of grinding and polishing 
different parts on the rough surface, the different 
figures are formed according to the designs given. 
By this invention, instead ot grinding or taking off 
any part of the surface of the glass, the patentee 
lays on an additional surface or coating of glass, 
prepared for the purpose, which, when subjected 
to a proper degree of heat, will incorporate with 
the glass to be operated upon, so as to produce an 
effect similar to that which has hitherto been ob- 
tained by means of grinding. When it is requir- 
ed to ornament glass, then, previously to the heat 
being applied, with an etching or engraving tool, 
such parts are to be taken out as will produce the 
required effect, and that in a much superior way 
to the effect produced by the usual mode of grind- 
ing, polishing, &c. The materials used are to be 
melted in a crucible, or other pot, and they are to 
be made up in tbe same manner as if used for the 
making of the best flint glass, broken glass, or, as 
it is usually denominate^., " cuHiti," being the 
principal ingredient in it. Several mixtures 
»re given, of which the first is, 160 parts of cid- 



litt, 10 of pearl-ashes, 40 of red lead, and fO of 
arrence. 

The second is, 120 parts of cullitt, 160 of red 
lead, 60 of sand, and 60 of borax. 

The third is, 70 parts of red lead, 22^ of sand, 
and 410 of calcined borax. . 

When these are subjected to such a heat as to be 
thereby completely fused, take equal parts of each 
mixture, and grind them to an impalpable powder, 
for the purpose of being mixed with a menstruum 
proper for coating the glass. 

The menstruum consists of one part of double 
refined loaf sugar, dissolved in two parts of pure 
water: to which is added, at the time of mixing the 
powder, about one-third part of common writing 
ink — the effect, we are told, produced by this ad- 
dition of oxide of manganese, used in a small 
quantity by the glass-makers, in making their best 
flint-glass, because without such an addition the 
specimens would be of a cloudy or milky appear- 
ance. A quantity of this menstruum is used suffi- 
cient to render the ground-mixture of a proper 
consistence for laying on with a thm smooth sur- 
face. When the coating or mixture is thus pre 
pared, the glass is to be coated by means of a ca- 
mel's hair brush, or squirrel's foot, bic. It is ther 
to be exposed to a heat sufficient to produce a semi- 
vitrification of the coaty surface, and to incorporate 
it with the substance or body of glass so coated. 
But the heat must not be curried higher than this, 
because, in that case, a complete vitrification 
would ensue, and the desired effect of having a 
surface in imitation of the rough surface produced 
by grinding, would not be obtained: the article 
must, under such circumstances, be re-coated, and 
submitted again to the fire. If, after the coating 
has been applied, any borders, cyphers, or other 
ornaments, are wanted to be executed thereon, 
then, previously to the heat being applied with an 
etching or engraving tool, such |)arts of the coated 
surface must be chased out, as will produce the de- 
sired effect, after which the requisite degree of 
heat is to be applied. 

This invention is not only applicable to all 
kinds of useful and ornamental articles of glass- 
ware, on which the common methods of engraving 
have been practised, but may be applied to win- 
dow glass and plate-glass of every description, in 
place of grinding, for the purpose of making win- 
dow-blinds. It is also said to be peculiarly adapt- 
ed to produce beautiful s>j>ecimeiis of art, for the 
windows oi altar-pieces, libraries, museums, 
coach-windows^ and for the glass used in ornamen- 
tal buildingj of all descriptions. This invention 
has another advantage over the common method, J 
by the work wearing much cleaner than the work 
of ground gUissi; the surface of which being frac- 
tured by the action of the wheel, &cc. is therefore 
liable to gather dirt on the rough unpolished parts 
of the borders, &c. 

To make the Bologna phial. 
The Bologna, or philosophical phial, is a small 
vessel of glass, which has been suddenly cooled, 
open at the upper end, and rounded at the bottom. 
It IS made so thick at the hoitom, that it will bear 
a smart blow against a hard body, without break- 
ing; but if a little pebble, or piece of flint, is let fsll 
into it, it immediately era.-.ks, and the bottom falls 
into pieces: but, unless the pebble or iiint is large 
and angular enough to scratch the surface of the 
glass, it will not break. 

To make Prince RvberVs drops. 
Prince Rui)ert's drops are made by letting drops 
of melted glass fall into cold water; the drop as- 
sumes by that means an oval form with a tail oi 
neck resembling a retort. They possess this sin- 



376 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



gular property, that if a small portion of the tail 
is broken off, the whole bursts into powder, with 
an explosion, and h considerable shock is commu- 
nicated to the hac Ihat grasps it. 

To break gaits in any required way. 
Dip a piece of worsted thread in spirits of tur- 
pentine, wrap it round the glass in the direction 



required to be broken, and then set fire to the 
thread, or apply a red hot wire round the glass, 
and if it does not immediately crack, throw cold 
water on it while the wire remains hot. By this 
means glass that is broken may often be fashioned 
and rendered useful for a variety of purposes. 



GIiASS. 



To manufacture glass. 

Glass is a combination of sand, flint, spar, or 
some other silicious substances, with one or other 
of the fixed alkalies, and in some cases with a me- 
tallic oxide. Of the alkalies, soda is commonly 
preferred; and of the silicious substances, white 
sand is most in repute at present, as it requires no 
preparation for coarse goods, while mere washing 
in water is sufScient Sfor those of a finer quality. 
The metallic oxide, usually employed, is litharge, 
or some other preparation of lead, as being the 
cheapest metal. 

The silicious matter should be fused in contact 
with something called a flux. The substances pro- 
per for this purpose are lead, borax, arsenic, nitre, 
or any alkaline matter. The lead is used in the 
state of red lead; and the alkalies are soda, pearl- 
ashes, sea-salt, and wood-ashes. When red lead 
is used alone, it gives the glass a yellow cast, 
and requires the addition of nitre to correct it. 
Arsenic, in the same manner, if used in excess, is 
apt to render the glass milky. For a perfectly 
transparent glass, the pearl-ashes are found much 
superior to lead; perhaps better than any other 
flux, except it be borax, which is too expensive to 
be used, except for experiments, or for the best 
looking-glasses. 

The materials for making glass must first be re- 
duced to powder, which is done in mortars or by 
horse mills. After sifting out the coarse parts, the 
proper proportions of si .ex and flux are mixed to- 
geuier, and put into the calcining furnace, where 
they are kept in a moderate heat for 1 or 6 hours, 
being frequently stirred about during the process. 
When taken out, the matter is called frit. Frit is 
easily converted into glass by only pounding it, and 
vitrifying it in the melting pots ot the glass furnace; 
but in making fine glass, it will sometimes require 
a small addition of flux to the frit to correct any 
mult. For, as the flux is the most expensive arti- 
cle, the manufacturer will rather put too little at 
first than otherwise, as he can remedy this defect 
in the melting pot. The heat in the furnace must 
be kept up until the glass is brought to a state of 
perfect fusion; and during this process any scum 
which arises must be removed by ladles. When 
the glass is perfectly melted, the glass-blowers 
commence their operations. 

For the best flint-glass, 120 lbs. of white sand, 
50 lbs. of red lead, &) lbs, of the best pearl ashes, 
20 lbs. of nitre, and 5 oz. of magnesia; if a pound 
or two of arsenic be added, the composition will 
fuse much quicker, and with a lower tempera- 
lure. 

For a cheaper flint-glass, take 120 lbs. of white 
sand, 35 lbs. of pearl-ashes, 40 lbs. of red lead, 
13 Jbs. of nitre, 6 lbs. of arsenic, and 4 oz. of 
magnesia. 



This requires a long heating to make clear glass; 
and the heat should be brought on gradually, or 
the arsenic is in danger of subliming before the 
fusion commences. A still cheaper composition 
is made by omitting the arsenic in the foregoing, 
and substituting common sea-salt. 

For the best German crystal glass, take 120 Ids, 
of calcined flints or white sand, the best pearl- 
ashes, 70 lbs. saltpetre, 10 lbs. arsenic, ^ lb. and 
5 oz. of magnesia. Or, a cheaper composition for 
the same purpose is 120 lbs. of sand or flints, 46 
lbs. of pearl-ashes, 7 lbs. of nitre, 6 lbs. of arsenic, 
and 5 oz. of magnesia. This will require a long 
continuance in the furnace; as do all others where 
much of the arsenic is employed. 

For looking-glass plates, washed white sand, 60 
lbs. purified pearl-ashes, 25 lbs. nitre, 15 lbs. and 
7 lbs. of borax. If properly managed, this glass 
will be colourless. But if it should be tinged by 
accident, a trifling quantity of arsenic, and an equal 
quantity of magnesia, will correct it; an ounce of 
each may be tried first, and the quantity increased 
if necessary. 

The ingredients for the best crown-glass must 
be prepared in the same manner as for looking- 
glasses, and mixed in the following proportions: 
60 lbs. of white sand, 30 lbs. of pearl-ashes, and 15 
lbs. of nitre, 1 lb. of borax, and half a pound of 
arsenic. 

The composition for common green window 
glass is, 120 lbs. of white sand, 30 lbs. of unpuri 
fied pearl-ashes, wood-ashes, well burnt and sifted 
60 lbs. common salt, 20 lbs. and 5 lbs. of arsenic 

Common green bottle-glass is made from 200 lbs. 
of wood-ashes, and 100 lbs. of sand; or 170 lbs. 
of ashes, 100 lbs. of sand, and 50 lbs. of the lava 
of an iron furnace: these materials must be wel. 
mixed. 

The materials employed in the manufactory of 
glass pre bv chemists reduced to three classes, 
namely, alkalies, earths, and metallic oxides. 

The fixed alkalies may be employed indiffiirently; 
but soda is preferred in this com.try. The soda 
of commerce is usually mixed with common salt, 
and combined with carbonic acid. It is proper to 
purify it from both of these foreign bodies before 
using it. This, however, is seldom done. 

The earths are silica (the basis of flints), lime, 
and sometimes a little alumina (the basis of clay). 
Silica constitutes the basis of glass. It is employ- 
ed in the state of fine sands or flints: and some- 
times, for making very fine glass, rock crystals are 
employed. Wlien sand is used, it ought, if possi- 
ble, to be perfectly white, for when it is coloured 
with metallic oxides, t!ie transparency of the glass 
is injured. Such sand can only be employed foi 
very coarse glasses. It is necessary to free the sand 
from all the loose earthy particles with which it 



GIASS. 



377 



may be mixed, which ia done by washing i^ell 
with water. 

Lime renders glass less brittle, and enables it to 
withstand better the action of the atmosphere. It 
ought in no case to exceed thts 20th part of the 
silica employed, otherwise it corrodes the glass 
pots. This indeed may be prevented by throwing 
a little clay into the melted glass; bat in that case 
a green glass only is obtained. 

The metallic oxides employed are the red oxide 
of lead or litharge, and tlie white oxide of arsenic. 
The red oxide of lead, when added in suiRcient 
quantity, enters into fusion with silica, and forms 
a milky hue like the dial plate of a watch. When 
any combustible body is present, it is usual in some 
manufactories to add a little white oxide of arsenic. 
This supplying oxygen, the combustible is burnt, 
and flies on, while the revived arsenic is at the 
same time volatilized. 

There are several Kinds of glass adapted to dif- 
ferent uses. The best and most beautiful are the 
flint and the plate-glass. These, when well made, 
are perfectly transparent and colourless, heavy and 
brilliant. They are composed of iixed alkali, pure 
silicious sand, calcined flints, and litharge, in dif- 
ferent proportinns. The flint glass contains a large 
quantity of oxide of lead, which by certain pro- 
cesses is easily separated. The plate-glass is pour- 
ed in the melted state upon a table covered with 
copper. The plate is cast half an inch thick, or 
more, and is ground down to a proper degree of 
thinness, and then polished. 

Crown-glass, that used for windows, is made 
without lead, chiefly of fixed alkali fused with sili- 
cious sand, to which is added some black oxide of 
manganese, which is apt to give the glass a tinge 
of purple. . 

Bottle-glass is the coarsest and cheapest kind: 
into this little or no fixed alkali enters the Compo- 
sition. It consists of alkaline earth combined with 
alumina and silica. In this country it is composed 
of sand and th"? refuse of the soap-boiler, which 
consists of the lime employed in rendering this al- 
kali caustic, and of the earthy matters, with which 
the alkali was contaminated. The most fusible is 
flint-glass, and the least fusible is bottle-glass. 

Flint-glass melts at the temperature of 10" 
Wedgewood, crown-glass at 30°, and bottle-glass 
at 47°. The specific gravity varies between 'i.4f 
and 3.38. 

Glass for looHng-glass plates, JVo. 1. 

Take of white sand, cleansed, sixty pounds, of 
purified pearl-ashes, twenty-five pounds, of salt- 
petre, fifteen pounds, and of borax, seven pounds. 

This composition should be continued long in 
the fire, which should be for some time strong, and 
afterwards more moderate, that the glass may be 
entirely free from bubbles before it be worked. It 
will be entirely clear of all colour, unless in case 
of some accident: but if any yellow tinge should, 
nevertheless, unfortunately infect it, there is no 
remedy, except by adding a small proportion of 
magnesia, which should be mixed with an equal 
quantity of arsenic, and after their being put into 
the glass, giving it a considerable heat again, and 
then suffering it to free itself from bubbles in a 
more moderate one, as before. If the tinge be 
slight, an ounce of magnesia may be first tried, and 
if that prove insuificient, the quantity must be in- 
creased, but the glass will always be obscure in pro- 
portion to the quantity that is admitted. 
Looking-glass plates, JVo. 2. 

Take of the white sand, 60 lbs. of pearl-ashes, 
SO lbs. of common salt, 10 lbs. of nitre, 7 lbs. and 
of borax, 1 lb. 

This rfass will run with as little heat as the for- 



mer, but it will be more brittle, and refract the 
rays of light in a greater degree. 

Crown or best window glass, JVo. 1. 

Take of white sand sixty pounds, of purified 
pearl ashes thirty pounds, of saltpetre fifteen 
pounds, of borax one pound, and of arsenic half a 
pound. 

This will he very clear and colourless, if the 
ingredients be good, apd will not be very dear. It 
will run with a moderate heat; but if it be desired 
to be yet more fusible and soft, half a pound or a 
pound more of arsenic may be added. 

It the glass should prove yellow, the magnesia 
must be used as above directed for the looking- 
glass. 

Cheaper kind of window glass, JVb. 2. 

Take of white sand sixty pounds, of unpurified 
pearl ashes twenty-five pounds, of common salt ten 
pounds, of nitre five pounds, of arsenic two pounds, 
and of magnesia one ounce and a half. 

This will be inferior to the above kind, but may 
be improved, where desired, by purifying the 
pearl-ashes. 

Common or green window glass, JVo. 3. 

Take of white sand sixty pounds, of unpurified 
pearl-ashes thirty pounds, of common salt ten 
pounds, of arsenic two pounds, and of magnesia 
2 oz. 

This is a cheap composition, and will not appear 
too green, nor be very deficient in transparency. 
Common or green window gla>,s, JVo. 4. 

Take of the cheapest kind of white sand, one 
hundred and twenty pounds, of unpurified pearl- 
ashes, thirty pounds, of wood-ashes, well burnt 
and sifted, 60 pounds, of common salt twenty 
pounds, and of arsenic five pounds. 

This composition is very cheap, and will pro- 
duce a good glass with a greenish cast. 
Best phial glass, JVb. 1. 

Take of white sand one hundred and twenty 
pounds, of unpurified pearl ashes fifty pounds, of 
common salt ten pounds, of arsenic five pounds, 
and of magnesia five ounces. 

This will be a very good glass for the purpose, 
and will work with a moderate heat, but requires 
time to become clear, on account of the pi-oportion 
of arsenic; when, however, it is once in good con- 
dition, it will come very near to the crystal glass. 

Cheapest green or comm'^n p/iial glass, JVo. 2. 

Takvi of the cheapest kind of white sand, one 
hundred and twenty pounds; of wood ashes, well 
burnt and sifted, eighty pounds; of pearl-ashes, 
twenty pounds; of common salt, fifteen pounds; 
of arsenic one pound. 

This will be green, but tolerably transparent, 
and will work with a moderate fire, and vitrify 
quickly with a strong one. 

Green or bottle glass. 

Take of wood-ashes two hundred pounds, and 
of sand one hundred pounds. Mix ihem thorough- 
ly well by grinding together. 

This is the due proportion where the sand is 
good, and the wood-ashes are used without any 
other addition. 

The same, with the additioji of scoria. 

Take of wood-ashes one hundred and seventy 
pounds; of sand one hundred pounds; and of sco- 
ria, or clinkers, fifty pounds. Mix the whole well 
by grinding them together. 

The clinkers should be well ground before they 
be used, if they admit of il; but frequently they 
are too hard, and in that case they should be bro- 
ken into as small bits as can be done conveniently, 
and mixed with the other matter without any 
grinding. The harder they are, the less materi^ 
will be the powdering of t!hem as thev will the 

2 6 2 



s^s 



tJNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



sooner melt of themselves in the furnace, and con- 
seqi^ently mix with the other ingredients. 

The most perfect kind of flint-glass, JVo. 1. 

Take of the white sand, 120 lbs. red lead, 50 
lbs. the best pearl-ashes, 40 lbs. nitre, 20 lbs. mag- 
nesia, 5 oz. 

If this composition be fused with a very strong 
fire, and time be given to it, a glass will be pro- 
duced that will have the play of the best flint glass, 
and yet be hard and strong. It is not so cheap as 
the compositions given below, where arsenic or 
common salt is introduced, or-where more of the 
pearl-ashes are used; in either of which cases, 
savings may be made by diminisliing proportion- 
ably the quantities of nitre. But the qualities of 
this glass will be found to come nearer to the 
standard of perfection, which is to unite the lustre 
and hardness together in the greatest degree they 
are compatible with each other. 

If this composition be, however, desired to flux 
with less heat, and quicker, a pound or two of ar- 
senic may be added, which will be found eflTectually 
to answer the purpose. 

Flint glass, JVb. 2. 

Take of sand, 120 lbs. the best pearl-ashes, 54 
lbs. red lead, 36 lbs. nitre, 12 lbs. magnesia, 6 oz. 

This will require much the same heat as the 
other, but will be harder in its texture. If it be 
desired to be made more yielding to the fire, ar- 
senic may be added, or the quantity of sand may 
be lessened. In these cases the glass will be softer 
and weaker. 

Flint-glass, JVb. 3. 

Take of white sand, 120 lbs. the best pearl-ashes, 
.35 lbs. arsenic, 6 lbs. magnesia, 4 oz. 

This glass will require a considerable time in 
the fire to become clear, and must not, if it can be 
avoided, be strongly urged at first. This glass will 
not be so hard as those of the above compositions, 
but it will be very clear, and may be employed for 
large vessels, where a sufiicient thickness can be 
allowed to give them strength. 

Cheaper composition of glass, JVo. 4. 

Take the proportions of the other ingredients 
given in the last, and omitting the arsenic, ,idd, in 
its stead, 15 lbs. of common salt. 

This will be more brittle than the last, and 
therefore cannot be recommended, unless for the 
fabrication of such kind of vessels, or other pieces, 
where the strength is of little moment. 

Cheapest composition of flint-glass, JVo. 5. 

Take of the white sand, 120 lbs. red lead, 30 
lbs. the best pearl-ashes, 20 lbs. nitre, 10 lbs. 
common salt, 15 lbs. arsenic, 6 lbs. 

This glass will fuse with a moderate heat, but 
requires time, like the last, to take off the milky 
appearance of the arsenic; it is yet softer than the 
last, and may therefore be deemed the worst kind 
of flint that can be made. 

Best German crystal-glass, J\ro. 6. 

Take of the calcined flints, or white sand, 120 
lbs. the best pearl-ashes, 70 lbs. saltpetre, 10 lbs. 
arsenic, ^ lb. magnesia, 5 oz. 

If the pearl-ashes be pure and good, this glass 
will equal the best of this kind that ever was made. 
Borax has been frequently used also iu the compo- 
sitions of this sort of glass, but its great price, 
without any equivalent advantage, will deter from 
the employing it in large manufactures, as there is 
no sort of transparent glass, (plate excepted,) that 
can bear tlie expense of it, 

German crystal-glass, JVb. 7. 

Take of calcmed flints, or white sand, 120 lbs. 
pearl-ashes, 46 lbs. magnesia, 5 oz. 

This composition requires a long continuance 
of heat, on account of the arsenic, for the reason 
before given. It produces a glass equally or more 



tra;^sparent and colourless than tl>e preceding, but 
sorhewhat more brittle. The arsenic is, hoivever, 
so disagreeable an ingredient, from the deleterious 
qualities of the fnraes, which will necessarily rise 
copiously till the fusion of the other ingredients 
check it, that, where the advantage is not more 
considerable than the saving arising from the dif- 
ference of these two recipes, it is sca.-cely worth 
while to submit to the inconvenience of it. 
To atmeal glass. 

Nealing, as it is called by the workmen, is a 
process in the glass houses, and consists in putting 
the glass vessels, as soon as they are formed, and 
while they are yet hot, into a furnace or an oven, 
not so hot as to re-melt them, and in which they 
are suffered to cool gradually. This is found to 
prevent their breaking easily, particularly on ex- 
posure to heat. 

A similar process is used for rendering cast-iroa 
vessels less brittle, and the effect depends on the 
same principles. 

To polish and grind glass. 

To grind plate-glass, lay it horizontally upon a 
flat stone table, made of a very fine grained free- 
stone; and fcr its greater security, plaster it dowa 
with mortar or stucco. The store table is sup- 
ported by a stronj,!; wooden frame, with a ledge all 
round its edges, rising about two inches above the 
glass. Upon the plate to be ground is laid another 
rough glass, not above half as big, and so loose as 
to slide upon the former; but cemented to a wooden 
plank, to guard it from the injury it must other- 
wise receive from the scraping of the wheel where- 
to the plank is fastened, and from the weights laid 
upon it to promote the triture or grinding of the 
glasses. The whole is covered with a wheel made 
of hard light wood, about six inches in diameter: 
by pulling of which backwards and forwards al- 
ternately, and sometimes turning it round, the 
workmen who always stand opposite to each other, 
produce a constant attrition between the two glass- 
es, and bring them to what degree of smoothness 
they please, by first pouring in water and coarse 
sand; after that, a finer sort of sand, as the work 
advances, till at last they, pour in the powder of 
smalt. As the upper or incumbent glass become! 
smooth, it must be removed, and another, from 
time to time, substituted for it. 

The engine j'*st described is called a mill by the 
workmen, and is employed only in grinding the 
largest-sized glasses. In grinding lesser glasses, 
they usually work without a wheel, having four 
wooden handles fastened to the corners of the 
stone that loads the upper plank, by which they 
work it about. The grinders' part done, the glass 
is turned over to the yjolisher, who, with fine pow- 
der of tripoli stone or emery, brings it to a per- 
fect evenness and lustre. The instrument made 
use of in this branch, is a board furnished with a 
felt and small roller, which the workman moves 
by means of a double handle at both ends. The 
artist, in working this roller, is assisted by a 
wooden hoop, or spring, to the end of which it is 
fixed; for the spiing, by constantly bringing the 
roller back to the same points, facilitates the action 
of the workman's arm. 

7'o make frit. 

Frit, in the glass manufacture, is the matter or 
ingredients of which glass is to be made, when 
they have been calcined or baked in a furnace. 
There are three kinds of frit : the first, crystal frit, 
or that for crystal or clear glass, is made with salt 
of pulverine and sand. The second and ordinarj 
frit is made of the bare ashes of the pulverine o» 
barilla, without extracting the salt from them. 
This makes the ordinary white or crystal glass. 
The third is frit for green glasses, made of coii.- 



GLASS. 



379 



mon ashes, without any preparation. This last 
frit will require ten or twelve hours baking. The 
materials in each are to be finely powdel-ed, wash- 
ed, and searced; then equally mixed, and frequent- 
ly stirred together in the melting pot. 
To 'mn^ pearl-ashes, or any other Jixed alkaUne 
salt to the highest degree of purity. 

Take of the best pearl-ashes, 3 lbs. and of salt- 
petre, 6 oz. Pound them together in a glass or 
marble mortar, till they are thoroughly well mix- 
ed, and then put part of them into a large crucible, 
and set it in a furnace, where it may undergo a 
strong heat. When the part of the matter that 
was first put into the crucible is heated red hot, 
throw in the rest gradually, and if the crucible will 
not contain the whole, pour part of the melted 
matter out on a moistened stone, or marble; and 
having made room in the crucible, put in the rest, 
and let it continue there likewise till it be red hot. 
Pour it out then as the other, and afterwards put 
the whole into an earthen, or very clean iron pot, 
with 10 pints of water, and heat it over the fire, 
till the salts be entirely melted. Let it then be 
taken off the fire, stand till it be cold, and after- 
wards filter it through paper in a pewter cullender. 
When it is filtered, return the fluid again into the 
pot, and evaporate the salt to dryness, which will 
then be as white as snow, the nitre having burnt 
bU the phlogistic matter that remained in the 
pearl-ashes alter their former calcination. 
To polish optical glasses. 

The operation of polishing optic glasses, after 
being properly ground, is one of the most difficult 
points of the whole process. Before the polishing 
is begun, it is proper to stretch an even well 
wrought piece of linen over the tool, dusting upon 
it some very fine tripoli. Then taking the glass 
in the band, run it round forty or fifty times upon 
the tool, to take off the roughness of the glass 
about the border of it. This cloth is then to be 
removed, and the glass to be polished upon the 
naked tool, with a compound powder, made of 
four parts tripoli mixed with one of fine blue vi- 
triol; six or eight grains of which mixture are suffi- 
cient for a glass five inches broad. This powder 
must be wetted with eight or ten drops of clear vi- 
negar in the middle of the tool; being first mixed 
and softened thoroughly with a very fine small 
muller. Then, with a nice brush, having spread 
this mixture thinly and equably upon the tool, take 
some very fine tripoli, and slrew it thinly, and 
equably, upon the tool so prepared; after which, 
take the glass to be polished, -viped very clean, 
and apply it on the tool, and move it gently twice 
or thrice in a straight line backwards and for- 
wards; then take it off, and observe whether the 
marks of the tripoli, sticking to the glass, are 
equably spread over the whole surface: if not, it is 
a sign that either the tool or glass is too warm; in 
in which case wait awhile and try it again, till thd 
glass takes the tripoli every where alike. Then 
begin to polish boldly, there being no danger of 
spoiling the figure of the glass, which in the other 
case would infallibly happen. 
To purify pearl-ashes for the manufacture of 
mirrors. 

Take any quantity of the best pearl-ashes, and 
dissolve tliera in four times their weight of water 
boiling, which operation may be best performed in 
a pot of cast iron. When they are dissolved, let 
the solution be put into a clean tub, and suffered to 
remain there twenty-four hours or longer. Let 
the clear part of the fluid be then decanted off froni 
the dregs or sediment, and put back into the iron 
pot, in which the water must be evaporated away 
till the salts be left perfectly dry again. They 
should then^ if not used immediately, be kept in 



stone jars, well secured from moisture and air, til' 
such time as they are wanted. 

Great care should be always taken in this treat- 
ment of the salts, to keep the iron pot thoroughly 
clean from rust, which would give a yellow tinge 
to the glass, not to be removed witliout greatly in- 
juring it. ^ 

GLASS AND PASTES TO IMITATE ^RB- 
CIOUS STO>rES, &c. 

The best and hardest ^toss for receiving' colour 

j\ro. I. 

Take of the best sand, cleansed by washing, 
twelve pounds, of pearl-ashes, or fixed alkaline 
salt, purified with nitre, seven pounds, of salt-pe- 
tre, one pound, and of borax, half a pound. 

The sand being first reduced to powder in a 
glass or flint mortar, tne other ingredients should 
be put to it, and the whole well mixed by pound- 
ing them together. 

Sest glass, but not so hard, JVb. 2. 

Take of the white sand cleansed, twelve pounds, 
of pearl-ashes, purified with salt-petre, seven 
pounds, of nitre, one pound, of borax, half a pound, 
and of arsenic, four ounces. 

Proceed as in the last, but if the glass be requir- 
ed to melt with yet less heat, a pound of borax 
may be used instead of the half pound, and a pound 
of common salt may be added ; but this last is apt 
to make the glass more brittle, which is an injury 
done to such as is to be cut into very small pieces, 
and ground with so many angles in the figure, in 
imitation of jewels. 
Soft glass or paste for receiving colours, JVo. 3. 

Take of white sand cleansed, six pounds, of red 
lead, three pounds, of purified pearl-ashes, two 
po'inds, and of nitre, one pound. 

Proceed with the mixture as with the foregoing. 
Glass or paste, softer than the above, JVo. 4. 

Take of white sand, cleansed, 6 lbs. of red lead, 
and purified pearl-ashes, each 3 lbs. of nitre, 1 lb. 
of borax, half a pound, and of arsenic, 3 oz. 

This is very soft and will fuse with a very gentle 
heat, but requires some time to become clear, on 
account of the arsenic. It may even be prepared • 
and tinged in a common fire without a furnace, if 
the pots containing it can be surrounded by burn- 
ing coals, without danger of their falling into it. 
The borax, being a more expensive ingredient 
than the others, may be omitted where a somewhat 
greater heat can be applied, and the glass is not in- 
tended for very nice purposes; or a pound of com- 
mon salt may be instituted in its place; but the 
glass will be more clear and perfect, and free it- 
self much sooner from bubbles, where the horix 13 
used. 

This glass will be very soft, and will not bear 
much water, if employed for rings, buckles, or 
such imitations of stones as are exposed to much 
rubbing. But for ear-rings, ornaments worn on 
the breast, or such others as are but seldom put on, 
it may last a considerable time. 

In all these soft compositions, care should be 
taken that part of the sand be not left unvitrified 
in the bottom of the pot, as will sometimes hap- 
pen, for in that case tii- glass, abounding too much 
with salt and lead, will not bear the air, but oeing 
corrodechby it, will soon contract a mistiness and 
specks in the surface, which will entirely efface all 
the lustre of the paste. 

Hard glass of a full btue colour, JVo. I. 

Take of the composition of hard glass. No. 1 or 
2, ten pounds, zafi're, 6 dr. and of magnesia, 2 dr^ 
Proceed as with the above. 

If this glass be of too deep a colour the propor> 



380 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



tion of the zafTre and magnesia to the glass may be 
diminished; and if it verge too much on the pur- 
ple, to which cast it will incline, the magnesia 
should be omitted. If a very cool or pure blue be 
wanted, instead of the magnesia, half an ounce of 
calcined copper may be used, and the proportion 
of zaffre diminished by one half. 

Paste of a full blue colour, JVo. 2. 
Take of the composition for paste, No. 1 or 2, 
ten pounds, and proceed as with the foregoing. 
Hard glass resembling the sapphire, JVb. 3. 

Take of tlie compositions for hard glass. No. 1 
or 2, ten pounds, of zaffre, three 'raehms and one 
scruple, of calx cafFei, or precipitation of gold by 
tin, one drachm. Proceed as with the above. 
Cheaper hard glass for ditto, JVb. 4. 

As the foregoing, only, instead of the precipi- 
tate of gold, use two drachms and two scruples of 
magnesia. 

If this be well managed, the colour will be very 
good, and the glass, when set and cut, will not be 
easily distinguishable from the true sapphire; but 
the preceding will be a finer colour, as there is a 
foulness in. the tinge of the magnesia, which will 
always diminish, in some degree, the effect of 
brig'ilter colours, when with them. 

Paste resembling the sappMre, JVo. 5. 

Take of the composition for paste, No. 3 or 4, 
and proceed as with the foregoing. 

It is not worth while to bestow the expense of 
colouring paste with the gold, and it is therefore 
more expedient, in the case of such, to use the 
other method. 

Hard glass and paste for sapphire, by means of 
smalt, JVo. 6. 

Take of the compositions for hard glass and 
paste, any quantity, and mix with them one-eighth 
of their weight of smalt, the brightest and most 
inclining to purple that can be procured. 

If it be desired to give a more purple tinge, 
magnesia may be added in the proportion required. 

Hard glass resembling eagle marine, JVo. 7. 

Take of the composition for hard glass. No. 1 
or 2, ten pounds, of copper, highly calcined with 
sulphur, three ounces, and of zaffre, one scruple. 
Proceed as with the foregoing. 

Paste for eagle marine, JVo. 8. 

Take of the composition for paste, No. 1 or 2, 
ten pounds, and proceed as with the above. 

Hard glass of a gold or yellow colour, JVo. 1. 

Take of the composition for hard glass, No. 1 
or 2, ten pounds, but omit the salt-petre, and for 
every pound add an ounce of calcined borax, or, if 
that do not render the glass sufficiently fusible, two 
ounces, of red tartar, the deepest coloured that can 
be procured, ten ounces, of magnesia, two ounces, 
of charcoal of sallow, or any other soft kind, two 
draclfms. Proceed as with the rest. 

Paste of a gold or yellow colour, JVo. 2. 

Take of the composition for paste. No. 3 or 4, 
prepared without the salt-petre, ten pounds, of 
iron, strongly calcined, one ounce and a half. Pro- 
ceed as with the others. 

Th' crude tartar and the charcoal must not be 
Used where lead enters into the composition of the 
glass, and the nitre may be spared, because the 
yellow tinge, given to the '"'ass by the lead, on ac- 
count li which the nitre is used, is no detriment 
in this case, but only adds to the proper colour. 
This colour may also be prepared by crude anti- 
mony, as well as th ; calcined iron, but it is more 
difficult to be managed, and not superior in its 
effect. 

Hard glass resembling the topaz, JVo. 3. 

Take of the composition for hard glass, No. 1 
•r 2, ten pounds, and an equal quantity of the gold 



f coloured hard glass. Powder and fuse thern to- 
gether. 

As there Is a great variety in the colour of the 
topaz, some being a deeper yellow, and others 
slightly tinged, the proportions of the yellow glass 
to the white may be accordingly varied at plea-we, 
the one here given being for the deepest. 
Paste resembling the topaz, JVo. 4. 

This may be done in the same manner as the 
preceding, but the salt-petre may be omitted in 
the original composition of the glass, and for the 
resemblance of the very slightly coloured topazes 
neither the gold coloured paste nor any other ting- 
ing matter need be added, that of the lead being 
sufficient, when not destroyed by the nitre. 
Glass resembling the chrysolite, JVo. 5. 

Take of the compositions for hard glass. No. 1 
or 2, ten pounds, of calcined iron six drachms. 
Proceed as with the above. 

Paste resembling the chrysolite, JVo. 6. 

Take of the composition for paste. No. 3 or \^ 
prepared without salt-petre, ten pounds, and of 
calcined iron, five drachms. Proceed as with the 
rest. 

Hard glass resembling the emerald, JVo. 1 . 

Take of the composition for hard glass. No. I 
or 2, nine pounds, of copper precipitated from 
aquafortis, three ounces, and of precipitated iron, 
two drachms. 

Paste resembling the emerald, JVo. 2. 

Take of the composition for paste, No. 1 or 2, 
and proceed as with the above; but if the salt-petre 
be omitted in the preparation of the paste, a less 
proportion of the iron will serve. 
Hard glass of a deep and very bright purple colour, 
JVo. 1. 

Take of the composition for hard glass. No. 1 
or 2, ten pounds, of zaffre, six drachms, of gold 
precipitated by tin, one drachm. Proceed as with 
the rest. 

Hard glass of a deep purple colour, JVo. 2. 

Take of the compositions for hard glass. No. 1 
Or 2, 10 lbs. of magnesia, 1 oz. and of zaffre, ^ oz. 
Proceed as with the other. 

Paste of a deep purple colour, JVo. 3. 

Take of the composition for pastes. No. 3 or 4, 
10 pounds, and treat them as the foregoing. 
Hard glass of the colour of the amethyst, JVo, 4. 

Take of the composition of hard glass, No. 1 or 
2, 10 pounds, of magnesia, 1^ oz. and of zaffre, 1 
dr. Proceed as wich the rest. 

Paste of the colour of the amethyst, JVo. 5, 

Take of the composition for paste, No. 1 or 2, 
10 pounds, and treat it as the preceding. 
Paste resembling the diamnnd. 

Take of the vhite sand, 6 lbs. of red lead, 4 lbs. 
of pearl ashes, purified as above directed, 3 lbs. 
of nitre, 2 lbs. of arsenic, 5 oz. and of magnesia, 
I scruple. Proceed as with the others, but con- 
tinue the fusion for a considerable time on account 
of the large proportion of arsenic. 

If this composition be thoroughly vitrified, and 
kept free from bubbles, it will be very white, and 
have a very great lustre; but, if on examination it 
appears to incline to yellow, another scruple oi 
more of the magnesia may be a-^ded. It may be 
rendered harder by diminishing the proportion of 
lead, and increasing that of tl'ie salts, or fusing it 
with a very strong fire; but the diminution of >the 
proportion of lead will make it have less of the 
lustre of the diamnnd. 

Hard glass perfectly black. 

Take of the composition for hard glass. No. 1 
or 2, 10 lbs. of zaffre, 1 oz. of magnesia, and of 
iron, strongly calcined, each 7 drachms. Proceed 
as with the rest. 



GLASS. 



381 



Paste perfect'y black. 
Take of the composition for paste, No. 1 or 2, 
prepared with the salt-petre, 10 lbs. of zaffre, I 
oz. of magnesia, 6 drs. and of iron, highly cal- 
cined, 5 drs. Proceed as with the others. 
TVhite opaque glass, JVo. I. 
Take of the composition for hard glass, No. 1 or 
2, 10 lbs. of horn, ivory, or bone, calcined per- 
fectly white, I lb. Proceed as with the others. 
Paste of an opaque -wldteness, JVo. 8. 
Take of the v-omposition. No. 3 or 4, 10 lbs. and 
make the same addition as to the above. 
Glass of an opaque wliitenesi formed by arsemc, 

j\ro. 3. 

Take of flint glass 10 pounds, and of very white 
arsenic, 1 pound. Powder and mix Ihem thorough- 
ly, by grinding them together, and then fuse them 
with a moderate heat till they be well incorporated, 
but avoid liquefying them more than to make a per- 
fect union. 

This glass has been made at a considerable manu- 
factory neap London, in great quantities, and has not 
only been formed into a variety of difl^erent kinds 
of vessels, but, being very white and fusible with 
a moderate heat, has been much used, as a white 
ground, foJ> enamel in dial plates, and other pieces 
which have not occasion to go several times into 
the fire to be finished. It will not, however, bear 
repeated burnings, nor a strong heat continued for 
any length of time, when applied to this purpose, 
without becoming transparent, to which likewise 
the smoke of a coal fire will also greatly contri- 
bute; but it answers the end very well in many 
cases, though even in those, enamel of the same 
degree of whiteness would be preferable, as this 
is always brittle, and of less firm and tenacious 
texture. 

Hard glass, or paste, formed by calx of tin or an- 
timony, JVb. 4. 

Take of any of the compositions for hard glass, 
or pastes 10 pounds, of calcined tin (commonly 
called putty), or of antimony, or tin calcined by 
means of nitre, 1^ lbs.; mix them well by grinding 
them together, and then fuse them with a mode- 
rate heat. 

The glass of this kind made with the composi- 
tion for pastes, differs in nothing from white ena- 
mel, but in the proportion of the calx of tin and 
antimony. 

Semi-transparent -wMte glass and paste resembling 
the opal, JVo. 5. 

Take of any of the compositions for hard glass, 
or paste, 10 pounds, of horn, bone, or ivory, cal- 
cined to a perfect whiteness, half a pound. Pro- 
ceed as with the rest. 

This white hard glass is much the same with the 
German glass formerly brought here in porringers, 
cream pots, vinegar cruets, and other such pieces, 
of which we frequently meet with the remains. 
Fine red glass resembling the ruby, JVo. 1. 

Take of the hard glass. No. 1 or 2, 1 pound, of 
the calx caffei, or gold prepared by precipitation 
with tin, 3 drachms. Powder the glass, and grind 
the calx of gold afterwards with it in a glass, flint, 
or agate mortar, and then fuse them together. 

This may be made of a stronger or more diluted 
colour, by varying the proportion of the gold, in 
adjusting which, proper regard should be had to 
the application of the glass when made; for where 
this glass is set in rings, bracelets, or other close 
work, where foils can be used, a great saving may 
be made with regard to the colour of it, without 
much injury to the efi^ect; but for ear-rings, or 
other purposes where the work is set transparent, 
a full strong colour should be given, which may be 
effected by the proportions directed in this com- 
position. 



Paste resembling the ruby, JVo. 2. 

Take of the pa-te, No. 3 or 4, 1 lb. and of calx 
caffei, or precipitation of gold by tin, 2 drachma. 
Proceed in the mixture as with the above. 

This will be equally beautiful with the above, 
and defective only in softness; but as that greatly 
takes away the value for some purposes, such as is 
appropriated to them may be tinged in a cheaper 
manner by the following means. 

Jl cheaper paste resembling the ruby, JVo. 3. 

Take oi the composition for paste, No. 3 or 4, 
half a pound, of glass of antimony, half a pound, 
and of the precipitation of gold by tin, 1 drachm 
and a half. Proceed as witli the others. 

This will be considerably cheaper, and will have 
much the same effect, except that it recedes more 
from the crimson to the orange. 

Hard glass resembUiig tlw garnet, JVo. 4. 

Take of the composition for liard glass, No. 1 or 
2, 3 pounds, of glass of antimony, 1 pound, of 
magnesia, and of the precipitate of gold by tin, 
each, 1 drachm. 

Tiiis composition is very beautiful, but too ex- 
pensive, on account of the gold, for the imitation 
of garnets for common purposes; on which account 
the following may be substituted. 

Hard glass resembling the garnet, JVo. 5. 

Take ot the composition, No. 1 or 2, 2 lbs. ot 
the glass of antimony, 2 lbs. and of magnesia, 2 dr. 

If the colour be found too dark and purple in 
either this or the preceding composition, the pro- 
portion of magnesia must be diminished. 
Paste of the colour of garnet, JVo. 6. 

Take of the composition for paste, No. 1 or 2, 
and proceed as with the above. 
Hard glass resembling the vinegar garnet, JVo. 7. 

Take of the composition. No. 1 or 2, two 
pounds, of glass of antimony, 1 pound, of iron, 
highly calcined, half an ounce. Mix the iron with 
the uncoloured glass, and fuse them together till 
the mass be perfectly transparent, then add the 
glass of antimony, powdered, stirring tlie mixture 
with the end of a tobacco pipe, and continue them 
in the heat till the whole be perfectly incorporated. 
Paste resembling the vinegar garnet, JVo.- 8. 

Take of the composition for paste. No. 3 or 4, 
and proceed as with the foregoing. 

Fictitious or counterfeit lapis lazuli. 

Take of any of the preceding compositions foi 
hard glass, or paste, 10 pounds, of calcined bones 
horn, or ivory, three quarters of a pound, of zaffre, 
1 ounce. Fuse the uncoloured composition with 
the zaffre and magnesia, ViU a very deep transpa- 
rent blue glass be produced. The mass being 
cold, powder it, and mix it with the calcined mat- 
ter, by grinding them together. After which fus«f 
them wTth a moderate he:: till they be thoroughly 
incorporated, and then form the melted mass into 
cakes, by pouring it on a clean bright plate of cop- 
per or iron. 

Another. 

If it be desired to have it veined with gold, it 
may be done by mixing the gold powder, with an 
equal weight of calcined borax, and tempering 
them with oil of spike, by which mixture, the 
cakes being painted with such veins as are desired, 
they must be put into a furnace of a moderate heat, 
and the gold will be cemented to the glass as firm- 
ly as if the veins had been natural. 
Another. 
If the counterfeit lapis lazuli be desired of a 
lighter hue, the quantity of zaffre and magnesia 
must be diminished; or, if it be required to bf|j| 
more transparent, that of the calcined horn, bone, 
or ivory, should be lessened. 
Another. 
Instead of zaffre, where that cannot be obtained. 



382 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



a proper proportion of smalt may be substituted. 
And in all cases, indeed, it may be a more certain 
way to form the zaflTi-e and vitrifying ingredients 
into glass alone, and tlien having powdered them 
with the calcined bones or horns, infuse them a se- 
cond time, and make them into cakes in the man- 
ner directed; for the fluxing power of the ingredi- 
ents of the glass is so retarded by the calcined 
bone or liorn, that it may, in some cases, fail to 
act sufficiently on the zaffre to vitrify it perfectly. 
To make glass resembling red cornelian. 

Take of the composition for hard glass, No, I or 
2, 2 pounds, of glass of antimony, 1 pound, of the 
calcined vitriol, called scarlet oker, 2 oz. and of 
magnesia, 1 dr. 

Fuse the glass of antimony and magnesia with 
the other glass first together, and then powder them 
well, and mix them with the scarlet oker, by 
grinding them together, and afterwards fuse the 
mixture with a gentle heat, till they are incorpo- 
rated; but the heat must not be continued longer 
than is absolutely required to form them into a 
vitreous mass. 

If it be desired to have the composition more 
transparent, part of tlie red oker must be omitted. 
Paste resembling the red comedan. 

Take of the composition for paste, No. 1 or 2, 
2 pounds, and proceed as with the above. 
Hard glass resembling -white cornelian. 

Take of the composition for hard glass, No. 1 
or 2, 2 pounds, of yellow oker, well washed, 2 
drachms, and of calcined bones, each 1 ounce. 
Mix them well by grinding them together, and 
fuse them with a gentle heat till the several ingre- 
dients oe well incorporated in a vitreous mass. 



Paste resembling -white comehan. 

Take of the composition for pastes. No. 1 or 2 ' 
1 pound, and proceed as with the foregoing. 
Hard glass or paste resembling the turquoise stone. 

Take of the composition for blue glass or paste,. 
No. 7 or 8, (being those resembling the eagle ma- 
rine) 10 pounds, of calcined bone, horn, or ivory, 
half a pound. Powder and mix them well, and 
then fuse them in a moderate heat till they be 
thoroughly incorporated. 

If the colour be not so deep as may be desired, 
a small proportion of smalt may be added. 
Bro-wn Venetiav glass -with gold spangles. 

Take of the composition for hard glass, No. 2, 
and the composition for paste. No. 1, each 5 
pounds, and of highly calcined iron, one ounce. 
Mix them well, and fuse them till the iron be per- 
fectly vitrified, and have tinged the glass of a deep 
transparent yellow brown colour. Powder this 
glass, and add to it two pounds of glass of anti- 
mony, being powdered, and mix them well, by 
grinding them together. Take part of this mix- 
ture, and rub into it fourscore or one hundred 
leaves of the counterfeit leaf of gold, commonly 
called Dutch gold; and, when the parts of the gold 
seem sufficiently divided, mix the powder con- 
taining it with the other part of the glass. Fuse 
the whole then with a moderate heat, till the pow- 
der runs into a vitreous mass, fit to be wrought into 
any of the figures or vessels into which it is usually 
formed; but avoid a perfect liquefaction, because 
that destroys, in a short time, the equal diffusion 
of the spangles, and vitrifies, at least, part of the 
matter of which they are composed, converting 
the whole into a kind of transparent olive-colour- 
ed glass. 



XaiSCELXANSOUS RECSIPTS. 



TV make a road on M^Mams^s system. 

*^''^ is to be procured in some form in almost 
r»^j ?nrt of the country, and a road made of 
»«,.. « fecken stnne to the depth of ten inches, will 
b : "'^ooth, Bolid, and 'durable. 

'T'he size of »toiies for a road should be that of 
a hen's egg,, or half a pound weight. It must be 
in due proportion to the space occupied by a wheel 
of ordmary dimeasions jn a smooth level surface: 
this point of contact will be found to be longitu- 
dinally, about an ineh; and every piece of stone 
put into a road, which exceeds an inch in any of 
its dimensions, is mischievous. 

In repairing an old road no addition of materials 
is to be brought upon it, unless in any part it be 
found that there is not a quantity of clean stone 
equal to ten inches in thickness. 

The stone already in the road is to be loosened 
op and broken, so as no piece shall exceed six 
ounces in weight. The road is then to be laid as 
flat as possible, a rise of three inches from the 
centre to the side is sufficient for a road thirty feet 
wide. 

The stones when loosened in the road are to be 
gathered oft' by means of a strong heavy rake, 
with teeth two inches and a half in length, to the 
side of the road, and there broken, and on no ac- 
count are stones to be broken on the road. 

When the great stones have been removed, and 



none left in the road exceeding six ounces, the 
road is to be put in shape, and a rake employed 
to smooth the surface, which will at the same time 
bring to the surface the remaining stone, and will 
allow the dirt to go down. 

When the road is so prepared, the stones that 
have been broken by the side of the road are then 
to be carefully spread on it — not to be laid on it 
in shovels-full, but scattered over the surface, one 
shovel-full following another, and spreading over 
a considerable space. 

Only a small piece of road should be lifted at 
once; five men in a gang should be set to lift it all 
across: two men should continue to pick up and 
rake off the large stones, and to form the road for 
receiving the broken stone, the other three should 
break stones— the broken stone to be laid on as 
soon as the piece of road is prepared to receive it, 
and then break up another piece; two or three 
yards at one lift is enough. 

The proportioning the work among the five 
men must of course be regulated by ths nature of 
the road; when there are many very large stones, 
the three breakers may not be able to keep pace 
with the two men employed in lifting and forming, 
and when there are few large stones the contrary 
may be the case; in all this, the surveyor must 
judge and direct. 

Uut, while it is recommended to lift and rela^ 



MISCELLANEOUS, 



383 



roads which have been made with larg;e stone, or 
with large stone mixed with clay, chalk, op other 
miscliievous materials, there are many cases in 
wliich it would be highly unprofitable to lift aad 
relay a road, even if the materials should have 
been originally too large. 

When additional stone is wanted on a road that 
has consolidated by use, the old hardened surface 
of the road is to be loosened with a pick, in order 
to make the fresh materials unite witli the old. 

The only proper method of breaking stones, 
both for effect and economy, is by persons silling; 
the stones are to be placed in small heaps, and 
women, boj's, or old men, past hard labour, must 
sit down with small hammers and break them, so 
as none shall exceed six ounces in weight. 

Every road is to be made of broken stone, with- 
out tuixluie of earth, clay, chalk, <or any other 
matter that will imbibe water and be affected with 
frost; nothing is to be laid on the clean stone on 
pretence of binding; broken stone will combine by 
its own angles into a smooth solid surface that can- 
not be affected by vicissitudes of weather, or dis- 
placed by the action of wheels, which will ])ass 
over it without a jolt, and consequently without 
injuiy. 

Flint makes an excellent road, if due -attention 
be paid to the size; but, from want of that atten- 
tion, many of the flint roads are rough, loose, and 
expensive. 

Limestone, when properly prepared and applied, 
makes a smooth solid road, and becomes consoli- 
dated sooner than any other material; but from its 
nature is not the most lasting. 

Whinstone is the most durable of aP materials; 
and, wherever it is well and judiciously applied, 
the roads are comparatively good and cheap. 

The pebbles of Shropshire and Staffordshire are 
of a hard substance, and only require a prudent 
application to be made good road materials. 
To preserve milk. 

Provide bottles which must be perfectly clean, 
sweet and dry; draw the milk from the cow into 
the bottles, and as they are filled, immediately cork 
them well up, and fasten the corks with pack 
thread or wire. Then spread a little straw on the 
bottom of a boiler, on which place bottles with 
straw between them, until the boiler contains a 
sufficient quantity. Fill it up with cold water; 
heat the water, and as soon as it begins to boil, 
draw the fire, and let the whole gradually cool. 
When quite cold take out the bottles, and pack 
them with straw or saw-dust in hampers, and stow 
them in the coolest part of the house or ship. 
Milk preserved in this manner, although eighteen 
months in the bottles, will be as sweet as when 
first milked from the cow. 

To make a domestic telegraph. 

This instrument consists of two dials, divided 
in the same manner, the hands of which move at 
the same time. One of these dials is placed in 
the master's room; the other is placed where the 
servant is waiting. Each of the divisions, which 
can be multiplied at will, represents an order which 
is indicated by a letter, or by any other sign agreed 
upon. The master places the hand of his dial 
npon the sign of the order which he wishes to 
ti-ansmit, and immediately the signal is repeated 
in the servant's room. 

7'o construct barometers. 

The tubes intended for barometers ought to be 
sealed hermetically on both ends, immediately af- 
ter they are made at the glass-house, and to be 
kept in this state until they are litted up. Without 
~iis precaution, they are apt to be sullied with dust, 
noisture, and other imuurities, which it is after- 
•Wards almost impossible to remove on account of 



the smallness of their diameters. AVhen they are 
opened, which may be done with a file, care should 
be taken not to breathe into them, nor to wash them 
with spirit of wine, or other fluid, experience hav- 
ing proved that in tubes so treated, the mercor}' 
always stands a little below its proper level; this 
is owing to the adhesion of a little of tlie spirit of 
wine to the sides of the tube. When cleaning ia 
necessary, it must be done with a fine linen rag, 
that has been previously well dried. 

The tubes oiight to be as perfectly cylindrical 
as possible, though, in some cases, this is not ^b- 
soktely necessary. They should be about 33 
inches in length, and the diameter of their bore 
should be at least 2 or 2^ lines, otherwise the 
friction, and the capillary action, will be apt to 
aftect the free motion of the mercuiy. The glass 
should not be very thick, as it is apt in that case 
to break, when the mercury is boiled in the tube 
half a line is sufficient. 

Tne mercury ought to be perfectly pure and free 
from all foreign metals. The best is what has 
been recently revived from cinnabar; the common 
mercury of the shops being often adulterated in- 
tentionally with tin, lead, and bismuth, stands at 
various hei'j^nts in the tube, according to the nature 
and quantity of the foreign substances with which 
it is amalgamated. 

To purify the mercury. 

For this purpose, take a pound of cinnabar, and 
reduce it to powder: mix it well with five or six 
ounces oflron or steel filings; and, having put the 
mixture into an iron retort, expose the whole to 
the heat of a reverberatory furnace; the mercury 
will soon pass over in a state of great purity, and 
may be obtained by adapting to the retort an 
earthen receiver, which has been previously half 
filled with water. 

Process of filling the tube. 

Before being well introduced into the tube, the 
mercury ought to be well heated, or even boiled 
in a glazed earthen pipkin; in order to drive off 
any moisture which may adhere to it, but this will 
be unnecessary if the mercury has been recently 
revived. 

The mercury ought likewise to be boiled in the 
tube to exi<ei any air or moisture which may still 
remain actacned to it, or to the inside of the tube. 
This is done in the following manner: Pour as 
much mercury into the lube as will make it stand 
to the length of three or four inches; and introduce 
a long wire of iron to stir it during the boiling. 
Expose the mercury in the tube gradually to the 
heat of a chafing-dish of burning charcoal; and 
when it begins to boil, stir it gently with the iron 
wire, to facilitate the disengagement of the bubbles 
of the air. When the first portion of the mercury 
has been sufficiently boiled, and all the air extri- 
cated, remove the tube from the chafing-dish, and 
allow the whole to cool, taking care not to bring 
it into contact with any cold substance. Introduce 
an equal quantity of mercury, and treat it in the 
I same maimer, withdrawing tfie wire a little, so 
that it may not reach below the upper part of the 
mercury already freed from air. The chafing- 
dish must also be placed immediately under the 
mercury which has been last poured in. Repeat 
the same process with each successive portion of 
mercury, till tbe tube is filled, always applying the 
heat veiy cautiously; and be equally careful in al- 
lowing it to cool, before a fresh portion of mer- 
cury is poured in. 

To construct Mr Troughton^s improved marine 
barometer. 

The tube consists of two parts, joined together 
about five inches below the top. the bore in the 
upper part i)eing about 4-lUths of an inch, and in 



384 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



the lower part only 2-lOOths. By this construc- 
tion, partly from the difference of the bores, and 
partly from the greater friction in the lower end, 
the motion of the mercury is so much retarded, 
that any impulse given by the ship, having a ten- 
dency to raise it, will scarcely have produced a 
sensible effect, before an opposite impulse will be 
given, having a tendency to depress it. To coun- 
teract more effectually the effect? of the ship's mo- 
tions, the instrument is suspended in gymbals. 
The whoie is attached to the side of the cabin by 
two .ubes of brass, which slide one within the 
other, and render the instrument capable of being 
suspended at different distances from the place of 
support, that the bottom of it may not strike the 
sides of the cabin, during any heavy rolling of the 
vessel. The inner lube carries the gymbals. The 
external frame of the barometei" is a cylindrical 
tube of wood, on which slides a brass socket; and 
in this is inserted the innermost pair of pivots of 
thfe gymbals, or universal joints, which furnishes 
the instrument with a moveable point of suspen- 
sion. The top is terminated with a knob of brass, 
of a weight nearly equal to that of the mercury, 
&c. at the lower end. With respect to the posi- 
tion of the point of suspension, no genv^ral rule can 
be given. It is ''.bvious, however, that though this 
point were accurately determined for one particu- 
lar height of the mercury, it would not correspond 
to levery other. By the ingenious contrivance of 
Ml- Troughton, of placing a knob at the top, as a 
counterpoise to the weight of the mercury, the 
centre of gravily of the whole will be about the 
miJdle; and if the instrument were of the same 
sp^.ific gravity throughout, the point of suspension 
that would produce the smallest oscillations in the 
mefcuiy, would be about l-3d of the length of 
the instrument from the top, considering the lower 
part as a fixed point. But as this is not striltly the 
case, the point of suspension is best ascertained by 
experiment. The graduation is on two scales of 
ivory, about four inches long, for the reception of 
which, two opposite quarters of the cylindrical 
frame are crossed out through that length, their 
planes ],ointing towards the centre of the tube. 
The index is a very light one, and slides upon the 
glass tube without touching any other part. At 
the bottom is the usual screw, which pressing up 
the leather bag, prevents the mercury from mov- 
ing when the instrument is carried from one place 
to another. 

Fahrenheit's hydrometer. 

This consists of a hollow ball, with a counter- 
poise lielow, and a very slender stem above, termi- 
nating in a small dish. The middle or half length 
of the stem is distinguished by a fine line across. 
In tliis instrument every division of the stem is re- 
jected, and it is immersed in all experiments to 
the middle of the stem, by placing proper weights 
in the little dish above. Then as the part immers- 
ed is constantly of the same magnitude, and the 
whole weight of the hydrometer is known, this 
last weight added to the weights in the dish will be 
equal to the weight of fluids displaced by the in- 
strument, as all writers on hydrostatics prove; 
and, accordingly, the specific gravities of the com- 
mon forms of the tables will be had by the follow- 
ing proportion: As the whole weight of the hydro- 
meter and its load, wiien adjusted in distilled wa- 
ter, is to the number of 10 to, &e. so is the whole 
vveight when adjusted in any other fluid to the num- 
Der expressing its specific gravity. 

As the operation of weighing equal quantities of 
corrosive volatile fluids, to determine their specific 
gravities, requires considerable attention and stea- 
diness, and also a good balance, the floating instru- 
ment, called the hydrometer, has always been es- 
teemed by philosophers, as well as men of business. 



To construct FahrenheiVs thermometer. 

Fahrenheit's thermometer consists of a slender 
cylindrical tube, and a small longitudinal bulb 
To the side of the tube is annexed a scale divided 
into 600 parts, beginning with that of the severe 
cold experienced in Iceland in 1709, or that pro- 
duced by surrounding the bulb of the thermometer 
with a mixture of snow or beaten ice, and sal am- 
moniac or sea salt. This is marked at the begin- 
ning of the scale with O; the point at which tire 
mercury begins to boil is conceived to show the 
greatest degree of heat, and is made the limits of 
the scale. The distance between these two points 
is divided into 600 equal parts or degrees; and by 
trials it is found that the mercury stands at 32 of 
these divisions, when water just begins to freeze, 
or snow or ice just begins to thaw; it is therefore 
called the degree of the freezing point. When 
the tube is immersed in boiling water, the mercury 
rises to 212, which, therefore, is the boiling point, 
and is just 180 degrees above the former or freez- 
ing point. However, the present method of mak- 
ing the scale of these thermometers, which is the 
sort in most common use, is first to immerge the 
bulb of the thermometer in ice or snow, just be- 
ginning to thaw, and mark the place where the 
mercury stands, with the place where the mercury 
stands i.i the tube, which mark with the number 
212, exceeding the former by 180; dividing, there- 
fore, the intermediate space into 180 equal parts, 
will give the scale of the thermometer, and which 
may afterwards be continued upwards and down- 
wards with pleasure. 

To construct a common thermometer. 

In this thermometer the whole bulb of quicksil- 
ver, when immerged in boiling water, is conceiv- 
ed to be divided into 100,000 parts; and from this 
one fixed point the various degrees of heat, either 
above or below it, are marked in those parts of 
the scale by the various contractions or expan- 
sions of the quicksilver, in all the imaginable va- 
rieties of heat; some make the integer 100,000 
parts at freezing water, and from thence complete 
the condensations of the quicksilver in those parts; 
as all the common observations of the weather are 
thereby expressed by numbers increasing as the 
heat increases, instead of decreasing or counting 
the contrary way. However, it will not be very 
easy to determine exactly all the divisions from 
the alterations of the bulk of the contained fluid. 
And, besides, as glass itself is dilated by heat, 
though in a less proportion than quicksilver, it is 
only the excess of the dilatation ot the combined 
fluid above that of the glass that is observed; and 
therefore if different kinds of the glass be differ- 
ently affected by a given degree of heat, this will 
make the seeming difference in the dilatations of 
the quicksilver in the thermometers constructed on 
the Newtonian principle. 

To adjust the fixed points of thermometers. 

In adjt.sting the freezing, as well as the boiling 
point, the quicksilver in the tube ought to be kept 
in the same heat as that in the ball. When the 
freezing point is placed at a considerable distance 
from the ball, the pounded ice should be piled to 
such a height above the ball, that the error which 
can arise from the quicksilver in the remaining 
part of the tube not being heated equally with that 
in the ball, shall be very small, or the observed 
point must be corrected on that account according 
to the following table: — 

Heat of the air. CoiTection. 



42° 
52 
62 
72 
82 



,00087 
,00174 
,00261 
,00348 
.OO/kSS 



MISCELLANEOUS. 



385 



The correction in the table is expressed in 1000 
parts of the distance between the (rtciing point 
and the surface of the ice: e. g. if tlie freezing 
point stands seven inches above the surface of thsd 
ice and the heat of the room is 62, the point of 32° 
should be placed 7x00261, or 018 of an inch low- 
er than the observed point. A diagonal scale will 
facilitate this correction. In trying the heat of the 
liquors care should be taken that the quicksilver in 
the tube of the thermometer be heated to the same 
degree as that in the ball; or if this cannot be done 
conveniently, the observed heat should be correct- 
ed on that account. 

Portable barometer. 

This instrument consists in general of a tube of 
the usual length, passing through the upper parts 
of a wooden cistern, to which it is glued, and the 
bottom of which is made of leather. The tube 
being filled with mercury, which has been previ- 
ously well purged of air, and placed in a proper 
position, the superfluous mercury descends into 
the cistern, and assumes a level in the tube cor- 
responding with the weight of the external air. 
The surface of the mercury in the cistern is ad- 
usted to the same level by a screw, which presses 
more or less against the flexible leather at the bot- 
tom, and raises or depresses it at pleasure. From 
the line of this level, which is called zero, the scale 
commences and is reckoned upwards to the height 
of about 32 inches; the actual divisions of the scale 
begin at about 15 inches. 

To make portable glue. 

Take one pound of the best glue, boil and strain 
it very clear; boil likewise four ounces of isinglass, 
put it in a double glue-pot, with hah a pound of 
fine brown sugar, and boil it pretty thick; then pour 
it into moulds; when cold, cut and dry them in 
small pieces. This glue is very useful to draughts- 
men, architects, &c. as it immediately dilutes in 
warm water, and fastens the paper without the 
process of damping. 

To make give tliat -will resist moisture.. 

Dissolve gum sandarac and mastic, of each two 
ounces, in a pint of spirit of wine, adding about an 
aunce of clear turpentine. Then take equal parts 
af isinglass and parchment glue, made according 
to the directions in the preceding article, and hav- 
ing beaten the isinglass into small bits, and reduced 
the glue to the ?ame state, pour the solution of the 
gums upon them, and melt the whole in a vessel 
well covered, avoiding so great a heat as that of 
boiling water. When melted, strain the glue 
through a coarse linen cloth, and then put it again 
over the fire, adding about an ounce of powdered 
glass. 

This preparation may be best managed by hang- 
ing the vessel in boiling water, which will prevent 
the matter burning to the vessel, or the spirit of 
wine from taking fire, and indeed it is better to 
use* the same method for all the evaporations of 
nicer glues and sizes; hut, in that case, less water 
than the proportion directed, should be added to 
the materials. 

Another method. 

A very strong glue, that will resist water, may 
be also made by adding half a pound of common 
glue, or isinglass glue, to two quarts of skimmed 
milk, and then evaporating the mixture to the due 
consistence of the glue. 

To make parchment ghie. 

Take one pound of parchment, and boil it in six 
quarts of water, till the quantity be reduced to one 
quart; strain off the fluid from the dregs, and then 
boil it again till it be of the consistence of glue. 

The same may be done with glovers' cuttings of 
leatlier, which make a colourless glue, if not burnt 
in the evaporation of the water 

O! V 



A very strong compound glue. 

Take common glue in very small or thin bits, and 
isinglass glue: infuse them in as much spirit of 
wine as will cover them, for at least twenty-four 
hours. Then melt the whole together, and, while 
they are over the fire, add as much powdered chalk 
as will render them an opaque white. 

The infusion in the spirit of wine has been di- 
rected in the recipes given for glue; but the remark 
on the use of it in one of the preceding articles 
will hold good also in this, and the mixture may be 
made with water only. 

To make compound glue. 

Take very fine flour, mix it with white of eggs, 
isinglass, and a little yeast; mingle the materials 
beat them well together; spread them, the batter be- 
ing made thin with gum-water, on even tin plates, 
and drv them in a stove, then cut them out for use. 
To colour them, tinge the paste with Brazil, or 
vermilion for red: indigo or verditer, &c. for blue; 
safii'on, turmeric, or gambooje, &c. for yellow. 
To make isinglass glue. 

This is made by dissolving beaten isinglass in 
water by boiling, and having strained it through a 
coarse linen cloth, evaporating it again to such a 
consistence, that, heing cold, the glue will be per- 
fectly hard and dry. 

A great improvement is made in this glue by 
adding spirit of wine or brandy after it is strained, 
and then renewing the evaporation till it gains the 
due consistence. 

To make isinglass size. 

This may also be prepared in the manner above 
directed for the glue, by increasing the proportion 
of the water for dissolving it, and the same holds 
good of parchment size. A better sort of the com- 
mon size may be likewise made by treating cut- 
tings of glovers' leather in the same manner. 
To make fiour paste. 

Paste is formed principally of wheaten flour 
boiled in water till it be of a glutinous or viscid 
consistence. It may be prepared with those ingre- 
dients simply for common purposes; but when it 
is used by bookbinders, or for paper hangings to 
rooms, it is usual to mix a fourth, fifth, or sixth of 
the weight of the flour of powdered resin; ant! 
where it is wanted still more tenacious, gum ara- 
ble, or any kind of size may be added. 
I'o make Chinese paste. 

Mix together bullock's blood and quick lime, ir 
the proportion of one pound of the latter to ten 
pounds of the former. It becomes a stiff jelly, in 
which state it is sold to the consumers, who beat 
it down with an addition of water, into a state suf- 
ficiently fluid for use. 

To -weld tortoise shell. 

Provide a pair of pincers, the tongs of which 
wijI reach four inches beyond the rivet. Now file 
the tortoise shell clean to a lap joint, carefully ob- 
serving that there be no grease about it. Wet the 
joint with water; apply tlie pincers hot, following 
them with water, and the shell will be found to be 
joined, as if it were originally the same piece. 
To make cement for metals. 

Take of gum mastic, 10 grains, rectified spirit 
of wine, 2 drachms. Add 2 ounces of strong isin- 
glass glue, made with brandy, and 10 grains of the 
true gum ammoniac. Dissolve all together, and 
keep it stopped in a phial. When intended to be 
used, set it in warm water. 

JVIahogany coloured cement. 

Melt together two ounces of bees' wax and half 
an ounce of Indian red, an(\ a small quantity of 
yellow ochre, to bring it to the proper colour. 
To make red sealing wax. 

Take of shell-lac, well powdc;re(l, two parts, of 
resin and ver">"|ion, powdered, each, 1 pai'i. Mix 

2 // 



,58G 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



them well together and melt them over a gentle 
fire, and when the ingredients seem thoroughly 
incorporated, work the wax into sticks. Where 
shell-lac cannot be procured, seed-lac may be sub- 
stituted for it. 

The quantity of vermilion may be diminished 
without any injury to the sealing wax, where it is 
not required to be of the highest and brightest red 
colour; and the resin should be of the whitest kind, 
as that improves the effect of the vermilion. 
Black sealing •wax. 

Proceed as directed for the red wax, only instead 
of the vermilion substitute the best ivory black. 
Green sealing -wax. 

Proceed as in the above; only, instead of ver- 
milion, use verdigris j»owdered; or, where the 
colour is required to be bright, distilled or crystals 
of verdigris. 

Blue sealing wax. 

As the above; only changing the vermilion for 
smalt well powdered; or, for h ligtt blue, verditer 
may be used; as may also, with more advantage, 
a mixture of both. 

Yellow sealing -wax. 

As the above; only substituting mastlcot; or, 
where a bright colour is desired, turpeth mineral, 
instead of the vermilion. 

Purple sealing -wax. 

As the red; only changing half the quantity of 
vermilion for an equal or greater proportion of 
smalt, according as the purple is desired to be 
bluer or redder. 

Uncoloured soft sealing wax. 

Take of bees' wax, 1 lb. turpentine, 3 oz. and 
olive oil, 1 oz. 

Place them in a proper vessel over the tire, and 
let them boil for some tiir.e,and the wax will be then 
fit to be formed into rolls or cakes for use. 
Red, black, green, blue, yelloxv and purple, soft 
sealing wax. 

Add to the preceding composition, while boiling, 
an ounce or more of any ingredients directed above 
for colouring the hard sealing wax; and sUr the 
matter well about, till the colour be thoroughly 
mixed with the wax- 

The proportion of the colouring ingredients may 
be increased, if the colour produced by that here 
given be not found strong enough. 

To cure smoky chimneys. 

The common causes of smoky chimneys are 
either that the wind is too much let in above at the 
mouth of the shaft, or else that the smoke is stifled 
below; they may also proceed from there being too 
little room in the vent, particularly where several 
open into the same funnel. The situation of the 
house may likewise alTect them, especially if back- 
ed by higher ground or higher buildings. 

The best method of cure is to carry trom the air 
a pipe under the floor and opening under the fire; 
or when higher objects are the cause, to fix a move- 
able cowl at the top of the chimney. 

In regard to smoky chimneys, a few facts and 
cautions may be usetul; and a very simple remedv 
may often render the calling in of masons and 
bricklayers unnecessary. 

Observe that a northern aspect often produces a 
smoky chimney. 

A single chimney is apter to smoke, than when 
It forms part of a stack. 

Straight funnels seldom draw well. 

Large fire-places are apt to smoke, particularly 
when the aperture of the funnel does not corres- 
])ond in size; for this a temporary remedy may be 
found in opening a door or window — a perma.ient 
cure by diminishing tne lower apertur°. 

When a smoky chimney is so incorrigible as to 
reouire a constant admission of f.ish air into the i 



room, the best mode is to introduce a pipe, one ot 
whose apertures shall be in the open air, and th« 
other under the grate; or openings may be madt 
near the top of the apartment, if lofty, withou. 
any inconvenience even to persons sitting close bj 
the fire. 

This species of artificial ventilation will always 
be found necessary for comfort where gas is used 
internally, whether a fire is lighted or not. 

Where a chimney only smokes when a fire is 
first liglited, this may be guarded against by allow- 
ing the fire to kindle gradually; or more promptly 
by laying any inflammable substance, such as shav- 
ings, on the top of the grate; the rapid combus- 
tion of which will warm the air in the chimney, 
and give it a tendency upwards, before any smoke 
is produced from the fire itself. If old stove-grates 
are apt to smoke, they may be improved by setting 
the stove further bad:. If that fails, contract the 
lower orifice. 

In cottages, the shortness of the funnel or chim- 
ney may produce smoke; in which case the lower 
orifice must be contracted as small as possible by 
means of an upright register. 

If a kitchen chimney overpowers that of the par- 
lour, as is often the case in small houses, apply to 
each chimney a free admission of air, until the evil 
ceases. 

When a chimney is filled with smoke, not of its 
own formation, but from the funnel next to it, an 
easy remedy offers in covering each funnel with a 
conical top, or earthen crock, not cylindrical, but 
a frustrum of a cone; by means of which the two 
openings are separated a few inches, and the cold 
air, or the guSts of wind no longer force the £;moke 
down with them. 

If these remedies fail, it will be generally found 
that the chimney only smokes when the wind is ii. 
a particular quarter, connected with the position 
of some higher building, or a hill, or grove of 
trees. In such cases the common turn-cap, as 
made by tinmen, and ironmongers, will generally 
be found fully adequate to the end proposed. A 
case has occurred of curing a smoky chimney ex- 
posed to the N. W. wind, and commandad by a 
lofty building on the S. E. by the following con- 
trivance. 

A painted tin cap of a conical form was sus- 
pended by a ring and swivel, so as to swing over 
the mouth of the chimney-pot by means of an 
arched strap or bar of iron nailed on each side of 
the chimney When a gust of wind laid this cap 
(which from its resemblance in form and use to an 
umbrella, is called a paravent or wind guard,) 
close to the pot on one side, it opened a wider 
passage for the escape of the smoke on the oppo- 
site side, whichever way the wind came; while 
rain, hail, &c. were eft'ectually prevented from de- 
scending the flue. 

To clean chimneys. 

The top of each chimney sliould be furnished 
with a pot somewhat in the shape of a bell, under- 
neath the centre of which should be fixed a pulley, 
w'th a chain of sufficient length for both ends to 
be fastened, when not in use, to nails or pins in the 
chimney, out of sight, but within reach from 
below. One or both of these ends should be 
adapted to the reception of a brush of an appro- 
priate construction; and thus chimneys may be 
swept as often as desired, by servants, with very 
little additional trouble. 

To extinguish a chimney on fire. 

Shut the doors, and windows, throw water on 
the fire in the grate, and then stop up the bottom 
of the chimney. 

Another method. 

Tlie mephitic vapour produced by throwing > 



MISCELLANEOUS. 



387 



hiindful of flour cf suiphur on the burning coals, 
where a chimney is on fire, will immediately ex- 
tinguish the flames. 

To cure dry rot in timber. 

Saturate the wood in a weak solution of cop- 
peras, for joists, beams, rafters, and floorings; or 
soak the wood in lime-water, suffering it to dry, 
and then apply water, in which there is a weak so- 
lution of vitriolic acid; or wash it with a strong 
solution of potash, then with pyroligneous acid, 
in which the oxyde of lead or iron has been dis- 
solved; and finally, with alum water. 

A current of air under a floor will always pre- 
vent the dry rot, and stop it when it has commenced. 

In boarding kitchens and other rooms on the 
basement story, the planks should be steeped in a 
strong soLalion of vitriol or alum, and when they 
are dried, the side next to the earth should receive 
a coat of tar, or common paint. 

To preserve polished irons from rust. 

Polished iron-work may be preserved from rust 
oy a mixture not very expensive, consisting of 
copal varnish intimately mixed with as much olive 
oil as will give it a degree of greasiness, adding 
thereto nearly as much spirit of turpentine as of 
varnish. The cast iron- work is best preserved by 
rubbing it with black-lead. 

But where rust has begun to make its appearance 
on grates or fire irons, apply a mixture of tripoli, 
with half its quantity of sulphur, intimately min- 
gled on a marble slab, and laid on with a piece of 
soft leather: or emery and oil may be applied with 
excellent effect; not laid on in the usual slovenly 
way, but with a spongy piece of the fig-tree fully 
saturated with the mixture. This will not only 
clean but polish, and render the use of whiting 
unnecessary. 

To preserve brass ornaments. 

Brass ornaments, when not gilt or lackered, may 
be cleaned in the same way, and a fine colour may 
be given to them by two simple processes. The 
first is to beat sal ammoniac into a fine powder, 
then to moisten it with soft water, rubbing it on 
the ornaments, which must be heated over char- 
coal, and rubbed dry with bran and whiting. The 
second is to wash the brass work with roche alum 
boiled in strong ley, in the proportion of an ounce 
to a pint; when dry it must be rubbed with fine 
tripoli. Either of these processes will give to 
brass the brilliancy of gold. 

To remove unpleasant odours. 

The unpleasant smell of new paint is best re- 
moved by time and atmospheric ventilation: but 
tubs of water placed in the apartment, will act 
more rapidly; with this inconvenience, however, 
that the gloss of the paint will be destroyed. Un- 
pleasant 'mells from water-closets, or all articles 
of furniture connected with them, may be modi- 
faed by the application of lime water, to which 
may be added the soap suds that have been used in 
washing, which neutraliae the pungently offensive 
salts: a little quick-lime put into a night chair will 
destroy all disagreeable efliuvia. 

Aromatic pastiles of the following composition 
may be burned with great success: take of cam- 
phor, flowers of benzoin, powdered charcoal, pow- 
dered cascarilla bark, powdered Turkey myrrh, 
and powdered nitre, each equal quantities; beat 
them with syrup sufficient to form a mass, and 
divide into pastiles of a conical shape. They may 
be mixed up with spirit of turpentine (the recti- 
fied oil) or any thing that is inflammable. Syrup 
does best, as it is most adhesive. 
To ventilate rooms. 

To ventilate a room, carry a tin pipe from its 
celling a yard above the top of the voom, and 



another from the top through the floor, boring some 
holes in the boards. 

To -warm a carriage, or smaU apartment. 

Convey into it a stone bottle of boiling water, 
or for the feet a single glass bottle of boiled water 
wrapped in flannel. 

To prepare a cheap hortus siccus. 

All the smaller plants should be expanded under 
water, in a plate, upon a piece of writing paper 
sunk to the bottom. In this state they will assume 
their natural form and position. The paper, with 
the plant upon it, must be withdrawn from the 
watei gently; and the plant and paper afterwards 
placed betwixt two or three sheets of blotting pa- 
per, and pressed with a book or flat board. It is 
then to be laid up in a quire of blotting paper, un- 
der pressure, for a day or two, when, if dry, it 
may ne placed permanently upon writing paper. 
To remove bugs, i^c. 

The bedsteads ought to be taken down three or 
four times a year, the screws rubbed with pure 
oil, and a good manual cleaning given to all its 
parts. This plan, which has been slightly noticed 
under the general head of cleanliness, will render 
all poisonous mixtures unnecessary, besides saving 
all the trouble, filth, and expense consequent upon 
the use of those medicaments so much recommend- 
ed by quacks, bug destroyers, &c. 
To drive away, or prevent the approach of caters 
pillars. 

Wrap up yellow or turpentine soap in paper, or 
place an open bottle containing spirits of turpen- 
tine within the wardrobe. But as the smell of the 
latter may be unpleasant, sprinkle bay leaves, or 
worm-wood, or lavender, or walnut leaves, or rue, 
or blacf pepper in grains. 

To preserve furs. 

When laying up muffs and tippets for the sum 
mer, if a tallow candle be placed on or near them 
all danger of caterpillars will be obviated. 

Water-proof composition for leather or cloth. 

The new patent water-proof composition con- 
sists of the following materials:^ — Boil six gallonsi 
of linseed oil, one pound and a half of rosin, four 
pounds and a half of red lead, litharge, or any 
other substance usually called dryers, together, 
till they acquire such a consistence as to adhere to 
the fingers in strings when cooled; then remove 
the mixture from the fire, and when sufficiently 
cooled, thin it to the consistence of sweet oil, with 
spirits of turpentine, of which it commonly takes 
six gallons. Leave it to settle for a day or two, 
pour off the liquid from the grounds, and intimate- 
ly mix with it one pound and a half of ivory or 
lamp black, and one pound and a half of Prussian 
blue, ground in linseed oil. The composition is 
then ready to be used on any kind of leather or 
cloth. Stir up the liquid and ajiply it with a brush 
till an even gloss is produced; hang up the mate- 
rial acted upon till the next day, taking care to 
leave tl.e surface as even as possible, and proceed 
in the same manner till it has the desired appear- 
ance. 

To preserve clothes. 

As clothes, when laid up for a time, acquire an 
unpleasant odour, which requires considerable ex- 
posure to the atmospheric air, it will be prevented 
by laying recently made charcoal between the folds 
of the garments; and even when the odour has 
taken place, the charcoal will absorb it. 

To remove stains from mourning dresses. 

Bold a good handful of fig leaves in twoquarts 
of water till reduced to a pint. Bombazine, crape, 
cloth, &c. need only be rubbed with a sponge dip- 
ped in the liquor, and the effect will be instantly 
produced. 



388 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BGOK 



To clean gold lace. 

Gold lace is easily cleaned and restored to its 
original brightness by rubbing it with a soft brush 
dipped in roche alum burnt, sifted to a ver/ fine 
powder. 

To clean china and glass. 

The best material for cleaning either porcelain 
or glass ware is fuller's earth, but it must be beaten 
into a fine powder and carefully cleared from all 
rough or hard particles, which might endanger the 
polish of the brilliant surface. 

To explore unventilated places. 

Light some sheets of brown paper and throw 
into the well or cavern; also fix a long pipe to a 
pair of bellows and blow for some time into the 
place. 

To avoid injury from bees. 

A wasp or bee swallowed may be killed before it 
can do harm, by taking a tea spoonful of common 
salt dissolved in water. It kills the insect, and 
cures the sting. Salt at all times is the best cure 
for external stings; sweet oil, pounded mallows, or 
onions, or powdered chalk made into a paste with 
water, are also efficacious. 

If bees swarm upon the head, smoke tobacco and 
hold an empty hive over the head, and they will 
enter it. 

To raise ta^ier in all situations. 

The finest springs may be formed by boring, 
which is performed in the simplest manner, by the 
mere use of an iron rod, forced into the earth by a 
windlass. The workmen in a few days get to a 
genuine spring of pure water, fit for every pur- 
pose. After the water is found, they merely put 
tin pipes down the aperture, and it preserves a fine 
stream which sometimes rines from four to five feet 
high. 

To keep up sash vdndoxos. 

This is performed by means of cork, in the sim- 
plest manner, and with scarcely any expense. 
Bore three or four holes in the sides of the sash, 
into which insert common bottle corks, projecting 
about the sixteenth part of an inch. These will 
press against the window frames, along the usual 
groove, and by their elasticity support the sash at 
any height which miiy be required. 

To -write for the use of the blind. 

Let an iron pen be used, the point of which is 
not split. Blind persons writing without ink, and 
pressing on a strong paper, will produce characters 
in relief, which they can immediately read, by 
passing their fingers over the projecting charac- 
ters, on the opposite side of the paper, in the con- 
trary direction. 

To freeze quicksilver. 

Crystallized muriate of lime and snow may be 
used as frigorific ingredients for this purpose. 
Four ounces of mercury in a retort immersed in a 
mixture of snow and muriate of lime, the degree 
of cold being 50 degrees, were fixed, in an experi- 
ment, in fifteen minutes. In another expei iment, 
the external temperature being 33 degrees, the 
quantity of ^& lbs. avoirdupoise, of mercury in- 
closed in a bladder, was completely fixed in the 
same mixture, in an hour and forty minutes. 
To clean boots and shoes. 

Good brushesand blacking are indiopensablyne- 
'essary. First remove all the loose dirt with a 
wooden knife, and never use a sharp steel one, as 
the leather is too often cut, and the boots and shoes 
spoiled. Then take the hard brush and brush oft' 
the remainder, and ^11 the dust; they must also be 
quite dry before blacking or they will not shine. 
Do not put on too much blacking at a time, for, if '' 
it <lries before using the shining brush, trne^ea'-ner ' 
will look brown instead cf black, it' tnere are |- 
boot-trees, never clean either boots or shoes with- •< 



out them; but take care that the trees are always 
kept clean and free from dust. Never put one 
shoe within another: and when cleaning ladies 
boots or shoes be careful to have clean hands, that 
the linings may not get soiled. Always stir the 
blacking up well before using it, put it on the 
brush with a piece of sponge tied to the end of a 
small cane, and keep it corked when done with it, 
as it gets spoiled by bein" exposed to the air. 
Always scrape off the dirt when wet from boots or 
shoes; but never place them too near the fire when 
dry, as that cracks the leather. 

There are various ways of cleaning boot tops. 
In all cases, however, the tops are done the last; 
great care therefore is necessary that the bottoms 
do not get dirtied whilst the tops are doing. To 
prevent this, take a piece of parchment -^nd cover 
the top part of the boot whilst the leg of it is 
cleaning, and afterwards the leg part whilst the top 
is cleaning. Directions for mixtures proper for 
this purpuse, as also for rendering leather water- 
proof, and for making blacking, will be found by 
referring to the index. 

To clean knives and forks. 

Procure a smooth board, free from knots, or one 
covered with leather. If the latter, melt a suffi- 
cient quantity of mutton suet, and put it hot upon 
the leather with a piece of flannel; then take two 
pieces of soft , Bath brick, and rub them one 
against the other over the leather till it is covered 
with the powder, which rub in until no grease 
comes through when a knife is passed over the 
leather, which may easily be known by the knife 
keeping its polish. 

If only a plain board, rub the Bath brick two or 
three times over it; for if too much be put on at 
once it will make the blades of the knives look 
rough and scratched. Let the board be of a proper 
height, and set so that the person may be a little 
on the stoop while cleaning the knives. Take a 
knife in each hand, holding them back to back; 
stand opposite the middle of the board; lay the 
knives flat upon it, and do not bear too hard upon 
them; by this method it will be easier to clean two 
knives at a time than one, and they will be less 
liable to be broken, for good knives will snap when 
pressed on too heavily. Many will say that they 
cannot clean two knives at once, or that they can 
get through them faster one by one; but if they 
will only try it a few times in the way recommend- 
ed, they will find it not only much more expedi- 
tious, but easier. 

Be careful in keeping a good edge on the knives. 
Carving knives in particular ought to be kept sharp, 
which may easily be done by taking one in each 
hand, back to back when cleaning, scarcely letting 
them touch the board when expanding the arms, 
but when drawing the hands together again bearing 
a little hard on the edge of the knives; this will 
give them both a good edge and a fine polish, and 
is much better than sharpening them with a steel. 

The best way to clean steel forks is to fill a small 
oyster barrel with fine gravel, brick-dust, or sand, 
mixed with a little hay or moss: make it moder- 
ately damp, press it well down, and let it always 
be kept damp. By running the prongs of the 
steel forks a few times into this, all the stains on 
them will be removed. Then have a small slick, 
shaped like a knife, with leather round it to polish 
between the prongs, &e. having first carefully 
brushed oW the dust trom tliem as soon as they are 
taken out of the tub. A knife board is often spoil- 
ed by cleaning forks upon it, and likewise tlie 
backs of the knives: to prevent this have a piece of 
■aid ha. or leainer put on the board where the 
torlis iind oacks cf the knives are cleaned. 

A) wiys turn the back of the knives towards th« 



MISCELLANEOUS. 



389 



oalm ot the hand in wiping them, this will pre- 
vent all danger from cutting. In wiping the forks 
put the corner of the cloth between the prongs, to 
remove any dirt or dust that may not have been 
thoroughly brushed out; and if there should be sil- 
ver ferules on the knives and forks, or silver han- 
dles, they must be rubbed with a piece of leather 
and plate p^jwder, keeping the blades covered 
while the handles are cleaning. 

Wipe the knives and forks as soon as possible 
after being used, as the longer they are left with 
grease and stains on them the harder they will be 
to clean; particularly if they have been used for 
acids, salads, tarts, &c. have then a jug of hot wa- 
ter ready to put them into as soon as done with, 
and wipe them as before directed. 

In order to keep knives and forks in good con- 
dition when they are not in use, rub the steel part 
with a flannel dipped in oil; wipe the oil off after 
a few hours, as there is often water in it; or dust 
the blades and prongs with quick lime, finely pow- 
dered, and kept in a muslin bag. 

To clean plate and plated articles. 
The plate ought to be free from grease; wash it, 
therefore, in boiling water, and if it have rough 
edges, brush it well before beginning to clean it. 
The leathers should be soft and thick; the sponge 
well soaked in water before using it. Use the 
plate powder, or whiting, either wet or dry; if wet 
do not put it on too much plate at once; rub it, if 
plain, with the bare hand; small articles, such as 
spoons and forks, can be done between the finger 
and thumb. The longer plate is rubbed the bet- 
ter it will look; when done enough brush the whi- 
ting or powder from out of the crevices and crests 
of the plate, and from between the prongs of the 
forks very carefully. Be careful also not to rub 
the salt and tea-spoons and other small articles too 
hard, lest they should break or bend. Keep a clean 
leather to finish rubbing the plate with, after it is 
brushed, and let it be dusted with a linen cloth be- 
fore it is put upon the table. 

Plated articles require even more care than sil- 
ver ones; they should be cleaned with soft brushes, 
not too often, and never with any thing but plate 
powder, not even whiting by itself; do not wet 
them more than can be helped or they will tarnish; 
nor brush them more than is necessary, or the sil- 
ver will come ofF; the best thing for them is spirit 
of wine or oil; and take care that no plated arti- 
cles remain long dirty or damp, for if they do they 
will rust in case they are plated on steel, and can- 
ker if plated on copper. 

Wash the brushes after the plate is cleaned with 
warm water and soap, do them quickly, and then 
set them to dry, with the wooden side uppermost, 
as that takes the most drying, and the bristles are 
apt to come out if the wood remain long wet. 
To trim and clean lamps. 
If they only want cleaning, pour in boiling wa- 
ter, with a little pearl-ash, and shake it well: if 
the gummy part will not come away, scrape it care- 
fully off, with a wooden or steel knife; then take 
the lamp to pieces and clean every part thorough- 
ly. There are generally two or three small holes 
in the common brass lamps, to admit the air; be 
particular in keeping them open with a pin, or a 
piece of wire, as otherwise the lamp will smoke, 
and not give a good light. 

The patent lamps are more difficult to clean. 
Take them entirely to pieces and use nothing but 
boiling water and pearl-ash. When tlie pan which 
holds the oil is thoroughly washed, wipe it quite 
dry with an old cloth, and put it upside down near 
the fire to take off the damps; let every other part 
be done the same. Flannel and soap are best to 
use for the outside of the lamp. Be careful in 



cleaning the chimneys of the patent lamps; and 
also that part which receives the droppings of oil; 
for if they are not kept clean and free for the air to 
go through, the lamp will never burn well. 

Keep the cottons always clean and dry, as well 
as the stick to put tliem on. Choose them of a fair 
tlnckr.ess; not loose, but tight woven, firm and cut 
even: do not get too much oil at once, as it loses 
its goodness by keeping. Cut the cottons even, 
and fill the lamps with oil when trimming them; 
but not so as to run over. When fresh cottons are 
put in let the oil down, so that they may get well 
soaked, after which put up the part that keeps the 
oil up. Have a tin pot with a long spout to put 
the oil in with, to prevent spilling. Clean the 
glass with a damp sponge dippeo in whiting; rub 
it well, but not hard, with a cloth or soft leather, 
and finish it with a clean linen cloth, or silk hand- 
kerchief. If the brass part of the glass lamp wants 
cleaning, use soap and flannel, and let them all be 
dusted eveiy day, before lighting them. If the 
patent lamps be lighted up every evening, they 
should be emptied ouce a week; do not put the oil 
that comes from them into the jar with the best oil, 
but keep it separate to burn in the common lamps. 
In cold weather warm the oil, by putting the 
lamps near the hall fire, just before lighting them: 
but be careful in carrying them about the house, 
for fear of spilling the oil. When lighting them 
do not raise the cotton up too high or too quickly, 
so as to smoke or crack the glasses. In frosty 
weather in particidar, the glasses are veiy easily 
broken by a sudden transition from cold to heat. 
Raise the cottons therefore, gradually, and let the 
glass get warm by degrees. Use wax-tapers, or 
matches without brimstone for lighting them; but 
not paper. If any doubt arises as to the lamps 
burning well, light them a little before they are 
wanted. 

To clean candlesticks and snuffers. 
If silver or plated, care must be taken that they 
are not scratched in getting off the wax or grease: 
therefore never use a knife for that purpose, not 
hold them before the fire to melt the wax or grease, 
as in general the hollow part of the candlesticks, 
towards the bottom, is filled with a composition 
that will melt if made too hot. Pour boiling wa- 
ter over them; this will take all the grease off 
without injury if wiped directly with an old cloth, 
and save the brushes from being greased: let them 
in all other respects be cleaned like the re st of the 
plate. 

If japanned bed-room candlesticks, never hold 
them near the fire, or scrape them with a knife; 
the best way is to pour water upon them just hot 
enough to melt the grease; then wipe them with a 
cloth, and if they look smeary, sprinkle a little 
whiting, or flour upon them, and rub it clean off. 

Be very particular in cleaning the patent snuf- 
fers, as they go with a spring, and are easily bro- 
ken. The part which shuts up the snuffing has in 
general a small hole in it, where a pin can be put, 
to keep it open while cleaning it; be sure to have 
them well cleaned, that the snufi' may not drop 
about when using them. The extinguishers like- 
wise must be well cleaned in the inside, and be put 
ready with the snuffers, that the candlesticKS may 
not be taken up without them. 

If the sockets of the candlesticks be too large 
for the candles, put a piece of paper round the end, 
but do not let it be seen above the nozzle of the 
candlestick. Be particular in putting them in 
straight, and having clean hands, that they may not 
be dirtied. Always light the candles to bui-n off 
the cotton, before setting them up; but leave thp 
ends long enough to o- • ghted with ease, when 
wanted. 

2 H2 



590 



tJNIVERSAI. RECEIPT JiOOIv. 



To clean furniture. 

Keep the paste or oil in a proper can or jar, that 
there may be no danger of upsetting when using 
jt. Have two pieces of woollen cloth, one for 
rubbing it on, the other for rubbing it dry and 
polishing; also an old linen cloth to finish with, 
and a piece of smooth soft cork to rub out the 
stains: use a brush if the paste be hard. Always 
dust the table well before the oil or paste is put on; 
and if it should be stained, rub it with a damp 
sponge, and then with a dry cloth. If the staiu 
does not disappear, rub it well with a cork or a 
brush the way the wood grows; for if rubbed cross- 
grained, it will be sure to scratch it. Be careful 
to keep the cork and brush free from dust and 
dirt. When the dust is cleaned off and the stains 
have been got out, put on the oil or paste, but not 
too much at a time; rub it well into the wood; if 
oil, be as quick as possible in rubbing it over the 
table, and then polish it with another woollen cloth. 
If wax, put a little bit on the woollen cloth, with 
the finger, or a small stick; rub it well with this 
till the table has a high poush, then have another 
cloth to finish it with. Be very careful to have 
the edges of the table well cleaned, and the oil 
and wax well rubbed off. 

The furniture which is not in constant use will 
not require to be oiled above once a week: it ought, 
however, to be dusted every day and well rubbed. 
Tables which are used daily must be well rubbed 
eveiy morning, and great care should be taken to 
remove all spots from them particularly ink: this 
eaii very easily be done, if not left to dry long, by 
putting on a little salt of lemons with the finger. 

When cleaning tables or chairs, be careful to re- 
move them into the middle of the room, or at a 
distance from the wall. If the sideboard, or side- 
table is fixed to the wall, be still more careful in 
cleaning it, and roll up the woollen cloth tight in 
the hand, and into a small compass. 

To clean looking-glasses, mirrors, SJc. 

If they should be Imng so high that they canuot 
be conveniently reached, have a pair of steps to 
stand upon; but mind that they stand steady. Then 
take a piece of soft sponge, well washed and clean- 
ed from every thing gritty, just dip it into water 
and squeeze it out again, and tiien dip it into some 
spirit of wine. Rub it over the glass; dust it over 
with some powder blue, or whiting sifted through 
muslin; rub it lightly and quickly off again, with 
a cloti.: then lake a clean cloth, and rub it well 
again, and finish by rubbing it with a silk handker- 
chief. 

If the glass be very large, clean one half at a 
time, i»s otherwise the spirit of wine will dry be- 
fore it can be rubbed off. If the frames are not 
varnished, the greatest care is necessary to keep 
them quite dry, so as not to touch them with the 
sponge, as this will discolour or take off the gilding. 

To clean the frames, take a little raw cotton in 
the state of wool, and rub the frames with it; this 
will take oil' all the dust and dirt without injuring 
the gilding. If the frames are well varnished, rub 
llipm with spirit of wine, which will take out all 
spots, and give them a fine polish. Varnished 
doors may be done in the same manner. Never 
use any cloth to frames, or drawings, or unvarnish- 
ed oil paintings, when cleaning and dusting" 
them. 

To brush clothes. 

Have a wooden horse to put the clothes on, and 
a small cane to beat the dust out of them; also a 
board or table long enough for them to be put their 
whole length when brushing them. Have two 
brushes, one a hard bristle, the other soft; use the 
hardest for tlie great coats, and for the others when 
spotted with dirt. Fine cloth coats should never 



be brushed with too hard a brush, as this will take 
off the nap, and make them look bare in a little 
time. Be careful in the choice of the cane; do 
not have it too lai-ge, and be particular not to hit 
too hard; be careful also not to hit the buttons, for 
it will scratch if not break them; therefore a small 
hand-whip is the best to beat with. 

If a coat be wet and spotted with dirt, let it be 
quite dry before brushing it; then rub out the spots 
with the hands, taking care not to rumple it in so 
doing. If it want beating, do it as before directed, 
then put the coat at its full length on a board; let 
the collar be towards the left hand, and the brush 
in ».he right: brush the back of the collar first, be- 
tween the two shoulders next, and then the sleeves, 
&c. observing to brush the cloth the same way that 
the nap goes, which is towards the skirt of the coat. 
When both sides are properly done, fold them to- 
gether; then brush the inside, and last of all the 
collar. 

To take out grease from clothes. 

Take off the grease with the nail, or if that can- 
not be done, have a hot iron with some thick brown 
paper; lay the paper on the part where the grease 
is, then put the iron upon the spot; if the grease 
comes through the paper, put on another piece, till 
it does not soil the paper. If not all out, wrap a 
little bit of cloth or flannel round the finger, dip it 
into spirit of wine, and rub the grease spot; this 
will take it entirely out. Be careful not to have 
the iron too hot; try it first on a piece of white pa- 
per; if it turn the paper brown, or scorch it in the 
least, it is too hot. If paint should get on the 
coats, always nave spirit of wine or turpentine 
ready, this with a piece of flannel or cloth will easi- 
ly take it off, if not left to get quite dry. 
To pack glass or china. 

Procure some soft straw or hay to pack them inj 
and if they are to be sent a long way, and are hea- 
\y, the hay or straw should be a little damp, which 
will prevent them slipping about. Let the largest 
and heaviest things be always put undermost in the 
box or hamper. Let there be plenty of straw, and 
pack the articles tight; but never attempt to pack 
up glass or china which is of much consequence, 
till it has been seen done by some one used to the 
job. The expense will be but trifling to have a 
person to do it who understands it, and the loss 
may be great if articles of such value are packed 
up in an improper manner. 

To clean -wine decanters. 

Cut some brown paper into very small bits, so 
as to go with ease into the decanters; then cut a 
few pieces of soap very small, and put some water, 
milk warm, into Xhe. decan'.ers, upon the soap and 
paper; put in also a little pearl-ash; by well work- 
ing this about in the decanters, it will take off the 
crust of the wine and give the glass a fine polish. 
Where the decanters have been scratched, and the 
wine left to stand in them a long time, have a small 
cane with a bit of sponge tied tight at one end; by 
putting this into the decanter, any crust of the 
wine may be removed. When the decanters have 
been properly washed, let them be thoroughly 
dried, and turned down in a proper rack. 

If the decanters have wine in them, when put 
by, have some good corks always at hand to put in 
instead of stoppers; this will keep the wine much 
better. 

To decant tvine. 

Be careful not to shake or disturb the cruet when 
moving it about or drawing the cork, particularly 
port wine. Never decant wine without a wine 
strainer, with some fine cambric in it to prevent 
the crust and bits of cork going into the decanter. 
In decanting port wine do not drain it too near; 
there are generally two-thirds of a wine glass of 



MISCELLANKOUS. 



391 



thick dregs in esch bottle, which ought not to be 
put in: but in white wine there is not much set- 
tling; pour it out however slowly, and raise the 
bottle up gradually; the wine should never be de- 
canted in a hurry, therefore always do it before the 
family sit down to dinner. Do not jostle the de- 
canters against each other when moving them about, 
as they easily break when full. 

To clean tea trays. 
Do not pour boiling water over them, particu- 
larly on japanned ones, as it will make the varnish j 
crack and peel off; but have a sponge wetted with 
warm water and a little soap if the tray be very 
dirty; then rub it with a cloth; if it looks smeary, 
dust on a lilile flour, then rub it with a dry cloth. 
If the paper tray gets marked, take a piece of 
woollen cloth, with a little sweet oil, and rub it 
over the marks, if any thing will take them out 
this will. Let the urn be emptied and the top 
wiped dry, particularly the outside, for if any wet 
be suftered to dry on it will leave a mark. 
I'o -wash and dean gentlemen's gloves. 
'\\'^ash them in soap and water till the dirt is got 
out, then stretch them on wooden hands, or pull 
them out in their proper shape. Never wring 
them, as that puts them out of form, and makes 
them shrink; put them one upon another and press 
the water out. Then rub the following mixture 
over the outside of the gloves. If wanted quite 
yellow, take yellow ochre; if quite white, pipe 
clay; if between the two, mix a little of each to- 
gether. By proper mixture of these any shade 
may be produced. Mix the colour with Leer or 
vinegar. 

Let them dry gradually, not too near the fire nor 
in too hot a sun; when they are about half dried 
rub them well, and stretch them out to keep them 
from shrinking, and to soften them. When they 
are well rubbed and dried, take a small cane and 
beat them, then brush them; when this is done, 
iron them rather warm, with a piece of paper over 
them, but do not let the iron be too hot. 
To ivarm beds. 
Take all the black or blazing coals out of the 
pan, and scatter a little salt over the remainder: 
this will prevent the smell of sulphur, so disagree- 
able to delicate persons. 

To bring horses out of a stable on fire. 
Throw the harness or saddles to which they may 
have been accustomed, over the backs of the horses 
in this predicament, and they will come out of the 
stable as tractably as usual. 

To manage water pipes in -winter. ' 
When the frost begins to set in, cover the water 
pipes with hay or straw bands, twisted tight round 
them. Let the cisterns and water-butts be washed 
out occasionally; this will keep the water pure and 
fresh. 

In pumping up water into the cistern for the 
water-closet, be v ry particular, in winter time, as 
in general the pipes go up the outside of the house. 
Let all the water be let out of the pipe when done 
pumping; but if this is forgotten, and it should be 
frozen, take a small gimblet and bore a hole in the 
pipe, a little distance from the place where it is 
let off, which will prevent its bursting. Put a peg 
into the hole when the water is let off. Pump the 
water up into the cistern for the closet every morn- 
mg, and once a week take a pail of water, and cast 
It into the basin, having first opened the trap at 
the bottom; this will clear the soil out of the pipe. 
To extract lamp-oil out of stone or marble hails, 
&c. 
Mix well together a pint of strong soap lees, 
some fuller's earth well dried and a little pipe clay, 
pounded fine; and lay it on the part which is oiled; 



then put a hot iron upon it till dry. If all the oil 
should not come out the first time, do it again; 
and in putting it on, let it be well rubbed into the 
stone. By doing it two or three times in this way 
it will come out. 

To get oil out of boards. 
Mix together fuller's earth and soap lees, and 
rub it into the boards. Let it dry and then scour 
it off with some strong soft soap and sand, or use 
lees to scour it with. It should be put on hot, 
which may easily be done, by heating the lees. 
To preserve hats. 
Hats require great care or they will soon look 
shabby. Brush them with a soft camel-hair brush, 
this will keep the fur smooth. Have a stick for 
each hat to keep it in its proper shape, especially 
if the hat has got wet; put the stick in as soon as 
the hat is taken off, and when dry put it into a hat 
box, particularly if not in constant use, as the air 
and dust soon turn hats brown. If the hat is very 
wet, handle it as lightly as possible; wipe it dry 
with a cloth, or silk handkerchief; then brush it 
with the soft brush. If the fur sticks so close when 
almost dry, that it cannot be got loose with the 
soft brushes, then use the hard ones; but if the fur 
still sticks, damp it a little with a sponge dipped 
in beer or vinegar; then brush it with a hard brush 
till dry. 

To make gas from coal-tar. 
It has been found by experiment, that the coal- 
tar liquor, which is sometimes considered as waste 
by those who make gas, if mixed with dry saw- 
dust, exhausted logwood, or fustic, to the consis- 
tence of paste, and allowed to remain till the water 
has drained off; two cwt. of the mass, being put 
into the retort instead of coal, will produce more 
g^s, and be less offensive. 

To -walk on water. 
An exhibition called walking on water, has been 
exhibited by Mr Kent at Glasgow. The apparatus 
is represented in an engraving; where a. b. c. are 
three hollow tin cases, of the form of an oblong 
hemispheroid, connected together by three iron 
bars, at the meeting of which is a seat for the ex- 
hibitor. These cases, filled with air, are of such 
magnitude that they can easily support his weight, 
and as a. b. and a. c. are about ten feet and b. c. 
about eight feet, he floats very steadily upon the 
water. l"he feet of the exnibitor rest on stirrups, 
and he attaches to his shoes, by leather belts, two 
paddles, d. e. which turn on a joint when he brings 
his foot forward to take the stroke, and keep a 
vertical position when he draws it back against the 
resisting water; by the alternate action of his feet 
he is thus enabled to advance at the rate of five 
miles an hour. 

To obtain the fragrant essences from the fresh rinds 
of citrons, oranges, &c. 
Procure as many fresh citrons as will svpply tne 
required stock of essence; after cleaning off any 
speck in the outer rinds of the fruit, break off a 
large piece of loaf sug^r and rub the citron on it 
till the yellow rind is completely absorbed. Those 
parts of the sugar which are impregnated with the 
essence are from time to time to be cut away with 
a knife, and put in an earthen dish. The whole 
being thus taken off, the sugared essence is to 
be closely pressed, and put by in pots; where it is to 
be squeezed down hard; have a bladder over the 
paper by which it is covered, and tied tightly up. 
It is at ai^ tin»e fit for use, and will keep for many 
years. [Exactly in the same manner may be ob- 
tained and preserved, at the proper seasons, from 
the fresh fruits, the essences of the rinds of Se- 
ville oranges, lemons, bergamots, &c.] This 
mode of extractii^g and preserving these essences 



392 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



IS superior to the common practices of peeling, 
raspinsj, or grating off !he rind, and afterwards 
mixing it up with powdered sugar, &e. 
To ascertain the proportion of alcohol in -wines, 
beer, cider, and other spiiituous liquors. 

To 100 parts in volume of the liquid to be tried, 
add 12 parts of the solution of sub-acetate of lead 
(prepared as directed below:) a precipitation en- 
sues, which by a slight agitation is rendered gene- 
ral. On filtering, a colourless liquid containing 
the alcohol is procured. By mixing with this dry 
and warm carbonate of potass, (calcined pearl- 
ash) as long as it is dissolved, the water is sepa- 
rated from the alcohol. The latter is seen floating 
above in a well marked stratum; the quantity of 
'*hich can be estimated at once, in a measure tube. 

To prepare the solution of sub-acetate of lead. 

Boil 15 parts of pulverized (and calcined) li- 
tharge, with 10 of acetate of lead, in 200 of water, 
for 20 minutes, and concentrate the liquid by slow 
evaporation to one half; it must be kept in well- 
corked phials, quite full. ^ 
To determine -lohether -wheat flour, or bread be 
adulterated -with clialk. 

Mix with the flour to be tried, a little sulphuric 
acid; if chalk or whiting be present, an efferves- 
eence (arising from the discharge of the carbonic 
acid ot the chalk) will take place; but if the flour 
be pure, no effervescence is produced. 
Another method. 

Pour boiling water on some slices of bread, and 
then pour into the water a little sulphuric acid; if 
there be any chalk in the bread, an efiervescence 
will ensue as before; but if none be in it, no effer- 
vescence will take place, 

Cheimcal tests— for gold. 

To a diluted colourless solution of nitro-muri- 
jite of gold add a few drops of a solution of any salt 
of tin — or stir the solution of gold with a slip of 
raetallic tin; in either case, the production of a 
beautiful purple or port wine colour will be the 
immediate I'esult. If the mixture is allowed to 
settle, it becomes colourless, a purple powder 
(which is an oxide of gold combined with a little 
tin) being precipitated. This powder is employed 
in the painting of china, and is called the purple 
precipitate of Cassius, 

For silver. 

Let fall a drop of a solution of nitrate of silver 
into a glassful of water, and add to it a grain of 
common salt. Mutual decomposition of the salts 
will take place, and muriate of silver (in tlie form 
of a white powder) will be precipitated. 
For copper. 

Add a few drops of a solution of nitrate of cop- 
per to a test glass of water — the mixture will be 
colourless; pour into it a little liquid ammonia — 
the mixture will then assume a fine deep blue 
colour. 

To preserve pictures from decay. 

To strengthen a decayed canvas and to preserve 
sound canvas froni decaying, let the back of every 
picture receive two or three good thick coats of 
white lead, or whatever other cheap pigment is 
most reconimendable for tenacity and strength. In 
pictures which may henceforth be produced every 
pai-.iter should take care to have his canvas well 
backed with a strong coating of paint, previously 
to its being nailed to the frame, to secure it in 
every pari from damp, mould, and mildew. In 
consequence of ihis precaution, his piece may be 
preserved one or two centuries longer than any 
other contemporary pictures whose backs are na- 
ked canvas. 

To prepare soda -water. 

Soda water isjirepared (from powders) precisely 
iu the same" msihrier as ginger beer, except that, 



instead of the two powders there mentioned, tho 
two following are used: for one glass 30 grains of 
carbonate of scda, for the other 25 grains of tarta« 
ric (or citric) acid. 

To prepare ginger beer powders. 

Take 2drachmsoffine loaf sugar, 8 grains of gin- 
ger, and 26 grains of carbonate of potass, all in fine 
powder; mix them intimately in aWedgwood's ware 
mortar. Take also 27 grains of citric or tartaric 
acid, (the first is the pleasantest but the last the 
cheapest). The acid is to be kept separate from 
the mixture. The beer is prepared from the pow- 
ders thus: lake two tumbler glasses, each half filled 
with water, stir up the compound powder in one 
of them, and the acid powder in the other, then 
mix the two liquors; an effervescence takes place, 
the beer is prepared and may be drank off. 

The effervescence is occasioned by the discharge 
of the carbonic acid of the carbonate of potass. If 
the beer is allowed to stand for a few minutes it 
becomes flat; this is owing to its having lost all its 
carbonic acid. The cost of these powders is eight- 
pence a dozen sets. 

To determine -whether -water be hard or soft. 

To ascertain whether or not water be fit for do- 
mestic purposes, to a glassful of the water add a ' 
few drops of the solution of soap in alcohol. If the 
water be pure it will continue limpid, if impure, 
white flakes will be formed. 

To detect copper in pickles or green tea. 

Put a few leaves of the tea, or some of the 
pickle, cut small, into a phial with 2 or 3 drachms 
of lir aid ammonia, diluted with cne half the quan- 
tity of water. Shake the phial, when, if the most 
minute portion of copper be present, the liquid 
will assume a fine blue colour. 

To make patent cement. 

A mixture of lime, clay, and oxide of iron, se- 
parately calcined and reduced to fine powder, are 
to be intimately mixed. It must be kept in close 
vessels and mixed with the requisite quantity of 
water when used. This cement is useful for coat- 
ing the joinings of the wood of which the pneuma- 
tic trough is composed, in order to render it water 
tight; and for other purposes of a like nature. 
7'o preserve pjhosphorus. 

Keep it in places wuere neither light nor heat 
has access. It is obtained from druggists in rolls 
about the thickness of a quill; these are put into a 
phial filled with cold water, which has been boiled 
to expel air from it, and the phial is inclosed in an 
opaque case. 

To make gunpo-wder. 

Pulverize separately 5 drachms of nitrate of 
potass, 1 of sulphur, and 1 of newly burnt charcoal. 
Mix them together with a little water in a mortar, 
so as to make the compound into a dough, which 
must be rolled out into round pieces the thickness 
of a pin, between two boards. Lay a f'-.w of these 
pieces together and cut their with a knife into 
small grains, which are to be placed on a sheet ot 
paper in a warm place to dry. During granulation 
the dcf'gh must be prevented sticking to the boai'd 
by rubbing on it a little of the dry compound pow- 
der. The explosion takes place in consequence 
of the generation of a large quantity of various 
gases. 

To produce instantaneous light. 

Put a little phosphorus, dried on blotting paper, 
into a small phial, heat the phial by placing it in a 
ladle of hot sand, and turn it round so that the 
melted phosphorus may adhere to its sides. Cork 
the phial closely and it is prepared. 
Another. 

Mix one part of flower of sulphur with eiglit 

parts of phosphorus. On putting a common sul- 

ij phur match into this fire bottle, stirring it about i 



MISCELLANEOUS. 



393 



little and then withdrawing it into the air it will 
take fire. Sometimes, however, it is found ne- 
cessary to rub the match, when withdrawn from 
the phial, on a cork before it will inflame. 
Instantaneous Ught boxes. 

The liquid is concentrated sulphuric acid. The 
bottle containing it is never opened except when it 
is to be used; for tlie acid, when exposed to the 
air, imbibes moisture very rapidly and is soon 
spoiled. The matches are prepared aS follows: 
—the ends of some small slips of light wood are 
dipped into a strong solution o'. g^m, and after- 
wards into the mixture of chlorate of potass and 
sulphur, prepared by rubbing 2 grains of .the for- 
mer into a fine powder in a mortar, and adding 1 
grain of flowers of sulphur, then mixing them very 
accurately by well triturating them in the gentlest 
possible manner. 

The powder is fastened to the wood by the gum, 
and the matches when dry are fit for use. Then 
take one and dip it into the liquid, upon whic.'i it 
takes fire. 

Curiowi mode of silvering ivory. 

Immerse a small slip of ivory in a weai solution 
of nitrate of silver, and let it remain till the solu- 
tion has given it a deep yellow co'our; then take it 
out and immerse it in a tumbler of clear water, 
and exp<,se it in the water to the rays of the sun. 
In about three hours the ivory acquires a black co- 
lour; but the black surface on being rubbed, soon 
becomes changed to a brilliant silver. 

To maJce ink for printing on linen viitk types. 

Dissolve 1 part of asphaltum in four parts of oil 
of turpentine, and add lamp-b/ ,ck, or black-lead, 
in fine powder, in sufiicient quantity to render the 
ink of a proper consistence for printing with types. 
To estimate the distance or danger of a thunder- 
cloud. 

From a knowledge of the velocity with which 
sound travels, the distance of a thunder-cloud, or 
of a gun fi.ed on board a ship at sea, even in the 
night time, may be very accurately deduced. In 
the first case, the period of time between seeing 
the lightning and hearing the thunder must be ta- 
ken, and if a stop-watch, or pendulum, is not at 
hand, the pulse may be used; for the pulsations of 
a healthy adult approach so near to seconds, that 
in the time of four or five of them no very sensible 
error can arise. Multiply the number by 1142 
feet, the distance ihrough which sound moves in a 
second. 

Improved method of binding school books. 

When the books have been cut, coloured, and 
backed, cut off the part of the bands intended to be 
laced to the pasteboards, and glue on the back a 
piece of strong smooth linen cloth, which must 
reach within half an inch of the head and foot, 
turning on the sides about an inch: paste the boards 
on each side of the cloth, fixing them^ close in at 
the groove, and give the books a firm pressing in 
the standing press till dry. Square the boards, 
glue the backs, and cover and finish the books in 
the usual manner. 

This method will secure and give strength to 
the joints, so as efifectually to prevent the leather 
from breaking, and require no more time than lac- 
ing in the bands. The edges may now be colour- 
ed, sprinkled, or marbled, as required. 
To cover books with leather. 

Immerse the leather in water; after which wring 
it, and stretch it on a board; place the book with 
the boards extended thereon, and cut out the cover 
allowing about half an inch larger than the book, 
to turn over the inside of the pasteboards. Fare 
the edge of the cover very thin all round, on a mar- 
ble slab, and paste it well; glue the back of the 
uook, and spread the cover or. the board. 
2 Z 



Let the pasteboards be properly squared and 
even; put the book on the cover, which draw or» 
very tight. Rub the cover smooth with a folding 
stick, and turn it over on the inside of the paste- 
boards on the fore edge. The corners on the in- 
side must be cut and neatly pressed down; tie a 
piece of thread round the book, between the boards 
and the head-bands, draw up the leather on the 
back, if necessary, to cover the top of the head- 
bands; rub the back very smooth with a flat fold- 
ing stick, and place it at a distance from the fire 
to dry. 

Rough calf must be damped on the grain side 
with a sponge and water before pasting and co- 
vering. 

Russia leather must be well soaked in water for 
an hour, taken out, well beaten, and rubbed; after 
which the paste must be well worked into the flesh 
side before covering. 

Morocco must be grained by rubbing it on a 
board, with the grain side inside, and after being 
pasted, left to soak for a quarter of an hour, and 
the cover to be drawn on with a piece of woollen 
cloth to preserve the grain. 

Roan may be either soaked in water or left to 
soak when pasted. 

Half bound books. 

These must be forwarded in boards, the half 
cover and corners well pared on the edges, tied 
round the head-bands, and before putting on the 
marble paper, the edges must be burnished. 

All whole bound books should be pressed be- 
tween two pressing boards of the same size, to 
make the cover more smooth, and to give the 
joints neatness at the back. 

To preserve cabbages and other esculent vegeta- 
bles fresh during a sea voyage, or a severe -win- 

ter. 

Cut the cabbage so as to leave about two inche? 
or more of the stem attached to it; after which, 
scoop out the pith to about the depth of an inch, 
taking care not to wound or bruise the rind by the 
operation. Suspend the cabbages by means of a 
cord, tied round the stem, so that that portion of 
it from which the pith is taken remain uppermost, 
which regularly fill every morning with fresh water. 
By this simple method, cabbages, cauliflowers, 
broeoli, &c. may be preserved fresh during a long 
voyage, or, in a severe winter, for domestic use. 
To manufacture salt by evaporation on faggots. 

This method, according to Mr Bakewell, is prac- 
tised with great success at Montiers, in the Tar- 
ranties. There are four evaporating houses; the 
first and second receive the impregnated water 
from the reservoir, and evaporate one half of the 
water. They are 350 yards long, 25 feet high, and 
7 feet wide, uncovered at the top. They consist 
merely of a frame of wood, composed of uprig-ht 
posts, 30 inches from each other, strengthened by 
cross bars, and supported by stone buttresses, un- 
der which are troughs to receiv.e the water. These 
frames are filled with double rows of blackthorn 
faggots, placed loosely, so as to admit air, and sup- 
ported by transverse pieces of wood. The water 
is raised above the faggots, and made to fall upon 
them, through holes, in a gentle shower. It is 
then raised, and made to fall in like manner, till, 
by evaporation, it is reduced to half its original 
quantity. It is afterwards thrown in like manner 
over feggots in a third house, covered, to protect 
it from rain, till it is reduced to l-7th of its ori- 
ginal quantity. The fourth house requires to be 
only 70 yards long. It is afterwards carried into 
pans for boiling, and the salt is crystallized in the 
usual manner — 8000 hogsheads at Montiers are, 
by the first two processes, reduced to 4,000; by the 
third to 1,100; and by the fourth to 550 hogsheads 



394 



tlNmiRSAl^ RECEIPT BOOK. 



which latter contain 23 per cent, of salt. The 
faggots are changed every four or five years. 
To cool worts in brexoing. 

Let the worts pass through a pipe, turned like 
Hie wormof a still, and let the -worm be immersed 
in any running water. Carry the pipe at the lower 
end of the worm, into another vessel, lower than 
the first, and it will re-discharge itself at a tem- 
perature adapted to immediate fermentation. 
To preserve eggs. 

Hang them by hooks in strong cabbage-nets, and 
every day hook them on a fresti mesh, so as thereby 
to turn the eggs. 

To boil potatoes mealy. 

Select them of an uniform size, and pour over 
them cold water, in an uncovered pot just sufficient 
to cover them. When this first water nearly boils, 
pour it oft", and replace it with a similar quantity 
of salted cold water. They will thus be mealy, 
and not cracked. The prongs of a fork will prove 
when they are done. 

To preserve potatoes. 

Large quantities may be cured at once, by put- 
ting them into a basket as large as the vessel con- 
taining the boiling water will admit, and then just 
dipping them a minute or two at the utmost. The 
germ, which is so near to the skin, is thus killed, 
■without injuring the potatoe; and in this way se- 
veral tons might be cured in a few hours. They 
should then be dried in a warm oven, and laid up 
in sacks or casks, secure from the frost, in a dry 
place. 

Another method. 

Another mode of preserving this valuable root, 
is first to peel them, then to grate them down into 
a pulp, which is put into coarse cloths, and the 
water squeezed out by putting them into a com- 
mon press, by which means they are formed into 
flat cakes. These cakes are to be well dried and 
preserved for use as required. This is an excel- 
lent and ingenious mode of preserving potatoes, 
although attended with too much trouble on the 
large scale. 

'J'o choose the time for cutting wheat. 

The cutting of grain should be commenced 
■whenever the straw immediately below the ear is 
so dry that on twisting it no juice can be expressed, 
fcr then the grain cannot improve, as the circula- 
tion of juice to the ear is stopped. It matters not 
that the stalk below is green. Every hour that the 
grain stands uncut, after passing this stage, is at- 
tended with loss. 

To cfjoose a carpet. 

Always select one the figures of which are small; 
for in this case the two webs in which the carpet- 
ing consists, are always much closer interwoven 
than in carpets where lai'ge figures upon ample 
grounds are represented. 

Renovation of manuscripts. 

Take a hair pencil and wash the part which has 
been effaced with a solution of prussiate of potash 
in water, and the writing will ag&ui appear if the 
paper has not been destroyed. 

Russian mode of making butter. 

The process consists in boiling (or rather that 
species of boiling called simmering) the railk for 
the space of fifteen minutes, in its sweet state — 
observing, at the same time, not to use sufficient 
heat to burn the milk; it is then churned in the 
usual manner. This process produces butter im- 
mediately, and of a quality far superior to that 
made from milk which has undergone vinous fer- 
mentation; and in addition to its superior flavour, 
it will preserve its qualities much longer than that 
made in the ordinary mode. Another advantage 
IS, that the milk, being left sweet, is possessed of 
almost the same value for ordinary purposes, and 



more healthy, is the boiling or scalding desttoyj 
whatever animalcule it may have contained. 

In winter it would be advantageous to have the 
milk scalded in vessels calculated to stand in the 
kettle or boiler, by which mode the danger of 
burning the milk will be avoided; for milk only 
burns on the edges of its surface, or where it comes 
in contact with the sides of the vessel in which it 
is heated, which is obviated by placing kettles one 
within th > other. 
Great saving of hops, by substituting gentian root. 

The proportion of gentian root to each bushel 
of malt varies from one ounce to an ounce and a 
half, to which it would be advantageous to add a 
quarter of a pound of hops. The gentian root is 
merely sliced and placed in the boiling wort pre- 
cisely in the same manner that hops usually are 
— the flavour is fully equal; and the price conside- 
rably under the charge for the hop, the gentian not 
costing more than l^d. per oz. 

Cure of rheumatism. 

Take cucumbers, wher> full grown, and put them 
into a pot with a little salt; then ]»ut the pot over a 
slow fire, where it should remain for about an 
hour; then take the cucumbers and press them, the 
juice from which must be put into bottles, corked 
up tight, and placed in the cellar, where they 
should remain for about a week; then wc. a flannel 
rag witii the liquid, and apply it to the parts af- 
fected. 

For the cure of violent itching of the feet from m- 
cipient chilblains. 

One part of muriatic acid, mingled with seven 
parts of water, with which the feet must be well 
rubbed for a night or two before going to bed.-^ 
This application must be made before the skin, 
breaks. It will prevent the further progress of the 
chilblains. The feet may be a little tender for a 
short time, but this slight inconvenience will soon 
disappear. 
To preserve substances by heating it. well closea 



This mode of preserving vegetables as well as 
animal food, directs that the substances to be pre- 
served are to be put into strong glass bottles, with 
necks of a proper size, corked with the greatest 
care, luted with a mixture of lime and soft cheese 
spread on rags, and the whole bound down with 
wires across it; the bottles are then inclosed sepa- 
rately in canvas bags, and put into a copper of 
water, which is gradually heated till it boils, and 
thus kept until it is presumed that the substances 
are as it were boiled in their own water. Meat 
or poultry ought to be three quarters boiled or 
roasted before it is put into the bottles; the whole 
is then left to cool, the bottles taken out, and care- 
fully examined before they are laid by, lest they 
should have cracked or the lute given way. The 
patentees use stone jars, and tin boxes soldered up, 
instead of glass bottles. 

To frame a polygraph, or instrument for writing 
two letters at once. 

In this instrument, two pens, and even three if 
necessary, are joined to each other by slips of 
wood acting upon the pivot; one of these pens 
cannot move without drawing the other to follow 
all its movements; the rules are inflexible, and 
they preserve in all their positions the parallelism 
which is given by uniting them. The movements 
of one of these pens are identically the same as 
those of the other; the characters traced by the 
first are the exact counterpart of those which the 
second has formed; if the one rise above the paper 
and cease to write, or rather if it make a scratch, 
or advance towards the ink bottle, the other, faith- 
ful to the movements which are transmitted to it 
by the species of light wood which directs it, eithei 



MISCELLANEOUS. 



195 



rises or scratches or draws ink, and that without 
having occasion to give anv particular attention to 
it. The cop) is made oi itself, and without ever 
thinking of it. 

The polygraph is not expensive; it is used with- 
out difficulty, and almost with the same facility as 
in ordinaiy writing. The construction is as sim- 
ple as it is convenient; all the parts are collected 
so as to be taken to pieces and put up again very 
easily. Its size admits of its taking every desira- 
ble position, horizontal, perpendicular, or obKque, 
according to the application which is made of it, 
and the piece of furniture to which it is to be adapt- 
ed; for it may be fixed to a drawer, a desk, an ink- 
stand, an easel, or simply laid upon the table; it is 
generally accompanied by a drawer, and a case of 
the form and bulk of an ordinary desk. 
To extinguish a recent ^re. 

A mop and a pail of water are generally the 
most efficacious remedies; but if it has gained 
head, then keep out the air, and remove all ascend- 
ing or perpendicular combustibles, up which the 
fire creeps and increases in force as it rises. 
To escape from or go into a house on fire. 

Creep or crawl with your face near the ground, 
and although the room be full of smoke to suffoca- 
tion, yet near the floor the air is pure, and may be 
breathed with safety. The best escape fron^ upper 
windows is a knotted rope, but if a leaf is una- 
voidable, then a bed sh /Uld be thrown out first, or 
beds prepared for the purpose. 

Substitute for Stt4on cheese. 

Families may produce their own Stilton by the 
following simple process:— To the new milk of 
the cheese-m^ing morning, add the cream from 
that of the preceding evening, together with tlie 
rennet, watching the full separation of the curd, 
which must be removed from the whey without 
breaking, and placed in a sieve until of such a con- 
sistence as to bear being lifted up and placed in a 
hoop that will receive it without much pressure. 
The cheese as it dries will shrink up, and must 
therefore be placed from time to time in a tighter 
hoop, and turned daily until it acquires the proper 
degree of consistence for use or keeping. 
To imitate Parmesan. 

Let the day's milk be heated to the degree -»f 120 
degrees of Fahrenheit, then removed from the fire 
until all motion ceases. Put in the rennet, allow 
an hour for the coagulation, after which set the 
curd on a slow fire until heated to 150 degrees, 
during which the curd separates in small lumps. 
A few pinches of saffron are then thrown in to- 
gether with cold water sufficient to reduce it in- 
stantly to a bearable heat, when the curd is collect- 
ed by passing a cloth beneath it, and gathering it 
up at the roomers. Place the curd in a circle of 
wood without a bottom; lay it on a tabiC covered 
by around piece of wood, pressed down by a heavy 
stone. The cheese will acquire sufficient consis- 
tence in the course of a night to bear turning, when 
the upper side is to be rubbed with salt, and con- 
tinued alternately for 40 days. 

In Italy the outer crust is next cut ofi^, and the 
new surface varnished with linseed oil: but that 
may well be omitted, as well as colouring one side 
of it red. 

To white wash. 

Put some lumps of quick lime into a bucket of 
cold water, and stir it about till dissolved and mix- 
ed, after which a brush with a large head, and a 
long handle to reach the ceiling of the room, is 
used to spread it thinly on the walls, &c. When 
dry, it is beautifully white, but its known cheap- 
ness lias induced the plasterers to substitute a mix- 
ture of glue size and whiting for the houses of their 
opulent customers; and this, when once used, pre- 



cludes the employment of I'me-washing ever after 
for the latter, when laid on whiting, becomes yel- 
low. 

White washing is an admirable manner of ren- 
dering the dwellings of the poor clean and whole- 
some. 

To prevent the smoking of a lamp. 

Soak the wick in strong vinegar, and dryU welt 
before you use it; it will then burn both sweet and 
pleasant, and give much satisfaction for the trifling 
trouble in preparing it. 
Easy mode of taking impressions from coins, &c. 

A very easy and elegant way of taking the im- 
pressions of medals and coins, not generally known, 
is ihus described by Dr Shaw: — Melt a little isin 
glass glue with brandy, and pour it thinly over the 
medal so as to cover its whole surface; let it re- 
main on for a day or two, till it is thoroughly dried 
and hardened, and then taking it off" it will be fine, 
clear, and as hard as a piece of Muscovy glass, and 
will have a very elegant impression of the coin, ft 
will also resist the effects of damp air, which oc- 
casions all other kinds of glue to snften and bend 
if not prepared in this way. 

Paste for sharpening razors. 

Take oxide of tin levigated, vulgarly termed 
prepared putty, one ounce; saturated solution of 
oxalic acid, a sufficient quantity to form a paste. 
This composition is to be rubbed over the strop, 
and when dry a little water may be added. The 
oxalic acid having a great attachment for iron, a 
little friction with this powder gives a fine edge to 
the razor. 

A natural dentifiice. 

The common strawberry is a natural dentifrice, 
and its juice, without any preparation, dissolves 
the tartareous incrustations on the teeth, and makes 
the breath sweet and agreeable. 

To make glass jars look Uke china. 

After painting the figures, cut them out, so that 
none of the white of the paper remains, then take 
some thick gum-arabic water, pass it over all the 
figures, and place them on the glass to taste: let 
them stand to dry for 24 hours, then clean them 
well with a svet cloth betwixt the prints, and let 
them stand a few hours longer lest the water should 
move any of the edges, then take white wax and 
flake white, ground very fine, and melt them to- 
gether: with a japanning brush go over all the 
glass above the prints; done in this manner they 
will hold water; or, boil isinglass to a strong jelly, 
and mix it up with white lead ground fine, and lay 
it on in the same manner: or use nut oil and flake 
white. For a blue ground, do it with white wax 
and Prussian blue, ground fine; for red, wax and 
vermilion or carmine; for green, wax and verdi- 
gris; for a chocolate colour, wax and burnt umber- 
To make artificial red coral branches, for the em- 
beUishment of grottoes. 

Take clear rosin, dissolve it in a brass pan, to 
every ounce of which add 2 drs. of the finest ver- 
milion; when stirred well together, choose the 
twigs and branches, peeled and dried, then take a 
pencil and paint the branches all over whilst the 
composition is warm: afterwards shape them in 
imitation of natural coral. This done, hold the 
branches over a gentle coal fire, till all is smooth 
and even as if polished. In the same manner white 
ocral may be prepared with wLite lead, and black 
coral, with lamp-black. A grotto may be built 
with little expense, of glass, cinders, pebbles, 
pieces of large flint, shells, moss, stones, counter- 
feit coral, pieces of chalk, &:c. all bound or cement* 
ed together with the above described cement. 
To prepare hair for wigs. 

Hair which does not curl or buckle naturally, is 
brought to it by art, by first bailing and thea baking 



396 



UNIVERSAL llECEIPT BOOK 



its After having picked and sorted the Viair,and dis- 
posed it in parcels according to lengths, roll them 
up and tie them tight down upon little cylindrical 
instruments, either of wood or earthenware, a 
quarter of an inch thick, and hollowed a little in 
the middle, called pipes; in which state they are 
put in a pot over the iire, there to boil for about 
two hours. When taken out let them dry; and 
when dried, spread them on a sheet of brown pa- 
per, cover them with another, and thus send them 
to the baker, who making a crust around them of 
common paste, sets them in an oven till the crust 
is about three-fourths baked. 

To make -wax candles. 
Place a dozen wicks on an iron circle, at equal 
distances, over a large copper vessel, tinned and 
full of melted wax; pour a ladleful of the wax on 
the tops of the wicks, one after another; what the 
wick does not take, will drop into the vessel, which 
must be kept warm by a pan of coals; continue 
this process till the candles are as large as required. 
If they are wanted of a pyramidal form, let the 
first three ladlesful be poured on at the top of the 
wick, the fourth at the height of three quarters, the 
fifth at lialf, and the sixth at a quarter; then take 
them down hot, and lay them beside each other in 
a feather-bed folded in two to preserve their warmth 
and keep the wax soft; then take them down and 
roll them one by one on a smooth table, and cut 
off" the thick end as required. 

To make rush lights, &c. 
Take a quantity of rushes during the season, and 
strip off the skin from two sides thereof, leaving 
the pith bare. These, being quite dry, dip them 
in melted grease repeatedly, and a good light for all 
the purposes of a family, may thereby be obtained. 
If cotton yarn, without knots, be procured, and 
passed round a small stick, the ends being slightly 
twisted together, good candles may be made by 
separating these, and dipping them in the same 
kind of grease repeatedly; but suffering each stick 
of candles to cool a little between dip and dip. 
To make transparent dials for public clocks by 
night. 
The figures, and all the other external parts, are 
filed to an angle, so that they shall not cast a shade in 
the oblique directions of the sight. Two circles, the 
one exterior., the other interior, have two grooves be- 
hind, for receiving two thicknesses of glass, formed 
of several pieces, the parts of which are joined to- 
getlier with cement behind the strips or little rods 
that form the figures; thus the joinings are not vi- 
sible outside. Between the two glasses is a piece 
of white cloth which completely enclosed by the 
cement cannot be altered by time. To illuminate 
the transparent parts, first let the dial be fixed by 
its outer circle in a hole, made to fit it in the wall: 
then, in the interval between the dial and the move- 
ment, make a moveable inclosure carrying one or 
more reflectors, according to the size of the dial, 
opposite to one another, in order that the rod may 
not cast a shadow; a pipe is placed above the 
lights, to convey away the smoke and vapour of 
the oil. The hands should be varnished black, 
that they may appear of the same colour by day 
and by night. 

The form of the box enclosing the movement is 
a globe, proportijned to the size of the dial. The 
movement is carried by the dial, in order to have 
but one focus of the light; and then the centre of 
the dial remains opaque, and is varnished white for 
the day-light. The light is fixed to a door made 
in the globe, diametrically opposite to the centre 
of the dial, and a reflector is attached to the same 
door. 

To make grindstones. 
Tiike of river sand, three parts, of seed lac, il 



washed, one part; mix them over a fire in a pot, 
and form the mass into the shape of a grindstone, 
having a square hole in the centre, jx it on an axis 
with liquefied lac, heat the stone moderately, and 
by turning the axis ^t may easily be formed into an 
exact orbicular shape. Polishing grind stones are 
made only of such sand as will pass easily through 
fine muslin, in the proportion of two parts of sand 
to one of lac. This sand is found at Ragimaul. It 
is composed of small angular crystalline particles 
tinged red with iron, two parts to one of black 
magnetic sand. The stone-cutters, instead of 
sand, use the powder of a very hard granite called 
corune. These grindstones cut very fast. When 
they want to increase their power they throw sand 
upon them, or let them occasionally touch the edge 
of a vitrified brick. The same composition is 
formed upon sticks, for cutting stones, shells, &c. 
by the hand. 

Improved coffee pot. 
Amongst the new 1 arisian inventions is a coffee 
pot constructed of three pieces: the first is a plain 
boiler, over that is a double fJterer, and at the top 
is an :ijverted coffee pot, which fits on exactly. 
Cold water is placed in the first vessel, and the' 
coffee in the fillering-box. Under the whole is a 
spirit lamp, which in the course of five or six mi- 
nutes causes the water to boil, the vapour arising 
from which completely saturates the coffee. When 
the water boils, which is ascertained by the dis- 
charge of the vapour from the spout of the invert- 
ed cofifee pot, the whole machine is lifted from the 
lamp, and completely inverted; so that the pot 
which was uppermost is at the bottom, and the 
boiling water, which had saturated the coffee, 
3ows through the filterer, clear, into what was be 
I'ore the inverted coffee pot, where in the space of 
two minutes it is ready for use. This mode of 
preparing coffee is a saving of at least 25 per cent, 
and it secures the fine flavour of the berry. — In 
another part of the service is a coffee roaster, of 
glass, over another lamp of a long wide flame. 
The roasting requires about three minutes, and 
even so small a quantity as an ounce may be thus 
prepared. 

To wash and cleanse linens, &c. 
Let the articles intended to be washed, be as- 
sorted according to their qualities of fineness, and 
having done this, put them into different vessels 
containing warm water, at the temperature of 
about 100 or 130 deg-. Fahi.; in this water dissolve 
about one-third or one-fourth of the soap which 
would be required to wash in the ordinary way, 
and to this a small quantity of pearl ashes must be 
added. The clothes being entirely covered with 
this liquor, let them remain in soak for thirty-six 
or forty-eight hours, after which, thej are to be 
taken out of the liquor, and rinsed well in clean 
cold water, giving them a slight wringing, so that 
but little of the water may be retained in the 
clothes. 

A boiler containing as much water as will cover 
the clothes, intended to be washed at one opera- 
tion, is now to be heated to about 100 deg^i-ees 
Fahrenheit, and the remaining quantity of soap 
(about two-thirds the sum used in all), with a lit- 
tle pearl ashes, must now be introduced. When 
the soap is sufficiently dissolved, the clothes may 
be put into the liquor, taking care ttet the finer 
articles are all kept by themselves, and operated 
upon first. The temperature of the liquor must 
now be gradually raised to the boiling point, dur- 
ing a space of twenty minutes or half an hour, not 
faster; then let the whole boil for fifteen or twenty 
minutes, after which the first lot of clothes may be 
taken out, and deposited in a vessel containing 
warm water. Retaining the ley from the first 



MISCELLANEOUS. 



397 



boil, now fill up the vessel with water, and then 
introduce the next coarser kind of articles, and 
operate upon them as above. 

The clothes thus treated are then to be carefully 
examined, and if any spots r'^main, which seldom 
happens, they are to be washed by the hand, giv- 
ing the whole a slight rub in the common way. 
This process of boiling (contrary to the common 
prejudice), will so effectually dislodge every greasy 
and dirty part, that more than three-fourths of the 
business is effected without any rubbing whatever; 
and the clothes are ultimately rendered perfectly 
clean, by merely rinsing in cold water. 
Remedies for tooth-ache. 

Take the inside of a nut gall, and put a small 
piece into the hollow tooth, which is to be removed 
and replaced by another bit, about every half hour, 
as long as white matter comes away with the piece 
taken out The above has been found not only a 
temporary but a permanent cure. 

Another. — The following has been found very 
beneficial in allaying the tooth-ache: Take of tinc- 
ture of opium, rectified spirit of wine, each 3 oz. 
camphor, 6 drs. opium, powdered, 1^ do. pellitory 
of Spain, ^oz. Macerate for eight days. A small 
piece of lint or cotton is to be dipped into the 
tincture, and placed in the cavity of the affected 
tooth. 

Another. — Take a sheet of commjn writing pa- 
per, fold it into a conical form, and set the larger 
end of it on fire, collect the smoke (which will is- 
sue copiously from the smaller end), in a clean 
silver table spoon, and, when the paper is wholly 
consumed, a small quantity of oil will be found in 
the spoon. Then make a pellet of convenient 
size, and, having caused it to absorb as much of the 
oil as will saturate it, put it carefully iato the ca- 
rious tooth. 

Especial care must be taken that the pellet is not 
too large, for, if ih-St circumstance be not attended 
to, in forcii.g the pellet into the tooth, great part 
will be squeezed out. 

Another. — Th« well-known ladybird, coccinella 
septempunctata, possesses a peculiar virtue against 
tiie tooth-ache. " I was induced (says Dr Frede- 
rick Hirsoh, dentist to several German courts) to 
collect some of those insects, and, on repeated tri- 
als, I found it to exceed my expectations, and I 
was so happy as to cure several persons speedily 
and completely with this small insect; finding my- 
self obliged to repeat the remedy only in the cases 
of a few female patients. My method of proceed- 
ing was as follows: — I crushed the insect between 
my thumb and fore-finger, and rubbed it between 
them till their points grew warm. With tlie fore- 
finger and thumb thus prepared, I then rubbed 
both the affected part of the gum and the aching 
tooth; upon which the pain, iu evei-y instance, ex- 
cept in the cases mentioned above, completely 
ceased. 1 found, likewise, that the medicinal vir- 
tue of this insect was so powerful and durable, that 
my fore-finger was capable of removing the tooth- 
ache for some days after, without crushing an in- 
sect on it afresh. It is not to be expected, how- 
ever, that this insect, when preserved dead, should 
produce the like effect; as then its internal parts, 
in which its virtue may be presumed chiefly to re- 
side, are wholly dried up, leaving nothing but the 
wings and an empty shell." 

Another. — Take a clean tobacco-pipe, place the 
bowl of it in the fire till red hot, put two or three 
pinches of henbane-seed into the bowl, over which 
put tne broad part of a common funnel, the tube 
of the funnel against the tooth affected, so that the 
smoke arising from the seed niay enter. As often 
as the pipe gets cold, heat it afresh, and put in 
more seed: continue this for about a quarter of an 



hour, and the pain, if not allayed immediately, 
will soon cease. This is a certain cure (at least a 
relief for some years) for the tooth-ache. The 
seed may be bought at any seed-shop, and two pen- 
nyworth of it will sen'e for twenty people. Care 
should be taken that the person, after the perform- 
ance of this operation, does not take cold; in order 
to prevent this, it had better be performed shortly 
before the patient retires to rest. 

Oil for -watchmakers. 

Put some salad oil into a matrass, or one of the 
Florence flasks in which it is imjjofted, and pour 
on it eight times its weight of spirit of wine; heat 
the mixture until it is ready to boil, then pour off 
the spirit of wine, and let it stand to cool. A 
portion of solid, fatty matter, called stearine, sepa- 
rates, and is to be taken away; and then the spirit 
is to be evaporated away in a basin, or distilled in 
a glass retort, until only about one-fifth part is 
left; by this ra, ans the fluid part of the oil or 
elaine, as it is called, will be separated and depo- 
sited. This elaine ought to have the consistence 
of oil, he colourless, with little or no taste or 
smell; it should not discolour litmus paper, neither 
should it be easily congealable by frost. 
Croton pills for costiveness. 

Dr Coley, of Cheltenham, prescribes croton oil 
in conjunction with Castillo soap and an aromatic 
This composition sits pleasantly on the stomach, 
and operates efficaciously on the intestinal canal. 
The following formula has been found very effica- 
cious in cases of obstinate costiveness: — Take of 
Castille soap, ^ drachm; oil of tiie seeds of the 
croton tiglium, oil of cloves, each 9 drops. After 
being well blended in a marble mortar, and formed 
into a proper mass with liquorice powder, it is to 
be divided into 10 pills, two of which may be ad- 
ministered for a dose. If this quantity should not 
operate sufficiently on the bowels in the course of 
6 hours, one or two more may be given. The root 
of the tiglium is considered, by the native doctors 
of Amboyna and Batavia, to be a specific tor dropsy. 
In the Materia Medica of Hindostan, as much of 
the shavings, or raspings, as can be taken up by 
the thumb and finger, is directed to be taken for a 
dose. The root is both aperient and diurKic. 
Iteafness in old persons. 

This is usually accompanied with confused 
sounds, and noises of various kinds in the inside 
of the ear itself. In such cases, insert a piece of 
cotton wool, on which a A'ery little oil of cloves or 
cinnamon has been dropped; or which has been 
dipped in equal parts of aromatic spirit of ammo- 
nia, and tincture of lavender. The ear-trumpet 
ought likewise to be occasionally used. 
Indian cure for the ear-ache. 

Take a piece of the lean of mutton, ahout the 
size of a large walnu*, put it into the fire, and burn 
it for some time, till it becomes reduced almost to 
a cinder; then put it into a piece of clean rag, and 
squeeze it until some moisture is expressed, which 
must be dropped into the ear as hot as the patient 
can bear it. 

Dr Jiabbington's remedy for hidigestion attended 
■with costiveness. 

Take of infusion of columSo, oz. carbonate of 
potass, 1 drachm, compound tincture of gentian, .S 
ditto. Mix. Three table-spoonsful are to be 
taken eveiy day at noon. 

jf'o remove indigestion, Jlatxdency, and pains of 
the stomach after eating. 

Take half a wine-glassful of the tollowing mix- 
ture a quarter of an hour after dinner:- -Magnesia 
and carbonate of soda, of each 2 drachms; iipirils 
of sal volatile, 4 drachms; and distilleil or pure 
water, I pint. This also is an excellent cure for 
heart-burn, and mav be taken without injni-v by 

til 



398 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



the most delicate constitutions. It is also an ex- 
cellent medicine to promote sleep, for which pur- 
pose a wine-glassful may be taken at bed time. 
The ^uaco in hydrophobia. 

In the New Monthly Magazine for October, 
1826, is the following statement of the efficacy of 
the guaco for the cure of the bite of a mad dog, 
published by the gentleman who first made use of 
the plant in South America, as an antidote to that 
scourge of human nature, hydrophobia; his words 
are, " I shall simply state, that during myresidence 
in South America, I had frequent opportunities of 
witnessing the direful effects of hydrophobia, with- 
out having in any one case that came under my 
care been successful in its cure by the usual modes 
prescribed in Europe. It fortunately occurred to 
me, tiiat the guaco, so celebrated for curing the 
bite or sting of all venomous snakes, might prove 
equally efficacious in hydrophobic cases. How far 
my idea was correct that an ana ogy existed be- 
tween the virus of a serpent and that of a rabid 
dog, I leave to otiiers to determine; but such was 
my opinion, and I acted upon it in all subsequent 
cases with complete success. 

JHutton hams. 

The Journal des Connoissances Usuelles gives 
the following method of curing legs of mutton like 
ham: — It is necessary that the mutton should be 
very fat. Two ounces of raw sugar must be mixed 
with an ounce of common salt aad half a spoonful 
of saltpetre. The meat is to be rujbed well with 
this, and then placed in a tureen. It must be 
beaten and turned twice a day during three con- 
secutive days; and the scum which comes from the 
meat having been taken off, it is to be wiped, and 
again rubbed with the misture. The next day it 
should be again beaten, and the two operations 
ought to be repeated alternately during ten days, 
care being taken to turn the meat each time. It 
must be then exposed to the smoke for ten days. 
These liams are generally eaten cold. 

1 u make kitchen vegetables tender. 

When peas, French beans, &e. do not boil easily, 
it has usually been imputed to the coolness of the 
season, or to the rains. Thip popular notion is 
erroneous. The difficulty of boilin» them soft 
arises from an excess of gypsum imbibed during 
their growth. To correct tliis, throw a small 
quantity of subcarbonate of soda into the pot along 
with the vegetables. 

3 ransplanting shrubs in full groxvth. 

Dig a narrow trench round the plant, leaving its 
ronts in tiie middle in an isolated ball of earth; 
till the treVieh with plaster of Paris, which will be- 
come hard in a few minutes, and form a case to 
the ball and plant, which may be lifted and re- 
moved any where at pleasure. 

Freezing mi.::ture. 

A cheap and powerful freezing mixture may be 
made by puherizing glauber's salts finely, and 
placing i' level at the bottom of a glass vessel. 
Equal parts of sal ammoniac and nitre are then to 
be finely powdered, and mixed together, and sub- 
sequently added to the glauber's salts, stirring the 
powders well together; after which adding water 
sufficient to dissolve tl.e salts, a degree of cold will 
be produced, frequently below Zero of Fahren- 
heit. But Mr Walker states, that nitrate of am- 
monia, phosphate of soda, and diluted nitric acid, 
will on the instant produce a reduction of tem- 
peratu-e amounting to 80 degrees. It is desirable 
to reduce the temperature of the substances pre- 
viously, if convenient, by placing the vessels in 
water, with nitre powder thrown in occasionally. 
Method of clearing trees from -worms, caterpillars, 
c/c. 

The following method of driving worms, cater- 



pillars, and all other sorts of insects, from trees, 
has lately been practised with singular success:— 
Bore a hole into the trunk of the tree, as far as 
the heart; fill this hole with sulphur, and place irv 
it a well fitted plug; a tree of from four to eight 
inches diameter, requires a hole large enough to 
admit the little finger, and in the same propor*\on, 
for larger or smaller trees. This will usuJly 
drive the insects away in the course of 48 hours, 
but uniformly succeeds, perhaps sometimes after a 
longer period. 

On clearing feathers from their animal oil. 

Take, for every gallon of clean water, 1 pound 
of quick lime; mix them well together; and, when 
the undissolved lime is precipitated in fine powder, 
pour off the clear lime-water for use, at the time it 
is wanted. Put the feathers to be cleaned into ano- 
ther tub; and add to them a quantity of the clear 
lime water, sufficient to cover the feathers about 
three inches, when well immersed and stirred 
about therein. 

The feathers, when thoroughly moistened, will 
sink down, and should remain in the lime-water 
three or four days; after which, the foul liquor 
should be separated from the feathers, by laying 
them on a sieve, to drain. 

The feathers should be afterwards well washed 
in clean water, and dried upon nets; the meshes of 
which should oe about the fineness of those of cab- 
bage-nets. 

The feathers must, from time to time, be shaken 
upon the nets: and, as they diy, they will fall 
through the meshes; and <ire to be collected, in 
order to be beaten, as usual, for use. 

The admission of air will be serviceable in the 
diy'rig; and the whole process will be completed 
in about three weeks. 

The value of the foregoing process was tested by 
several samples of feathers, all of which were per- 
fectly cleanse J from their animal oil; one parcel 
had been stoved for three days, but still retained 
their unpleasant smell, which was completely re- 
moved by the lime-water. 

After the feathers have been cleansed and dried, 
they are put into a strong bag, like a bed tick, 
which is laid upon a stage, and beaten with long 
poles, like broom-handles, until the feathers are 
perfectly light and lively. 

To salt meat. 

In the summer season, especially, meat is fre- 
quently spoiled by the cook forgetting to take out 
the kernels: one in the udder of a round of beef, — • 
in the fat in the middle of the round, — those about 
the thick end of the flank. Sic; if these are not taken 
out, all the salt in the world will not keep the meat. 

The art of salting meat is to rub in the salt tho- 
roughly and evenly into every part, and to fill all 
the holes full of salt where the kernels were taken 
out, and where the butcher's skewers were. 

A round of beef of 'i.S pounds will take a pound 
and a half of salt to be rubbed in all at first, and 
requires to be turned and rubbed every day with 
the brine: it will be ready for dressing in tour or 
five days, if you do not wish it very salt. 

In summer, the sooner meat is salted after it is 
killed the better, and care must be taken to defend 
it from the flies. 

In winter, it will eat the shorter and tenderer 
if kept a few days (according to the temperature 
of the weather) before it is salted. 

In frosty weather, take care the meat is not fro- 
zen, and warm the salt in a frying-pan. The ex- 
tremes of heat and cold are equally unfavourable 
for the process of salting; in the former the meat 
changes before the salt can eftect it; in the latter 
it is so hardened, and ths juices are so congealed, 
that the salt cannot penetra*^e it. 



MISCELLANEOUS. 



399 



If you wish it red, rub it first with saltpetre, in 
the proportion of half an ounce and the like quan- 
tity of moist sugar, to a pound of common salt. 

You may impregnate meat with a very agreeable 
vegetable flavour, by pounding some sweet herbs 
and r-Mons with the salt; you may make it still 
more relished by adding a little savoury spice. 
To piMe meat. 

Six pounds of salt, one pound of sugar, and four 
ounces of saltpetre, boiled with four gallons of 
water skimmed, and allowed to cool, forms a very 
strong pickle, which will preserve any meat com- 
pletely immersed in it. To effect this, which is 
essential, either a heavy board or a flat stone must 
be laid upon tlie meat. The same pickle may be 
used repeatedly, provided it be boiled up occa- 
sionally with additional salt to restore its strength, 
diminished by the combination (Jf part of the salt 
with the meat, and by the dilution of the pickle 
by the juices of the meat extracted. By boiling, 
the albumen which would cause the pickle to spoil 
is coagulated and rises in the form of scum, which 
must be carefully removed. 

An H-hone of 10 or 12 pounds weight will re- 
quire about three quarters of a pound of salt and 
an ounce of moist sugar to be well rubbed into it — 
will be ready in four or five days, if turned and 
rubbed every day. 

The time meat requires salting depends upon 
the weight of it, and how much salt is used. If it 
be rubbed in with a heavy hand, it will be ready 
much sooner than if only lightly rubbed. 

N. B. Dry the salt and rub it with the sugar in 
a mortar. 

Pork requires a longer time to cure (in propor- 
tion to its weight) than beef: a leg of pork should 
be in salt eight or ten days; turn it and rub it every 
day. 

Salt meat should be well washed before it is 
boiled, especially if it has been in salt long, that 
the liquor in which the meat is boiled, may not be 
too salt to make soup of. 

If it has been in salt a long time, and you think 
it will be too salt, wash it well in cold water, and 
soak it in lukewarm water for a couple of hours: 
if it is very salt, lay it in water the night before- 
you intend to dress it. 

I'ermanent and portable apparatus for purifying 
the air. 

An apparatus for purifying the air, on the prin- 
ciples vjf Guyton Morveau, has been lately intro- 
duced into several of the French hospitals, which 
possesses the advantage of being portable, and of 
retaining its properties for a considerable time. It 
consists of a vessel of thick glass, containing about 
six decilitres (1^ wine pint nearly). The edge 
of the vessel, which is strong, is ground very ac- 
curately, and covered with a disk of glass, which 
seals it hermetically. 

This vessel is fixed in a small plank, which sup- 
ports a frame of wood, in the foi-m of a press, and 
is provided with a screw to raise or lower the 
plate of glass, in order to open or shut the appa- 
ratus at pleasure. 

To produce the disinfecting gas, 40 grammes 
(1^ oz.) of black oxide of manganese, powdered 
and passed through a hair sieve, is put into the 
vessel; afterwards one decilitre (l-6th of the ca- 
pacity) of pure nitric acid, of 1.40 specific gravity, 
and,an equal Tolume of muriatic acid, of 1.13 spe- 
cific gravity, is poured over it. 

When the mixture is made, the glass cover is 
pressed strongly down by means of the screw, care 
being taken that there is no dirt on the edge of the 
vessel to prevent it from fitting close. Two-thirds 
of the vessel must aWays be kept empty to contain 
the gas. 



To purify any place whatever, it is sutficient to 
unscrew one turn of the pressure screw, and to 
leave the apparatus open one or two minutes, ac- 
cording to the size of the place to be purified: the 
expansion of the gas Avill be soon perceived through 
the whole of the apartment: the apparatus is then 
to be closed. 

The effects of this apparatus will continue for 
about six months, using it daily: and when they 
cease, the vessel is emptied and washed out, and 
the ingredients renewed in the proportions indi- 
cated. 

This is of great utility in purifying the air of 
hospitals, prisons,workshops, &c. where the num- 
ber of pers^js, or any other cause, renders such a 
measure necessary. The only precaution the use 
of it requires is, to avoid the spontaneous respira- 
tion of the gas immediately on its issuing from the 
vessel, which, without being dangerous, would be 
disagreeable. 

Similar apparatuses on a smaller scale are also 
made, which are enclosed in a box-wood case, and 
carried in the pocket. 

A method of preserving Ume-jidce. 

The juice having been expressed from the fruit, 
was strained, and put into quart bottles: these hav- 
ing been carefully corked, were put into a pan of 
C'Md water, which was then by degrees raised to 
the boiling point. At that temperature it was 
kept for half an hour, and was then allowed to cool 
down to the temperature of the air. After being 
bottled for 8 months the juice was in the state of a 
whitish, turbid liquor, with the acidity, and much 
of the flavour of the lime; nor did it appear to have 
undergone any alteration. Some of the juice, whicli 
had been examined the year before, and which had 
since only been again heated, and carefully bot- 
tled, was still in good condition, retaining much of 
the flavour of the recent juice. Hence, it appears 
that by the application of the above process, the 
addition of rum, or other spirit, to lime or lemon 
juice, may be avoided, without rendering it at all 
more liable to spontaneous alteration. 

Balsamic and anti-pfutrid vinegar. 

Take rue, sage, mint, rosemaiy, and lavender, 
fresh gathered, of each a handful, cut them small, 
and put them into a stone jar, pour upon the herbs 
a pint of the best white-wine vinegar; cover the 
jar close, and let it stand 8 days in the sun, or near 
a fire; then strain it oft', and dissolve in it an ounce 
of camphor. This liquid, sprinkled about the 
sick cliamber, or fumigated, will much revive the 
patient, and prevent the attendants from receiving 
infection. 
For bites and stings of small reptiles and insects. 

The local pain j)rouuced by the bites and stings 
of reptiles and insects, in general, is greatly re- 
lieved by the following- application. Make a lotion 
of five ounces uf distilled water, and one ounce 
of tincture of opium. To be applied immediately. 

Another. — Mix 5^ ounces of distilled water, and 
^ an ounce of water of ammonia. Wash the part 
repeatedly with this lotion until the pain abates. 
On softening cast iron, by J\lr Strickland. 

" There has been a method lately discovered, to 
make cast metal soft and malleabi ; and there are 
already many large manufactories ])Ut up for this 
verv important process. I have visited one of 
them in London, and witnessed the operation. 
The method consists, in placing the cast metal in 
a case or pot, along with, and surrounded by, a 
soft, red ore, found in Cumberland, and other 
parts of England. The cases are then put into a 
common oven, built with fire-bricks, and without 
a chimney, where they are heated with coal op 
coke, placed upon a fire-grate. The doors of tha 
I oven are closed, and but a slight draft of air per- 



400 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



mitted under the grate; and thus a regular heat is 
kept up,' for the space of seven days, or two 
■weeks, depending on the thickness and weight of 
the castings. The cases are then taken out, and 
suffered to cool, and the hardest cast metal is, by 
the operation, rendered so soft and malleable, that 
it may he welded together, or, when in a cold state, 
bent into almost any shape by a hammer or vice. 
In this manner are all articles, such as liarness 
buckles, bridle bits, horsf shoes, and even nails, 
made tough and malleable. Cast horse shoes, 
sub.Tiitted to thiS process, have, after being worn 
out by the action of the horses' feet, been con- 
verted into penknives, and other art'n-.les of cut- 
lery, of a superior quality. I have procured a speci- 
men of the red ore used in this valuable process, 
together with a few articles of the hardest cast 
iron, which have been softened, and rendered per- 
fectly malleable. Those castings, however, which 
are made from pig iron containing the smallest 
portion of carbon, are the best adapted for con- 
version into malleable iron: the only effect pro- 
duced by the introduction of the red ore, along 
with the metal, is to deprive it of its carbon." 

The Cumberland red ore is, it appears, found 
in various parts of the Island of Great Britain, and 
there are, undoubtedly, several varieties of iron ore 
in the United States, which will answer the sami 
purpose. The Cumberland ore is probably an ar- 
gillaceous oxide of iron. The Hematetic iron ore, 
which consists of oxide of iron, silex, andalumine, 
has been successfully used in England, but as it is 
a very hard substance, the difficulty of reducing it 
to powder, in sufficient quantities, is a bar to its 
employment in the large way. The ochery red 
oxide of iron (red-ochre) i-s known to abound 
in many of the states, and is, probably, similar to 
that of Cumberland The Bog-ore, so abundant 
in New Jersey, and in many other places, would 
be likely to answer the purpose, when not conta- 
sninated by phosphate of iron. 
JVi^ht mare. 
Articles of food, most likely to produce night- 
mare, are cucumbers, nuts, apples, and all such 
things as generally produce flatulence. The pa- 
roxysm of night-mare does not always immediate- 
ly follow the eating any improper food, but some- 
times several days elapse before its attack. In 
this case it is easier to foresee, and consequently 
to nr.event it. The signs by which iis approach 
may be known are r-iusual drowsiness, disagreea- 
ble dreams, and disturbed sleep, with wind in the 
stomach and bowels. In this case immediate re- 
course should be had to the carbonate of soda, or 
to either of the following draughts, which may be 
taken at bed-time: — Mix together 10 grains of 
carbonate of soda, 3 drachms of compound tinc- 
ture of cardamoms; I drachm of simple syrup; 
and I oz. of pejjpermint water. 

Jlnother. — Mix together 10 grains of prepared 
ammonia; I drachm of tincture of capsicum; 1 
drachm of syrup of saffron; and 10 drachms of 
cinnamon water. — Should these medicines not pro- 
duce any relaxation of the bowels, it will be ne- 
cessary the following morning to take a dose of 
some of the nccral purging salts, or what will an- 
swer equally well, the following aperient draught: 
Jlnotker. — Mix together 15 grains of magnesia; 
15 grains of rhubarb powder; 8 grains of carbo- 
nate of soda; 1 drachm of simple syrup; and 11 
drachms of peppermint water. — To those persons 
who are habitually subject to night-mare, we would 
advise the frequent lepetition of one or other of 
the draughts, for several nights in succession; af- 
ter ■which the aperient draught may be taken if 
necessarv; and costiveness is in all cases to be 
avoided. 



On the means of presenting or extinguisldng fires 
in steam boats, by professor Robert Hare. 
In the first place, the flues and the furnace may 
be so situated, that the wood work can in no case 
be set on fire by them. In the second place, by 
means of a capacious pump to be worked by the 
engine, and other pumps in different parts of the 
vessel, to be worked by the crew and passengers, 
torrent of water might in a few moments, by the 
aid of hoses and pipes, he directed upon the fi^'e. 
I It would be highly important to have also a 
number of leather fire buckets hung up in an ap- 
propriate place, and ke])t in order; also, buckets 
with ropes attached to them, to draw up water by 
hand. The crew should be trained to use the 
pumps, the hoses, and the buckets for drawing wa- 
ter. If a due degree of discipline were established 
among them, the-effbrts of the passengers would 
soon take the same direction; so that their num- 
bers would tend to diminish the danger, instead 
of rendering it greater. 

Tliere should be at least four good hand pumps, 
two forward and two aft, besides the pump to be 
wrought by the engine. From this pump, which 
could always be used when the fire should not be 
so situated as to incapacitate the machinery, two 
iron pipes should proceed, one to the forward, the 
other to the after part of the boat; to these pipes 
there should be large cocks with hose permanently 
attached, of length sufficient to command the 
greater part of the boat. Each hose should always 
be kept upon a reel; so that on the captain's giving 
an order to work the fire pump, either might be 
immediately ready for use, and the water spout- 
ing, from the terminating pipe, he under the di- 
rection of one of the crew, who should be trained 
for that purpose, to know his post, and perform his 
duty with skill and agility. 

Remedy for flux. 
Take of catechu, in powder, simarouba bark, 
cinnamon, each 2 dr. boiling water, 1 pint. Ma- 
cerate for 4 hours in a covered vessel; strain. Now, 
take off the strained liquor, 7 oz. compound tinc- 
ture of cardamoms, I oz. opium confection, 1 drJ 
Make into a mixture, of which take two table- 
spoonsful 4 times a day. Excellent in fluxes of all 
kinds. 

Dysentei^y and bilioiis disorders. 
The medical qualities of pulverized charcoal 
are daily developing themselves. In addition to 
its value in bilious disorders, two ounces of the 
charcoal, boiled in a pint of fresh milk, may be 
taken in doses of a wine-glassful, by adults, every 
two hours, in the most obstinate dysentery, until 
relief is imparted, which has not failed to be the 
effect in almost every instance. It is harmless, and 
the experiment may be safely tried. Charcoal 
made from maple wood is the fittest for this pur- 
pose. 

Fine black colour. 
" Take some camphor, and set it on fire; from 
the flame will arise a very dense smoke, which 
might be collected in the same way as the lamp- 
black, in the manufactories of that article. As I 
have not required much at a time, I have generally 
collected it on a common saucer, by holding it 
over the flame. This black, mixed with gum ara- 
ble, is far superior to any India ink I have ever 
seen imported; I have also used it ground in oil." 
Miniature painters, who use colours in small 
quantities, sometimes obtain a most beautiful and 
perfect black, by using t'. e buttons which form on 
the snuft" of a candle, when allowed to burn un- 
disturbed. These are made to fall into a small 
thimble, or any other convenient vessel which can 
be immediately covered with the thumb, to ex- 
clude the air. This is found to be perfectly free 



MISCELLANEOUS. 



401 



from grease, and to possess every desirable qua- 
Lty. 

For rheumaUc govt. 

The following medicine, prescribed by Dr Bail- 
lie, has always been found to succeed in removing 
rheumatic gout, and in allaying the general excite- 
ment of the brain and nervous system, which uni- 
formly accompanies it:— Take of camphorated 
mixture, 7 drachms, infusion of rhubarb, 5 do. 
tincture of henbane, -§ a drachm, sub-carbonate of 
potass, 10 grains. Mix for a draught. To be 
taken two or three times a day, particularly the 
last thing at night. 

Wash leather under loaistcoats. — ^In several in- 
stances, the best effects have occurred from wear- 
ing washing leather over flannel, as a preservative 
against the consequence of those exposures to which 
all arc more or less liable. A waistcoat of this 
material will, in many cases, supersede the neces- 
sity of, and prove a more effective barrier against 
cold, than a great coat, and often even after the es- 
tablishment of a rheumatism which refuses to give 
way before the most powerful medicine, clothing 
.he parts affected with leather will almost imme- 
diately effect an easy cure. 

Dropsy. 

The following receipt was given to the late 
countess of Shaftesbury by the prior of the Bene- 
dictine monastery of Corbie, in Picardy. 

Take of broom-seed, well powdered, and sifted, 
1 drachm. Let it steep twelve hours in a glass and 
a half of good rich white wine, and take it in the 
morning, fasting, having first shaken it so that the 
whole may be swallowed. Let the patient walk 
after it, if able, or let her use what exercise she 
can without fatigue, for an hour and a half; after 
which, let her take 2 oz. of olive oil; and not eat 
or drink any thing in less than half an hour after- 
wards. Let this be repeated every day, or once in 
three days, and not oftener till a cure is effected; 
and do not let blood, or use any other remedy dur- 
ing the course. 

Nothing can be more gentle and safe than the 
operation of this remedy. If the dropsy is in the 
body, it discharges it by urine, without any incon- 
venience: if it is between the skin and flesh, it 
causes blisters to rise on the legs, by which it will 
run oS\ but this does not happen to more than one 
in thirty: and in this case no plasters must be used, 
but apply red cabbage leaves. It cures dropsy in 
pi-egnaat women, without injury to the mother or 
child. It also alleviates asthma, consumption, and 
disorders of the liver. 

Prevention of fire in theatres. 

In consequence of the frequent occurrence of 
fires in theatres, particular precautions have been 
taken with the theatre of tiie Port St Martm, at 
Paris. A thick wall of hewn stone separates the 
audience part from the scenic part of the house; 
all the doors in it are of iron, and may be shut in- 
stantly in case of fire; finally, the insulation of the 
spectators from the stage is made perfect by means 
of a screen of plates of iron, which falls down be- 
fore the stage. This screen, which weighs between 
1,200 and 1,S00 pounds, is easily worked by two 
men, and slides up and down upon guides, so as 
readily to take its place. Besides these precau- 
tions, reservoirs of water are established in the 
roof, which may be connected, when necessary, 
with vessels of compressed air, and made to throw 
a powerful jet over a very large part of the build- 

Tanning. 

A tanner, named Rapedius, of Bern Castel, on 

the Moselle, has discovered a new species of tan 

proper for dressing leather. It is the plant known 

liy the name of bilberry or whortleberry, (vaccini- 

o A 



um myrtilus or myrtillis,^ which should be gather- 
ed in spring, because at this season it dries more 
readily, and is more easily ground. Three pounds 
and a half of this tan suffice for dressing a pound 
of leather, while six pounds are required from the 
oak to produce the same efiect. By this new pro- 
cess, tanners can gain four months out of the time 
required for preparing strong leather. A com- 
mission having been appointed at Treves to ex- 
amine the leather so prepared, reported, that they 
had never seen any as good, and that every pair 
of shoes made thereft-om lasts two months more 
than what are manufactured from common leather; 
that the skin of the neck, which it is difficult to 
work, becomes strong and elastic like that of the 
other parts. The shrub should not be pulled up, 
but cut with a bill, to obtain the reproduction of 
the plant the following year. When cut, damp 
does not deteriorate it, which is not the case with 
oak bark, which loses ten per cent, of its value br 
being wetted. 

Method of obtaining roses of aU kinds twice in the 
year. 

The following directions, by M. Douette Richar- 
dot, are to enable the amateur to gather as fine roses 
in September as he did in the preceding June:— 
I. Immediately after the first flowering, the shrub 
is to be deprived of every leaf, and those branches 
which have borne roses cut, so that only two or 
three buds shall remain. The cutting of the weak- 
er branches may be in a less degree. If the weather 
be dry when the leaves are removed, it will be ne- 
cessary to thoroughly water the stem, for several 
days, with the rose of the watering-pot: in this 
way the sap will not be arrested. 2, Then the 
brush is to be used, and the rose tree well cleansed 
by it, so that all mouldiness shall disappear: this 
operation is very easy after an abundant rain. 3. 
The earth about the rose tree is to be disturbed, 
and then twenty-four sockets of calves' feet are tc 
be placed in the earth round the 'item, and about 
four inches distant from it. The hoofs of young 
calves are the best, and give a vivid colour and 
agreeable perfume to the roses. These are to be 
placed with tlie points downwards, so that the cups 
shall be nearly level with the surface of the earth, 
and the plant well surrounded. This operation is 
to be repeated in the November following. These 
hoofs, dissolved by the rain or the waterings, form 
an excellent manure, which hastens the vegetation, 
and determines the reproduction of flowers. 4. 
Two waterings per week will suffice in ordinary 
weather, and they should be made with the rose 
of the watering-pot, so that the hoofs may be filled; 
but, if the atmosphere is dry, it will be necessary 
to water the plants every evening; and in the lat- 
ter case it will be necessary, from time to time, to 
direct the stream of water on to the head of the 
tree. 

Gooseberry and currant wines. 

The following method of making superior goose- 
berry and cun-ant wines is recommended in a 
French work: — For currant wine, eight pounds of 
honey are dissolved in fifteen gallons of boiling 
water, to which, when clarified, is added tlie juice 
of eight pounds of red or white currants. It is 
then fermented for twenty-four hours, and two 
pounds of sugar to every two gallons of water are 
added. The preparation is afterwards ciarified 
with the whites of^ eggs and cream of tartar. — For 
gooseberry wine, the fruit is gathered dry when 
about half ripe, and then pounded in a mortar. 
The juice, when properly strained through a can- 
vas bag, is mixed with sugar, in the proportion of 
three pounds to every two gallons of juice. It is 
then left in a quiet state for fifteen days, at the ex- 
piration of which it is carefully poured off, and 

2 li 



402 



UNIVERSAL RKCEIPT BOOK. 



left to ferment for three months when the quantity 
is under fifteen gallons, and for five months when 
double that quiinlity. It is then bottled, and soon 
oecomes fit for drinking. 

To solder tortoise-shell. 
To solder two pieces of shell together, the two 
edges which are to be joined, must be bevelled, or 
chamfered; taking care that the same inclination 
be given to both, and that they may perfectly fit 
each other. They are then to be placed one upon 
the other, and when the joint is well fitted, a strip 
of paper is to be wrapped firmly round tliem, so as 
to form three or four thicknesses; the whole should 
be secured by a piece of thread. A pair of pin- 
eers resembling small smiths' tongs, or the pinch- 
ing irons used by hair dressers, must be heated, 
the mouth of which must be of sutficicBt length to 
embrace the whole joint; these are to be squeezed 
together, until the shell will bend by its own 
weight, or by the application of a small force with 
the finger. The tongs are then to be removed, and 
when cooled, the piece will be found to be per- 
fectly soldered. Care must be taken that the 
tongs be not too much heated, otherwise, instead 
of soldering, they will burn the shell: to prevent 
this, they must be tried by pinching white paper 
between them; when they are of such a tempera- 
ture as to scorch it very slightly, they are then fit 
for use. 

Q2ialities of the animal and vegetable food com- 
monly used in diet. 

Beef. — When this is the flesh of a bullock of 
middle age, it affords good and strong nourishment, 
and is peculiarly well adapted to those who labour, 
or take much exercise. It will often sit easy upon 
stomachs that can digest no other kind of food; 
and its fat is almost as easily digested as that of 
veal. 

Veal is a proper food for persons recovermg 
from indisposition, and may even be given to fe- 
brile patients in a very weak state, but it affords 
les^nourishroent than the flesh of the same animal 
in a state of maturity. The fat of it is lighter than 
that of any other animal, and shows the least dis- 
position to putresceney. Veal is a very suitable 
food in costive habits; but of all meat it is the least 
calculated for removing acidity from the stomach. 

Mutton, from the age of four to six years, and 
fed on dry pasture, is an excellent meat. It is of 
a middle kind between the firmness of beef and 
the tendernoss of veal. The lean part of mutton, 
however, is the most nourishing and conducive to 
health; the fat being hard of digestion. The head 
of the sheep, especially when divested of the skin, 
is very tender; and the feet, on account of the 
jelly they contain, are highly nutritive. 

tiamb is not so nourishing as mutton; but it is 
light, and extremely suiteble to delicate stomachs. 

House lamb, though much esteemed by many, 
possesses the bad qualities common to the flesh of 
all animals reared in an unnatural manner. 

Pork affords rich and substantial nourishment; 
aud its juices are wholesome when properly fed, 
and when the animal enjoys pure air and exercise. 
But the flesh of hogs reared in towns is both hard 
of digestion and unwholesome. Pork is particu- 
larly improper for those who are liable to any 
foulness of the skin. It is almost proverbial, that 
a dram is good for promoting its digestion: but 
this is an erroneou-s notion; for though a dram may 
give a momentary stimulus to the coats of the sto- 
mach, it tends to harden the flesh, and of course to 
make it more indigestible. 

Smoked hams are a sti-ong kind of meat, and 
rather fit for a relish than for diet. It is the quali- 
ty of all salted meat that the fibres become rigid, 
and therefore more difficult of digest on; and when 



I to this Is added smoking, the heat of the chimney 
I occasions the salt to concentrate, and the fat between 
I the muscles sometimes to become rancid. 

Bacon is also of an indigestible qualify, and it 

I apt to turn rancid on weak stomachs; but for those 

in health it is an excellent food, especially when 

used with fowl or veal, or even eaten with peas, 

cabbages, or cauliflowers. 

Goaf s flesh is hard and indigestible; but that 
of kids is tender, as well as delicious, and affords 
good nourishment. 

Venison, or the flesh of deer, and that of hares, 
is of a nourishing quality, but is liable to the in- 
convenience, that, though much disposed to pu- 
tresceney of itself, it must he kept for a little time 
before it becomes tender. 

7%e blood of animals is used as an aliment by 
the common people, but they could not long sub- 
sist upon it unless mixed with oatmeal, &e.: for it 
is not veiy soluble, alone, by thv, digestive power* 
of the human stomach, and therefore cannot prove 
nourishing. 

jyiilk is of very different consistence in differen 
animals; but that of cows being the kind used in 
diet, isatpresenttheobject of our attention. Milk, 
where it agrees with the stomach, affords excellent 
nourishment for those who are weak, and cannot 
digest other aliments. It does not readily become 
putrid, but it is apt to become sour on the stomach, 
and thence to produce flatulence, heart-burn, or 
gripes, and in some constitutions a looseness. The 
best milk is from a cow at three or four years of 
age, about two months after producing a calf. It 
is lighter, but more watery, than the milk of sheep 
and goats; while, on the other hand, it is more 
thick and heavy than the milk of asses and mares, 
which are next in consistence to human milk. 

On account of the acid which is generated after 
digestion, milk coagulates in all stomachs; but the 
caseous or cheesy part is again dissolved by the di- 
gestive juices, and rendered fit for the purposes 
of nutrition. It is improper to eat acid substances 
with milk, as these would tend to prevent the due 
digestion of it. 

Cream is very nourishing, but, on account of its 
fatness, is difficult to be digested in weak stomachs. 
Violent exercise, after eating it, will, in a little 
time, convert it into butter. 

Butter. — Some writers inveigh against the use 
of butter as universally pernicious; but they might 
with equal reason condemn all vegetable oils, which 
form a considerable part of diet in the southern 
climates, and seem to have been beneficially in- 
tended by nature for that purpose. Butter, like 
every otiier oily substance, has doubtless a relaxing 
quality, and if long retained in the stomach, is lia- 
ble tc become rancid; but, if eaten in moderation, 
it will not produce those effects. It is, however, 
improper in bilious constitutions. The worst con- 
sequence produced by butter, when eaten with 
bread, is, that it obstructs the discharge of the ssh- 
liva, in the act of mastication or chewing; by which 
means the food is not so easily digested. To ob- 
viate this effect, it would be a commendable prac- 
tice at breakfast, first to eat some dry bread, and 
chew it well, till the salivary glands were exfiaust- 
ed, and afterwards to eat it with butter. By these 
means such a quantity of saliva might be carried 
into the stomach as would be sufficient for the pur- 
pose of digestion. 

Clieese is likewise reprobated by many as ex- 
tremely unwholesome. It is doubtless not easy of 
digestion; and when eaten in a great quantity, may 
overload the stomach; but if taken sparingly, its 
tenacity may be dissolved by the digestive juices, 
and it may yield a wholesome, tliough not very 
nourishing chyle. Toasted cheese is agreeable to 



MISCELLANEOUS. 



40S 



most palates, bat It is rendered more iadigestible 
by that process. 

Fowls.— The flesh of birds differs in quality ac- 
eording to the food on which they live. Such as 
feed upon grain and berries, afford, in general, 
good nourishment; if wp except geese and ducks, 
■which are hard of digestion, especially the former. 
A young hen or chicken is tender and delicate 
food, and extremely well adapted where the diges- 
tive powers are weak. But of all tame fowls, the 
capon is the most nutritious. 

Turkeys, &c. — Turkeys, as well as Guinea or 
India fowls, afford a substantial nutriment, but ai'e 
not so easy of digestion as the common domestic 
fowls. In all birds those parts are the most firm, 
which are most exercised: in the small birds, 
therefore, the wings, and in the larger kinds the 
legs, are commonly the most difficult of digestion. 
iVild fo-wls. — The flesh of wild birds, in gene- 
ral, though more easily digested, is less nourishing 
than that of quadrupeds, as being more dry on ac- 
count of their almost constant exercise. Those 
birds are not wholesome which subsist upon worms. 
Insects, and iishes. 

Eicgs. — The eggs of birds are a simple and 
wholesome aliment Those of the turkey are su- 
perior in all the qualiflcations of food. The white 
of eggs is dissolved in a warm temperature, but 
by much heat it is rendered tough and hard. The 
Tolk contains much oil, and is highly nourishing, 
but has a strong tendency to putrefaction; on which 
account, eggs are improper for people of weak 
stomachs, especially when they are not quite fresh. 
Eggs boiled hard or fried are difficult of digestion, 
and are rendered still more indigestible by the ad- 
dition of butter. All e^s require a sufficient 
quantity of salt, to promote their solution in the 
stomach. 

Fish, thoiig;h some of them be light and easy of 
digestion, afford less nourishment than vegetables, 
or the flesh of quadrupeds, and are, of all the ani- 
mal tribes, the most disposed to putrefaction. Salt 
water fish are, in general, the best; but when salted, 
though less disposed to putrescency, they become 
more difficult of digestion. Whitings and flounders 
are the most easily digested. Acid sauces, and 
pickles, by resisting putrefaction, are a proper ad- 
dition to fish, both as they retard putrescency, and 
aon'ect the relaxing tendency of butter, so gene- 
rally used with this kind of aliment. 

Oysters and cockles are eaten both raw and 
dressed: but in the former state they are prefera- 
ble, because heat dissipates considerably their nu- 
tritious parts as well as the salt water, which pro- 
motes their digestion in the stomach; if not eaten 
very sparingly, they generally prove laxative. 

JHuscles and peiixvinkles are far inferior to oys- 
ters, both in point of digestion and nutriment. 
Sea muscles are by some supposed to be of a poi- 
sonous nature; but though this opin> >p is not much 
countenanced by experience, the baiest way is to 
eat them with vinegar, or some other vegetable 
acid. 

Bread. — At the head of the vegetable class 
stands bread, that article of diet which, from ge- 
neral use, has received the name of the staff of 
life. Wheat is the grain chiefly used for the pur- 
pose in this country, and is among the most nutri- 
tive of all the farinaceous kinds, as it contains a 
great deal of starch. Bread is very properly eaten 
with animal food, to correct the disposition to pu- 
trescency; but is most expedient with such articles 
of diet as contain much nourishment in a small 
bulk, because it then serves to give the stomach a 
proper degree of expansion. But as it produces a 
slimy chyle, and disposes to costivenesu, it uught 
not to be eaten in a large quantity. To render 



bread easy of digestion, it ought to be well feiw 
inented and baked, and it neve should be used till 
it has stood twenty-four hours after being taken out 
of the oven, otherwise it is apt to occasion various 
complaints in those who have weak stomachs; such 
as flatulence, heart-burn, watchfulness, and the 
like. The custom of eating butter with bread, 
hot from the oven, is compatible only with very 
strong digestive powers. 

Pastry, especially when hot, has all the disad- 
vantages of hot bread and butter, and even buttered 
toast, though the bread be stale, is scarcely infe- 
rior in its effects on a weak stomach. Dry toast, 
with butter, is by far the wholesomest breakfast. 
Brown wheaten bread, in which there is a good 
deal of rye, though not so nourishing as that made 
of fine flour, is both palatable and wholesome, but 
apt to become sour on weak stomachs. 

Oats, barley, and rice — Oats, when deprived 
of the husk, and particularly barley, when pro- 
perly prepared, are each of them softening, and 
afford wholesome and cooling nourishment. Rice 
likewise contains a nutritious mucilage, and is less 
used in Great Britain than it deserves, both on ac- 
count of its wholesomeness and economical utility. 
The notion of its being hurtful to the sight is a 
vulgar error. In some constitutions it tends to in- 
duce costiveness; but this seems to be owing chieflv 
to flatulence, and may be corrected by the addition oj 
some spice, such as caraways, aniseed, and the like 
Potatoes are an agreeable and wholesome food, 
and yield nearly as much nourishment as any of 
the roots used in diet. The farinaceous or mealy 
kind is in general the most easy of digestion, and 
they are much improved by being toasted or baked. 
They ought almost always to be eaten with meat, 
and never without salt. The salt should be boiled 
with them. 

Green peas and beans, boiled in their fresh state 
are both agreeable to the taste and wholesome 
being neither so flatulent, nor so difficult of diges- 
tion, as in their ripe state; in which they resemble 
the other leguminous vegetables. French bean* 
possess much the same qualities; but yield a more 
watery juice, and have a greater disposition to pro* 
duce flatulence. They ought to be eaten with some 
spice. 

Salads, being eaten raw, require good digestiv? 
powers, especially those of the cooling kind; and 
the addition of oil and vinegar, though qualified . 
with mustard, hardly renders the free use of them 
consistent with a weak stomach. 

Spinach affords a soft lubricating aliment, but 
contains little nourishment. In weak stomachs il 
is apt to produce acidity, and frequently a loose- 
ness. To obviate these effects, it ought always to 
be well beaten, and but little butter mixed with it. 
Asparagus is a nourishing article in diet, and 
promotes the secretion of urine; but in common 
with the vegetable class, disposes a little to flatu- 
lence. 

Artichokes resemble asparagus in their quali- 
ties, but seem to be more nutritive, and less diu- 
retic. 

Cabbages are some of the most conspicuous 
plants in the garden. They do not afford much 
nourishment, but are an agreeable addition to ani- 
mal food, and not quite so flatulent as the common 
greens. They are likewise diuretic, and sonte- 
what laxative. Cabbage has a stronger tendency 
to putrefaction than most other vegetable substan- 
ces; and, during its putrefying state, sends foith 
an offensive smell, much resembling that of putre- 
fying animal bodies. So far, however, from pro- 
moting a putrid disposition in the human body, it 
is, on the contrary, a wholesome aliment in the 
true putrid scur\y. 



404 



UMVERSA-L RECEIPT BOOK 



Turmpt are a nutritious article of vegetable 
food, but not very v:a^- of digestion, and are flatu- 
lent. This effect is in a good measure obviated, 
by pressing the water out of them before they are 
eaten. 

Carrots contain a considerable quantity of nu- 
tritious juice, but are among the most flatulent of 
vegetable productions. 

Parsnips are more nourishing and less flatulent 
dian carrots, which they also exceeJ in the sweet- 
ness of their mucilage. By boiling them in two 
different waters, they are rendered less flatulent, 
but their other qualities are thereby diminished in 
proportion. 

Pavsky is of a stimulating and aromatic nature, 
well calculated to make agreeable sauces. It is 
also a gentle diuretic, but preferable in all its 
qualities when boiled. 

Celery affords a root both wholesome and fra- 
grant, but is difficult of digestion in its raw state. 
It gives an agreeable taste to soups, as well as 
renders them diuretic. 

Onions, garlic, and shalots are all of a stimu- 
lating nature, by which they assist digestion, dis- 
solve slimy humours, and expel flatulency. I'hey 
are, however, most suitable to persons of a cold 
and phlegmatic constitution. 

Radishes of all kinds, particularly the horse 
radish, agree with the three preceding articles in 
powerfully dissolving slimy humours. They ex- 
cite the discharge of air lodged in the intestines. 

Apples are a wholesome vegetable aliment, and 
in many cases medicinal, particularly in diseases 
of the breast and complaints arising from phlegm. 
But, in general, they agree best with the stomach 
when eaten either roasted or boiled. The more 
aromatic kinds of apples are the fittest for eating 
raw. 

Pears resemble much in their effects the sweet 
kind of apples, but have more of a laxative quali- 
ty, and a greater tendency to flatulence. 

Cherries are in general a wholesome fruit, when 
they agree with the stomach, and they are benefi- 
cial in many diseases, especially those of the putrid 
kind. 

Plums are nourishing, and have besides an at- 
tenuating, as well as a laxative, quality, but arc apt 
to produce flatulence. If eaten fresh, and before 
they are ripe, especially in large quantities, they 
occasion colics, and other complaints of the bowels. 

Peaches are not of a veiy nourishing quality, 
but they abound in juice, and are serviceable in 
bilious complaints. 

Apricots are more pulpy than peaches, but are 
apt to ferment, and produce acidities in weak sto- 
machs. Where they do not disagree they are 
cooling, and tend likewise to correct a disposition 
to putrescency. 

Gooseberries and currants, when ripe, are simi- 
lar in their qualities to cherries, and when used in 
a green state, they are agreeably cooling. 

Strawberries are an agreeable, cooling aliment, 
«nd are accounted good in cases of gravel. 

Cucumbers are cooling, and agreeable to the 
palate in hot weather; but to prevent them from 
Droving hurtful to the stomach, the juice ougiit to 
fee squeezed out after they are sliced, and vinegar, 
pepper, and salt, afterwards added. 

2'ea.— By some, the use of this exotic is con- 
demned in terms the most vehement and unquali- 
fied, wiiile others have either asserted its inno- 
cence, or gone so far as to ascribe to it salubrious, 
and even extraordinary virtues. The truth seems 
to lie between these two extremes; there is how- 
ever an essential difference in the effects of green 
tea and of black, or of bohea; the former of which 
is much more opt to affect the nerves of the sto* 



mach than the latter, more especially when dranb 
without cream, and likewise without bread an«b 
butter. That, taken in a large quantity, or at-, a 
later hour than usual, tea often produces watchful- 
ness, is a point that cannot be denied; but if usefl 
in moderation, and accompanied with the addi= 
tions just now mentioned, it does not sensibly dis- 
cover any hurtful effects, but greatly relieves an 
oppression of the stomach, and abates a pain of the 
head. It ought always to be made of a moderate 
degree of strength: for if too weak it certainly re- 
laxes the stomach. As it has an astringent taste, 
which seems not very consistent with a relaxing 
power, there is ground for ascribing this effect not 
so much to the herb itself as to the hot water, 
which not being impregnated with a sufficient 
quantity of tea, to correct its own emollient ten- 
dency, produces a relaxation, unjustly imputed to 
some noxious quality of the plant. But tea, like 
every other commodity, is liable to damage, and 
when this happens, it may produce effects not ne- 
cessarily connected with its original qualities. 

Coffee. — It is allowed that coffee promotes di- 
gestion, and exhilarates the animal spirits; be- 
sides which, various other qualities are ascribed to 
it, such as dispelling flatulency, removing dizzi- 
ness of the head, attenuating viscid humours, in- 
creasing the circulation of the blood, and conse- 
quently perspiration; but if drank too strong, it 
affects the nerves, occasions watchfulness, and tre- 
mor of the hands; though in some phlegmatic con- 
stitutions it is apt to produce sleep. Indeed, it is 
to persons of that habit that coffee is well accom- 
modated; for to people of a thin and dry habit of 
body it seems to be injurious. Turkey coflee is 
greatly preferable in flavour to that of the West 
Indies, Drank, only in the quantity of one dish, 
after dinner, to promote digestion, it answers best 
without either sugar or milk: but if taken at other 
times, it should have both; or in place of the lat- 
ter, rather cream, which not only improves the 
beverage, but tends to mitigate the effect of coflee 
upon the nerves. 

Chocolate is a nutritive and wholesome compo- 
sition, if taken in a small quantity, and not re- 
peated too often; but is generally hurtful to the 
stomach of those with whom a vegetable diet dis- 
agrees. By the addition of vanilla and otlier in- 
gredients, it is made too heating, and so much af- 
fects particular constitutions as to excite nervous 
symptoms, especially complaints of the head. 
Food for horses. 

A practice is becoming general in Silesia of 
feeding horses with bread, made by taking equal 
quantities of oat and rye meal, mixing it with lea- 
ven or yeast, and adding one third of the quantity 
of boiled potatoes. To each horse is given 12 lbs. 
per day, in rations of 4 lbs. each. The bread is 
cut into small pieces, and mixed with a little 
moistened cut «traw. It is stated that by this 
means there is a saving in feeding seven horses of 
49 bushels of oats in 24 days, while the horses 
perform their common labour, and are much bet- 
ter in look, health and disposition. 

Another improvement in the feeding of horses, 
consists i a the substitution for hay and corn, of cut 
straw and potatoes, or straw, chaff, and pounded 
furze mixed, wetted with salt water. The process 
of j[)reparing it is as follows: Let a tub full of fresh 
water, with an egg in it, be impi-egnated with as 
much domestic salt as will cause the egg to rise 
and float on the surface, that being the criterion of 
its saltness being equal to that of sea water. The 
provender being put into a wicker basket, and 
placed on the tub, pour the salted watei-upon it, in 
quantity sufficient to wet the whole mass, and 
when it shall have done filtering through it, give M 



MISCELLAKEOUS. 



405 



*• the horses. The salted water will not only 
■wwsten and sweeten the food, but also operate as 
t »ost efficient alterative to purify the blood, 
purge all gross Immours, prevent the increase of 
worms, and all painful attacks from those trouble- 
some vermin. Horses fed in this manner will 
work well, and will be fit for all sorts of work. A 
man cuts with one knife machine, in four hours, 
enough of wheaten straw to last nine horses for 
twenty-four hours. 

Original receipt for sore eyes. 

Take 1 ounce of white copperas, dissolve it in a 
quart of water, and apply it to the co. ners of the 
eyes three or four times a day, or even every hour. 
The ejes will sm^rt much during the administra- 
tion of the lotion. 

A table-spoonful for an adult, a tea-spoonful for 
a child, of cream of tartar, dissolved in half a tum- 
bler of water, may be taken inwardly, once a day, 
■while using the above. 

The bark of the stem of the pomegranate, a spe- 
cific in the cure of tsema, or tape worm. 

" I have repeatedly put to the test of trial in 
cases of tsinia, with uniform success, the dried 
bark of the stem of the pomegranate shrub, both 
in decoction and in powder, without exciting any 
other sensation than those which arise from the 
fresh bark of the root of the plant. I have also 
ascertained, by frequent trials, that the virtues 
of the bark may be preserved several years. 
Some bark of the stem, which I have had upwards 
of four years, packed in a deal box, I have re- 
cently tried in several cases of tsenia with per- 
fect success; so that I have no hesitation what- 
ever in recommending this drug, not only as a 
safe, but as a perfectly certain remedy for expul- 
sion of tsenia. This drug is equally efficacious in 
expellin.o- from the lower animals (especially dogs), 
taenia. To full grown dogs maybe given the same 
dose as that taken by adults. The powder mixed 
with butter or minced meat, is as good a form as 
any; some dogs will of themselves eat it when pre- 
pared in this manner. The powder may also be 
given in balls, or the decoction may be substituted 
with equal effect. We are indebted, it seems, for 
our knowledge of this invaluable I'emedy for the 
tape worm to a mussulman fakeer, named Azim- 
shah, who, in 1804, having relieved, in a few hours, 
Mr Robert Home, of Calcutta, of a tsenia which 
measured 36 feet in length, was prevailed on, by a 
reward of two gold molars, to disclose the se- 
cret. 

Varnish for boots and shoes, by "which they are ren- 
dered impervious to -water. 

Take a pint of linseed oil, with ^ lb. of mutton 
suet, 6 or 8 oz. of bees'-wax, and a small piece of 
rosin. Boil all these in a pipkin, and let the liquid 
cool till it is milk warm. Then, with a hair-brush, 
lay it on new boots or shoes. If old boots or shoes 
are to be varnished, the mixture is to be laid on 
when the leather is perfectly dry. 
Sympathetic ink. 

The following application of a modern chemical 
<Jiscovery, has never before been communicated to 
the public, and affords a sympathetic ink very far 
superior to any, as yet, in use. Dissolve a small 
quantity of starch in a saucer, with soft water, and 
use the liquid like common ink: when diy, no 
traces of the writing will appear on the paper, and 
the letters can be developed only by a weak solu- 
tion of iodine in alcohol, when they will aj>pear of 
a deep purple colour, which will not be effaced un- 
til after long exposure to the atmosphere. So per- 
manent are the traces left by the starch, that they 
cannot, when dry, be effaced by Indian rubber; and 
in another case, a letter, which had been carried in 
the pocket for a fortnight, had the secret charac- 



ters displaj'ed at once, by beingveiysPghtly moist* 

ened with the above mentioned preparation. ' 

Preservation of -wood by charcoal— especially ap- 

plied to •water-spouts. 

Lay on a good coat of drj'ing oil, then immedi' 
ately dust it over with a thick layer of charcoal, 
finely powdered, and contained in a muslin bag. 
After two or three days, when the oil is thorough- 
ly dried, brush off" the loose particles of the char- 
coal, and cover that which adheres with a coat of 
paint, and a few days after a second. The whole 
will become a firm and solid crust, and preserve 
the wood sound many years. 

N. B. The charcoal should be fresh made, 6e 
heated again in close vessels, so as to expel the 
water which it greedily attracts from the air. The 
most suitable paint is the common lead colour, but 
any other will do. 
Method of packing seeds for transportation, io 

that they may retain their vegetative property. 

The lovers of plants, or those who wish to have 
seeds transported to distant countries, ought to ob- 
serve the precautions which follow, in order that 
the seeds may germinate, when they have been 
sown. The means of effecting this, which we are 
about to make known, are those which have been 
followed by that distinguished botanist, M. Sou- 
lange Bodin, who has had long experience in this 
business. 

All seeds, intended for transportation, should be 
collected in a state of perfect maturity. The finer 
seeds may be enclosed in good paper bags, but 
those which are larger must be placed in layers, 
in very dry sand, and the whole packed in air tight 
vessels. The stratification in dry sand is a pre- 
caution which alone would preserve their germina- 
ting property for many years, and during the 
longest voyages. Saw dust is also a good article, 
but it is necessary to take the precaution of placing 
it in an oven, as we do bran, when we wish to pu- 
rify it from mites, or from the eggs of other in- 
sects. Oleaginous seeds, which are liable soon to 
become rancid, such as those of the coffee plant, 
the oak, nut trees, the tea tree, &c. require, when 
stratified, to be kept with great care separate from 
each other, in sand which is very fine, and very 
dry. Those which are of a middle size, may be 
sent in their pericarps, enclosed air tight in small 
cups or pots, by covers of glass, fixed on with 
putty; or of wood or c6rk, imbedded in melted 
wax, or, which is better, in melted pitch. 

Juicy seeds must be separated from each other, 
as contact would, sooner or later, inevitably cause 
a fermentation which would destroy them. Kox- 
burgdips them into a solution of gum arable; this, 
as it hardens, forms a cuat which defends them 
against every principle of destruction, and enables 
him to transmit them from the Coromandel coast 
to Europe, without undergoing the slightest 
change. 

With respect to bulbous roots, and other plants 
with roots, which always require a length of from 
two to three feet in their shoots or slips, it is best 
to place them either in earth, taken from the spot 
where the plant vegetates freely, or in some other 
earth well divided and mixed, and rather too dry 
than too moist; the mould formed of the rotten 
trunks of trees is very good for the purpose; but it 
is necessary to ascertain that it does not contain 
insects. 

Vegetables, treated in this way, have been 
brought by M. Perrottet from the South Sea, and 
have all lived. The whole may be enclosed in lit- 
tle wooden casks well hooped, and covered, inside 
and out, with a bituminous coating. So situated, 
seeds are unalterable; aud when the vessels are 
well closed, neither insects, external air, moisture 



4U6 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



or even hert, can gain admittance. It is above all 
things necessary (notwithstanding some ill founded 
theories) to he careful not to use fresh moss, or 
immersion in wax, or in pitch; plants sent in this 
way, from the torrid zone to France, have arrived 
either decayed, or quite dried up. 
Remedy for gravel. 

Take of the essential oil of spruce, 1 scruple, 
spirit of nitric ether, 1 oz. Mix. A tea-spoonful 
to be taken two or three times a day, in a tea-cup- 
ful of the decoction of marsh-mallow root. 

.Mother. — Great relief has been derived from 
the use of the following mixture, in some obstinate 
cases of stone and gravel. 

Take of the rectified oil of turpentine, sweet 
spirit of nitre, oil of juniper, balsam of sulphur, 
each half an oz. Mix. Fifteen or sixteen drops 
to be taken, in a wine-glassful of water, 3 times a 
day. 

Another. — ^Take of Venice turpentine, 1 oz. 
powdered gum arabic, 2 oz. powdered grains of 
paradise, and powdered jalap-root, each 2 drachms, 
balsam copaiva, sutHcient to form an electuary. 
The sizp of a walnut to be taken twice a day. 

Another. — Take of Venice turpentine, Castille 
soap, rhubarb powder, extract of cascarilla, each 
one drachm, essential oil of juniper, SO drops. 
Mix well together, and divide into 50 pills. Three 
to be taken twice a day, with a wine-glassful of an 
infusion x>f wild carrot seed. 

Another. — 'Take of Alicant soap, 8 oz. fresh 
lime, finely powdered, 1 oz. oil of tartar, 1 drachm. 
With sufficient quantity of water for a mass, and 
divide it into 5 grain pills; from S to 4 of which 
should be taken daily. This is the celebrated re- 
ceipt of Mrs Stevenson for stone and gravel, im- 
proved by Dr Hartley. 

Another. — Boil 36 raw coffee-berries for one 
hour in a quart of soft spring or river water, then 
bruise the berries and boil them again another 
hour in the same water; add thereto a quarter of a 
tea-spoonful of the dulcified spirit of nitre, and 
take daily a half-pint cup of it at any hour that is 
convenient; its efficacy will be experienced after 
taking it for two months. 

African remedy. — The following means of cur- 
ing the stone liave lately been published by an Af- 
rican negro: — " Take a quarter of a pint of the 
expressed juice of horse-mint, and a quarter of a 
pint of red onion juice, evening and morning, till 
the cure is perfected. White onions will not have 
the same effect as red. To obtain the juice they 
may be cut in thin slices, and well salted, and 
bruised between two pewter plates. It is, however, 
the juice of horse-mint which possesses the most 
virtue in this disorder; a strong decoction of which 
will, generally, in time, effect a cure." 

Removal of biliary calculi or gall stones. 

The Bibliotheque Medicale for August, 1813, 
contains an account of a wonderful cure of obstruc- 
tion in the liver, occasioned by biliary calculi. 
The remedy employed consisted of a combination 
of 3 oz. of sulphuric ether, with 2 oz. of oil of 
turpentine. The dose of this mixture was half a 
drachm every morning and evening, witli a draught 
of milk-whey, or veal broth, immediately after- 
wards. Fifteen calculi, each of the size of an 
olive, were voided during the six months that this 
solvent was administered; after which the patient 
■was restored to perfect health. M. Guyton de 
Morveau recommends a combination of ether, with 
the yolk of eggs, as giving less pain than that of 
ether and turpentine, when the patient suffers 
much from the expulsion of the calculi. 
Sudden death. 

When sudden death happens in the street, the 
nearest door should be immediately opened for the 



reception of the body. In all cases, interroenc 

should be deferred till signs of putrefaction appear, 
but especially in those where no gradation of dis- 
ease has preceded, as in cases of hysterics, apo- 
plexy, external injuries, drowning, suffocation, and 
the like. The effects of sound upon animal life is 
astonishing. The beat of a drum may have a very 
beneficial effect upon persons in a state of suspend- 
ed animation. At one time, a scream, extorted 
by grief, proved the means of resuscitating a per- 
son who was supposed to be dead, and who had 
exhibited the usual recent marks of the extinction 
of life. 

Cautions against premature interment. 
In cases of malignant fevers, putrescenoy ad- 
vances speedily, and, under such circumstances, 
the time of the funeral ought not to be unnecessa- 
rily protracted; but this ought never to be the case 
in northern climates, and in temperate or even 
cool weather. Young persons, in the bloom of 
health and vigour, may be struck down by an ill- 
ness of only a few days, or even hours, but they 
ought not to be consigned to the same summary 
sentence, merely because custom has ordained it. 
No sooner has breathing apparently ceased, and 
the visage assumed a ghastly or death-like look, 
than the patie-it, after his eyes are closed, is too 
ofien hurried into a coffin, and the body, scarcely 
yet cold, is precipitated into the grave. So ex- 
tremely fallacious are the signs of death, that too 
often has the semblance been mistaken for the 
reality; especially after sudden accidents, or short 
illness. Many of these, however, by prompt 
means and judicious treatment, have been happily 
restored. 

Assistance to a person in danger of drovming. 

If the spectator is unable to swim, and can make 
the sufferer hear, he ought to direct him to keep 
his hands and arms under water until assistance 
comes; in the mean time throw towards him a rope, 
a pole, or any thing that may help to bring him 
ashore, or on board; he will eagerly seize what- 
ever is placed within his reach: thus he may, per- 
haps, be rescued from his perilous situation. 

But this desirable object appears attainable by 
the proper use of a man's hat and pocket handker- 
chief, which, being all the apparatus necessary, is 
I to be used thus: Spread the handkeichief on the 
ground, or deck, and place a hat, with the brim 
downwards, on the middle of it; then tie the hand- 
I kerchief round the hat, like a bundle, keeping the 
knots as near the centre of the crown as possible. 
Now, by seizing the knots in one hand, and keep- 
ing the opening of the hat upwards, a person, 
without knowing how to swim, may fearlessly 
plunge into the water, with whatever may be ne- 
cessary to save the life of a fellow creature. 

The best manner in which an expert swimmer 
can lay hold of a person he wishes to save from 
sinking, is to grasp his arm firmly between the 
shoulder and the elbow: this will prevent him 
from clasping the swimmer in his arms, and thus 
forcing him under water, and, perhaps, causing 
him to sink with him. 

To escape the effects of lightning. 

When persons happen to be overtaken by a 
thunder-storm, although they may not be terrified 
by the lightning, yet they naturally wish for shelter 
from the rain which usually attends it; and, there- 
fore, if no house be at hand, generally take refuge 
under the nearest tree they can find. But in doing 
this, they unknowingly expose themselves to a 
double danger; first, because their clothes being 
thus kept dry, their bodies are rendered more lia- 
ble to injury, — the lig!itning often passing harm- 
less over a body whose surface is wet; and, jecond 
ly, because a tree, or any elevated object, instead 



MISCELLANEOUS. 



40" 



«t warding off, serves to attract and conduct the 
lightning, which, in its passage to the ground, fre- 
quently rends the trunks or branches, and kills any 
person or animal who happens to be close to it at 
the time. Instead of seeking protection, then, 
by retiring under the shelter of a tree, hay-rick, 
pillar, wall, or hedge, the person should either 
pursue his way to the nearest house, or get to a 
part of the road or field which has no high object 
that can draw the lightning towards it, and remain 
here until the storm has subsided. 

It is particularly dangerous to stand near leaden 
spouts, iron gates, or palisadoes, at such times; 
metals of all kinds having so strong an attraction 
for lightning, as frequently to draw it out of the 
course which it would otherwise have taken. 

AVhen in a house, avoid sitting or standing near 
the window, door, or walls, during a thunder 
storm. The nearer a person is to the middle of a 
room, the better. 

The greatest evil to be apprehended from light- 
nmg, is the explosion of powder-magazines. 
These may, in a great degree, be secured from 
danger by insulation, or by lining the bulk-heads, 
and floorings, with materials of a non-conducting 
nature, the expense of which would not be great. 
JHeans of restoring persons lulia have been fam- 
ished. 
In our attempts to recover those who have suf- 
fered under the calamities of famine, great cir- 
cumspection is required. Warmth, cordials, and 
food, are the means to be employed; but it is evi- 
dent that these may prove too powerful in their 
operation, if not administered with caution and 
judgment. For the body, by long fasting, is re- 
duced '.o a state of more than infantile debility; the 
minuter vessels of the brain, and of the other or- 
gans, collapse for want of food to distend them; 
the stomacn and intestines shrink in their capacity; 
and the heart languidly vibrates, having scarcely 
sufficient energy to propel the scanty current of 
blood. Under such circumstances, a proper ap- 
plication of heat seems an essential measure, and 
may be effected, by placing on each side, a healthy 
man, in contact with the patient. Pediluvia, or 
fomentation of the feet, may also be used with 
advantage. 

The temperature of these should be lower than 
that of the human body, and gradually increased 
according to the effects of their stimulus. New 
milk, weak broth, or water-gruel, ought to be 
employed, both for the one and the other; as nour- 
ishment may be conveyed into the system this way, 
by passages, properly the most pervious in a state 
of fasting, if not too long protracted. 

It appears safer to advise the administration of 
cordials in very small doses, and, at first, con- 
siderably diluted with either wine or spirits; but 
— slender wine whey will very well answer this 
purpose; and afford, at the same time, an easy and 
pleasant nourishment. When the stomach has 
been a little strengthened, an egg may be mixed 
with the whey, or administered under some other 
agreeable form. The yolk of one was, to Cor- 
naro, sufficient for a meal; and the narrative of that 
noble Venetian, in whom a fever was excited by 
the addition of only two ounces of food to his daily 
allowance, shows, that the return to a full diet 
should be conducted with great caution, and by 
very slow gradations. 

JVoxious vapours. 
To prevent the effects of noxious vapours from 
wells, cellars, fermenting liquors, &c. procure a 
free circulation of air, either by ventilators, or 
opening the doors or windovi-s where it is confined, 
or by keeping fires in the infected place; or throw- 
ing in lime, recently burnt or powdered. 



Old wells, vaults, and sewers, which have been 
long shut up from the air, are generally occupied 
by vapours which soon prove fatal to persons breath* 
iag them. The property which these vapours have 
of extinguishing flame, affords the means of de 
tecting their presence, and thereby avoiding the 
danger of an incautious exposure to them. When 
such places, therefore, are opened to be cleaned 
out or repaired, a lighted candle should be let 
down slowly by means of a cord, before any per- 
son is suffered to descend; and if it bums freely 
until it gets to the surface of the water, or other 
matter covering the bottom, the workmen may 
then venture down with safety. But, if without 
any accident, the candle is extinguished, and con- 
tinues to be so on repeated trials, then the air of 
the place is highly noxious. 

To restore and improve Jlour. 
One pound of the carbonate of magnesia is to be 
well combined with 250 lbs. of musty flour; that is, 
in the minor proportion of 30 grs. of the carbo- 
nate to 1 lb. of Tour. It is to be leavened and 
baked in the usual way of making bread. The 
loaves will bt found to rise well in the oven, to be 
more light and spongy, and also whiter than the 
usual way. It will also have an excellent taste, 
and will keep well. The use of magnesia in bread- 
making is well worthy the attention of the public, 
for if it improve musty flour, how much must it 
improve bread in general? The use of magnesia 
in bread, independent of its improving qualities, 
is as much superior to that of alum, as one sub- 
stance can be to another. 

^ simple method of preserving fruit. 
The fruit, being picked clean, and not too ripe, 
is to be put into bottles, which must be filled quite 
full. These bottles, having corks stuck lightly in 
them, are to be placed upright in a pan of water, 
which is to be heated until it feels hot to the finger, 
but not so hot as to scald. This degree of heat is 
to be kept up half an hour, and then the bottles, 
being taken out, one by one, are to be filled up to 
within an inch of the cork with boiling water, the 
cork fitted very tight, and the bottle laid on its 
side that the cork may be moist. To prevent fer- 
mentation and mould, the bottles are to be turned 
once or twice a week for a month or two, and once 
or twice a month afterwards. Fruit treated in this 
way will keep for two years or more. When used, 
some of the liquor, first poured off, serves to put 
into pies, &c. instead of water; and the remainder 
being boiled up with a little sugar, will make a 
rich and agreeable syrup. The fruit ought ''Ot to 
be cracked by the heat. Apricots, gooseberries, 
currants, raspberries, cherries, plums of all kinds, 
Siberian crabs, and rhubarb, may be preserved in 
this way. 

To cure and preserve butter. 
Reduce separately to a fine powder, in a dry 
mortar, 2 lbs. of the best, or whitest common salt, 
1 lb. of salt petre, and 1 lb. of lump sugar. Sift 
these ingredients, one above another, on a sheet of 
large paper, and then mix them well together 
Preserve the whole in a covered jar, placed in a 
dry situation. Wnen required to be used, 1 ounce 
of this composition is to be proportioned to every 
pound of butter, and well worked into the mass. 
Butter cured by the above composition has been 
kept three years, and was as sweet as at the first 
It requires to be kept three weeks or a month be- 
fore it is used, because earlier the salts are not 
sufficiently blended with it. It ought to be packed 
in wooden vessels, or in jars vitrified throughout, 
which do not require glazing, because during the 
decomposition of the salts, they corrode tha 
glazing, and the butter becomes rancid. 



408 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



Preparation of yeast. 

Mix two quarts of soft water with wheat flour, 
to the consistence of thick gruel; boil it gently for 
half an hour, and when almost cool, stir into it 
half a pound of sugar and four spoonsful of good 
yeast. Put the whole into a large jug or earthen 
vessel, with a narrow top, and place it before the 
fire, so that it may, by a moderate heat, ferment. 
The fermentation will throw up a thin liquor, 
"which pour off and throw away; keep the remain- 
der for use fin a cool place) in a bottle or jug 
tied over. Tne same quantity of this as of com- 
mon yeast will suffice to bake or brew with. Four 
spoonsful of this yeast will make a fresh quantity 
as before, and the stock may always be kept up by 
fermenting the new with the remainder of the for- 
mer quantity. 

To prevent cold feet at night. 

Draw off the stockings, just before undressing, 
and rub the ankles and feet with the hand as hard 
as can be borne for five or ten minutes. This will 
diffuse a pleasurable glow, and ttiose who do so, 
will never have to complain of cold feet in bed. 
Frequent washing, and rubbing them thoroughly 
dry, with a linen cloth or flannel, is useful for the 
same purpose. In removing from the feet the ac- 
cumulating dirt that obstructs the pores, we pro- 
mote health, by facilitating that perspiration which 
nature intended. 
To prevent the effects of drinking old liquors, in 

■warm -weather, or luhen heated b'j exercise. 

Avoid drinking water whilst warm, or drink 
only a small quantity at once, and let it remain a 
short time in the mouth before swallowing it, or, 
wasli the hands and face, and rinse the mouth with 
cold water before drinking. If these precautions 
have been neglected, and the disorder incident to 
drinking cold water, or eating ice when the body 
is heated, hath been produced, the first, and, in 
most instances, the only remedy to be administer- 
ed is sixty drops of laudanum in spirits and water, 
or warm drink of any kind. 

If this should fail of giving relief, the same 
quantity may be given twenty minutes afterwards. 

When laudanum cannot be obtained, rum and 
water, brandy and water, or even warm water alone, 
should be given. 

To remedy the effects of dram-drinking. 

Whoever makes the attempt to abandon spirit 
drinking, will find, from time to time, a rankling 
in the sromach, with a sensation of sinking, cold- 
ness, and inexpressible anxiety. This may be re- 
lieved by taking often a cupful of an infusion of 
cloves, made by steeping about an ounce of them 
in a pint of boiling water for six hours, and then 
straining off the liquor. In a state of permanent 
languor and debility, an ounce and a half of the 
cascarilla bark (being also first bruised in a mortar), 
should be added to the infusion. This mixture, 
taken in the quantity above specified, three times 
a day, will be found a useful strenglhener of the 
stomach and bowels, when they have been disor- 
dered by frequent excess and intoxication. 
■ To procure sleep. 

Pour a pint of boiling water on an ounce of Ep- 
som salts. Set it to cool and drink it on going to bed. 
If still disturbed, count from 1 to 1000. Sleep will 
generally come on before the person has reached 
500. 

Or, on going to bed, take a warm bath. 

Or, rub the body well with rough towels or with 
the flesh-brush for a quarter of an hour. If this 
does not procure sound sleep, take a tea-spoonful 
of magnesia in a wine-glass of water, with or with- 
out a few drops of hartshorn. • 

To relieve head-ache in bed. 

If the head is much disturbed, wash it with cold 



water, and discontinue the night-cap: but wear 
worsted stockings in bed. 

The air-bath. 

All persons, but especially children, ought to 
resort, at least for a short time every day, to this 
method of enjoying the salubrious influence of that 
universal agent. Dr Franklin informs us, that 
every morning, at day-break, he got out of bed and 
passed half an hour in his chamber, according to 
the season, in writing or reading, without any 
clothes; and this, he add.«, seems rather pleasant 
than otherwise. 

7'o detect oxalic acid. 

A paragraph has appeared in the newspapers, 
recommending blue sugar-loaf paper as a test of 
distinction between oxalic acid and Epsom salt, 
which have been too often mistaken for each other. 
It is reddened by the former, but not affecte-d by 
the latter. This is perfectly true; but a simpler 
test consists in wetting the tip of the finger, ap- 
plying it first to the supposed salt, and then to the 
tongue — if oxalic acid, it tastes very sour; if Ep- 
som salt, very bitter and saline. 

Another test is to place a drop on the tongue^ 
the acid will be more apparent, and fetor produced 
by the action of this trivial quantity; the patient 
will, accordingly, soon find occasion to quell its 
effects by the saliva or by water. 

To extinguish fire in chimiieys. 

Throw, immediately, upon the fire in the grate 
or range, a large forkful of wet horse litter, from 
tlie stable or dunghill. If this be properly man- 
aged the steam ascending from the litter will ex- 
tinguish the flame in the chimney in less than a 
minute. Care must be taken that the litter be not 
so moist as to put out the fire in the grate, and 
likewise that it be not too dry, for in that case it 
would break out into flame, and increase instead 
of lessening the evil. It is likewise necessary to 
add more, if required, so that the steam may con- 
tinue to ascend and the fire be entirely extinguish- 
ed. 

This method has not only been found successful 
when used in the narrow chimneys of towns, but 
also in the wide, spacious chimneys in the kitch- 
ens of country farmers. It is obvious, that any 
other materials may be used to produce a sufficient 
body of steam to fill the chimney, provided that 
thsy have such a quantity of moisture, as to pre- 
vent them bursting out into a flame. 

To extingidsh fires effectually. 

As soon as the fire engine is in readiness to work, 
stir into the water 7 or 8 pounds of pearl-ash, and 
continue to add the same quantity as occasion re- 
quires; taking care that it be directed against the 
timber or wainscot, &c. just beginning to burn, 
and not wasted against the brick work. Where 
time will admit, dissolve any quantity of pearl-ash 
in a vessel of water, and, as fast as it dissolves, 
(which will be in a few minutes) mix a pailful 
with the water, in the engine, pretty often. What- 
ever burning wood is played upon, will be extin- 
guished as if it, were dipped in water, and will not 
burn afresh. 

To render paper fire proof. 

Whether the paper be plain, written, printed on, 
or even marbled, stained, or painted, for hangings, 
dip it in a strong solution of alum water, and then 
thoroughly dry it. In this state it will be fire 
proof. This will be readily known by holding a 
slip, thus prepared, over a candle. Some paper 
requires to imbibe more of the solution than by a 
single immersion; in which case the dipping and 
drying must be repeated, till it becomes fully satu- 
rated. Neither the colour nor quality of the paper 
will be in the least affected by this process, but, ou 
the contrary, will be improved. 



MISCELLANEOUS. 



409 



Security against fires in manufactories, &c. 

This desirable end may be, in a great measure, 
answered, by the introduction of iron staircases. 
Common ones will be found to be as cheap as any 
kind of wood, and, where ornament is required, 
they may be made quite as elegant and handsome 
as those of the most costly materials. Joists, raf- 
ters, and beams, cast hollow of the same metal, 
may likewise be used, by which means fire cannot 
be easily communicated from one room to ano- 
ther. 

Plate-iron roofs have already been adopted, with 
more advantage, as to economy, than either tiling, 
slating, coppering, or leading. 

'J'o prevent hay -stacks from taking fire. 

Where there is any reason to fear that the hay 
■which is intended to be housed or stacked is not 
sufficiently dry, let a few handsful of common salt 
be scattered between each layer. This, by absorb- 
ing the humidity of the hay, not only prevents the 
fermentation, and consequent inflammation of it, 
but adds a taste to it, which stimulates the appe- 
tites of cattle, and preserves them from many dis- 
eases. 

Caution to females -whose clothes catch fire. 

Extraordinary instances sometimes occur of per- 
sons, whose clothes have by accident taken fire, 
escaping, by adopting means suggested at the mo- 
ment from extraordinary presence of mind. But 
rather than trust to what presents itself during im- 
pressions of extreme terror, to a mind totally un- 
furnished with any fixed mode of proceeding, it 
will perhaps be better to lay down certain rules, 
which, being strongly impriiltef' an the mind, will 
serve to direct to the most safe and beneficial line 
of conduct. 

1. To call for help, presents itself to the mind 
instinctively; but this should be done, if possible, 
by ringing the bell, &o. without opening the door 
of the apartment, as the external air, rushing in, 
will immediately increase the rapidity of the pro- 
gress of the flames. 

2. The first attempt should be to tear off that 
part of the clothing which is in flames, and, if in 
a parlour, to seize the water decanter, (which, for 
this reason alone, should be large, and kept always 
full), or any other vessel of water which may be 
in the room where the accident has happened. 

3. If unsuccessful in these instantaneous exer- 
tions for relief, the unfortunate sufferer sliould seat 
herself on the floor, remembering that in this pos- 
ture she will be better enabled to smother the 
flames of her lower garments, and that an upright 
posture will render the communication of the 
flames, to the upper part of her dress, more pro- 
bable. 

4. In this situation, should there be a hearth rug, 
or carpet, (which even for this use, in this moment 
of emergency, should form part of the furniture in 
every room) it will, from the materials of which 
it is composed, prove highly useful in extinguish- 
ing the flames, when laid over the burning clothes, 
or wrapped tight around them. 

5. It has been recommended that persons, whose 
clothes have caught fire, should immediately roll 
themselves up in the carpet; but this excellent 
method of extinguishing the flames is frequently 
quite impracticable, as it is customary to nail down 
carpets to the floor, and heavy tables or other fur- 
niture are often so placed on the carpet, as to hin- 
der it from being easily rolled up. 

6. A by-stander, or the first person who is pre- 
sent, should instantly pass the hand under all the 
clothes to the sufferer's shift, and, raising the whole 
together, should close them over the head, by 
which means the flame will indubitably be extin- 
guished. This may be effected in a few seconds, that i 

S B 



is, in the time that a person can stoop to the floor, 
and rise again. In many pases, no other method 
can be so ready, expeditious, and effectual. 

7. The sufferer will facilitate the business, and 
also prevent serious injury, by covering her face 
and bosom with her hands and arms. — Should it 
happen that no person is nigh to assist her, she 
may, in most cases, if she has the presence of 
mind, relieve herself, by throwing her clothes 
over her head, and rolling or laying upon them. 

8. The females and children in every family 
should be told, and shown, that flame always tends 
upwards — and that, consequently, while they re- 
main in an upright posture, with their clothes on 
fire, (it usually breaking out in the lower part of 
the dress), the flames, meeting additional fuel as 
they rise, become more powerful and vehement in 
proportion. 

A mode of preparing paper -which shall resist 
moisture. 

This process consists in plunging unsized paper 
once or twice into a clear solution of mastic in oil 
of turpentine, and drying it afterwards by a gentle 
heat. The paper thus prepared, without becom- 
ing transparent, has all the properties of writing 
paper, and may be used for that purpose. It is 
particularly recommended for passpoi'ts, for the 
books of porters, and other labourers, and indeed 
is desirable for a great variety of purposes for 
which paper that is capable of absorbing damp is 
very inconvenient. When laid by, it is perfectly 
secure from being injured by mouldiness or mil- 
dew, and is not likely to be destroyed by mice or 
insects. 

ji new and cheap mode of protecting -wall fruit 
trees. 

To counteract the bad effect caused to fruit by 
the change of weather we are so subject to, a num- 
ber of means have been recommended for covering 
the trees over in the season of blooming and set- 
ting of the fruit, such as woollen netting and bunt- 
ing (which is a kind of thin woollen stuff" made for 
flags of ships), but these, at the same time they 
protect the tree from the cold winds, require in 
fine weather to be removed to admit a free circu- 
lation, and also the sun's rays, which is attended 
with labour. The best mode of protecting trees, 
in such cases, is by affording it something that 
ma*; remain on without the labour of changing it, 
and a very useful and cheap covering of this kind 
I have used with great success in the long green 
moss found in woods (hypnum of several species.) 
This should be laid next the wall at the time the 
tree is nailed, and left its full length to wrap 
round the smaller branches, either by the motion 
of the wind, the wet, or the frost, either of which 
will operate more or less on it; in diy weather 
■when the sun shines it becomes relaxed and spread- 
ing, gives room for the sun and air to get to the 
bloom and the young fruit, but by moisture it be- 
comes in some degree compressed, and folds 
round the branches; it is also the most convenient 
covering, approaching in its nature to those opera- 
tions wifiich the leaves perform as a protect ''on to 
the fruit in a more adva'iced state: it is raor.^over 
very cheap, and very easy in its application. After 
the fruit is set and the season advances, it should 
be pulled out from the branches, as it otherwise 
affords shelter for insects and vermin when the. 
fruit is ripe. 

Plan for preserving' the "walls of new buildings 
from dampness. 
Spread over the whole thickness of the wall, at 
about two feet from the earth, a layer of pit coal, 
mingled with pitch or rosin, and powdered char- 
coal. This material, being soft, would, when 
loaded with the weight of the building, fill up aU 

3 K 



410 



UNI\TiRSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



tite vacuities, and prevent the access of moisture 
most efFeclually. 

On packmff up trees for sending to great dis- 
tances, and aftenoards planting t/tetn again. J3y 
William Salisbury. 

As I was so fortunate some years ago, as to dis- 
cover a mode of preserving such articles in close 
boxes for many months, in which mode they may 
be conveyed to almost any part of the world, I 
think it may be useful to give an account of it in 
this place. 

The sphagnum palustre (a species of moss) 
■which is the material I have used for this purpose, 
is found in great quantities on all peat bogs, grow- 
ing generally in the moist places. It should be 
perfectly fresh, and not left any time pulled up be- 
ibre it is used for the intended purpose. 

As 1 have endeavoured to discover what proper- 
ty this particular moss possesses when compared 
■with others generally used for packing plants, I 
shall remark, that, as its name implies, it is in a 
great measure an aquatic, and consequently not 
liable to injury from moisture, which it has the 
power of retaining in a wonderful degree, ■whilst 
all the species of hypnum cannot be prevented 
from rotting, unless they are kept perfectly dry; 
and although the mosses in general, when moist- 
ened with water, are useful to wrap round the 
roots of trees when packed up, yet they gradually 
undergo a decomposition, and consequently, if 
plants were completely enveloped therein, they 
would decay in lime from the same cause, which! 
have proved in many instances. 

The manner in which I have been accustomed to 
j»ack up plants is as follows: — When the moss is 
collected from the bogs in which it grows, it 
should be pressed, in order to drain out as much 
moisture as possible, and, having boxes prepared 
of sufficient size for the young trees (which may 
in some instances be shortened in their branches), 
I lay in the bottom of the box as much moss as 
will, when pressed with the foot, remain of the 
thickness of four inches. A layer of the plants 
should then be put thereon, observing that the 
shoots of each do not touch, and that the space of 
four inches be left round the sides; after this ano- 
ther layer of moss, about two inches thick, is 
placed, and then movt plants; and I thus proceed, 
till after the whole of the plants are pressed down 
as tight as possible, and the box filled within four 
•nches of the top, which space must be filled with 
the moss; the contents are then trodden down with 
he foot, and the box nailed closely up. 

"When trees are intended to be sent to distant 
countries, 1 should advise such to be selected as 
«re small and healthy, and, when arrived at their 
place of destination, they should be cut down quite 
close, evtn to the second or third eye from the 
graft, or in trees not grafted, as near the former 
year's wood as possible; and having prepared beds, 
according to the following mode, let them be 
planted therein, to serve as a nursery; for trees of 
every description suffer so much from removal, 
that unless the weather is particularly favourable, 
thev do not recover it f c c some time, even when 
only transplanted in their native climate I do not 
tiiink it advisable, therefore, to plant them at 
once, where they are liable to suffer from want of 
water, and other attentions necessary to their per- 
fect growth. 1 therefore recommend beds to be 
thus prepared for them; viz. On some level spot 
of ground, mark out beds five feet wide, and 
leave walks or alleys between them, of two feet 
wide, throwing a portion of the earth out of the 
beds upon the alleys, so as to leave them four 
inches higher than the beds. 
if the ground is shallow, and the under stratum 



not fit for the growth of trees, the whole should be 
removed, and the beds made good with a better 
soil. 

The advantage arising from planting trees in this 
way is, that the beds being; lower than the walks, 
the water ■which is poured on, for support of the 
trees, is prevented from running off. The plants 
are also less exposed to the influence of the wind?, 
and if a dry and hot season should immediately 
follow after they are planted, hoops, covered with 
mats, straw, or canvas, may be placed over them, 
to prevent the sun from burning the plants, and to 
hinder a too speedy evaporation of moisture. 

In warm climates, canvas cloth will answer best 
for these shades, to be fixed during the heat of the 
day, so as to prevent the surface of the mould from 
becoming dry, and if a little ■water be sprinkled 
upon the canvas, once or twice during the day, it 
■will keep it tight, and produce a moist atmosphere 
underneath, which will greatly facilitate the 
growth of the plants. 

These shades should be removed at the setting 
of the sun, and the plants then watered, ■when they 
will also receive the benefit of the dews during the 
night. In the morning the shades should be re- 
placed, and the plants thus protected till they can 
stand the open air, to which they should gradually 
be enured by i-emoving the shades daily more and 
more, till they can be wholly taken away. 
Potatoes. — Fourteen -ways of dressing them. 

General Instructions. — I'he vegetable kingdom 
affords no food more wholesome, more easily pre- 
pared, or less expensive than the potatoe; yet 
although this most useful vegetable is dressed 
almost every day, in almost evei-y family — for one 
plate of potatoes that comes to table as it should, 
ten are sooiled. 

Be careful in your choice of potatoes; no vege- 
table varies so much in colour, size, shape, consists 
ence,and flavour. 

Choose those of a large size, free from blem- 
ishes, and fresh, and buy them in the mould; they 
must not be wetted till they are cleaned to be 
cooked. Protect them from the air and frost, by 
laying them in heaps in a cellar, covering them 
with mats, or burying them in sand or in earth. 
The action of frost is most destructive; if it be 
considerable, the life of the vegetable is destroyed, 
and tiie potatoe speedily rots. 

1. Potatoes boiled. — Wash them, but ilo not 
pare or cut them unless they are very large; fill a 
saucepan half full of potatoes of equal size, (or 
make them so by dividing the larger ones) put to 
them as much cold water as will cover them about 
an inch: they are sooner boiled, and more savoury 
than when drowned in water; most boiled things 
are spoiled by having too little water, but potatoes 
are often spoiled by too much; they must mei-ely 
be covered, and a little allowed for waste in boil- 
ing, so that they may be just covered at the finish. 

Set them on a moderate fire till they boil, then 
take them oft', and set them by the side of the fire 
to simmer slowly till they are soft enough to ad- 
mit a fork — (place no dependence on tlie usual test 
of their skin cracking, which, if they are boiled 
fast, will happen to some potatoes when they are 
not half done, and the inside is quite hard) — then 
pour the water off, (if you let the potatoes remain 
in the water a moment after they are done enough, 
they will become waxy and wateiy), uncover the 
saucepan, and set it at such a distance from the fire 
as will secure it from burning; their superfluous 
moisture will evaporate, and the potatoes will be 
perfectly dry and mealy. 

You may afterwards place a napkin, folded up to 
the size of the saucepan's diameter, over the pola- 
toes, to keep them hot and mealy till wanted. 



MISCELLANEOUS. 



411 



Vhis method of managing potatoes is in every 
respect equal to steaming them; and they are 
dressed in half the time. 

There is such an infinite variety of sorts and 
sizes of potatoes, that it is impossible to say how 
long they will take doing; the best way is to try 
them wiih a fork. Moderate sized potatoes will 
generally be enough in 15 or 20 minutes. 

2. Coldpotatoes fried. — Put a bit of clean drip- 
ping into a frying-pan; when it is melted, slice in 
your potatoes with a little pepper and salt, put 
them on the fire, keep stirring them; when they 
are quite hot, they are i-eady. 

3. Potatoes boiled and broiled. — ^Dress your po- 
tatoes as before directed, and put them on a grid- 
iron over a very clear and brisk fire; turn them till 
they are brown all over, and send them up drj', 
with melted butter in a cup. 

4. Potatoes fried in slices or shavings.-^-Peel 
large potatoes, slice them about a quarter of an 
inch thick, or cut them in shavings round and 
round asyou would peel a lemon; dry them well in 
a clean cloth, and fry them in lard or dripping. 
Take care that your fat and frying-pan are quite 
clean; put it on a quick fire, watch it, and as soon 
as the brd boils, and is still, put in the slices of 
potatoes, and keep moving them till they are crisp; 
take them up and lay them to drain on a sieve; 
send them up with a very little salt sprinkled over 
them. 

5. Potatoes fried lohole. — When nearly hoiled 
enough, as directed in No. 1, put them into a stew- 
pan with a bit of butter, or some nice clean beef 
drippings; shake them about often (for fear of 
burning them) till they are brown and crisp: drain 
them from the fat. 

It will be an improvement to the three last 
receipts, previously to frying or broiling the po- 
tatoes, to jlour them and dip them in the yolk of an 
egg, and then roll them in the fine sifted bread 
crumbs. 

6. Potatoes mashed. — When your potatoes are 
thoroughly boiled, drain dr)% pick out every speck, 
&c. and while hot, rub inem through a cullender 
into a clean stewpan : to a pound of potatoes put 
about half an ounce of butter, and a tablespoonful 
of milk; do not make them too moist; mix them 
well together. 

7. Potatoes mashed -with onions. — Prepare some 
hoiled onions, by putting them through a sieve, 
and mix them with potatoes. In proportioning 
the onions to the potatoes, you will be guided by 
your wish to have more or less of their ilavour. 

8. Potatoes escalloped. — Mash potatoes as di- 
rected in No. 6, then butter some nice clean scol- 
lop shells, or patty pans; put in your potatoes, 
make them smooth at the top, cross a knife over 
them, strew a few fine bread crumbs on them, 
sprinkle them with a paste brush with a few drops 
of melted butter, and then set them in a Dutch 
oven; when they are browned on the top, take 
them carefully out of the shells, and brown the 
other side. 

9. Colcannon. — Boil potatoes and greens, or 
spinage, separately; mash the potatoes, squeeze 
the greens dry, chop them quite fine, and mix 
them with the potatoes with a little butler, pepper 
and salt; put it into a mould, greasing it well first; 
let it stand in a hot oven for ten minutes. 

10. Potatoes roasted. — Wash and dry your po- 
tatoes (all of a size), and put them in a tin Dutch 
oven, or cheese toaster; take care not to put them 
too near the fire, or they vill get burnt on the out- 
side before they are warmed through. 

Large potatoes will require two hours to roast 
them. 

11. Potatoes roasted under meat. — Half boil 



large potatoes, drain the water irom them, and put 
them into an earthen dish, or small tin pan, under 
meat that is roasting, and baste them with some 
of the dripping; when they are browned on one 
j side, turn them and brown the other; send them 
I up round the meat, or in a small dish. 

12. Potatoe balls. — Mix mashed potatoes with 
the yolk of an egg, roll them into balls, flour them, 
or egg and bread-crumb them, and fr)' ihem in 
clean drippings, or brown them in a Dutch oven. 

13. Potatoe snoio. — Tlie potatoes must be free 
from spots, and the whitest you can pick out; put 
them on in cold water; when they begin to crack, 
strain the water from them, and put them into a 
clean stewpan by the side of the fire till they are 
quite dry and fall to pieces; rub them through a 
wire sieve on the dish they are to be sent up in, 
and do not disturb them afterwards. 

14. Potatoepie. — Peel and slice your potatoes 
very thin, into a pie dish; between each layer of 
potatoes put a little chopped onion (three quarters 
of an ounce of onion is sufficient tor a pound oi 
potatoes), between each layer sprinkle a little pep- 
per and salt, put in a little water, and cut about 
two ounces of fresh butter into little bits, and lay 
them on the top, cover it close with puff paste. It 
will take about an hour and a half to bake it. The 
yolks of four eggs (boiled hard) may be added; 
and when baked, a table spoonful of good mush- 
room catchup poured in through a funnel. 

For allaying a troublesome cough and spitting of 
blood. 

Let a peck of the best malt be ground and put 
into an earthen pan; pour 6 quarts of boiling water 
over it, stir it well and cover it up close. Let it 
stand 28 hours; after which strain it throngii a clean 
coarse cloth; then put it into a preserving pan over 
a gentle fire, stirring it and skimming it all the 
while. Let it boil till it comes to a syrup that 
ropes, and is as thick as treacle. Put it into gal- 
ley pots, and when cold cover it up close. A tea- 
spoonful of this may be taken in a morning, fast- 
ing, and at night going to bed; and at other times 
when the cough is troublesome. 

General remedy for worms. 

The essential oil of petroleum, (naphtha,) has 
been employed for upwards of fifty years, in Italy, 
as a remedy for every species of worms lodged in 
the intestinal canal. The oil of turpentine, in its 
chemical properties, is similar to naphtha. Pe- 
troleum is become so abundant in Great Britain, 
in consequence of the general adoption of the gas- 
lights in the metropolis, (the production of it from 
the decomposition of coal being very consideraole,) 
that the oil of it, obtained b) distillation, is em- 
ployed to adulterate oil of turpentine. Asa reme- 
dy for worms it is unquestionably more effectual 
than the latter. 

Remedy for gout, &c. 

The following powder, taken three or four times 
a week, at bed-time, will effectually destroy the 
predisposition to gout in the constitution. It will 
also remove heartburn, and other symptoms of 
indigestion. Take of dried soda, powdered, ^ oz. 
rhubarb, 11 drachms, powder of cinnamon bark, 
1 ditto, powder of ginger, 1 do. nutmeg, grated, l 
do. columbo root, 2 do. Mix well together, and 
divide into 36 doses, one to be taken every night 
in a glass of water. 

JVew discovery in the preparation of flax. 

A French paper states that an inhabitant of Cha- 
teau Thierry has discovered a mode of givinj; to 
prepared hemp and flax the fineness, softness, and 
whiteness of cotton, by impregnating these sub- 
stances with oil, and then exposing them, during 
fifteen or twenty days, to the action of frost, be- 
tween two layers of snow. Bv this means all the 



412 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



inconvenience of the ordinary and tedions pro- 
cess of steeping them in stagnant water ■will be 
avoided. 

Preservation of plants from slug's. 
A gardener recommends for preserving cabbages 
and cauliflowers from slugs, the spreading well cut 
chaflP round the outside of the glasses. The slugs, 
in their attempts to reach the plants, find them- 
selves enveloped in the chaff, which prevents their 
moving, so that in the morning, hundreds of dis- 
abled slugs may be found round the outside of the 
glasses, and be destroyed. 

To improve dried figs. 
These fruits, when they are brought to table, 
are commonly covered with a scurf, composed of 
a mealy, sugary substance, very disagreeable to the 
teeth. A correspondent says that the way to get 
rid of the scurf, and render the figs as plump and 
clear skinned as when they are newly gathered 
from the tree, is, first to keep them in a cool and 
rather moist cellar for twenty-four hours before 
using; and, secondly, just before presenting them 
at table, to put them into a receiver, and exhaust 
the air. After remaining there two minutes, they 
should betaken out, and gently brushed, when they 
will be found perfectly plump and clear-skinned. 
Grease spots. 
The following method of removing grease and 
oil spots from silk and other articles, without in- 
jury to the colours, is given in the Journal des 
Connaissances Usuelles;— Take the yolk of an egg 
and put a little of it on tbe spot, then place over 
it a piece of white linen, and wet it with boiling 
water; rub the linen with the hand and repeat the 
process three or four times, at each time applying 
fresh boiling water: the linen is to be then remov- 
ed, and the part thus treated is to be washed with 
clean cold water. 

For botts in horses. 
Take of beeswax, mutton tallow, and loaf sugar, 
each eight ounces, put it into one quart of new 
milk, and warm it until all is melted. Then 
put it into a bottle, and give it just before the 
wax, &c. begins to harden. About two hours af- 
ter give physic. The effect is that the botts 
are discharged in large numbers, each piece of 
wax having from one to six or eight of them stick- 
ing to it, some by the head, but most by their legs 
or hooks. 

Durable polish for furniture. 
^ Take your table to the cabinet maker, and make 
him plane off the wax or varnish, then take some 
very fine sifted brick-dust, mix a little sweet oil 
with it, just enough to make it stick together like 
flour; rub this mixture on the wood with a pumice 
stone, until it is perfectly smooth; then add some 
spirit of wine or strong old whiskey, and continue 
rubbing until you have the required polish, which 
will be more beautiful and far more durable than 
varnish. Water may be thrown upon it without 
injury, and when by age the polish becomes dim, 
you can in five minutes restore its beauty by rub- 
bing it with a cloth dipped in boiled oil, or by 
using the brick-dust as at first. 

Gum arable cements. 
Gum arable, dissolved in as small a quantity of 
water as may be, and diluted to a proper consis- 
tence with gin, or any proof spirits, forms a very 
useful cement for all purposes where gum-water is 
commonly used, the spirit preserving it from be- 
coming putrescent. As the spirit evaporates, more 
sn^uld be added. It should be stirred and mixed 
together at the time of using. If plaster of Paris 
be added to gum-water, it makes a cement useful 
to ladies in filligree works. 

Gum-ammoniac added to the solution of gum- 
arahic in proof spirits very much ioiproves the 



cement. It answers very well for joining broken 
glass and ornamental articles of porcelain. 
Glue of the Laplanders. 
The bows of the Laplanders are composed of 
two pieces of wood, glued together; one of them 
of birch, which is flexible, and the other of fir of 
the marshes, which is stiff, in order that the bow 
, when bent may not break, and that when unbent 
it may not bend. When these two pieces of wood 
are bent, all the points of contact endeavour to 
disunite themselves, and to prevent this, the Lap- 
landers employ the following cement: — They take 
the skins of the largest perches, (it is probable 
eel-skins would answer the same purpose, ) and, 
having dried them, moisten them in cold water, 
until they are so soft that they may be freed from 
the scales, which they throw away. They then 
put four or five of these skins in a rein-deer's blad- 
der, or they wrap them up in the soft bark of the 
birch-tree, in such a manner that water cannot 
touch them, and place them, thus covered, in a 
pot of boiling water, with a stone above them tc 
keep them at the bottom. When they have boiled 
about an hour, they take them from the bladder, or 
bark, and they are then found to be soft and vis- 
cous. In this state they employ them for glueing 
together the two pieces of their bows, which they 
strongly compress and tie up until die glue is well 
dried. These pieces never afterwards separate. 
Cement that -mil stand t!ie action of boiling -water 
and steam. 
Take two ounces of sal-ammoniac, one ounce 
of flowers of sulphur, and IG ounces of cast-iron 
filings or borings. Mix all well together by rub- 
bing them in a mortar, and keep the powder dry. 
I When the cement is wanted for use, take one 
! part of the above powder, and twenty parts of clean 
iron borings or filings, and blend them intimately 
by grinding them in a mortar. Wet the compound 
with water, and, when brought to a convenient con- 
sistence, apply it to the joints with a wooden, or 
blunt iron, spatula. 

Anotlier cement qf the same kind. 
Take two parts of flowers of sulphur and one 
part of sal-ammoniac, and mix them together, with 
a little water, into a stiff paste. 

'lake also borings or turnings of cast-iron, in 
the state in which they are commonly found in 
works where boring and turning are carried on, 
viz. mixed with sand, and sift them finely to get 
rid of the grosser particles. 

When the cement is wanted for use, dissolve a 
portion ot the above paste in urine, or in water 
rendered slightly acidulous, and to the solution add 
a quantity of the sifted borings. This mixture, 
spread upon or between Ranches of iron pipes, or 
put into the interstjces of other parts of iron work, 
will, in a little time, become as hard as a stone. 
A method for taking an impression from a copper~ 
plate on plaster of Paris, with ink, as in common 
prints. 

Let the plate be filled with ink (made of the best 
ivory black, mixed with drying linseed oil, and 
ground very fine on a painter's stone) and the sur- 
face cleaned with the hand and whiting, as in com- 
mon copper-plate printing. Provide yourself with 
a board about half an inch thick, just the size of 
your plate; round the edge of this, wrap some stiff 
paper, raised half an inch above the surface on one 
side, and level on the other, in the form of a trough: 
into this put your plate, with the prepared side 
upwards; then mix your Paris plaster with water, 
to a proper consistency, and pour it on the plate; 
then lifting up the trough, let it fall flat upon the 
table again, to drive the bubbles of air from the 
plate through the surface of the plaster; after you 
have repeated this about 12 times, let it stand an 



MISCELL.\NEOUS. 



413 



hour. Attervrard s take the plate out of the trough, 
and the plaster, now hardened, from the plate, and 
you will have a very neat impression on the plas- 
ter, fit to put in a frame, and by far preferable to 
the best prints. 

To destroy crickets. 

Put Scotch snuff upon the holes where they 
come out. 

To prevent the creaking of a door. 

Rub a bit of soap on the hins^es. 
A simple barometer. 

Take a common pnial, and cut off the rim and 
part of the neck. This may be done by a piece of 
whip-cord, twisted round it, and pulled to and fro 
quickly, in a sawing position, by two persons; one 
of whon* holds the phial firmiy in his left hand. 
Heated in a few minutes by the friction of the 
string, and then dipped suddenly into cold water, 
the bottle will be decapitated more easily than by 
any other means. Let the phial be now nearly 
filled with common pump-water, and, applying the 
finger to its mouth, turn it quickly upside down: 
on removing the finger it will be found thatcaly a 
few drops will escape. Without cork, or stopper 
of any kind, the water will be retained within the 
bottle by the pressure of the external air: the 
■weight of air without the phial being greater than 
that of the small quantity of water within it. Now 
let a bit of tape be tied round the middle of the 
phial, to which the two ends of a string may be at- 
tached, so as to form a loop to hang on a nail: let 
it be thus suspended, in a perpendicular manner, 
with the mouth downwards; and this is the baro- 
meter. — When the weather is clear, and inclined 
to be so, the water will be level with the section of 
the neck, or rather elevated above it, and forming 
a concave surface. "When disposed to be wet, a 
drop will appear at the mouth, which will enlarge 
till it falls, and then another drop, -while the hu- 
midity of the atmosphere continues. 

To remove grease spots from paper. 

Scrape finely some pipe clay; the quantity will 
oe easily determined on making the experiment; 
on this lay the sheet or leaf, and cover the spot in 
like manner with the clay. Cover the whole with 
a sheet of paper, and apply, for a few seconds, a 
heated ironing box, or any substitute adopted by 
laundresses. On using Indian rubber, to remove 
the dust taken up by the grease, the paper will be 
found restored to its original whiteness and opa- 
city. 

Toath-ach and anti-rheumatic embrocation. 

Sal volatile, three parts; laudanum, one part. 
Mix, and rub the part in pain therewith frequent- 
ly. If the tooth which aches is hollow, drop 
some of this on a bit of cotton, and put it into the 
tooth; if the pain does not abate within an hour, 
take out the cotton, and put another piece in, 
changing it every hoar four or fiv3 times, till the 
pain ceases. 

In a general face-aeh, or sore throat, moisten a 
piece of flannel with it and put it to the part af- 
fected; rub any part afflicted with rheumatism 
night aad morning, and in the middle of the day. 



FIFTY-EIGHT ORIGINAL RECEIPTS IN 
COOKERY AND PASTRY, &e. 



1. Shrewsbury cake. 

Sift 1 lb. of sugar, some pounded cinnamon, 
and a nutmeg grated, into 3 lbs. of flour. Add a lit- 
tle rose water to 3 eggs well beaten, mix them with 
the flour, then pour in as much butter melted as 
will make it a good thickness to roll out. 

% Another. — ^l'ake21bs. of flour, lib. of sugar 
finely pounded; mix them together; (take Gi>t a 



quarter of a pound to roll them in;) ^ lb. of but- 
ter, 4 eggs, 4 spoonsful of cream, and 2 of rose 
water. Beat them well together, and mix them 
with the flour into a paste; roll them into thin 
cakes and bake them in a quick oven. 
3. Macaroons. 

Blanch 4 oz. of almonds, and pound them with 
4 spoonsful of orange flower water; beat the whites 
of 4 eggs to a froth, mix it with a pound of sugar, 
sift the almonds into a paste, and lay it in different 
cakes on paper to bake. 

4. Another. — Take 1 lb. of almonds, bianch them 
and throw them into cold water, then rub them dry 
with a cloth, and pound them in a mortar; moisten 
them with orange flower or rose water, lest they 
turn to oil; then take 1 lb. of fine loaf sugar, whisk 
the whites of 4 eggs; beat all well together, and 
shape them round with a spoon, on paper previ- 
ously buttered and sugared, to prevent their burn- 
ing; bake them in a gentle oven on tin plates. 
5. Savoy biscuit. 

Take of sugar the weight of 12 eggs, of flour the 
weight of 7 eggs; beat the yellows and whites of 12 
eggs separate; grate in the rind of 1 lemon; after 
being in the oven a few minutes, grate on some su- 
g^r. You may add peach water or lemon juice. 
6. Jumbles. 

Take IJ lbs. of flour, 1 lb. of sugar, | lb. of 
butter, 4 yolks and 2 whij.es of eggs, with a wine- 
glass of rose water, roll them thick with fine pow- 
dered sugar, and bake on tins. 

7. Almond cake. 

Take I lb. of almonds blanched and beaten, ten 
eggs well beaten, 1 lb. of sugar, and ^ lb. of 
flour, 

8. French rolls. 

Take a spoonful of lard or batter, 3 pints of 
flour, a cup of yeast, and as much milk as will 
work it up to the stiffness of bread; just before 
you take them from the oven, take a clean towel 
and wipe them over with milk. 
9. Waffles. 

To a quart of milk add 5 eggs, 1 J lbs. of flour, 
^ lb. of butter; beat them well together; when 
baked, sift sugar and cinnamon on liiem. If you 
make the wa^es before it is time to bake them, 
add a spoonful of yeast. 

10. Poundcake gingerbread. 

Take 6 eggs, 1 lb. of sugar, 1 pint of molasses, 
a full tea-cup of ginger, a tea-spoonful of pearlash 
dissolved, a little mace, nutmeg, 1 lb. of fresh but- 
ter creamed; after these ingredients are well 
mixed, beat la 2 lbs, of flour. Fruit is an im- 
provement, 

11, Gingercake. 

Take 3 lbs. of flour, 1 lb. of sugar, 1 lb. of but 
ter rubbed in very fine, 2 oz. of ginger, a little 
nutmeg, a pint of molasses, a gill of cream; make 
them warm together, and bake them in a slack 
oven. 

12. Gingerbread. 

Take 1^ lbs. of flour, g: lb . of sugar, J lb. of butter, 
well rubbed together; 1 oz. of ginger, a few cara 
way seeds, 24 allspice, 12 cloves, a little cinnamon, 
1 pint of molasses. Knead well. 

13. Short gingerbread. 

Take 1 lb. sugar, ^ lb. butter, 5 eggs, a little 
cream and pearlash, 1| lb. flour, rolled fiard. To 
be baked on tin sheets, marked ready to cut. 

14. Calves''-feet jelly. 

Take 4 calves' feet well boiled, § lb. of sugar, 1 
pint of wine, 2 letnons, the whites of 4 eggs, and 
shells; boil all together about five minutes, then 
pour through a flaAuel bag to strain, 

15. Apple pudding. 

Take half the whites and all the yolks of 10 eggs, 
4)eat tlicm very light, add a pint of apples, aftet 

2 1-2 



414 



UNIVERSAL UECEIPT BOOK. 



they are stewed and put through a sifter, stir in a 
J lb. of butter, the grated peel of 2 large lemons, 
and juice of one, sugar to taste. Mace and nut- 
meg are very good substitule3 for lemon juice. 
16. Baked apftle pudding. 

Pare and quarter 4 large apples, boil them ten- 
der with the rind of a lemon in so little water that 
when done no water may remain, beat them quite 
fine in a mortar, add the crumb of a small roll, ^ 
lb. of butter melted, the yolks of 5 and whites of 
3 eggs, juice of ^ a lemon, sugar to your taste; 
beat all well together, and bake it in a paste. 
17. Lemon blancmange. 

Pour a pint of hot water upon I oz. of isinglass, 
when it is dissolved add the juice of 3 lemons, the 
peel of one grated, si\ yolks of eggs beaten, half a 
pint of Lisbon wine, sweeten it to your taste, let it 
boil, then strain it, and put it in your moulds. 
18. Mrs Hoffman's blancmange. 

Take 2 oz. of isinglass, 1 quart of new milk, 
strain it ar.d sweeten to your taste, aOd rose or 
peach water, let it be only milk warm when you 
put it in the moulds; if you wish it particularly 
nice, blanch ^ lb. almonds, beat them very fine in 
a mortar and stir in before you boil or strain. 
19. Orange pudding. 

Take 1 lb. of butter creamed, 1 lb. of sugar, 10 
eggs, the juice of 2. oranges; boil the peel, then 
pound it fine, and mix it with the juice; add the 
juics of one lemon, a wine glass of brandy, wine, 
and rose water. 

20. Homminy pudding. 

Take the homminy and pick the beans from it, 
warm it and mash through a sifter until you get a 
pint, add ^ lb. of butter, melted, stir a tea-cup of 
cream into it, and let it cool; then add half the 
whites of six eggs; sugar, nutmeg, mace, and wine, 
to your taste. Bake it. 

21 . Cocoa nut pudding. 

To 1 large cocoa nut grated add the whites of 
8 eggs, a \ lb. of sugar, \ lb. of butter, 2 spoonfuls 
of rose water. Bake it in a paste. 
22. Rice pudding. 

Take ^ lb. of rice, tied in a cloth, boiled well, 
and then put through a sieve; add a qvrart of milk, 
and keep stirring until it thickens; then add 6 
ounces of buUer stirred into the rice, 12 yolks and 
6 whites of eggs well beaten; mace, nutmeg, wine, 
and sugar, to your taste. This quantity will make 
2 large puddings. If you choose you may add 
currants or any other fruit. 

23. Another. — Boil the rice very soft, dry from 
water, stir in a little butter, a pint of milk, and 3 
eggs well beaten, sweeten to your taste, pour it in 
vour dish, sprinkle flour on the top, put little bits 
vT butter here and there on the top. Bake slowly. 

24. ,inothei\ highly approved. — Take 2 spoonsful 
of raw rice, 1 quart of new milk, a bit of butter 
the size of an. egg, a little cinnamon; sweeten to 
your taste, put the pan in a slack oven after the 
bread is taken out; eat when cold'. 

25. Another'. — Put in a deep pan ^ lb. of rice wash- , 
ed and picked, 2 ounces of butter, 4 ounces of 
sugar, a tew allsp'ce pounded, and 2 quarts of milk. 
Bake in a slow oven. 

26. Another. — Sweeten rice in milk, strain it off, 
and having pared and cored apples, put the rice 
around them, tying each in a cloth with a bit of 
lemon peel, a clove, or cinnamon. Boil them 
well. 

27. Ground rice or sago pttdcUng. 

Boil a large spoonful of it heaped, in a pint of 

new milk, with lemon peel and cinnamon; when 

cold, add sugar, nutmeg, and 2 eggs, well beaten. 

28. Sweet potato pudding. 

Take 5 eggs, i^ a lb. of butter, a ^ of a lb, of 

sugar, add as much sweet potato as will thicken it, 



the jalce and grated peel of cue lemon, beat it yaj 
light. 

29. Potato pud(Kng. 

Take half a pound of boiled potatoes, beat well in 
a mortar with half a pound each of sugar and 
butter, the yolks of 10 eggs, the whites of 4, well 
beaten, 2 Naples biscuit grated, and half a pint of 
cream; mix them well with the other ingredients, 
and pour it on a thin paste. Bake for half an hour. 

SO. Another. — Take 8 ounces of boiled potatoes, 
2 ounces of butter, 2 eggs, a quarter of a pint of 
cream, 1 spoonful of white wine, a little salt, the 
juice and rind of a lemon, beat the whole to a 
froth, sugar to taste, — a paste or not as you like. If 
you want it richer, put more butter, sweetmeats, 
and almonds, with another egg. 

31. Citron jmading. 

Take ^ lb. of sugar, ^ lb. of butter creamed^ 
the yolks of 9 eggs, a wine glass of brandy, -J lb. 
of citron chopped very fine. 

32. Cream pudding. 

To 3 eggs beaten very light, stir in a pint and » 
half of fiour, salt to your taste, mix a little milk, 
then put in 6 ounces of sugar; just before you pat 
it in the oven add a pint of thick cream. Bake 
for J of an hour. 

33. Custard pudding. 

Take a pint of milk, 3- spoonsful of flour, 6 eggs,, 
and salt to your taste. Sugar. 

34. Wedding cake. 

Take 3 lbs. flour, 3 lbs. butter, 3 lbs. sugar, 2 
doz. eggs, 3 lbs. raisins, 6 lbs. currants, 1 lb. citron, 
1 oz. mace, 1 oz. cinnamon, 1 oz. nutmegs, i^ oz. 
cloves, J pint brandy. Beat the butter with your 
hand to cream, then beat the sugar into the butter, 
add the froth of the yolks of the eggs after being 
well beaten, then the froth of the whites; mix 
fruit, spice, ai>d flour together; then add them in 
with beating. Five or six hours baking will ano 
swer for a large loaf. 

35. Election cake. 

Take 5 lbs. flour, 2 lbs. sugar, f lbs. butter, 5 
eggs, yeast, 1 pint of milk, and spice as you please. 
36. Indian pudding. 

Boil one spoonful of fine Indian flour well, then 
add 1 pint of milk, and let it all boil; when cool, 
beat in 2 eggs. Sweeten and season. 
37. Baked Indian pudding. 

Take 8 ounces of mush, 6 ounces of butter, & 
ounces of sugar, the yolks of 6 eggs, and the white 
of 1; mix the butter in the mush when hot, beat 
the eggs and sugar together; add to the mush, when 
cool, nutmeg, mace, and wine to your taste; bake. 
38. Apple custard. 

Take apples, pared, cored, and slightly stewed, 
sufilcient to cover the dish, 6 eggs, 1 quart of milkf 
spice to your taste. Bake it one-third of an hour. 
39. Black cake. 

Take l| lbs. of flour, 1^ lbs. of brown sugar, 1 
lb. of butter, IJ lbs. of raisins, 1^ lbs. of currants, 
^ lb. of lard, 4 eggs, 1 pint of milk, 1 nutmeg, 
and mace, 1 tea-spoonful of pearl-ash. Wine and 
brandy. 

40. Tomatas catsups 

Cut up the tomatas, and between every layer 
sprinkle a layer of salt, let them stand a few hours 
before you boil them, which do very well, then 
strain them through a cullender on some horsu 
radish, onions or garlick, mustard seed, beaten 
ginger, pepper and mace; cover it close, let it 
stand a day or two, then bottle and seal it for 
use. 

41. Puff paste. 

Take 1| lb. of flour, and 1 lb. of butter; divide 
the butter into 4 equal parts; mix ^th- part of the 
butter with fths of the flour; and work the remain- 
der of the flour and butter in. 



MISCELLANEOUS. 



4\b 



42. Sponge cake. 

Take 14 eggs, with their weight in sugar, and 
half their weight in flour, the juice and peel of a le- 
mon, and one nutmeg; beat the yolks and whites 
separately until stiff, add the sugar to the yolks, 
then a-'d the whites. One rainute before the oven 
is ready, dredge in the flour. Bake in a quick 
oven half an hour. 

43. Lemon cake. 

Take 12 eggs, 1| lb. sugar, 4 lb. flour; grate 
the outside of two lemons, with the inside of one; 
or add 1 glass of wine, with 3 teaspoonsful of the 
essence oi lemon. 

44. Sugar cake. 

Take 1 lb. flour, | lb. sugar, ^ lb. butter, 5 
eggs. Mix and drop them on tin, and put sugar 
sanded on them, just as you put them into the oven, 
or frost them. 

45. Cup cake. 

Take 3 cups of s'igar, I cup of butter, 2 tea- 
spoonsful of pearlash, 3 eggs, 5 cups of flour; all 
beaten together with as much spice as you please. 

46. Cider cake. 

Take 2 lbs. flour, 1 lb. sugar, ^ lb. butter, 1 pint 
cider, cloves and cinnamon, with or without fruit, 
2 teaspoonsful of pearlash. 

47. WIvipa. 

Take 2 cups of cream, 1 of white wine, grate 
in the skin of a lemon, sweeten to your taste, the 
whites of 3 eggs; then whip it with a whisk, take 
off the froth, as it rises pour the froth into your 
jelly glasses. 

48. To make venison pasty. 

You must bone your venison and season it with 
2 02. of pepper, 1 nutmeg, mixed with salt; then 
mince 3 lbs. of beef suet; put it in the pan: it will 
take 6 hours baking. 

49. To dress a turtle. 

Take a turtle of 8 lbs. cut off its head, cut it 
open, scald the iins and calipee or under shell, skin 
them; then take out the guts, cut them open and 
cleanse them well; take great care not to break the 
gall. Then take for the soup the guts and the 
fins, with a knuckle of veal, some sweet herbs, 
onions, and cayenne pepper. Season the rest of 
the meat with the same seasoning, which put in 
the calipash or upper shell, and calipee, with 
some force meat balls, and bake it. When it is 
naked, take the yolks of three eggs, to a turtle of 
eight pounds, beat them well, pour in a little 
wine, take some of the soup, and brew it together 
very well, throw in a lump of batter rolled in 
flour, and put it into the calipash and calipee. 
50. To make -wajles the Dutch -way. 

Take a quart of new milk, a penny loaf grated 
veiy fine, 10 eggs beaten with \ lb. of sweet but- 
ter melted, a few cloves beaten, a little salt, fine 
flour enough to make a batter like a pancake, and 
4 spoonsful of yeast. Mix them together, and put 
them in an earthen pot covered, before the fire, to 
rise for an hour; having your wafer iron ready 
heated and buttered on both sides, put in the batter 
to bake; when done serve them hot, with sugar 
grated over them and cinnamon. 

51. A good gravy, to be kept for any use. 

Burn 1 oz. of butter in the fiying pan, but take 
care to do it at such a distance from the fire, that 
as you strew in the flour to the butter, it may 
brown but not blacken; put to it 2 lbs. coarse lean 
beef, 1 quart water, ^ pint wine red or white, 3 
anchovies, 2 eschalots, some whole pepper, cloves 
and mace, 3 or 4 mushrooms op as many piokl&d 
walnuts; let it stew gently 1 hour, then strain it; 
it Will keep some time, and is proper for any sa- 
V0U17 dibh. 

52. Federal cake, or bachelor's loaf. 

In a plateful of flour put a piece of butter not 



larger than a walnut, 2 eggs, 1 spoonful yeast; mix 
it either with milk or water, as you please, make 
it into a very stiff batter, so stiff' you can scarce 
stir it with a spoon. Put it to rise in the same 
dish you wish to bake it in. It will take several 
hours to rise. 

53. Albany cake. 
Take 1^ lbs. of flour, 1 lb. of sugar, J^ lb. of 
butter, a table-spoonful of lard, 2 table-s'poonsful 
of rose water, a little cinnamon, 1 egg, a tea-spoon- 
ful of pot-ash dissolved in a tea-cup of cream. 
Cut them out and bake them on tins. 

54. Black cake that -will kenp far a year. 
Take 1 lb. of sugar, the same of "butter and flour, 
10 eggs; beat them well together, and when light 
add two wine glasses of brandy, nutmeg, mace, 
and cloves, 2 lbs. of raisins, and the same quantity 
of currants. It wi41 take some hours to bake. A 
good deal of spice is necessary. 
55. I'o dress calf's head in imitation of turtle. 
Take the calf's head when well soaked and 
washed, open it and boil it with the entrails until 
it is quite done; take part of the liver out when 
about half done for forced meat balls. When it is 
all done strain the liquor, then cut off small pieces 
of the head in imitation of turtle; the small indif- 
ferent remainder chop up with the entrails; put in 
spice to your taste, a little savoury herbs rubbed 
very fine, and a few little onions; some very small 
dumplings; season the force meat balls with spice 
and herbs to your taste, put a little parsley in them, 
and fry them in lard, and put them in your soup 
when you seud it to table. 

56, MqcJc turtle. 
Take a fine calf's head, cut the meat clean from 
the bones, then boil the bones in a quart of water 
until the liquor is reduced to a pint, then season 
it with cayenne, nutmeg, and mace; pour into the 
gravy a pint of Madeira wine, a little parsley 
thyme. 

57. Beef alamode. 
Choose a thick piece of flank of beef; cut some 
fat bacon in long slices, let ea'ih slice be near an 
inch thick, dip them m vinegar; then take sea- 
soning of salt and pepper and cloves mixed with 
parsley, thyme, aud cnarjoram: make holes in the 
meat to put in the larding: when you have put it 
in rub it over with the seasoning and bind it up 
with tape and set it in a pot over the fire; three or 
four onions must be fried brown and put to the 
beef, with two or three carrots and a Itead of celery. 
Add a small quantity of water, and let it simmer 
10 or 12 hours, or until it is extremely tender, 
turning the meat twice; put the gravy into a pan, 
remove from it the fat; keep the beef covered; 
then put them together, add a glass of wine, re- 
move the tape and send it to table. 
58. Oyster pie. 
Take 100 oysters and clean them well from the 
shell, then put them in a kettle with their own 
liquor to plump them, tlien put tliem in a dish, 
j and season them with 12 cloves and 3 blades of 
] mace pounded fine, pepper to your taste; then 
; lay crust round the edge of your dish, take the 
1 yolks of 4 eggs boiled hard, with a handful of 
I grated bread, sprinkle this over the lop with a few 
i pieces of butter; fill (he dish nearly full; cover the 
I pie ovei' with a puff paste. 



On the hoimig and stropping of a razor. 
Let the hone be seldom, and but sparingly re- 
sorted to; aud never, uidcss by frequent and re- 
peated stropping, the edge of the razor is entirely 
destroyed use the best pale oil, aud be careful to 
preserve the hoiio deau, and free from dust Pre- 



416 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



viously to the operation of shaying^, it will be found 
of service, particularly to those who have a strong 
oeard, and a tender skin, to wash the face well 
with soap and water; aiid the more time is spent 
in lathering, and moistening the beard, the easier 
will the ^^rocess of sliaving become. Dip the razor 
in hot water, before applying it to the face; use the 
blade nearly flat, always taking care to give it a 
cutting, instead of a scraping direction. Strop 
the razor immediately after using it, for the pur- 
pose of effectually removing any moisture that may 
remain upon the edge; and be careful not to em^ 
ploy a common strop, as the composition with 
which they are covered is invariably of a very in- 
ferior quality, and injurious to a razor. The strop 
should always be of the best manufacture, and 
M'hen the composition is worn off, it will be found 
particularly useful to rub it over, lightly, with a 
little clean tallow, and then put upon it the top 
part of the snuff of a candle, which, being a fine 
powder, will admirably supply the place of the best 
composition ever used for the purpose. Another 
excellent mode of renovating a razor-strop, is by 
rubbing it well with pewter, and impregnating the 
leather with the finest metallic particles. 
Pumpkin pudding. 

Take half a pound of stewed pumpkin, three 
eggs, a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, or a 
pint of cream, a quarter of a pound of powdered 
white sugar, half a glass of wine and brandy mixed, 
half a glass of rose-water, a tea-spoonful of mixed 
spice, nutmeg, mace and cinnamon. Stew some 
pumpkin with as little water as possible. Drain 
it in a cullender, and press it till dry. When coid, 
weigh half a pound, and pass it through a sieve. 
Prepare the spice. Stir together the sugar, and 
butter or cream, till they are perfectly light. Add 
to them, gradually, the spice and liquor. Beat 
three eggs very light, and stir them into the butter 
and sugar alternately with the pumpkin. Cover a 
soup-plate with puff-paste, and put in the mixture. 
Bake it in a moderate oven about half an hour. 
Grate sugar over it, when cool. 

Instead of the butter, you may boil a pint of milk 
or cream, and when cold, stir into it in turn the 
sugar, eggs, and pumpkin. 

^ cure for sore backs of horses. 

The best method of curing sore backs, is to dis- 
solve half an ounce of blue vitriol in a pint of wa- 
ter, and dab the injured parts with it four or five 
times a day. 

.An infallible lotion for bloius, bruises and sprains 
m ho-ses. 

Take cf spirit of wine, eight ounces; dissolve 
one ounce of camphor first, in the spirits of wine, 
then add one ounce of oil of turpentine, one ounce 
of spirit of sal ammoniac, oil of origanum half an 
ounce, and one large table spoonful of liquid lau- 
danum. It mast be well rubbed in with the hand, 
for full a quarter of an hour, every time it is used; 
which must be four times each day. You will be 
astonished at its efficacy when you try it. 
Chicken salad. 

Take two large cold fowls, either boiled or 
roasted, the yolks of nine hard-boiled eggs, half a 
pint of sweet oil, half a pint of vinegar, a gill of 
mixed mustard, a small tea-spoonful of cayenne 
pepper, a small tea-spoonful of salt, two large 
heads, or four small ones, of fine celery. Cut the 
meat of the fowls from the bones, in pieces not 
exceeding an inch in size. Cut the white part of 
the celery into pieces about an inch long. Mix 
the chicken and celery well together. Cover them 
and set them away. With the back of a wooden 
spoon, mash the yolks of eggs till they are a per- 
fectly smooth paste. Mis them with the oil, vine- 



gar, mustard, cayenne, and salt. Stir them for a 
long time, till they are thoroughly mixed and 
quite smooth. The longer they are stirred the 
better. When this dressing is sufficiently mixed, 
cover it, and set it away. Five minutes before the 
salad is to be eaten pour the dressing over the 
chicken and celery, and mix all well together. If 
the dressing is put on long before it is wanted, the 
salad will be tough and hard. This salad is very 
excellent made of cold turkey instead of chicken. 
How to know -whether a horse has a strong ana 

good eye, or a -weak eye and likely to go blind. 

People in general turn a horse's head to a bright 
light to examine his eyes. You can know very 
little, by this method, what sort of an eye the 
horse has, unless it be a very defective one. You 
must examine the eye first, when the horse stands 
with his head to the manger. Look carefully at, 
the pupil of the eye in a horse; it is of an oblong 
form: carry the size of the pupil in your mind, 
then turn the horse about, bring him to a bright 
light, and if, in the bright light, the pupil of the 
eye contracts, and appears much smaller than it 
was in the darker light, then you may be sure the 
horse has a strong, good eye; but, provided the 
pupil remains nearly of the same size as it appeared 
in the darker light, the horse has a weak eye; 
therefore have nothing to do with him. There are 
contracting and dilating muscles in the eye, which 
will plainly show you in what state the eye is, 
whether it be a strong or a weak one. 
ffow to catch -wood-pigeons. 

Wood-pigeons are very easily caught in bard 
weather, particularly when snow is on the ground. 
You have but to sweep the snow on one side, for 
about a dozen yards long, and about three feet 
broad. Lay about twenty small eel-hooks, fasten- 
ed by a peg into the ground, with a small bean on 
each: be sure you put tne point of the hook only, 
through the top of the bean, and the barb standing 
quite out, on the side; otherwise, if the hook bo 
totally buried in the bean, when the bird struggles, 
he will pull the hook out of his throat. 

I think, as good a way as any, is to punch two 
or three holes in horse-beans, with an iron bod- 
kin, and then boil them in some common gin: 
many will be so drunk that they cannot fly up; 
others will perch on the adjacent trees; watch 
them, and you will see them tumble down. 
How to catch wild-fowl. 

If yoH have a large pond, or lake, frequented by 
wild-fowl; in the shallow water, about one foot 
deep, where you observe them feed, lay a few rab- 
bit-traps, with a few beans on the bridge of the 
trap, under the water. This is a sure method of 
catching them. Where the water is about two feet 
deep, put a stick in, about one foot above the wa- 
ter; cut a slit at the top of the stick; tie a strong 
piece of packthread round a brick-bat, or to a 
large stone; let the string, after having tied it 
round the stone, be about a foot longer; to the 
other end fasten a small eel-hook, baited with a 
piece of bullock's lights, sheep's paunch, or a 
horse-bean; then, about three or four inches from 
the brick-bat, fasten a stick, nearly as big as your 
little finger, and about four inches long, tying the 
string, with a single knot, exactly to the centre of 
the stick; then place that part of the string, which 
is between the brick-bat and the short stick, into 
the notch at the top of the long stick, which is 
stuck into the bottom of the pond. The short 
stick will prevent the weight of the brick-bat from 
drawing the string through the notch, and the 
hook will hang a few inches from the water, and 
the brick-bat hang fast by the notch in the toji of 
the stick. When the water-fowl takes the baited 



MISCELLANEOUS. 



417 



hook, he pulls the stick and brick-bat down, and 
the brick-bat pulls him under water and drowns 
him. 

Of the best breed of dogs for shooting game. 
" The breed of dogs which 1 prefer, beyond all 
others, are those which are bred between a setter 
and a pointer; but not bred from those setters 
which have no natural point in them; for I hav§ no 
idea of shooting to a dog which does not stop at 
birds the very first day he is taken into the field. 
I have not had a setter, which was broke by force, 
for above twenty years; nor ever will have one. 
Leave them at home only one week; for the next 
two days you must turn to dog-breaking, and not 
to shooting. I prefer those between a pointer and 
a setter, which take after the setter; for, generally 
speaking, they have better feet, wluch is a great 
point in a dog: for certain, they have more hair on 
their feet, which is a great preservative to the 
foot, if it be kept clean. I never kept a cocking 
spaniel in my life: I always shoot to pointers, even 
in the strongest covers, with bells round their 
necks. I know, for certain, you will not find so 
much game; but then what you find, you are sure 
to shoot at. Here is the great benefit of shooting 
to pointers: you may shoot every day, in a wood, 
and not drive the game away. But if you turn 
cocking spaniels into a wood, which quest, when 
they come on the foot of a pheasant, in a very few 
days you will drive every pheasant out of the 
wood. A Newfoundland dog, tutored to keep be- 
hind you in the fields, and not to go above a dozen 
or twenty yards from you in a wood, is of wonder- 
ful utility, in retrieving and bringing wounded 
game. I have had se\eral that were uncommonly 
useful. " 

Sportsman^s beef. 
Take a fine round of beef, f jur ounces of salt- 
petre, three-quarters of an ounce of allspice; rub 
it well on the beef, and let it stand twenty-four 
hours; then rub in as much common salt as will 
salt it. Lay it by twelve days, turning it every 
day; then put it into a pan, such as large pies are 
baked in, with three or four pounds of beef-suet, 
some under, some over. Cover it with a thick 
crust, and bake it for six hours. It will keep for 
two months; and most excellent it is. 

Infallible cure for the scurvy. 

Take two parts of flower of brimstone, and one 
part of cream of tartar; mix them well together: 
take four large tea-spoonsful, in milk, every morn- 
ing, the first thing you do, when you get up, be- 
fore your breakfast: milk is only the vehicle to 
take it in; you may take it in any thing else. 
To be taken by any one suspected of going into a 
decline. 

Half a pint of milk, warm from the cow, made 
lusciously sweet with old conserve of roses, and 
two table-spoonsful of the very best rum. Take it 
the first thing in the morning. 

Remember that old persons, who wish to try 
this, must first boil the milk, and let it get tolera- 
bly cool; for all milk, when it has once got cold, 
if not boiled will purge. 

Jin efficacious gargle for a sore throat. 

Take a large handful of red sage, (not the com- 
mon garden sage,) boil it in one quart of the best 
white-wine vinegar, to near a pint, tlien sweeten 
it well w.ith honey. You may, if you please, add 
two small wine-glasses, of port wine. 

To make a sick horse drink freely. 

A horse has a very sweet tooth, — when he be 
unwell and wont drink, mix molasses or coarse 
brown sugar in the water: he will then drink freely. 
To preroent boots leaking. 

Take boiled linseed oil, one pint; beeswax, one 
juuce; burgundy pitch, half au ounce; spirit of 
3 C 



turpentine, two ounces: melt the three first in an 
earthen-pot, and then add the turpentine. Lay it 
on when the leather is tiry, and warmed before tht 
fire. This ointment must be well rubbed in be- 
fore the fire, and when the leather is tolerably dry. 
How to know the age of a dog until lie be six years 
old. 

A dog has a very visible mark in his teeth, as 
well as a horse, which mark does not disappear 
totally until he be very near, or full, six years old. 
Look to the four front teeth, both in the upper and 
lower jaw, but particularly to the teeth in the up- 
per jaw; for, in those four front teeth, the mark 
remains longest: at twelve months old, you will 
observe every one of the four front teeth, both in 
the upper and under jaw, jagged and uneven, 
nearly in the form of a flower de luce, but not 
quite so pointed, at the edges of the jags, as a 
flower de luce is. As the dog advances in age, 
these marks will wear away, gradually decrease, 
and grow smoother and less jagged every year. 
Between three and four years old, these marks will 
be full half worn down; and when you observe all 
the four front teeth, both in the upper and lower 
jaw, quite worn smooth and even, and not in the 
least jagged, then you may conclude that the dog 
is nearly, if not full six years old. When those 
marks are worn quite flat and even, and those teeth 
quite level and even, you can no longer judge the 
age of a dog. Many huntsmen and game keep- 
ers ignorantly look at the side and eye teeth of a 
dog; there are many dogs, not two years old, 
which have had the canker in the mouth, with 
hardly one sound torth in their heads. 
Easy method of preserving meat in the country, 

for a few days, without salt and without ice. 

Put the meat into the water running from a 
spring. It will sink — examine it daily — when it 
begins to rise from the bottom it must be used; it 
will be found perfectly sound and tender, and may 
be boiled or roasted. Meat may be preserved in 
this manner three or four days in summer time, 
free from taint. The outside will appear somewhat 
whitened, but the flavour is not injured. It would 
be advisable to have a box or tub, with a cover, 
into and out of which the water shall have free 
passage, which may be put either inside or outside 
of the spring-house. 
^ method of extracting the juice of the sugar tnO' 

pie, for the making of sugar, without injuring 

the tree. 

It has been customary to cut a gash in the tree, 
from which the saccharine liquor flows, or to bore 
a hole, and put in a reed, and, when the liquor. 
ceases to flow, plugging up the hole. Both these 
methods are injurious, and tend to destroy the tree. 
In the latter case, the tree rots round the plug to 
some distance within. The following method is 
proposed in lieu of these, and has been success- 
fully practised in Kentucky. At the proper sea- 
son for the running of the liquor, open the ground, 
and select a tender root, about the size of one or 
two fingers; cut oiF the end, and raise the root 
sufiiciently out of the ground to turn the cut end 
into the receiver. It will emit the liquor from the 
wound as freely as by either of the other methods. 
When it ceases to flow, buiy the root again, and 
the tree will not be hurft 

To restore tainted beef. 

"In the last fall, I procured an acquaintance of 
mine in the country to put up a barrel of fat beef 
for my family's use during the winter. The bar- 
rel of beef was sent to me agreeable to contract; 
but before 1 had used one quarter part of it, I ob- 
served it tainted, and so much so as to smell quite 
offensive. The beef being very fat .ind fine, I was 
loath to throw it away. 1 made the following ex- 



418 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



periment: I procured a half bushel of charcoal, 
and a<'ter taking out the beef and throwing away 
the oPensive pickle, I re-packed it in the barrel, 
laying the pieces of charcoal between the pieces; 
and making a new pickle, and adding a little salt- 
petre, 1 covered the beef, and in about six days 
found it as sweet and good as it was when first put 
up. " 

To clear houses, barns, &c. of rats and mice. 

Gather the plant dog's tongue, the cynoglossum 
officinale of Linnaus, which grows abundantly in 
every field; at the period when the sap is in its full 
vigour, bruise it with a hammer, or otherwise, and 
lay it in the house, barn, or granary, infested by 
rats or mice, and those troublesome animals will 
immediately shift their quarters. 

To preserve peach trees. 

The following mode of securing peach trees 
from injury, and promoting their bearing fruit 
plentifully, has been practised with uninterrupted 
success for many years. 

As soon as the blossoms appear in the spring, 
fine ashes are scattered over them and the young 
leaves, by means of a tin box, perfora-ed with 
holes, and fixed on the end of a ])ole. The pro- 
cess is eaiJy performed, and is in the power of 
any one. It should be done, if possible, in a 
moist day, and when the wind in still. 
^n effectual preruentive against flies settling itpon, 
or biting animals. 

Boil 1 oz. of coloquintida half an hour in 3 pints 
of water, dip a sponge in the liquid, and rub the 
animal over the parts liable to be attacked. 
Ready mode oj mending ci'ac'cs in stoves, pipes, 
and iron ovens, as practised in Germany. 

When a crack is discovered in a stove, through 
which the fire or smoke penetrates, the aperture 
may be completely closed in a moment with a 
composition consisting of wood ashes and common 
salt, made up into paste with a little water, and 
plastered over the crack. The good effect is 
equally certain, whether the stove, &c. be cold or 
hot. 

Bruised oats for horses. ' 

An individual wiio has tried feeding horses on 
whole and on bruised oats, states, that a horse fed 
on bruised oats will look and work as well as 
one fed on double the same quantity of oats not 
•ruised. 

Preparing quills. 

M. Scholz, of Vienna, has discovered a new 
process for rendering quills more firm and durable 
than those of Hamburg. The following are the 
means employed: — He suspends, in a copper, a 
certain nuniber of quills, and fills it with water, 
so as just to touch their nibs. He then closes the 
copper, 80 as to render it steam tight; here the 
quills expei'ience considerable heat and moisture 
from the steam, by which the fat they contain is 
melted out. After about four hours' treatment in 
this manner, they attain the proper degree of 
softness and transparency. The next day cut the 
nibs, and draw out the pith, then rub them with a 
piece of cloth, and also expose them to a moderate 
heat. The following day they will have acquired 
the hardness of bone without being brittle, and 
will be as transparent as glass. 
JVew mode of preparing paper, for the use of 
draughtsmen, &c. 

Reduce to a powder, and dissolve quickly in a 
glazed earthen vessel, containing cold water, some 
gum tragacanth, having been well worked with a 
wooden spatula, to free it from lumps. There 
must be a sufficient quantity of watei', to give to 
whis diluted gum the consistence of a jelly. Pa- 
per, and soiDe sorts of stuffs, upon which, if this 



composition be smoothly applied, with a pencil 
or a brush, and dried before a gentle fire, will re- 
ceive either water or oil colours; in Hsing water 
colours, they must be mixed with a solution of the 
above gum. This cloth or paper, so prepared, 
will take any colour excei)t ink. When it is in- 
tended to retouch any particular part of the draw- 
ing, it should be washed with a sponge, or clean 
linen, or a pencil, (containing some of the above- 
mentioned liquid;) if the part is only small, it 
will then rise quickly, and appear as if repaint- 
ed. 

A composition to render -wood fire-proof. 
Dr Fuchs, member of the Academy of Science 
at Munich, is said to have discovered a composi- 
tion, by which he renders wood incombustible; the 
composition is made of granulated earth, and an 
alkali. To obtain this composition, the inventor 
says, you must dissolve some moist, gravelly earth, 
which has been previously well washed, and 
cleared from any heterogeneous matter, in a solu- 
tion of caustic alkali. This mixture has the pro- 
perty of noP becoming decomposed by fire or water. 
When spread upon wood, it forms a vitreous coat, 
and is proof against the two elements. The build- 
ing committee of the royal theatre, have twice 
publicly tried the efficacy of the composition on 
two small buildings, of six or eight feet in length, 
and of a proportionate height; the one was covered 
with the composition, and the other built in the 
usual manner. The fire was put equally in the 
two buildings; the one which was no", covered with 
the composition, was consumed, whilst the other 
remained perfect, and entire. The cost of this 
process is very insignificant, compared to its great 
utility, being about two francs three centimes per 
100 square feet. 

The royal theatre at Munich has undergone this 
process, having about 400,000 square feet; the ex- 
pense of which was about 4000 or .5000 francs. 
Luting used in propagating fruit trees, by graft- 
ing them. 
The best luting wherewithal to cover the newly 
grafted scions, is composed of equal quantities of 
train oil and rosin, prepared in the following man- 
ner: — First, melt the rosin in an earthen vessel, 
then pour in the oil, and mix them well; to be ap- 
plied when cold, with a painter's brush. The 
composition is used in the north-west part of 
France with general success. It has this advan- 
tage, that it never cracks, nor admits rain or wind 
to the grafts, which is the usual cause of their fail- 
ing. It is more expeditiously put on, than the 
common clay covering, and looks much neater; 
but what renders it more useful, is, that the grafts 
covered with the composition, seldom fail. Scions 
laid under earth, or steeped in water, for a few 
days, grow better than those taken fresh from the 
parent tree. Grafting cherry or pear trees should 
not be delayed later than St Patrick's day. 
A cure for poisoned sheep. 
It is a fact well known to farmers, that sheep are 
frequently poisoned by eating common laurel, 
(calmia latifolia.) When you suspect this to be 
the case, give the sick animal a strong tea made 
of mountain dittany, (cunila mariana,) moderately 
warm. This simple remedy has been known to 
recover sheep in the last stages of the disorder. 

It would be well for farmers whose cattle are in 
danger of oeing poisoned, to procure and dry a 
quantity of dittany in the summer, and keep it by 
them through the winter, as it is in the latter sea- 
son they are most likely to be affected. It may 
also be useful in other disorders incident to cattle 
— so much for the cure — as a prevention, destroy 
all the laurel on your farms. 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



419 



APPENDIX. 

ZNSTRVOTXONS IN THE ART OF OARVXlfO. 



Persons, unaccustomed to serving at table, will, 
with the help of these cuts, and the instructions 
accompanying them, soon be able to carve well: if, 
at the same time, they will, as occasion offers, 
take notice, how a good carver proceeds, when a 
joint or fowl is before hsm. 

We will begin with those joints, &c. that are 
simple and t.isy to be carved, and afterwards pro- 
ceed to such as are more complicate and difficult. 



Leg of 7mUloh. 




I the line a, b, upwards, towards e, but many prefer 
the drier part, which is about the shank or 
knuckles; this part is by far the coarser, but, as I 
said, some prefer it, and call it the venison part, 
though it is less like venison than any other part 
of the joint. The fat of this joint lies chiefly on 
the rJdge e, e, and is to be cut in the direction e,f. 
In a leg of mutton, there is but one bone readily 
to be got at, and that a small one; this is the cramp 
bone, by some called the gentleman's bone, and is 
to be cut out, by taking hold of the shank-bone with 
the left hand, and, with a knife, cutting down to the 
thigh-bone at the point d, then passing the knife 
under the cramp-bone, in the direction d, c, it 
may easily be cut out. 

^ shoulder of mutton. — JVb. 1. 



This cut represents a leg ovjigot of boiled mut- 
ton; it should be served up in the disli as it lies, 
lying upon its back; but when roasted, the under 
side, as here represented by the letter d, should lie 
uppermost in the dish, as in a ham (which see); 
and in this case, as it will be necessary occasionally 
to turn it, so as to get readily at the under side, 
and cut it in the direction of a, b, the shank, 
which is here broken and bent for the convenience 
of putting it into a less pot or vessel to boil it, is 
not broken or bent in a roasted joint, of course, 
should be wound round (after it is taken off the 
spit), with half a sheet of writing paper, and so 
sent up to table, that a person carrying it may take 
hold of it, without greasing his hands. Accord- 
ingly, when he wishes to cut it on the under side, 
it being too heavy a joint to be easily turned with 
a fork, the csrver is to take hold of the shank with 
his left hand, and he will thus be able to turn it 
readily, so as to cut it where he pleases with bis 
right. 

A leg of wether mutton, which is by far the best 
flavoured, may be readily known when bought, by 
the kernel, or little round lump of fat, just above 
the letters a, e. 

When a lee; of mutton is first cut, the person 
carving should turn the joint towards him, as it 
here lies, the shank to the left hand; then holding 
it steady with his fork, he should cut in deep on 
the fleshy part, in the hollow of the thigh, quite to 
the bone, in the direction a, b. Thus will he cut 
right through the kernel of fat, called the pope's 
eye, which many are fond of The most juicy 
<»ir(s of the leg, are in the thick part of it, from 




Figure 1 represents a shoulder of mutton, 
which is sometimes saited and ooiled by fanciful 
people; but customarily served up roasted, and 
laid in a dish, with the back or upper side upper 
most, as here represented. 

When not over-roasted it is a joint very full of 
gravy, lauch more so than a leg, and, as such, by 
many prefer-ed, and particularly as having many 
very good, delicate, and savoury parts in it. 

The shank-bone should be wound round with 
writing paper, as pointed out in the leg, that the 
person carving may take hold of it, to turn it as he 
wishes. Now, when it is first cut, it should be in 
the hollow part of it, in the direction a, b, and the 
knife should be passed deep to the bone. The 
gravy then runs fast into the dish, and the part cut 
opens wide enougn to take many slices from it 
readily. 

The best fat, that which is full of kernels and 
best flavoured, lies on the outer edge, and is to be 
cut out in thin slices in the direction e, f. If many 
are at table, and the hollow part, cut in the line 
a, b, is all eaten, some very good and delicate 
slices may be cut out on each side of the ridge of 
the blade-bone, in the direction c, d. The line 
betwtten these two dotted lines is that in the di'> 
rection of which the edge or ridge of the blade« 
bone lies, and cannot be cut across. 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



A shoulder of mutton. — JVb. 2. 




On the under side of the shoulder, as represent- 
ed in figure 2, there are two parts, very full of 
eravy, and such as many persons prefer to those of 
the upper side. One is a deep cut, in the direc- 
tion g. A, accompanied with fat, and the other all 
lean, in a line from i to k. The parts about the 
shank, are coarse and dry, as about the knuckle in 
the le^; but yet some prefer this dry part, as being 
less rich or luscious, and of course less apt to cloy. 

A shoulder of mutton over-roasted is spoiled. 

vl leg of pork. 
Whether boiled or roasted, is sent up to table as 
& leg of mutton roasted, and cut up in the same 
manner; of course I shall refer you to whf>t I have 
said on that joint, only that the close firm flesh 
about the knuckle is by many reckoned the best, 
which is not the case in a leg of mutton. 

A shoulder of pork 
Is never cut or sent to table as such, but the shank- 
bone, with some little meat annexed, is often serv- 
ed up boiled, and called a spring, and is very good 
eating. 

Edge bone of beef. 
d 




In carving it, as the outside suffers '\v its flavour 
from the water in which it is boiled, the dish 
should be turned towards the carver, as it is here 
represented; and a thick slice should be first cut 
off, the whole length of the joint, beginning at a, 
and cutting it all the way even and through the 
whole surface, from a to b. 

The soft fat, that resera'ules marrow, lies on the 
back, below the letter d, and the firm fat is to be 
cut in thin horizontal slices at the point c; but as 
some persons prefer the soft fat and other's the firm, 
each should be asked what he likes. 

The upper part, as here shown, is certainly the 
handsomest, fullest of gravy, most tender, and is 
encircled with fat; but there £.re still some, who 
prefer a slice on the under side, which is quite 
lean. But as it is a heavy joint and very trouble- 
some to turn, that person cannot have mucli good 
manners who requests it. 

The skewer that keeps the meat together when 
boiling, is here shown at a. It should be drawn 
i»ut> before the dish is sei-ved up to table; or, if it 



be necessary to leave a skewer m, that skewo 
should be a silver one. 

A knuckle of veal. 




A knuckle of veal is always boiled, ant is ad- 
mired for the fat, sinewy tendons about the knuc- 
kle, which, if boiled tender, are much esteemed, 
A lean knuckle is not worth the dressing. 

You cannot cut a handsome slice, but in the di- 
rection a, b. The most delicate fat lies about the 
part d, and if cut in the line d, c, you will divide 
two bones, between which lies plenty of fine mar- 
rowy fat. 

The several bones about the knuckle may be 
readily separated at the joints, and, as they are co- 
vered with tendons, a bone may be given to those 
who like it. 

A breast of veal, roasted. 




This is the best end of abreast of veal, vith the 
sweet-bread lying on it, and, when carved, should 
be first cut down quite through, in the first line on 
the left, d, c; it should next be cut across, in the 
line a, c; from c to the last a, on the left, quite 
through divides the gristles from the rib-bones; 
this done, to those who like fat and gristle, the 
thick or gristly part should be cut into pieces as 
wanted, in the lines a, b. When a breast of veal 
is cut into pieces and stewed, these gristles are 
very tender and eatable. To such persons as pre- 
fer a bone, a rib should be cut or separated from 
the rest, in the line d, c, and with a part of the 
breast, a slice of the sweet-bread, e, cut across the 
middle. 



APPENDIX. 



491 



8. saddle of mutton. 




This is by some called a chine of mutton, the 
saddle being the two necks, but as the two ntcks 
are now seldom sent to table together, they call the 
two loins a saddle. 

A saddle of mutton is a genteel and handsome 
dish; it consists of the two loins together, the 
back>bone running down the middle to the tail. 
Of course, when it is to be csfrved, you must cut a 
long slice in either of the fleshy parts, on the side 
of the back-bone, in the direction a, b. 

Tlie^e is seldom any great length of the tail left 
on, but if it is sent up with the tail, many are fond 
of it, and it may readily be divided into several 
pieces, by cutting between the joints of the tail, 
vhich are about the distance of one inch apart. 

A spare-rib of pork. 




A spare-rib of pork is carved, by cutting^ out a 
slice from the fleshy p-trt, in the line a, o. This 
joint will afford many good cuts in this direction, 
with as much fat as people like to eat of such 
strong meat. When the fleshy part is cut away, a 
bone may be easily separated from the next to it, 
in the line d, b, c, disjointing it at c. 

Half a cafs head boilt d. 




There are many delicate bits about a calf's head, 
and when young, perfectly white, fat, and well 
dressed, half a head is a genteel dish, if a small 
one. 

When first cut, it should be quite along the 
cheek bone, in the fleshy part, in the direction c, 
f), where many handsome slices may be cut. In 
the fleshy part, at the end of the jaw bone, lies 
pai-t of the throat sweet-bread, which may be cut 



into, in the line c, d, and which is esteemed the 
best part in the head. Many like the eye, which 
is to be cut from its socket a, by forcing the point 
of a carving knife down to the bottom on one edge 
of the socket, and cutting quite round, keening the 
point of the knife slanting towards the miildle, so 
as to separate the meat from the bone. This piece 
is seldom divided, but if you wish to oblige two 
persons with it, it may be cut into two parts. The 
palate is also reckoned by some a delicate morsel: 
this is found on the under side of the roof of the 
mouth; it is a crinkled, white thick skin, and may 
be easily separated from the bone by the knife, by 
lifting the head up with your left hand. 

There is also some good meat to be met with oh 
the under side, covering the under jaw, and some 
nice, gristly fat to be pared off" about the ear, ff. 

There i»re scarce any bones here to be separated: 
but one may be cut off, at the neck, in the liney, 
e, but this is a coarse part. 

There is a tooth in the upper jaw, the last tooth 
behind, which, having several cells, and being full 
of jelly, is called the sweet tooth. Its delicacy is 
more in the name than in any thing else. It is a 
double tooth, lies firm in its socket, at the further 
end, but if the calf was a young one, may readily 
be taken out with the point of a knife. 

Jtham 




A ham Is cut two ways, across in the line b, c, 
or, with the point of the carving-knife, in the cir- 
cular line in the middle, t"iking out a small piece 
as at a, and cutting thin slices in a circular direc- 
tion, thus enlarging it by degrees. This last 
method of cuffing it, is to preserve the gravy and 
keep it moist, which is thus prevented from run- 
ning out 

A haunch of venison. 




In carving a haunch of venison, first cut it aerou 
down to the bone, in the line d, c, a, then turn die 

2 L 



422 



UNI\'ERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



dish with the end a towards you, put in the point 
of the knife at c, and cut it down as deep as you 
can in the direction c, b; thus cut, you may take 
out as many slices as you please, on the right or 
left. As the fat lies deeper on the left, between b, 
and a, to those who are fond of fat, as most veni- 
son eaters are, the best flavoured and fattest slices 
will be found on the left of the line c, b, supposing 
the end a turned towards you. Slices of venison 
should not be cut thick, nor too thin, and plenty of 
gra»y should be given with them. 



An ox tongue. 




A tongue is to be cut across, in the line a, b, and 
a slic3 taken from thence. The most tender and 
juicy slices will be about the middle, or between 
the line a, b, and the root. Towards the tip, the 
meat is closer and dryer. For the fat, and a ker- 
nel with that fat, cut off a slice of the root on the 
right of the letter b, at the bottom next the dish. 
A tongue is g'^nerally eaten with white meat, veal, 
chicken, or turkey; and to those whom you serve 
•with the latter, you should give of the former. 

A brisket of beef. 




This is a part always boiled, and is to be cut in 
the direction a, b, quite down to the bone, but 
never help any one to the outside slice, which 
should be taken off pretty thick. The fat out with 
this slice is a firm gristly fat, but a softer fat will 
be found underneath, for those who prefer it. 

A buttock of beef 
Is always boiled, and requires no print to point 
out how it should be carved. A thick slice should 
be cut off all round the buttock, that your friends 
may be hel,)ed to the juicy and prime part of it. 
This cut into, thin slices may be cat from the top; 
but as it is a dish that is frequently brought to the 
table cold a second day, it should always be cut 
handsome and even. ■ To those to whom a slice all 
round would be too much, a third of the round 
may be given, with a thin slice of fat. On one 
side there is a part whiter than ordinary, by some 
called the white muscle. A buttock is generally 
divided, and this white part sold separate as a deli- 
cacy, but it is by no means so, the meat being 
close and dry, whereas the darker coloured parts, 
though apparently of a coarser grain, are of a looser 
texture, more tender, fuller of gravy, and better 



flavoured; and men ot distinguisl ed palates evet 
prefer them. 

A. piece of a sirloin oj beef. 




Whether the whole sirloin, or part of it only, 
be sent to table, is immaterial, with respect to 
carving it. The figure here represents part of the 
joint only, the whole being too large for families 
in general. It is drawn as standing up in the dish, 
in order to show the inside or under part; but 
when sent to table, it is always laid down, so as 
that the part described by the letter c, lies close 
on the dish. The part c, d, then lies uppermost, 
and the line a, b, underneath. 

The meat on the upper side of the ribs is firmer, 
and of a closer texture, than the fleshy part under- 
neath, which is by far the most tender; of course, 
some prefer one part, and some another. 

To thvse who like the upper side, and rather 
would not have the first cut or outside slice, that 
outside slice should be first cut off, quite down to 
the bone, in the direction c, d. Plenty of soft," 
marrowy fat will be found underneath the ribs. If - 
a person wishes to have a slice underneath, the 
joint must be turned up, by taking' hold of the end 
of the ribs with the left hand, and raising it, until 
it is in the position as here represented. One slice 
or more may now be cut in the direction of the 
line a, b, passing the knife down to the bone. The 
slices, whether on the upper or under side, should 
be cut thin, but not too much so. 

A fore'guarter of lamb, roasted. 




Before any one is helped to a part of this joint, 
tlie shoulder should be separated from the breast, 
or what is by some called the coast, by passing the 
knife under, in the direction c, g, d, e. The shoul- 
der being thus removed, a lemon or orange should 
be squeezed upon the part, and then sprinkled 
with salt where the shoulder joined it, and th« 



APPENDrX. 



423 



•noulder should be laid on it again. The gristly 
part should next be separated from the ribs, in the 
line f, d. It is now in readiness to be divided 
among the company. The ribs are generally most 
esteemed, and one or two may be separated from 
the rost, in the line a, b; or, to those wlio prefer 
the gristly part, a piece or two, or more, may be 
cut off in the lines h, i, &c. Though all parts of 
young larab are nice, the shoulder of a fore-quar- 
ter is the least thought of; it is not so rich. 

If the fore-quarter is that of a grass lamb and 
large, the shoulder should be put into another dish 
when taken off; and it is carved as a shoulder of 
mutton, which see. 

^ JiUet of veal, 
Which is the thigh part, similar to a buttock of 
beef, is brought to table always in the same form, 
but roasted. The outside slice of the fillet is by 
many thought a delicacy, as being most savoury; 
but it does not follow, that every one likes it; each 
person should therefore be asked, what part they 
prefer. If net the outside, cut oifa thia slice, and 
the second cut will be white meat, but cut it even 
and close to the bone. A fillet of veal is generally 
stuffed under the skirt or flap with a savoury pud- 
ding, caned forced-meat. Tliis is to be cut deep 
, into, in a line with the surface of the fillet, and a 
thin slice taken cut; this, with a little fat cut from 
the skirt, should be given to each person present. 

A roasted pig. 




A roasted pig is seldom sent to table whole, the 
head is cut off by the cook, and the body slit down 
the back and served up as here represented; and 
the dish garnished with the chaps and ears. 

Before any one is helped, the shoulder should 
be separated from the carcass, by passing the knife 
under it, in the circular direction: and the leg sepa- 
rated in the same manner, in the dotted lines c, d, 
e. The most del'cate part in the whole pig, is the 
triangular piece of the neck, which may be cut off 
in the line f, g. The next best parts are the ribs, 
whicli may be divided in the line a, b, &c. Indeed, 
the bones of a pig of three weekb old are little 
less than gristle, and may be easily cut through; 
next to these, are pieces cut from the leg and 
shoulder. Some are fond of an ear, and others of 
a chap, and those persons may readily be gratified. 

A Rabbit. 




This is a rabbit, as trussed and sent up to table. 
After separating the legs, the shoulders or wings 
(which many prefer), are to be cut off in the cir- 
jular dotted line, e^f^g. The back is divided into 



two or three parts, in the lines t, Jt, withoat di- 
viding it from the belly, but cutting it in the line 
•?» ^* . '^^ \i^&^ may be given to any person who 
likes it, the ears being removed before the rabbit 
is served up. 

Ji Goose, 




Like a turkey, is seldom quite dissected, unless 
the company is large; but when it is, the following 
is the method Turn the neck towards you, and 
cut two or three long slices, on each side the 
breast, in the lines a, b, quite to the bone. Cut 
these slices irom the bone, which done, proceed to 
take off the leg, by turning the goose up on one 
side, putting the fork through the small end of the 
leg-bone, pressing it close to the body, which, 
when the knife is entered at d, raises the joint from 
the body. The knife is then to be passed under 
the leg in the direction d, e. If the leg hangs to 
the carcass at the joint e, turn it back witii the 
fork, and it will readily separate if the goose is 
young; in old geese, it will require some strength 
to separate it. When the leg is off, proceed to 
take off the wing, by passing the fork through the 
small end of the pinion, pressing it close to the 
body, and entering the knife at the notch e, and 
passing it under the wing, in the dii-ection c, d. 
It is a nice thing to hit this notch c, as it is not so 
visible in the bird as in the figure. If the knife is 
put into the notch above it, yon cut upon the neck 
bone, aud not on the wing joint. A little practice 
will soon leaeh the difference; and if the goose is 
young the trouble is not great, but very much 
otherwise if the bird is an old one. 

When the leg and wing on one side are taken 
off, take them off on the other side; cut off the 
apron in the line /, e, g, a.id then take off the 
merry-thought in the line i, h. The neck-bones 
are next to be separated as in a fowl, and all other 
parts divided as there directed, to which 1 reier you. 

The best parts of a goose are in the following 
order: the breast slices; the fleshy part of the 
wing, which may be divided from the pinion; the 
thigh-boiie, which may be easily divided in the 
joint from the leg-b;)ne, or drumstick, as it is cal- 
led; the pinion, and next the sidt^boues. 

A green goose 
Is cut up in the same way, but the most delicate 
part is the breast and the gristle, at the lower part 
of it. 

A pheasant. 




4-24 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



The pheasant, as here represented, is skewered 
and trussed for the spit, with the head tucked un- 
der one of the wings; but when sent to table, the 
skewers are withdrawn. 

I In carving this bird, the fork should be fixed in 
the breast, in two dots there marked. You have 
then the command of the fowl, and can turn it as 
you please; slice down the breast in the lines a, b, 
and then proceed to take ofFthelej^ on the outside, 
in the direction d, e, or in the circular dotted line, 
b, dy as see in the figme "a boiled fowl," next 
column. Then cut off the wing on the same side in 
the line c, d, in the figure above, and a, h, b, in the 
figoire at the bottom ofthis column, which is lying on 
one side, with its back towards us. Having separated 
the leg and wing on one side, do the same on the 
other, and then cut off", or separate from the breast- 
bone on each side of the breast, the parts you be- 
fore sliced or cut down. In taking off the wing, 
be attentive to cut it in the notch a, as seen in 
the print of the fowl; for if you cut too near the 
neck as at g, you will find the neck-bone interfere. 
The wing is to be separated from the neck-bone. 
Next cut off" the merry-thought in the iinef, g, by 
passing the knife under it towards the neck. The 

' remaining parts are to be cut up, as is described in 
tlie fowl, which see. 

^ partridge. 




The partridge, like the pheasant, is here trussed 
for the spit; when served up, the skewers are with- 
drawn. It is cut up like a fowl (which see), the 
wings taken off in the lines a, b, and the merry- 
thought in the line c, d. Of a partridge the prime 
parts are the white ones, viz. the wings, breast, 
merrj-^-thought. The wing is thought the best, the 
tip being reckoned the most delicate morsel of the 
whole. 



A fowl. 



C^^ 




The fowl is here represented as lying on its side, 
with one of the legs, a wing, and a neck-bone taken 
off. It is cut up the same way, whether it be 
roasted or boiled. A roasted fowl is sent to table, 
trussed like a pheasant, (which see,) except that 
instead of the head being tucked under one of t'he 



wings, it is, in a fowl, cut off before it is dressed. 
A boiled fowl is represented below, the leg-bones 
of which are bent inwards and tucked in within the 
belly; but the skewers are withdrawn, prior to its 
being sent to the table. In order to cut up a fowl, 
it is best to take it on your plate. 

Having shown how to take off the legs, wings, 
and merry-thought, when speaking of the phea- 
sant; it remains only to show how the otiier parts 
are divided; k, is the wing cut off, i, the leg. 
When the leg, wing, and merry-thougbt are re- 
moved, the next thing is to cut oft" the neck-bones 
described at /. This is done by putting in the 
knife at g, and passing it under the long broad part 
of the bone in the line j', h, then lifting it up and 
breaking off the end of the shorter part of the 
bone which cleaves to the breast-bone. All parts 
being thus separated from the carcass, divide the 
breast from the back, by cutting through the ten- 
der-ribs on each side, from the neck quite down 
to the vent or tail. Then lay the back upwards on 
your plate, fix your fork under the rump, and iSy- 
ing the edge of your knife in the line b, e, c, and 
pressing it down, lift up the tail or lower part of 
the back, and it will readily divide with the help 
of your knife, in the line b, e, c. This done, lay 
the croup or lower part of the back u;>wards in 
your plate, with the rump from you, and with your 
knife cut off the side-bones, by forcing the knife ' 
through the rump-bone, in the lines e,/, and the 
wliole fowl is completely carved. 

A boiled fowl. 




Of a fowl, the prime parts are the wings, breast, 
and merry-thought, and next to these the neck- 
bones and side-bones; the legs are rattter coarse 
of a boiled fowl the legs are rather more tender, 
but of a chicken every part is juicy and good, and 
next to the breast, the legs are certainly the fullest 
of gravy and the sweetest; and, as the thigh-bones 
are very tender and easily broken with the teeth, 
the gristles and marrow render them a delicacy. 
Of (he leg of a fowl the thigh is abundantly the 
best, and when given to any one of your company 
it should be separated from the drum-stick at the 
joint i, (see the cut, viz. " a fowl," preceding co- 
lumn) which is easily done, if the knife is intro- 
duced underneath, in the hollow, and the tliigh- 
bone turned back from the leg-bone. 

A turkey, 
Roasted or boiled, is trussed and sent up to ta- 
ble like a fowl, and cut up in every respect like a 
pheasant. The best parts are the white ones, the 
breast, wings and neck-bones. Merry-thought it 
has none; the neck is taken awa)% and the hollow 
part under the breast stuffed with forced-meat, 
which is to be cut in thin slices in the direction 
from the rump to the neck, and a slice given with 
each piece of turkey. It is customary not to cut 
up more than the breast of this bird, and, if any 
more is wanted, to take oft" one of the wings. 



APPENDIX. 



425 



No. 1. 



Aptgeon. 



No. 2. 




This is a representation of the bacK and breast 
of a pigeon. No. 1, the back; No. 2, the breast. 
It is sometimes cut up as a chicken, but as the 
croup or lower part with the thigh is most pre- 
ferred, and as a pigeon is a small bird, and half a 
one not too much to serve at once, it is seldom 
carved now, otherwise than by fixing the fork at 
the point a, entering the knife just before it, and 
dividing the pigeon into two, cutting away in the 
lines a, b, anH a, c. No. 1; at the same time bring- 
ing the knife out at the back in the direction a, o, 
and a, c. No. 2. 

A cod's head. 




Fish, in general, requires very little carving; the 
middle or thickest part of the fish is gwierally es- 
teemed the best, except in a carp, the most deli- 
cate part of which is the palate. This is seldom, 
nowever, taken out, but the whole head is given 
to those who like it. The thin part about the tail 
of a fish is generally least esteemed. 

A cod's head and shoulders, if large, and in sea- 
son, is a very genteel and handsome dish, if nicely 
ooiled. When cut, it should be done with a spoon 
or fish trowel; the parts about the back-bone, on 
the shoulders, are the most firm and best; take off 
a piece quite down to the bone, in the direction a, 
b, d, c, putting in the spoon at a, c, and with each 
slice of fish give a piece of the sound, which lies 
underneath the back-bone and lines it, the meat of 
whicli is thin and a little darker coloui-ed than the 
body of the fish itself; this may be got by passing 
a knife or spoon underneath, in the direction d, a. 

1 nere are a great many delicate parts about the 
bead, some firm kernels, and a great deal of the 
jelly kind. The jelly parts lie about the jaw- 
bone, the firm parts within the head, which must 
3 D 



be broken into with a spoon. Some like the pal- 
ate and some the tongue, which likewise may be 
got by putting the spoon into the mouth, in the 
direction of the line e, s. The green jelly of the 
eye is never given to any one. 



Apiece of boiled salmon. 




Of boiled salmon there is one part more fat and 
rich than the other. The belly part is the fattest 
of the two, and it is customary to give to those 
that like both, a thin slice of each; fo: the one, 
cut it out of the belly part, in the direction d, C{ 
the other, out of the back, in the line a, b. Those 
who are fond of salmon generally like the skin; of 
course, the slices are to be cut thi^, skin and all. 



There are but few directions necessary for cut- 
ting up and serring fish. In turbot, the fish-knife 
or trowel is to be entered in the centre or middle 
over the back-bone, and a piece of the flesh, as 
much as will lie on the trowel, to be taken off on 
one side close to the bones. The thickest part of 
the fish is always most esteemed, but not too near 
the head or tail; and when the meat on one side 
of the fish is removed close to the boies, the whole 
back-bone is to be raised with the knife and fork, 
and the under side is then to be divided among the 
company. Turbot eaters esteem the fins a deli- 
cate part. 

The rock fish and sheepshead are carved like 
the turbot. The latter is considered the most deli- 
cate fish of the Atlantic coast; and the former, 
though common, are highly esteemed, particularly 
those caught in fresh water. 

The hallibut is also frequently brought to mar- 
ket. The fins and parts lying near them are of a 
delicate texture and flavour; the remaining part of 
the fish is coarse. 

Soals are generally sent to table two ways, some 
fried, others boiled; these are to be cut right 
through the middle, bone and all, and a piece of 
the fish, perhaps a third or fourth part, according 
to its size, given to each. The same may be done 
with other fishes, cutting them across, as may be 
seen in the cut of the mackerel, below, d, e, c, b. 

A mackerel. 




A mackerel is to be thus cut. Slit the fish all 
along the back with a knife, in the line a, e, b, and 
take off one whole side as far as the line b, c, not 
too near the head, as the meat about the gills is 

2 i 2 



426 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



generally black and ill-flavoured. The roe of a 
male fish is soft like the brain of a calf; the roe of 
the female fish is full of small eggs and hard. 
Some prefer one and some another, and part of 
such roe as your friend likes should be given to 
him. 

The meat about the tail of all fish is generally 
thin and less esteemed, and few like the head of a 
fisli, except it be that of a carp, the palate of which 
is esteemed the greatest delicacy of the whole. 

Eels are cut into pieces through the bone, and 
the thickest part is reckoned the prime piece. 

There is some art in dressing a lobster, but as 
this is seldom sent up to table whole, I will only 
say that the tail is reckoned the prime part, and 
next to this the claws. 



THE CHOICE OF ANIMAL FOOD. 



We conclude the foregoing treatise on the Art 
of Carving, by the following instructions, intended 
to aid housekeepers in the purchase of the most 
common oescriptions of meat for the table. 

Bsef. — If the flesh of ox-beef is young, it will 
have a fine smooth open grain, be of a good red, 
and feel tender. The fat should look white rather 
than yellow; for when that is of a deep colour, the 
meat is seldom good: beef fed by oil cakes is It 
general so, and the flesh is flabby. The grain of 
cow-beef is closer, and tlie fat whiter, than that of 
ox-beef; but tlie lean is not of so bright a red. The 
grain of bull-beef is closer sliM, the fat hard and 
skinny, the lean of a deep red, and a stronger 
scent. Ox-beef is the reverse. Ox-beef is the 
richest and largest; but in small families, and to 
some tastes, heifer-beef is better if finely fed. In 
old meat there is a streak of horn in the ribs of 
beef: the harler this is, the older; and the flesh is 
not finely flavoured. 

Veal. — The flesh of a bull calf is firmest, but 
not so white. The fillet of the cow calf is gene- 
rally preferred for the udder. The whitest is not 
the most juicy, having been made so by frequent 
bleeding, and having had %vhiting to lick. Choose 
the meat of which the kidney is well covered with 
white thick fat. If the bloody vein in the shoulder 
looks blue, or of a bright red, it is newly killed; 
but any other colour shows it stale. The other 
parts should be dry and white: if clammy or spot- 
ted, the meat is stale and bad. The kidney turns 
first in the loin, and the suet will not then be firm. 

Mutton. — Choose this by the fineness of its 
grain, good colour, and firm white fat. It is not 
the better for being young; if of a good breed and 
well fed, it is better for age; but this only holds 
with wether mutton: the flesh of the ewe is paler, 
and the texture finer. Ram mutton is very strong 
fl-tvoured, the flesh is of a deep red, and the fat is 
spongy. 

Lamb Observe the neck of a fore quarter: if 

the vein is bluish, it is fresh; if it has a green or 
yellow cast, it is stale. In the hind quarter, if 
there is a faint smell under the kidney, and the 
knuckle is limp, the meat is stale. If the eyes are 
sunk, the head is not fresh. Grass-lamb comes 
into season in April or May, and continues till 
August. House-lamb may be had in great towns 
almost all the year, but is in highest perfection in 
December and January. 

Pork. — Pinch the lean, and if young it will 
break. If the rind is tough, thick, and cannot 
easily be impressed by the finger, it is old. A 
thin rind is a merit in all pork. When fresh, the 
tiesh will be smooth and cool; if clammy, it is 



tainted. What is called measly pork is very un- 
wholesome; and may be known by the fat being 
full of kernels, which i« good pork is never the 
case, PorK fed at still-houses does not answer for 
curing any way, the fat being spongy. Dairy fed 
pork is the best. 

A turkey cock, if young, has a smooth black 
leg, with a short spur. The eyes full and bright, 
if fresh, and the feet supple and moist. If stale, 
the eyes will be sunk, and the feet dry. — A hen- 
turkey is known by the same rules; but if old, her 
legs will be red and rough. 

Fowls. — If a cock is young, his spurs will be 
short; but take care to see they have not been cut 
or pared, which is a trick often practised. If 
fresh, the vent will be close and dark. Pullets 
are best just before they begin to lay, and yet are 
full of eggs: if old hens, their combs and legs will 
be rough; if young, they will be smooth. A good 
capon has a thick belly and a large.rump: there is 
a particular fat at his breast, and the comb is very 
pale. Black-legged fowls are most moist, if for 
roasting. 

Geese. — The bill and feet of a young one will 
be yellow, and there will be but few hairs upon 
them; if old, they will be red: if fresh, the feet 
will be pliable; if stale, dry and stiff. Geese are 
called green till three or four months old. Green 
geese should be scalded: a stubble-goose should 
be picked drv. 

Ducks. — Choose them by the same rules, of 
having supple feet, and by their being hard and 
thick on the breast and belly. The feet of a tame 
duck are thick, and inclining to dusky yellow; a 
wild one has the feet reddish, and smaller than the 
tame. They should be picked dry. Ducklings 
must be scalded. 



Shad. — ^If good, they are white and thick. If 
too t;.^esh tliey eat tough, but must not be kept 
above two Jays without salting. 

Herrings. — If good, their gills are of a fine red, 
and the eyes bright; as is likewise the whole fish, 
which must be stiff and firm. 

JiObsters. — If they have not been long taken, the 
claws will have a strong mot'.on when j"ou put your 
finger on the eyes and press them. The heaviest 
are the best. The cock-lobster is known by the 
narrow back part of his tail, and the two upper- 
most fins within it are stiff" and hard; but those of 
the hen are soft, and the tail broader. The male, 
though generally smaller, has the highest flavour, 
the flesh is firmer, and the colour when boiled is 
a deeper red. 

Crabs. — The heaviest are best, and those of a 
middling size are sweetest. \i light they are 
watery; when in perfection the joints ot the legs 
are stiff, and the bodj' has a very agreeable smell. 
The eyes look dead and loose when stale. 

Oysters. — There are several kinds. The native 
are finest, being white and fat; but others may be 
made to possess both these qualities in some de- 
gree by proper feeding. When alive and strong 
the shell is close. They should be eaten as soon 
as opened, the flavour becoming poor otherwise. 
The rock-oyster is largest, but usually has a coarse 
flavour if eaten raw. 

The abundance and variety of fishes daily 
brought to market in every seaport town in the 
United States, cannot be equalled in any other part 
of the world. And the general practice of ex- 
hibiting them for sale jumping alive, while it pre- 
cludes the possibility of deception, renders farther 
directions for avoiding impoettion unnecessary. 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



427 



INDEX. 



Abscess . . . -. 2t9 

Accidents in general . . 220 

comppund ... 227 

Acid liquors • . • 153 

pyroligneous, to prepare . . 155 

acetous, to make strong . .156 

acetic, to prepare . . 241 

formic . . . 156 

marine, or spirits of salt . . ib 

Acorn coffee . . .158 

Adulteration in wine to detect . 137 

Ague, treatment of the . . 199 

Air, to purify, in hospitals, theatres, &c. 240 

pipes for ventilating sliips . 241 

trunk . . • . ib 

to cool it in summer, German way . ib 

vitiated, in bed rooms, to correct . ib 

to fumigate foul rooms . . ib 

portable apparatus for purifying the 399 

foul, cautions respecting the . 260 

ventilation of churches and houses ib 

burying in churches . . 261 

noxious vapours in wells, to prevent 

the effects of, &c. . 261, 407 

bath, use of . . . 408 

Alcohol, to make, from potatoes . 143 

to discover in wine, beer, &c. . 392 

to ascertain proportions of, in wine, &e. 392 

Ale, London, to brew . . 108 

to brew, in small families . 109 

on Mr Cobbett's plan . .110 

from sugar and malt . . Ill 

to brew ^Velsh, Burton, Ringwood, Not- 
tingham, Dorchester, Essex, Barnsta- 
ble, Edinburgh, Windsor, 
table . 
Yorkshire oat 
from pea-shells . 
to fine and preserve 
to give new the flavour of old 
to bottle 

to ripen, if flat, when bottled 
to manage in the cellar 

Alexeterial waters, simple, to distil 

Alloys, or compound metals 
fusible 
roetallographical application of 

Alloy for flute-key valves 
printers' types . 
small do. and stereotype plates 
of gold with platinum 

Almond milk, to make 
oil of . 

Amalgam of gold in the large way 

Ammonia, pure, i«'ater of 
acetaled 

Amputation . . 

Aneurism . 

Angina pectoris 

Anti-scorbutic water, to distil . 

Aniraatton, suspended . 



112, 113 

110 

114 

ib 

115 

117 

120 

ib 

ib 

150 

9 

10 

11 

10 

ib 

ib 

13 

660 

ib 

17 

253 

ib 

227 

218 

214 

153 

228 



Anatto for dyeing, to use, &e. 
Anchovies, artificial, to pickle 
Animals, noxious, bites and stings of 

to paint, water colours 
Animal food, choice of 
Anisette de Bourdeaux 
Aniseed cordial, to make 

oil of, to obtain . 

compound spirit of 
Anti-attrition, to prepare 
Antimonial ores, to assay 
Antimony, arseniated, humid assay of 
Ants, acid of, (see formic acid) 
Apiary, to estaolish an 
Apoplexy 
Apples, to preserve . 

to keep for market 

qualities of . 

Apricots, to preserve 

qualities of 
Aqua-mellis, hqpey water, to make 
Aqua-fortis, double 

common 

simple 
Aqua-regia, to prepare 

common 
Arrack, to make 
Arsenical ores, to assay 
Artichokes 
Ascarides, to destroy 
Asparagus, to cultivate, &e. 

ragout of" 

qualities of 
Assay of metallic o: us 
Assay of ores, dry way 

weights 

of metallic ores, humid 

iron ores 

humid, of ditto . 

zinc ores 

tin do. 

lead do. 

copper do. 

bismuth do. 

antimonial do. 

humid, of arseniated antimony 

manganese ores 

arsenical do. 

nickel do. 

cobalt do. 

mercurial do 

humid, of cinnabar 

silver ores 

by cupellation 

the value of silver 

double, of stiver 

ores and earths containing gold 

humid, of gold, mixed with martial py- 
rites 

plated metals 
Asthma .... 
Attrition, anti, to prepare 



ib 

18 

203 

29 



428 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



B. 



Bacon, qualities of 
Badigeon, to distemper in 
Balloons, to varnish 

rarefied air 
Balsam of turpentine, Dutch drops from 
Tolu, tincture of 
Riga, to obtain the true 
Godbold's vegetable 
ol honey 
Barberry marmalade, to make 

to preserve 
Barley, varieties of 

to prepare the ground for 

quantity of seed, &e. &c. 

qualities of 
Barns and out-houses, to clear from wevil 
&c. 

rats and mice 
Barometers, to <"onstruct 

to purify the mercury 

process of filling the tube 

Troughton's improved marine 

portable 

simple 
Bath metal, to prepare 
Bath, cold, use of 

shower 

tepid 
Bathing, cramp in 

precautions in 

general observations on 

sea 
Beans, plough for cleaning 

qualities of 

to cultivate 

drilling, approved modes of 
mactiines 

quantity of seeds for 

hoeing, &c. 
Beds, to warm 

Beecii wood, to dye mahogany 
Beef, qualities of 

leg of, to pot 

to salt 

en daube 

a la mode, to make 
another 

tongue 

sportsman's 

tainted, to restore 

choice of 

to carve 
Bee-flowers, to cultivate 
Beer, table, to brew from pale malt 

from sugar 

from treacle 

on Mr Cobbett's plan 

bran, to brew 

cheap . . 

from pea-shells, to brew , 

ginger 

required time for keeping 

to give brightness to 

amber, or two-penny, to brew 

molasses, to make 

to fine 

musty, to restore 

dead, to enliven 

to fine and preserve a cask of 

flat, to recover 

to prevent becoming stale and flat 

ropy, to restore 

staie or sour, to restore 

frosted, to restore 

foxing, to cure, &c. 

to give a rich flavour to 



402 

40 

34 

ib 

149 

252 

148 

253 

252 

183 

186 

330 

ib 

ib 

403 

337 

418 

383 

ib 

ib 

ib 

385 

413 

11 

259 

ib 

260 

259 

ib 

ib 

ib 

315 

303 

331 

ib 

332 

ib 

ib 

391 

03 

402 

166 

186 

167 

166 

415 

167 

417 

ib 

426 

420 

365 

110 

114 

110 

ib 

114 

ib 

114 

156 

114 

115 

ID 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 
116 

ib 
117 

iLi 

ib 
114 
117 



Beer, caution in the use of foreign ingredients 
tt jle, to bottle . 

bottled, to ripen . 

ginger powders, to make 
Bees, to avoid "njury from . 
management of 
to work in glass hives 

straw hives . 
box hives 
hectagon, box and straw hives 
the common hive 
to establish an apiary 
to swarm 
to hive 

to unite swarms, &c. 
to feed 

by an improved machine 
to manage generally' 
to keep large hives for winter 
to manage on Mr Thorley's plan 
to manage on Mr Cobbett's plan 
Beets, brandy from , . 

sugar from 
Bell-metal, to prepare 
Bergaraotte water, to distil 
Beverages, miscellaneous 
Biles 
Birch oil 

Binding, improved mode of 
Birds, to draw in water colours 
Biscuits, fancy, to make 
sponge 
Savoy 
Bismuth ores, to assay 
Bites and stings of noxious animals, tsc. 

of reptiles and insects 
Blacking, to make 
liquid 

cake, Bailey's, to make, 
balls for shoes 
Japan, liquid 
Bladder, inflammation of the . 
Blane-mange, to make, &e. 
lemon 

Mrs Hoffman's 
Blearhing and scouring 

liquoi's, improved to prepare 
sulphuret of lime for 
bleaching, sulphurous acids for 
to full cloths, woollens, &e. 
to wash chintz 
to wash fine lace or linen 
to clean black and white sarcenets 
to wash and stain tifflinies 
to wash and starch lawns 
to clean buff"-coloured cloth 
to make saponaceous ley for washing 
to clean and starch point lace 
to clean white veils 
black do 

white, satin and flowered silks 
coloured silks of all kinds 
black do 
to dip rusty do 
to clean silk stockings 
to extract grease from coloured silks and 

muslins 
to take stains out of silks 
to take spots of paint from cloth, &c. 
to scour yarn 
thick cotton counterpanes 
undycd woollens 
clothes, coats, pelisses, &c. 
carpets, hearth-rugs, &c. . 
to clean cotton gowns , , 

scarlet cloth » 

to dip scarlet cloth , 



Bleaching and scouring, 

to raise the na^) on cloth ► 

to revive faded black cloth 

to dry clean cloth 

to take iron mould out of linen 

tr make breeches ball 
clothes do 

to take grease, out of leather breeches 

to prepare a chemical liquor for boot 

to remove oil from feathers 

to clean leather 

to make scouring balls 

to clean marble 

to remove stains from silver plate 

to make plate look like new 

to take out fruit spots from cloth 

to clean gold lace and embroidery 

to remove grease from cloth 
from paper 

to take mildew out of linen 

to take out spots of ink 

to take out stains from cloth or silk 

to clean gloves without wetting 

Fuller's purifier for woollens 

to clean all sorts of metal . 

to remove stains from mahogany 

to take out writing 

to restore whites in old pictures 

to restore hangings, carpels, ita. 

to clean paper hangings 
Bleach, to, cloths . . 

linen, &c. by oxymuriatic acids 

by oxymuriate of lime 

by sulphuret of lime 

by alkalized steam 

cotton 

wool 

silk 

prints jtnd printed books 

wool, silk, straw hats, &c. 

shell-lac, way to 
Bleeding at the nose, to stop 

from wounds do 

. from the lungs do 

from the stomach do 

to perform the operation of 
Blindness, night 
Blotched face 

Blubber, mode. of applying as manure 
Boerhaave's rules for preserving health 
Bonbons, to make 
Bone, use of as manure 

to dye different colours 
Bonnets, straw, to bleach 
Books, printed, tn bleach 

method of binding 

to cover with leather 

half bound 
Boots, to render water proof 
Boot-tops, chemical liquor for 
Boots and shoes, to clean 

to prevent leaking 
Bougies, directions for passing 
Bouilli en matelotte 
Box-wood, to dye brown 

for engraving 
Brain, inflammation of the 

concussion of the 

compression of the 
Brass, to prepare 

fine casting of 

solder, for iron, to make 

ornaments, to preserve 
to polish 
Brawn, mock, to make 
Brandy, British, to make 
to improve 



tops 



30, 



INDEX. 



99 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

100 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

101 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

94 

95 

ib 

ib 

ib 

96 

ib 

ib 

97 

99 

97 

202 

221 

204 

205 

230 

201 

217 

324 

260 

181 

324 

92 

99 

97 

393 

ib 

ih 

405 

99 

388 

417 

231 

167 

93 

78 

201 

221 

ib 

11 

12 

13 

387 

31 

169 

141 

142 



429 



Brandy, Cogniao, to imitate 


141 


from treacle 


142 


potatoes 


ib 


beets 


lU 


cherry, to make 


147 


black, to make . 


ib 


caraway 


ib 


lemon 


ib 


orange 


ib 


raspberry 


ib 


Breath, to sweeten 


190 


Brew-house, to fit up a small . 


106 


Brewing 


ib 


to choose water for 


ib 


improvement in 


110 


to cool worts in 


108, 394 


Brew, to, porter on the London plan 


108 


on Mr Morris's plan 


109 


brown stout 


ib 


London ale 


ib 


ale in small families 


ib 


table beer from pale malt 


no 


from sugar and treacle 


. < . ib 


ale and small beer on Mr Cobbett's plan ib 


porter from sugar and malt 


111 


Barnstable, Burton, Dorchester, Edin- 


burgh, Essex, Nottingham, 


Ring. 


wood, Welsh, Windsor, ale 


112, 113 


Yorkshire oat 


114 


with Needham's portable machii 


le . 113 


porter, with table beer after 


. 114 


bran beer 


ib 


cheap do 


ib 


beer and ale from pea shells 


ib 


amber beer . . 


115 


molasses beer 


ib 


spruce beer 


. 114 


sugar beer 


ib 


Brewing utensils, to preserve . 


. 117 


use of sugar in . 


. 119 


Bread, qualities of 


403 


potatoe 


172 


excellent 


361 


with little yeast 


ib 


London baker's . 


ib 


household 


363 


to produce one-third more from 


a given 


quantity 


ib 


French 


ib 


mixed 


ib 


bran 


ib 


leaven, to make 


ib 


four quartern loaves 


ib 


cheap, to make . 


ib 


of Iceland moss and flour 


ib 


on Cobbett's plan 


ib 


adulterated, to detect 


363 


Breeches ball, to make 


99 


leather, to remove grease from 


ib 


Brimstone, like marble, to make 


70 


Bristles, to dye gi-een . 


92 


blue and red 


ib 


Britannia metal, to make 


12 


Bronchocele or goitre 


213 


Bronze, to prepare . , 


12 


to plaster figures 


30 


Brushes, choice of, for miniature pai 


Qting 65 


Budding trees, method of 


287 


shield 


ib 


by double ligatures 


288 


Bugs, to prevent, &c. 


387 


Buns, common, to make 


179 


cross 


ib 


Burns and scalds 


230 


liniments for 


ib 


Burnishing, to gild by 


15 


Butter, qualities ot 


402 



430 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



Butter, to care . . 360, 407 

to remove the tuniip flavour from . 360 

to make, Dumbarton way . ib 

Russian way . . 394 

of roses . . 148 

Bubo . . . .210 



C. 

Cabbages, qualities of . 403 

to keep caterpillars from . . 305 

to keep the red spider from . lb 

to preserve for sea voyages . 393 

Cajeput oil, to obtain . . 14s 

Cakes, sec pastrjf . . lT7,4l3 

Calf, or other skins, to tan . . 280 

Calico printing, process of . .89 

to dye nankin colour . . ib 

various colour" . . ib 

to mix the tin with indigo . ib 

to dye dove colour and drab , lb 

different colours . . ib 

to prepare substitute for gum . ib 

Calves, to rear . . . 357 

without milk . . . ib 

Camomile, oil of . . . 14S 

Camphor, from essential oils, to obtain . 149 

japan . . . . ib 

mixture, to -repare . . 200 

Cancer . " . . -213 

of the yard . . .211 

Candlesticks and snuffers, to clean . 389 

Candles, substitute for • . 359 

wax, to make . . . 396 

Canvass, to make water proof . . 41 

Caoutchouc varnish, to mak-e , . 34 

Capillaire, to make . . . 182 

Capsicum, to raise . . . 305 

Carbuncle . . . .219 

Card work, to varnish . . 25 

Cayenne pepper, to make . . 305 

Carmine . . • .43 

for dyeing, to prepare . . 91 

Carpets, to scour . . .99 

to restore . • . 101 

to print . • .91 

to choose . . . 394 

Caraway cordial, to make . . 146 

oil, to obtain . . . 14S 

Carrots, qualities of . • . 404 

to cultivate . . .338 

spirits from . . . 143 

Carving, art of . . . 419 

a leg of mutton . . . ib 

a shoulder of mutton . . ib 

a leg of pork . . . 420 

a shoulder oi pork . . ib 

an edge bone of beef . . ib 

a knuckle of veal . . ib 

a roasted breast of veal . . ib 

a saddle of mutton . . 421 

a spare rib of pork . . ib 

half a calf's head boiled . . ib 

a ham . . . . >b 

a haunch of venison , . ib 

an ox tongue . . . 422 

a brisket of beef . . ' ib 

a buttock of beef , . ib 

a sirloin of beef , . ib 

a fore quarter of lamb . . ib 

a fillet of veal . . , 423 

a roast pig . , . ib 

a rabbit . . . ib 

a goose . . . ib 

a pheasant . . . ib 

a partridge . 424 

a fowl . . . ib 



Carving, art of 

a turkey . . 124 

a pigeon . . . 419 

a cod's head . . 425 

boiled salmon <> . . ib 

a mackerel . . . ib 

Catheter, directions for passing the . 230 

Casks, musty, to sweeten . .117 

foul, to sweeten . , ib 

to sweeten, London cooper's way . 118 

new, to season . . . ib 

match for sweetening . . 137 

empty, to keep sweet , . 118 

to close without bungs . . 119 

Cassia oil, to obtain . . 148 

Casting stereotype plates, mode of . lO 

fine, of brass, &c. . . 12 

Casts, metallic, from cop[»er engravings 10 

from fusible metal . . 11 

Catsup, tomatas, to make . 176, 4l4 

for sea store . • . 176 

Caterpillars on gooseberries, to prevent the 

ravages of . . . 299 

on shrubs, plants, &c. . . 305 

to drive away . . . 387 

Catarrh, or cold . . . , 203 

Cattle, diseases of (see Farriery) . 264 

hcrned, cheap way of rearing . 356 

Cautions, salutary . . , 254 

to painters and glaziers . . 242 

preservation of health on ship board 255 
in removing from a hot to a cold situation 262 

purification of water by charcoal . 254 

to seamen on shore . . 255 

in the tropics . . ib 

preservation from drowning, &c. . 256 

m bathing . . . 259 

cleanliness . . . 255 

prevention of dampness and cold . ib 

exercise and amusements ., . ib 

effects of climate . . ib 

intoxication . . . ib 

noxious vapours . . . 25S 

captain Cook's rules for seamen . ib 

to females whose clothes are on fire 408 

prevention of this accident . ib 

to escape lightning . . 406 

to prevent the effects of cold . 228 

food, qualities of, vegetable and animal 402 

general rules for preserving health . 260 

for treating diseases . 197 

SirR. Philips' rules lor preserving health 260 

Dr Boerhaave's do do do ib 

exercise . . . 261 

getting wet . . . 262 

to keep the feet dry . . ib 

cold liquors in hot weather . 40^ 

clothing . . . sec 

air . . . . ib 

dram-drinking . . . 408 

to procure sleep . . ib 

to relieve headach . . 201 

the air bath . . . 408 

to preserve the eye-sight . . 262 

cosmetics ; . . 263 

the teeth . . . ib 

warts . . . 234 

accidents in general . . 220 

to detect oxalic acid . ■ 408 

prevention of and escape from fil'e . 395 

to extinguish fires in chimneys . 386 

to render paper fiie proof . 408 

security against fire in manufactories 409 

do do in hay-stacks . ib 

scalds and burns ' . . 230 

to escape from a house on fire . 395 

Cedrat cordial, to make . 145 



INDEX. 



Cedrat, essence, to obtain 


14S 


Celery, qualities of 


404 


Cements, . • 


101 


Cement, building 


ib 


Hamelin's . • 


102 


fd floors 


ib 


for canals • • 


103 


Parker's 


ib 


for rock work and reservoirs 


ib 


mortar, to make 


ib 


Tunisian 


\i> 


Dutch Terras 


ib 


Tournay 


ib 


Roman 


ib 


genuine Roman 


ib 


Maltha or Greek mastich 


ib 


Indian 


ib 


impenetrable mortar 


ib 


Wyoh's stucco 


ib 


Williams's stucco 


104 


iron, to make 


ib 


water 


ib 


fire and water-proof 


iu 


Turkish, for joining metal, glass 


ib 


Yates's water-i)roof 


ib 


common, for alabaster, &c. 


ib 


to make lutes 


iu 


for iron, culinary utensils 


105 


Turner's, to make 


ib 


for joining broken glasses . 


,- ib 


strong, for electrical uses 


1^^ ib 


for glass-grinders 


ib 


for broken glass 


ib 


for Derbyshire spar, &c. 


ib 


to resist boiling water and steam 


ib 


blood, for coppersmiths 


106 


Japanese or rice glue 


ib 


royal, to make 


19 


for metals, to make 


385 


mahogany-coloured 


ib 


microscopic 


106 


for entomologists 


ib 


for steam engines, two . 


105 


patent 


392 


Laplander's 


412 


Cerate, of Spanish flies 


251 


Turner's 


ib 


Chairs, old leather, to restore blackness tc 


32 


to restore 


101 


Chal.k mixture 


207 


Chalks for drawing 


53 


Chamois, imitation of 


283 


Chancres 


210 


Charcoal, to make 


140 


for drawing 


53 


to protect from the effects of 


261 


Cheese, qualities of 


402 


green gooseberry, tomaKe 


172 


Damson 


184 


Cheshire 


361 


Stilton, substitute for 


395 


Parmesan, to imitate 


ib 


cakes, various . 


180 


Cheri'ies, qualities of . 


404 


to dry 


186 


Chesnut, horse, uses of . , 


282 


Chesnuts, to preserve 


309 


Chest, dropsy cf 


204 


wounds in the 


22i 


Chicken pox 


216 


Chickens, to manage 


368 


pie of 


168 


to hatch 


35S 


au soleil 


ler 


Chilblains, to remove 


234, 394 


Children, management and diseases of 


246 


infant nursing 


lb 



Children, management and diseases of 




friction . . 


. 246 


position 


ib 


exercise . , 


ib 


to prevent distortion 


ib 


to render hardy 


ib 


cleanliness and bathing 


iu 


dressing 


ib 


heat and cold 




ib 


food and drink 




io 


early rising 




ib 


walking 




ib 


sleep 




ib 


restlessness 




247 


the nursery 




ib 


nurses 




ib 


external impressions 


ib 


amusements 


ib 


retention of the meconium 


ib 


the yellow gum 


ib 


vomiting 


lb 


hiccups 


ib 


griping and flatulency 


ib 


diarrhoea 


ib 


excoriations 


ib 


cutaneous eruptions 


24S 


the thrush 


ib 


falling of the fundament 


ib 


dentition 


ib 


scarifying the gums 


ib 


convulsions 


ib 


inward fits 


ib 


the rickets 


ib 


distorted spine 


249 


ring-worm and scald head 


ib 


hooping-cough . 


ib 


croup 


ib 


Chimneys, smoky, to cure 


386 


to clean 


ib 


on fire, to extinguish 


386, 40S 


China ware, to manufacture 


369 


to bake 


370 


Saxon or Dresden 


ib 


English, composition of 


ib 


glaze for printing blue frit 


371 


to prepare 


ib 


for flotts 


ib 


and glass, to clean and pack 


388 


Chinese sheet lead, to make 


18 


Chintz, to wash 


9i7 


Chlorosis 


. 243 


Chocolate, qualities of 


404 


to make 


157 


drops 


182 


Cholera morbus (see Medicine) 


206 


Chowder 


172 


Cider, to make 


120 


Devonstiire 


ib 


Scotch 


121 


to manage 


ib 


cheap, from raisins 


ib 


general rules for making . 


ib 


Cinnabar, humid assay of . , 


8 


Cinnamon, cordial, to make 


146 


strong 


ib 


oil of, to obtain 


148 


water, to make 


151 


Citron cordial, to make 


146 


Citrons, to obtain the essence of . 


391 


Clay, burning, Mr Craig's method 


323 


Cloth, cotton, to dye black 


85 


black, to dye green 


88 


to bleach . ' . 


94 


to full 


96 


to render water-proof 


29,41 


common waxed . . 


29 


fine printed, yarn 


shed 


it 



432 

Jloth, buff-coloured, to clean , 97 

to take out fruit stains from . 100 

. to take spots of paint from . 98 

grease from . 100 

scarlet, to clean and dip . . 99 

the nap on, to raise . . ib 

faded bl"ck, to revive . . ib 

to dry clean • . . ib 

Clothes ball, to make . .100 

Clothes, to brush . . .390 

to preserve . . . 387 

to scfjur . . .94 

to take out rease from . . 390 

to perfume ' . . . 190 

Clove cordial, to make . ♦ 146 

drops, to obtain . . 182 

Clnves, oil of . . .148 

Coal-tar, to make gas from . . ^91 

Coats, to scour . . . J4 

Cobalt or«s, to assay . . .7 

oxide of, to prepare . . 69 

Cocoa, sassafras . . . 157 

substitutes for . , . 158 

Coffee, qualities of . . . 404 

to make . . . 159 

substitutes for . . . 157 

acorn . . , ib 

Arabian method of making . 159 i 

improvement m . . ib 

Parisian method of making . 160 

milk, to make . . . ib 

drops . . .182 

pot, improved . . . 396 

Coins, easy mode of taking impressions from 395 

Cold, intense, remedies for . . 228 

and dampness, to prevent the effects of 255 

liquors, effects of, to prevent . 408 

Colds, remedies tor . . 236 

emulsion for . . . ib 

gargles for . . . ib 

Colic . . . .207 

painter's . . . 208 

Colour, to, steel blue . . 21 

Colours, oil and water . . 35 

for house painting, to mix . ib 

black painf, to make . . ib 

lamp-black . . .36 

black, from grotmd pit-coal . ib 

■wine lees . . ib 

ivory and bone . ib 

blue and blue distemper . . 38 

paint, (Prussian) . . ib 

Saxon . , . ib 

verditer . . ' . ib 

chamois and buff . . ib 

chesnut . . .39 

crimson or rose . . . ib 

green . . .38 

cheap . . .40 

(sea) for distemper . . 38 

varnish and oils . ib 

compound, for rooms . 39 

for carriage wheels . . ib 

paint, cheap . . Z7 

grey, (light) and distemper . S6 

flaxen . . .37 

pearl . . . ib 

jonquil . . . ib 

olive, for oil and varnish . . 38 

for distemper . . ib 

fine black . . .400 

chesnut . . .39 

oak wood . . . 37 

red, for carriages . . 39 

cuffets . . . ib 

bright . . , ib 

violet . , . ib 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



Colours, oil and water 
walnut wood 
white paint 
■white distemper 

house paint, e'^onomical 
yellow, Naples and Montpellier 
golden 
artist's oil 
azure, to make an excellent 
blue 

verditer 

Saxon, artificial 
Prussian 
liquid, superb 
cobalt, bleu de Thenard 
carmine, to prepare 
cochineal, substitute for 
green . . 

Scheele's . , 

Brunswick . 

new 

paint, to improve . 
lake, from Brazil-wood 
from other matters 
carminated, from madder 
from scarlet cloth 
improvement in do . 
fine red 
beautiful do 
Florentine 
from madder 
to give various tones to 
orange and yellow 
pink 

fine brown 

Dutch, from woad . 

from yellow berries 
brownish yellow 
for oil painting 
purple 
red . . . 

dark 
rouge 
ultra-marine 

to extract the remainder of 
to test 
violet, to prepare 
white, pearl 

durable, for painters 
yellow, lemon 

Chinese . . 

Montpellier 
Naples 
patent 
flesh, to imitate . 
used in encaustic painting . 
compound for receiving 
mixed, to prepare 

directions for using 
to mix mineral substances in linseed oil 
Colouring materials 
Colours, wash, for maps, to prepare 
blue, red, green, yellow, 
water, used in drawing 
implements 
to draw in 
general or simple 
blacks, blues, browns, crimsons, greens, 
lakes, purples, reds, whites, yellows. 



to prepare 
yellows, from French berries 
mixed, directions for , 

to prevent from cracking . 
solution of gum for 
to keep oft* flies , 

alum water, to prepare for 
lime wate^" 



49, 50, ; 



INDEX. 



433 



Colours, lixivium of pearl-ashes 
decayed, to restore 
to keep from sinking 
for animals, to mix 
to draw fruits in 
birds in 
rules for painting landscapes in 

for sketching portraits from life 
primitive and their combinations 
for painting on velvet 
Composts, to prepare 
for manure 
for moulds 
for plants 

Lord Meadowbank's 
Compression of the brain 
Confectionary 
drops 

sugar, to prepare for candying 
to candy 

candied, to colour 
barley, to make 
candy, white, do 
loaf, to clarify 
coarse, brown, do 
to improve and increase 
starch, to make 
birch, to make 
pear 
grape 
devices in 
bon-bons, to make 
ginger, to candy 
hore'iiound, do 
orange-peel, do 
lemon-peel, do 
whipt syllabub, to make 
solid do do 

snow balls do 

capillaire do 

chocolate drops do 
orange flower do do 
coifee do do 

peppermint do do 
clove do do 

ginger do do 

liquorice lozenges do 
extract of do 
juice of do 
refined do 
marmalade, orange, to candy 

transparent, to make 
barberry 
quince 
Scotch 
jelly, hartshorn . 

currant, and black currant 
calf's foot . 
ivory 

strawberry 
gooseberry 
cream, whipt . . 

pistachio 

ice . . 

raspberry 
jam, raspberry, and strawberry 
paste, raspberry . 

orgeat 
pate de guimauve 

jujubes 
Damson cheese . . 

omelette souffle, (see Culinary Arts) 
Conservatory, to make a 
Consumption, (see Medicine) . 
Contagious disorders, (see Small Pox, Putrid 
Fever, &c.) 
air, to purify, (see Air) . . 

3 E 



53 

ib 

ib 

55 

ib 

56 

ib 

ib 

64 

66 

286 

f285 

ib 

286 

320 

221 

180 

182 

180 

ib 

182 

181 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

182 

181 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

182 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

183 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

413 

249 

184 

ib 

183 

ib 

ib 

184 

Jb 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

286 

204 



241 



Contagious disorders, 

air, permanent and portable apparattu, 

to purify 
preparation of acetic acid 
aromatic vinegar, two kinds 
balsamic and anti-putrid vinegar 
Concussion of the brain 
Contusions 

Convulsions, in pregnancy 
Cookery 

to boil meats 
bake do 
roast do 
fry do 
ssdt do 
pickle do 
regulate time in 
veal, savoury, to make 
cake, to make 
choice of 
breast of, glacee 
shoulder, en galantine 
ragout of, cold 
to carve 
fowls, to dress, game fashion 
wild 

choice of 
qualities of 
chicken, au soleil 
en salmis 
aux choux 
eggs and bacon, artificial, to make 
pork, loin of, Portuguese way 
dry devils 

olio, to make . . . 

beefsteak puddmg 
leg of, to pot 

a la mode 
en bouilli 
en matelotte 
en daube 
tongue, beef 's, aux champignons 
fish, en matelotte 
flounders 
terapins 

oysters . . 

eels, to pot 
lobster or crab, do 
duck, olive sauce . 

sausages, Bologna, to make 
Oxford, do . 

Epping, do . 
savaloys, to make 

French stew of green peas and bacon 
brawn, mock, to make 
fast-day's dish 
omelette, military 
onion 
French 
trumenty 

raspberry dumplings 
cream tarts 
pie, pigeon, giblet, rump steak, chick- 
en, rabbit, raised French, raised ham, 
raised pork, eel, raised lamb, peri' 
gord . . 168, 

pigeons, en compote 
pigeons, aux choux 
puff paste 
short crust 
paste for large pies 

for tarts 
potatoes, to ksep 
to steam 
herrings, economical use of 
sack posset, to make 
ale do do / 



169—1 



434 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



Cookery 




Crayons, coloured, to prepare 


58 


green goosebcxry cheese 


173 


arrangement of 


59 


bread, potatoe, to make 


jb 


carminated lake, for 


54 


potatoes, frosted, to use 


ib 


for drawing, to make 


ib 


broth jelly, to make 


174 


Cream, qualities of 


402 


sauces, (see Sauces) 
soups, (see Soups) 


175 


whipt, to make 


183 


172 


pistachio . . 


ib 


maccaroni, to make 


175 


ice 


ib 


gravy cakes 


176 


raspberry . ~ 


184 


catsup, tomata 


ib 


substitute for 


360 


for sea 


ib 


painter's . * 


25 


ragouts 


ib 


Crerae de Karbades, real 


144 


Cook's, captain, rules for preserving the 




noyeau de Martinique 


145 


health of seamen 


256 


d'orange 


ib 


Copper, ores, to assay 


6 


Crickets, to destroy 


413 


test for 


392 


Croup, in children, remedies for 


249 


blanched, to prepare 


12 


Crows, to banish from a field . 


338 


' to detect in pickles or tea . 


392 


Crucibles, to make 


371 


for foils 


5 


Crumpets, do 


178 


plated, to separate silver from 


.7 


Cucumbers 


301 


plates, to free from grease 


78 


to cultivate 


300 


to secure from corrosion 


ib 


to pickle 


185 


, to choose for engraving 


79 


to preserve 


187 


to apply varnish to 


77 


qualities of 


404 


plate, to take an impression from, on 




Culinary arts . , 


163 


plaster . . 


412 


Currants, qualities of 


404 


Cordials or compound spirits 


146 


Curry, to make a 


173 


general rules for making 


ib 


powder 


ib 


anise-seed, caraway, cedrat, cinnamon. 




Curwen's mode of burning surtace, soil and 


clay 322 


strong cinnamon, citron, clove, cori- 




Custards, (see Pastry) 


178 


ander, eau de bigarade, gold, lemon, 




Cuts 


221 


lovage, nectar, noyau, orange, pepper- 




Cuttings, for plants, to choose 


289 


mint, ratafia, dry ratafia, whiskey, 146- 


-148 


to propagate by . 


ib 


gout do ... 


240 


toinseit 


290 


Corn, Indian, to cultivate 


327 


to manage . . 


ib 


advantages of reaping, before ripe 


329 






to secure against insects 


337 


D. 




mice , 


ib 


Daffy's elixir, to prepare 


252 


to tread, "Virginia manner . 


316 


Dairy, to manage a 


356 


to clean from chaff, by fanners 


317 


maid, directions to 


il> 


Corns, treatment of 


234 


Damsons, to preserve 


185 


to prevent 


ib 


Damson cheese, to make 


184 


Cosmetics 


187 


Dance of St Vitus 


214 


Costiveness, remedy for 


238 


Daniel's life preserver 


257 


Cotton, to bleach 


96 


Deafness in old persons, to cure 


397 


Coughs and colds, remedies for (sec Catarrh) 


236 


Death, sudden, cautions respecting 


406 


candied horehound 


181 


Delft-ware, to make 


370 


paregoric elixir 


236 


Debility, treatment ot 


205 


expectorant pills 


ib 


Decanters, to clean 


390 


Cough mixture 


ib 


Decline, remedy for 


417 


medicine, Dr Monro's 


ib 


Devils, dry, to make 


166 


simple remedy for 


ib 


Diabetes 


209 


to allay at night 


ib 


Dials, transparent, for clocks . 


396 


chronic, remedy for 


ib 


Diarrhoea, to check 


207 


in aged persons 


ib 


various remedies for 


239 


recent 


ib 


Diet, substances used in 


402 


emulsions 


ib 


qualities of animal and vegetable 


ib 


troublesome, and spitting of blood, to 




beef, veal, mutton, lamb, house lamb 


, 


allay 


411 


pork, hams, bacon, goat's flesh, ven 


. 


Counterpanes, thick cotton, to scour 


98 


son, blood of animals, milk, cream 


. 


Court plaster 


252 


butter, cheese, fowls, turkeys, wil 


d 


Cows, improved mode of feeding 


356 


fowls, eggs, fish, oysters, muscles 


J 


Cow feeder, directions to the 


ib 


periwinkles, bread, pastry, oats, bar 


. 


milch, to choose . 


357 


ley, rice, potatoes, peas, beans 


, 


economy of a . 


ib 


salad, spinach, asparagus, artichoke 


i, 


Crabs, to pot , , 


166 


cabbages, turnips, carrots, parsnips 


> 


to choose 


426 


parsley, celery, onions, garlic, &c. ra 




Cramp, in the stomach 


205 


dishes, apples, pears, cherries, plum 


'j 


in bathing 


259 


peaches and currants, apricots, goose 




Crayoas, to paint in . , , 


56 


berries, strawberries, cucumbers, tes 


1, 


implements 


lb 


coffee, chocolate, 4 


02—40% 


drawing the outlines . .' 


ib 


Dietetic composition, nutritious 


15,' 


painting from life 


ib 


Digestion, to improve 


239 


posture and light 


57 


Digestive pills 


ih 


features of the face . 


ib 


Dippel's oil, to obtain , . 


149 


the neck, &c. 


ib 


Diseases peculiar to females 


212 


draperies, &c. 


53 


hysteric fits . , 


ib 



INDEX. 



435 



Diseases peculiar to females 
hysteric fits, pills for 
debility 

fluor albus, or white* 
regimen, &c. 
tonic and astringent pills 
prevention of 
immoderate flow of the menses 
astringent fomentations 
laxative mixture 
regimen, &c. . 

green sickness 

regimen, &c. 
chalybeate pills and draught for 
"tonic draught 
tincture of iodine 
cessation of the menses 

regimen, &c. 
dropsy, remedies for 
vomiting during pregnancy 
sickness in do . 

heart-burn 
head-ach 
hysteria 

costiveness and piles • 

itchings . . 

swelling of the feet, &e. 
cramp 

in the stomach 
distention and cracking of the skia 

of the veins . 
incontinency ot urine 
restlessness and want of sleep 
convulsions . . 

the milk fever 
remedies . 
regimen . . 

inflamed breasts 
sore nipples . 

puerperal fever . . 

remedies . . 

regimen . . 

Diseases of children, (see Children) 
Dislocations, treatment of 

of the lower jaw, collar hone, shoulder, 
elbow, wrist, fingers, &e., thigh, 
knee, leg, foot 
Distemper, red, for tiles, to make 
in badigeon, to 
sea-green, for 
blue, for 

olive, for . . 

to paint in . . 

white . . 

Distillation . . 

utensils used in 
to preserve flowers for 
of compound spirits 
of essential and other oils 
of compound waters 
Distilleries, fires in, to extinguish 
Dogs, purging ball for 

ointment for the mange . 
best breed of, for shooting game 
to know the age of, to six years 
liniment for 

mercurial do for red mange 
mild ointment for 
lotion for . . 

distemper in . 
Doses, medicinal . . 

Domestic economy . . 

Dover's powders 
Drain, under, to, clay lands 

to, lands 
Dram-drinking, to remedy effects of 
Draining, pi*. . . 





Draining land, Bailey's plan fot 


1. 348 


243 


Drains, main, to construct 


ib 


ib 


to fill 


ib 


ib 


Draperies, &c. to paint . 


64 


ib 


Draw, to, in water colours 


49 


ib 


on glass and on stone . 


67, 68 


ib 


Drawings, to preserve 


54 


ib 


to varnish 


32 


ib 


water colours used in 


49 


ib 


gloss on, to prevent 


53 


244 


black lead pencil, to preserve 


54 


343 


to copy 


55 


244 


in crayons, to fix 


54 


ib 


Drawing pencils, artificial black-lead 


ib 


ib 


English, to make 


ib 


ib 


crayons 


ib 


ib 


Dresses, mourning, to free from stains 


387 


ib 


Drop, the black, composition of 


252 


244, 401 


Dropsy 


209 


ib 


of the chest 


204 


.b 


of the belly 
Drowning, preservation from . 


209 


ib 


256 


ib 


assistance in 


406 


ib 


to extricate from broken ice 


257 


ib 


sufTocatioia by 


228 


ib 


removal of the body 


ib 


ib 


free circulation of fresh air 


ib 


245 


number of assistants 


ib 


ib 


inflation of the lungs 


ib 


ib 


warm fomentations 


ib 


ib 


fumigations and clysters 


ib 


lb 


warm bath 


ib 


ib 


agitation 


ib 


ib 


administration of cordials 


ib 


lb 


bleeding, &c. 


ib 


ib 


Duck, olive "sauce 


167 


ib 


Dumplings, raspberry 


170 


ib 


Dung beds, to form . 


285 


ib 


to increase, by soiling 


320 


ib 


Dutch drops, to obtain 


149 


246 


Dyeing, in all its varieties 


SI 


ib 


mordants for 


ib 


ib 


to choose and apply 


ib 


225 


use of alum as a mordant . 


ib 


fj 


acetite of alumine . 


ib 


^, 


white oxide of tin . 


ib 


226 


red oxide of iron 


ib 


40 


tan, &c. 


ib 


ib 


to determine the effects of various i 


nor- 


38 


dants on colours 


82 


ib 


to determine the effects of various wa 


ters 


ib 


on colours 


83 


36 


to render colours holding . 


82 


ib 


chemical blue and green, for, to mak» 


5 83 


138 


colours for, to discharge • . 


ib 


ib 


to discharge cinnamons, greys, &e. w 


hen 


150 


dyed too full 


ib 


145 


materials, to purchase for . 


82 


148 


to make solution of tin in aquaregia 


83 


151 


to make muriate of tin 


ib 


140 


to prove the colours of dyed stufi's 


91 


274 


to prepare realgar for 


84 


ib 


Dye, to, woollen cloths and wool, blue 


82 


417 


to re-dye the colours of garments 


83 


ib 


to alum silks 


ib 


274 


to, silk blue . . , 


ib 


ib 


cotton and linen bl«<e 


84 


ib 


yellow . . 


ib 


ib 


to, woollens yellow 


ib 


ib 


silks 


ib 


264 


linens and cottons 


ib 


356 


to fix a mineral yellow on wool, silk, 


cot- 


250 


ton, hemp, &c. 


ib 


347 


red . . . . 


ib 


343 


woollens red, crimson and scarlet 


ib 


408 


to carry the coloui- into tlie body of 


the 


34S 


cloth 


S5 



436 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



Cye, silks red, crimson, &c. to .85 
linens and cottons red, scarlet, &c . ib 
black . . . ib 
to, woollens black . . ib 
silks . • . ib 
cottons and linens . . ib 
wool, &c. brown . . ib 
compound colours . . 86 
different shades of green . • ib 
violet, purple and lilac . . ib 
olive, orange and cinnamon . ib 
grey, drab and darV brown . ib 
black upon cotton, linen and mixed goods ib 
olives, bottle-greens, purples, browns, cin- 
namons, or snuffs . . ib 
crimson, red, orange, or yellow . 87 
cotton, wool, and silk, with Prussian hlue ib 
Raymond blue . • ih 
shades of colour, to graduate from Prus- 
sian blue . . . ib 
to precipitate acetates of lead and copper 

on wool, silk, and cotton • ib 

cotton cloth, black . . ib 

wool, a permanent blue colour . ib 

to produce the Swiss red topical mordants ib 

silks and satins, brown, in the small way 88 

fawn colour drabs . . ib 

silk shawls, crimson . . ib 

silk, lilac . . . ib 
thick silks, satins, silk stockings, &c. a 

flesh colour . . . ib 

silk stockings, black . ib 

straw and chip bonnets, black . ib 

tittto bonnets, brown . . ib 
to remove the stain of light colours from 

the hands . . . ib 

black cloth, green . . ib 

calico printing . . 89 

to apply the mordants . . ib 

stuffs for calico printing . . ib 

to, calico, yello-.v . . ib 

to, nankeen, yellow . . ib 

red, blue . . . ib 

lilac, brown, green . . ib 

to mix the solution of tin with indigo 90 

calico, dove colour and drab . ib 

different colours . . ib 
to prepare a substitute for gum used in 

calico printing . ■■ , ib 

Dyeing, calico, process of . . ib 
madder, colouring principle, to separate, 

new process for ' . . 89 

anatto for, to prepare . . 90 

use of . . . ib 

to choose . . ib 

litmus for, to prepare . , . lb 

bastard saffron for . . 91 

utility of sheep's dung for . ib 

woad for, to prepare . . ib 

indigo for, to prepare . . ib 

carmine for, do . . ib 

matter from potato-tops . . ib 

carpets . . . ib 

hats, process of . . ib 

wood for, to prepare . . 92 

blue turnsole for . . ib 

miscellaneous receipts for . ib 

to, red hair black . . ib 

hair, to change the colour of . ib 

bristles or feathers, green . ib 

blue and red . . ib 

horse-hair . . . ib 

gloves . , . ib 

white gloves, purple . . ib 

gloves resembling Limerick . ib 

bone and ivory, red . . ib 

black, green . . ib 



Dyeing, bone, purple, yellow, and blue , 93 

oak, a mahogany colour . , 93 

ebony, black . . , ib 

beech wood, a mahogany colour . ib 

musical instruments, crimsoa . ib 

purple . ib 

box-wood, brown. . * . ib 

wood, silver grey . , ib 

bright yellow . , ib 

green . . . ib 

red . . , )b 

purple . . . ib 

fine blue . . ib 

paper, or parchment, yellow . ib 

crimson, green . . ib 

orange, purple . , ib 

horn, tortoise-shell colour . 94 

of different colours . ib 

Dyspepsia . . . 205 

Dysentery . . . 206 

Ducks, choice of . . . 426 

E. 

Ear, inflammation of the, remedies for . 202 

accumulation of wax in the . ib 

extraneous bodies in the, to extract . 234 

Ear-ache, Indian cure for , . 397 

Earths and ores containing gold, to assay 9 

Eau de Barbade . . . 144 

sans pareil , , . 151 

divine . . . 144 

de bigarade . . .146 

de luce . . . 250 

de Cologne . . .187 

de melisse des carmes . . ib 

de bouquet . . .188 

Economy, rural and domestic . . 356 

Edge-tools, from cast iron and steel . 21 

Eels, to pot ... 165 

pie ... 169 

Eggs, glare of . . .53 

and bacon, artificial . . 165 

to preserve . . 360, 394 

qualities of . . . 403 

Electrical machinery, cushions of, alloy for 11 

Elixir, Daffy's . . .252 

Elephant's milk, to prepare . . 144 

Embroidery, to clean . . 100 

Embrocation, for tooth-ache and rheumatism 413 

Emissions, involuntary . 210 

Enamelling, act of . ^ ,71 

the flux . . .73 

Enamel, to, dial plates , . 72 

purple, used in moeaic . . ib 

white, for porcelain . . ib 

for metals and fine work . ib 

new, for porcelain . . ib 

-ed (rich), black, brown, blue, green, 

olive, purple, rose-coloured, yellow, 73 

modes of application . . ib 

Enamels, opaque, to prepare . . 72 

materials for . ib 

coloured, cautions in making . 74 

general method of making ib 

black, with platina, to obtain . ib 

called Niello, to make . . ib 

to paint in . . . ib 

encaustic painting, compound for colours 49 

Engrave, to, on stone . . 66 

on wood . . ^ .79 

on copper . . .76 

on chiar' oscuro . .80 

in aito relievo . , ,76 

in mezzo tinto . . .79 

in aqua tinta . , . ib 

on precious stones . . 80 

on steel . . , ib 



INDEX, 



437 



Engraving 


75 


Paniery 


different modes of 


it 


cows, inflammation of brain, method of c 


to choose copper for 


79 


hoven, or blown in, to cure . 


etching 


75 


do cordial drink . , 


materials 


ib 


swimming in the head, to cure . 


to lay on the ground 


ib 


sudorific drink for 


to trace the outlines 


ib 


horses, purgative ball for 


directions for 


ib 


do drinks 


to eat in the work 


ib 


cough drink ff)r 


on glass 


80 


anbuiy or wart 


tools, to whet and temper t 


lie graver 76 


staggers 


to hold the graver 


ib 


loss of appetite 


to lay the design upon the 


plate . ib 
iTor . 77 


inflamed bladder 


Rembrandt's white varnish 


blood spavin 


Callot's soft 


ib 


blistering ointment 


Salmon's 


ib 


bone spavin 


Parisian 


ib 


hots . . 2 


Lawrence's 


ib 


worms, symptoms of 


Le Bosse's hard 


78 


remedies for 


to blacken the varnish 


ib 


inflammation of the bowels 


soft, to take off . 


ib 


broken wind 


hard, do . • 


ib 


knees . 


to prepare box-wood for 


ib 


burns or scalds 


Engravings on glass, to transfer 


69 


canker 


Epilepsy 


213 


liniment for 


Erysipelas , 


215 


capped hocks 


mercurial 


ib 


cold . . 


Essence of cedrat 


148 


convulsions 


lavender . 


ib 


cough 


neroli 


ib 


ball for , , 


to obtain 


391 


corns , . , 


Essential oils, (see Oils) 


ib 


curb . , i 


Etch, to, upon glass 


80 


cracked heels 


Ether, to make 


. . 141 


the gripes . 


Evil, the king's 


212 


draught for 


Exercise, advantages of 


261 


diabetes . . . 


riding and walking 


ib 


ball for 


after meals 


ib 


eyes 


different kinds of , 


ib 


eye water 


standing and sitting 


ib 


film or cataract . 


Eye waters 


' . 235 


farcy 


lids, inflamed, remedy for 


ib 


grease 
foundered, feet 


sight, to preserve the 


262 


inflammation of the 


201 


hoof bound 


sore, original receipt for 


405 


lampas 

laxity 

inflammation of the lungs 


P. 




Fainting fits 


213 


mallenders 


Fallow, to conduct a 


313 


mange 


quantity of dung for 


319 


molten grease 


time of spreading do 


ib 


poll evil . . - 


intermediate dunging for 


ib 


poultice . . . 


Famished persons, to restore 


407 


quittor . 


Fans, for cleaning com 


317 


ring bone . . , 


Fasting day's dish, to make 


169 


sand crack . . 


Farriery 


264 


composition for 


cattle, wounds in to cure 


ib 


sit-fasts 


adhesive plaster 


265 


sallenders . . 


bandages 


ib 


strains 


sores and bruises 


ib 


strangury . , 


ointment for 


ib 


strangles 


greeu 


ib 


thrush . . , 


treatment of 


275 


vives 


food and regimen 


265 


wind galls , 


abncess . . 


ib 


wounds . . . 


bleeding in general 


' . 264 


bleeding . . „ 


distemper among 


274 


fulness of blood 


«ows, tar water for 


ib 


laxative, &o. powder . i 


garget in, to cure 


ib 


purging 


red v/ater in, to cure . 


ib 


to prepare for physic . 


scouring in, to cure 


ib 


to check over purging 


swelled with green food 


ib 


cough drink 


treatment of 


275 


purgative drink for 


colds of every descriptio 


n ih, to cure 278 


fever ball for 


purging drink for 


ib 


fevers, powerful mixture for ' . 


neat, to cure the jaundi 


36 in . 279 


inflammatory fever, drink for 


inflammation of the brai 


n . ib 


jaundice, purging ball for 

2JI7S 



438 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



Farriery 

horses, jaundice, restorative balls after 270 

broken wind, pectoral balls for ib 
surfeit, mange, &c. alterative balls for ib 
profuse stalling, restorative balls for ib 

astringent . 269 

worms, mercurial balls for . 2"0 

drink for . . . ib 

purging ball for . . ib 

stomach drink after expulsion . ib 

the staggers, balls for . ib 

convulsions, clyster for . ib 

gripes in, to cure . . ib 

further treatment . 271 

surfeit, or bad coat in, to cure . 272 

urine, balls for . . ib 

feet, to cure diseases in • ib 

prevention . • ib 

lameness in, remedy for . ib 

thrush in the feet, to cure . 273 

shoeing, in winter . . ib 

to prevent the feet from balling with 

snow . • . . ib 

the mange, ointment for . ib 

liniment for . . ib 

eye water for . . ib 

inflammation of the lungs . ib 

sprains, embrocation for . ib 

bracing mixture for . ib 

bleeding, paste to stop . ib 

scratched heels, ointment for . ib 

greasy do do . ib 

strains in different parts . ib 

embrocation for . . ib 

canker in the mouth, mixture for ib 

Feathers, to cleanse from animal oil . 398 

to dye, green, blue, red . . 92 

Feet, to keep them dry . . 262 

cold, to prevent, at night . . 407 

Females, cautions to, whose clothes catch fire 408 

diseases peculiar to . -. 242 

Fermentation by various means . 118 

of yeast, to manage . . 108 

to accelerate . . . ib 

to check a too rapid . ib 

vinous . . . 123 

spirituous . . . ib 

of wine, to stop the . , 133 

Fever, simple, inflammatory . , 198 

intermittent . , . 199 

remittent . . . ib 

bilious . . r ib 

typhus . . .200 

putrid . . . ib 

hectic . , . ib 

scarlet . . .215 

milk . . .. 245 

puerperal . . . ib 

Figs, dried, to improve . . 412 

Filberts, to preserve . . 301> 

Filtering bag, to make a . . 137 

Fining of wines . . . 423 

spirits . . . 143 

Finings, to make and apply . . 136 

of white wines and spirits, to torce down 

the ... ib 

Fires, recent, to extinguish . . 395 

to escape from . . . ib 

in distilleries, to extinguish . 1 iO 

to prevent and escape from . ib 

to escape from . . 395 

in steam-boats . . . 400 

in theatres . , . 401 

to extinguish in chimneys . 408 

effectually . . ib 

in manufactories, security against . 409 

in hay stacks , ... ib i 



Fish, qualities of 

Fish bones, remedy on swallowing 

en matelotte, (see Cookery) 
Fistula 

Flatulency, remedy for 
Flax, to cultivate 

to prepare the ground for . 

quantity of seed for 

seed, to save the 

mode of watering 

dressing, Lee's invention for, &o. &c. 

new discovery for preparing 
FlieSj to remove from rooms 

to prevent from settling on animals 
Flounders, with cream 
Floui", paste, to make 

new seconds, bad, to improve 

to preserve 

moist, to correct 

chalk in, to detect 

to restore and improve 
Flowers, for distillation, to preserve 

to preserve 

to grow in winter 

to remove in summer 

bulbous, to hasten the blowing of 

faded, to restore 

to diy 

to paint in water colours 
Flower, sun, to cultivate 

to economize tne , 

seeds, to preserve . 

Flute key valves, alloy for 
Flux 

remedy for . . 

metallic composition of 

crude or white, black . 

Cornish, reducing 
refining 
Foils, to prepare . . 

copper, for 

to whiten . 

for, crystals, pebbles, &c. to give the 
lustre of diamonds 

to colour 

liquid for silvering glass globes 
Food, animal and vegetable, to preserve 

animal and vegetable 
qualities of . 
Fowls, treatment of . 

qualities of 

choice of 

game fashion 

wild 
do to catch 

Fractures, of the nose, jaw, collar hone, arm, 
fore-arm, wrist, ribs, thigh, leg, knee- 



pan, foot 
Freezing mixture . 
Fresco, to paint in . 
Friction 

Frost-bitten parts, treatment of 
Fruits, time for gathering 

orchard, to gather 

green, to preserve 

ripe . . 

various sorts of . 

to store 

to preserve in brandy 

for carriage, to pack 

to paint, in water colours 
Frumenty, to make . 
Fuel, cheap, to make 
FulliDg cloths, woollens, &c. 
Fuller's purifier, &c. (see Bleaching) 
Furnace, portable, to use a . 

fixed, to build a 



223—2 



INDEX. 



Furnace, sand-heat, to make a 
Furniture, varnished, to polish 

paste, to make 

oil 

to clean • 

Furs, to preserve . 

G. 



Gall stones, to remove 
Gallipot varnish, to make 

mastic, for grinding colours 
Ganglion 

Gardeners, practical directions to 
Gardens, to water 

to choose the hest soil for . 

to prepare hot beds, composts and 
nures for . . 

to form dung beds for 

to make composts for manure 

mould 

plants . 

to prepare composts for 
Gas, to make, from coal tai* 
General rules for preserving health 

Sir R.Phillips's rules 

Dr Boerhaave's do . 

air . 

clothing . 

ventilation of churches . 
of houses . . 

burying in churches 

fumigation 

noxious vapours 

to dissipate do in wells 

to protect artisans from effects of char- 
coal 

to prevent ill effects from lamps 

to disinfect articles from the plague 

10 protect gilders from mercury 
Geneva, English, to make 
Gentian water, compound 
Gild glass and porcelain, to 

leather, to . 

writings, drawings, &c. on parchment 

edges of paper, to 

silk, satin, ivory, 8tc. by hydrogen gas 

on wood, with oil, to 

by burnishing, to 

copper, &e. by amalgam, to 

steel, to t . 

copper, so as to be rolled out into sheets 

in colours, to . 

iron, or steel, with a solution of gold 

by dissolving gold in aqua regia, to 

by amalgamation, to 
viilding . . 

gold powders for . 

Grecian . . 

mordant varnish for 

metal . . 

for common jewellery 
Gin, to prepare, ■as in Holland . 

rectification, in Holland . 
Ginger beer, to make 

powders . 

drops . . 

bread, plain . . 177, 

to candy . 

Glass and porcelain, to paint and stain 

to cement . 

to draw on . 

globes, liquid foils for silvei-ing 

to ornameal, in imitation of engraving 

to break, iu any required way 

to varnish 

to etch upon 



139 

31 

ib 

ib 

389 

387 



406 

27 

ib 

219 

SIO 

291 

284 

ma- 

285 

ib 

ib 

ib 

286 

ib 

391 

260 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

261 

2^1 

261, 407 

2G1 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

143 

153 

14 

15 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

16 

ib 

ib 

17 

ib 

ib 

ib 

14 

16 

17 

28 

12 

ib 

142 

ib 

156 

392 

182 

413, &c. 

181 

68 

105 

69 

11 

375 

376 

33 

80 



simple method, as applied to thermometers ib 



Glass jars, to make them resemble China 

to manufacture 

for looking-glass plates . . 

crown or best window . , 

cheaper kind of ditto 

common or green window . , 

best phial . . . 

common do . . . 

green, or bottle . . 

with scoria . . , 

the most perfect flint 

cheaper composition of . 

best German crystal . . 

to anneal 

to polish and grind . ■ 

to make frit for 

to bring pearl ashes to the highest degree 
of purity 

to purify pearl ashes for the manufacture 
of mirrors . 

and pastes to imitate precious stones 

best and hardest for i-eceiving colour 
softer 

soft, for receiving colours . 

hard, of a full blue colour 

paste, of do • 

hard, resembling the sapphire 

cheaper do 

paste, resembling the sapphire 

hard do, by means of smalt 

hard, resembling eagle marine 

paste for do . 

hard, of a gold yellow colour 

paste for do ' . 

hard, resembling the topaz . 

paste do . . . 

resembling the chrysolite . 

paste do . . . 

hard, resembling the emerald 

paste do . . . 

hard, of a deep purple colour 

paste do . . . 

hard, resembling the amethyst 

paste, do . , . 

resembling the diamond 

hard, perfectly black 

paste do . . . 

white opake . . 

paste of an opake whiteness 

of do, formed by arsenic 

hard, or paste, formed by calx of tin or 
antimony 

semi-transparent white, and paste resem- 
bling the opal 

fins red, resembling the ruby 

paste do . . . 

cheaper do . . 

hard, resembling the garnet 

paste do 

hard, resembling the vinegar garnet . 

paste do . . . 

fictitious or counterfeit lapis lazuli . 

resembling red cornelian [. 

paste do . . . 

hard, resembling white cornelian 

paste do . . . 

hard, or paste, resembling the turquoise 
stone 

brown Venetian, with gold spangles 
Glands, inflamed 
Glasses, optical, to polish . 

Glaziers, cautions to 

Glazings for earthen ware, &c. (see Pottery) 
Gleet ... 

Gloves, to tan skins in white for 

to cleanse, without wetting 

to dye, different colours 



4»i 

395 

376 

377 

ib 

ib 
ib 
ib 
ib 
ib 
ib 
ib 
ib 
ib 
ib 
ib 
ib 

379 

lb 
ib 
ib 
ib 
ib 
ib 

380 
ib 
ib 
ib 
it) 
ib 
lb 
ib 
ib 
ib 
ib 
ib 
ib 
ill 
ib 
ib 
ib 
ib 
ib 
ib 
ib 

^$81 
ib 
ib 
ib 

ib 

ib 
ib 
ib 
ib 
ib 
ib 
ib 
ib 
ib 
S82 
ib 
ib 
ib 

ib 
ib 
212 
379 
243 
372 
210 
282 
100 
93 



440 



UOTVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



ttloves, to wash gentlemen's . . 391 

Glue, portable, to make . , 385 

to resist moisture . . ib 

parchment . , ib 

strong compound . . ib 

isinglass . ... ib 

Laplander's . . . 412 

Goat's flesh, qualities of . . 402 

skins in oil, to prepare , . 282 

Godfrey's cordial for children . . 252 

Goitre . . . .213 

Qold, ores and earths to assay . . 9 

mixed with pyrites, humid assay of . ib 

solder, to prepare . . 13 

with platinum, useful alloy of . ib 

ring, to prepare . . ib 

from 35s. to 40s. per oz. . . ib 

Manheim or similor . . ib 

chemical test for . . 392 

powders, for gilding, to prepare . 16 

to dissolve in aqua regia . . 17 

amalgam of, in the large way . ib 

yellow, to heighten the colour of . 18 

green, do . . . ib 

red, do . . . ib 

to separate from gilt copper and silver ib 

cordial, to make . . 146 

liquid, for vellum painting . 53 

or silver, ground for . . ib 

lace, to clean . ~. . 388 

Goose, choice of . . , 426 

Gout, remedies for . . 211, 240 

rheumatic . . . 401 

Chelsea pensioner's remedy for . 240 

cordial, to make . . ib 

Portland powder for . . ib 

lotion . . . 212 

Pradier's cataplasm for . . ib 

Gonorrhoea • , . 210 

Gooseberries, qualities of . 404 

to preserve . . . 187 

Gooseberry cheese, green, to make , 172 

Grain, to preserve from vermin . 337 

to sow, by ribbing . . 326 

damaged, to correct . , 361 

Grass, cut for hay, to manage . . 340 

Graft, trees, to . . . 288 
Grafting materials, clay to prepare, whip, 
cleft, crown, saddle, side, shoulder, 

root . . 288, 289 

coffee tree . . , 298 

luting for . . .418 

Grape house, mode of storing a . 296 

Grapes, to mature . . 297 

to prevent their dropping off . ib 

to retard their sap . . ib 

to protect from wasps . . 298 

to preserve . . . 310 

Gravel walks, to make . . 284 

treatment of the . . 208 

remedies for the . . 406 

Gravy cakes •. . 176, 415 
Grease spots,(see Scouring, &c,) to remove 412 

Grfeen house, to make a . . 286 

Grind-stones, to make . . 396 

Grottoes, to embellish . . 395 

coral for, artificial . . ib 

Gruel, water, to make . . 254 

Gum elastic, to dissolve . . 33 

benzoin, oil of, to obtain . . 149 

Gun barrels, to brown . . 31 

powder, to make . , 392 

metal . . .12 



H. 

liair, honey water for the 
red, to dye black 



IBS 
92 



Hair, colour of, to change the . , jb 

horse, to dye . . .94 

powders . . . 192 

for wigs, to prepare , , 395 

Hams, mutton . . . 397 

to salt . . .186 

pie, raised . . . 168 

qualities of . , , 402 

Hangings, to restore . . . 101 

Harrowing, best method of .315 

Harrows, to construct . . ib 

Hartshorn jelly, to make . .183 

Hats, to dye . . .91 

to preserve . . .391 

Hay making, best mode of . . 344 

Yorkshire way of . . ib 

cut grass for . . . ib 

stacks, to save from fire . 409 

Head-ache, to relieve . . 201 

in bed . . . 408 

Health, preservation of . . 260 

exercise, riding and walking, exercise 
after meals, kinds thereof, reading, 
wind instruments, friction, getting wet, 
precautions in removing from a hot to a 
cold situation, to keep the feet dry, to 
prevent cold feet at night 261, 262 

to prevent the effects of drinking cold li- 
quors when heated, to remedy the effects 
of dram drinking, to procure sleep, the 
air bath . . . 40S 

to preserve the eye sight, use of specta- 
cles . . 262, 263 
cosmetics . . . 263 
the teeth, picking the teeth, tooth pow- 
ders, loose teeth, foul teeth, cleansing 
the teeth, to clean and preserve the 
teeth, diseases of the teeth, 263, 264 
warts . , . 234 
to prevent corns . . . ib. 
Heartburn, remedies for . 205, 239 
Heat, excessive, or strokes of the sun, to guard 

against . . . 213 

Heating, to preserve animal and vegetable sub- 
stances by, in well closed vessels . 394 



Hedges, thorn, to plant 

young, to protect 
Hedge-hog, usefulness of the 
Hemp, to cultivate 

to prepare the ground for 

quantity of seed, &c. for 

method of sowing 

after culture 

process of grassing 

to fix a mineral yellow on 
Herrings, to use economically 

to cure 
Herpes 

Hiccup, to remove the 
Hides, or skins, to tan 
Hip-joint disease . 
Hops, to cultkvate 

the soil, &c. for . 

to plant 

to choose 

seasons for planting 

to form a new plantation of 

ground, to take up 

extra works for . 

manure for the culture of 



to pick, dry, bag, dress, pole, tie, gather 343 



gentian root, substitute for 
Honey water for the hair 

to manage 

to take, without destroying the bees 

to clarify 
Horehound, candied to make 



349 

ib 

337 

339 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

84 

172 

359 

216 

205 

280 

212 

341 

ib 

. ib 

ib 

ib 

342 

ib 

Jb 

ib 



394 
152 
366 
ib 
186 
ISl 



INDEX. 



441 



iiorn, to dye, various eolours . 
Horses, diseases of, (see Farriery) 

rules for feeding witii straw 

sore backs of, to cur* 

infallible lotion for bruises in 

sick, to make drink 

to bring out of a stable on fire 
"lot beds 

house, plants in . 
Horticulture 
Hortus siccus 
Hooping cough, remedies for . 

regimen, 8cc. . . 

Hunger and thirst — to restore famished persons 

cautions respecting . 

Hungary waters . . 

Husbandry . . 

implements of . 
Hydrophobia . . 

guaco, in . . 

Hydrometer, Fahrenheit's 
Hysteric fits 



94 

264 
346 
415 

ib 
417 
391 

28 
291 
284 
387 
249 

ib 
407 

ib 
152 
311 
314 
222 
398 
384 
242 



Ice, to make . . . S60 

from a powder, to procure . ib 

cream, to make . . 183 

house, portable, to make a . 359 

for culinary purposes, to produce . ib 

Impotency . . .211 

Inclosures, to form , . . 349 

Indian shields, to prepare varnish for . 35 

Indigo, for dyeing, to prepare , . 91 

Inflammation, inordinate, to diminish . 231 

various remedies for . . ib 

in the bowels, remedy for . . 206 

Inflammatory diseases, treatment of . 197 

Injuries, external, treatment of , 221 

Indigestion and debility, treatment of . 205 

gentian wine . . . 238 

chalybeate . . . ib 

stomachic . . , ib 

powerful tonic . . . ib 

for debility of the stomach . ib 

stomachic aperient pills . . ib 

tonic draught, in cases of great debility ib 

, Dr Bailey's prescription for . ib 

Dv Abernethy's . . . ib 

Dr Babington's . . . 397 

to remove, &e, after eating . ib 

to remedy flatulency . . 238 

nightmare, remedies for . . ib 

I hiccuj) . . ' . 205 

digestive pills . . , 239 

to improve digestion . , ib 

to restore the appetite . . ib 

aloetic and assafoetida pills . ib 

heartburn . . . ib 

Insects, stings and bites . . 222 

Instruments, musical, to stain . .93 

Interment, premature . . 405 

Inks, &c. . . . ;93 

common black . . . ib 

shining . . . 194 

the best . . . ib 

indelible, without galls . . ib 

indestructible, for resisting the action 

corrosives . . . ib 

powder, the be^t . . ib 

for immediate use . . ib 
a fine black, for common use and the 

copying press , . 193 

lithographic . . .67 

exchequer, to make . . 194 

red . . . ib 

from vermilion . ib 

3 F 



Ink, red, permanent . . . 195 

green, writing, to make . . ib 

yellow . . . ib 

blue . . ib 

copperplate printer's . . ib 

pnnter's . . , ib 

fine black printing . . ib 

best do . . . ib 

good common do . . ib 

printer's red . . . ib 

blue . . . ib 

perpetual, for writing on tombs, &o. ib 

Indian, to make . . 195 

substitute for . . ib 

for printing linen with types . 393 

permanent, for marking linen . 195 

sympathetic . . 196, 405 

nitro-muriates of gold and tin . 196 

gallate of iron 
nitro-muriate of cobalt 
sympathetic, various 
to prevent from freezing 
to prevent mould in 
to take out spots of 
to make new writing seem old 
to write on greasy paper or parchment 
to restore decayed writings 
to take impressions from recent manuscripts ib 
to produce a fac-simile of writing 
substitute for copying machines 
to copy writings 
to take cat writing . , 

Intestines, inflammation of 

Iron ores, to assay 
humid assay of . 
to plate 
vessels, to tin 

ore, to reduce into malleable 
to shingle and manufacture, new way 
to weld, approved method 
common hardening of 
polished, to preserve from rust 
case hardening of 

to convert into steel by cementation 
cast, way of softening 

Isinglass jelly, to make . 

Itch, ointment for 

Ivory, to gild 

to polish and soften 

and bone black, to make 

to paint on 

for miniatures, to prepare • 

to cut and paste 
to sketch portraits on 
to dye various colours 
mode of silvering 



ib 
ib 
ib 
ib 
ib 
197 
ib 
ib 



ib 

ib 

ib 

101 

206 

6 

ib 

18 

ib 

20 

ib 

ib 

ib 

387 

20 

ib 

399 

254 

216, 234 

15 

32 

36 

CO 

ib 

61 

60 

92 

93 



Jam, raspberry, to make 

strawberry 
Japan black 

Jasmin, essence de, to make 
Jaundice, remedies for 
Jaw, locked 

Jessamine water, to prepare 
Jellies, (see Confectionary) 
Jelly, ismglass 

hartshorn, currant, &c. &c, 

calves-foot 

ivory 

strawberry 
Jumbles 

Juniper, compound spirit of 
Jujubes, pate de . 

Joints, cartilage in 

wounds of . 



184 
ib 
39 
188 
205 
214 
151 
183 
254 
183, 184 
413 
249 
184 
413 
153 
184 
212 
2^ 



442 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



K. 



Kail, sea, to cultivate 


305 


Kid skin, to prepare . 


282 


Kidneys, an vin 


165 


i.iflaiumation of the 


208 


Knee-joint, dropsy of 


212 


Knives and forks, to clean 


388 


KrurahoU'z oil, to procure . 


149 


Kustitien's metal for tinning 


13 



Lace, to wash . . .97 

veils, vhite, to clean . . ib 

black, do , . ib 

point, to clean and starch . . ib 

gold and embroidery, to clean . 388 

Lamb, qualities of . . . 402 

choice of . . . 426 

Lamps, to prevent being pernicioas to asthma- 
tic persons . . . 261 
to trim and clean . . 389 
to prevent smoking . . 395 

Land, arable, management of . . 325 

seven rotations of crops . , ib 

to apply manures to . . 319 
pismiies on grass, to prevent increase of 336 

VO destroy slugs on ■ . . 337 

Lands, clay, to underdrain . . 347 
to drain ... 348 

pit draining . . . ib 

Bailey's directions for draining . ib 

to construct main drains for . ib 

to fill drains for . . ib 

Landscapes, rules for painting in water colours 56 

to prepare . . . ib 

to select the colours for . . ib 

Lamp black, to make paints from . 36 

Lead ores, to assay . . 6 

in the humid way . . ib 

Chinese sheet, to prepare . .18 

red, to make . . .40 

sub,-acetate of . . . 392 

Leaden-tree, to prepare the . .18 

Lacker for brass, to prepare . . 27 

philosopliical instruments . ib 
gold coloured, for brass watch cases, &c. ib 

of a less drying quality . . ib 

Lackers of various lints, to make . 28 

Lavender, oil of, (foreign) to obtain . 148 

spirit . . . 153 

water, to prepare . . ib 

second order , . ib 

for immediate use . . ib 

perfumed . . io 

Lawns, to wash and starch . . 97 

Leather, to gild , . .15 

to render water proof . . 30, 31 

chairs, to restcre the blackness of . 32 

sheep, lo prepare, by dyeing . 281 

morocco, to manufacture real . ib 

fc.j convert old parchrxent into . 283 

to preserve from mould . . 284 

tn currv , . . ib 

morocco and shet-p, tc dye . ib 
in imitation of mc rocco, to manufacture 

from South American horse hides 282 

Russia, to manufacture . , ib 

fjeeclies, application ot . . 231 

,emonade, portable . , , 157 

,emon cordial, to make . 14S 

jaife, preservation of . , 399 

peel, to candy . .181 

■water, to prepare • .153 

eprusy, lotion for . . 233 

■prous afleetions of t!.e skin, to cure , ib 

jetters, to disinfect, of the plague , 261 

Ley, saponaceous, for washing ^ gj* 



Life boat, description of the 
safe, and readily constructed 
general rules for preserving 
Light, to produce instantaneous 
Lightning, to guard against 
Lime, to burn, without kilns 

juice, to preserve 
Linen, to render water proof . 

cloth for screens, &c. to thicken 

to remove iron moulds from 

mildew on, to take out 

to bleach 

and cotton, to dye, blue, yellow, red, 

let, and black , 

washing and cleaning 
Liniment, compound soap , 

of ammonia 
Lip salve, rose and white, to make 
Liqueurs, to make 

anisette de Bourdeaux . 
creme de Barbadoes, real 
noyeau de Martinique 
d 'orange of superior flavour 
eau de Barbades 

divine 
elephant's milk 
- huile de Venus . 
liquedilla 
raarasquin de groseilles 

(French) a new liqueur 
ratafia de angelique 
de cafe 
cassia 
cerises 
chocolat 
grenoble 
noix (brou) 
noyeau 
d 'oranges (ecorces) 

(fleurs) 
a la violette 
usquebaugh 
Liquid paste, with drying oil, to make 
Liquors, cold, to prevent bad effects of 
Liquorice lozenges, to make 
extract of, to make 
juice of, to prepare 
refined, to prepare 
Lithography 

to print designs with porcelain plates 
to apply it to wood engraving 
to take impressions on paper from 
signs made on stone 
Lithographic pencils, to make 
stone, cheap substitute for 
ink, i'henard and Blainville's 
Litter, straw, as applicable to 
Litmus, for dyeing, to prepare 
Liver, inflammation of the 
Looking glasses, to plate 

kc. to clean 
Lobsters and crabs, to pot 

to choose 
Looseness, to check . 
Lovage cordial, to make 
Lozenges, liquorice . 
black pectoral . 
Lumbago . 

Lute?!, to make 
Luting, for grafting . 



257 

25J 

26C 

393 

406 

323 

399 

29,41 

29 

99 

100 

95 

ir- 

84,85 

396 

250 

ib 

190 

144 

ib 

ib 

145 

ib 

144 

ib 

ib 

145 

ib 

ib 

ib 

144 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

145 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

146 

145 

29 

408 

182 

ib 

ib 

183 

66 



de- 



M. 

Maccaroni, to make a dish of 
Macaroons, diiferent kinds 
Magnesia, liquid 
Madder, to cultivate 
use of . 



175 

179, 413 

157 

343 

344 



INDEX. 



443 



Mahogany, to take stains out of 
Malt, to make 

to grind . • 

to determine qualities of . 

to brew four bushels of 

liquor, thick, sour, to recover 

to vamp 

foxing in, tf prevent and cure 

to protect from electricity 

to bottle 
Manganese ore, to assay 

humid assay of • 

Manheira gold, to prepare 
Manures 

to prepare 

to manage dung upon light lauds 
heavy lands 

to spread d".ng . 

application of, to turnips . 
to potatoes . 

to clayey soils . 

quantity of dung for fallows 

time of spreading dung . 

intermediate dunging 

to increase thp quantity by soiling 

composts for, to make . 
Lord Meadowbank's . 

to convert moss into 

use of lime as . . 

application of marl 
shelly land 

clayey and stone marls 
alga marina or sea weed 

burning the surface for 

Mr Curwen's mode . 

to burn moss -with the ashes 

use of peat and peat ashes 
coal ashes 

to decompose green vegetables for 

use of bone 

moss . ' . 

various substances used as 

use of plaster of Paris 

to apply blubber as 

application of, to land 
Manuscripts, renovation of 
Maps, wash, colours for 
Maple, sugar, juice of, to extract, without 

juring the tree 
Marble, to, the edges of paper 

covers of books , 

to clean 

to colour 

to stain, red, or yellow . 

to give, a blue colour 

to prepare brimstone in imitation of 
Matting, gold 

Marine spencer, description of 
Marmalade, (see Confectionary) 
Mastich, Greek, or maltha 
Meadows, to water . . 

Measles . 

Measure of fluids 
Measuring glasses, for do . 

Meats, inc. to boil . . 

to bake . , 

to roajt 

to boil . . 

to fry 

to salt 

to pickle 

to preserve without salt . . 

to choose 
Medicines, useful, domestic 

almond milk, to prepare . 

ammonia, pure water of 
auetated 



101 

106 

107 

ib 

111 

115 

ib 

116 

117 

120 

7 

ib 

13 

317 

ib 

ib 

ib 

318 

ib 

ib 

319 

ib 

ib 

ib 

320 

ib 

ib 

321 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

322 

ib 

ib 

ib 

323 

ib 

ib 

324 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

325 

394 

53 

417 

94 

ib 

100 

70 

ib 

ib 

ib 

16 

257 

183 

103 

348 

515 

264 

ib 

163 

ib 

164 

ib 

ib 

398 

399 

417 

424 

250 

160 

253 

ib 



Medicines, useful, domeslie 

balsam of Riga . ' . 

Godbold's vegetable , 

of honey . , 

beef ♦°a, to make 
camphor mixture, to prepare 
chalk do . 

cerate, Turner's 

of Spanish flies 
coi'dial, Godfrey's 
drop, the black . 
draught, saline 

extemporaneous effervescing 
eau-de-luce 

elixir, Dafly's . , 

gruel, water, to prepare 
isinglass jelly, &o. 
liniment of ammonia 

compound soap , 

lozenges, black pectoral . 

white pectoral 
ointment, simple . ' 

of hog's lard 

basilicon and yellow resinous 
mercurial 
opodeldoc, cajeput 
panada, to make , 

pills, aloetie and myrrh 

compound . 

assafoLtida , 

Plummer's . 

plaster, adhesive 
court 

labdanura, compound . 
pitch. Burgundy . 

powders, aloetie, with iron 
Dover's sudorific 
Seidlitz 
salve, lip, to make 
sarsaparilla, dedoetion of . 

compound 
soup, for convalescents, transparent 
squills, oxymel of 
syrup of ginger 
poppies 
squills 
violets 
tar Mater 

tincture of benzoin, compound 
catechu 
ginger 
guaiacum 

ammoniated 
Peruvian bark 
Huxham's 
compound 

senna . . 

balsam of Tolu 
Medicines, purgative, (see Purgative) 

for worms, (see Worms) . 
Medlars, to preserve 
Melons, irregular growth, to prevent 

to preserve 
Menses, the 
Mercurial ores, to assay 

sulphuretted 
Mercurial disease 
Mercuiy, to protect gilders from the injurious 

efi'ects of . 

Metallurgy 

ores, assaying of 
roasting 
fluxes for 
Cornish, reducing flux for 

refining . 

humid assay of 
casts from copper engravings 



444 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



Metal] ur^ 

injection . . .11 

for cusluons of electrical machinery ib 

for varnisiiing figures . ib 

watering or for blanc raoire , 18 

metallographical application of fusible 

alloys . . .11 

Metals, compound or alloys . 9 

metal, Batli, to prepare , . 11 

brass . . . ib 

solder for iron . . 13 

bell, to prepare . . 12 

bronze . . . ib 

copper, blanched . . ib 

yellow dipping . . ib 

fusible alloys . . 10 

gilding . . .12 

for common jewellery . ib 

gun, to prepare . . ib 

Kustitieu's, for tinning . 13 

liquid foils for glass globes . 11 

pewter, common . . 10 

best . . . ib 

hard . . . ib 

plated, to assay . . 18 

platina, mock . . 12 

queen's . . . 9 

. silver, imitation of . .12 

solder for jewellers . 13 

plating . . ib 

solder, common . .10 

hard . . . ib 

soft . . . ib 

for steel joints . . 13 

specula of telescopes . . 12 

tombac . . .10 

red . . . ib 

vhite . , . ib 

tutania, or Britannia . . 12 

German . . ib 

Spanish . . ib 

Engestroom . . 13 

tutenag . . ib 

type . . . ib 

•white . . .10 

gold, (ring) . . .13 

from 35s. to 40». per 02. . ib 

to clean all sorts of . . 100 

Mezzotint, to engrave in . .79 

Mildew in wheat . . . 328 

to remove . . . ib 

to prevent . . . ib 

Milk, qualities of . . . 402 

and cream, substitutes for . 360 

and butter, to free from the turnip flavour ib 

to preserve . . . SS3 

Miniature painting . . .60 

different articles used in . . ib 

choice of brushes . . ib 

Miniatures, ivory for, to prepare . ib 

manner of sketching . ib 

colours to be employed in . ib 

in sketching a female he!<d . ib 

use and advantage of body colours . 1 

to cut and paste the ivory for . ib 

to sketch portraits . . ib 

use of magnifying glass • . 6^ 

to execute light hair for . . ' ib 

to represent velvets wnd satins . ib 

white feathers . . ib 

to gild in body colours . . 63 

linen, lace and gauze . . ib 

pearls on the flesh . , ib 

colours used in sketching from nature ib 

to adjust the drapery . , 64 

to execute the back ground , ib 

primitive colours and combinations . ib 



Miniatures 

discovery of new substances 

to lay body colours on the palette 
Mint, oil of, to procure 
Miscellaneous receipts, medicinal 
Morocco, real, to manufacture 

red, to prepare 

imitation of 

to dye 
Mosaic gold 

to manufacture 
Moths, to drive away 
Mortars, to prepare 

impenetrable 
Mortification 
Mosquetoes, bites of 
Moss, as manure 
Mucilaginous oils 
Muffins, to make 
Mum, to make 
Mushrooms, to produce 

to pickle 
Musical instruments, to stain 
Mussels, qualities of ° 

Mustard, to cultivate 
Mutton, qualities of 

shoulder of 

choice of , 

to carve 
Myrtl^ water, to distil 



Napoleon's pectoral pilts 
Nectar to make 

Editor's 
Needham's portable machine, to brew by 
Neroli, essence of, to procure . 
Nettle-rash 
Nickel ore, to assay 

in the humid way 
Nightmare, remedies for 

cautions respecting 
Nitre, strong spirit of 

colourless 
Noyeau, to make 
Nutmegs, oil of, to procure 



64 

65 
148 
231 
281 
280 
282 
284 
9 

14 
337 
103 

ib 
230 
222 
324 
160 
178 
160 
302 
185 

93 
403 
359 
402 
165 
426 
419 
151 



236 
146 
122 
113 
148 
217 
7 

ib 
233 
238,400 
156 

ib 
147 
148 



O. 

Oaks, to raise, the best method > . 350 

to dye, a mahogany colour . 93 

ebony black . . ib 

Oats, qualities of . . . 403 

varieties of . . . 331 

to prepare the ground for . . ib. 

quantity of seed for . . ib 

to harvest 

for horses, to make them prove doubly 
nutritious 

hruised 
Odours, unpleasant, to remove 
Oil and water colours, (see Colours) 
Oils, essential, &c. 

oil of anise-seed, to obtain 



caraway 

birch 

cajeput . 

camomile 

cassia 

cinnamon 

cloves 

gum benzoin 

hartshorn rectified 

Krumholz 

lavender, foreign 

mint 

nutmegs 



ib 

356 

418 

387 

36 

148 

ib 

ib 

149 

148 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

149 

ib 

ib 

148 

ib 

ib 



INDEX. 



445 



Oils, essential, &c. 




Oyster powder, to make . 


137 


oil of peppermint . 


148 


Oysters, qualities of . 


403 


penny-royal 


ib 


to stew . . 


» 157 


pimento 


ib 


roasted, fine 


ib 


riiodium . 


ib 






rosemary , 


149 


P. 




rue • . 


ib 


Painter's cream, to make 


25 


sassafras . 


ib 


Paint, to, sail-dotli water-proof 


29 


tar 


ib 


on silks, satins, &c. 


66 


thyme . . 


ib 


in enamel . . 


74 


tui'pentine . 


ib 


in varnish, on wood 


39 


rectified 


ib 


white distemper 


36 


■wine 


142 


light grey and do 


ib 


wormwood , 


. - 149 


fresco . 


40 


and mucilages 


160 


fire places and hearths 


ib 


oil gilding on wood 


15 


to stain glass and porcelain 


68 


of linseed, to mix the mineral 


sub- 


improved method 


ib 


stances in 


48 


colours, proper to be used for do 


. , ib 


poppy, to give it a drying quality 


22 


manner of using them 


ib 


siccitive 


40 


colour for grounds on glass 


69 


fat 


22 


lake, to prepare for do 


ib 


furniture, to make 


31 


blue, purple, green 


ib 


resinous, diying 


23 


yellow and white 


ib 


fo;: watch-work, &c. to prepare 


32, 397 


engraving on glass, to transfer 


ib 


Otis, mucilaginous, &c. 


160 


metallic calces and precipitates of g 


old 


oil of sweet almonds, to make 


ib 


to prepare 


ib 


beech-nut 


161 


oxide of cobalt . 


ib 


hazel-nut 


160 


zaffre ' . . . 


ib 


mace , 


ib 


purple precipitate of Cassius 


ib 


by expression . 


ib 


coloured drawings on glass 


ib 


from grape stones, to extract 


161 


glass black . . ' 


70 


of olives, salad, or sweet 


160 


blue, carnation 


ib 


castor , 


ib 


green, gold colour 


ib 


do mixture 


206 


black, to make . 


35 


croton 


161 


from lamp black, to make . 


36 


rape 


ib 


pit coal . 


ib 


do to purify . 
vegetable, to purify 


ib 


wine kes . 


ib 


ib 


white 


ib 


pumpkin, to make 


ib 


economical white, house 


37 


Oils, animal, and fats, &c. 


ib 


pearl grey 


ib 


hog's lard . 


ib 


flaxen grey 


ib 


oil, trotter or neat's foot . 


ib 


Prussian blue . 


46 


to purify 


ib 


beautiful green . 


40 


from yolks of eggs 


ib 


Painting, house . 


35 


spermaceti, to refine . 


162 


dtier for 


40 


Greenland whale and seal, to ref 


ne ib 


encaustic, compound for receiving the 


co- 


to extract from stone or marble 


391 


lours 


49 


out of boards . . 


ib 


on wax, Grecian method 


ib 


fish, to purify, and apply the rei 


use 


vellum, liquid gold fo? 


53 


to useful purposes . 


162 


silver for 


ib 


for making hard soap, to prepare 


163 


in crayons 


> 56 


Ointment, simple, to prepare . 


251 


implements . 


ib 


of hog's lard . . . 


ib 


drawing the outlines 


ib 


yellow, resinous . . 


ib 


from life 


ib 


mercurial . . . 


ib 


.posture and light 


57 


Olio, to make an . 


166 


features of the face 


ib 


Omelette, military, to make a . 


169 


the neck 


ib 


onion • 


ib 


draperies, &c. 


58 


French . . , 


ib 


to prepare coloured crayons, &c. 


ib 


souflle . 


184 


arrangement of do . 


59 


Onions, to cultivate . 


303 


ivory and miniature, (see Miniature) 


60 


Portuguese way of , . 


304 


velvet 


65 


to obtain a good crop of 


ib 


materials required 


ib 


qualities of . , , 


404 


subjects for . . 


ib 


to pickle . 


184 


appropriate colours 


ib 


Or molu 


9 


compound . , 


66 


Orange cordial, to make 


147 


directions for 


ib 


marcaalade , . . 


183 


Palsy, treatment of 


213 


flower water • . . 


151 


Panada 


254 


drops • . . 


182 


Paper, to gild the edges cf 


15 


paste for hands . . 


189 


black do do 


94 


to candy 


181 


to dye various colours 


93 


to preserve . , , 


187 


to render fire proof 


408 


Orchards, to manage 


293 


to remove spots of grease from 


412 


Orgeat paste, to make . 


184 


hangings, to cJean 


101 


Oxalic acid, to detect » 


408 


to colour 


7M 


Oxymel of squills . , 


253 


to resist moisture 


409 



2 JV 



446 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



Paper, for draughtsmen 


418 


Papier mache, to make 


32 


Parchment, old, to convert into leath 


er . 283 


to make 


ih 


to dye, various colours 


93 


Parsley, qualities of 


404 


Parsnips, do 


ib 


mode of cultivating in Guernsey 


338 


Parting;, process of . 


19 


by aqua-fortis 


ib 


by cementation . ^ . 


ib 


dry . . . 


20 


Partridge, aux choux 


167 


Paste, liq'iid, to make 


29 


Chinese, to make 


385 


flour 


ib 


Wai-d's, for the piles 


234 


furniture 


31 


puff 


172 


short 


ib 


for tarts, &c. 


ib 


Pastry, &c. 


177 


qualities of 


403 


cakes, good, rich, plum . 


177 


good plain . . 


ib 


iceing for . . 


ib 


rich seed . , 


ib 


plain, pound . 


ib 


ratafia . . 


ib 


wiggs 


i ib 


Bpth 


ib 


wedding . . 


414 


election . . 


ib 


bla;k 


ib 


to keep foi-a year 


415 


spongg 


ib 


sugar 


jb 


cup 


ib 


cider . . 


ib 


federal 


ib 


Albany 


ib 


Shrewsbury 


177, 413 


Portugal 


. 177 


ginger, without butter 


177, 413 


Savoy 


177 


pound-cake gingerbread 


413 


gingerbread 


ib 


short 


ib 


saffron 


178 


queen . 


ib 


rice . . 


ib 


lemon . 


178, 415 


hmbury 


177 


almond 


177, 413 


cream 


178 


cheese, fine 


180 


almond 


ib 


bread . 


ib 


rice 


ih 


apple 


ib 


gingerbread, plain 


178 


crumpets . , 


ib 


muffins . . ' 


ib 


buns, common 


179 


cross . , 


{ ib 


rusks 


* . ib 


custards, orange 


ib 


baked . 


ib 


rice 


ib 


almond 


ib 


lemon 


ib 


tarts, almond 


ib 


orange 


ib 


orange puffs 


b 


English macaroons 


ib 


biscuit, fancy 


ib 


sponge 


. "180 



Pastry, &c. 




blane mange . ' , 


180 


clear . . . 


ib 


Pastes to imitate precious stones . 


379 


Paste for receiving colours . . 


ib 


of a blue colour 


ib 


resembling the sapphire . 


380 


eagle marine 


ib 


for a gold or yellow colour . 


ib 


resembling the topaz . . 


ib 


cljrysolite . , 


ib 


emerald . . 


ib 


for a deep purple colour , 


ib 


resembling the amethyst 


ib 


diamond . . 


ib 


for a perfect black . . 


ib 


of an opake whiteness . . 


381 


hard, formed by calx of tin or antimony 


ib 


resembling the opal 


ib 


ruby 


ib 


ruby, a cheaper 


ib 


garnet 


ib 


vinegar garnet 


ib 


fictitious iapis lazuli 


ib 


red cornelian 


382 


white cornelian 


ib 


turquoise . 


ib 


Peach, qualities of . 


404 


trees, to preserve 


418 


Pears, to preserve 


30S 


to keep, for market 


ib 


qualities of . . . 


404 


Pearl ashes, to make a lixivium of 


53 


powder for the face 


189 


bismuth do . 


ib 


water for the face 


188 


Peas, to raise in autumn . 


303 


to sow, in circles . . 


ib 


early sown, to prevent mice from destroy- 




ing . 


ib 


qualities cf . 


403 


to cultivate 


335J 


Peat and peat ashes, use of, as manure 


323 


Peats, to char at the moss 


380 


for family use 


ib 


Peccalili, to make, Indian method 


185 


Pelisses, to scour 


94 


Pencil drawings, to preserve 


54 


Pencils, artificial black lead, to make i 


ib 


English drawing 


ib 


lithographic 


67 


Pennyroyal, oil of, to obtain 


148 


water, simple, to make . . 


151 


Peppermint, cordial, to make . 


147 


drops, do . . ♦ 


182 


spirit, do . . . 


153 


oil of, to procure 


143 


water, to prepare 


151 


Pepper, Jamaica, water . ' . 


ib 


Perry, to manage 


121 


to make 


ib 


Perspective, scale for dividing the vanishing 




lines 


55 


Perfumery and cosmetics 


187 


eau de cologne, to make 


ib 


raelisse de carmes . 


ib 


bouquet . . . 


188 


essence de jasmine 


ib 


honey water, to make 


ib 


ottar of roses 


ib 


milk of do, English 


ib 


French 


ib 


cream of roses, to make 


ib 


pomatum, culd, for the corapleuon . 


ib 


pommade divine, to make . 


ib 


pearl water, for the face 


ib 


almond bloom, to prepare . 


189 



Perfumery and cosmetics 




almond paste 


189 


pomatum, orange • 


ib 


soft 


ib 


common . . 


ib 


• hard . • 


ib 


rosemary 


ib 


pearl powder for the face . 


ib 


bismuth do 


ib 


caution in using 


ib 


orange flower paste for the hands 


ib 


coral tooth powders 


ib 


vegetable tooth brushes 


190 


an astringent for the teeth . 


ib 


excellent opiate for do 


ib 


rose lip salve . . 


ib 


■white do . . . 


ib 


to sweeten the breath 


ib 


perfumed bags for drawers 


ib 


perfume for clothes 


ib 


gloves 


ib 


tincture of mnsk 


ib 


to prevent jiestilential airs, &c. 


ib 


for sick rooms 


191 


explosive pastils 


ib 


aromatic do 


ib 


hair powder 


ib 


ambergris . 


ib 


musk and civet 


ib 


orris . . 


ib 


violet 


ib 


rose 


ib 


bergamotte . . 


ib 


ambergris 


ib 


musk and civet do . . 


ib 


violet 


19'2 


rose 


ib 


rouge, Sp-inish ladies' 


ib 


Spanish vermilion 


ib 


economical rouge 


ib 


Turkish bloom 


ib 


•wash for sun-burnt faces, Sec. 


ib 


Macouba snuff 


ib 


ceptislic do . . 


ib 


Spanish do, imitation of 


ib 


London imitation of Spanish, &( 


ib 


soap, transparent 


193 


Windsor 


ib 


almond 


b 


balls, marbled 


ib 


Naples, imitation of 


ib 


Pewter, common, to prepare 


10 


best 


.ib 


hard 


;b 


Pheasants, to breed 


357 


Phial, Bologna, to make 


375 


Philips's rules for health 


260 


Philosophical instruments, lacker for 


27 


Phosphorus, to preserve 


392 


Pictures, to clean 


48 


to preserve 


392 


ancient, to restore the white of 


101 


to eulai'ge, or diminish 


54 


Pickling 


1S4 


saur kraut, to make 


ib 


peccalili 


185 


Pickle, to, onions . . 


184 


samphire 


185 


mushrooms . . 


ib 


cucumbers 


ib 


walnuts, white 


ib 


anchovies, artificial 


ib 


salmon 


ib 


Pickles, to detect copper in 


39'i 


Pic, perigord, to make 


171 


oyster 


. 415 


pigeon 


168 



IIOJEX, ^ 447 

Pie,giblet . . . 1C8 

nimp steak . . . ih 

chicken and rabbit . . ib 

raised, French, ham and pork, &c. 167— 1 69 

Pigeons, en compote . . 168 

Pilchards, to cure . . , 359 

Piles, treatment of . . .219 

ointments for . . , ib 

Ward's paste for . , 234 

Pills, chalybeate . , . 244 

compound aloetic . . 235 

alociic and myrrh . . 250 

assafcEtida . , , ib 

Plnmmer's . , , ib 

compound, colocynth . . 235 

aloetic . , , ib 

compound rhubarb . . 236 

croton . . . 397 

expectorant . , , 236 

Napoleon's pectoral ■ . . ib 

anti-hysteric . . . 243 

Pimento, oil of, to procure . .148 

Pinery, to manage a , . 294 

Pines, mode of cultivating . . 295 

the soil . . ib 

heat . . . ib 

to propagate . , . ib 

to separate crowns and suckers . ib' 

treatment of the plants . . ih 

ripe, to cut . . , ib 

to destroy insects on . . 296 

Pipes, tobacco, to make . . 370 

Pi\)ing, a mode of cultivatingplants by cuttings 290 

Pippins, new, to render productive . 298 

Pinchbeck, to prepare . , 11 

Pismires, in grass, to prevent . 335 

Plague, "to disinfect stibstances of the . 261 

letters . . ib 

Plant, to, thorn hedges , . 349 

Plants, insects on, to destroy . . 305 

to pi-eserve from slugs . , H2 

Plantation, to form a . , 349 

Plaster figures, to bronze . . 30 

of Spanish flies . . 251 

compound Burgundy pitch . ib 

labdanum . . ib 

adhesive . . . 252 

court . . . ib 

of Paris, as manure . . 324 

Plate, to, looking glasses . . 11 

iron . . .18 

and plated articles . . 389 

Plated copper, from, to o1)tain silver . 17 

metals, to assay . . 18 

Platina, mock, to prepare . . l"? 

Plating, silver solder for . . 13 

Pleurisy . . . 204 

Plumbers, painters, and glaziers, cautions to 242 

Plums, qualities of . . 404 

Plant, to, shrubs . . . 290 

Plants, to accelerate, in hot houses . 291 

to choose . . • 293 

to preserve from frost . . 294 

to destroy insects on . . 306 

Plough, Small's improved, description of 314 

Veitch's do . . . ib 

for cleaning beans and turnips . 315 

Poisons, remedies for . . 228 

acids . . , ib 

alkalies . . .229 

mercury . , , ib 

arsenic . , , ib 

copper . . . ib 

anitmony . . , ib 

salts of tin . . . ib 

salts of bismuth, gold, and zino . ib 

lunar caustie . . . ib 



448 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



Poisons, remedies foi- 

salt-petre . . . 229 

sal ammoniac . . . ib 

liver of sulphur . . ib 

phosphorus . . . . ib 

Spanish flies . . , ib 

powdered glass . . . ib 

lead . . . ib 

laudanum or opium . , ib 

mushrooms . . . 230 

fish, poisonous . , . ib 

bites of serpents, &e. . . 22 

in sheep, to cure . . 418 

Polish, to, varnish . . .35 

durable , . . 412 

French . . .26 

varnished furniture . ; 31 

wood . , . ib 

brass ornaments inlaid in wood . ib 

Polygraph, to make . . . 394 
Pomatum, cold cream, for the complexion 188 

common . . . 189 

hard . . , ib 

rosemary . • . ib 

orange . . . ib 

soft . . . ib 

Pommade divine . . . 1S8 

• Porcelain china, to manufacture . 369 

to gild . . .14 

glass, &e. to paint and stain . 68 

Pork, qualities of » . . , 402 

loin of, Portuguese mode of dressing 166 

pies . . . 168 

to salt . . .186 

choice of . . . 426 

to carve . , . 420 

Porter, to brew, London system : 108 

three barrels of . . . 109 

on Mr Morrice's plan . . »b 

from sugar and malt . . Ill 

with table beer after . .114 

to make a butt of stout . . 109 

to bottle . . . 120 

to ripen, if flat, when bottled . ib 

Portland powders, the, for the gout 240 

Portugal water, to prepare . . 151 

Posset, sack, and ale, to make . . 172 
Potatoes, new, to produce throughout winter 302 

fourteen ways to dress . . 410 

to apply dung to . . 333 

qualities of . . . 403 

for sea provisions, to keep . 172 

to preserve from frost . . 334 

to remove frost from . . ib 

to steam . . , 172 

bread from, to make . . ib 

frosted, to use . . 172, 335 

to make starch of . . ib 

to cultivate . . . 333 

to prepare the ground for . ib 

quantity of seed for . . ib 

to raise, advantageous method . ib 
mode of takmg up and storing the crop ib 

Irish method of cultivating . ib 
early, to produce, in great quantity . 334 
to grow constantly on the same piece of 

ground . . ib 
to boil, mealy . . . 394 
to preserve . . 334, 394 
Potash, to extract from potatoe tops . 143 
Potass water, to prepare . .157 
Polygraph, an instrument for writmg two let- 
ters at once . . . 894 
Polypus , . . 202 
Pottery . , .369 
EKglish stone ware, to manufacture . ib 
yellow, or queen's ware . . ib 



Pottery 

common 'A'are 
English porcelain 
black glazing, to prepare . 
porcelain, or china, to make 
delft ware. 

Saxoa or Dresden china 
English china, composition of 
china ware, to bake 
tobacco pipes, to make 
crucibles, to make 
glaze for 
white 

china, for printing blue frit 
cream coloured, to make 
yellow, to form 
white, to prepare 
mixture for 

for printing blue 
shining black 
purple under 
brown under 
china, to prepare 

for flotts 
green edge 

common, for earthen ware 
to, without lead 
transparent, for do 
masticot, ground for white 
white, for copper vessels 
very fine 
yellow 

lemon coloured , 

light yeliow 
gold coloured 
green, for white ground 

fine 
blue 

violet blue . 
red, fine . 
china, Chinese mode 
English, for china 
modification of do 
white, for, to make 
olive, sponge, dip 
white enamel 
fluxes, for blue printing 
black do 
red, to prepare 
black, for printing 
copper black 
red for printing 
umber black 
black 
oil for black printing 
cream colour body, to form 
common body . 

blue printing do 
chalk do . . 

cane coloar . . 

china colour . . 

jasper do . . 

drab do 
pearl do 

stone do . . 

Egyptian black do 
enamel for earthen ware 
ware, varnish for, free from lead 
varnish, for earthen ware 
hard ware, to apply colours on, which pro- 
duce herborizations 
glass, in imitation of engraving, to orna- 
ment . . 
prince Rupert's drops . 
glass, to break in any required way 
Poultry, to fatten 
Poultices, various , . 



INDEX. 



449 



f'owders 




Pulse, of the 


198 


Seidlitz, to make . 


254 


Pyroligneous acid, to prepare . 


155 


Portland . • 


240 






Dover's 


250 


Q. 




aloetic, with iron 


ib 


Quass, to make 


. 155 


for gilding 


16 


Quicksilver, to freeze 


S88 


Pradier's cataplasm for gout 


240 


Queen's metal . . 


9 


Pregnancy, diseases attendant oa 


. 244 


ware, to make 


S69 


Preserving 


186 


Quills, to prepare 


, 418 


preserve, tr, fish, by sugar 


ib 


Quince, marmalade, to make . 


183 


fruits 


ib 


Quinces, to preserve . 


309 


damsons, by bottling . 


ib 






barberries 


ib 


R. 




grapes 


ib 


Babbit, pie 


168 


cherries, by drying 


ib 


Welsh 


173 


candied orange flowers 


ib 


Radishes, to cultivate, to havetiiematall 


sea- 


seeds in hooey, for vegetation 


187 


sons . . 


SOS 


fruits in brandy 


ib 


qualities of 


402 


Seville oranges, whole 


ib 


Ragout of asparagus, to make . 


. 176 


cucumbers and melons 


ib 


mushrooms, to make 


ib 


strawberries, whole 


ib 


artichokes, do . . 


ib 


apricots 


Jb 


calves' sweet-bread, do 


ib 


gooseberries 


ib 


with roots, do 


177 


candied angelica 


ib 


Raspberry paste, to make 


184 


eringo 


ib 


jam, do 


ib 


substances, by heating, Sec. 


394 


cream, do 


ib 


Prince's metal, to prepare 


12 


1 Razors, paste for sharpening 


395 


Printing from stone 


67 


f to hone and strop 


. 415 


Print, to copy a 


55 


Realgar, for dyeing, to prepare 


84 


Prtats, to bleach 


97 


Rheumatic affections, remedy for 


239 


Printer's types, alloy for 


10 


pains in the face, do 


240 


Puerperal fever '. 


. 245 


gout, do 


401 


Punch 


122 


Rheumatism, remedies for 


212 


Purgative medicines . 


2S5 


chronic 


ib 


powder . 


. 2S6 


inflammatory 


ib 


Putrid fever 


200 


pills for 


239 


Podding, Dr Kitchener's 


169 


liniment for 


211 


Nottingham 


ib 


Chelsea pensioners, remedy for 


240 


Yorkshire 


170 


Rhodium, oil of, to procure 


148 


Dutch 


ib 


Rhubarb, common garden, to cultivate 


303 


Windsor . . 


ib 


to force 


ib 


Cheshire . , 


ib 


to dry 


ib 


plain . . 


ib 


to cure 


ib 


Fatna rice . . 


ib 


Rice, qualities of 


403 


potatoe, baked 


170, 414 


Rickets in children, remedy for, regimen. 


&c. 248 


* marrow . . 


170 


jelly from the raspings of ivory, for 


249 


Oldbury 


ib 


Riga balsam, the true 


148 


quince . . 


ib 


Ringworm 


217, 249 


tan^ , . 


ib 


Roads, M'Adams's system of making 
Rollers, for smoothing the surface otlanc 


382 


lemon . . 


ib 


315 


Mrs Groodfellow'g 


179 


Rolls, French 


413 


transparent . . 


ib 


Rooms, to ventilate 


387 


orange 


171, 414 


Roots, to preserve and pack 


294 


cocoa-nut . . 


171, 414 


to dry 


307 


Boston apple . . 


171, 413 


to preserve 


308 


baked . 


. 414 


Roscoe's method of improving moss land 


322 


spring fruit . . 


171 


Rose-water, to prepare 
Roses, butter oi, to prepare 


151 


plum . . 


ib 


. 148 


batter . . 


ib 


ottar of 


188 


Newmarket . . 


ib 


English milk of . . . 


ib 


cabinet . . 


ib 


French milk of . 


ib 


vermicelli . . 


ib 


cream of 


ib 


bread . . 


ib 


to obtain twice in the year . 


401 


suet . 


ib 


Rosemary, oil of .' . 


149 


custard . . 


ib 


water 


150 


hominy 


414 


Rot, dry, in timber, to cure 


387 


rice . 


ib 


Rue, oil of, to procure 
Rubber, to make . . 


149 


ground rice, or ugo . 


ib 


26 


sweet potatoe . . 


ib 


Rugs, hearth, to scour 


99 


citron . 


ib 


Rum, Jamaica, to make . 


142 


cream . . , 


ib 


to imitate . . 


ib 


Indian • » 


ib 


from molasses, to obtain 


ib 


baked 


ib 


Ruptures . . . 


817 


THimpkin • . . 


415 


reducible 


ib 


f wft . 


179 


irreducible . . . 


SIS 


orange • 


ib 


strangulated . . 


ib 


IMste . 


414 


Rural eeoaomy 


356 


3G 




2 JV 


2 



460 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



Rupert's, prince, drops, to make 


375 


Rush-lights, to make 


396 


Rusks, to make 


179 


Russia leather, to manufacture . 


282 


Rye, to cultivate 


331 


S. 
Saffron, bastard, for dyeing, to prepare 
Sail-cloth, to paint, water proof 


91 


29,41 


Salep, and portable soup, properties of 


402 


Saline draught, to prepare 


199 


Salmon, to pickle . 


185 


Salads, qualities of • . 


403 


chicken . . 


416 


Salt, spirit of, or marine acid . 


156 


dephlogisticated 


ib 


to, hams 


185 


made by evaporation on faggots 


393 


beef and pork, dry 


186 


Salutary cautions f see Cautions) 
Samphire, to pickle 


254 


185 


Sand pot, portable, to make a . 


138 


Sanfoin, to cultivate 


337 


Sarsenets, to clean 


97 


Sarsaparilla, decoction of 


254 


compound . . , 


ib 


Sassafras, oil of, to procure . , 


149 


cocoa, to prepare , 


157 


Satins, to paint on . 

to gild . . . 


66 


15 


white . 


ib 


Sauce, common, to make . , 


175 


sweet . . 


ib 


miser's 


ib 


pontiff's . . , 


ib 


housewife's . . , 


ib 


parson's . . , 


ib 


nun's . . 


ib 


admiral's • . . 


ib 


piquante • . . 


ib 


Italienne . . , 


ib 


nonpareil . . 


ib 


Nivernoise . . 


ib 


general's • 


176 


sailor's . . , 


ib 


queen's • . 


ib 


carach • . . 


ib 


fish 


ib 


cream, for a hare . 


ib 


for veal . . 


175 


bechamel 


ib 


Kitchener's . . 


ib 


Saur kraut, to make . 


184 


Sausages, Bologna • . 


166 


Oxford 


ib 


Epping 


ib 


Savaloys, to make • . 


ib 


Scald head, ointment for 


233 


treatment of 


217 


Scalds, to heal . . 


230 


liniments for • . 


ib 


extensive • . 


232 


and burns, treatment of . 


230 


Scalp, wounds of . . 


223 


Scarlet fever, treatment of 


215 


malignant, do . . 


ib 


Sciatica . . 


239 


Scions, to choose . . 


289 


Scirrhus • 


213 


Scorbutic eruptions . . 


. 217 


Scouring, (see Bleaching) 


94 


balls, to make 


100 


Scrofula • . 


212 


Scurvy . , 


217 


cure for • • 


417 


grass, spirit of, to make 


153 


Sea kail, to cultivate 


305 



Sea weed, as manure • 

application of, as . 

water, to render fit to wash 

to obtain, fresh, from . 

Seamen, cautions to 

health of, to preserve . 

Seidlitz powders, to prepare 
Seltzer water 
Seeds, to sow, with advantage . 

flower, to preserve , 

to improve all sorts of 

to preserve for a long time 

exotic . 

to pack for transportation . 
Serpents, bites of . . 

Shad, choice of . . 

Shawls, silk, to dye crimson . 
Sheep, foot-rot in, to cure 

to prevent 

to prevent catching cold after shearing 

scab in, to cure 

to prevent 

maggots in, to destroy 

water in the heads of^ to cure 

to prevent 

rules for feeding with straw 
Sheep's leather, elegant, to prepare 
to dye 

dung, utility of, for dyeing 
Sheep, poisoned, to cure 
Sheep skins, to convert into leather 

to prepare in oil, mock chamois 
Shepherds, practice of Spanish 
Ships, health on board of, to preserve 

provisions 

spirits, beer, &c. . 

fresh animal food 

biscuit, fiour, &c. 

water 

to purify with charcoal . 

cleanliness in . . 

to prevent damp and cold . 

exercise and amusements . 

diseases . . 

effects of climate, &c. . 

cautions, when on shore 
in tropical climates . 

intoxication . . 

noxious vapours . 

to obtain fresh water from sea 

to wash with sea water 

hints, in case of a leak 

temporary nautical pumps 

to render sinking, impossible 

air-pipes for ventilating 
Shipwreck, preservation from 

when a man falls overboard 

upsetting of a boat 

cork waistcoats 

further means of preventing 

assistance to a person in danger of drown- 
ing 

cork matrasses . 

the marine spencer . 

bamboo habit 

Daniel's life preserver . 

to extricate persons from broken ice 

the life boat 

safe and readily constructed life boats 

further methods of preservation in cases of ib 
Shoes, to render water proof . 30, 405 

Shoots, to preserve, from slugs and ear-wigs 306 
Shrubs, brandy, to make . . 145 

rum and currant . . ib 

to plant them to advantage . 292 

to remove superfluous suckers from . 298 

to protect from hares . . 299 



INDEX. 



461 



Shrubs, to transplant in full growth . 398 

Sick, on visiting the, cautions to be observed 241 



Sight, weak, remedy for 


235 


dimness of 


201 


Silk, to gild 

varnished, to prepare 


15 


. 30, 34 


varnish for, to make 


ib 


to paint on 


66 


flowered, to clean 


97 


coloured 


98 


black 


ib 


rusty black, to dip 


ib 


to extract grease spots from 


ib 


Silk worms, to rear . 


350 


Silks, to remove stains from 


98 


spots of paint from 


ib 


to alum 


83 


to dye, blue . . 


ib 


yellow 


84 


red, crimson, &c. . 


85 


black 


ib 


with Prussian blue 


87 


to precipitate acetates of lead and c 


opper 


on 


ib 


to dye, brown, in the small way 


88 


of fawn-coloured drabs, to dye 


ib 


to dye lilac . ^ 


ib 


flesh colour 


ib 


to bleach 


96 


Silver ores, to assay . 


8 


by cupellation . . 


ib 


in the humid way . 


ib 


to assay the value of . 


8 


double issay of . 


9 


imitation of 


12 


solder for jewellers . 


13 


plating 


ib 


to separate from plated copper 


17 


chemical test for 


392 


Silvering 


11 


glass globes, liquid foil for 


ib 


copper ingots 


16 


by heat 


17 


on gilt work, by amalgamation 


ib 


in the cold way 


ib 


Silver tree, to prepare the . 


18 


liquid, to restore rusted 


53 


for vellum painting 


ib 


plate, to take stains out of . 


100 


to clean 


ib 


Size, isinglass, to make 


385 


Sleep, to procure 


408 


Small-pox, treatment of 


216 


vaccination 


ib 


Smoky chimneys, to cure 


386 


Snail water, small, to make 


151 


SnufT, Macouba 


192 


cephalic . . 


ib 


imitation of Spanish . 


ib 


London do . . 


ib 


Soap, transparent, to make 


193 


Windsor . 


ib 


almond . . 


ib 


balls, marbled . . 


ib 


Naples, to imitate 


ib 


Soda water, to prepare 


157 


Soil for a garden, to choose the best 


284 


component parts of 


311 


clayey, to distinguish 


ib 


to manage 


285 


sandy, to manure 


311 


gravelly 


312 


use of different 


ib 


burning surface 


322 


Mr Curwen's method 


ib 


Solder, common, to prepare 


10 


hard 


ib 



Solder, soft 

for steel joints 

brass, for iron 

silver, for jewellers 
plating 

gold 
Soleil, coup de 
Soups 

Flemish 

portable 

maigre 

mock turtle 

asparagus 

giblet 

white 

charitable 

veal gravy 

beef 

a poor man's 

cheap rice and meat 

another cheap 

herring 

nutritious 

transparent, fav eonyalescents 

chowder 

mullaga-tawny 

hodge-podge 
Sow, to, seeds to advantage 
Sowing machine, description of 

wheat, method of . 

grain, by ribbing . 

Spearmint water, simple . 

Spectacles, use of . 
Specula, or telescopes . 

Spleen, enlarged . . 

Spinach 

Spirituous water, rules for distilling 
Spirits, to distil, from carrots . 

to dulcify 

foreign, to imitate 

spirit of malt, to make 

of wine, do 

proof . . 

of salt, or marine acid 

to fine . . 

compound . 

Sprains ... 

Sprats, to cure . . 

Spruce beer, brown and white 
Squills, vinegar of 
Statues, ancient, composition of 
Starch, from frosted potatoes . 
Steel, to gild 

to convert into iron by cementation 

improved mode of hardening 

English cast, to prepare 

to colour blue 

to distinguish from iron 

goods, to preserve 

improved mode of hardening by hammer- 
ing 

to engrave on . . 

Stereotype plates, alloy for . 

mode of casting 
Stews, (see Culinary Arts) 

French, of greens and bacon 
Stencilling . . 

Still, hot, to make a . . 

large do . . 

operations of the . 

new worm for 
Stings and bites . . 

Stomach, inflamed . ., 

cramp in . . 

Stockings, silk, to clean . 

to dye flesh colour . 

black 



452 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



Stone ware, English, to make 
$tone in the bladder . 
Stoves, cracks in, to mend 
Strangury . 

Strawberry water 

jelly, to make 

jam 

Alpine, to cultivate the 

qualities of the 

to preserve the, whole 
Straw, importance of 

weight of, in different Crops 

value of JiiTerent kinds of 

wheat 

oat 

beaii 

peas 

tare, or hay 

in feeding cattle with, rules for 
horses 



369 

209 

418 

209 

151 

184 

ib 

305 

404 

187 

344 

ib 

345 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

346 

ib 

347 

346 

ib 

210 

103 

104 

ib 

235 

119 

144 



miscellaneous consumption of 

as applicable to Htter 

to thatcbing . 
Strictures 
Stucco, Wych's, to make 

Williams's, do 

iron, do . . 
Styes, treatment of 

Sugar, use of, in brewing . 

to obtain from beets 

maple, juice of, to extract, without injuring 

the tree . . . 417 

Sufibcation, by noxious vapours . 228 

by hanging . . . ib 

drowning . . . ib 

Sunflower, the . , . 306 

Swelling, white . . . 212 

Swimming, art of . . . 259 

Swine, measles in, to cure . . 275 

rupture in . , . ib 

Syllabub, whipt, to make . .182 

solid, do . . . ib 

Syrup of ginger, to make . . 253 

poppies . . . ib 

squills . . . ib 

violets . . . ib 

Syphilis . . . .210 



Tanning, and the treatment of leather . 280 

improvement in . . ib 

new process of , . . 281 

use of the wood and bark of the horse 

chesnut tree for . , 282 

Tan, to, hides or skins . . 280 

without bark or mineral astringents ib 

calf or other skins . . ib 

hides . . . ib 

new species of . . . 401 

Tape worm, specific for the . . 405 

Tar, oil of, to procure . . 149 

water, to prepare , . 254 

Tares, to cultivate . . . 332 

Tarts, raspberry arid cream . . 170 

paste for . . . 172 

almond , . . 179 

orange, to make . . . ib 

Tartar, tincture of salt of . . 144 

Tea, beef, to make ... 254 

qualities of . , . 404 

native , . . 157 

substitutes for . . . 158 

trays, to clean . . . 391 

Teeth, extraction of, to check hemorrhage in 234 

diseases of the, remedies for . 235 



Teeth, preservation of the 
picking the 

loose, remedy for 

foul 

cleaning the 

to clean and preserve 

astringent for the 

to make the, white 

excellent opiate for the 
Telegraph, domestic, to make 
Telescopes, specula for 
Terapins 

Testicle, diseases bt 
Tetanus 

Thatching, straw as applicable to 
Thermometer, Fahrenheit's, to construct 

common 

to adjust the fixed points of the 
Thrashing machine, description of 
Throat, sore 

gargle for . . 

putrid 

infiammatory . 

strictures in . 

wounds in . 

Thrush in children, remedies for 

gargles for . , 

Thunder, 8tc. . , 

Thyme, oil of, to procure 
Tic doloureux . . 

Tiffanies, to wash and stain 
Tiles, red distemper for, to make 

to preserve . . 

Tillage, operation of 

best mode of 

to conduct a fallow 

to prepare the ground 

two sets of ploughs required for 
Tincture of Japonica, to prepare 

salt of tartar 

antimony . 

benzoin . 

catechu 

ginger 

guaiacum 

guaiacum, ammcniated 

Peruvian bark 
Haxham's . 

rhubarb , 

compound . 

senna 

balsam of Tola 
Tin ores, to assay , 

in the humid way 

to, copper and brass 

iron and copper vessels 

solution of, in aqua-regia 

muriate of, to make 

tree, to prepare the 
Tinning, Kustitien's metal for 
Tobacco pipes, to make 
Tomatas catsup 
Tombac, to prepare 

red 

white 
Tools, edge, from cast steel and iron 
Tonsils, swollen 
Tooth ache, to prevent the 
radical cure for the 

brushes, vegetable, to make 

powders 

coral, &CC. 

remedies for the 
Tortoise shell, to weld 
Travelling, in, to escape the effects of lightning 
Trees, to graft 

to plant, to advantage 



INDEX. 



463 



Trees, to pack for exportatidh . 310, 

foliage of, to water 
planting, general mode of 

more expeditious method 
forcing, German way 
small fruit, to plant 
standard, to clothe the stems of 
orchard, to prune 
deformed, to recover 
to transplant 
orchard, diseases of 
fruit, to raise and ihatiage 
to preserve from frbst 

Russian way 
in blossom 

to protect from insects 
to propagate, Chinese way 
to clear from worms, &o. 
peach, to preserve 
wall, skreen for protecting 

new way of 
apple, old, to renovate 

treatment of 
wounds in, &c. 

exhibiting the, to obtain early fruit by 
coffee, to engraft 
wall fruit, to hasten the ripening of 

composition for do 
to prevent the growth of weeds round 
fruit, nails in, to avoid the effects of 
moss on, to destroy 
to protect from hares 
apple, insects on, to prevent the propaga* 
tion of 
canker in 

the disease in, to cure 
canker in 

elm, ulcers in, to cure 
orchard, to cleanse, by lime 
fruit, blight in; to cure 

mildew on, to prevent 
peach, do do 

gumming in, to prevent 
young, to pack, for exportati 
lympany 
Tumours 

fleshy, &c. 
Turkeys, qualities of 

dropsy in the crops of 
choice of 
Turner's varnish for box wood 

cerate 
Turnips, to cultivate 

to prepare the ground for 
to sow seeds for 
cleaning process 
yellow, to cultivate 
Swedish, or ruta-baga 
fly on, to destroy 
to prevent 
to check the 
cleaning, plough for 
to apply dung to 
qualities of 
Turnsole, blue, for dyeing 
Turpentine, oil of, to procure 

to rectify 
Turtle, to dress 

calf's head, in imitation of 
mock 
Tutania, or Britannia metal 
German . 

Spanish 
Engestroom 
Tutenag, to prepare . 
Types, printer's, alloy for 
Typhus fevef 



410 

291 

292 

ib 

ib 

293 

ib 

ib 

ib 

291 

293 

292 

294 

ib 

298 

294 

298 

398 

417 

294 

409 

298 

ib 

299 

298 

ib 

ib 

ib 

299 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

300 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

310 

210 

217 

218 

403 

278 

426 

26 

251 

335 

ib 

ib 

336 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

315 

SIS 

404 

93 

149 

ib 

415 

ib 

ib 

12 

ib 

ib 

13 

10 

ib 

300 



U. 



Ulcers 

mercurial, in the mouth . 

and pimples 6ti the tongue 

inflamed . . 

fungous . . 

sloughing . . 

indolent . . 

carious . . 

poultices f«r, various . 

lotions for scorbutic . 

for scrofulous . 
Umbrellas, to make pliable varnish for 

Urine, incontinence of . 

suppression of . 

difficulty of . . 

Usquebaugh, to make . 

Uvula, enlarged . . 

V. 

Vaccination 

signs of a true 
Varnishes 

poppy oil, for drying 
fat oils 

resinous drying oil 
copal, various colours 
Varnish, fat copal 
for plaster figures 
for watch cases, to imitate tortoise shell 
colourless copal 
white do 
gold coloured do 
camphorated do 
ethereal do 
turpentine do 
fat amber . 

amber with turpentine 
Shaw's mastic 
for electrical purposes 
fat amber,, or copal 
to apply it to opake enamels 
compound mastic 
camphorated do for paintings 
painter's cream 
caoutchouc 
sandarac 

compound 

camphorated 
for cut paper works, dressing boxes, &c. 
spirituous sandarac, for wainscotting, &c. 
for violins, &c. 

coloured, for violins, &c., plum tree, ma- 
hogany, and rose wood 
fat, of a gold colour 

or golden, being a mordant to gold 
and dark colours 
Turner's, for box wood 
to, dressing boxes 
to, glass 
gallipot 

mastic, for grinding colours 
to, harps and dulcimers 
tor boots and shoes 
lacquer, for brass 

for philosophical instrnments ' . 

gold coloured, for brass watch cases, 
watch keys, 8ec. 

of a less drying quality . 

of various tints 
mordant, for gilding 
others 

composition for making coloured draw- 
ings and prints resemble oil paintings 
to colour baskets . 

to, balloons 
rarified air do . . 



220 

202 
ib 

220 
ib 
ib 
ib 
ib 

232 
ib 
ib 
34 

209 
ib 
ib 

145 

202 



S16 
ib 
22 
ib 
ib 
23 
33 
23 
30 
23 
lb 
33 
23 
ib 
24 
32 
ib 
ib 
25 
27 
24 
33 
24 
25 
ib 
34 
25 
ib 
ib 
ib 
ib 



26 
ib 

ib 
ib 
27 
33 
27 
ib 
32 
405 
27 
ib 

ib 
ib 
28 
ib 
ib 

ib 
ib 
34 
ib 



454 



UNIVERSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



Varnish 

for coloured drawings . . 31 
for pales, and coarse wood work . 28 
for wood, which resists the action of boil- 
ing water . . .32 
black, for old straw or chip hats . 28 
to, drawings and card work . 32 
to make sail cloth water proof . 29, 41 
on wood . . 39 
coloured composition for rendering linen 

and cloth water proof . . 29 

to thicken linen cloth for skreens and bed 

testers . . . ib 

to make liquid paste with drying oil ib 

common wax, for cloth . . ib 

fine printed cloths, to prepare . ib 

silk, to prepare . . 30 

for silks, &c. . . . SO, 34 

for umbrellas . . .30 

for Indian shields . ■ . 35 

to, like gold, silver leaf . . ib 

to recover . . . • ib 

to polish . . . ib 

Garnishes for engraving, (see Engraving) 77 

Vaults, foreign wine, to manage . 133 

Veal, qualities of . . . 402 

choice of . . . 426 

savoury dish of, to make . .165 

cake, to make . . . ib 

breast, glacee . . . ib 

shoulder, en galantine . . ib 

ragout of, cold . . . ib 

to carve . . . 420 

Vegetable liquids, to deprive, of their colour 155 

'/egetables, to propagate . . 286 

by seed . . . ib 

by germs or bulbs . . ib 

by slips , . . ib 

by division of the plant . . ib 

by runners . . . 287 

by suckers . . . ib 

by layering . . " . ib 

by innarching . . . ib 

by budding . . . ib 

by shield-budding . . ib 

green, for manure, to decompose . 323 
to protect from injuries^ by straw ropes 291 

by nets . . . ib 

by canvass skreens . lO 

to gather . . .308 

to preserve • . . ib 

Veins, enlarged, spermatic . .211 

Vellum, to make . . . 283 

to convert into leather . . ib 

painting, liquid gold for . . 53 

silver . ib 

to stain, green . 94 

to restore rusted liquid siKer . 53 

to make glaire of eggs for . ib 

ground, to lay silver or gold upon . ib 

Velvet, to paint on . • 65 

materials required . . ib 

subjects for painting . , ib 

appropriate colours . . ib 

compound do . . 66 

directions for painting . . ib 

Venison, qualities of . . 402 

pasty . . .415 

Ventilation of churches . 260 

houses . ib 

V^ermin, to preserve houses from . 363 

crops from . . . 336 

Vines, to plant . . . 296 

composts for . . . ib 

to choose the plants . . ib 

to prune and train . . ib 

to advantage . . 297 



Vines, to destroy insects on 
Vinegar, to make 

common 

wine 

sugar 

gooseberiy 

currant 

primrose 

raisin 

cider 

from the refuse of fruits . 
bee hives 

from orange and elder flowers, &c, 

to strengthen . . 

ice, to prepare 

quass, to make 

distilled 

improved . . 

to deprive of colour . 

of squills . . 

aromatic 

cheap do for purifying manufactories 

balsamic and anti-putrid 
Vinous fermentation . 

Vol-au-vent, to make . 

W. 

Waffles 

Dutch way 
Walks, gravel, to make 
Walls, new, to preserve from dampness 
Walnuts, to preserve 

to pickle, white 
Warts, to remove . . 

to treat . , 

venereal 
Wasps, 8cc., stings of 
Watch cases, mock tortoise shell 

works, oil for 
Wash, for preserving crayon drawings . 
Water colours (see Colours) 

for animals, to mix 
Water, fresh, from sea, to obtain 

sea, to render fit for washing 

commoa, distilled 

casks, to clean 

for brewing, to choose 

to purify, by charcoal 

to, meadows 

to raise, in all situations 

warm, for a carriage, or small room 

to walk on the 

to determine if hard or soft 

pipes, to manage in winter 

soda 

Water-proof, composition for making linen,&e. 
sail cloth 
linen and cloth 

boots, to prepare . 

composition for leather or cloth 
for leather, patent 
Waters, simple, rules for distilling 

stills for 

expeditious mode of distilling 

compound distilled 
Wax, painting on, Grecian method 

red sealing, to make 

black 

green . . 

blue 

yellow . . 

purple 

uneoloured, soft . 

coloured . . 

bordering for engravers . 

candles, to make . . 

Weeds, to destroy . . 



INDEX. 



455 



using 



preventing 



Weeds, usefulness of moving 
Wlieat, to cultivate 

to preserve 

method of sowing 

drilling, improved way of 

to fickle the seed of 

diseases of 

blight, mildew, rust 

mildewed, impropriety of 
to remove 
to prevent 

smut in 

Henderson's method of 

harvest, to manage the, 

to destroy slugs upon 

to cut, time for 
Whiskey cordial, to make 
Whitlow, treatment of 
Whites, in women . 
White-wash, to . 

White swelling 
Wigs, to prepare hair for 
Windows, to keep up 
Wines, British, to make 

gathering the fruit 

pickling 

bruising 

vatting 

vinous fermentation 

flavouring . 

drawing the must 

pressmg the husk 

casking the must 

spirituous fermentation 

racking . 

fining . 

bottling and corking 

apparatus for 

gooseberry, red . 

and white 
white, or champagne 

champagne, British 

gooseberry and currant 

currant, red 

white . 

Dntch 

black 

mixed berries from small gardens 

compound 

other mixed berries 

strawberry . 

raspberry . 

mulberry 

elderbeiTy 

Cyprus, imitation of 

elder-flower, or Frontiniae 

port, imitation of 

wofde, or bilberry 

birch 

blackberry 

spruce . 

juniper berry 

damson . 

cherry , 

morella . 

peach , 

and apricot 

apricot . 

lemon . 

apple, white . 

red 

quince . 

orange . 

and lemon 

inesd, white 

red, or metheglin 
walnut 



124, 



338 

326 

S61 

326 

327 

ib 

ti2S 

ib 

ib 

' ib 

329 

ib 

ib 

330 

337 

S94 

148 

219 

243 

395 

212 

395 

S88 

122 

ib 

ib 

ib 

123 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

124 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

401 

124 

125 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

126 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

127 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

128 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

ib 

129 

ib 

ib 



Wines, American honey • 

cowslip, red . . 

white . . 

mead . . 

cider, white . . 

red . . 

grape, red . • 

white . . 

raisin, equal to sherry . 

another raisin and grape . 

claret, vine leaf « 

from frosted potatoes . 

ginger 

koumiss, tartar . • 

rhnbarb . . 

sage . , 

gilliflower . . 

turnip . . 

rose • , 

barley ,♦ . 

fig, English • 

sycamore • . 

balm . 

scurvy gi-ass . . 

claret, cheap and wholesome 
dry . . 

Wines, British, management of 
to guard against unripe fruit 
to keep and manage . 

to sweeten a sour cask . 
poor, to improve 

to improve when lowering 
flat, to restore . . 

disagreeable taste, to remove 
ill scent of . 

to pass white for charapaigne 
to make it sparkle like do 
foul or ropy, to clear . 

green or harsh, to correct . 
sharp, tart, acid 
sour . 

to fine or clarify 
to sweeten . 

to stop the fermentation 
pricked, to restore 
decanting 
Wine vaults, foreign, to manage 

wines and spirits, cellar of, to fit up 

foreign, process of making 

port, to make 

to manage and improve 

to make, French method 

foreign, to rack 

claret, to manage 
to colour 
foul, to restore . 
and port, to make them rough 

foreign pricked, to recover 

Hermitage and Burgundy, to manage 

Lisbon 

Bucella 

Sherry, to improve 

white . . 

to improve by chalk 

sick, to renovate 

to mellow . 

sour, to restore, German method 

to concentrate, by cold 

white, to fine 

red . 

claret, to fine a hogshead of 

Sherry, to fine 

pale, to fine 

Madeira 

West India, to improve 

Vidonia, to fine 

Malmsey and other 



456 



UNTVEBSAL RECEIPT BOOK. 



Wines, port, to fine • • . 136 

finings, to make and apply . it* 

to force down . . ib 

■white, to convert into red . ib 

red into white . . ib 

new, to preserve against thunder . 137 

to make it settle well . . ib 

casks, match for sweetening . ib 

oyster powder for . . ib 

filtering bag . . . . ib 

to bottle . . . ib 

adulterated, to detect . . ib 

alum in ... ib 

lead and copper in . . ib 
corrosive sublimate and aiitimonj in, to 

detect . . . ib 

oil of, to procure . . 142 

VVoad for dy jing, to prepare . ,91 

Wood, to preserve from insects . 306 

for dyeing, to prepare . . 92 

oil gilding on . . 15 

to polish • • ,31 

varnish, to make , .39 

to render incombustible . .418 

to dye various colours . . 93 

to preserve by charcoal . . 405 

Woods, medicinal decoction of the . 254 

Wool, to fix a mineral yellow on : 84 

to dye, Prussian blue . . 87 

permanent blue . . ib 

to bleach . . .96 

Woollens, undyed, to scour . .98 

Fuller's purifier for . . 101 

to dye, blue . . .84 

yellow . . . ib 

red, crimson, and scarlet . ib 

to full . . .96 

to dye, black . . .85 

brown . . . ib 

Wormwood, oil of, to procure . 149 

Worma . . 208,237,238,411 

white thead worm, or asoarides 208, 237 

round worm . . 208 

tape worm • . . ib 



Worms, tape worm in children 

long round worm • 

male fern . . 

worm-seed • 

powder of tin , . 

oil of turpentine < 

essence of bergamot . 

Ching's lozenges • 

yellow lozenges 

brown lozenges , 

petroleum, a general remedy 
Worts, to boil • . 

to cool . , 

to mix the yeast with the . 

to determine the strength of 

to apportion the yeast and apply it to 
Wounds 

incised 

punctured 

contused 

poisoned 

of the ear, &c. 

of the scalp 

of the throat 

of the chest 

of the belly 

of the joints 
Writing, to take out , 

for the blind . . 

Y. 

Yarn, to scour . . 

Yeast, to mix with worts 

to apportion and apply it to worts 
the fermentation of, to manage 
to preserve , . 

nine substitutes for 
to restore bad 

Yellow, or West India fever 



ZafTre, to prepare 
Zinc ores 

in the humid way 



Z. 



THE END 



